Subaru A/C Compressor Clutch Adjustment
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- Опубликовано: 28 авг 2024
- Overview of adjusting A/C compressor air gap in a 2002 Subaru Outback L.L.Bean.
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I assume no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. I recommend safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond my control, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not myself.
Thanks dude. Dealer wanted $1200 for a new compressor. This fix took 10 min on my 2014 Forester! The best part, the dealer said there was a pressure switch inside the compressor that was going bad! I told him he was full of poo.
I’ve been melting as I’ve made my 2 hour commutes and you showed me exactly how to fix my problem! Your video was direct and I didn’t have to wait through tons of chatter to get to what I needed. Thank you so much!
I just applied this fix to my 2004 Subaru Outback. It worked
perfectly. I really appreciate the work you put in all these videos. They are
extremely detailed and straight to the point. You are my top resource for all
the work I do and have done on my Outback, from simple fixes like this one, to changing
bearings and much more. Thank You!
Awesome. It never occurred to me that they shimmed the clutch.
My gap was about 0.040"! I just pulled out all the thin shims, and then thinned out the main shim. Once I put it back together it worked, and the car blows cold again.
Thanks for the video!
do you need to take the belt off in order to work on the compressor clutch? or can you do it with it on? I don’t have the tools for the belt
Worked like a charm! Wifey impressed: none of the local mechanics knew about this fix, so her A/C kept shutting off too soon...until now.
Thank you! I have a 2004 Outback that was driving me nuts. A/C worked perfectly cold but would kick out after a few minutes time. Went thru troubleshooting and watched many videos (including your other ones) to no avail. I was sure it must be the clutch but didn't realize they were adjustable until I changed my search terms to "2004 legacy a/c compressor clutch not locking up". A troubleshooting I didn't see that I found helpful was to start the car with full cold A/C and then when the clutch wasn't spinning I pulled the relay and reinserted it. I could watch the clutch plate move and then realized it was a clearance issue and then I found your video. Ice cold air anyone?!!! Thank you!!!
I drove my 2006 Forester all weekend and the A/C performed flawlessly. The fix works, without a doubt.
+Chris Coyle awesome! Glad to hear it.
Why doesnt my clutch have those holes?
Compressor was slightly different on an 01 impreza 2.2 but same thing, took out a shim and cleaned the rust and dust out now it engages fully and doesn't make noise. Ac blows cold again. Thanks a million for a very clear step by step video and thanks for the knowledge that saved me hundreds of dollars
Awesome! Glad to help! 👍🏻
Brian Howman installed a new clutch and have this metal grinding noise, it cools awesome but the noise is annoying.
Used to take my car to this workshopand and they wanted to charge me $800.00 for a new compressor. A friend of mine did this and fixed my 2001 Forester a/c. Now I am learning to do it myself with your videos. Thanks man...
You're welcome 👍🏻
Just wanted to say thanks for the video! I have a 2005 Outback 2.5i with 157k miles, and the AC clutch would not engage after a short drive. I bought all of the bolts I thought I'd need, pulled off the pulley cover, and discovered that my engine only had the 10mm bolt holding the clutch plate on. No need for the 3 M5 bolts to press the cover off! I found 2 washer/shims in the cover, but removing one created zero gap, so I had to run back to the store to find a thinner washer. I ended up replacing one of the factory washers with a 1/4" internal tooth lock washer. It did the trick, and now the A/C is cycling as it should. I've subscribed to your channel, you have a ton of really great videos. Thanks again!
+jma10780 awesome! Glad to have helped!
This is very funny. I have the same exact car and same exact miles haha. I am looking at doing this and was wondering how you got the clutch plate off? Like you said there is no spots for the 3 bolts so how did you get it off? I know this was 2 years ago so you probably don’t remember. Anyways thank you this comment is very helpful.
For anyone reading this now .... rhere are usually two shims in the compressor, and they may not be the same thickness. So, if you run into the issue the OP posts here, check the shims against each other, and make sure you haven't left the thinner one in.
Worked like a charm, thank you so much. I will say for anyone doing this, make sure that the m5 bolts you are using are a high grade bolt. And have a m5 tap on hand just in case. I started with lower grade bolts and the threads gave. Atleast an 8.8 grade and go very slow when working it off. But this does work!!!!
Thanks! Just FYI, newer Subarus (at least 2014 XV) did not require the clutch to be pulled/pressed off/on with the 5m bolts. I simply removed the drive belt, removed the 10 mm clutch bolt, and removed one shim, reassembled, and checked gap. Good to go 👍
do you still need that m6 bolt to put it back?
@@jpz6072 No, just tighten it down. It doesn't need to be pressed on.
Drive belt definitely needs to be removed?
How did you hold the clutch to remove the bolt?
And, how much torque to put back on?
@@johndemola1608 I have a 2014 and for anyone else looking for how to remove the bolt without special tools, here's what I did. I left the serpentine belt on and lightly clamped the clutch plate and pully together with vise grips. If you use only light pressure, you shouldn't mar anything. With the belt on and the clutch engaged in this way, the pulley didn't turn at all and the center 10mm bolt was easy to remove. The thin spacer you are looking for beneath may not be obvious at first, but it's located around the center shaft that is exposed once you pop the clutch plate off of the pully. You may need small needle-nose pliers to pull it out, since it's seated fairly deeply in the recessed area. Hope this helps.
@@EricK-vz5wwI just followed this and it worked awesome! Thanks for your help
Thank you Mr. Subaru1387! Used your method to fix my 2014 Forester, now works like a charm! (took it to repair shops twice, they put new heat exchanger, new schrader valves, recharged and checked for leaks, obviously wasn't real issue) I noticed that seemed RPM dependent, figured there must be a clutch, found your video, followed the instructions (found go/no-go thicknesses, checked, disassembled, did stack up, removed 1 shim, reassembled, confirmed clutch still went off/on, tested on road, now 100% like new).
my 2015 Subaru Forester needs a easy fix, dealer going to charge U,S, $1,200 to have a new compressor
Looks good, After measuring the air gap you can check the shim thickness and see what your gap will after removing the shim and reassembling.
July of 2022 and my wife and daughters (1 & 3) thank you profusely because they no longer have to sweat that way. Took me an hour-ish to do. Only add I had to do was put the 3 M5s in first in order to break the bolt loose. A/C was crapping out after 10 minutes. I ran it for two hours after the repair and it works! Thank you MrSubaru1387!
Just adding to the chorus of thanks for making this video, followed all the instructions to the letter on my 2007 Forester and everything’s working great now.
Ahh the magical land of South Carolina. Where ball joints pop off with a gentle tap, wheel bearings practically fall out, and the 5mm bolt holes in your AC clutch plate aren't rusted.
I spent 30 minutes with PB Blaster and a tap getting the three bolts to thread in. Then they started to bend every which way because the plate was seized to the shaft. Sigh. Two hours later, all back together with the proper 0.35mm gap and constant AC instead of off and on. Another couple of hundred $$ saved thanks to Mr. Subaru!
South Carolina * lol
@@MrSubaru1387 This same '07 Forester finally lost the clutch. The bearing was falling apart and the coil was burnt. I found a clutch kit on eBay and replaced everything. Thanks again, MrSubaru !!
@@chrisboyd4433any tricks to get the plate off from the shaft? I am having the same problem haha. The screws were bending like wild and I decided to retreat before breaking a bolt.
@@nicholaslichtenstadter3506 Lots of PB Blaster, heat from a heat gun or propane torch, and patience. A clutch kit with a new plate might be worth the money so that you can just pry and beat it off the shaft.
@@chrisboyd4433 thanks!!! I was thinking a new plate may be worth it.
You are an absolute legend mate. Just saved me from 30+ degrees C without aircon in the Aussie sun
You're welcome 👍🏻
The compressor clutch in my '03 Legacy wagon was completely shot (180K miles). We had to heat it with a torch and bang on it with a hammer til the bearing broke to get the rest of it off, but your video really helped us get started. Thank you very much and I look forward to watching more of your videos!!
+John Lasher glad to be of help.
Excellent video! I love the fact that you provide the metric bolt sizes, torque specs; everything need to get the job done and in one short video. It fixed the problem I was having. I have searched for videos on many subjects, and this is one of the best! Everything you need in one short video. Thank you!!!!
Just did this in my 04 Forester. USE STAINLESS STEEL BOLTS, nothing less. I used standard zinc, and they twisted, and one broke. I ended up using 2 stainless steel bolts to remove it, and I managed to get the snapped one out. Finished up as Mr Subaru suggests and i now have cold ac! Thank you Mr Subaru!
Did you have trouble getting the clutch back on? I was unable to and now have an even larger gap.
@josephlocke6775 yeah using the M6 bolt with 3 nuts screwed onto it. It was difficult at first but I used a C clamp to hold it so it doesn't spin whilst tightening. You can also buy an AC clutch removal tool which will hold it in place while you tighten. Use the method as the video shows and you'll get there.
@@user-yd5ge7zn8q on my last attempt the m6 bolt head snapped off. So now it is just stuck in there and still no ac. Ill continue to live with it until I am ready to pay for a new compressor and install.
I just used this video to fix the AC on a 2010 Forester XT. Thank you so much! For others, the three threaded holes do not exist. I gently used a couple flat head screwdrivers and pulled at it with a gloved on. It was a splined shaft that wasn't pressed, so a bit of anti-sieze on the splines and the normal 10mm bolt put it back on just fine. Shame on Subaru for not selling new clutch parts and stating in the factory service manual to replace the whole compressor if the clutch doesn't engage! I expected better from a Japanese manufacturer.
Glad to help. 👍🏻
Thank you for this comment as I looked at mine and did not see the threaded holes. This reassures me I can take off the clutch.
@@MegaChuck345
Did you have to loosen serpentine belt?
And how did you hold onto the clutch to take the bolt out?
This worked like a charm to get the A/C on my 2003 Baja working again! Thanks for posting!
I used your method and saved a repair bill of $800 from a repair shop. They said adjustment was not possible. HA! Thank you for this video. I needed to buy the screws. Total bill was five dollars and thirty cents.
+John Stefanick you're welcome! That's awesome. Glad I could help!
Very informative and well presented. I learnt that the spinny thing has to be spinning and i did not know that: seriously, i had no idea what was wrong until i saw this and went "ohhhh . . . . . Mines not moving. Okay, good to know"
Wanted to drop a quick thank you!! $16 at Harbor Freight for feeler gauges and a chain clamp and my 2015 Forester is blowing cold air consistently again. Saved me a fortune on a new compressor.
Excellent Video!!!!!! Best of all it was to the point and all visual with great subtitle instruction. I took both shims out of mine and it was right back in specs. Working great so far! Second best of all it was a 10 dollar fix.
Awesome, glad I could help. 👍🏻
Just fixed the 2003 Subie Legacy! Yeah! Thanks for the info and "how to". I even purchased the 5 MM bolts to help push the clutch off. Talk about smooth! I would have been yelling and banging my head against the tree if I did not find that little secret out. Thanks again for the video! I can look forward to driving in the summer once again.
+Ethan Allen awesome! Glad to help!
My 2010 forest is doing that. I'll give it a try. Even if it doesn't work in my case, I have to say that you do an amazing job describing how to check for this condition and how to cure it. And you made sure your work was easy to see in this video. Outstanding, others could learn proper RUclips DIY from you. Very professional.
+bobobogan thank you. Glad you enjoyed the video.
Did it work? I have a 2011 forester and my A/C doesn’t work
2006 Forester: got to remove a 0,5mm shim thanx to this video. Thank you soooooo much for this!
You're welcome 👍🏻
Great video - I was working on a 2000 Impreza Outback sport 2.2L which was a little different but your video was all I needed to figure mine out. Mine used a tiny hex screw to hold the outer splined clutch assembly on so I didn't need the three bolts (mine has no way to use that method.) My A/C would blow ice cold most of the time but would occasionally stop working even though the compressor clutch was clearly working and engaged. Taking one shim out made the clearance super tight but better then sometimes too loose. Thanks again for the video.
Thank you! Finally did this on my 05 Subaru Forester. It hasn't been working properly for years!
Just fixed my wife’s Subaru Impreza A/C by removing 2 shins and closing the gap. Thanks for posting the video!
Of all these similar RUclips videos for the Subaru A/C repair, this one IS the best. I have repaired all 3 of mine and 2 kids 2002-3003 A/C clutches the same way as here and they work perfectly now. I've been quoted $500 to $1,000 for dealer or other Diagnosis and Repair. LOL. Nope. DIY for me is the way to go. On the last A/C I fixed, it had two "shims" measuring (via micrometer) to be 0.30 mm thick, each. The spec calls for the Air Gap to be between 0.15 mm and 0.45 mm (0.30 mm difference - same as one shim). I left one in and re-seated the clutch. With the one shim remaining in, the Air Gap (your Go - NO-Go) measured 0.45 mm. After driving, it still was somewhat intermittent. ANYONE who is looking at this understands what I mean. I took the second shim out and re-measured it to now be about 0.15 mm. It works perfectly now. My point here being, IF you need to decide between higher or lower, save yourself the guess work and learn from my efforts - err on the LOWER side.
Wow! I had no idea you were able to do this. Ac compressor in my 06 wrx seems like it’s going out and I look forward to trying this instead of replacing the entire compressor!
Well made video. I was having problems and went and checked the air gap and it was way over. Pulled that clutch plate off and no shims. Previous owner must have done this already. Guess I am going for a new clutch. Thanks for your guidance though!
Super helpful tutorial! After completing this, my AC performed with zero hiccups. I noted that I only had one shim remaining and removed it. If the AC starts going intermittent again not sure what I'd do to reduce the gap.
Glad to help. 👍🏻
much appreciated mate, getting hot here and im now driving around with a grin. your a legend
This might explain why my girlfriend's 2011 Outback has been having intermittent AC issues. It seems like a pretty common issue from what I've found when searching. We're going to look into it further, since every time she takes it to the local mechanic they say the AC works fine for them.
I have a 2002 Subaru Impreza outback and every time the ac compressor kicks in it rattles the whole car, I try different use compressor but it does the same thing. Thanks alot and keep up the good work.
+jose Cordero where's the rattle coming from? The compressor? Or somewhere else?
YOU ARE THE BEST MrSubaru1387. THANK YOU SO MUCH I LEARN A LOT ABOUT SUBARU FROM YOU. GREAT VIDEO.
Legendary, just legendary! Can't believe this took me so long to find, thank you!
Glad I found this video which is excellent by the way. This just started happening on my wifes 2015 forester and this video is perfect. The timing couldn't have been better either since she is driving to Myrtle beach this Thursday and I needed a quick fix. I'll run out tomorrow and get the bolts to do it. Will post back after I do it tomorrow. Thanks in advance.
+Rumnhammer glad to help. Actually live in upstate SC. Only about 2.5hrs away from Myrtle.
Well I found out that her clutch is different, no threading in the 3 little holes, So I found that mine might just be the type that doesn't go on as far and doesn't need to pulled off, I know it still comes off because it has the bolt, but I needed to find a way to hold the clutch, so tonight I made a tool to go into the holes to hold it and tomorrow hopefully, I'll get it off to find a couple of shims to remove one of.........We live in MD and she is taking the kids to SC on Thursday so I need to sort out the AC.
+Rumnhammer the a/c not working at all or is it short cycling? Have you checked a/c fuse. Relay? Is the system fully charged?
short cycling, I checked the gap and it is bigger then spec, when it cycles on it runs cold, system is fully charged.
+Rumnhammer spec on newer compressors is 0.3 - 0.6 mm (0.0118 - 0.0236 in) what was the gap on yours?
THANK YOU MR. SUBARU!! Excellent explanation!! I didn't know that could be done!!
Wow, you just saved me $600. I bought a tee shirt off your store front!
THANK YOU!! Have been trying to figure out what the problem was with our '04 Forester that caused the A/C to cut out and not re-engage for some time now. The usual no A/C story and even though the clutch coil tested OK and there was power to it I just couldn't understand why it wouldn't engage. I was looking for a bad relay, connection or ??? that might have been to blame for a voltage drop under load but could find anything amiss. Had to unbolt the compressor in order to tip it up to run a tap through the three 5x.80 rusty holes to get the 100mm long pieces of 5X.80 all-thread to screw in that I used with a standard 2/3-way puller to pull the clutch disc. Wound up taking out both shims that totaled .022" resulting in a finished gap of the minimum .006". So far so good!!!
+Justin Brinkerhoff great! Glad to hear, glad to help.
Thanks Mr Subaru! I will use these instructions this weekend to repair my 05 Forester XT with intermittent AC :)
+jrherita glad to help!
I just did this on my 2014 CrossTrek. It was even easier than in the video because I didn't need to use the three removal bolts. I just removed the center bolt and it slid apart. Then I found two .011 shims and one .040 washer inside. I removed both shims leaving the washer in place and reinstalled the bolt. The gap was then in tolerance. Perfect. THANKS!
Glad to help! 👍🏻
How did you get the bolt out?
How did you get the clutch to not move while taking bolt out?
@@johndemola1608 Since this was several years ago, I don't have a complete memory in order to answer this question EXCEPT to recall that it took only minutes to do and no special tools were used. And I'm happy to report that it is still working perfectly.
@@johnrusso6683 ok thanks I called Auto Zone. They have a tool to loan that holds the clutch. Will try it tomorrow.
We bought our 16 year old son a 2006 Impreza wagon for his first car. Complained about the squealing all summer long. Looks like we have something to do in the springtime.
thx a million for this - searched for this high and low - same style AC - for my Nissan patrol Y61 1999 ( in Aus GU i think)
I have a 2014 Subaru Forester Limited that we just experienced this year. Had it recharged to proper levels ($140) and now just found Technical Service Bulletin 10-84-16R.
Subaru Customer Service worked with me. Cost me only $100
@@robertweber3140 how can I get a hold of a number to call or email to speak with subaru? I look at their page and find nothing to speak to a live person 😂
+1-800-782-2783
you make every thing look easy
+Christopher Ohara thank you. I try. Lol 😁
Quick tip to break the center bolt out without an impact tool - thread two of the 5M bolts in partway, and use a screwdriver or similar shafted object between them to prevent the clutch from rotating with the bolt.
Also it seems like you need high-grade hardware in a slightly shorter size, my clutch was stuck on the shaft and I severely bent a bolt instead of making any headway... Back to the store.
In having trouble with this currently. Seems like my compressor may be slightly different? (2015 Subaru Crosstrek) I can't find the threads for the bolts. Seems like there is not a place for them? Can anyone help me get the compressor but off? Whenever I try to remove it the cover keeps slipping with it. I can't add the two bolts and then wedge a screwdriver into it because there's no threads for the bolt.
imgur.com/gallery/c8nsqgP
@@MaximusFalcon Look for a video by LastHumansGarage about adjusting AC clutch for 2015 forester. There's a tool for the newer ones.
@@BlueHoundDog thanks!
I'd like to add a note of caution on performing this as described. I tried tightening the M5 bolts, but all of the bolts started bending, and one of them ended up shearing off. I was only able to extract the clutch plate after considerable modification (relocation of holes and copious amounts of grinding) of a small gear puller to pull on the center disk. If I had to guess the correct method for removing the clutch plate would be to use a harmonic balance puller pressing onto a bolt in the compressor shaft.
same thing happened to me when I tried to pull my clutch off ,bending and snapped bolts , now thinking of how to pull it off the right way .....
@@zxz8356 how did you resolve the problem? I have snapped too one of the three bolts and the clutch is still there tight to the pulley.
This worked on my 2003 Outback. Thanks.
Thanks, saved me from going out and buying all new o rings, replacing them, and recharging the system if that didn’t work I was getting a new compressor... turns out clutch was the issue and I ended up just replacing it instead of adjusting shims. 340k on it no point in adjusting it for it to slip again figured a new ac clutch was best bet and now I have AC. Oklahoma summers are brutal without AC wished I looked sooner lol 😂
You're welcome. 👍🏻
If it took 340 k to get where it is- adjusting back to spec should give another 340k in theory? (Ok I know the whole car would be junk before then- )
@@MrSubaru1387 I had to replace the ball bearing that goes in the pulley. Is there a video on how to reinstall the pulley so I don't damage anything
TYVM!!!!! i have continuous ice cold air now. 2004 Forester XT
+Geoffrey King great to hear!
Had the same problem, with same model and year
Great video with great how to. thanks for sharing. Cheers
Первый раз такое вижу! Спасибо.
+Sasha Rio Рад, что тебе понравилось.
My clutch was frozen on, to the point I thought I was going to strip the bolts or break something. So, I shot it with WD40 and let it soak overnight. Worked like a champ.
Did you release the tension on the serpentine belt before you started? It looks like it has slack
I filmed another video at the same time. The belt doesn't have to be touched for this.
So im having the opposite problem, the clutch wont let go at all. Constant turning when AC is turned both on and off.
Yea same here, trying to figure this out lol
@@o221e3the realy that energizes the ac, take it out of the fuse box. Might be a seized switch. That’s what mine did. Drop it into the ground. Fixed haha
@@wantsomecoffe did you find the fuse under the hood or in the car under the steering wheel. The only fuse that I see is "a/c IG" under the steering, but nothing under the hood. I dont see a relay for the a/c.
Hey Mr subaru, I'm pretty sure I have this problem with my 2004 forester. I tried the 3 screw method of getting the clutch off. Just bends the screws! Suckered is really on there. Even tried shorter screws. Any suggestions. Thanks
I broke 2 bolts trying this method. Wound up going to Oreilys to rent their clutch removal tool.
Before putting everything back together(the covers and snorkle) the AC should be tested, to make sure everything works, that keeps you from having to take those parts back off.
I'm having the opposite issue. Compressor clutch will not disengage and ac only blowing cool, not cold.
Why exactly does the clutch have to be adjusted to tighter tolerance? Has the metal wore down over time? Do these clutches operate via friction material? I don't think they do, so I could potentially just replacing the bearing and use the existing pulley and clutch? Or buy aftermarket pulley/bearing and use existing clutch plate as the springs on OEM clutch plate are of much better quality than the cheap springs from aftermarket that lose their tension
Any advice on how to remove center bolt without the clutch spinning? Trying to hold in place numerous ways but unable to figure out. Thank you!
Impact rachet
Thanks!
Thank You!
Hi Mr Subaru, I have learnt a lot from your channel! I have 2012 Forester and clutch gap is too large - as per video. But it does not have the 3 holes for the bolts as you show... Any tips? Is it just the center bolt? There are three small rubber stoppers on front of clutch - do I remove those ? Appreciate your guidance Thanks!!
Help needed. Cannot get the clutch plate to tighten back onto the compressor. I have the 6Mx40 bolt with a pitch of 1, washers and nuts. The gap now is like 3 meters greater than the recommended with all the tightening I can do. Suggestions?
Just an FYI. If you don't have access to the power tools, you can purchase a Clutch Holding Tool to make breaking the center nut easier. Mastercool 90499 Universal Clutch Holding Tool I had no idea these even existed until I read an a/c compressor howto article, about a Jaguar's ac problems.
Michael W Lam Where did you buy it?
Great video. A few questions if you have a moment. Our 14 Forester's AC cuts out after 20 minutes or so. Looks like it may be the AC compressor clutch although I haven't been able to get the hood open to check it while its misbehaving. So I checked the gap and its a tight .020. Q 1 - Is too tight an AC clutch gap a possible cause of this problem? Q2 - If I need to add a shim, do you know where can i buy one. (I replaced an AC compressor bearing on an 02 Dakota, lost the shim and and finding a replacement shim was a real pain.) Q3 - Is it possible the AC clutch is shot? Q4- is a junkyard replacement scavenged from a subaru compressor worth trying if it is? Sorry for all the Qs.
+Rob Kimmett '14 Forester compressor clutch clearance.
1) Check the clearance of the entire circumference around the drive plate and pulley.
Specification: 0.3-0.6mm (0.0118-0.0236 in)
2) Replace the compressor assembly if the inspection result is not within the standard.
Straight from the factory service manual. What I recommend, no. I'd try finding another Subaru at the local Pull-A-Part and try to snag the shims out of its compressor. If the gap is too tight the compressor could be dragging or running when it shouldn't be, causing pressures to rise too high. Do a visual inspection of the compressor. Make sure it's engaging and disengaging. Listen for any noises.
Thanks for getting back Mr. Subaru. Appreciate the good advice. I'll double check the gap in multiple spots. Today I ran the Forester for 45 minutes in the driveway with the AC going full blast. At the end of the experiment the air coming out of the vents was 62 F and line out of the compressor was warm to the touch (return was plenty hot). The clutch was engaged and the compressor was spinning the whole time. No weird noises.
One other piece of the puzzle has me wondering now. This car was in a minor front end accident just about 1 year ago. The repair included a new AC condenser. We're in MA so we didn't need a lot of AC until about nine months later which coincidentally is when we started notice the problem, no surprise when it was blazing hot.
I'm beginning to suspect that the body shop that did the repair may not have charged the AC properly or that there is a leak resulting from a mistake in installing the condenser. Do you think its worthwhile to get the refrigerant level checked and to have a leak test?
Thanks again, Rob
Thanks
Sounds to me like you're low on refrigerant. I'd see about an A/C system vacuum, pressure test, and recharge.
Why would AC only work when dial is set to defrost and floor vents? Clutch/compressor not engaged when dial setting is on front vents. 2015 Forester. Thanks.
Thank you for this info. I'll be aware of my old outback in the future. Now.... May I ask you if this could happens to 98 CRV ?? It's condition is sound familiar....and I remember that my second car is just like this situation.
@MrSubaru1387, when looking at your video it looks like you can use shorter screws. Is that true or do you really need 40mm? It is a nightmare to use a geared wrench and hold the clutch in place. Why isn't yours spinning like others and myself have seen
Try to notice the intermittent A/C symptoms before your coil overheats and need to replace the coil.
Thanks for the feedback.
I believe this is the problem on my 05 Legacy. But I only have two "thick" shims. Removing one of them resulted in no air gap. Is there a place to buy more shims of different thicknesses?
Do those 5 mill bolts for removing the clutch need to be so long? I'm having trouble threading everything in the tight space
Nice video. Will too large of a gap cause the ac to intermittently blow cold air?
Yes. Also a low refrigerant charge or weak compressor will as well.
I purchased an aftermarket clutch kit and it appears the springs on the clutch plate lost their tension force after only 2 months as the spring no longer pushes outward and so the clutch stays partially engaged even with the AC turned off. Is it possible to use my original clutch plate even though it's worn out? I don't know if both sides need clutch material, although these things aren't meant to be slipping so it should be okay even if the old one is worn down a lot?
Does this method only apply to vehicles that do not have variable-displacement compressors such as the Subaru's built after 2010? I'm doing research on my why '11 Outback is having issues and my clutch is always engaged but I believe, after reading, this is because it is variable-displacement without an actual electromagnetic clutch that you can see engage/disengage. I searched the comments and could not find anything on this topic.
i have a similar clutch , its not a subaru though. those 3 m5 bolts could not get it out. the bolts were bent , i did nt tighten them anymore. dont know what to do.
Mr Subaru, my daughter just bought a 2009 Forester and the A/C clutch makes a bunch of noise but still runs at normal speed and blows amazingly cold air. Does she need a replacement compressor or is there an easy fix for this issue?
EDIT: Pretty sure mine is showing signs of the TSB 10-84-16R advisory (VIN and compressor S/N qualify!), so I messaged my (only) local Subie dealership re: replacement.
Sadly these great pointers didn't pan out for me. For starters the three holes in the clutch on my 2014 Subaru Forester don't really do anything so threading the M5 bolts into them didn't go anywhere. (Took me forever to find those at Lowe's!) I see another set of 3 'holes' plugged with tiny rubber grommets, but I didn't wanna go digging those out to check?!
Secondly, HOW do you stop that mofo from turning while you try to unscrew (by hand) the main M6 bolt? I gave up trying. Plus, the gap on my A/C is already pretty tight; just doesn't seem to wanna activate 100% of the cycle? See "Edit" above.
Hi Mr Subaru. Thank you for all the many helpful videos. I have an issue where my AC Compressor keeps cycling off and on. Would this help if the gap is too large or small?
Likely low on charge.
Actually shop recharged it but said the compressor needed to be replaced. Wondering if this could help squeeze more life out of it.
Just installed a new compressor and recharged the system on my 2000 forester. The compressor screeches everytime I turn the A/C on. I look and it looks like the clutch is turning slowly. Checked tolerance of the clutch air gap and it's within spec. Would this just point to a bad compressor off the shelf usually?
I'm pretty sure I just destroyed my compressor. The M5 bolts threaded almost all the way in and started to bend. I was worried about them snapping off, so I pulled them back out, but now the clutch doesn't turn smoothly.
Same thing happened to me this last week, though in my case one DID shear off. Behind the clutch plate, the M5 bolts hit the edge of the compressor casing, then end up pushing against the snap ring that holds the pulley on to the shaft. It seems a poor pressing surface. See if you can get a small harmonic balance puller to thread into the M5 threads, and thread a 40mm M6 bolt into the shaft to give something to press against.
In my case I had a sheared off bolt in one of the holes, so that wouldn't work. I took a drill and cutoff wheel on a dremel to take a 3" gear puller and turn it into a mini puller (only ~2" tall!) to pull on the 2.25" center disk of the clutch. It worked to remove the plate, but i wouldn't recommend this route because it took me 2 tries to get the geometry of the puller correct.
06 Subaru no power to ac hooked green plug under dash clutch didn't engage check fuse and relay both good unplugged and jumped to battery and it engaged
Vey cool doing this on the 96 tomarrow didn't know it was so easy
Does the AC belt have to be loosened for this to work?
No it does not. As long as you just remove the face and adjust the shims.
@@jamesu Thank you! I have a 2010 Forester with the stupid stretch belt and was wondering if I needed to remove it to do this job.
@@michaelbergman4508 you are welcome
Very informative, thanks...!
+thumpin1 you're welcome.
My clutch doesn't have those holes for removal bolts. 2008 Outback.
How do I remove/adjust it?
Was it difficult reaching the belt release? (marker 1:26) shows the belt loose where as a second earlier it was taut.
+Michael W Lam no. The belt doesnt need to be touched for this adjustment. Had it off because I removed the alternator at the same time. Was filming multiple videos simultaneously.
Should the compressor clutch be spinninng even if AC is out of pressure? Mine doesnt spin but it spins freely if spinned by hand.
You sir. Have some nice tools
Thanks!
I'm late to the game here, but then again I drive a much loved 2002 Limited with the 4 cylinder that has started having intermittent bouts of blowing warm but then returning to normal ice cold air after the AC has been shut off for a few minutes. This is very inconvenient here in southwest Florida. My question is, do the tolerances given for this 6 cylinder apply to my 4 cylinder? Visually the unit faces appear the same but I don't want to just assume they are.
Ugh.. just tried this, and broke two bolts trying to remove the compressor clutch assembly.. I'm not sure if starting up the car will cause damage at this point, so I may have it towed to a dealer.. Post mortem EDIT - I was a little lazy and didn't feel like driving around to get higher grade bolts for the pull-out of the clutch. I'd also recommend PB blaster or some kind of 'bolt loosening' agent before trying this on an older/higher mileage Subaru. MrSubaru's technique though is the right way to go..
+jrherita that's not good. H6 or 4 cylinder model?
4 cyl turbo (05 FXT) - right now i'm trying to figure out how to remove the AC belt without taking the radaitor out so i can just get it to the dealer.. :)
+jrherita take the alternator belt off and then you can remove the ac belt. No need to remove the radiator. I have a video on removing belts.
thx for replies - the other way to remove the ac belt is loosen the top ac bolt but that's doing funny stuff that makes me worry that's going to snap next.. :(. ugh my mustang is so much easier to work on :)
+jrherita you don't unbolt the ac compressor.. Even if you did you couldn't remove the belt because the alternator belt is going to keep it from coming off of the crank.
Mine only had 1 shim in it and I took it out but it closed the gap too much making it touch. Need thinner shim? Can I just sand it down smaller or something like that? Gonna try.☺ Yeah, was able to thin it with my vibrating sander. Got the gap right but didn't stop the squealing noise when it engages. Is that my clutch or the compressor? 02 Outback Legacy wagon.