Volvo XC70 Frame Straightening at Home, Using Trees
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- Опубликовано: 12 сен 2024
- I wasn't sure if this was possible, although others have suggested it is. It worked fine, so I wanted to post the procedure for others.
We have almost $7,000 in this Volvo XC70, starting with the $5,000 initial cost, then the $1,400 for the rebuilt transmission I put in last year, the exhaust, brake rotors and pads, tires, and more. I could not see abandoning all that time and money, so I wanted to give this a shot.
Having a body shop straighten the frame, and rebuild this was out of the question, as it would cost more than the car is worth. But for under $800, I was able to do a reasonable job of rebuilding it, and at home, on my schedule. And also, $250 of that is tools that I can either resell, or use for other fun stuff.
I'm planning on doing this. Problem is I only have one tree. So, I planted one today 20 more years and I'll be ready!
+redwhitentrue hahaha..I have one tree too.
But why wait? Just make sure if you're using local utility poles, to be sure and do the work late at night when no one is watching!
wilkesjournal lol
redwhitentrue hahaha
redwhitentrue 19 more years man. Time will fly by haha.
I used to do that,
Told everyone it was repaired at pine tree auto repair
Thats freaking brilliant
😆 🤣 😂
LoL
I went to school for autobody and learned a little about pulling. Looks like you did a really good job but I would recommend using something else for your measurement other than the hood because it can be moved around. If you ever plan on doing this again you should use a tape measure or a stick that you put a mark on or something and make an x from a bolt on the shock towers to a bolt that is on both sides of what you're pulling.
It would be damn near impossible to make it to pre-accident condition with-out a 3D measure computer (forgot the name). The rail should be checked for cracks with a electrochemical crack sensor now since the steel wasn't stress relieved when pulling it. What do you think about my advice Kit. Just trying to help and learn.
Hard Paint or you could go and measure a non-accident car ( that's the same of course ) and use those to yours
Thanks, Kit... that is a good point.
I am presently working on my daughters car as well. I live on a rural island so it cost a lot to have things shipped here. I am instead using a “come along” to pull the front frame and a floor jack to push up the headlight brackets. I wish I had the correct tools available.... Excellent video! Thanks for sharing.
Sorry I missed your nice comments for two years! How did your project work out for you?
Thanks for sharing. So glad you decided to record this major achievement. About to tackle a similar project.
Thanks, and best of luck!
Im in the same boat... I put a lot of money into the engine of my truck that was just in an accident and don't see abandoning it either. Im going to have to rebuild it myself. Insurance wanted just to send it to the junkyard. But i said nope ill just do it myself.
Glad that there were no serious injuries. My daughters have totaled TWO cars so far, so I feel your pain.
My 2005 XC 70 just keeps plugging along, 120k miles. Just changed all the fluids and it runs like new.
Losing the radiator was no great loss because they rarely last more than ten years anyway. The AC compressors also go on these T5 engines, so if the condenser coil was damaged that is also not a big loss. It's a great opportunity to clean the electronic throttle body and the EGR oil trap. You will never have better access.
My daughter just did the same to her car (passenger side) .....plan on doing the same thing as soon as my equipment arrives (ordered on ebay for $148 including a 10 ton pull back ram) $ 100 cheaper than Harbor Freight and more powerful....
I love it when it goes as planned.. NICE WORK!!!
We were using trees for many years, but we put straps like seat belt and not chains on the chassis. You don't wanna damage the Chassis
Great advice, thanks!
There may had been less pulls by hitting the Rail you're straightening with a hammer. The technique is called steel stress-relieve. Mainly you hit the steel around the area that's damaged to let the atoms of the steel re-shape and not crack between those atoms.
pull in the wrong directn OR bend too far, the ATOMS won't return to orig shape without heat or friction, bend but DO NOT break. use REAL steel and real Patience, I used rivets , the bus was a TAD too dirty;
this type of hydralic tool worth every penny invested, this type fo job is generally not complicated and the result is usually rewarding
I applaud innovative thinking + a can-do attitude. that hydraulic ram jack looks great! I ran into the back of a car which stopped suddenly (I should have anticipated this). You've given me inspiration. My damage is limited to the cross pillar and verticals not the sub frame. I should have had insurance but they would've written the car off and it was a cheap runabout kinda car.
Thanks much, Joeman. Sorry I missed your post for so long.
Nice job. I had a mini van that a deer did some customizing on. It was pushed in on the radiator support in the center. I got a come a long and pulled the damage out in my dad's garage. I attached the come a long to a 4 x 4 that I put on the other side of the doorway going into the house. It worked real good. TFS
+MostlymoparIH lmao a deer did some customizing on your car?! Did one jump out in front of your moving van? I've almost hit deers standing in the middle of the road a few times, but stopped before I got close to them...
+kurojin97
Actually the deer hit my dad's van and he was not going to fix it so I bought it from him and fixed it. It had almost 270k on it when we stopped using it.
+MostlymoparIH Deer are a real problem... I have hit two in my life, taking out the grill and radiator of one car, and having the hood beat in from the hooves of another. And believe it or not, I've been HIT BY two deer, while stopped! One at a light, and another when I slammed to a stop, by he couldn't... he slid up over my trunk, hit the pavement, and ran away.
I ride a motorcycle, too... and so far, have been VERY lucky in that department. Luck of the draw I guess...
+proto57
Around here some people didn't want the hunters shooting the deer. They were not allow to hunt in the state park. Well guess where all the deer would congregate? Yup the state park and Freehold Road cuts through the park sooo, there was an increase in accidents with deer. Got bad enough that they allowed hunters into the park to thin out the herd. Supply and demand.
A big supply of deer became available because there was no demand available for them (hunters not allowed in). An example of how it works and proof that it works. TFS
+proto57 So deer are kind of like vandals...hooligans?
This is awesome! I did the same with a 01 f150 crew cab that rolled over. Used it on the front and a pillar driver side. Nice job.
I'm glad this worked for you, Mario. Thanks for the nice comments, too...
this video really helps now i just need to find 2 trees around to pull my accord frame back to place
WOW! You gave me a great idea as Im in the same situation after buying some insurance vehicles!
I did it the same way you done it and it worked perfect
Came out much better than expected and with only 2 trees and some measurements
Hey Fredo, I'm glad it worked out for you!
That's a job well done. I learned something. Thanks
Thanks, Ryan!
Nice video, what ever it takes to get the job done, great idea Thanks for sharing.
These are the cars where the ad says shit like clean, straight body, no accidents, never seen snow, always garaged, never been off road hahaha
+kidsrangesucks True! We have to be soooo careful. In fact, this car had a rattle that we could not find, when we test drove it. The seller agreed that "maybe it was the heat shield on the muffler", and so no big deal. It turned out it was the lower coil on the coil spring, which had broken... I missed it. This meant I had to put in a new rear strut and spring.
I know he knew... because on examination, I could see where the lower strut had hit a rock, to break it. You can never be too careful...
+proto57 good job !
Thx for the video, someone got up close and personal with my Lasabre, so I'm looking to pull the right side. Stuck it between two trees and made a little headway, being ever so careful. I did see these tools on Harbor Freight's website so I'm going to chk them out. Thx for the vid. For anyone who's looking for this pulling tool, it's under frame repair.
I have to do the exact same thing. I tried some other way but it did not work well. Thank you for this video I just came back from harbor frieght and pruchased the items. Glad I had a 25% discount plus it was on sale. I will try this , but seeing your resolts I belive I will have success also. I imagen you hooked up the other end to the chasis of car next to the wheel. At least that is where I will be hooking mine.
Thanks again for the video. Great job.
Good job bro. I’m going to work on my car.
I plan on doing almost the exact same thing on my car, just wondering where on the car you attached the other chain to to hold it steady while pulling? Thanks
other side of frame but put peace of wood on it to spread force so u dont end up bending it
@@toyotacamry1239, the other side of frame? I was looking for something more specific, like at least a picture of where you put it?👀🙂
@@patriciamariemitchel like u see where ur bend frame is
On the other side there is also a frame facing it
Nothing wrong with trying to fix up an old car like this, especially when it’s wrecked and probably minimal coverage. One thing to remember is that most shops will do a pull on this to straighten it, and then replace the crumpled parts. This is because the metal will not be as strong after it is pulled back out and may not help protect as well in another crash. Yes I did something very similar to fix my bosses car so I could put a bumper back on it.
Real nice job.....just goes to show.
You have to hammer the frame straight at the points of where it is bent as you pull. This way it will not go back and it will be a little stronger then if you were not to hammer.
Great tip, Tony. I didn't know that, thanks.
hi and thanks for the vid...how did you tie the other end to counter the pull force? did you use the subframe/k frame?
"I chained the opposite side of the box member and frame, right where the box member was bolted to the frame. This was in effect the same pivot point that the frame in front of the box member rotated around, when hit. I felt this gave the best chance of not pulling anything good out of alignment, and it worked fine. I don't think anything straight was bent..."
Very nice work and great diy,.
People complaining about your idea because either they have no cars or they depend on their moms checks to pay for the repair...
... or they have an investment in $300,000 in special tools and training, which can only be paid for by relying on the belief that nobody can do this, themselves.
@@proto57 weird way to put that lol
@@dth91 I guess that was put clumsily. But basically, the people who tell you "no" are often the ones who charge you do to the things they say are impossible.
The same thing happens all the time. One instance was being told, by a marine mechanic, that I would not be able to replace the rotten transom on my boat. Well I did, and it worked for over 10 years just fine, and was still good when I sold my boat. It cost me about $120 to fix, but he wanted $1,800.
i will do this today on my s60r, but need to pull just about 1/2 inch, thanks for tip ( harbor is 2 miles from garage )
nice vid ... thanks for posting ! ...
Nice easy fix. May I ask, what part of the car did you use to anchor on the non pull side?
Probably the engine subframe.
"I chained the opposite side of the box member and frame, right where the box member was bolted to the frame. This was in effect the same pivot point that the frame in front of the box member rotated around, when hit. I felt this gave the best chance of not pulling anything good out of alignment, and it worked fine. I don't think anything straight was bent..."
I have to do this for my nephew's 2006 dodge Stratus. HFT had the hydraulic shop kit on sale for 98 green backs and I had a 25 per-cent off coupon so I got the pull back ram for 28 green backs.
Very cool, and best of luck!
Had a front end accident with my Speed6 and my left rail is out about an inch. It's parked on the side of the road with a power pole right next to it. Gonna send it with this!
Nice job !!
Wow, it's fixed that was amazing. Did it !
Thanks for sharing it, nice video and good job
You're my hero. Nice job.
Well much thanks!
You have to hit the tension dent and creases with a hammer to release the stress or it will bend back!
Nice work! thanks for posting!
+Tony Harris Thanks for the comment!
These rams are awesome straightened the frame on my mazda b2300 with two trees and the ram
Hey great!
i've seen some people hit the metal under tension to release some stress.
+basketballcoachmike I could see that helping.
Short and sweet. Thanks from Queens NY.
+Mike Blake Thanks Mike. Hope it helps someone...
What did you fasten the chain to on the passenger side?
Hey great vid sir. What is the other chain tied on to? Frame as well or axle? Your response will be highly appreciated. Thanks
"I chained the opposite side of the box member and frame, right where the box member was bolted to the frame. This was in effect the same pivot point that the frame in front of the box member rotated around, when hit. I felt this gave the best chance of not pulling anything good out of alignment, and it worked fine. I don't think anything straight was bent..."
Heat would have been your best friend in that situation! Still very nice job!!!
Heat softens the metal making it weaker...not your best friend
How you gonna heat up all of the front frame? Put the car in a oven?
Like Zeke said, it'll take the temper out of the steel. Not a good idea!
Man I wish I had two trees!
am stuck with the same problem my BMW E36 right frame chase is bent, thank you for the way out. so gonna try this.
What happened at 2:58 you can hear something snap and then you see liquid running down the fender.
Looks pretty wet out there. I reckon the shaking of the vehicle made some small water pool to run off an edge onto that fender lining
Yeah I heard that. But everything seemed to work fine... it was probably just two things sliding past each other, or like that. Dashboard is right, though, it was wet that day... so there was water on everything.
5 votes thumbs down. Those are the frame shop guys. I'm suprised i see no comments from then telling you
that your car is a death trap and that this is rocket science that should only be attempted on THEIR 2 million $ frame machine.
And then the tree hugger society threatening you with a lawsuit for abusing those trees.
+greg hassen Yes! If I get in a time machine and go "forward" a couple of decades, this will probably all be illegal. Who knows... maybe it is now!
+proto57 You did much better than the video of the guy chaining his truck to the tree and slamming
it in reverse. Now THAT's tree abuse. Take a look at the "backhoe body repair" video
proto57 nice work man.
To pull a frame use a chain fall sideways to a tree
in front i would have not supported it in front i think rear of driver front tire would be were the support car stand would go letting as much tension off the front...thanks fer video :] good job sir
That makes sense, overbuilt. And thanks...
Quick question: where on the car did you anchor the "restriction" chain (passenger side)?
i have the same question..guess i just have to figure it out
Around the exhaust pipe
"I chained the opposite side of the box member and frame, right where the box member was bolted to the frame. This was in effect the same pivot point that the frame in front of the box member rotated around, when hit. I felt this gave the best chance of not pulling anything good out of alignment, and it worked fine. I don't think anything straight was bent..."
good job dad!
+oceantrolls73 Thanks!
hey man what part of the car did you chain the other side too
How/where did you fix the chain on the passenger side?
"I chained the opposite side of the box member and frame, right where the box member was bolted to the frame. This was in effect the same pivot point that the frame in front of the box member rotated around, when hit. I felt this gave the best chance of not pulling anything good out of alignment, and it worked fine. I don't think anything straight was bent..."
Damn Now I have to plant another tree.
I went to a body shop closest one to where I live and they are charging me at least 800$s. When I saw this video, I may try it b/c I have the exactly the same problem. BTW I heard some noise on index 2:57.
What did you anchor to on the passenger side? Thanks!
The other side of the frame is chained to the other tree. It is resting on blocks to stabilize it.
@proto57 the chain just looks like its going straight through the wheel. I have a car with damage, but I'm not able to find an anchor point on the passenger side.
a followup video would be cool, interested in how things worked out.
+John Howington Sorry I missed your comment for so long. Everything worked fine, except of course the car needed an alignment. That is in effect the "fine tuning", after all these cruder methods.
@@proto57 im about to do the exact same job to a T. I just have a question about the alignment? Was the car driven while bent because mine has....😑. If so, did the steering wheel jerk during acceleration and when letting off the throttle?
@@christopherfilipone2327 It was driven while bent, to get it home from Binhamton NY... about 3 hours drive for us. The hood was strapped down, no lights. And I had to put a new radiator in it in a parking lot when it was 28 degrees!
But you were asking if the wheel jerked. Not that I remember, but it did steer a bit funny I think. Nothing stand out bad though. But every single accident would be different.
After I pulled it straight, and got it aligned, it was fine in that regard.
@@proto57 ok thank you. I was only asking about the steering jerk because it seems our accidents and damage were identical. Thank you for the response. That gives me a little hope that she'll be straight again.lol as soon as the weather breaks ill be pulling.
@proto57 what adaptor did you use for to connect them both?
Owen: If you mean the hydraulic connectors between the pump and the puller, I don't know the name, size or type. It was just the type of instant connector that the system uses on the ones sold at Harbor Freight. All of the accessories on these sets, and the puller sold separately, are designed to work together.
Sorry I can't be more specific. Maybe the specs are on the Harbor Freight page?
Good job!!!
The question is where did you tie it down? You could have been pulling the other side apart while doing this.
+Neapolis Good question. I chained the opposite side of the box member and frame, right where the box member was bolted to the frame. This was in effect the same pivot point that the frame in front of the box member rotated around, when hit. I felt this gave the best chance of not pulling anything good out of alignment, and it worked fine. I don't think anything straight was bent...
I was in the wreck and my hood got pulled back and now I can’t open it do you have any ideas to pull it back
Hi again. did the air bags deploy? if so how did you clear the codes from the srs module
Everyone is Gangster until the tree you are pulling against falls on the roof of the car....
I did it once on 1978 VW Beetle in my early bodyman years, the tree came out from the ground the frame did not moved. Since that, I just use the frame machine. Good luck.
Paraphrasing Hooper in Jaws, "I think you need a bigger tree".
My friend we don’t call that hit we call that got blasted
Ha!
Would a 4 Ton work? For the same situation.
I'm really not sure, Octavio. It was because I was not sure, that I went for the larger unit. They are really not that much more expensive, in the scheme of things... so I "hedged my bets" and went for the big one.
But if you already have a 4 ton, it couldn't hurt to try.
Congratulations
I have winch. I hope it works the same
👍 nice job!
Thanks, David, much appreciated.
What exactly did you hook the other tree chain to?
There are two trees, one on each side of the tree. The one to the left is isn't so obvious in the video... but it is the anchor point.
@@proto57, thank you so much for answering.🙂 That would be the same as a jack point, right?
@@patriciamariemitchel I admit I had to look up "jack point", thinking it might be a frame straightening term. But I think you may mean the place on the car that you use to jack the car up with the included jack?
If that is what you are referring to, then no, I didn't use this as a support. I think that they would be far too weak, considering the forces needed to pull the frame.
The tree itself was the anchor, which the chain on the other side was attached to. Then under the (substantial) subframe on that same side of the car, I stacked either wooden or concrete blocks to make certain the frame remained stable and level while pulling from the other side. It did. It didn't move a bit, and nothing bent.
If you do this sort of thing more than once... or, actually, even once it is worth it: One day I went to Home Depot and bought a 12' 4x6 pressure treated beam. I had the guy cut it into 12" lengths. I can't tell you how handy those 12 blocks are, for all sorts of things. They can be stacked... two side by side, next level reversed... and would work here. Not positive I used them here, but they would be great for this.
@@proto57, I looked up anchor point and it was for seatbelts. I don't want to pull on the wrong part of the frame. It's plain that however you did it worked. I wish you would have shown in the video where you hooked the other chain.👀😶🌫️
@@patriciamariemitchel The left chain is wrapped around the other side of the sub-frame member from where I am pulling. This means that the only forces are on the sub-frame, and nothing is on the Volvo's unibody.
The "sub-frame" is that box member that bolts to the uni-body, and supports the engine, transmission, suspension and front bumper. They build them this way so 1) There is adequate strength for the drivetrain and suspension, as the unibody is not strong enough, and 2) so that you can unbolt the subframe to drop and access the engine and transmission.
But any pulling cannot be to the Volvo sheet metal uni-body structure. That is weak, and you would tear metal with such a pull. So no, don't anchor to the jack points, nor to the seatbelt mounts, nor to anything on the body of the car. You should only chain your anchor tree to another part of the actual frame or sub-frame, across from where you are pulling it.
I bought a Honda Accord for $600. I'm not sure it even has a bent frame, thought if it does. It shouldn't be a bad bend. I'm a student & don't make much money so if I have to do this I will 😁
I wonder if it works on a Jeep Wrangler?
Nice job
i did this with a suzuki xl7 but i just tied it to a nother suv hitch and yanked it like 5 times i put it in 4low and let her rip
Thank you for this video
I recently got into a crash and my framed tilted more to the passenger side. I’ve been looking around trying to see what’s the best method, and so far this one seems to be the best. I was wondering did you remove any parts out of the car like the engine, battery, etc? Anyone that can help me out please comment. I just don’t want to break something trying to fix the problem. Thank you.
Hi Maynee: I didn't remove anything but the damaged parts, like the grill and bumper... but you ought to use your own judgment on that. I suppose one could screw up their radiator if something caught it on the way back.
I didn't take anything off because it looked like nothing would be broken... in my case. And I also figured that since I was pulling back the bent parts in a direction as close to the opposite way the damage happened, that it should not hurt anything on the way back.
But like I say, look closely at the path all parts would take, and see what you think. Best of luck... proto.
i cut the tree in my yard last year......need to pull the radiator support of my car now and i got nothing to anchor the puller huhuhu
srry to say he is pulling good but i thing he is open the rail or call bar after he is pulling one by one is comeing very easy
good info, thanks
How well did the car drive/ride/brake etc after this repair? Thank you.
It was really fine. But after the repair, the tires needed to be aligned... because of course the frame was not exactly where it was, and so the car needed a new tire alignment.
... and of course, as good as it looked, it clearly was not perfect. The alignment of the hood and fenders was not exact. I could have spent more time on it, and tweeked it, to get it better... and maybe replaced the fender, which was slightly bent by the impact.
Sorry for missing your post for two years!!!!
from what did you tie the car down from the opposite side was it the frame?
+liani coriano I chained the opposite side of the box member and frame, right where
the box member was bolted to the frame. This was in effect the same
pivot point that the frame in front of the box member rotated around,
when hit. I felt this gave the best chance of not pulling anything good
out of alignment, and it worked fine. I don't think anything straight
was bent...
great job!!!
+Damian young Thanks for the feedback!
Hi. What's the name of that tool you used to put the frame? My car moved 2in, witch I want to fix at home.
Hi Daniel: It is the larger hydraulic kit from Harbor Freight... I think the 10 ton kit. That comes with the pump, and pushers, but not the puller. I bought that from them separately. The total cost for kit and puller was about $250. Here is the 10 ton kit:
www.harborfreight.com/10-ton-super-heavy-duty-portable-hydraulic-equipment-kit-62114.html
Here is the puller (pull back ram): www.harborfreight.com/5-ton-pull-back-ram-33611.html
Best of luck...
@proto57 thanks for your video. i have similar damage to a c30 except one shock twisted from the accident. with your experience do you believe this is salvageable?
Thank you for the comment. I'm sorry, but I would not really be able to know, from your description, if your C30 is salvageable or not. If the shock/strut is twisted, perhaps there are other bent suspension items, too, or the axle and/or knuckle are also damaged.
It would be a matter of really looking around, with he wheel off, and maybe comparing to measurements from the other side?
@@proto57 appreciate you getting back to me. Further inspection revealed it was not twisted. Just the angle made it look like that. I only have one tree to leverage on. Do you think another could be used to keep the vehicle in place while using the tree to pull ?
@@alexbryant5 Yes I think there is no way to secure a vehicle for these huge pulling forces, without two anchors. If you only pull from one tree, I'm sure your car would just slide toward the ram.
@@proto57 do you think another car could hold the car in place or it needs to be able to tolerate 10tonns of pulling force?
I have the same damage on my car and I want to do something similar what did you wrap the chain around on the driver side
??
You go dad!
good job
THANKS FOR THE SHARE :) ,
I'm about to do this with a 10 ton pull rod. What size chain should I use as the 4mm one I had snapped a link. I'm thinking 10mm might be the go but want to make sure before I go buy one.
I'm sorry I would not know off the top of my head... nor do I remember the size of the chain I used... that you see in the video. But probably a google search would get you the pull strength of various chain sizes, so you could make the right choice. Probably anything over 2 or 3 tons strength would do the trick, but I don't want to advise... you have to use your own judgement on that.
That being said, I never stand in the "line of fire", lest anything go "south"!
thanks proto57 i got it sorted. I used an 8mm link size and kept fingers crossed and it worked a treat on a vw Caddy van after it got Tboned in the driver's side door and pushed the bottom hinge in. I wanted to use a 10mm link size but the difference in cost was huge. i've got no idea what stress rating it has but it did the job fine. And yes I stood well out of the way. Cheers from sydney australia.
Excellent job....I just have one question. Why?
It's a 500 dollar car.
First of all, we had $7,000 in the car already, because it cost $5,000 a couple of years earlier, and I had to replace the transmission with a Volvo rebuilt. That cost $900, plus I installed the $240 custom solenoids to avoid the problem the 2001 2002 Aiswan (sp?) tranny's had. Plus new brakes, tires, bearing, rear strut, and much more. To change cars would not mean $500, but starting over at $5,000 or more, and then, fixing everything again on whatever we got.
Second, I like fixing things, and trying new things. I'm a great believer in "Give a man a fish, he eats for a day; teach a man to fish, he eats for a lifetime". Sure, we can discard things each time they seem monetarily pointless. But then, we have to do it again, and again, and again. Where I am in my life, I can fix so many things, so easily, or for that matter, at all, when others must either dump endless funds into them, or simply not do them. So I have a $300 sailboat on a trailer, which is worth $2,500 minimum, because I learned to weld. I could weld the frame. I have an old cuddy Sea Ray, which I could plane the head by myself, rebuild the outdrive, do the wood work, and re-upholster the interior. Was it worth it, to get a boat worth, maybe $1,500? Maybe not, but it was my time, not money... and when it breaks, I know how to fix it... and cheap. I have friends who gave up on their boats after the last $500 bill, which sometimes came two or three times a year.
Thirdly, by trying and posting these ideas... that's fun, too.. others can learn to do this, and maybe do them better, and on projects that are more "worth it", in a monetary sense. As I type this, over a quarter of a million people have viewed it. Maybe there is an antique or classic car out there, that just needs the frame tweeked into position.. or someone with NO money, and a bend car in the yard. Who knows? Now all these people know this is possible to do, with inexpensive tools, right in their yard.
Fourth, I hate the modern attitude that "it takes an expert". Well, always have. Since I was a kid of 14, and bought my first car to restore, I've been told all the millions of ways I could not do things. But just by doing to "the guy" with the $$$$$ laser/computer/special tools, he, and only he, would be able to do the thing. We can only blame ourselves for the complex monstrosities, and proprietary systems that can't be fixed "under the shade tree", and so, slowly become slaves to technology. Ever read The Time Machine? Do you want to be a mechanical Eloi? Not me. I came from a time when people fixed things, could fix things, and I work hard to make sure I can be self-reliant, and not assume I have to run to an expert every time some thing goes fongotz. But that is an attitudinal thing, but might help explain my wanting to do these things.
You can balance and change tires, you know. Replace a transom, rebuild an automatic... align your car as well as that $80,00 machine, or better than it, in your driveway. You can sew a sail that works well, build a boat in your yard... cut lumber if you want, and cast stuff... you can do so much yourself, if you want to...
Is it worth it, monetarily? Sometimes, not always. But that is not the only reason to try.
proto57 the time it took to reply and hopefully enlighten someone.... Priceless!
@@proto57 well said. Note my response to another naysayer. Either do, or do not. I prefer to do. Rich people prefer to not do. Anything. But develop carpal tunnel syndrome from writing checks, and hypertension from worrying about how much money their money is making for them.
Not bad!
Maybe you can attach it to another car?
ur the man
Same thing happened to my 2010 370z but mine was hit on the right and pushed everything to the left about 8 inches. But the thing is that I see where the frame rail connects it broke. So can I just pull it and weld the broken part? Anyone got any ideas thanks
Can you share the repair kit link?
You can find the hydraulic pump kit and puller at Harbor Freight tools. If you don't have one near you, they ship anywhere. Here is the ram kit, with pump: www.harborfreight.com/10-ton-portable-hydraulic-equipment-kit-62114.html
And here is the 5 ton puller, which works with the above kit: www.harborfreight.com/5-ton-pull-back-ram-33611.html
I see the price went up since I did this, but it would still be only about $270. And these tools are great for lots of things, or you could sell them after using them for this. I used it to straighten the rafters in my roof, among many other jobs that I would not otherwise have been able to do.