@@TokyoOffroad , how much did balancing the wheels help on the road? Does it only help on pavement, or is it smoother on gravel, too? Also what size sprockets do you have?
Aoki Gahara - Yes, there will always be a gap on the right side (left side if you’re standing in front of the bike. There should be no gap on the left side (right side if standing in front) as the axle and spacer are pulled in tight to the fork lug when you initially tighten the axle end bolt.
I reckon the 35 haters of this straight forward easy to follow vid send their bikes to mechanics to get this done. I say thanks for this no rope to hang KTM front axle vid kind Sir.
No, there should be no gap on the left. When tightening the end axle screw on the left side any gap between the wheel spacer and fork lug will be removed.
Have a look at this video. The stock axle end plug is glued in, so applying some heat and knocking it out is the best way. Clean up the axle and glue in the new puller with some epoxy: ruclips.net/video/IemGQQrCTIs/видео.html
Thank you for this informative video. I have a 17 450 excf that I've been practicing popping slow wheelies an yesterday I noticed a strange noise from front disk as I was rolling home that wasn't there before. I did the steps you did in the video an now the noise is gone. I must have knocked something out of line by doing hundreds of clutch up first gear wheelies then hitting rear brake to bring her down. Beautiful bike by the way. I don't have all the mods you do but mine is pretty enough I don't want to ride it in the dirt...Lol. Sad. Thanks again an cheers.
Any ideas why my disc is is scraping metal of my brake calliper, which is causing my wheel to get jammed and have a lot of resistance when trying to push the bike and spin the wheel?
Are the pads scrapping only one spot of the disc? If so your disc is bent, or warped. Or if it locks up after some use it indicates that you don't have enough free travel (>=3mm) and you can use the screw in the front brake lever to adjust.
Hi, do you have any video on how to install the front disc guard? Just got one for my KTM 2020 350 xcf-w but not sure how to install it... How to remove the spacers as the instructions recommended... Or if I just should install it direct to the original spacer. Thanks in advancence
I’m not sure which front disc guard you purchased, but typically they are supplied with a spacer which replaces the left hand side spacer. To remove the left hand side wheel spacer use a piece of rod from the right side and gently tap out the spacer using a hammer. It should come out easily. The new disc guard should then push in to the wheel using your hand, or light tapping with a hammer.
Great video thanks. Just installed some talons off an older model onto my 2020. Does it matter if the axle thread doesn't come all the way flush with the fork leg? Mine is about 5mm short, I'm just wondering if the spacers are wrong.
Are you talking about the front axle? If so there is no external thread on the axle. On the right side (right if sitting on the bike) there should be a gap between the spacer and fork leg which is approximately 4mm on my bike. This is normal. There is a shoulder on the axle which holds the spacer in place.
I use Tohnichi torque wrenches. Tohnichi is a Japanese torque wrench manufacturer and although not cheap should last a lifetime if treated with care. To cover all the fasteners on the a KTM you could use two torque wrenches (5~25Nm & 30~140Nm), or three (2~10Nm, 10~50Nm, 40~200Nm). I'll add some links to the description.
@@TokyoOffroad That's' great a great opinion of torque wrenches. I also use Snap On. They are expensive but dead on. I have mine calibrated by Snap On each year for free. Great videos, your knowledge is just so amazing.
Yes, wider and taller than the stock tire. It's the "Fatty" size which is 90/100-21. Currently I use the Shinko 216MX Cheater (soft compound) in this size and have found it to be an excellent tire for the off-road riding I do: ruclips.net/video/Jpp26GxcLds/видео.html
Yes, a small amount of brake pad drag is common. If you have a lot of drag then the it may be that you don't have enough free travel adjustment (you should be able to move the front brake lever 3mm or more before the pads start to grip the disk). If you have less than 3mm of free travel then adjust the front brake (see manual). Or if the drag only occurs in one area of the rotation it may be that your brake disk is warped, or bent.
@@TokyoOffroad it sounds like it could be ever so slightly warped because It isnt a steady sound more specified in different spot but nothing visible to the eye it's a brand new bike so i dont know how it could be bent
@@brodyrichard263 - I recommend that you discuss it with your dealer. A brand new brake rotor should not be noticeably warped. But I'm guessing it's very slight and probably won't make any difference.
@@TokyoOffroad I just uploaded a 12 second clip to my channel give it a few minutes it's a video of the noise see if you can take a look please just comment on that video of you see anything
@@BoSeider_23 - Once spread apart the pads should not be pushed back together unless the brake lever is pulled in. Yes, the pads will move a little, but it should be relatively easy to insert the wheel brake disk once they have been spread, You can use your finger to hold the pads in place while you insert the disk.
@@BoSeider_23 - I'm not sure what you mean about "couldn't even put the tire in". If you spread the pads apart a little the brake disk should easily fit between the pads.
Shinko 216MX Fatty (90/100-21). My front tire of choice now is the Cheater version of the same tire- Shinko 216MX Cheater 90/100-21. The Cheater version has a softer compound, grips well in most off-road conditions and side knobs don't chunk like the regular version. I run it with a heavy tube at 11psi. ruclips.net/video/Jpp26GxcLds/видео.html
Yes, you could do it that way too. It wouldn't make any difference. The left side is held in place by the axle end bolt anyway. The key is pumping the forks while the right side pinch bolts are loose, so the right fork floats on the axle and aligns correctly.
interesting that you didn't spin the wheel and pump the brakes and pump the fork to parallel the tubes before torquing. Why is that? Also, 17 SX manual says to torque the nut and then pinch bolts... always good to see different methods, excellent channel.
I torqued the axle bolt before torquing the left hand axle pinch bolts. You need to stop the axle rotating while you torque the axle nut, that's why I first tighten one of the right hand pinch bolts (later loosened when aligning the fork tubes). Spinning the wheel and pumping the brake before torquing may be of benefit on some bikes, but on KTM off-road bikes this is an unnecessary step IMO as the axle end bolt will pull the axle hard up against the left hand fork lower. I.e. The front disk brake position is determined by the the left hand wheel spacer size and as long as you torque the axle end bolt before torquing the left hand pinch bolts the disk will be aligned correctly.
My axle doesn't slide in easy. I use a rubber mallet to get it in and sometimes I really have to hit it hard before it goes in. Hope I didn't bend a fork or something.
Nube Toob Does your axle slide out easily when you're taking it out? Or do you need to hammer it out? It's unlikely that anything is bent, unless you hit something large (a car, wall, large rock) at speed. I've ridden for years off-road and never bent my forks- they're incredibly tough. When installing your axle make sure that it's clean and also the the axle holder internal surfaces are clean too. You shouldn't need to hammer it in, or out.
+Nube Toob What bike do you have? Something must be damaged. To narrow down the issue try inserting the large end of the axle into the right side axle holder to check for fit. Then try the narrow end of the axle into the brake side axle holder. Both sides (large and smaller) should slide freely in the axle holders when the pinch bolts are loose. If one side is tight inspect for damage. One issue with the axle holder not moving freely on the axle is that it will be difficult to align the fork legs correctly (like I show in the video), so it's a good idea to fix this.
Tokyo Offroad I have a wr250r. And thanks for the info. I'll inspect the axle and forks. Maybe I mushroomed the end of the axle and that's why it's tight. Could file it down. Anyway thanks!
Stupid question...on axle pull side, there will be a little gap between fork tube and spacer on wheel. So there will be a little play then ? This is driving me crazy because I have a tiny bit of play. I don't see how you wouldnt if the fork tube moves away from it when aligning it using brake method.
There shouldn't be any play. The axle has a step in it. The reason you tighten the end bolt first is to remove the play. To do this the left side pinch bolts need to be loose, or the end bolt will not pull the axle through the lower lug and play will not be removed. If you follow the steps in the video you should not have any issues.
The only difference is that the manual states to tighten both sides pinch bolts after compressing the forks. I prefer the method shown in the video (tighten the left side pinch bolts before fork compression).
Good vid until min 3:30. Figure out the distance between your slider fork tubes and face off a piece of aluminminiminiminium, (my bloke joke, hehe), round stock, (I used 1" diameter aluminum round stock to 5.661" long for my 2019 YZ250 2-stroke). With your last clamps still lose, put that measured piece of round stock between the fork legs, (through a hole in your brake disk), and you will see that these methods are not really great with out a tool. Just hold the rod straight between the legs, and tap the end of the fork, (the lose end, of course), until, the rod is tight and straight. Tighten the clamps, carefully remove the rod, and you are parallel within + or - .001". If you don't use a tool, you will most likely be wearing out your fork bushings faster than you should be. It also puts cycles of strees on the upper tubes every time your suspension compresses on bumps. This method would work well though, if you loosened the upper triple clamps, unscrewed the top caps, removed the handle bars and fully compressed your suspension before you tighten the clamps, but if you measure the rod length you need, you can have a machine shop face a piece of stock off for you in about 10 minutes. There are a lot of forks wearing out too fast out there. Not mine. :)
If it's only one screw holding a part then once is fine. If there are multiple screws holding the same part, especially a clamp (axle clamp, fork triple clamps) it's very important to go to and fro as I show in the video so that all screws are at the same torque. On the axle pinch screws if you only torque once the first screw torqued will be very loose after the second screw is torqued.
Moses vargas - Goldentyre GT216AA Fatty (90/100-21). Shinko recently released the 216MX which I will be using from now on as it's very similar and a bit cheaper. ruclips.net/video/LHCVoNrKoVk/видео.html
@@TokyoOffroad Still using the Shinko? I tried it once it doesn't last long until the side knobs start tearing off. That is a problem with Tubliss as the tire won't hold air after that. It's not just me many other NW riders have had the same issue. GT 216 since then.
Enduro K39 PNW - No, I use the Shinko 546 Fatty (90/100-21) now. No side knob tearing, wear is low and grips well. I use mine with a heavy tube at 11psi. Worth trying IMO
Nm is used in every country other than the US. I'm located in Japan and lbf ft torque wrenches are not widely available. KTM torque specs in the manual are in Nm, with lbf ft shown in brackets.
Fail? In practice this really isn't a problem at all. Using a block of wood, or the wall isn't perfect as it's easy to push the front wheel out of alignment while you're compressing the forks. My recommendation is the use the front brake.
@@TokyoOffroad The axel for this bike should be tightened First making sure the axel is bottom out and against the brake side fork then the non-brake should be aligned and the best way to do this is using the Motion Pro fork alignment tool and tighten the pinch bolts. This tool will do 3 things, perfectly aline the forks, make the forks feel the same all the time, and make your fork seals last twice as long. Once you use this tool you will never want to install your front wheel without it.
@@fuellerr This video is about installing the front wheel. I agree that fork alignment in the triple clamps is very important, but I have a separate video which covers that. No, I don't use the Motion Pro tool to perform the alignment, I let the forks self align by loosening the lower triple clamp pinch bolts and right side axle pinch bolts and then pushing down on the forks with the front brake applied to align them. This is quick and easy to do. My method for installing the front wheel is the same as you listed, but I push down on the forks with the front brake applied to align the right fork lug on the axle instead of using a tool. This is a very common technique and works well. It's also the method detailed in the KTM service and user manuals.
I always refer to this video for the order and torque specs when I do the front wheel.
Awesome concise video with enough detail.
Pleased to hear that you found it useful
I think the dog ought to have his own channel (love him)
You are very professional and the old dog is amazing
Always forget which side to tighten first. Use this video a lot. Thank you.
Pleased that you find the video helpful...
If you train the Setter to hold the axel while you tighten the axle bolt you dont need to tighten the pinch bolt first :-)
Lovely dog!
Yes torque wrench is your friend 😊👍
Is this bike titled and plated? Noticed the balanced wheels.
Yes, titled and plated
@@TokyoOffroad , how much did balancing the wheels help on the road? Does it only help on pavement, or is it smoother on gravel, too? Also what size sprockets do you have?
Hello, if done by the book/video, is it normal to have a gap between the right spacer and fork leg? Thanks.
Aoki Gahara - Yes, there will always be a gap on the right side (left side if you’re standing in front of the bike. There should be no gap on the left side (right side if standing in front) as the axle and spacer are pulled in tight to the fork lug when you initially tighten the axle end bolt.
Any plans to do a video on rear wheel install and sprocket change? Thanks, keep up the good work 👍
Love your videos! From the USA :-)
I reckon the 35 haters of this straight forward easy to follow vid send their bikes to mechanics to get this done. I say thanks for this no rope to hang KTM front axle vid kind Sir.
Nathan Dunn - Pleased you found the video useful...
No kidding. I cant understand why anyone would thumbs down. Helpful video. Thx.
Is there supposed to be a gap between the fork and the wheel spacer on the left side where I can see the axle?
No, there should be no gap on the left. When tightening the end axle screw on the left side any gap between the wheel spacer and fork lug will be removed.
Front axle nut..35 Newton meters = 26 ft pounds = 312 inch pounds USA
Pinch bolt........15 Newton meters = 11 ft pounds = 133 inch pounds Torque
How did you attach the orange release. I just got mine and I have no idea how. Thanks
Have a look at this video. The stock axle end plug is glued in, so applying some heat and knocking it out is the best way. Clean up the axle and glue in the new puller with some epoxy: ruclips.net/video/IemGQQrCTIs/видео.html
Wow that was exactly what I was looking for. Thanks a lot!! Only I made mistakes buying 22mm I need 24mm. I have KTM exc-f 350 2023
Another awesome video fairplay…..
Thank you for this informative video. I have a 17 450 excf that I've been practicing popping slow wheelies an yesterday I noticed a strange noise from front disk as I was rolling home that wasn't there before. I did the steps you did in the video an now the noise is gone. I must have knocked something out of line by doing hundreds of clutch up first gear wheelies then hitting rear brake to bring her down. Beautiful bike by the way. I don't have all the mods you do but mine is pretty enough I don't want to ride it in the dirt...Lol. Sad. Thanks again an cheers.
em Burgess, that would be "and yesterday" , "and now" & "and cheers". Hope your clutch isn't fried by now, BTW.
@@captainamerica9353 wet clutches dont fry so easily
@@captainamerica9353the chances he has a wet clutch an who gives a fuck 😂
Any ideas why my disc is is scraping metal of my brake calliper, which is causing my wheel to get jammed and have a lot of resistance when trying to push the bike and spin the wheel?
Are the pads scrapping only one spot of the disc? If so your disc is bent, or warped. Or if it locks up after some use it indicates that you don't have enough free travel (>=3mm) and you can use the screw in the front brake lever to adjust.
Hi, do you have any video on how to install the front disc guard? Just got one for my KTM 2020 350 xcf-w but not sure how to install it... How to remove the spacers as the instructions recommended... Or if I just should install it direct to the original spacer. Thanks in advancence
I’m not sure which front disc guard you purchased, but typically they are supplied with a spacer which replaces the left hand side spacer. To remove the left hand side wheel spacer use a piece of rod from the right side and gently tap out the spacer using a hammer. It should come out easily. The new disc guard should then push in to the wheel using your hand, or light tapping with a hammer.
Tokyo Offroad thanks for your prompt response. I bought the Cycra Universal Disc Cover with the Disc Cover Mount - 1CYC-1097-08
Is installing the rear axle the same?
Great and easy to follow video. Question. Can't seem to find a torch wrench that goes below 20Nm to 15Nm. What make is it ? 😃👍🍺
Great video thanks. Just installed some talons off an older model onto my 2020. Does it matter if the axle thread doesn't come all the way flush with the fork leg? Mine is about 5mm short, I'm just wondering if the spacers are wrong.
Are you talking about the front axle? If so there is no external thread on the axle. On the right side (right if sitting on the bike) there should be a gap between the spacer and fork leg which is approximately 4mm on my bike. This is normal. There is a shoulder on the axle which holds the spacer in place.
install the front axle handle makes the job 100% easier
FHD Your videos are excellent, congratulations. One question what the front tire size do you use? Thanks.
Leandro Fonseca - Thanks! The front tire size I use is 90/100-21 (Golden Tyre GT216AA Fatty)
When I did mine I felt like my breaks were more stiff when I spun the wheel is that normal?
"brakes".
Hey man hello? Could do a video How To Bleed Air Out Of Your Forks. The wheels must be raised or not?
Good idea, I'll make a video...
thanks for your useful videos! please, suggest a good torque wrench with nm scale for most KTM bolt connections
I use Tohnichi torque wrenches. Tohnichi is a Japanese torque wrench manufacturer and although not cheap should last a lifetime if treated with care. To cover all the fasteners on the a KTM you could use two torque wrenches (5~25Nm & 30~140Nm), or three (2~10Nm, 10~50Nm, 40~200Nm). I'll add some links to the description.
@@TokyoOffroad That's' great a great opinion of torque wrenches. I also use Snap On. They are expensive but dead on. I have mine calibrated by Snap On each year for free. Great videos, your knowledge is just so amazing.
I was trying to find a 450cc with pit bike wheels
Great video! Just installed the same Acerbis brake guard, but white one on my XC!
Great video! How many Nm for the rear wheel?
80Nm
Is it just camera angles or whatever or is that a particularly beefy front tire? Looks way more robust than stock??
Yes, wider and taller than the stock tire. It's the "Fatty" size which is 90/100-21. Currently I use the Shinko 216MX Cheater (soft compound) in this size and have found it to be an excellent tire for the off-road riding I do: ruclips.net/video/Jpp26GxcLds/видео.html
If I spin my fromt wheel I can hear like a sandy noise from my front dish it's a brand new bike is that mormal?
Yes, a small amount of brake pad drag is common. If you have a lot of drag then the it may be that you don't have enough free travel adjustment (you should be able to move the front brake lever 3mm or more before the pads start to grip the disk). If you have less than 3mm of free travel then adjust the front brake (see manual). Or if the drag only occurs in one area of the rotation it may be that your brake disk is warped, or bent.
@@TokyoOffroad it sounds like it could be ever so slightly warped because It isnt a steady sound more specified in different spot but nothing visible to the eye it's a brand new bike so i dont know how it could be bent
@@brodyrichard263 - I recommend that you discuss it with your dealer. A brand new brake rotor should not be noticeably warped. But I'm guessing it's very slight and probably won't make any difference.
@@TokyoOffroad I just uploaded a 12 second clip to my channel give it a few minutes it's a video of the noise see if you can take a look please just comment on that video of you see anything
What do I do if if my brake pads don’t stay spread apart anyone got any tips??
You can use a clean large flat bladed screwdriver to spread the pads apart a little to allow easier installation.
@@TokyoOffroad I tried using the flathead it worked to spread it, it just wouldn’t stay put
@@BoSeider_23 - Once spread apart the pads should not be pushed back together unless the brake lever is pulled in. Yes, the pads will move a little, but it should be relatively easy to insert the wheel brake disk once they have been spread, You can use your finger to hold the pads in place while you insert the disk.
@@TokyoOffroadI tried that it was so loose that I couldn’t even put the tire in I tried everything it didn’t work?
@@BoSeider_23 - I'm not sure what you mean about "couldn't even put the tire in". If you spread the pads apart a little the brake disk should easily fit between the pads.
what tire is on your front wheel?
Shinko 216MX Fatty (90/100-21). My front tire of choice now is the Cheater version of the same tire- Shinko 216MX Cheater 90/100-21. The Cheater version has a softer compound, grips well in most off-road conditions and side knobs don't chunk like the regular version. I run it with a heavy tube at 11psi. ruclips.net/video/Jpp26GxcLds/видео.html
I like your bike, but love your Dog. My manual says to compress the forks before you torque either side of the pinch bolts?
Yes, you could do it that way too. It wouldn't make any difference. The left side is held in place by the axle end bolt anyway. The key is pumping the forks while the right side pinch bolts are loose, so the right fork floats on the axle and aligns correctly.
another great video, keep it going.
Great video. What kind of lift do you have?
It's a KTM lift stand, purchased about 6 years ago.
interesting that you didn't spin the wheel and pump the brakes and pump the fork to parallel the tubes before torquing. Why is that? Also, 17 SX manual says to torque the nut and then pinch bolts... always good to see different methods, excellent channel.
I torqued the axle bolt before torquing the left hand axle pinch bolts. You need to stop the axle rotating while you torque the axle nut, that's why I first tighten one of the right hand pinch bolts (later loosened when aligning the fork tubes). Spinning the wheel and pumping the brake before torquing may be of benefit on some bikes, but on KTM off-road bikes this is an unnecessary step IMO as the axle end bolt will pull the axle hard up against the left hand fork lower. I.e. The front disk brake position is determined by the the left hand wheel spacer size and as long as you torque the axle end bolt before torquing the left hand pinch bolts the disk will be aligned correctly.
Tokyo Offroad yep, good stuff and really value different strokes to get the same job done. Good stuff.
I understand my KTM front wheel installation so much more after this comment. Thank you.
My axle doesn't slide in easy. I use a rubber mallet to get it in and sometimes I really have to hit it hard before it goes in.
Hope I didn't bend a fork or something.
Nube Toob Does your axle slide out easily when you're taking it out? Or do you need to hammer it out? It's unlikely that anything is bent, unless you hit something large (a car, wall, large rock) at speed. I've ridden for years off-road and never bent my forks- they're incredibly tough. When installing your axle make sure that it's clean and also the the axle holder internal surfaces are clean too. You shouldn't need to hammer it in, or out.
Tokyo Offroad Yeah I have to hammer it all the way out. I usually use a socket small enough to fit inside and hammer away.
+Nube Toob What bike do you have? Something must be damaged. To narrow down the issue try inserting the large end of the axle into the right side axle holder to check for fit. Then try the narrow end of the axle into the brake side axle holder. Both sides (large and smaller) should slide freely in the axle holders when the pinch bolts are loose. If one side is tight inspect for damage. One issue with the axle holder not moving freely on the axle is that it will be difficult to align the fork legs correctly (like I show in the video), so it's a good idea to fix this.
Tokyo Offroad I have a wr250r. And thanks for the info. I'll inspect the axle and forks. Maybe I mushroomed the end of the axle and that's why it's tight. Could file it down. Anyway thanks!
Hi again . Ignore my last, just seen it in your info 🙄
Spot on video bud
The dogs like I remember when u loved me that much 🥺
Stupid question...on axle pull side, there will be a little gap between fork tube and spacer on wheel. So there will be a little play then ? This is driving me crazy because I have a tiny bit of play. I don't see how you wouldnt if the fork tube moves away from it when aligning it using brake method.
There shouldn't be any play. The axle has a step in it. The reason you tighten the end bolt first is to remove the play. To do this the left side pinch bolts need to be loose, or the end bolt will not pull the axle through the lower lug and play will not be removed. If you follow the steps in the video you should not have any issues.
This isn’t correct per the manual ?
The only difference is that the manual states to tighten both sides pinch bolts after compressing the forks. I prefer the method shown in the video (tighten the left side pinch bolts before fork compression).
Beautiful machine
Good vid until min 3:30. Figure out the distance between your slider fork tubes and face off a piece of aluminminiminiminium, (my bloke joke, hehe), round stock, (I used 1" diameter aluminum round stock to 5.661" long for my 2019 YZ250 2-stroke). With your last clamps still lose, put that measured piece of round stock between the fork legs, (through a hole in your brake disk), and you will see that these methods are not really great with out a tool. Just hold the rod straight between the legs, and tap the end of the fork, (the lose end, of course), until, the rod is tight and straight. Tighten the clamps, carefully remove the rod, and you are parallel within + or - .001".
If you don't use a tool, you will most likely be wearing out your fork bushings faster than you should be. It also puts cycles of strees on the upper tubes every time your suspension compresses on bumps. This method would work well though, if you loosened the upper triple clamps, unscrewed the top caps, removed the handle bars and fully compressed your suspension before you tighten the clamps, but if you measure the rod length you need, you can have a machine shop face a piece of stock off for you in about 10 minutes.
There are a lot of forks wearing out too fast out there. Not mine. :)
Dude, I love you.
Great videos! thanks for posting them; they are very helpful
when you torque screws you do it only once.
If it's only one screw holding a part then once is fine. If there are multiple screws holding the same part, especially a clamp (axle clamp, fork triple clamps) it's very important to go to and fro as I show in the video so that all screws are at the same torque. On the axle pinch screws if you only torque once the first screw torqued will be very loose after the second screw is torqued.
What type of front tire are you running?
Moses vargas - Goldentyre GT216AA Fatty (90/100-21). Shinko recently released the 216MX which I will be using from now on as it's very similar and a bit cheaper. ruclips.net/video/LHCVoNrKoVk/видео.html
Thank you for the quick response!
@@TokyoOffroad Still using the Shinko? I tried it once it doesn't last long until the side knobs start tearing off. That is a problem with Tubliss as the tire won't hold air after that. It's not just me many other NW riders have had the same issue. GT 216 since then.
Enduro K39 PNW - No, I use the Shinko 546 Fatty (90/100-21) now. No side knob tearing, wear is low and grips well. I use mine with a heavy tube at 11psi. Worth trying IMO
Thank you sir!
I use this video every time 😂
thank you
👍
Who the heck uses NM??
Nm is used in every country other than the US. I'm located in Japan and lbf ft torque wrenches are not widely available. KTM torque specs in the manual are in Nm, with lbf ft shown in brackets.
Brendan with his thumb down again? Lol
Probably! :-)
awww..he's a good boi!
Nice dog!
You did very good but failed at ending. NO brakes when compressing the forks, use some wood or other things infront om the frontwheel.
Fail? In practice this really isn't a problem at all. Using a block of wood, or the wall isn't perfect as it's easy to push the front wheel out of alignment while you're compressing the forks. My recommendation is the use the front brake.
@@TokyoOffroad Another way is to spin the frontwheel and then hit the brake. This is my method im used to. Ty
Yet another video on how to not install the front wheel
No, the video shows how to install the front wheel, not how to not install it.
@@TokyoOffroad Working in the suspension industry that's not the right way to do it
@@fuellerr - Your comments aren't helpful. If you disagree with the method I show in the video please state what you think is the correct method.
@@TokyoOffroad The axel for this bike should be tightened First making sure the axel is bottom out and against the brake side fork then the non-brake should be aligned and the best way to do this is using the Motion Pro fork alignment tool and tighten the pinch bolts. This tool will do 3 things, perfectly aline the forks, make the forks feel the same all the time, and make your fork seals last twice as long. Once you use this tool you will never want to install your front wheel without it.
@@fuellerr This video is about installing the front wheel. I agree that fork alignment in the triple clamps is very important, but I have a separate video which covers that. No, I don't use the Motion Pro tool to perform the alignment, I let the forks self align by loosening the lower triple clamp pinch bolts and right side axle pinch bolts and then pushing down on the forks with the front brake applied to align them. This is quick and easy to do. My method for installing the front wheel is the same as you listed, but I push down on the forks with the front brake applied to align the right fork lug on the axle instead of using a tool. This is a very common technique and works well. It's also the method detailed in the KTM service and user manuals.
Everything on a Chinese bike is 10x effort lol
Love your dog man, I have a lab problaby about the same age🙂
Joe Geez - He’s just turning 9 years old. My helper...