The textured sheet is the only way to go for PETG. No more Windex ever again. Flex the sheet up/down and the print releases. PETG sticks to it when hot and then when it cools it essentially acts like a textured teflon non-stick coating. ALSO, no acetone on the textured sheet ever. It is verboten. From PRUSA site: "The textured sheet doesn't need anything for PETG. The smooth sheet needs something to reduce PETG's grip. For PETG printed below 240C, a spray of Windex or just a few wipes of your fingers on a clean bed is sufficient. If using higher temps, glue stick may be necessary."
Thanks a lot for this video, it was super clear and I've learned a lot. I've had no issues with PLA but after many failed attempts at PETG, this video was super super helpful. Thanks again. Note: I've also tried with the textured sheet but it would not stick to the plate no matter what I tried. Again, thanks for this :)
Good Video. I've been printing actual Prusament PETG on my smooth sheet MK3S by only wiping it down with an alcohol wipe before each print. Prints have always popped right off after cool down when flexing the print bed sheet so I never sought out a different prep procedure, but I will give the Windex a try. I wasn't aware that the Amazon Filament was any good so will give that a try also. I love the idea of the filament being wiped on the way in. Never thought of that either! All good stuff sir. Well done and thanks!
+1 to the heated tightening. I used to get jams like crazy until I did that. I even had a nozzle walk itself out to the point that I came back to a blob that was barely contained by the silicone sock. I managed to salvage the heater cartridge but the block, nozzle and thermistor were too encased to get out or be useful. Had I not put the sock on, I would have come back to an even worse mess.
I have used petg for about a year now and after over 25000 print hours I will stay with petg simply because it's strong will flex before breaking instead of shattering like pla and is great for outdoor use.
For any object that may see the inside of a car during an Arizona summer, PETG is the way to go. People have slow baked cookies on their dashboards here.
Actually I always use the textured sheet. While I adjust the first layer as you describe, I want a "close surface" as I most often the underside of the print is later the top or front (like the display on the mk3). Do give it a perfect look, I edit the gcode and set M221 S105 and M220 S50 after the first after_layerchange (and M221 S95 and M220 S100 after the second). This way I intentional oversqeeze the first layer a bit, but printing it extra slow. Also I increase the printing temperature for the first layer about 5°C. And I use hilbert curve as a pattern for the bottom. Thne prints look perfect; esp. as PET-G always is very reflective, the combination of hilbert curve, the texture of the bed and the higer flowrate results in quite beautiful surfaces. Due to printing the first layer very slow and with a slightly higer temperature, the print still sticks very well (sometimes to well, but if thats the case, I simply put the spring steel with the print in the freezer for about 20 minutes...). Actually the high glossy surface of PET-G has an interesting sideeffect: You can label your print by adding f.e. text as a modifier, changing just the bottom pattern to concentric. The reflection of the text (concentric) than differs from the rest (printed in hilbert curve) - so actualy you can write "black on black". A nice but rarely known feature...
I would suggest the hot end sock, it keeps the hot end clean and reduces maintenance. Also a print server to run all 3 printers. I run repetier server and it will run 3 printers at once from a raspberry pi, although I am working on swapping it out with a PC so I can run integrated cameras.
The textured sheet is the only way to go for PETG. No more Windex ever again. Flex the sheet up/down and the print releases. PETG sticks to it when hot and then when it cools it essentially acts like a textured teflon non-stick coating. ALSO, no acetone on the textured sheet ever. It is verboten. From PRUSA site: "The textured sheet doesn't need anything for PETG. The smooth sheet needs something to reduce PETG's grip. For PETG printed below 240C, a spray of Windex or just a few wipes of your fingers on a clean bed is sufficient. If using higher temps, glue stick may be necessary."
It is the Original formula. I don't think the ammonia is significant. It will evaporate away. The small amount of surfactant left is the release agent.
Great video. I like your setup so much I bought Kimwipes. I hope Kimberly-Clark is paying you, if not they should be. I have a MK3S+ and 2 new MK4’s. What other maintenance do you do to keep the white dust/film from petg from building up on the fan shrouds and bottom of the extruders? Thx.
I never came up with a magic bullet for solving that problem. I think a Kim wipe and some alcohol and a little elbow grease is about all I could recommend.
PETG will absolutely absorb moisture. I can tell the difference between dry and "wet" PETG. It will, however, still print OK, and I tend to use up the roll before it becomes a problem. I DO dry my filament when necessary: PETG is dried at 170F for 2 hours. There is a pervasive myth that PETG does not absorb moisture... this is demonstrably false. However, it is much more tolerant than many filaments. Hope this helps.
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I highly recommend using the textured sheet, PETG releases nicely, you don’t need to windex it, it adds a nice texture to the bottom.
I may have to invest in one so
The textured sheet is the only way to go for PETG. No more Windex ever again. Flex the sheet up/down and the print releases. PETG sticks to it when hot and then when it cools it essentially acts like a textured teflon non-stick coating. ALSO, no acetone on the textured sheet ever. It is verboten.
From PRUSA site: "The textured sheet doesn't need anything for PETG. The smooth sheet needs something to reduce PETG's grip. For PETG printed below 240C, a spray of Windex or just a few wipes of your fingers on a clean bed is sufficient. If using higher temps, glue stick may be necessary."
Thanks a lot for this video, it was super clear and I've learned a lot. I've had no issues with PLA but after many failed attempts at PETG, this video was super super helpful. Thanks again.
Note: I've also tried with the textured sheet but it would not stick to the plate no matter what I tried.
Again, thanks for this :)
Thanks for the nice feedback. Took me a while to crack the code, then it was problem-free. 👊
Good Video. I've been printing actual Prusament PETG on my smooth sheet MK3S by only wiping it down with an alcohol wipe before each print. Prints have always popped right off after cool down when flexing the print bed sheet so I never sought out a different prep procedure, but I will give the Windex a try. I wasn't aware that the Amazon Filament was any good so will give that a try also. I love the idea of the filament being wiped on the way in. Never thought of that either! All good stuff sir. Well done and thanks!
+1 to the heated tightening. I used to get jams like crazy until I did that. I even had a nozzle walk itself out to the point that I came back to a blob that was barely contained by the silicone sock. I managed to salvage the heater cartridge but the block, nozzle and thermistor were too encased to get out or be useful. Had I not put the sock on, I would have come back to an even worse mess.
Super like! Great video and thank you for making this!
Thanks for the visit
I have used petg for about a year now and after over 25000 print hours I will stay with petg simply because it's strong will flex before breaking instead of shattering like pla and is great for outdoor use.
For any object that may see the inside of a car during an Arizona summer, PETG is the way to go. People have slow baked cookies on their dashboards here.
Some great tips Spencer. It hadn't occurred to me that I should put the new nozzle on when the print head is hot. Makes sense.
Right out of the PRUSA manual.
I guess the Prusa manuals are much better than the Creality manuals... 🙂
PETG is super easy to print on the mk3s+. It is harder to get off from the smooth sheet. I like to use the Satin sheet on my MK3S+
Thanks for that tip, I am having that issue removing the prints from the plate
If you follow the procedure in the video, PETG is not hard to get off the sheet.
I made needle roller bearings in housings that attach to the Prusa Tee Bar which work perfectly.
That's a great idea!
Actually I always use the textured sheet. While I adjust the first layer as you describe, I want a "close surface" as I most often the underside of the print is later the top or front (like the display on the mk3). Do give it a perfect look, I edit the gcode and set M221 S105 and M220 S50 after the first after_layerchange (and M221 S95 and M220 S100 after the second). This way I intentional oversqeeze the first layer a bit, but printing it extra slow. Also I increase the printing temperature for the first layer about 5°C.
And I use hilbert curve as a pattern for the bottom.
Thne prints look perfect; esp. as PET-G always is very reflective, the combination of hilbert curve, the texture of the bed and the higer flowrate results in quite beautiful surfaces. Due to printing the first layer very slow and with a slightly higer temperature, the print still sticks very well (sometimes to well, but if thats the case, I simply put the spring steel with the print in the freezer for about 20 minutes...).
Actually the high glossy surface of PET-G has an interesting sideeffect: You can label your print by adding f.e. text as a modifier, changing just the bottom pattern to concentric. The reflection of the text (concentric) than differs from the rest (printed in hilbert curve) - so actualy you can write "black on black". A nice but rarely known feature...
Nicely done! I aspire to reach your level of shop organization!
Thank you! Though I aspire to that of others. 👊
I would suggest the hot end sock, it keeps the hot end clean and reduces maintenance. Also a print server to run all 3 printers. I run repetier server and it will run 3 printers at once from a raspberry pi, although I am working on swapping it out with a PC so I can run integrated cameras.
The textured sheet is the only way to go for PETG. No more Windex ever again. Flex the sheet up/down and the print releases. PETG sticks to it when hot and then when it cools it essentially acts like a textured teflon non-stick coating. ALSO, no acetone on the textured sheet ever. It is verboten.
From PRUSA site: "The textured sheet doesn't need anything for PETG. The smooth sheet needs something to reduce PETG's grip. For PETG printed below 240C, a spray of Windex or just a few wipes of your fingers on a clean bed is sufficient. If using higher temps, glue stick may be necessary."
Very good video. Do you use the Windex Original with Ammonia or the ammonia-free version. Is the ammonia important for this application?
It is the Original formula. I don't think the ammonia is significant. It will evaporate away. The small amount of surfactant left is the release agent.
Thank you for answer
Great video. I like your setup so much I bought Kimwipes. I hope Kimberly-Clark is paying you, if not they should be. I have a MK3S+ and 2 new MK4’s. What other maintenance do you do to keep the white dust/film from petg from building up on the fan shrouds and bottom of the extruders? Thx.
I never came up with a magic bullet for solving that problem. I think a Kim wipe and some alcohol and a little elbow grease is about all I could recommend.
Great setup! Thanks for the tips!
Happy to be of service! 👊
Do you have a .stl file for the spool ends?! I’m going to give the overture PETG a try when it arrives.
You mean the cardboard spool adapters? I did a separate video on them. See also pfg.gg/links.
@@KPNH thank you so much! Printing these today since my PETG just arrived.
You print without silicon socks? Brave! They are super cheap, and it will save you from the blob of doom.
I live on the edge. 😐
Do you have any issues with the PETG absorbing moisture?
PETG will absolutely absorb moisture. I can tell the difference between dry and "wet" PETG. It will, however, still print OK, and I tend to use up the roll before it becomes a problem. I DO dry my filament when necessary: PETG is dried at 170F for 2 hours. There is a pervasive myth that PETG does not absorb moisture... this is demonstrably false. However, it is much more tolerant than many filaments. Hope this helps.
But do you have to stone the beds PFG first? 😄
This is the Way.
What temperatures do you use for overture petg?
I use the profile for Prusament PETG. I think it’s 230C/80C.
You sound very much like my ex STAX headphone reviewer. Any connections?
Nope.
Please retain at teaching people anything. Please.
I'd be honored to retain. I will, of course, require a retainer.