I figured out that you cannot say this is for kids as well as everyone else as not comments are allowed when kids are involved ... I had no idea I was thinking my content was able to be watched by anyone and goofed ... should not change anything with the new videos
If you use a piece of vacuum hose on the top of the top of the spark plug to reinstall them, you will have an easier time of it. I actually made a tool from an old spark plug boot shoved onto an old nut driver.
I also have accomplished the Stage 3 with the Catless downpipe. I am starting to notice a slip in fourth or fifth gear. I am currently pulling 25lbs of boost. When the slip initiates its indicative of the tires breaking loose, but not so lucky. I don't know if it's the Limited slip rear end or the Clutch. Usually if it's a clutch, correct me if I'm wrong in saying so, usually you smell a hot kinda brake smell. Not during the slip or when I park the car an investigate. I decided to change the oil in the Differential because of Calendar, not miles on the car reasoning. I drained the Differential and replaced the oil with Redline 75w90ns oil that has the required Additive. The slipping seemed to initially stop, However, on a hard pull, it rears it's ugly head. I am in the process of jacking the car up and installing a Solo Performance Mac shorty exhaust system. Once in the air I'll drain the Diff once again and reservice with Redline once more. Have you had any issues with your Sky yet regarding any slipping?
Not yet but as I tune for power I am starting to see some gremlins like 270 degrees auto trans temp so I am installing a trans cooler to ensure nothing gets damaged due to heat. Should be done in the next couple of weeks. If I was you I would be looking for a Differential Brace that Kappa Haus is building ... Brian Cooper has just sent me mine and it will reinforce the external case of the diff. That is the weak link in the diff and apparently this reinforcement solves the issue.
Tim, thank you for all the great videos. I have found your videos helpful while rebuilding a wrecked Sky. Can you tell me what type of fasteners holds the parking/signal lamps in? I can't find this answer anywhere.
Hi, did the .025" gap help with your misfiring issues? I've been fighting a P0300 for a little while now and ready to lose my mind. LOL Installed new Zz Performance coils and genuine plugs, i still got a P0300 code on all 4. As a last resort i closed mine to .025" and made a new engine ground battery strap. I just reset the computer CEL 🤞🏻
Hello Tim. I was wondering if maybe it would have been more effective to test the new spark plugs with the old coils to nail down your high speed stumble? Seems to me that you would have gotten a more definitive answer as to which component was causing the stumble, the plugs (and associated gap issues) or the coils. As it stands now someone with a similar problem could have just faced a 50.00 repair (plugs) instead of spending 250.00 (coils and plugs).
I agree … initially I ‘assumed’ the coils would need upgrading. This is a bias I had from years of old school drag racing. In the end a tighter gap and OEM verified quality plugs solved the problem. I still have the ZZP coils but I suspect the factory ones would perform well also.
What was the part about the dielectric grease being different from regular dielectric grease? Can you post a link to the recall or whatever it was that gm published saying we need their special formulation. Also if you have a link to where you made the purchase. Thanks
I think any dielectric grease would be fine … I simply bought mine off of eBay ACDelco 19260901 1oz tube but permeated makes a quality product as well www.ebay.com/itm/Silicone-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease-for-Electrical-Connections-Spark-Plug-Boot-/294493791483?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0
This grease can also be used on all weather stripping and rubber parts for the convertible top that slide. Some parts are not made anymore and are getting harder to find
I'm waiting for delivery of my 2008 Redline with 38K miles on it. I'm just curious, given that yours had such low miles on it when you bought it, how did it run when you got it? Did you need to replace the spark plugs? Or was a lot of the work you've done because of the tunes and other mods? Is there anything I should be aware of and check as soon as I get it out on the road? I really appreciate your videos and the knowledge you're sharing.
Everything I did was optional. The only items I would do with low mileage is inspect tires for age and replace if over 10 years and flush the cooling system if it is dark at all. Otherwise standard maintenance … oil, brakes and brake fluid, alignments, and lube top movement points with a silicone lubricant.
If you are referring to the engine cover I prefer to leave it there … smog in California is hard enough to go pass … I don’t want to give any indication something may be modified.
Unfortunately I swapped back to OEM after multiple ZZP coil failures (2 in 2 months of very little driving) … I noticed no difference between the ZZP and the OEM so I am not sure I would recommend the ZZP coils. I will recommend ZZP as a company though as they were a standup company and accepted my return of the coils without any hassle at all. High marks ZZP !!
It appears as though the zz coils being displayed have been superseded by "ZZP High Voltage Coil Packs-LNF/LHU/LE5-Gen 2". Perhaps they upgraded them due to all of the issues or failures you and others were experiencing. I am still getting a P0300 on all 4 even after installing them. I plan on closing my gaps to .025" just to try that. I also made myself new engine to battery to body cables just to eliminate any "grounding" concerns.
Actually best was a 13.3 with a 2.28 60 ft and a MPH of 107.35 although it also ran a traction limited 13.40 with a 2.23 60 Ft time at 105.3 mph . This was with a Dragy device on a section of toll road near here in SoCal. I do plan on finishing tuning and I am certain it will get into the 12’s with a decent set of tires.
Very soon ... I have been frustrated by a high RPM ‘burble’ that is believe I have finally resolved with genuine plugs gapped at 0.028 and fresh ZZP coils
Well there is no more high RPM miss but I was also struggling with Counterfeit spark plugs so I do not know for certain ... but I am not going to remove them.
Glad to see a mechanic use a torque wrench properly. Too many mechanics keep clicking another two or three times.
Hate to see no comments, but I'm glad you turned them back on
I figured out that you cannot say this is for kids as well as everyone else as not comments are allowed when kids are involved ... I had no idea I was thinking my content was able to be watched by anyone and goofed ... should not change anything with the new videos
I picked one up seven months ago only 4000 miles on it. Thank you for going through the whole process. Cheers 🍻
If you use a piece of vacuum hose on the top of the top of the spark plug to reinstall them, you will have an easier time of it. I actually made a tool from an old spark plug boot shoved onto an old nut driver.
Done that many times 😊
I’m having the same issue! Thanks for this upload!
I do hope it helps … it was a head scratcher for sure ! The tighter plug is a significant tool to improve spark blowout.
I love your car, please get an EFR turbo!
If I did NOT live in CA I would do way more !!
I also have accomplished the Stage 3 with the Catless downpipe. I am starting to notice a slip in fourth or fifth gear. I am currently pulling 25lbs of boost. When the slip initiates its indicative of the tires breaking loose, but not so lucky. I don't know if it's the Limited slip rear end or the Clutch. Usually if it's a clutch, correct me if I'm wrong in saying so, usually you smell a hot kinda brake smell. Not during the slip or when I park the car an investigate. I decided to change the oil in the Differential because of Calendar, not miles on the car reasoning. I drained the Differential and replaced the oil with Redline 75w90ns oil that has the required Additive. The slipping seemed to initially stop, However, on a hard pull, it rears it's ugly head. I am in the process of jacking the car up and installing a Solo Performance Mac shorty exhaust system. Once in the air I'll drain the Diff once again and reservice with Redline once more. Have you had any issues with your Sky yet regarding any slipping?
Not yet but as I tune for power I am starting to see some gremlins like 270 degrees auto trans temp so I am installing a trans cooler to ensure nothing gets damaged due to heat. Should be done in the next couple of weeks. If I was you I would be looking for a Differential Brace that Kappa Haus is building ... Brian Cooper has just sent me mine and it will reinforce the external case of the diff. That is the weak link in the diff and apparently this reinforcement solves the issue.
Tim, thank you for all the great videos. I have found your videos helpful while rebuilding a wrecked Sky.
Can you tell me what type of fasteners holds the parking/signal lamps in? I can't find this answer anywhere.
Are you referring to the ones ahead of the wheel ? Or the lower signal / fog lamp assemblies ?
I have the same stage 3 build, I had to go to .025 to get rid of that misfire, it sounds like those coils are helping more than people think.
Well I will see if the burble stays away ... I may tighten the gap further if I need to.
Hi, did the .025" gap help with your misfiring issues? I've been fighting a P0300 for a little while now and ready to lose my mind. LOL
Installed new Zz Performance coils and genuine plugs, i still got a P0300 code on all 4. As a last resort i closed mine to .025" and made a new engine ground battery strap. I just reset the computer CEL 🤞🏻
Did it fix the problem?@@kennethwise7108
Hello Tim. I was wondering if maybe it would have been more effective to test the new spark plugs with the old coils to nail down your high speed stumble? Seems to me that you would have gotten a more definitive answer as to which component was causing the stumble, the plugs (and associated gap issues) or the coils. As it stands now someone with a similar problem could have just faced a 50.00 repair (plugs) instead of spending 250.00 (coils and plugs).
I agree … initially I ‘assumed’ the coils would need upgrading. This is a bias I had from years of old school drag racing. In the end a tighter gap and OEM verified quality plugs solved the problem. I still have the ZZP coils but I suspect the factory ones would perform well also.
What was the part about the dielectric grease being different from regular dielectric grease? Can you post a link to the recall or whatever it was that gm published saying we need their special formulation. Also if you have a link to where you made the purchase. Thanks
I think any dielectric grease would be fine … I simply bought mine off of eBay ACDelco 19260901 1oz tube but permeated makes a quality product as well www.ebay.com/itm/Silicone-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease-for-Electrical-Connections-Spark-Plug-Boot-/294493791483?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0
Just remember it is to be put on the INSIDE of the boot to seal to the plug … outside is not necessary.
This grease can also be used on all weather stripping and rubber parts for the convertible top that slide. Some parts are not made anymore and are getting harder to find
I'm waiting for delivery of my 2008 Redline with 38K miles on it. I'm just curious, given that yours had such low miles on it when you bought it, how did it run when you got it? Did you need to replace the spark plugs? Or was a lot of the work you've done because of the tunes and other mods? Is there anything I should be aware of and check as soon as I get it out on the road? I really appreciate your videos and the knowledge you're sharing.
Everything I did was optional. The only items I would do with low mileage is inspect tires for age and replace if over 10 years and flush the cooling system if it is dark at all. Otherwise standard maintenance … oil, brakes and brake fluid, alignments, and lube top movement points with a silicone lubricant.
Leave that cover off it traps heat.
If you are referring to the engine cover I prefer to leave it there … smog in California is hard enough to go pass … I don’t want to give any indication something may be modified.
Tim how are those zzp coils holding up just wondering
Unfortunately I swapped back to OEM after multiple ZZP coil failures (2 in 2 months of very little driving) … I noticed no difference between the ZZP and the OEM so I am not sure I would recommend the ZZP coils. I will recommend ZZP as a company though as they were a standup company and accepted my return of the coils without any hassle at all. High marks ZZP !!
Thanks for your honesty greatly appreciated 😊
It appears as though the zz coils being displayed have been superseded by "ZZP High Voltage Coil Packs-LNF/LHU/LE5-Gen 2". Perhaps they upgraded them due to all of the issues or failures you and others were experiencing. I am still getting a P0300 on all 4 even after installing them. I plan on closing my gaps to .025" just to try that. I also made myself new engine to battery to body cables just to eliminate any "grounding" concerns.
You said you ran a 13.2? What was the mph and track elevation. 60 ft etc.
Actually best was a 13.3 with a 2.28 60 ft and a MPH of 107.35 although it also ran a traction limited 13.40 with a 2.23 60 Ft time at 105.3 mph . This was with a Dragy device on a section of toll road near here in SoCal. I do plan on finishing tuning and I am certain it will get into the 12’s with a decent set of tires.
I missed the elevation request ... Road elevation was 559 ft but was not a ‘track’
When do you plan on dynoing it?
Very soon ... I have been frustrated by a high RPM ‘burble’ that is believe I have finally resolved with genuine plugs gapped at 0.028 and fresh ZZP coils
Did you reach any conclusion on the new coils? Did they improve performance?
Well there is no more high RPM miss but I was also struggling with Counterfeit spark plugs so I do not know for certain ... but I am not going to remove them.