Thank you! I just picked up a used Zero turn with vacuum system, steering is all hekry-jerky. Just checked the steering dampers and they are both shot! Machine has under 1,000 hours, hopefully this makes it smooth again.
Thanks for doing this video. I have a Toro exhibiting the same problem. I made the mistake of ordering some dampers on Amazon. They were worse then originals. Ordered a pair from Toro dealer and the problem is now fixed. Learned my lesson.
Not so fast. While the terms "hydro-pump," "transmission," and "motor" are often used interchangeably to describe the part of the mower which turns the wheels, they are technically motors. In fact, if you try to order this part from Toro, you will need to ask for a "motor-wheel" (One example, part number 1-523328). A transmission uses gears to change the speed or direction, but these wheel motors have no gears. They are also not pumps, since they rely on a supply of hydraulic pressure from a separate belt-driven pump. They are motors which use a supplied hydraulic pressure to turn the wheels. You're welcome! See this: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydraulic_motor
I don't have a specific answer for you, but I think you'll find that the life of a dampener will depend on many things. The quality of the original component is one factor, the amount of turns and force used in those turns is another, and even things like ambient temperature during use could be a factor. The best approach is just to test the dampeners when you feel a change, or do it as part of your annual maintenance.
Great video and the dampers on my Toro Z148 are definitely bad. Wish you had included the removal of them as haven't found any info on how to do that. Going to tackle it when my new dampers show up as may need to cut the grass before they get here. Thanks for getting me on the right track. I have had this mower for 20 years and it started doing the jerking around last year.
Bought a zero turn (Toro) for my mom a few years ago. It has had jerky steering since it was new. My zero turn (Simplicity) steers smooth and always has. Hoping to use the info in your video to fix my mom's mower. It is horrible to drive!
Well, yes, it was night and day. Different manufacturers of these dampeners may provide varying levels of resistance. The pair that I bought was fairly stiff, and it is an adjustment for the driver going from failed dampeners to stiff new ones, But, they tend to break in after a few mows. Once you adjust to the new feel they work great. The thing is, these dampeners tend to get sloppy over time, so the failure sneaks up on you! Then one day you realize the machine has become twitchy.
@@enduringcharm Did you have any issue loosening the nut spacers on the bolt that holds the dampener in? Mine are majority locked in place, can't loosen them to get the bolt out to transfer to the new damper.
Do you mean the double-nut arrangement? Mine had two nuts tightened against each other to provide the spacing. You need a wrench on each nut so you can loosen one of them, then you can unscrew each individually. Hold the wrenches just slightly offset and squeeze them together and the nuts will come loose.
@@enduringcharm Ok, that's what I thought. I just don't have wrenches with thin enough flats to fit on the nut flats so it's been a struggle using pliers. This is a lack of tools issue. Thanks a ton for the helpful responses!
Oh, well, you need to march yourself down to the nearest Harbor Freight or home improvement center and buy yourself some tools! No project should go by without a tool purchase, I always say. If you have a vice you may be able to hold the outside nut in that and use whatever you have on the other nut. Or, if you have a socket set, you can use a long socket on the outside nut and a wrench on the inside nut.
It really couldn't be easier. Most mowers will have a single bolt at the bottom and single one at the top of the damper. If there isn't a bolt, the damper tip may have a socket which snaps over a ball. You just pry the socket off of the ball.
I have a 930 deere that is smooth no resistance but my ferris 2200 is stiff I can't find anything on how or what to do on lessing the resistance. what do you think?
Well, there are a number of possibilities. First I would check for excess friction at pivot points. This could be due to missing washers or too tight of a fit, to missing grease, or to bent or damaged components. Disconnect the shocks and just feel for undue resistance. If that checks out then perhaps your shocks are either the wrong ones (too stiff) or the shock rods are bent. Of course, you could choose to find a shock that fits but with less resistance. You may also find that altering your hand position will better suite that machine--more leverage will equal less perceived resistance.
Hard to say without being there. Some of the dampeners bolt on and others have some kind of clip system. If you have a clip system it may be that the ball is worn, or that you are not fully engaging the clip to lock it in place. It could also be that the anchor point is bent or otherwise damaged. Do both sides look identical? Did you grease the anchor points so the dampeners can rotate easily?
I just got a new to me toro and the right handle won't go back to center on its own. I have to pull it back to center in oder to slow or go to neutral. What could it be?
My mower is jerky so I tried replacing the dampeners the problem still exists. My new ones are nowhere near as stiff as yours (can push them together fairly easily). Is that normal for some mowers to have such different stiffness?
Are you certain the replacements you got were new and the correct type? Even if they are, you can likely source stiffer dampeners with a little homework. The important thing is the length and the connection style, and you can try to find stiffer versions within those specs.
Replacement shocks? There are so many different types for different brands and models that I thought it wouldn't be useful to link to mine. There are companies who sell them for pretty much every model, though, and you can buy them on Amazon and Ebay among other places.
Yes, it could be that one shock has failed. It could also be that you have a bent or binding linkage or even a problem with the hydraulics on one side. Disconnect the linkage and you'll be able to tell quickly if a shock has failed.
There are a LOT of lubrication points on these machines. Some have grease fittings, but others you just need to find, clean and lube. If you have a squeak you are hearing over the engine, it must be a doosey. Probably you should turn the engine off and move the controls around to see if you can isolate the noise.
I hear it when i move the lapbars without the engine, then once I start driving around it seems to be even worse. Are there any spots that i shouldn't be lubricating?
Not really, I guess. Anywhere you find metal on metal contact is a place where a squeak could occur. It may well be the shocks themselves if they are worn, but you should be able to hear where the sound is coming from, perhaps with a helper.
If it's one of the points in the control arms where metal pivots or rides against metal you can either push some automotive bearing grease in there with your fingers (the type is really not that important) or you can buy a spray white lithium grease and spray that area. If you think it's the shocks themselves then they probably need replacing, but you can temporarily spray some silicone lubricant on the piston shaft and see if that helps.
Online, but I can't recall which vendor now. You'll find them available on Amazon and Ebay, and also for sale by smaller online retailers who specialize in tool and machinery parts or in mower parts.
Well, it is possible you could find or have made shocks with a different calibration. You might have to do some experimentation, though. Of course, it could also be that the ones on there are not the correct shocks and a previous owner chose the wrong part. Before you start down that rabbit hole, however, it might be worth checking that the stiffness isn't a different problem. If you disconnect the shocks completely you can check to make sure the linkage isn't binding or you have some other physical problem. And, consider altering your driving technique. Gripping the levers at the ends will give you more leverage and could counteract the stiffness of the shocks.
Ha! In that case it's probably a matter of technique and breaking in. I will say that in, say, half a season of use the shocks tend to break in and feel a little less stiff. And changing your grip can really make a difference. Still, just because it's new doesn't mean there isn't anything binding, so you might want to check that too.
Thank you! I just picked up a used Zero turn with vacuum system, steering is all hekry-jerky. Just checked the steering dampers and they are both shot! Machine has under 1,000 hours, hopefully this makes it smooth again.
How do you do that mY new lazer z is horrible 😫
Did it fix it?
Thanks for doing this video. I have a Toro exhibiting the same problem. I made the mistake of ordering some dampers on Amazon. They were worse then originals. Ordered a pair from Toro dealer and the problem is now fixed. Learned my lesson.
Presented very well. thanks for the info....tim
I wanted to know how to adjust new mower steering, when handles are even mower wants to turn to the right. MTD 46" Craftsman
Not motors …. Transmissions. The motor is the big loud thing. You’re Welcome
Not so fast. While the terms "hydro-pump," "transmission," and "motor" are often used interchangeably to describe the part of the mower which turns the wheels, they are technically motors. In fact, if you try to order this part from Toro, you will need to ask for a "motor-wheel" (One example, part number 1-523328). A transmission uses gears to change the speed or direction, but these wheel motors have no gears. They are also not pumps, since they rely on a supply of hydraulic pressure from a separate belt-driven pump. They are motors which use a supplied hydraulic pressure to turn the wheels. You're welcome! See this: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydraulic_motor
You can tell you are a serious worker by all the blood stains on your shorts. Not going to let a flesh wound stop you.
Ha! I think that was actually red barn paint, but it isn't unusual that it would be blood, either.
How many hours did you have on your ZT mower when you needed to replace those dampeners?
I don't have a specific answer for you, but I think you'll find that the life of a dampener will depend on many things. The quality of the original component is one factor, the amount of turns and force used in those turns is another, and even things like ambient temperature during use could be a factor. The best approach is just to test the dampeners when you feel a change, or do it as part of your annual maintenance.
Great video and the dampers on my Toro Z148 are definitely bad. Wish you had included the removal of them as haven't found any info on how to do that. Going to tackle it when my new dampers show up as may need to cut the grass before they get here. Thanks for getting me on the right track. I have had this mower for 20 years and it started doing the jerking around last year.
Typically it's just a bolt and maybe some washers and nuts to remove the dampeners. It should be pretty obvious.
Thanks for this video it really helped find my problem.
Bought a zero turn (Toro) for my mom a few years ago. It has had jerky steering since it was new. My zero turn (Simplicity) steers smooth and always has. Hoping to use the info in your video to fix my mom's mower. It is horrible to drive!
I gave you a thumbs up for the sexy gams comment! LOL
HAHA! Maybe I should start a different kind of channel!
@@enduringcharm LOL
New dampener fixed my problem. Thanks!
Thanks very much, very informative video
Great video, thank you, thumbs up given.
After you replaced both dampers, was it a night-and-day steering improvement as expected? Any issues?
Well, yes, it was night and day. Different manufacturers of these dampeners may provide varying levels of resistance. The pair that I bought was fairly stiff, and it is an adjustment for the driver going from failed dampeners to stiff new ones, But, they tend to break in after a few mows. Once you adjust to the new feel they work great. The thing is, these dampeners tend to get sloppy over time, so the failure sneaks up on you! Then one day you realize the machine has become twitchy.
@@enduringcharm Did you have any issue loosening the nut spacers on the bolt that holds the dampener in?
Mine are majority locked in place, can't loosen them to get the bolt out to transfer to the new damper.
Do you mean the double-nut arrangement? Mine had two nuts tightened against each other to provide the spacing. You need a wrench on each nut so you can loosen one of them, then you can unscrew each individually. Hold the wrenches just slightly offset and squeeze them together and the nuts will come loose.
@@enduringcharm Ok, that's what I thought.
I just don't have wrenches with thin enough flats to fit on the nut flats so it's been a struggle using pliers. This is a lack of tools issue.
Thanks a ton for the helpful responses!
Oh, well, you need to march yourself down to the nearest Harbor Freight or home improvement center and buy yourself some tools! No project should go by without a tool purchase, I always say. If you have a vice you may be able to hold the outside nut in that and use whatever you have on the other nut. Or, if you have a socket set, you can use a long socket on the outside nut and a wrench on the inside nut.
Wish you would have shown the procedure for replacing the dampers. That's what I came here for
It really couldn't be easier. Most mowers will have a single bolt at the bottom and single one at the top of the damper. If there isn't a bolt, the damper tip may have a socket which snaps over a ball. You just pry the socket off of the ball.
Great info! Thank you for sharing!
I hate arm rests. Even in my van.
I have a 930 deere that is smooth no resistance but my ferris 2200 is stiff I can't find anything on how or what to do on lessing the resistance. what do you think?
Well, there are a number of possibilities. First I would check for excess friction at pivot points. This could be due to missing washers or too tight of a fit, to missing grease, or to bent or damaged components. Disconnect the shocks and just feel for undue resistance.
If that checks out then perhaps your shocks are either the wrong ones (too stiff) or the shock rods are bent. Of course, you could choose to find a shock that fits but with less resistance. You may also find that altering your hand position will better suite that machine--more leverage will equal less perceived resistance.
My damper pops off . I bought a new one and it does the same thing. Any ideas? I have a Gravely ZT42
Hard to say without being there. Some of the dampeners bolt on and others have some kind of clip system. If you have a clip system it may be that the ball is worn, or that you are not fully engaging the clip to lock it in place. It could also be that the anchor point is bent or otherwise damaged. Do both sides look identical? Did you grease the anchor points so the dampeners can rotate easily?
Tried your suggestion. Now my mower drives smooth. 2010 Dixon that I just got.
Glad it helped!
I just got a new to me toro and the right handle won't go back to center on its own. I have to pull it back to center in oder to slow or go to neutral. What could it be?
The dampener or "shock" could well be the problem. Remove it and see what condition it is in. Also, check for any binding in case anything is bent.
My mower is jerky so I tried replacing the dampeners the problem still exists. My new ones are nowhere near as stiff as yours (can push them together fairly easily). Is that normal for some mowers to have such different stiffness?
Are you certain the replacements you got were new and the correct type? Even if they are, you can likely source stiffer dampeners with a little homework. The important thing is the length and the connection style, and you can try to find stiffer versions within those specs.
Awesome
I don't like my armrests either. I learned something new but you didn't tell us where to get them or how much they cost?
Replacement shocks? There are so many different types for different brands and models that I thought it wouldn't be useful to link to mine. There are companies who sell them for pretty much every model, though, and you can buy them on Amazon and Ebay among other places.
Thanks for the informative video
What does it mean when one lever is stiffer compared to the other one?
Yes, it could be that one shock has failed. It could also be that you have a bent or binding linkage or even a problem with the hydraulics on one side. Disconnect the linkage and you'll be able to tell quickly if a shock has failed.
Where did u get the dampers from
You can find them on Amazon. Just search the OEM part numbers.
Will this also help with the sqeak that happens when i move the lapbars?
There are a LOT of lubrication points on these machines. Some have grease fittings, but others you just need to find, clean and lube. If you have a squeak you are hearing over the engine, it must be a doosey. Probably you should turn the engine off and move the controls around to see if you can isolate the noise.
I hear it when i move the lapbars without the engine, then once I start driving around it seems to be even worse. Are there any spots that i shouldn't be lubricating?
Not really, I guess. Anywhere you find metal on metal contact is a place where a squeak could occur. It may well be the shocks themselves if they are worn, but you should be able to hear where the sound is coming from, perhaps with a helper.
Great, thanks for the help. Would WD-40 do the trick? If not what do you recommend?
If it's one of the points in the control arms where metal pivots or rides against metal you can either push some automotive bearing grease in there with your fingers (the type is really not that important) or you can buy a spray white lithium grease and spray that area. If you think it's the shocks themselves then they probably need replacing, but you can temporarily spray some silicone lubricant on the piston shaft and see if that helps.
Good tips.
Where did you find the steering dampeners?
Online, but I can't recall which vendor now. You'll find them available on Amazon and Ebay, and also for sale by smaller online retailers who specialize in tool and machinery parts or in mower parts.
Mine on my Ferris are way too stiff! Any suggestions?
Well, it is possible you could find or have made shocks with a different calibration. You might have to do some experimentation, though. Of course, it could also be that the ones on there are not the correct shocks and a previous owner chose the wrong part. Before you start down that rabbit hole, however, it might be worth checking that the stiffness isn't a different problem. If you disconnect the shocks completely you can check to make sure the linkage isn't binding or you have some other physical problem. And, consider altering your driving technique. Gripping the levers at the ends will give you more leverage and could counteract the stiffness of the shocks.
@@enduringcharm it’s a brand new Ferris Z3X!
Ha! In that case it's probably a matter of technique and breaking in. I will say that in, say, half a season of use the shocks tend to break in and feel a little less stiff. And changing your grip can really make a difference. Still, just because it's new doesn't mean there isn't anything binding, so you might want to check that too.
my new ferris is stiffer my deere 930 is butter did you fix your ferris?
Thanks John.
I would say those shocks are shot. Lol