When i had to fix the 47 Chevy I bought in 1966 i adjusted the length of the rod for the neutral range movement. I did not have a manual but it worked as i studied the linkage and realized what should be happening with the neutral gate movement. I took it out for spin and was laughing out loud for real when I slipped that old baby into second gear for the first time then third. Oh what a feeling. I only paid $35 for it, the motor ran like a top but it only had 1st and reverse gears. The owner had no idea what to do. And i had fixed and driving in about 30 minutes. I was so proud. My first car and my first repair, I was 15. D
I have a 47 stylemaster that just developed a prblm (was working fine til today) with the 3 speed on the column shifter or linkage. It's the part of the linkage that's under the hood on the column. It doesnt catch anthing to move the rods to put it in 2nd or 3rd . 1st & reverse works great but something doesnt catch 2nd & 3rd . So, im on here looking for a video or info to try to see how the linkage is supposed to work when working properly, so i can fix it myself. Ideas?
@@billdickens1 Your issues sounds just like the problem i had. The lever between 1st and reverse moved back and forth in the neutral gate. I looked at the linkage on the transmission and could see the neutral movement did nothing. the rods wiggled but now trans levers moved. Then I studied the rods under the hood to observe the shift levers movement and the action down on the shift linkage. I could see clearly that the lever up in the 1st & reverse gate position would move the arm to the transmission up and down. However when the shifter was in the 2nd & 3rd position and tried to move the lever down on the shift column I could see the lever move in both directions. But when i observed the arm travel of the link on the transmission nothing moved! Here i found the lower connecting rod appeared to be too short. If i helped the shift lever it would click into a new position. I went back up the under hood shift linkage and saw that arm was made so you could remove a cotter pin, pull the rod out of the linkage and rotate the head to in effect lengthen the shift rod down to the transmission. It seems wear and tear over the years had gotten so sloppy it could not move the shift arm in the transmission, I length the rod about 3/16ths and tested it. As i recall the shift lever on the transmission now made a big movement when simple moving the shift front the 1-R gate to the 2-3 gate. that movement changed the position the larger shift lever inside the transmission. So now when pushed forward and pulling up for 2nd gear shift the lever moved both shift arms. Pushing forward moved the smaller arm, then pulling up moved the bigger arm. And the transmission shifted and held in gear. Moving back to neutral only moved the big arm, continuing down engaged 3rd gear as long as I did not pull the lever back but held it in the forward position. As I studied the shift linkage I realized the side plate on the transmission did not work as one would think. The side cover plate that held the shift rods to the gears was a mechanism in its own right. it was not a simple two levers 4 positions. As later models are. The larger arm is the gear shift arm. The smaller arm is a remote gate changer. Moving the shift lever inside the car thru the neutral gate is what changed which gear set the larger arm is activated on. Once I understood this logic the adjustment was easy to see and the short arm linkage had to longer to fully engage the 2-3 gate from the push pull motion on the shift lever. I hope this helps you know what you need to do. it is stupid simple once you see how the tranny is shifted by the side plate mechanism. However, I also learned a cool trick. I took a side plate off a 53 Chevy 3 speed manual which aligned in all ways to the 47 Trans. Its arms were shifted the logic way one arm two gears each. The neutral gate movement was now up in the column shifter. Which worked but not so smooth. I eventually went to a Floor Shifter and had a ball. You can eliminate the whole issue that way too. I am sure you can get all your gears and when you do and you hit second gear flying down the road, you laugh out loud and think of me nearly 60 years ago doing exactly the same way. Dennis Let me know please. Murpheyd@aol.com
@@DennisMurphey . Thats for taking your time & trying to help me out. I havnt worked on it yet, but i think I'll be able to get back to it maybe at the end of the week. Hopefully i can figure it out. Hopefully this is the last of the mechanical things to work on (for a while anyway), so i can start on the paint... & yes, drive it some!! :) :)
This is the problem I am having with my 40 Chevy 4 door Special Deluxe and so glad I found this video. The bushing is worn out has drop out so I will be installing a new one NOW that I have found this video. I also learned a lot form your other videos, so thank you lots Mr. The Jayhawker.
Thanks to this video I discovered that my shifter linkage was turned backwards on the forward most linkage! Now I finally have second gear! Thanks! Now, if I can figure out why it’s popping out of first gear when going down the hill…. I think it may be a transmission issue. Thanks again for sharing your wisdom on this!
That's great! I'm glad you've got it figgered oot. Popping out of gear issues generally go in this order: 1: bad syncros, 2: low on oil, 3: linkage adjustment. Have fun!
Jayhawker, I have the 1940 Chevrolet shop manual and it calls for 1-5/16" when positioning the mast jacket. All of the other measurements were as you had indicated. Thanks for the great video!
Good content, as usual. Fun ending! Just FYI... I think that L bracket that was in the way on the shift linage bracket is the mount for the optional reverse light switch. There's a spring loaded switch that mounts on it so when you shift to reverse the linkage pushes the switch to light the backup lamp on the rear bumper valence. I have one on my '48 but it has never been adjusted properly.
Thank you so much for this! In doing this I have discovered that my shifter bushing is gone! There’s nothing left of it, so there’s no wonder it’s difficult to shift! I will be ordering one soon! Also I’m looking forward to the upholstery and interior stuff. The Mrs. and I were shopping today for upholstery at a local shop and found some for our 48 that we want to use.
I feel like after watching your videos you're truly more on the ball than I am when it comes to the need of a 48 Chevy. I sent you an email, please let me know if you got
I love the old movie clips. If I were to ship you my '47, it would arrive about 100 lbs lighter due to rust falling off! I say it has an iron deficiency and chrome disease.....
Ive got a 48 pontiac torpedo sedan coupe aka the fast back 2 door but im trying to run a chevy 3 speed on my 1940 nash simce cant get anything for the original nash 3 speed with external over drive to bad it runs but just wamt to drive it thanks for the pics its going to be fun trying to get it to work i had a 40 chevy but sold it
Can you share a picture of what it looks like down below at the transmission? My clutch adjustment rod is hitting my linkage after I changed my master cylinder.
Hello Jayhawker, I am working on a 1940 Chevy with a working vacuum assist. I found the original bushing had come apart and allowed the lever to drop out and jam the linkage. I was able to get it back into place and was able to get all three gears. I followed your video to get it to that point. This was done at the owners house. I checked the shift lever height to the steering wheel it and it measured 2 1/2 inches. I have since replaced the bushing. I do not have the recommended shift lever to steering wheel height, and the only way to get it to shift all three gears and get reverse is to adjust the smaller rod to the bottom of the threaded area. What am I missing ??
Good informative video.I'll probably be pulling the drive shaft out of my 1940 Chevy, Special Deluxe, 4 dr Sport Sedan in the near future to paint it nice & shiny. So, this video was very helpful. I put the shaft in the car, after a complete disassemble, back in the mid 1980s so I'll have to go back to the manual (along with your video) to reinstall -- memory is a bit fuzzy. One thing I'm concerned about is making sure that when the gear shift is in neutral, the linkages to the transmission also have the gears in neutral. Also, can I install the firewall grommet when I reinstall the shaft without having to remove it later when carpet is installed? Or, should I just wait to place the grommet at the time of carpet installation? Another question: I'm re-installing the radiator. What was between the car frame & radiator frame is questionable. Installation kits from vendors agree on the two bolts, washers, & nuts. However, they don't agree on what padding/spacers go along with them. I have some pads for it & the original metal plate that fits along with them. I'm thinking that I could attach the brace rod (from radiator to firewall) & just add what 's needed to bring the radiator up until the rod is level. Do you have any info or suggestions on that? Glad to see you're over the UMOYOT. Hope you are now rested. Loved the clip at the end but I won't be riding the rails with my old jalopy.
Usually carpets kits do not require that you disassemble the mechanics of a car and have cutouts to accommodate the steering column so you should be fine depending on what the makers of your carpet do. The most serious it should get apart from seat removal is popping pedals and the starter push button off. As for the radiator, I take note of what was in underneath as far as shims and rubber etc. What you put under the radiator support is going to effect the alignment of the front fenders and inner fenders. If you have no idea, just start with a thin piece of rubber between the frame and the support. Most likely it will be ok, but if you need to adjust for body alignment later you can slip some shims in.
@@TheJayhawker Thanks for the feedback. I did mean to say steering column, don't know why I said drive shaft -- oh well. I know that other stuff connects to the radiator but was narrowly focused on situating the radiator "just right." I recently cleaned up the inner fenders & covered them with a rust encapsulator from Eastwood Company. Also did the support panels that connect with the grill etc. So, thanks for the reminder to keep things lose until I get them all aligned. I remember offhand that you were doing something like this in one of the videos & cautioned to get an upper bolt in place first. I'll have to pull that up for re-viewing when I'm ready. Thanks again. Keep doing what you're doing. Greatly appreciated!
Does your '48 still have the vacuum-assisted shift? Mine did not. I also had an issue with interference between the shifter lever on the transmission and the clutch linkage, which I solved by drilling a hole to move the linkage attachment closer to the trans. Made for a bit less mechanical advantage but it worked. At the time the only manual I could get was on microfilm and I couldn't go to the library every time I had a question. Later got a paper shop manual, figured out the correct way to do the adjustment, and reset it. Sometimes with old cars you just have to "fake it till you make it" !
No, this one does not have the vacuum assist on it anymore either. One of those things that may have made it slightly more comfortable to drive, but wasn't at all necessary. "fake it till you make it," I have based my entire life on those words. lol, just kidding, well sort of.
A friend is having problems adjusting the shift linkage on his 3 on the tree 39 buick as you stated it is all alone. As there is a cable to the trans. I would like to help him with a pic of the linkage you tube won't let me print it from your vidio and if you can throw any tips this way about the little bump to align it would help. When he told me that you have to put it in second to do it I was floored as I always knew n n n thanks for listening. Burton Comensky
Hello good morning. I have a 51 chevy styleline deluxe 4dr sedan. 3 on 3. Steering column shifting. 3sp manual transmission enclosed shaft, close drive. I'm looking for complete rebuild kit. Please help me were can I find it. The same transmission that you have on the book you showed on video 📹
Quick question. I have a 49 Chevy. I got it running but once I when for a test drive 3rd gear pops out. Any recommendations? I have 2 other transmission I can replace with. What would I be looking for to make sure I’m putting a good on as I would hate to replace it if nothing is wrong and I just need to adjust something.
Is there a commom problem wit ha 1941 chevy coupe that pops out of 3rd gear sometimes? Is it possible that the adjustment is out or more commonly do you think it needs a new transmission?
most likely the brass synchronizers are worn out, I think they are available at the fillingstation.com. I would rebuild it if you want to ship it to me.
This car originally had vacuum assist but it is missing. Vacuum assist was a simple bolt-on affair onto the outside of the transmission and nothing more. It was very common that once the vacuum assembly started to leak it was simply removed. The transmission is the same, with or without it.
When i had to fix the 47 Chevy I bought in 1966 i adjusted the length of the rod for the neutral range movement. I did not have a manual but it worked as i studied the linkage and realized what should be happening with the neutral gate movement. I took it out for spin and was laughing out loud for real when I slipped that old baby into second gear for the first time then third. Oh what a feeling. I only paid $35 for it, the motor ran like a top but it only had 1st and reverse gears. The owner had no idea what to do. And i had fixed and driving in about 30 minutes. I was so proud. My first car and my first repair, I was 15. D
$35 wow
I have a 47 stylemaster that just developed a prblm (was working fine til today) with the 3 speed on the column shifter or linkage. It's the part of the linkage that's under the hood on the column. It doesnt catch anthing to move the rods to put it in 2nd or 3rd . 1st & reverse works great but something doesnt catch 2nd & 3rd . So, im on here looking for a video or info to try to see how the linkage is supposed to work when working properly, so i can fix it myself. Ideas?
@@billdickens1 Your issues sounds just like the problem i had. The lever between 1st and reverse moved back and forth in the neutral gate. I looked at the linkage on the transmission and could see the neutral movement did nothing. the rods wiggled but now trans levers moved. Then I studied the rods under the hood to observe the shift levers movement and the action down on the shift linkage. I could see clearly that the lever up in the 1st & reverse gate position would move the arm to the transmission up and down. However when the shifter was in the 2nd & 3rd position and tried to move the lever down on the shift column I could see the lever move in both directions. But when i observed the arm travel of the link on the transmission nothing moved! Here i found the lower connecting rod appeared to be too short. If i helped the shift lever it would click into a new position. I went back up the under hood shift linkage and saw that arm was made so you could remove a cotter pin, pull the rod out of the linkage and rotate the head to in effect lengthen the shift rod down to the transmission. It seems wear and tear over the years had gotten so sloppy it could not move the shift arm in the transmission, I length the rod about 3/16ths and tested it. As i recall the shift lever on the transmission now made a big movement when simple moving the shift front the 1-R gate to the 2-3 gate. that movement changed the position the larger shift lever inside the transmission. So now when pushed forward and pulling up for 2nd gear shift the lever moved both shift arms. Pushing forward moved the smaller arm, then pulling up moved the bigger arm. And the transmission shifted and held in gear. Moving back to neutral only moved the big arm, continuing down engaged 3rd gear as long as I did not pull the lever back but held it in the forward position. As I studied the shift linkage I realized the side plate on the transmission did not work as one would think. The side cover plate that held the shift rods to the gears was a mechanism in its own right. it was not a simple two levers 4 positions. As later models are. The larger arm is the gear shift arm. The smaller arm is a remote gate changer. Moving the shift lever inside the car thru the neutral gate is what changed which gear set the larger arm is activated on. Once I understood this logic the adjustment was easy to see and the short arm linkage had to longer to fully engage the 2-3 gate from the push pull motion on the shift lever. I hope this helps you know what you need to do. it is stupid simple once you see how the tranny is shifted by the side plate mechanism. However, I also learned a cool trick. I took a side plate off a 53 Chevy 3 speed manual which aligned in all ways to the 47 Trans. Its arms were shifted the logic way one arm two gears each. The neutral gate movement was now up in the column shifter. Which worked but not so smooth. I eventually went to a Floor Shifter and had a ball. You can eliminate the whole issue that way too. I am sure you can get all your gears and when you do and you hit second gear flying down the road, you laugh out loud and think of me nearly 60 years ago doing exactly the same way. Dennis Let me know please. Murpheyd@aol.com
@@sategllib2191 And it ran like a top!
@@DennisMurphey . Thats for taking your time & trying to help me out. I havnt worked on it yet, but i think I'll be able to get back to it maybe at the end of the week. Hopefully i can figure it out. Hopefully this is the last of the mechanical things to work on (for a while anyway), so i can start on the paint... & yes, drive it some!! :) :)
This is the problem I am having with my 40 Chevy 4 door Special Deluxe and so glad I found this video. The bushing is worn out has drop out so I will be installing a new one NOW that I have found this video. I also learned a lot form your other videos, so thank you lots Mr. The Jayhawker.
You're welcome, thanks for watching!
Thanks to this video I discovered that my shifter linkage was turned backwards on the forward most linkage! Now I finally have second gear! Thanks!
Now, if I can figure out why it’s popping out of first gear when going down the hill…. I think it may be a transmission issue.
Thanks again for sharing your wisdom on this!
That's great! I'm glad you've got it figgered oot. Popping out of gear issues generally go in this order: 1: bad syncros, 2: low on oil, 3: linkage adjustment. Have fun!
Jayhawker, I have the 1940 Chevrolet shop manual and it calls for 1-5/16" when positioning the mast jacket. All of the other measurements were as you had indicated. Thanks for the great video!
Good content, as usual. Fun ending! Just FYI... I think that L bracket that was in the way on the shift linage bracket is the mount for the optional reverse light switch. There's a spring loaded switch that mounts on it so when you shift to reverse the linkage pushes the switch to light the backup lamp on the rear bumper valence. I have one on my '48 but it has never been adjusted properly.
Thank you so much for this! In doing this I have discovered that my shifter bushing is gone! There’s nothing left of it, so there’s no wonder it’s difficult to shift! I will be ordering one soon!
Also I’m looking forward to the upholstery and interior stuff. The Mrs. and I were shopping today for upholstery at a local shop and found some for our 48 that we want to use.
Appreciate the effort you put into these videos. Great job.
Thanks!
I am going to try this on my 42. Thanks, Mr Jayhawker.
I feel like after watching your videos you're truly more on the ball than I am when it comes to the need of a 48 Chevy. I sent you an email, please let me know if you got
Hey Jay. Good video. I enjoyed it. Thanks for sharing 🍁👍.👍
I love the old movie clips. If I were to ship you my '47, it would arrive about 100 lbs lighter due to rust falling off! I say it has an iron deficiency and chrome disease.....
sounds like a project I would REALLY enjoy sending out invoices for...
Ive got a 48 pontiac torpedo sedan coupe aka the fast back 2 door but im trying to run a chevy 3 speed on my 1940 nash simce cant get anything for the original nash 3 speed with external over drive to bad it runs but just wamt to drive it thanks for the pics its going to be fun trying to get it to work i had a 40 chevy but sold it
Great video!!!
Great video just got a 48 fleetmaster the gears get stuck and can’t put on any gear or neutral. Then I then work fine? I’ll view video few more times.
Can you share a picture of what it looks like down below at the transmission? My clutch adjustment rod is hitting my linkage after I changed my master cylinder.
Hello Jayhawker, I am working on a 1940 Chevy with a working vacuum assist. I found the original bushing had come apart and allowed the lever to drop out and jam the linkage. I was able to get it back into place and was able to get all three gears. I followed your video to get it to that point. This was done at the owners house. I checked the shift lever height to the steering wheel it and it measured 2 1/2 inches. I have since replaced the bushing. I do not have the recommended shift lever to steering wheel height, and the only way to get it to shift all three gears and get reverse is to adjust the smaller rod to the bottom of the threaded area. What am I missing ??
Good informative video.I'll probably be pulling the drive shaft out of my 1940 Chevy, Special Deluxe, 4 dr Sport Sedan in the near future to paint it nice & shiny. So, this video was very helpful. I put the shaft in the car, after a complete disassemble, back in the mid 1980s so I'll have to go back to the manual (along with your video) to reinstall -- memory is a bit fuzzy. One thing I'm concerned about is making sure that when the gear shift is in neutral, the linkages to the transmission also have the gears in neutral. Also, can I install the firewall grommet when I reinstall the shaft without having to remove it later when carpet is installed? Or, should I just wait to place the grommet at the time of carpet installation?
Another question: I'm re-installing the radiator. What was between the car frame & radiator frame is questionable. Installation kits from vendors agree on the two bolts, washers, & nuts. However, they don't agree on what padding/spacers go along with them. I have some pads for it & the original metal plate that fits along with them. I'm thinking that I could attach the brace rod (from radiator to firewall) & just add what 's needed to bring the radiator up until the rod is level. Do you have any info or suggestions on that?
Glad to see you're over the UMOYOT. Hope you are now rested. Loved the clip at the end but I won't be riding the rails with my old jalopy.
Usually carpets kits do not require that you disassemble the mechanics of a car and have cutouts to accommodate the steering column so you should be fine depending on what the makers of your carpet do. The most serious it should get apart from seat removal is popping pedals and the starter push button off. As for the radiator, I take note of what was in underneath as far as shims and rubber etc. What you put under the radiator support is going to effect the alignment of the front fenders and inner fenders. If you have no idea, just start with a thin piece of rubber between the frame and the support. Most likely it will be ok, but if you need to adjust for body alignment later you can slip some shims in.
@@TheJayhawker Thanks for the feedback. I did mean to say steering column, don't know why I said drive shaft -- oh well. I know that other stuff connects to the radiator but was narrowly focused on situating the radiator "just right." I recently cleaned up the inner fenders & covered them with a rust encapsulator from Eastwood Company. Also did the support panels that connect with the grill etc. So, thanks for the reminder to keep things lose until I get them all aligned. I remember offhand that you were doing something like this in one of the videos & cautioned to get an upper bolt in place first. I'll have to pull that up for re-viewing when I'm ready. Thanks again. Keep doing what you're doing. Greatly appreciated!
Any suggestions on where to get a manual for a 1948 Style master?
I usually hit ebay for the best deals on one. Search for 1942-48 Chevrolet Passenger Service Manual.
Thank you so much! That was great help!
Does your '48 still have the vacuum-assisted shift? Mine did not. I also had an issue with interference between the shifter lever on the transmission and the clutch linkage, which I solved by drilling a hole to move the linkage attachment closer to the trans. Made for a bit less mechanical advantage but it worked. At the time the only manual I could get was on microfilm and I couldn't go to the library every time I had a question. Later got a paper shop manual, figured out the correct way to do the adjustment, and reset it. Sometimes with old cars you just have to "fake it till you make it" !
No, this one does not have the vacuum assist on it anymore either. One of those things that may have made it slightly more comfortable to drive, but wasn't at all necessary. "fake it till you make it," I have based my entire life on those words. lol, just kidding, well sort of.
I need to know how to change the bushing on the end of the rod shifter
Where I can find the video at the very beginning?
If your clutch is sticking, what could be the problem?
A friend is having problems adjusting the shift linkage on his 3 on the tree 39 buick as you stated it is all alone. As there is a cable to the trans. I would like to help him with a pic of the linkage you tube won't let me print it from your vidio and if you can throw any tips this way about the little bump to align it would help. When he told me that you have to put it in second to do it I was floored as I always knew n n n thanks for listening. Burton Comensky
Noticed you had the vacuum cylinder bracket on the transmission, but did not see you put the shift cylinder in?
I think I mentioned that the vacuum assist was removed on this vehicle.
Hello good morning. I have a 51 chevy styleline deluxe 4dr sedan. 3 on 3. Steering column shifting. 3sp manual transmission enclosed shaft, close drive. I'm looking for complete rebuild kit. Please help me were can I find it. The same transmission that you have on the book you showed on video 📹
Thank you
Quick question.
I have a 49 Chevy. I got it running but once I when for a test drive 3rd gear pops out. Any recommendations? I have 2 other transmission I can replace with. What would I be looking for to make sure I’m putting a good on as I would hate to replace it if nothing is wrong and I just need to adjust something.
3 possibilities and the last is usually the culprit and the most expensive. Low on fluid, linkage adjustment, worn out synchronizers.
Great!
Is there a commom problem wit ha 1941 chevy coupe that pops out of 3rd gear sometimes? Is it possible that the adjustment is out or more commonly do you think it needs a new transmission?
most likely the brass synchronizers are worn out, I think they are available at the fillingstation.com. I would rebuild it if you want to ship it to me.
Does this car have the vaccum assist. Will this apply to car with out it.
This car originally had vacuum assist but it is missing. Vacuum assist was a simple bolt-on affair onto the outside of the transmission and nothing more. It was very common that once the vacuum assembly started to leak it was simply removed. The transmission is the same, with or without it.
Neat
The 39 was different, as it was related to the 37 - 38 cars.
Moe, Larry, the cheese!
watch it with the Wild Hyacinth Anna...
@@TheJayhawker Nyuk nyuk! 😄
,,,,,I thought I was going to see a lady from the 40’s shifting gears…What are you trying to pull here??
Manuals still do that - assume that you know what they are talking about