Thanks for you video. Very helpful. I just did mine without the spacer. Welded it on 81 cm and cut of about 1 cm from the gearboxtube. That was worn out anyway so now I,ve got the spines reaching all the way in. Works perfectly.
I did this fix on my 4.4i and the bell housing on the 4.4i is different. This means that the hex bolt heads were coming too close to the bell housing with the spacer installed. Instead I used higher grade internal hex bolts. Also, on my 4.4i it would have been impossible to install the shaft if I had made it 30"long. I went for 29 13/16". 1/16" more might have worked but I did not want to risk having to disconnect the diff or the TC. For a few days I ran the car with only three spacers on the bolts as the Russian made spacer took a few days to arrive. I guess that source is no longer an option....
That's awesome, the good thing is you can find the perfect length and test it out before welding the spline tip on the driveshaft. As for the spacer, I ordered it from Urkaine, since it's no longer available from Russia.
You can put a bit of grease. A/C drains just above the splines. Some people move the drains slightly, some use grease on the splines. Personally, I didn't find the rust to be significant, rather just light surface rust. I just sprayed the splines with ospho (phosphoric acid). I'm not worried about much rust, especially how deep the splines go after this fix (almost 2 inches instead of 0.75).
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Very nice. Thank you for your contribution to helping owners keep these tanks on the road.
Nice instructions. Did this also couple of year ago, but without the spacer and welded at it's spot on full lenght.
Thanks for you video. Very helpful.
I just did mine without the spacer. Welded it on 81 cm and cut of about 1 cm from the gearboxtube. That was worn out anyway so now I,ve got the spines reaching all the way in. Works perfectly.
That's a great job! The spacer is very hard to find.
super educational video,Thank You!
I did this fix on my 4.4i and the bell housing on the 4.4i is different. This means that the hex bolt heads were coming too close to the bell housing with the spacer installed. Instead I used higher grade internal hex bolts.
Also, on my 4.4i it would have been impossible to install the shaft if I had made it 30"long. I went for 29 13/16". 1/16" more might have worked but I did not want to risk having to disconnect the diff or the TC.
For a few days I ran the car with only three spacers on the bolts as the Russian made spacer took a few days to arrive. I guess that source is no longer an option....
That's awesome, the good thing is you can find the perfect length and test it out before welding the spline tip on the driveshaft.
As for the spacer, I ordered it from Urkaine, since it's no longer available from Russia.
Fantastic ❤
Great video! What is the part number for that spacer, and the new rubber o-ring grommet?
The spacer is aftermarket, no part number, unfortunately. Check realoem.com for other parts, or let me know the time in the video you're looking at.
Is the measurement the same for 2008 e70 x5
I don’t think so!
Where i can get that splines part? Have u got part number?
You can get it on eBay, lots of sellers.
Should the splines have some sort of lubricant before fitting together?
You can put a bit of grease. A/C drains just above the splines. Some people move the drains slightly, some use grease on the splines. Personally, I didn't find the rust to be significant, rather just light surface rust. I just sprayed the splines with ospho (phosphoric acid). I'm not worried about much rust, especially how deep the splines go after this fix (almost 2 inches instead of 0.75).
On high speeds do the shaft need balancing? Or do you face any vibrations?
No vibrations. It was already balanced. Changing the end won't affect it.
funny i have a 325ix from 1986 and a x5 from 2005 and the booth have the same wake axle