I love bmw but aside from the inline six their engines suck. E90 m3 v8’s rod and main bearing issues …. Twin turbo 8 issues… these cars just take everything from your soul and yet people keep protecting them. Want something you can actually beat on years down the line spend the money and get a Porsche. At least it has resale value.
The N/S63 is like the finest collaboration between all major German manufacturers. Take each brands greatest hits and distill them into one masterpiece. Nowhere else will you find BMW’s coolant leaks & rod bearing failures, VW’s oil leaks & timing chain issues, Porsche’s bore scoring, and just general German calamity all in one place. Hats off to you, BMW! 🍻
of courses with poor preventative maintenance you will experience and encounter major failures in both n/s63, depending how you treat the car you will also encounter major failures, i can’t speak much on the original n/s63 since i own a n63tu but i’ve seen both n63/tu last 100k and well over 100k without rod bearing problems or major coolant leaks, neither can i speak on the s63 because i have never owned it or had personal experience with it but in my eyes mainly anything before any technical update is complete garbage, you will face both major mechanical and electrical issues with both first gen n/s63, imo n/s63tu2/3 being the best in reliability with the proper preventative maintenance
@oemn63 all i know is that same year hellcats with a simple v8 supercharger setup are extremely reliable for the amount of abuse they get. i have x3 m40i and hesitate to buy any bmw v8 turbo cars. the b58 and s58 engines are so powerful bmw could really just stop using the v8s in 5 series and no one would complain.
The alusil block can absolutely be rehoned or even bored and repaired. As there’s more and more aging alusil blocks in the world, the tools and processes are getting more and more prolific, especially in Germany. Check out M539’s channel investigating this very topic. This block is a perfect candidate for repair, and would probably save a lot of money, depending on how much BMW is still discounting their short blocks.
Yeah this is such a strange sentiment in the US. There are shops that can machine, hone and properly expose Alusil blocks all over Europe. It is literally aluminum with silicone crystals in it. It machines like an aluminum block. The special requirements to finish the cylinder walls are a speciality hone/compound, and a nicer surface profilometer. It's not magic. The manufacturer of the alloy has extensive documentation for the tooling and processes. I think it's just fear or laziness from automotive machine shops here. and BMW is in the business of selling complete engines, not offering refurbishing services. Shocker. If you need Alusil work done in the US, call Peter at Partee Racing. They can work on these blocks without jumping straight to iron sleeves, or nikasil-ing your block.
My wife's E70 X5M has been excellent for us. She's put 100K miles on it since March 2020 when we bought it for $19,500 with 64K miles on it. I've done all the maintenance myself and spent more at FCP than I'd like to think about. However, the only unplanned maintenance was a new alternator at 97K miles. Other than that, it has never let us down. The same goes for my E60 M5, but I've only put 20K on that in the same time. These cars are fantastic, but they demand preventative maintenance.
We're almost on the same path. I went remote in 2020, bought a 13 X5M for $21k 83k miles, and did a tune up and battery to get it solid. 128k miles now with fairly persistent little things, but only one breakdown from the hpfp breaking (literally cracked at the mounting tab) 900 miles from home luckily 100 miles from our destination. But we've also done that trip multiple times both ways.
125k on my f10 m5. Also been absolutely a joy. It's tuned, otherwise completely stock. Ran 5w40 from day one and oil changed at 4k intervals. Still on original injectors, rod bearings etc. oil analysis is great. Take care of it and it will take care of you. Trust me 🤝🏼.
If you want all BMW engine problems of all the different BMW engines in one engine than is the N63 / S63 the right one for you😂 BTW great video as usually Gareth!
@@KM-ol5bs I find it funny that BMW's middle tier engine is the one that's actually the well engineered and well built one instead of their top of the line engine
I just finally finished valve cover gaskets, injectors, water pump, and some other stuff on my 2016 X5 50i. Watching this video was really cool…but also made me shiver thinking about how tight it was working on it and all the stuff I had to remove. 😂
My n63TU has 155K miles and still pushing!!! I treat her better than myself LOL only major thing was a radiator but everything else is regular maintenance/ wear and tear
I have a n63 with 190k miles and still going strong. I did the steam seals at around 70k miles, replaced the turbos at 120kmiles. Other than that nothing else other than normal maintenance.
Yes, and if you'd had a vehicle with identical performance and similar appearance from Toyota/Lexus you wouldn't have needed to do anything other than change the oil and other fluids on schedule.
@@frankmiller95 yes. The real comparison is the very reliable hellcat. Simple v8 supercharger(no crazy hot v turbo problems) , more power at 700hp and extremely reliable with constant abuse. I haven’t heard of major engine failures in hellcats, just minor stuff. Lots of high mileage hellcats. Biggest issue, inside/outside looks worse than any m5, being robbed/killed while driving it or it being stolen while parked.
These engines are not as bad as people say , these engines are super robust as long as you take care of it. I got my 2013 F10 M5 with 17k miles and it’s now at 40k, not one problem. Just run liquid moly, engine oil cleaner from FCP that can help protect the valve steam seals, also Lucas engine oil stabilizer is great for this platform of engine. Water wetter from Redline to help keep the coolant cool is also a plus to run here and is recommended for tuned S63’s of any technical update variant. As a 7 year bmw tech the best way to keep these engines happy is to actually care for it properly. Don’t wait on your services just take care of it and it will take care of you.
No offense, but are you seriously saying a car not breaking by 40k miles is reliable? My E60 M5 has 206k miles, I got it at 63k. Nothing even went wrong on my car until 83k miles. 40k miles almost seems like a joke, and I seriously hope it was.
yeah you're about 60K miles away from the inevitable "replace any and everything rubber or plastic in the engine bay" 100K mile service! Wait for it.... When they are running good, they are hands down the Ultimate Driving Machine, but when they have significant or catastrophic problems, it can make your pride and joy money child, a worthless hunk of metal extremely fast unless you are able to open up your BIG wallet and get things fixed (this includes even if you DIY).
Hey I own an F10 LCI M5 Competition!!!! I've been looking forward to this! My car is at 120k. I love it!!! I actually might have a leaky oil return cover, when I go full throttle I can smell oil. I already changed my PCV hoses. I also run 5w-30 oil, I start driving right when I turn the car on, but I make sure to keep the load light and shift early until the oil is warmed up. It is important for any F10/F0x M5/M6 owner, if you're driving in warm weather or driving hard make SURE the car is in SPORT PLUS MODE. The auxiliary water pumps run more and you will notice your oil temp stay near 200 instead of rising so much.
Yeah same here, a lot of people leave the car idling at cold for 5-10mins, but correct way would be just wait 10secs, then just throw it in D and keep it extremely light and rpms lower than 2.2k.
@@BulletsGarage the dealership uses 0w-30. Plus, the weight doesnt matter as much as the certification. I use Liqui Moly 5w30 Special Tec B Fe which conforms to the BMW LL 01 FE standard, which is needed for the S63.
Can confirm, n63tu in my x5 has been in the work shop more times then I can count. When it’s running it’s a great torquey motor, when it’s not, it’s almost always gonna be expensive to fix.
For a single jug off a porshe to be redone is 400$ plus shipping... For 1 cylinder not a whole engine. Its a nice idea, but a highly cost prohibited option compared to something like a replacement block or used block. They have to use bigger pistons too.
De cat it - gets read of the heat much better + always use 10w 60 oil. One very important think to remember, it takes long time to warm it up, people are inpatient. Never rev it until its properly warmed up. Its an amazing engine, especially when it works 😅
Thanks for this! at the moment I have a M340i but can't wait to upgrade to an F90 LCI. Build engines can run 900whp on pump gas! Almost Veyron power for 1/10th of the cost.
The LCI F90 is a handsome beast! Our friends over at @evolveautomotive in the UK have really showed the world how usable they can be at high power with some choice mods.
At 12min, block is “not reusable” due to cylinder scoring. Why not steel sleeve it, impossible or too costly? @FCP Euro Media great video btw, very informative!
I still have my original 2001 E39 3.0 with a stage II Dinan with 250k on it and it still runs like a dream. The 3.0 inline six M54 is one of the best engines BMW has ever made. I’d love to have a F90 2022 LCI but the design and upkeep costs I don’t think make sense for me. I would likely only put less than 3k miles on it annually but even then there are so many issues with the warranty cost after 40k miles or 4 yrs I don’t think it’s actually worth it. I’ll keep researching maybe the LCI’s are a bit more reliable after 75k-100k miles.
It is a reliable engine. B.E bearings & good throttle actuators & the car will run amazing, idiots just rev cold high reving motors. Now the smg that comes with the cars can cause more trouble
Great video. This engine is probably gone by lack of maintenance. These engines go bad due to bad lubrication. Otherwise it’s a pretty good engine. It just need an owner that keeps up with maintenance and does good warmup and cool down of the engine.
Super informative. I do have a leak somewhere in my S63TU in my 2017 X5M. Not quite sure where to begin. Don't see smoke, don't see puddles under car so not sure where it is leaking. Hope it doesn't look like that engine with the black sludge.
Could be valve cover gaskets. But could also be other things…lotsa places to leak, unfortunately. Lower oil pan gasket is easy to do. Upper oil pan gasket…not so much. Might as well do rod bearings while you’re in there lol
Great material👏 I have only one small problem with my S63 - the engine seems to wave when driving at low revs at a constant speed or when driving downhill, under load there is no such effect. Maybe a hint?
Beautiful video, really great knowledge being showed But 5min in I seen enough to have me look away from this motor I didn’t even finish the video I was so disappointed in bmw
Very good video! Great information about the weep hole - my S63 seem to have an oil leak which would look like rear main bearing seal, but now I know what to check first :)
Vry wonderful critical demo of bmw S63 again doze questionary V8 rear sided cylinder's turn out to b problematic V8 compact size is always quoted but longevity of rear cylinders it depends but vry great vid uploaded about bmw S63 engine head fuel lines turbo & of course issues relating to timing of S63 engine
Great video! I notice you mention that the wider piston skirt is the loaded side and faces down/out which makes sense. However all pistons are identical (i.e. one part number for all 8) with the same arrow on top the piston, to be installed facing forward. That means that one bank will be installed with the wider skirt facing down/out and one bank will be installed with the wider skirt facing up/in? Is this correct?
Excellent video. Very informative and don’t thing there is another video out there that is as complete as this one. I currently have a 2020 X5M Comp with 44K miles that I bought brand new. 5K oil changes its entire life, never burns oil or coolant. Never been tuned either. For the past year I’ve been dealing with misfire in cylinder 6 only during cold starts or extended idling. Once I start driving zero misfires. Already changed LPFP, HPFP, all spark plugs and coil packs. I even changed out the injector for cylinder 6 and the issue remains. Some days it’s better and some days worse. Only idling or cold starts. Any ideas what else I should look at?
Engines need 4 things to run, air, fuel, spark, and compression. I would do a smoke test and see if there is a vacuum leak near cylinder 6. If its hit or miss it doesnt sound like a compression issue, which is good. If you have a scan tool see if you can monitor live data for knock, misfires, during a cold start, and record the data. I would also check your battery and see if it has sufficient charge, you might think im crazy but BMWs are very sensitive about their batteries.
I will give some insight since I own one of these engines and fix them for a living, the coolant reservoir is known to leak on the driver side, the side that you’re having issues with, some piss, some leak enough to not notice at all, you replace the expansion tank, some never leak again some leak a few months later. Likely you have a coolant leak on that side. Even if it’s already been fixed, check the connector for the injectors and coils on that whole entire bank 5-8 it’s a known issue that coolant contamination corrodes the connector bad enough you have electrical issues. Check your cam solenoid connectors for contamination as well. This specific leak has hydrolocked peoples engines, shorted the injectors, shorted the coils, arcs spark plugs, and ruins the engine harness, if this is what’s going on the damage may have already been done and you’re now down on compression, if compression is good and all of which checks out(no coolant leak from reservoir + all your new parts+ no contaminated connectors (they will look crusty and corroded) you could have a bad dme. Sorry for so much info but the expansion reservoir leak wrecks havoc in so many ways some issues are immediate and some can happen long term and it all comes from there
@@the_first_resort940 Thanks for the info. I'm familiar with the coolant expansion tank leak that happens on the M5's. I have a X5M and the tank is located on the side so doesn't have that issue. I've also pulled all the plugs, coil packs and all looks clean. Even the plugs didn't look bad and was consistent across all cylinders. I checked all of the wiring visually but didn't see anything that looks concerning. Does bmw sell portions of the coilpack harness or is it just the whole engine harness?
@@clonetrooper576 Def not the battery since i have it on a trickle charger almost every night. I know these are a finicky when the battery is low so I always keep it topped off. I can see during live data that #6 misfire counter keeps going up but eventually goes back to zero. Once i start driving the counter stays at 0. Is it possible that fouling injector in other cylinders cause #6 to misfire? I'm wondering if its worth wild to change all 8 injectors at this point.
Wait a second…29:22…the intake and exhaust sprockets come as the same color? No way…my intake cam sprockets are black and the exhausts are a bright orange…I assumed they were color coded to know which was which…are they REALLY both black to start? 😳
Thank you Garath..Amazing video... I have an F10M5 with this engine which was replaced at 53,000ks after a rod bearing failure. Sadly, now I have little long term faith in it and apart from very regular oil service and careful driving, I don't know how to ensure long life. BTW, what is your recomendation for oil grade. I live in a very moderate temperature area, no cold or very high temperatures.
The dealer will recommend you 0w-30. Most enthusiasts recommend 0w-40 or 5w-40, some say 5w-50. If you're running stock rod bearings I would go for either 0w-40 or 5w-30. I personally use Liqui Moly Special Tec B Fe 5w-30 and have had no issues, i also do drive my car daily and sometimes do short trips at low throttle, so I don't need too thick oil.
I saw another video that showed that the S63 engine block has 8 bolt main bearing caps. The mains are also cross bolted from each side of the block. So the engine blocks are different between the N63 you show and the S63?
Seeing the S63 as it comes out of the chassis gives me nightmares. I had a plastic coolant tee break on my R53 Mini Cooper which cost me an engine, so I make plastic cooling system components maintenance items to replace before they break. I shudder to think how many hoses and fittings I would need to replace if I owned an S63 powered car to “bullet proof” it for maybe 10 years.
Hi. Can you please give us some tips for removing the S63 engine by pulling it from the top? Since all of us don’t have electrical jack. Thanks for the video.
Hard to imagine that all these "problems" and "potential" problems or shortcomings are not the result of planned obsolescence. I mean look at all those hoses, how small the crankshaft/conrod journals and bearings are, and how fragile/inadequate the gaskets are . . . . and the list goes on.
The primary problem you're going to have on these engines is the driver. Joking. Just get one with an S63TU4 engine, where BMW switched from using Alusil to plasma coating.
Been smelling coolant and oil lately. Was hoping it’s just the cracked PCV hose and turbo coolant lines. Now this video has me paranoid about that coolant crossover and the oil drain in the valley 😂
I have a 2020 X5 M50i I just hit about 60k miles so do I have the N63TU? What can I do now to prevent some of this? I have done a bunch of preventative maintenance recommended from this channel already, any info would be appreciated.
if i owned such vehicle, i would change oil every 5k miles with motul products. I would also use the motul engine clean product every other oil change. I would use their fuel additives periodically as well. At 60k miles i’m not exactly sure what needs to be done but I would think spark plugs, change coolant in high and low temp circuits. Inspect coolant expansion tanks, inspect for any oil leaks. Possibly look into lower temp thermostat options if you live in a warmer climate or drive the vehicle at high load frequently.
@@expofcam thanks for the super helpful advice, I have changed the front differential fluid, transfer case fluid and rear differential fluid. I might re due the transfer case fluid because I didn’t not open the valve before the job. My vehicle has about 62k on the clock and I’m am doing my best to have it last me at least 4 years.
@@highendtrends3508 most definitely that’s good you serviced those components as well, i think it will keep running strong. What do you have planned after the 4 years?
@ I just graduated from college and I took an accelerated EMT program to get my patient care hours and then I’m applying to med school. By then I should be in my residency and making some decent money.
@@caliwatornot true at all e46 is a horrible M car that has prolific issues lmfao the best bmw engines at the moment are s58's and b58's that not only can be reliable but also powerful at the same time.
@ e46 m cars have horrible problems. rod bearings, vanos, valve adjustment, key lock tumblers, rear subframe issues the list is even higher when you get the SMG trans lol.
I love reading comments from fellow enthusiasts who say these engines are not bad and just need preventative maintenance. LISTEN, replacing all the stuff around the block is not maintenance. THEY ARE BADDD.
Anytime I'm dreaming and feel like buying an M-series car, I come to this channel and watch one of these videos to give me a nice dose of reality.
I love bmw but aside from the inline six their engines suck. E90 m3 v8’s rod and main bearing issues …. Twin turbo 8 issues… these cars just take everything from your soul and yet people keep protecting them. Want something you can actually beat on years down the line spend the money and get a Porsche. At least it has resale value.
Now you're prepared to keep one on the road! 😊
Same
@@Vgk36you've clearly never owned one
@@heyhayhay247oh yeah e36 M3 Japan rot.
E92 335i
X5 35d
E92 M3 alpine white.
E46 zhp sedan.....
😂😂😂 That's just the BMW stuff. Where's your lineup.
The best video explaining S63 in whole YT, and belive me I watched every of them as M6 owner.
Thank you! Gareth did a fantastic job turning an unexpected dissection of this F10 M5 into invaluable knowledge for the community.
Same here besides RKAUTO WERKS IN TEXAS THERE REALLY NOTHING ON IT
Dann kannst du mir verraten was es heisst antrieb gestört fehlzündung zylinder 8 ? Hab den fehler
The N/S63 is like the finest collaboration between all major German manufacturers. Take each brands greatest hits and distill them into one masterpiece.
Nowhere else will you find BMW’s coolant leaks & rod bearing failures, VW’s oil leaks & timing chain issues, Porsche’s bore scoring, and just general German calamity all in one place.
Hats off to you, BMW! 🍻
No lies detected 😂.
They sacrificed reliability to keep the economy afloat. Gotta keep german specialty mechanics in business. 😄
And to think they once made the best inline six ever, the M30. The S88 was great, too. Not anymore.
of courses with poor preventative maintenance you will experience and encounter major failures in both n/s63, depending how you treat the car you will also encounter major failures, i can’t speak much on the original n/s63 since i own a n63tu but i’ve seen both n63/tu last 100k and well over 100k without rod bearing problems or major coolant leaks, neither can i speak on the s63 because i have never owned it or had personal experience with it but in my eyes mainly anything before any technical update is complete garbage, you will face both major mechanical and electrical issues with both first gen n/s63, imo n/s63tu2/3 being the best in reliability with the proper preventative maintenance
@oemn63 all i know is that same year hellcats with a simple v8 supercharger setup are extremely reliable for the amount of abuse they get. i have x3 m40i and hesitate to buy any bmw v8 turbo cars. the b58 and s58 engines are so powerful bmw could really just stop using the v8s in 5 series and no one would complain.
The alusil block can absolutely be rehoned or even bored and repaired. As there’s more and more aging alusil blocks in the world, the tools and processes are getting more and more prolific, especially in Germany.
Check out M539’s channel investigating this very topic.
This block is a perfect candidate for repair, and would probably save a lot of money, depending on how much BMW is still discounting their short blocks.
Yeah this is such a strange sentiment in the US. There are shops that can machine, hone and properly expose Alusil blocks all over Europe. It is literally aluminum with silicone crystals in it. It machines like an aluminum block. The special requirements to finish the cylinder walls are a speciality hone/compound, and a nicer surface profilometer. It's not magic. The manufacturer of the alloy has extensive documentation for the tooling and processes. I think it's just fear or laziness from automotive machine shops here.
and BMW is in the business of selling complete engines, not offering refurbishing services. Shocker.
If you need Alusil work done in the US, call Peter at Partee Racing. They can work on these blocks without jumping straight to iron sleeves, or nikasil-ing your block.
My wife's E70 X5M has been excellent for us. She's put 100K miles on it since March 2020 when we bought it for $19,500 with 64K miles on it. I've done all the maintenance myself and spent more at FCP than I'd like to think about. However, the only unplanned maintenance was a new alternator at 97K miles. Other than that, it has never let us down. The same goes for my E60 M5, but I've only put 20K on that in the same time. These cars are fantastic, but they demand preventative maintenance.
We're almost on the same path. I went remote in 2020, bought a 13 X5M for $21k 83k miles, and did a tune up and battery to get it solid. 128k miles now with fairly persistent little things, but only one breakdown from the hpfp breaking (literally cracked at the mounting tab) 900 miles from home luckily 100 miles from our destination. But we've also done that trip multiple times both ways.
@surreaLinnovatioN they really are fantastic cars
125k on my f10 m5. Also been absolutely a joy. It's tuned, otherwise completely stock. Ran 5w40 from day one and oil changed at 4k intervals. Still on original injectors, rod bearings etc. oil analysis is great. Take care of it and it will take care of you. Trust me 🤝🏼.
The amount of coolant hoses will never get old
If you want all BMW engine problems of all the different BMW engines in one engine than is the N63 / S63 the right one for you😂
BTW great video as usually Gareth!
Shame really. Can't believe BMW didn't bring B-series engineering to their V8's
@@KM-ol5bs I find it funny that BMW's middle tier engine is the one that's actually the well engineered and well built one instead of their top of the line engine
The last Boss
@@KM-ol5bsThey did. S68…
@rj3075 polymer coated rod bearings?
I just finally finished valve cover gaskets, injectors, water pump, and some other stuff on my 2016 X5 50i. Watching this video was really cool…but also made me shiver thinking about how tight it was working on it and all the stuff I had to remove. 😂
It seems that auto manufacturers are relying on full-subframe drops more and more these days 🙄
My n63TU has 155K miles and still pushing!!! I treat her better than myself LOL only major thing was a radiator but everything else is regular maintenance/ wear and tear
I have a n63 with 190k miles and still going strong. I did the steam seals at around 70k miles, replaced the turbos at 120kmiles. Other than that nothing else other than normal maintenance.
shame reliable high mileage for these cars seems to be the exception not the standard.
Yes, and if you'd had a vehicle with identical performance and similar appearance from Toyota/Lexus you wouldn't have needed to do anything other than change the oil and other fluids on schedule.
@@frankmiller95 yes. The real comparison is the very reliable hellcat. Simple v8 supercharger(no crazy hot v turbo problems) , more power at 700hp and extremely reliable with constant abuse. I haven’t heard of major engine failures in hellcats, just minor stuff. Lots of high mileage hellcats. Biggest issue, inside/outside looks worse than any m5, being robbed/killed while driving it or it being stolen while parked.
These engines are not as bad as people say , these engines are super robust as long as you take care of it. I got my 2013 F10 M5 with 17k miles and it’s now at 40k, not one problem. Just run liquid moly, engine oil cleaner from FCP that can help protect the valve steam seals, also Lucas engine oil stabilizer is great for this platform of engine. Water wetter from Redline to help keep the coolant cool is also a plus to run here and is recommended for tuned S63’s of any technical update variant. As a 7 year bmw tech the best way to keep these engines happy is to actually care for it properly. Don’t wait on your services just take care of it and it will take care of you.
No offense, but are you seriously saying a car not breaking by 40k miles is reliable? My E60 M5 has 206k miles, I got it at 63k. Nothing even went wrong on my car until 83k miles. 40k miles almost seems like a joke, and I seriously hope it was.
😂 40k miles?
yeah you're about 60K miles away from the inevitable "replace any and everything rubber or plastic in the engine bay" 100K mile service! Wait for it.... When they are running good, they are hands down the Ultimate Driving Machine, but when they have significant or catastrophic problems, it can make your pride and joy money child, a worthless hunk of metal extremely fast unless you are able to open up your BIG wallet and get things fixed (this includes even if you DIY).
@@trizzuth34 my wife's 165K mile E70 X5M has been near flawless
40k miles?! Bro talk to us when you past 100k 😂
Hey I own an F10 LCI M5 Competition!!!! I've been looking forward to this! My car is at 120k. I love it!!!
I actually might have a leaky oil return cover, when I go full throttle I can smell oil. I already changed my PCV hoses.
I also run 5w-30 oil, I start driving right when I turn the car on, but I make sure to keep the load light and shift early until the oil is warmed up.
It is important for any F10/F0x M5/M6 owner, if you're driving in warm weather or driving hard make SURE the car is in SPORT PLUS MODE. The auxiliary water pumps run more and you will notice your oil temp stay near 200 instead of rising so much.
5w30 lol 5w40’is minimum It needs
Yeah same here, a lot of people leave the car idling at cold for 5-10mins, but correct way would be just wait 10secs, then just throw it in D and keep it extremely light and rpms lower than 2.2k.
The turbo oil return cover - we suspect - is the root of many oil-burning and leaking complaints on the N/S63. 💨
@@BulletsGarage the dealership uses 0w-30. Plus, the weight doesnt matter as much as the certification. I use Liqui Moly 5w30 Special Tec B Fe which conforms to the BMW LL 01 FE standard, which is needed for the S63.
Can confirm, n63tu in my x5 has been in the work shop more times then I can count.
When it’s running it’s a great torquey motor, when it’s not, it’s almost always gonna be expensive to fix.
Another informative episode with BMW guru Gareth!
Edit: There's a bmw engine shop in Germany which will re-hone and acid etch Alusil
Impossible. Throw the block away or use for a coffee table. 😅
@@TML34 not impossible. I know a shop which does it
@ hmmmm, interesting. I’ve never seen it done…successfully. Most try and sleeve the cylinders, also unsuccessfully. 😅
For a single jug off a porshe to be redone is 400$ plus shipping... For 1 cylinder not a whole engine. Its a nice idea, but a highly cost prohibited option compared to something like a replacement block or used block. They have to use bigger pistons too.
i believe the shop is H2motors, they have a youtube channel, didnt they rehone M539's S65 block?
De cat it - gets read of the heat much better + always use 10w 60 oil. One very important think to remember, it takes long time to warm it up, people are inpatient. Never rev it until its properly warmed up. Its an amazing engine, especially when it works 😅
Please do a series on the m5/6 s63tu like the m3 restoration!
Brilliant video. Probably some of the best info on the S63.
What amazing deep knowledge. I learned a lot. Thanks.
Thanks for this! at the moment I have a M340i but can't wait to upgrade to an F90 LCI. Build engines can run 900whp on pump gas! Almost Veyron power for 1/10th of the cost.
The LCI F90 is a handsome beast! Our friends over at @evolveautomotive in the UK have really showed the world how usable they can be at high power with some choice mods.
340i can make more power than m5 comp or any m5! B58 is better engine can do easy 1000whp and lighter chassis
B58 also sounds better
At 12min, block is “not reusable” due to cylinder scoring.
Why not steel sleeve it, impossible or too costly?
@FCP Euro Media great video btw, very informative!
as always thank you for sharing all your great knowledge about bmw technology, nice video !
You can bore these engines and then hone with Sunnen an-30 paste. I did it by hand with a drill to one cylinder on my e60 m5 with no issues..
tks FCP for thoses very interesting explanation for taking the time to show us how thoses engines work.
Thanks! Glad you liked the video!
I still have my original 2001 E39 3.0 with a stage II Dinan with 250k on it and it still runs like a dream. The 3.0 inline six M54 is one of the best engines BMW has ever made. I’d love to have a F90 2022 LCI but the design and upkeep costs I don’t think make sense for me. I would likely only put less than 3k miles on it annually but even then there are so many issues with the warranty cost after 40k miles or 4 yrs I don’t think it’s actually worth it. I’ll keep researching maybe the LCI’s are a bit more reliable after 75k-100k miles.
Makes the S85 look reliable :)
It is a reliable engine. B.E bearings & good throttle actuators & the car will run amazing, idiots just rev cold high reving motors. Now the smg that comes with the cars can cause more trouble
Very informative video. Thank you!
Great topic to cover indeed! Thank you guys!
what year s63 is best to buy ?
Great video. This engine is probably gone by lack of maintenance. These engines go bad due to bad lubrication. Otherwise it’s a pretty good engine. It just need an owner that keeps up with maintenance and does good warmup and cool down of the engine.
Depending on the version of the N63/S63 yes. The updated versions are far and away the most reliable.
Yup
so post 2016?
Thank you for this video I have a 2014 m5
Thanks for watching! We love the F10 M5. The more we can help keep on the road - the better 😊
Can we get a video on the S63Tu?
Super informative. I do have a leak somewhere in my S63TU in my 2017 X5M. Not quite sure where to begin. Don't see smoke, don't see puddles under car so not sure where it is leaking. Hope it doesn't look like that engine with the black sludge.
Could be valve cover gaskets. But could also be other things…lotsa places to leak, unfortunately. Lower oil pan gasket is easy to do. Upper oil pan gasket…not so much. Might as well do rod bearings while you’re in there lol
Valve cover, that's exactly what's going on with my F85
I know I sound crazy 🥴🥴🥴 can you do this kind of engine break down for the B9 S4 motor. I would love to learn more about it
We've got a lot in the works for the B9 platform. We hope to get more B9 content up soon!
Great material👏
I have only one small problem with my S63 - the engine seems to wave when driving at low revs at a constant speed or when driving downhill, under load there is no such effect. Maybe a hint?
Beautiful video, really great knowledge being showed
But 5min in I seen enough to have me look away from this motor
I didn’t even finish the video I was so disappointed in bmw
Looks like the FCP Euro office just got a nice new coffee table.
great video
One engine to have them all!
(Technical faults and issues, I mean) ;D
Very good video! Great information about the weep hole - my S63 seem to have an oil leak which would look like rear main bearing seal, but now I know what to check first :)
Looking good Gareth, lost a good bit of weight!
Please make video on Mercedes M177 engine
I just did plugs and coils on my n63. Felt great when my drive train fault went away. Now I'm not sure I'll sleep tonight. 😢
Vry wonderful critical demo of bmw S63 again doze questionary V8 rear sided cylinder's turn out to b problematic V8 compact size is always quoted but longevity of rear cylinders it depends but vry great vid uploaded about bmw S63 engine head fuel lines turbo & of course issues relating to timing of S63 engine
Great video!
I notice you mention that the wider piston skirt is the loaded side and faces down/out which makes sense. However all pistons are identical (i.e. one part number for all 8) with the same arrow on top the piston, to be installed facing forward. That means that one bank will be installed with the wider skirt facing down/out and one bank will be installed with the wider skirt facing up/in? Is this correct?
Great video brother im ookking at an M850 20’ not scared of the n63tu any more
Have seen plenty F85 X5Ms with loose oil pump chains.
Since the S63 is no longer produced, can you talk about the S68?
That F&F clip edit had me dying 🤣
Cylinders 7/8 would be likely last to get oil. Perhaps this situation happened over time until clearances got so large, the rod bearings spun.
I still want to buy one lol
Awesome video! Thanks!
How often would you change the rod bearing on a 523 hp n63tu3
Excellent
Great video!
Could you rebore it and fit new liner's or would it not be possible and or worth it
Excellent video. Very informative and don’t thing there is another video out there that is as complete as this one. I currently have a 2020 X5M Comp with 44K miles that I bought brand new. 5K oil changes its entire life, never burns oil or coolant. Never been tuned either. For the past year I’ve been dealing with misfire in cylinder 6 only during cold starts or extended idling. Once I start driving zero misfires. Already changed LPFP, HPFP, all spark plugs and coil packs. I even changed out the injector for cylinder 6 and the issue remains. Some days it’s better and some days worse. Only idling or cold starts. Any ideas what else I should look at?
Engines need 4 things to run, air, fuel, spark, and compression. I would do a smoke test and see if there is a vacuum leak near cylinder 6. If its hit or miss it doesnt sound like a compression issue, which is good. If you have a scan tool see if you can monitor live data for knock, misfires, during a cold start, and record the data. I would also check your battery and see if it has sufficient charge, you might think im crazy but BMWs are very sensitive about their batteries.
I will give some insight since I own one of these engines and fix them for a living, the coolant reservoir is known to leak on the driver side, the side that you’re having issues with, some piss, some leak enough to not notice at all, you replace the expansion tank, some never leak again some leak a few months later. Likely you have a coolant leak on that side. Even if it’s already been fixed, check the connector for the injectors and coils on that whole entire bank 5-8 it’s a known issue that coolant contamination corrodes the connector bad enough you have electrical issues. Check your cam solenoid connectors for contamination as well. This specific leak has hydrolocked peoples engines, shorted the injectors, shorted the coils, arcs spark plugs, and ruins the engine harness, if this is what’s going on the damage may have already been done and you’re now down on compression, if compression is good and all of which checks out(no coolant leak from reservoir + all your new parts+ no contaminated connectors (they will look crusty and corroded) you could have a bad dme. Sorry for so much info but the expansion reservoir leak wrecks havoc in so many ways some issues are immediate and some can happen long term and it all comes from there
@@the_first_resort940 Thanks for the info. I'm familiar with the coolant expansion tank leak that happens on the M5's. I have a X5M and the tank is located on the side so doesn't have that issue. I've also pulled all the plugs, coil packs and all looks clean. Even the plugs didn't look bad and was consistent across all cylinders. I checked all of the wiring visually but didn't see anything that looks concerning. Does bmw sell portions of the coilpack harness or is it just the whole engine harness?
@@clonetrooper576 Def not the battery since i have it on a trickle charger almost every night. I know these are a finicky when the battery is low so I always keep it topped off. I can see during live data that #6 misfire counter keeps going up but eventually goes back to zero. Once i start driving the counter stays at 0. Is it possible that fouling injector in other cylinders cause #6 to misfire? I'm wondering if its worth wild to change all 8 injectors at this point.
Did you program the new injector?
I’m buying a 2015 m5 silverstone please tell me what to look for upon inspection and what to ask about when it come to work that has been done
if you can't get a pre purchase inspection or seller won't allow it, don't buy it.
Check the transmission, check for oil leaks, check suspension, check tech, look for accidents, and make sure it has no CELs
Great video! I was under the impression that the S63TU is also in the F85 X5M and F86 X6M, or would that be a different S63 variant?
I am curious why you don't sleeve these motors and just change to the iron sleeve piston/ring set and easily reuse the block
Cant sleeve an aluminum block. Heat differences.
Is this f10 engine reliable. I've been thinking about buying an M5 with this engine ?
@3:00 OMG that v is an oil pool.
Simply amazing!!!!!!!
Where is your shop
wasnt it the x6 that debuted the s63 engine?
Plz make a video like this on the E60 M5
Wait a second…29:22…the intake and exhaust sprockets come as the same color? No way…my intake cam sprockets are black and the exhausts are a bright orange…I assumed they were color coded to know which was which…are they REALLY both black to start? 😳
Very interesting and informative
Thank you Garath..Amazing video... I have an F10M5 with this engine which was replaced at 53,000ks after a rod bearing failure. Sadly, now I have little long term faith in it and apart from very regular oil service and careful driving, I don't know how to ensure long life. BTW, what is your recomendation for oil grade. I live in a very moderate temperature area, no cold or very high temperatures.
The dealer will recommend you 0w-30. Most enthusiasts recommend 0w-40 or 5w-40, some say 5w-50. If you're running stock rod bearings I would go for either 0w-40 or 5w-30. I personally use Liqui Moly Special Tec B Fe 5w-30 and have had no issues, i also do drive my car daily and sometimes do short trips at low throttle, so I don't need too thick oil.
I have a doubt why don’t they use cylinder sleeves?, I’m new to indetail mechanic stuff 😅
Can i please have the block
Great video as always
Would you be inclined to a video about S63TU4
Do you know if the turbo oil line return cover was updated to not leak as bad in the latest S63?
I saw another video that showed that the S63 engine block has 8 bolt main bearing caps. The mains are also cross bolted from each side of the block.
So the engine blocks are different between the N63 you show and the S63?
Why can't you re-sleeve the block, with iron sleeves, like most aluminum blocks?
So yhe block is junk junk, or decided on new engine or rebuild junk? Can you line the bores?
Seeing the S63 as it comes out of the chassis gives me nightmares. I had a plastic coolant tee break on my R53 Mini Cooper which cost me an engine, so I make plastic cooling system components maintenance items to replace before they break. I shudder to think how many hoses and fittings I would need to replace if I owned an S63 powered car to “bullet proof” it for maybe 10 years.
Hi. Can you please give us some tips for removing the S63 engine by pulling it from the top? Since all of us don’t have electrical jack.
Thanks for the video.
you have to pull it from the bottom the suspension is connected
Is it the metallurgy of the block that prevents it being cut and sleeved?
It has alusil inside the sleeves. So it’s not like a normal engine.
@@justinv6132no the entire engine block is Alusil. The bores are then honed to remove the aluminum and expose just the silicon.
@@reginaldbowls7180 interesting thanks for the info
How similar is this to the n63 tu3 the 523 hp one and if able are you able to breakdown one?
crankshaft looks like it can be machined for +0.50mm rod bearings. same with the engine block, definetly can be sleeved. with no warranty of course.
6:22 long pause…. Understandably :)
Silicon, not silicone. The block can be chemical treated while honing, and reused.
That engine is made of chocolate 🍫
Sounds tasty!
Hard to imagine that all these "problems" and "potential" problems or shortcomings are not the result of planned obsolescence. I mean look at all those hoses, how small the crankshaft/conrod journals and bearings are, and how fragile/inadequate the gaskets are . . . . and the list goes on.
40:43 get the cleaning Zamboni out!
The primary problem you're going to have on these engines is the driver. Joking. Just get one with an S63TU4 engine, where BMW switched from using Alusil to plasma coating.
No mention of the beautiful e70 x5m with pre TU smh
Is this problem on 2016 s63
how many miles were put onto this engine before the block got ruined
he said this engine ran 100000 miles
Been smelling coolant and oil lately. Was hoping it’s just the cracked PCV hose and turbo coolant lines.
Now this video has me paranoid about that coolant crossover and the oil drain in the valley 😂
I have a 2020 X5 M50i I just hit about 60k miles so do I have the N63TU? What can I do now to prevent some of this? I have done a bunch of preventative maintenance recommended from this channel already, any info would be appreciated.
if i owned such vehicle, i would change oil every 5k miles with motul products. I would also use the motul engine clean product every other oil change. I would use their fuel additives periodically as well. At 60k miles i’m not exactly sure what needs to be done but I would think spark plugs, change coolant in high and low temp circuits. Inspect coolant expansion tanks, inspect for any oil leaks. Possibly look into lower temp thermostat options if you live in a warmer climate or drive the vehicle at high load frequently.
I believe your year model would be N63B44T3
Commonly known as N63TU3
@@expofcam thanks for the super helpful advice, I have changed the front differential fluid, transfer case fluid and rear differential fluid. I might re due the transfer case fluid because I didn’t not open the valve before the job. My vehicle has about 62k on the clock and I’m am doing my best to have it last me at least 4 years.
@@highendtrends3508 most definitely that’s good you serviced those components as well, i think it will keep running strong. What do you have planned after the 4 years?
@ I just graduated from college and I took an accelerated EMT program to get my patient care hours and then I’m applying to med school. By then I should be in my residency and making some decent money.
Fcp euro are the goats
And to sum it up these motors need frequent oil changes😅 do your oil changes
Listen to how many times he says fed off oil or fed from oil pressure that should give you a hint of how frequently you should he changing your oil
0:48 this is not an M5
Such a great contribution.
@ thank you!
😂@@hexagonosaurus5848
Check engine lights alllllllllll day. Every day.
My simple mind says... So Inline 6 it is then... No dream M6 for me
Why did I click on this video I was starting to think the f10 m5 might be reliable and perfect car for me
Don't fight the feeling!
@ it have 95k miles should I buy it?
Guys, which is the most reliable less stressful performance BMW engine?😢
everything M before 2004 should be ok.
@caliwator thanks
@@caliwatornot true at all e46 is a horrible M car that has prolific issues lmfao the best bmw engines at the moment are s58's and b58's that not only can be reliable but also powerful at the same time.
@@MistaaFrosty what is wrong with e46? I thought they where reliable. E39 m5 is really good
@ e46 m cars have horrible problems. rod bearings, vanos, valve adjustment, key lock tumblers, rear subframe issues the list is even higher when you get the SMG trans lol.
0:48 “f10 m5” *shows 550i lmao
I love reading comments from fellow enthusiasts who say these engines are not bad and just need preventative maintenance. LISTEN, replacing all the stuff around the block is not maintenance. THEY ARE BADDD.
bullsh* the S63TU is a reliable motor.