How to Apply Wood Veneer Using Contact Cement
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 1 окт 2024
- Jon Peters gives us a detailed step-by-step guide on applying wood veneer to a substrate using contact cement. #WoodVeneer #WoodVeneerSheets #ContactCement
Jon Peters account - / @jonpetersarthome
Subscribe to our channel -
/ @glveneer
Veneer Gallery - glveneer.com/e...
Live Edge Slabs - glveneer.com/e...
Paper back veneers do not take water based stain or pre stain. I did it with bubbled veneer. What is the proper way to stain paper backed applied with contact cement. Thank you kindly
now THIS is woodworking music
Paper winner kahan per milega
Good content. Thanks and best wishes!
So when you apply the veneer to the board after two coats, the second coat is dry when applied?
Just finished a project successfully due to your detailed video. Thank you so much!
Question: Is it possible to use veneer to cover a formica bar? We have an ugly black faux granite bar in our basement and are not ready to invest in tearing out the bar yet.
Great lesson on applying Veneer Jon!
Thank you for the help!
Im trying to cover the center panel of a cabinet door and that way of cutting the edge will not work for me. I dont want to damage the moulded frame of the doors. Any ideas? Im having trouble getting a perfect cut to fit.
If using birch ply ? Do I need to Vaneer both sides of the ply ? I’ve heard if using mdf you need to as it can warp. Thanks and great video
Why no J roller?
How do you clean the roller?
Is it better to use contact cement or wood glue like titebond?
Great tips!
Assuming paperback veneer?
Then you said it.😳
Total newbie here with a dumb question. So you let both coats of contact cement dry on both the substrate and the veneer and then stick them together? How does it hold ? Or do you apply the veneer while the contact cement is still wet on the veneer? I know it’s a dumb question so please be kind in your reply. Thank you!
Yes you let them both dry. It will only stick to itself 😊
I have a roll of veneer for a large surface, does it need to sit out flat for some time before I use it?? Thanks.
That can’t hurt!
Why not the roller? too strong and will leave impression in wood? all the other videos for putting other laminate on says to use roller.... even the manufactures....
Generally a roller will not apply enough pressure to secure the bond needed with natural wood veneer. Point pressure is required to ensure a strong and tight bond. There is also a consideration here in regards to the finish. A loose bond will show after a hard finish is applied in the form of bubbling and cracking. Laminates are definitely more safe when using a roller. This is the common approach. They are more rigid and generally thicker than most natural veneers. Hope this answers your question!
I know this is from 11 months ago, but in case some else comes looking. J rollers and rolling pins are too wide. So whatever force you exert gets distributed across the wide rollers. But if you use a 1" wall paper roller (or similar) that you can transfer all your force through the 1" wide roller. So it's not the roller that's the problem, it's the *wide* rollers that are the problem.
RUclips
I had always been taught that you need to veneer the opposing side as well - with a cheap backer veneer. Have you found no need to do that? The danger -- to my understanding -- being that without balanced veneer on top and bottom, the substrate will eventually bow. Curious. Thanks:)
Depends on the application. If it's an end panel for a cabinet, only one side is necessary. If it's exposed to air on both sides like a shelf, you would veneer both sides.
I'm confused on the backer veneer too. Does the backer mean literally on the back of the veneer itself, or the opposite side of the substrate, in order to put equal tension on both sides of the veneered surface?
@@cassierobinson2273 it would be the opposite side of the substrate…. And yes to balance the plywood out or otherwise warping occurs when only applied to one side.