Need help photographing the Milky Way? Comment below! 👉 And check this guide to master Milky Way photography: www.photopills.com/articles/milky-way-photography-guide
So helpful! I am an amateur for many years but now retired and wanting to learn how to be a better photographer. I am especially fascinated by star and milky way photography and PhotoPills is giving me the tools and knowledge to learn faster. Thank you.
B R I L L I A N T - I love looking at great photos of the stars. I am new to photography and still learning all the settings on my Panasonic GH5 & your app PhotoPills. Thank You for producing this video guide. Cheers from Western Australia 👍🏻
Great video. Love the start to finish approach. And I learned several things that PhotoPills will do that I didn't know about. Thanks so much. Can't wait for the next one!
Thanks so much for this video and for the app. What a great tool. Question: Is the image shown at the end the result of one shot? I've seen a lot lately about shooting with higher ISO to lower the exposure time, then stacking them in Photoshop. I want to make sure to have the correct expectations for what I might get from a one-shot attempt if that's what was presented here.
That's a single exposure. But Antoni Cladera, the Photograph of the team, sometime uses the software Starry Landscape Stacker to stack photos for the sky and reduce noise.
Hi John, the lighthouse lit the foreground. No other light is needed in this case. Otherwise you can use a LED panel to add continuous light from the side for example.
Very good video that gives me a lot of info....one question is when you place the red pin I guess that's the milky way position, you can then move around to get the best composition, I see you can add a black pin, will that be where i plan to stand once decided , thanks
Just got the app, this is amazing guys! Felicitats! 😊 I just have a problem I just cannot find my camara model on the app. Is it because its too old? Sony a58, Is it okay to take a68 instead?
The Black Pin helps you understand topography.. I usually place it on the subject. And on Panel 2 you get the elevation difference between pins and more :)
Great video and powerful app. HUGE question - I have a location I want to shoot with the galaxy, but it is all active farmland with a lot of irrigation ditches, and there are low-lying mists that form that reflect a lot of light pollution on the horizon. Besides having a light pollution filter, what else can I do to get the best results. ALMOST HUGE question: In trying to focus, using a Nikon d850 my stars during an attempt a week ago were soft. But I couldn't tell if that was due to bad focus, or not enough pixels in the back monitor, when magnified to 100%. Does anyone know if the back monitor has enough dots to be able to trust sharp vs. blurry when at 100%? Thank you! Jerry
Hi Jerry! Thanks for your comments. Here you have a video by Ian Norman that explains how to photograph the MW under heavy light pollution conditions: ruclips.net/video/J1Kfr8RG3zM/видео.html Also, yes, to check whether the stars are in focus or not, we use the LCD screen of the camera :)
Thank you PhotoPills. For focus: I went on a test shoot a week ago to get some practice. When I looked at my LCD monitor at 100%, I couldn't tell if the blurring I saw was because of stars being out of focus, or just that the LCD didn't have enough resolution at 100%, so things looked blurry as a result. To confirm, you saying that the LCD is that trustworthy even at 100%? If so, that helps boost confidence a lot. Thanks again!!
Great video, very helpful. Question? When using the spot stars function at a given focal length say 20mm, why does the max exposure time go up with a smaller diameter F stop. Example at 20mm with f 2.8 is 13.11s but f 1.8 is 11.35s to capture sharp stars?
The smaller the aperture, the larger appear the stars in the photo... so they can move a longer distance without losing the round shape. The wider the aperture, the smaller the stars, so less time is needed to lose the round shape.... and see a trail.
Hello @photopills, question. When shooting the Milky Way, is there a specific elevation needed? Do I have to climb to a high point and any point would work?
Hi Rafael, Can you make this video available for download, where I dont have to pay a subscription to You tube, its absolutely brilliant and just what I need to refer to on my ipad when out planning milky way shots, I know there is one on the website but it is quite old now and not as good as this one...how about it..????
Brilliant! To thin in the years I have had Photo Pills on my phone, all I've used it for is DOF! Quick question... I almost always produce black and white images, and I have seen some fabulous B&W milky way shots. Do you have any tips on what I should do differently (if anything) to get a good colour photo as a basis for mono conversion? Thanks.
I am new to PhotoPills. I tried the AR on the hyperfocal table and the "lines" on the floor were off by three ft. (1 m). The distance was 12'4" on the app but the actual distance when I measured to the spot was always 9'.
Hi! Welcome to the tribe! Could you go to My Stuff>Settings and check the Phone height usage. it should be around 1.35-1.40m. If the issue persists, please, send us and email via support@photopills.com. Thank you!
I have a question about hyperfocal distance. Just learning about it and I understand the concept, but how do you use it practically for long focal lengths, for example when shooting a large moon shot? Distance is in the 5000 ft range for my 420mm. I used PhotoPills for my first moonshot and just focused on the moon as it was coming up, but if I can get better focus on the subject, that would be nice.
Hi Eric, you need to focus at something that's further away than 5000ft. And then check that you're subject is also sharp. If you can't focus at a such a larger distance, then focus on your subject. It's always much better to have the subject tack sharp and the moon a bit out of focus.. than the other way around. In this video (10:48minute) I'm talking about focusing in Moon Photography and how you can use PhotoPills to work out the numbers: ruclips.net/video/jeMRiWZBEAc/видео.html
Great Video. I have the Sony a6000 with FE 28 mm F2 objective. I also use the Sony wide angle lens which gives me a focal length of 21mm. Entering the data in the PhotoPills app give me NPF Rule of 10 seconds. In the video, it is recommended to have around 15 seconds. Do you think it is possible to shoot good photos of the milky way with this?
Yes, of course. You can take a photo of 10s and a photo of 15s and compare the results. You can event take a longer exposure time if you want. Then decide if the stars are spots for you or not. Some people want them really sharp, but other prefer to have a better exposure and they don't ming to have really short streaks.
Hi, I live near a lighthouse I want to include in the photo. I’m worried the light from it will overwhelm the photo. I see in your photo it looks great. Suggestions? Thank you!
Sometimes I have a problem where the night ar will change position is there any advice for this the other day I used it to find Polaris and set my star tracker but then after set up and starting to take pictures I rechecked and night at was showing Polaris in a different place? It doesn't always happen normally it is fine but how do you recalibrate if the sun and moon are both not visible?
When the Sun and Moon are not visible, it's not possible to calibrate the AR views at the moment. Maybe this video helps you: ruclips.net/video/Y4WBOJeKJ-0/видео.html
The Milky Way is one thing. I can usually capture that pretty well. But I’ve tried and failed several times when incorporating a lighthouse into the frame. I don’t have that formula figured out.
where is the plan to import it ,bicause i want very much to shoot the milky way, but its hard bicause im a kid and i dont understand very good english.Btw is it possible to shoot it from Bulgaria?
![Jack Harlow - Hello Miss Johnson [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Q86_nlRoIGw/mqdefault.jpg)
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Need help photographing the Milky Way? Comment below!
👉 And check this guide to master Milky Way photography:
www.photopills.com/articles/milky-way-photography-guide
Excellent presentation. Thanks. Once we are able to leave the home!! I will be off to the coast in South Australia to practice . Cheers.
@@pauldpauldoh01 Practice, practice!
I watched part one and part two, is part three available yet?
fantastic tutorial! Thanks a lot!
Thank you Mercede!
So helpful! I am an amateur for many years but now retired and wanting to learn how to be a better photographer. I am especially fascinated by star and milky way photography and PhotoPills is giving me the tools and knowledge to learn faster. Thank you.
Thanks so much Darrel!
Thank you for your awesome clear instructions.
Thank you Margaret!
Perfect like always - go on like that, love it!
Thank you Mark!
Great video! Very, very helpful! Many thanks.
Thank you Daniel!
Love the tutorial that ended with a nice celebration
Thanks so much!
I’m so excited to have found your app and your fantastic RUclips channel. Thank you for all your excellent work! Cheers!
Thanks so much!!
B R I L L I A N T - I love looking at great photos of the stars. I am new to photography and still learning all the settings on my Panasonic GH5 & your app PhotoPills. Thank You for producing this video guide. Cheers from Western Australia 👍🏻
Thanks so much!! Cheers from Spain 😀
Great vlog Raphael
Thank you Carl!
Awesome stuff! Thank you.
Great video. Love the start to finish approach. And I learned several things that PhotoPills will do that I didn't know about. Thanks so much. Can't wait for the next one!
Awesome! Thanks Terry!
Loud and clear thank you bro
Thank you for sharing!
Thanks!
Thanks so much for this video and for the app. What a great tool.
Question: Is the image shown at the end the result of one shot? I've seen a lot lately about shooting with higher ISO to lower the exposure time, then stacking them in Photoshop. I want to make sure to have the correct expectations for what I might get from a one-shot attempt if that's what was presented here.
That's a single exposure. But Antoni Cladera, the Photograph of the team, sometime uses the software Starry Landscape Stacker to stack photos for the sky and reduce noise.
These are great, thanks for sharing. If you don’t mind, what kind of light did he use for the foreground in that shot?
Hi John, the lighthouse lit the foreground. No other light is needed in this case. Otherwise you can use a LED panel to add continuous light from the side for example.
Very helpful! I love this app. Thank you!
Thank you!
Very good video that gives me a lot of info....one question is when you place the red pin I guess that's the milky way position, you can then move around to get the best composition, I see you can add a black pin, will that be where i plan to stand once decided , thanks
Hi Brian! The Red Pin is the shooting spot. The position of the MW is represented relative to the Red Pin. I use the black pin on my subject :)
@@PhotoPills perfect thank you so much 😊
Just got the app, this is amazing guys! Felicitats! 😊 I just have a problem I just cannot find my camara model on the app. Is it because its too old? Sony a58, Is it okay to take a68 instead?
Thanks so much for joining the tribe! the Sony a58 is in the PhotoPills database. In the camera search type A58 and you'll see it listed :)
Great video, yes this is a good idea for star tracker video, thanks.
Thanks!
Nice tutorial, the red pin is the location of camera going to be placed, what is the black pin referring to.
The Black Pin helps you understand topography.. I usually place it on the subject. And on Panel 2 you get the elevation difference between pins and more :)
Great video and powerful app.
HUGE question - I have a location I want to shoot with the galaxy, but it is all active farmland with a lot of irrigation ditches, and there are low-lying mists that form that reflect a lot of light pollution on the horizon. Besides having a light pollution filter, what else can I do to get the best results.
ALMOST HUGE question: In trying to focus, using a Nikon d850 my stars during an attempt a week ago were soft. But I couldn't tell if that was due to bad focus, or not enough pixels in the back monitor, when magnified to 100%. Does anyone know if the back monitor has enough dots to be able to trust sharp vs. blurry when at 100%?
Thank you!
Jerry
Hi Jerry! Thanks for your comments. Here you have a video by Ian Norman that explains how to photograph the MW under heavy light pollution conditions: ruclips.net/video/J1Kfr8RG3zM/видео.html
Also, yes, to check whether the stars are in focus or not, we use the LCD screen of the camera :)
Thank you PhotoPills.
For focus: I went on a test shoot a week ago to get some practice. When I looked at my LCD monitor at 100%, I couldn't tell if the blurring I saw was because of stars being out of focus, or just that the LCD didn't have enough resolution at 100%, so things looked blurry as a result. To confirm, you saying that the LCD is that trustworthy even at 100%? If so, that helps boost confidence a lot.
Thanks again!!
I hope i will have a celebration today Rafael
Cheers
:)
Great video, very helpful. Question? When using the spot stars function at a given focal length say 20mm, why does the max exposure time go up with a smaller diameter F stop. Example at 20mm with f 2.8 is 13.11s but f 1.8 is 11.35s to capture sharp stars?
The smaller the aperture, the larger appear the stars in the photo... so they can move a longer distance without losing the round shape. The wider the aperture, the smaller the stars, so less time is needed to lose the round shape.... and see a trail.
Dude, I want to be your friend too! You're the best. Thank you :)
Thanks!
Really excellent video - thank you so much! :-)
Hello @photopills, question. When shooting the Milky Way, is there a specific elevation needed? Do I have to climb to a high point and any point would work?
Hi Antonio, no, just look for a dark location and check with PhotoPills if the Galactic Center will be visible or not
PhotoPills thanks
Hi Rafael, Can you make this video available for download, where I dont have to pay a subscription to You tube, its absolutely brilliant and just what I need to refer to on my ipad when out planning milky way shots, I know there is one on the website but it is quite old now and not as good as this one...how about it..????
Hi John! I think youtube doesn't give us the option to make the downloadable...
@@PhotoPills ok, so can you make it downloadable on your site ?
Hello PhotoPills -
Does the iOS version of the app have a night-vision (all red) option? If so, I can't seem to find it.
Thank you!
Nope, but we'd love to do it in the future :)
Brilliant! To thin in the years I have had Photo Pills on my phone, all I've used it for is DOF! Quick question... I almost always produce black and white images, and I have seen some fabulous B&W milky way shots. Do you have any tips on what I should do differently (if anything) to get a good colour photo as a basis for mono conversion? Thanks.
Hi John! B&W Milky Way photos are amazing. You don't have to do anything different. Give it a try and adjust!
Thanks for this. I don't see the link to your plan. I wanted to follow along.
You have it in the description of the video 😜
I am new to PhotoPills. I tried the AR on the hyperfocal table and the "lines" on the floor were off by three ft. (1 m). The distance was 12'4" on the app but the actual distance when I measured to the spot was always 9'.
Hi! Welcome to the tribe! Could you go to My Stuff>Settings and check the Phone height usage. it should be around 1.35-1.40m. If the issue persists, please, send us and email via support@photopills.com. Thank you!
漂亮，多多益善 Beautiful, the more the better
Thanks!
I have a question about hyperfocal distance. Just learning about it and I understand the concept, but how do you use it practically for long focal lengths, for example when shooting a large moon shot? Distance is in the 5000 ft range for my 420mm. I used PhotoPills for my first moonshot and just focused on the moon as it was coming up, but if I can get better focus on the subject, that would be nice.
Hi Eric, you need to focus at something that's further away than 5000ft. And then check that you're subject is also sharp. If you can't focus at a such a larger distance, then focus on your subject. It's always much better to have the subject tack sharp and the moon a bit out of focus.. than the other way around. In this video (10:48minute) I'm talking about focusing in Moon Photography and how you can use PhotoPills to work out the numbers: ruclips.net/video/jeMRiWZBEAc/видео.html
Breakfast is also the best moment for me! ...Capito? :D
We agree then ;)
Does the hyperfocal table take crop factor into account?
Yes! When you set your camera, PhotoPills takes into account its crop factor. So set the real focal length ;)
Heyy.....can u please make a video on how to capture milky way on a smartphone
Hi Aman! I'll put it on the list :)
@@PhotoPills thank u so much🤞🏻😍
Great Video. I have the Sony a6000 with FE 28 mm F2 objective. I also use the Sony wide angle lens which gives me a focal length of 21mm. Entering the data in the PhotoPills app give me NPF Rule of 10 seconds. In the video, it is recommended to have around 15 seconds. Do you think it is possible to shoot good photos of the milky way with this?
Yes, of course. You can take a photo of 10s and a photo of 15s and compare the results. You can event take a longer exposure time if you want. Then decide if the stars are spots for you or not. Some people want them really sharp, but other prefer to have a better exposure and they don't ming to have really short streaks.
Hi, I live near a lighthouse I want to include in the photo. I’m worried the light from it will overwhelm the photo. I see in your photo it looks great. Suggestions? Thank you!
What we do is to cover the lens when a light beam is going to hit the lens.
Sometimes I have a problem where the night ar will change position is there any advice for this the other day I used it to find Polaris and set my star tracker but then after set up and starting to take pictures I rechecked and night at was showing Polaris in a different place? It doesn't always happen normally it is fine but how do you recalibrate if the sun and moon are both not visible?
When the Sun and Moon are not visible, it's not possible to calibrate the AR views at the moment. Maybe this video helps you: ruclips.net/video/Y4WBOJeKJ-0/видео.html
14:16 One of the most important and ignored parts in my opinion
Thanks for the feedback!
When will PhotoPills T-shirts be available?
The have been always available at photopills.com/shop :)
The Milky Way is one thing. I can usually capture that pretty well. But I’ve tried and failed several times when incorporating a lighthouse into the frame. I don’t have that formula figured out.
where is the plan to import it ,bicause i want very much to shoot the milky way, but its hard bicause im a kid and i dont understand very good english.Btw is it possible to shoot it from Bulgaria?
Yes! this video will help you learn how to plan the Milky Way: ruclips.net/video/tKRwyR1Rxx4/видео.html
do you have a french version of the application?
Yes PhotoPills is in French. If you set your Phone to French, then PhotoPills will be in French. Thanks
@@PhotoPills thank's
How to set the mobile setting if there is House LED near my milky way? The milky way is in arc position
Im using this app but this app couldn't load my location
What should i do?