Amigo mío: es usted todo un artista......No me cabe la menor de las dudas............Impresionante labor de restauración de ese viejo y magnífico amplificador de potencia.....Enhorabuena.........Un gran abrazo desde Las Islas Canarias (España).........................
Good afternoon! You are just a genius! I have not seen this yet, I watch your videos and I can’t believe with my eyes that this is possible! I wish you good health, family well-being, warmth, love, creative inspiration, as well as financial prosperity in monetary terms! Good luck to you, success, and prosperity to your channel!!!
Надо же, случайно видео попалось! А я полгода назад такой как раз ремонтировал, только под брендом Sounstandard. Не так досконально, конечно, как тут, но всё же немало дел сделал. Тоже менял выходные транзисторы, чистил ручки, также были выгоревшие нагрузочные резисторы 0,33Ом - их потом заменил все (28шт) на 0,47Ом, чтобы немного разгрузить выходные транзисторы и более равномерно нагрузку распределить. Также был один стабилитрон сгоревший на одной плате, попутно и операционные усилители поменял (вместо JRC - NJM). Сейчас работает усилитель в одном из клубов. Респект за ремонт и видео!
@@Pacca33 Esli vy slepoj to da, dlja vas eto remont :D. Dlja menja eto smeshnoe video pro to kak isportit'. I znaja czto etot komik delaet dovolno xorosho vidno gde on podmenjaet usilok. Edinstvennoe chto mne interesno eto chto za xemiju ispolzuet dlja togo chtob metall bystro porzhavel.
And it is not really wise to paint cooling blocks. These are not "painted" black but anodized to multiply the cooling area by roughing up the surface. Your paint will hinder the heat exchange now.
Looks like you did a great job on it. The only thing I didn't like was that you didn't sand the rust down and fully repaint the chassis. Also I would just replace those old noisy fans and screws.
Why would you paint the heatsinks!? Without treating the metal chemically the paint would not stick and worse, flake off as the transistors heat the assembly up. Just asking for trouble for the sake of cosmetics. You have not done that before. Ill advised. Also why not change all the caps? Just to be safe.
@@Prometheus574 Replacing the caps would've been his first priority then. He would also know that that moving coil meter is useless for testing caps. They're rated at 50v so almost guaranteed they've been over volted. Why no esd precaution.
That is true. Always start with new low esr caps. And don't paint heatsinks... Heat transfer will be lower. I'm not an engineer but im building tube amps and class a transistor amps. Only use 105°C Low esr elco's. If they fail the rest will fail. You do not to be an engineer to knowing that 🤔
Not so long ago I put 8 impedance fans in the park audio vx1800 2/500 W amplifier instead of those that I put sunon dc 12 / 3.6 v magnetic levitation on bearings, they work great!
This channel has no fake restoration videos. In the videos, the electronics are just disassembled, cleaned and put back in, but they are doing their best in their given tools.
Gracias por compartir tan bonito video de Reparación del amplificador pero el disipador si no sé pinta xq produciría cortó en los MOSFET pero lo k si estuvo bien explicado fue el cambio de componentes eso sí lo lógico gracias x compartir tan bonita horientacion sigan adelante...... admirable es cuando construyen las cajas para los bafles sigan adelante.....
How beautiful is that National/Panasonic NP3935TZA torodial? 200amps of modified sine wave! The smaller brother of this torodial could power a small city, god only knows what damage this bad boy can do! The late, great Nitishika Yamitomo sure knew his torodials! 🙏🏾🙏🏾🙏🏾
These old Toshiba 2SA1943/2SE5200 NPN/PNP can push up to 200W in pairs on push/pull system (B class) with their 15A and 230V VCE/VCB voltages. 4 pairs on each heatsink and you can have 800W per channel so total could be 1600W RMS. In theory a good design can double the peak output so in theory this can be a 3000W amp in peak power. Considering the model marked as M2000 I would say it is probably 2X500W RMS and 2X1000W peak power and 3000W marking pen power. On the other hand W and dB dont grow at the same rate, so 2X500W is only just double loud than a 2X100W amp and a proper 2X1000W is maybe double lud as 2X250W RMS. Bottom line it is maybe not 3000W but loud enough to make a statement - with good speakers. Restoration is nice though. It doesn't matter how long it will last.
The model number can be based on all kind of ratings. It's pretty common to get the biggest number which would probably be the bridged power @ 4Ohms Which could give specs per channel in the order of : 1000W/channel @ 2Ohms or 600-700W/channel @ 4Ohms or 400W/channel @ 8Ohms But the marking on the back mention 8 Ohms min in bridged mode and 4 Ohms min per channel (stereo) and there is also a 220V and something that looks like 1900W right next to it (which makes sense with 10A fuse). Let's give this amp an efficiency of 70% (which is pretty good) that gives us about 665W RMS per channel @ 4Ohms ... I'd say that it certainly hasn't more than 665W RMS per channel @ 4Ohms Nonetheless, he did a great job restoring that amp. Only at the end he was very confident to hook it up to 220V right away. I would have slowly cranked it up using a variac and see how it behaves. PS : a increment of 1B (bel) or 10dB is considered twice as loud. So you need 10 times more power to be twice as loud which would make 1000W "only" twice as loud as 100W
@@ppdan On my workbench I use a lamp in series to start the tests, then I place a heat gun in parallel with the lamp, then I connect a 6-amp breaker in parallel with the lamp, then a 25-amp breaker. This prevents damage. I noticed that he used a scrapped transistor for replacement, in the past I changed them all for new ones, in my last maintenance I did the same way, but in tests I realized that there is a difference in the drained current (which can be measured through the voltage on the resistors) and also a difference in temperature (which I managed to measure by injecting a signal before attaching it to the heatsinks), however, I'm using the amplifier like this and it still hasn't caused a problem.
Would of recapped the entire unit, and replaced the transistors as matching set.. but that's just me.. because if I own it's definitely gonna see a 75% load at long duty cycles.... otherwise nicely done. - Surry Virginia
Elektrolity się mierzy także miernikiem na parametr ESR, a nie tylko na omomierzu. Tranzystory się mierzy nie tylko baza kolektor i baza emiter ale także zaporowo kolektor emiter
Amigo mío: es usted todo un artista......No me cabe la menor de las dudas............Impresionante labor de restauración de ese viejo y magnífico amplificador de potencia.....Enhorabuena.........Un gran abrazo desde Las Islas Canarias (España).........................
Hats off to you man. I will never looked at old stuff the same way now that I saw you repairing this. Thanks
Good afternoon! You are just a genius! I have not seen this yet, I watch your videos and I can’t believe with my eyes that this is possible! I wish you good health, family well-being, warmth, love, creative inspiration, as well as financial prosperity in monetary terms! Good luck to you, success, and prosperity to your channel!!!
You shoud believe your eyes :) It's impossible.
You make it look so easy. Maybe I could do this too ? Maybe not. Good job. Thank you.
I admire your Patience...👍1️⃣🔧!!!
Awesome job ! Love to see all the process and how it is done 🥰 Of course, each case has it's differences from other case's.
Oh yeah. But author shoud pay more attension to details. It;s easy to see that amp at the end is not painted and with dust inside.
Un aparato que no pasará de moda nunca
eres un verdadero artista de la reparacion te felicito un fuerte abrazo desde el pais vasco [España]
Надо же, случайно видео попалось! А я полгода назад такой как раз ремонтировал, только под брендом Sounstandard. Не так досконально, конечно, как тут, но всё же немало дел сделал. Тоже менял выходные транзисторы, чистил ручки, также были выгоревшие нагрузочные резисторы 0,33Ом - их потом заменил все (28шт) на 0,47Ом, чтобы немного разгрузить выходные транзисторы и более равномерно нагрузку распределить. Также был один стабилитрон сгоревший на одной плате, попутно и операционные усилители поменял (вместо JRC - NJM). Сейчас работает усилитель в одном из клубов. Респект за ремонт и видео!
A gde v video remont?
@@whynot6795 это ремонт, друг. то что оне его вконце покрасил это не сильно меняет ситуацию. Вообще огонь работа.
@@Pacca33 Esli vy slepoj to da, dlja vas eto remont :D. Dlja menja eto smeshnoe video pro to kak isportit'. I znaja czto etot komik delaet dovolno xorosho vidno gde on podmenjaet usilok. Edinstvennoe chto mne interesno eto chto za xemiju ispolzuet dlja togo chtob metall bystro porzhavel.
@@whynot6795 azelit
Very good restoration 👍👍👍Thanks for sharing
Wonderful job brother !!! Congratulations from Brazil
Oh my god... You Is The Best!!
Congrulations!!
nice job bro! i wonder why in the filter capacitor and transistor section there was an empty row? i guess that is for a more powerful model amp?
Que Bárbaro!!! Eso es paciencia!
That is not a knife now. It's a work of art! Beautiful!
Amazing job. Well done.
Very nice - until he painted the heat sinks ... 😏😏
Una buena limpieza y espectacular y muy buena
I like this video it good
I like when you sprayed on the rusted case.....
No abrasive clean, no rust treatment....
And it is not really wise to paint cooling blocks. These are not "painted" black but anodized to multiply the cooling area by roughing up the surface. Your paint will hinder the heat exchange now.
Just subscribed because I have a lot of learning to do! ☺️
Looks like you did a great job on it. The only thing I didn't like was that you didn't sand the rust down and fully repaint the chassis. Also I would just replace those old noisy fans and screws.
Why would you paint the heatsinks!? Without treating the metal chemically the paint would not stick and worse, flake off as the transistors heat the assembly up. Just asking for trouble for the sake of cosmetics. You have not done that before. Ill advised. Also why not change all the caps? Just to be safe.
He is a Vietnamese double degree in electrical engineering and computer science, so I think he knows what he is doing.
@@Prometheus574 Replacing the caps would've been his first priority then. He would also know that that moving coil meter is useless for testing caps. They're rated at 50v so almost guaranteed they've been over volted. Why no esd precaution.
That is true. Always start with new low esr caps. And don't paint heatsinks... Heat transfer will be lower. I'm not an engineer but im building tube amps and class a transistor amps. Only use 105°C Low esr elco's. If they fail the rest will fail. You do not to be an engineer to knowing that 🤔
That is thermal paste
@@Prometheus574 So what do you know about his double degrees and all this stuff do you know him personally or are you just privy to that information
You are a good pro tech. 👍👍
สุดยอดมากครับ
Nice restoration amplifier👍👍
Not so long ago I put 8 impedance fans in the park audio vx1800 2/500 W amplifier instead of those that I put sunon dc 12 / 3.6 v magnetic levitation on bearings, they work great!
Genial...gracias!!!
anh này giỏi thật
Đẹp quá đỉnh của đỉnh
สุดยอดครับ👍👍👍👍🇹🇭
Nice, please paint front panel also
Bravo !!!!! great Job !!!!
When eating during these videos I power through my lunch @x50
Magnífico
Good....mester
당신은 아주 유능한 기술자입니다.
Complimenti bravo 🙌
Muito bom 👏👏
It's a shame the guy taken everything apart but did not replace the capacitor, ??
6:53 the screams of the capacitors leaving the pcb
🤣
If one power cap failed, the rest are soon to follow. Probably won’t last a few hours of operation.
This channel has no fake restoration videos. In the videos, the electronics are just disassembled, cleaned and put back in, but they are doing their best in their given tools.
He also changes everything that’s not working anymore
Take our sunglasses and watch more carefully. No fake restoration LOL 😁😁😁🤣🤣
Maestro de maestros
Pls,add subs about your actions!Great work.
It would be cool if you tested the performance on a dyno afterward.
Gracias por compartir tan bonito video de Reparación del amplificador pero el disipador si no sé pinta xq produciría cortó en los MOSFET pero lo k si estuvo bien explicado fue el cambio de componentes eso sí lo lógico gracias x compartir tan bonita horientacion sigan adelante...... admirable es cuando construyen las cajas para los bafles sigan adelante.....
EXCELENTE!!!
How beautiful is that National/Panasonic NP3935TZA torodial? 200amps of modified sine wave! The smaller brother of this torodial could power a small city, god only knows what damage this bad boy can do! The late, great Nitishika Yamitomo sure knew his torodials! 🙏🏾🙏🏾🙏🏾
SUPER.👍👍👍👍👍
VERY NICE WORK COOL
Small rectifier bridge, and low voltage of electrolytic capacitors, in view of the large transformer and the large amount of output transistors.
You are genius sir great
Te felicito por la restauración de ese amplificador, si que vale la pena restaurarlo, gracias por su vídeo, saludos cordiales Nezahualcóyotl México.
Super!🔥👍
Excelente
Good work .. i am dhanasekar from Coimbatore , Tamilnadu India
Un buen mantenimiento
These old Toshiba 2SA1943/2SE5200 NPN/PNP can push up to 200W in pairs on push/pull system (B class) with their 15A and 230V VCE/VCB voltages. 4 pairs on each heatsink and you can have 800W per channel so total could be 1600W RMS. In theory a good design can double the peak output so in theory this can be a 3000W amp in peak power. Considering the model marked as M2000 I would say it is probably 2X500W RMS and 2X1000W peak power and 3000W marking pen power. On the other hand W and dB dont grow at the same rate, so 2X500W is only just double loud than a 2X100W amp and a proper 2X1000W is maybe double lud as 2X250W RMS. Bottom line it is maybe not 3000W but loud enough to make a statement - with good speakers.
Restoration is nice though. It doesn't matter how long it will last.
The model number can be based on all kind of ratings.
It's pretty common to get the biggest number which would probably be the bridged power @ 4Ohms
Which could give specs per channel in the order of : 1000W/channel @ 2Ohms or 600-700W/channel @ 4Ohms or 400W/channel @ 8Ohms
But the marking on the back mention 8 Ohms min in bridged mode and 4 Ohms min per channel (stereo) and there is also a 220V and something that looks like 1900W right next to it (which makes sense with 10A fuse).
Let's give this amp an efficiency of 70% (which is pretty good) that gives us about 665W RMS per channel @ 4Ohms ...
I'd say that it certainly hasn't more than 665W RMS per channel @ 4Ohms
Nonetheless, he did a great job restoring that amp. Only at the end he was very confident to hook it up to 220V right away. I would have slowly cranked it up using a variac and see how it behaves.
PS : a increment of 1B (bel) or 10dB is considered twice as loud. So you need 10 times more power to be twice as loud which would make 1000W "only" twice as loud as 100W
@@ppdan On my workbench I use a lamp in series to start the tests, then I place a heat gun in parallel with the lamp, then I connect a 6-amp breaker in parallel with the lamp, then a 25-amp breaker. This prevents damage. I noticed that he used a scrapped transistor for replacement, in the past I changed them all for new ones, in my last maintenance I did the same way, but in tests I realized that there is a difference in the drained current (which can be measured through the voltage on the resistors) and also a difference in temperature (which I managed to measure by injecting a signal before attaching it to the heatsinks), however, I'm using the amplifier like this and it still hasn't caused a problem.
28:34 pretty confident in your wiring I see. Don't want to get zapped first thing in the morning.
Mantap biar suda lama alat ya tetap ada untuk ganti komponen ya
100% инструмент которым он пользуется их тоже отреставрировал)
very professional.good joob bro
Un clásico de clásicos
Thank you for this wonderful art. You have an amazing gift. Keep it up.
Хороший видео материал
Would of recapped the entire unit, and replaced the transistors as matching set.. but that's just me.. because if I own it's definitely gonna see a 75% load at long duty cycles.... otherwise nicely done. - Surry Virginia
I think should not be sprayed with heatsink paint.🤔🤔
Â
Q
Totally agree! It lessens the heat dissipation of the heatsinks
29:00 great work . by the way you can add an audio mixer in the front
Regular trabajo, pero buen video
21:01 there's nothing a beer cannot solve 🍺
I saw the same thing! I thought he was just using old isopropyl then I noticed it wasn’t evaporating, then I saw the beer bottle! 😧
Why not add 4 extra 50v 10000uf capacitors when the solderpads are there?
Hey I have a Sanyo Portable Mini Component System, how I know in what position goes the red, grey and black cables from cassete to power base? Thanks
Te admiro amigo
Maravilloso
Good job
este vídeo is motiva a los que le gusta este mundo excelente.
Very good!
Wow, after all that work you should have cleaned up and painted the metal case.
21:04 Ok, he's using beer for cleaning the board…
es una buena en señansa
Good job - but are they using petrol to clean the PCB's with??
Super viedo bro
very cool
Good
Молодчага! Оно того стоит - этот богатырь ватт 250 на каждый канал даст в лёгкую!💪🤩
Ты просто топ 😄😃😅😁😁
looks well made. all metal oxide resistors
I like watching movies like this, you show that you don't need to throw anything away, you just need to fix it 👍(i used google translator)
If you have plenty of spare part source like him, yes. Otherwise, good luck finding those faulty components :)
I hope you are waching these videos backwards? I mean how woking amp is fucked.
❤❤❤❤
Es admirable
buen trabajo amigo, solo una sugerencia, antes de desarmar una sopleteada para hacer mejor trabajo. felicidades
Супер 😃😃😅😁
Классная работа !
Интересно, как звучит этот здоровяк ?
i wouldn't have him fix an amp for me so many bad practices and things not done
Es sorprendente
dummy load , signal generator , watt meter testing?
Una buena limpieza
Extraordinario
Elektrolity się mierzy także miernikiem na parametr ESR, a nie tylko na omomierzu. Tranzystory się mierzy nie tylko baza kolektor i baza emiter ale także zaporowo kolektor emiter