AWWW! Some itty-bitty babbit bearings! Try doing them on the main engine shaft on an aircraft carrier. You'll need a chainfall to lift each half out of the housing, and a BIG capacity hydraulic jack to raise the shaft a few thousands of an inch to rotate the lower half out. Those are the oil deflectors on each end to return oil to the sump. The center ring is called a slinger; it is supposed to dip into the oil reservoir and dispense the oil by squeezing the oil wedge as it turns. There may have been a felt/ wool seal on the work side of the bearing to keep work chips from getting into the housing. Oil needs to be changed and sump cleaned with mineral spirits, and use prussian blue to get a reading on the contact area and use lead strip or plasti-gauge to determine clearances.
Ol white metal bearings thas an old lathe. That’s an oil thrower ring. Being a lathe I would guess it would have had felt seals each end originally & would act as wipers on the thrust faces. The brown staining is the oil breaking down when it gets hot, a common sight with mineral oils. Looks to me when things warm up it’s wiping the crown of the bearing (the shining is high spots & it looks tight on the horns too. I would blue the bearing caps onto the shaft, that’ll clearly show you the high spots. Scrape & bed them in & introduce a .003” to .005” thou shim between the halves to give it some crown clearance & allow for crush. Tighten them down & it should run fine when it warms up. We used to reckon on a thou per inch, ie 3” shaft = .003” crown clearance on bearing. Worth checking the chuck for run out too with a DTI. Hope this helps🙂
Add another .003 to .005 shim, this will ease the Sticking, use a paper shim. outside grooves probably had a wool seal or ring, to keep dirt out while keeping oil in
central ring is splash feed lubricator. yes, it does exactly that, lifts oil. end grooves are flingers and catchers... oil cant get past the groove on the shaft, gets flung off. and then it has to be caught... should drain back to the center. looks like it wants some new oil... maybe all it needs, clean up and decent way/machine/hydraulic oil. the shim is there for when you scrape the bearing. and that bearing looks like it wants a scrape... iunno. its not great. its not terrible. theres literature on scraping lathe bearings... read up.
@@rustyshakleford5230 its why the prussian blue is often called "bearing blue"... was a mandatory servicing procedure in almost every garage up until a few decades ago... pour new bearings then scrape them.
AWWW! Some itty-bitty babbit bearings! Try doing them on the main engine shaft on an aircraft carrier. You'll need a chainfall to lift each half out of the housing, and a BIG capacity hydraulic jack to raise the shaft a few thousands of an inch to rotate the lower half out. Those are the oil deflectors on each end to return oil to the sump. The center ring is called a slinger; it is supposed to dip into the oil reservoir and dispense the oil by squeezing the oil wedge as it turns. There may have been a felt/ wool seal on the work side of the bearing to keep work chips from getting into the housing. Oil needs to be changed and sump cleaned with mineral spirits, and use prussian blue to get a reading on the contact area and use lead strip or plasti-gauge to determine clearances.
That's right, these technic with the ring lifting up the oil from a sump down below was often used on the crankshafts of old aircompressors.
Ol white metal bearings thas an old lathe.
That’s an oil thrower ring.
Being a lathe I would guess it would have had felt seals each end originally & would act as wipers on the thrust faces.
The brown staining is the oil breaking down when it gets hot, a common sight with mineral oils.
Looks to me when things warm up it’s wiping the crown of the bearing (the shining is high spots & it looks tight on the horns too.
I would blue the bearing caps onto the shaft, that’ll clearly show you the high spots. Scrape & bed them in & introduce a .003” to .005” thou shim between the halves to give it some crown clearance & allow for crush. Tighten them down & it should run fine when it warms up.
We used to reckon on a thou per inch, ie 3” shaft = .003” crown clearance on bearing.
Worth checking the chuck for run out too with a DTI.
Hope this helps🙂
This was exactly what I was looking for. I'm gonna scrap the ways and the bearings.
@@rustyshakleford5230 glad to help, I hope your going to scrape them in & not scrap them 😂
Add another .003 to .005 shim, this will ease the Sticking, use a paper shim. outside grooves probably had a wool seal or ring, to keep dirt out while keeping oil in
central ring is splash feed lubricator. yes, it does exactly that, lifts oil.
end grooves are flingers and catchers...
oil cant get past the groove on the shaft, gets flung off.
and then it has to be caught...
should drain back to the center. looks like it wants some new oil... maybe all it needs, clean up and decent way/machine/hydraulic oil.
the shim is there for when you scrape the bearing. and that bearing looks like it wants a scrape... iunno. its not great. its not terrible.
theres literature on scraping lathe bearings... read up.
Didn't know you scraped bearings. I was planning on scraping the ways and I have another 12" lathe that's functional so that may be my next project.
@@rustyshakleford5230 its why the prussian blue is often called "bearing blue"... was a mandatory servicing procedure in almost every garage up until a few decades ago... pour new bearings then scrape them.