Stellantis Formally Responded to my Questions on the Demon 170! I'm Confused!
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- Опубликовано: 4 окт 2024
- After weeks of waiting for answers, Stellantis engineers finally responded to me regarding the questions I posed about the Demon 170. Many are questioning how often the engine oil should be changed, what type of oil to use, how to properly break in the engine, what spark plugs are ideal, and multiple other critical things Demon 170 owners should know. The Demon 170 Owners Supplement is extremely vague on many of these topics, so I asked for further clarification from Stellantis. I give you my thoughts on what they said and tell you why I am disappointed.
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Sadly, of course their replies are vague. It's called CYA = Cover your ass (as in cover their ass).
So they can manipulate their answer once something goes wrong, to best suit THEIR needs.
You also mentioned, "If you have a 170, you better not be driving it like a grandma. Dodge built them to race.
My theory is that they did build it in hopes people would park them in their garage and just look at them.
For those that do race them. LIKE YOU.
That is where their vague (CYA) comes into play to help them, get away from any responsibility.
Again, walk away from the car, while the walking it good.
IMO
you keep saying "engineers", I thought all of the SRT team to include "engineers" were fired a couple months ago. Must have been a false story.
DEVISTATING to see that even on the "Last Calls" they wouldn't give us a MANUAL for that Super Stock .. .Their pathet-o-matics that they insisted on putting on some of the best trim options was the determining factor on why I didn't buy these.
Racerx I believe they are referring to checking the quality of oil on the dip stick, if it's jet black, it probably needs to be changed....
I suspect using E85 created your issue with the first engine. I wouldn't use E85 at all. 800+ horsepower would be good enough for me.
Those responses tell me a politician is responding, because he is answering without answering.
Classic corporate lawyerese intended to confound us. They believe the consumer truly is so dumb as to not question or follow up.
I thought they had hired Fauci😂
Yeah, just a bunch of hand waving. Mostly useless answers.
Lawyer likely
That'd be my guess. I highly doubt it's a "quality engineer". They don't work on the vehicles, they look at warranty data and coordinate warranty claims, they have nothing to do with anything in the mechanical or control systems.
As a retired automotive technican, and based upon my own personal experience, I would NEVER go 3,000 miles on the OEM oil on ANY new car raced or not. I have been using high quailty synthetics long before it was vogue, over 40 years now with labroratory analysis on every oil change, and have purchased over 30 new vehicles both gas & diesel in that time period. There are a ton of wear metals generated in a new engine, so my practice it to change the engine oil and filter at 1,000 miles, and then again at 5,000 miles, and then every 5,000 miles thereafter. It usually takes approimately 15,000 miles before the engine wear metals start settling down to normal levels on a gas engine, and closer to 30,000 miles on a diesel engine. That being said, on the cars that I have raced, I too use a 20 run rule. For example, my 2022 Dodge Challenger 1320 had a very proper and exact break-in of 1,500 miles before it hit the track for the 1st time, and had an oil change at 1,000 miles, again at 1,500 miles, and another one at 1,600 miles. It is still showing higher than normal metal content in the oil, but the numbers are coming down. It should be noted that once this car hit 1,500 miles it was never street driven again, it is a dedicated bone stock race car with a single seat from the factory. So are my intervals overkill, yes they are, but oil is so much cheaper than hard parts, labor, down time, and frustration. Plus I have my own vehicle lift in my nice large home shop, so why not! Thanks for the info RacerX, it is much appreciated!
If you're doing race passes change the oil when you're done. And before you start.
As a retired mechanic and machinist, I agree. Also E-85 dilutes the oil, so the change should be sooner. In a nutshell, change the damn oil people! And sooner than later.
While I don’t disagree with changing the oil at 1,000 miles, I’m sure the OEM oil in that thing is synthetic, the same oil they recommend you always use. But again, an extra oil change at 1,000 miles is cheap insurance. Especially for something like the Demon 170.
@CaseAgainstFaith1 I'm pretty sure if you hit WOT throttle and race you now need new oil and new spark plugs. I mean it's racing.
@@PonkyKong Back in the '70's and 80's that's pretty much what we did, new oil & filter before and after every racing weekend event with a street driven car, and on a dedicated race car just after every racing event (or before the next race in any case). Spark plugs on a naturally asipirated car usually got changed about every other racing event. Now adays with far superior lubricants we usually go about every other racing event, or in my case with anaylisis about every 100 miles on the odometer, again, this is of course on N/A cars, I'd change every single race with these 1000hp cars without a doubt! These platitnum and iridium spark plugs can hold up for a while though, I see no reason to change those out that often...
Suggestion for you. Get with Lake Speed Jr, the motor oil geek. See if he wants to do a video series with you analyzing your oil every 500 miles. To see how racing is breaking it down.
I suggested that and my comment kept getting deleted. When they are telling him to check the quality of the oil, they mean, HAVE IT TESTED. I don’t quite understand what is so hard to figure out about that. He’s not a mechanic. He only drives. That’s one problem. But, he’s smart enough to figure it out.
Allegedly..... @@justpray365
@@justpray365there's a huge difference between driving and racing a fast late model plug-and-play car and saying you're a drag racer, as to actually building a car motor tyranny, rear, suspension Etc and saying you're a drag racer I like his videos but from where I come from he's not really a hardcore drag racer although he's a smart guy and trying to stay on the political side of it keeping everything clean and on the up and up and I commend that but that's not going to last nor is the second motor in the car these things are dropping like flies, and as it gets time and closer to the end of the warranty period for the last of these cars they're not going to do anything support is going to be drying up way before then and like another commenter said these cars are going to end up being like the Chrysler turbine car with nothing available for them and 5 or 8 years
@@RPmotorcars
I agree. I’ve built engines, transmissions and rear ends, and suspensions. It makes a huge difference in how you approach things. He has to look for answers from what’s left of the engineering section. I just built a racing turbo 400 for a 68 Camaro. I can tell the guy everything that’s in it, and how to run it. I built a narrowed NASCAR Daytona style 9 inch for the same car. Been in it for 8 years now. He needs to learn how to build it before he’ll understand what it takes to run it.
You get exactly what I'm talking about there's a difference and a huge difference of being in it versus doing it and I'm not looking to knock the guy but he's just a guy that runs and drives a fast Plug and Play Late Model muscle car @@justpray365
When stellantis says "Check the quality of the oil" they don't mean send it off for analysis, they mean check for thickness, color, and condition in comparison to what it was before your race.
My thoughts as well.
Thank you
Or "Oil Life" via the infotainment system since it's supposed to be using an algorithm based on how you've been driving to determine oil quality.
Exactly. As was mentioned in the video, this is a production vehicle. No one would be going to the extreme of getting tests done on the oil. It's not to be expected as an owner should not need to do this.
@@just_some_internet_guy that's like saying if you turn your production vehicle to a track vehicle and you can continue to treat it like a production vehicle. It's a production vehicle meant to race. And they are trying to not be too specific because everyone treats their vehicle differently.
Man I commend you for still having that car. It is beautiful and I think the research goes a long way
I'm surprised someone still works for them that can answer questions.
Yea many of those guys got let go unfortunately
It was “Sam” in Bangladesh that emailed him back
Dodge is done after 2024. Hopefully someone buys them. Stelantis is WEF/ sold out NWO. Forget them.
Hellllooo. Theese is Jeeessika. Cow kanna I heelppe u
@@justpray365Even youtube trying to help me translate this comment lol
What you have been going through gives a whole new meaning to "breaking" in your car......
RacerX: I have a few questions I would like you to answer....
Stellantis: Looks at first question and shakes Magic 8 ball to provide the answer. 🧐🎱
Purposely vague so they can pick and choose what they do and don't warranty. It's that simple.
If they give a definitive answer, then they'll be forced to adhere to that in regards to warranty work
Thank you for the updates. Racer x please ues your best judgment. Enjoy this car and drag race when you can. Dodge put these engines through the ringer for you so you can use it how you want to.
Change your oil as much as you can. Drive it on the street and enjoy putting miles on it. If you drag race and beat on it a lot, change it more often.
The vagueness of those answers is most likely for warranty purposes. They don't want to give you clear answers you can usd for claims. They keep the power to say no for their reasons!
I respectfully suggest you clarify those plug gap measurements. In one sentence and graphic you are talking about millimeters, then in the next graphic you are talking about thousandths of an inch. Very important to understand which measurement system you are using. Good luck with the new mill.
Yep Stelantis specs are right in line with what a boosted car should have he just got the units mixed up.
Stop at the 1/8 mark, change oil, then run it out the back. Perfect. I got it. Thanks for the information Dodge.
Sounds like your response was written by a committee of lawyers. Law office of CYA.
Checking the quality of the oil should mean seeing how dirty its getting. You change oil when its dirty, not because it has "broken down". I dont imagine it would change much after a couple runs at the track.
RacerX,
Always good to hear your
opening line “ Welcome back everyone, RacerX here “. And it just gets better and better from there. Watching other content is like watching ketchup poor from a newly opened bottle. They take so long to make a point ,l grow cobwebs under my chin watching them. Thx for excellent wall to wall food for thought. Another excellent show by the Xman. Hope you find consistent 8’s in your future.
Great content Racer X, thank you for the video.
It makes sense to me, if they give hard set rules and the car blows again, then you can hold them responsible for doing what they told you and puts the fault back on them. If the engine blows again with vague answers, they can claim you didn't follow the rules and that they aren't responsible.
Break-In is mainly getting those rings set.
We have a ram TRX in our shop with 3252 miles with the same problem you have. Soon as I drained the oil, I saw 1 and a half rod bearing material, piston 8 was the worst. All hellcat engines should’ve been dry sump oil and that’s my stance.
racer X thank you for the information for the Demon 170 I think basically we got to use common sense the folks that own these cars and understand there’s a little bit more maintenance and change the oil a little bit more often for peace of mind but all in all for all the folks out there that are beating the Demon 170s to death you all should move on and find something else to do. Obviously you weren’t born to own a Demon 170
Racer x keep up the great content I commend you for trying and putting the information out there Demon 170s the last and best American muscle car👍
FrankieD SRT in Germany 🇩🇪. My brother, the ideal color of oil is Caramel. Plus, wearing oil has a slightly burnt smell to it. That’s the Viscosity breakdown smell of the oil. Now, I’m speaking from a conventional oil perspective but, synthetic should follow a similar rule. If your oil is turning darker quicker, then of course it’s time for a change. I’ve been a mechanic for many years and raced back in the 80’s but synthetic oil is designed not to break down as fast so that’s why the frequency was extended. Put pure synthetic oil in. No additives needed. Penzoil is a good one with fewer. Reason why it’s recommended. Keep it in mind, recommended, not mandated. I hope that this clears it up a little bit. Love you bro 😎.
Basically speaking, the Redeye JB and ‘18 Demon/Super Stock is the way to go
@user-px5bh8zt7s. You pick 3 slower Dodge models as the way to go? Do you happen to have one of these Demon 170's? If yes i will help you out and trade you my Challenger Redeye for it.
@@dm7254001 i have a last call Redeye WB JB. Its the highest trim available here in UAE. And it has a much higher top speed than any other hellcat variant.
Its also more reliable than a 170 and is much more practical.
Dont be a hater.
I'm surprised to learn somebody was able to answer your questions, albeit with some vague responses. It appears I was wrong in a previous comment I made in another video. It seems the 2018 Demon is more practical to use than the Demon 170. Who has the time to send off oil samples every time you race the car...? Sounds like an inconvenient PITA to me... IMO, you're better off with a dedicated race car, equipped with a dedicated race engine/oil pump configuration. Great video, Racer X!
Yeah agree, or just put a dry sump on it and make sure everything is e85 compatible. This will make it a dedicated race car and especially because that’s what it is. To bad dodge won’t bite the bullet admit their flaw in the design and allow people to retain the warranty searching the aftermarket for a solution or fix the problem in house.
With whipple, they recommend to switch to 5w50 when you add their blowers to mustangs and camaros.
While its on warranty i would get the oil changed at an authorized dealership and keep the receipts in a folder.
I’m blown away at how many people have no FCkin clue what Breaking in an Engine actually is! The ENGINE will BREAK IN ON ITS OWN BY SIMPLY RUNNING IT! Breaking in an Engine Simply means it is at its PEAK EFFICIENCY!!!!! You DO NOT NEED TO BABY AN ENGINE FOR IT TO BREAK IN!! It does that by simply spinning!!!! Not BABYING AN ENGINE WILL NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES CAUSE IT TO FAIL BECAUSE OF BREAKING IT IN A CERTAIN WAY!! Change the Start up oil out of it and (SEND IT)
We always dyno our engines to check for leaks then check the egt temps to make jetting changes for optimal air fuel ratios and once that's done timing is checked then they let the engine cool down to heat sink a few times then full on engine pulls & the dyno operator can actually see on the graph charts when the rings are seated . The engine needs to have a load put on it to seat the rings properly . It also depends on what type of rings are being used & what type of hone is used for a specific ring package so the rings will seat correctly. You would think that Dodge or whoever builds these engines would run them on some sort of dyno be it a engine dyno or chassis dyno to put a load on the engine to break the engine in & seat the rings so it's ready to race especially with how much these cars cost . Engines that don't get properly broke in tend to use more oil and have more blowby and will tend to have more ring wash where the fuel is going past the rings & ends up in the oil diluting the oil which thins the oil down . Too much ring wash from incorrect jetting or to much full added with fuel injection will cause cylinder wear damage because the fuel is literally washing the oil off of the cylinders and rings . The Brits on the old triumph motorcycles used to use Chrome rings for the engines & found out that it took way longer for the rings to seat in that also caused a lot of oil burning and consumption and also found out that the chrome rings wore the cylinders out faster so they eventually dropped the chrome rings and went to regular cast iron piston rings to fix these problems they were having . Drag cars always need to have the oil changed more frequently because of the excess fuel from WOT and short runs so it's always better to change it more often . K&N filters used to make oil filters for cars and trucks that used a fine screen for it's filtering capabilities and it could be taken apart to inspect the screen for metal particles and cleaned to be used over & over again but I'm not sure if they still make these types of oil filters or not anymore but back in the day a lot of racers used them to keep an eye on what was going on internally with the engines far as metal particles and chips that would tell them it's time to tear down & rebuild before the engine grenades.
My dad and grandpa both built racecar engines and they would both tell you you're full of shit.
@@bobholland9924 Love it! My Daddy said this! My Pop Pop said that! My Buddy said this! My Cousin’s Sister’s Brother’s Nephew said that!! But what the F-k do you say keyboard warrior! If you had experience you would say I this or I that!! Adult conversation here stay out of it!!!
.6 gap there talking about is in mm (.6mm) = .024 inches. .82mm =.032 inches
Sending your oil out to get checked would be a safe thing to do. However, quick and dirty at the end of each track day pull the dipstick and smell it. If it doesn’t smell like oil anymore, you need to change it. That will go to your experience as the driver Ethanol has a very distinct smell and you can tell if you’re oil is ethanol fouled.
We are slowly learning that no matter the brand, new cars as a whole are declining in reliability and the manufacturers only care about your money. Hang on to your older cars as long as you can.
My recommendation would be to do an oil analysis for every oil change. This will give you a sense on how the engine break in is going and will give you more insight as to when you should be changing the oil base on how you are driving the car. Checking the dipstick for the quality of the oil is probably recommended in the event you have coolant entering the oil. If you pull the dipstick and see a metallic sheen in the oil at the end of the stick the motor is already hurt. Changing the oil at that point will not fix your engine.
FYI in my experience as long as you get the car up to operating temp any ethanol that happens to get in the fuel burns off. I did a video on Blackstone analysis from my car that ran E85 for a year without an oil change. Also, all Stellantis has to do is get these cars past their warranty period, that's why there are no definitive answers. We have to use our experience to know what's best long term. Kinda bad for the guys that lack that experience so we'll have to help educate. Official Stellantis plug gap is now .024" and will be set by dealer if car experiences misfires.
I love your videos and your car. It's a car with so much drama though. I feel you'll keep it because you love it. That's a great thing!
Expecting exact or specific answers on a performance race car is completely unreasonable. OF COURSE they will answer in a way that always puts the responsibility back on the customer…. ANY company would have responded identically.
Ok
Checking oil level and quality are done at the same time.
Visually seeing the change in color of the oil. From translucent to black.
I change it before it gets dark
Best break in is hard and short on an engine. 15w50 is what you want here in the south. They won’t tell you to not run 0w40 because of epa.
Legal, will always be subjective with their answers! You have a significant platform and they have to protect the organization.
I guess I’m crazy.
Two new F150 that I had built.
Both got their first oil change 1000km!!
Then I had the oil tested for metal and every 50,000km I test again!!
It’s my engine to take care of!!
You can test the oil viscosity on your own. Launch the car and datalog the oil pressure. If it dips considerably, then you have your answer.
“Check the oil quality” AKA if something happens we may not be responsible.
'you didn't follow proper oil change maintenance'
you never specified that schedule
'it's not our fault u can't read our minds, warranty VOIDED'
It’s an engine that was marketed to be abused. Even non-street legal race engines break. Wouldn’t expect them to be very specific, but as long as there aren’t any signs of negligence, they probably still honor the warranty. They can’t police these owners so why be super specific about maintenance???
Here's an answer to the quality question. When you pull the dipstick you can see the ethanol in the oil because it looks milky on the stick. If it's really milky (not coolant milky but it's pretty obvious) and it's not a constant amount of passes. The plug gap is probably .6MM(.022)
As a mechanic i’m running with a Whipple supercharger also E85 if you’re able to change your own oil it’s best you do this way you get to see what comes out and I prefer mobile one and my car is putting down some serious power but it’s always good to the check the oil….. but anytime I take it to the track I replace it. That’s my personal preference. Also, don’t forget about transmission fluid.😊
Once the rings seat what else is left? Which should only take 50-80 miles. Generally. Send it! You could do oil analysis program.
I've had oil analysis done on every oil change for the past 40 years on over 30 vehicles, and I can personally tell you that the wear metals do not settle down to normal levels on gasoline engines until after approximately 15,000 miles, and approximately 30,000 miles on diesel engines. This is why I have always changed my vehicles at 1,000 miles, again after 4,000 miles (5,000 on the odometer) and every 5k after that (much more often on cars that are raced).
I stand by my earlier recommendation on oil change intervals. (as well as when to safely start drag racing it at the track) One thing to keep in mind, E85 is not as clean as you might think.. when it burns in the combustion chamber, it produces corrosive acids as a byproduct. When these acids get into the oil, they promote sludge formation. Particularly in the ring lands of the pistons. If you are not racing it, don’t use E85. That includes during the break-in period. As the engine ages and loosens up, you will have more blow by past the piston rings. Oil contamination from E 85 will occur quicker at that point. If you spend the day making several passes, that is why it is all the more important to change the oil after that day.
There is a another youtuber that has a black Demon170 that less than 600 miles onit and he raced from day 1 and always ran E85. Hes changed the oil 4 times. He has had no problems.
I saw that guys video.
If I had one of those cars , I would be more concerned about being aware of your surroundings and it being a magnet for getting car jacked by future engineers and scientists for intersection takeovers donuts, shenanigans, and high speed police chases resulting in it being totalled. I can just imagine what it costs for full coverage insurance😂
0W-40 is thick? Its thinner @ below freezing where its 0 but at operating temps its 40 weight oil which is thick. 20W-50 is what a friend of mine runs in his 7 sec C6
I'd test out Archoil or Lucas Fuel additives with E85 in a glass container. If it mixes well then consider using the recommended mix. It can extend the life of the Fuel pump & injection system✌️😎☯️
Sorry RacerX, but they answered your questions. If you built a brand new engine. When you start it for break-in and a first heat cycle, you change the oil. Also 0w oil is ONLY for fuel economy, not for ANY kind of racing!
They can’t tell him that real race engines use Redline or Torco oil. Big brother the government would come down hard on them. He’s too nice and naive about “building a race engine”. Sure, he’s driven one. But building one that stays together is when you’re a real racer.
“ a real racer “ lol gtf over yourself
Just use the best shit oil wise redline or something along those lines and check it constantly and change it half of whatever they recommend especially if your running the car Top Fuel Hemis those guys don't wait to do anything maintenance wise same principle
0w is for when you live in a place that gets colder than -20°f or -30°c. When the ambient temperature is colder than what is above and on cold engine cold oil start up so the oil gets circulated as quickly as possible to prevent startup damage.
Most manufacturers recommend to do your first oil change at 1500 miles and considering the Demon 170 is a race car you should probably change it at every 1000 miles until its broken in because that's when its going to have the most metal in your oil, 3000 miles seems like a long time especially for a car with over 1000 horsepower.
🏆Racer X🏆you're the 🍀man 👀✌️
Just check oil on the dip stick for durty or metallic look . Change oil right away
If you can see it on the stick your engine is already toast!
The lego 11031s darwinism never cease to amaze
Pal I'm 75, but back in the day used have fun with my cars, long before these new fangled vehicles , but oils ain't oils as Castrol used to say. But I always got to smell and rub between my fingers brand new oil before topping up my motor. i don't know about these days but long ago oils used to be high detergent liquids, hence the darkening showed how much contamination was present, the smell change will indicate high temps but gauges will alert you to this and is something you will to adjust to, the viscosity is how slippery it is between your fingers hence smelling and rubbing new oil . Any if's or buts change it, if as some say check for milkyness your already in trouble, that's with oils from yore or olden days. The engines I'm referring to I was running over seven thousand all the time and did not have a failure due to oil, come to think of it did not have an engine failure, diffs and boxes different. I have not done any of this in a long time , so can't relate to todays engines etcetera, but never had a problem when changed from a few of the more recognised oils to CASTROL, don't know if they have grades for your application, but try to see, smell and feel what is happening to the oil in your engine, you'll be surprised how much you will find out about it in time. This can all be accomplished via your dipstick without analysis every time you run, I'm not saying don't have it analysed, but if your worried for a spot check you will be surprised what your eyes, nose and touch can tell you.
Good luck with the 170, and remember if in doubt change it, cheaper than alternative.
I’ve noticed in my turbo ls car with a Holley running e85 that when the oil start breaking down my oil pressure also goes down. Then with a fresh oil change it goes back up. Also the oil looks and acts watered down. I’m sure they didn’t want to explain but just fyi this may help with your car.
You dealing with people that don’t know anything about our stuff, so good luck with it.
They built the freaking car.
So if you go racing treat the car like a high horsepower drag race car check the computer take it back let it cool off check oil before every race. Kinda sounds like they are seeing it in that direction. RACERX
Checking oil quality is easy,visual.....no shiny shit or off white residue which could be coolant,level full. Feel.....take oil on stick between 2 fingers and rub, if you do this often enough, you can start feeling a difference in viscosity and fine grit. Smell it, does it smell burnt or off?
Nice video. Just an FYI...I have the Hellcat RDP and find the included self-indexing compensator mitigates recoil a bit, the trigger is improved, and the installed red dot is an excellent addition. I love S&W too, but It's tough to compare since I have no experience with the basic versions.
They had to say yes to the 0-40 oil even if heavier viscosity would be better because to say otherwise would probably get them in trouble with the EPA.
A good friend of mine drag races on E 99 and he uses Brad Penn 2050 and it is a 427 Chevy on EFI Ali and he changes oil halfway through the season and According to him he races about 15 weekends and probably gets anywhere from 10 to 20 passes a day Saturday and Sunday and some NHRA events there's probably 3 days and probably I would say 50 passes for a three day week I know it's not a demon R170 but it's just alternate information
Racer X, I really do admire your over the top approach to properly break in this motor and do everything right. Honestly man, I think you'd be way better off selling this thing while you still can. Hell even make a few bucks on it for all the headache and let down I wouldn't blame ya. I think a badass Viper would be an awesome addition to the channel. Maybe even an ACR and do some track stuff rather than a straight line, spice it up.
Sounds like you’re being very thorough with taking care of the car and your bases are covered. You are going above and beyond what any normal consumer could be expected to do. Shouldn’t have to have a team of engineers and mechanics to own the car
Don’t know why you’re having a hard time understanding what they told you. Plain and simple directions 🤷🏽♂️
I agree. He wants to create content and it shows by how all the sudden he can't understand plain English. SMH!!!!
I giggle at break in procedures, I would like to know what they are breaking in, because breaking in the rings requires very little time and should be done before the engine is put in the car.. If you want to watch and engine break in go to a national NHRA event and watch them rebuild the engine every pass, the break in procedure lasts less then 10 minutes
That's what engine dynos are for to heat sink the engine & to put a load on the engine to seat the rings . Our dyno guy can tell when the rings are seated by the chart graphs he gets with each pull on the engine and that's when the power also goes up with timing & jetting changes or changes to the injection controller to add or take away the fuel where needed .
Looking at the oil on the dipstick is a decent representation of the condition of the oil. When running e85, you will see a more greyish tone to it. On just 93, the oil will just get a darker brown as it gets more contaminated.
Maybe you can figure that when they say to “check the quality of the oil” they mean to see if it’s dirtier than normal on the dipstick while you are checking the level. Race that car and have fun!!
Checking oil quality means what it looks like on the dipstick and if it smells like fuel
Yes it does, that is what you do when you have a car, motorcycle, or anything performance oriented that is making power and you are taking care of it. Glad you know that too.
@@christopherfowler1549 I'm a tech thats why I know that
Hey RacerX I wanted to clarify the spark plug gaping for you. Stelantis is saying 0.6mm which is 0.0236”. The ngk spec you showed on screen was in inches showing 0.028” as a minimum and 0.030” as nominal. The 0.8mm figure you quoted is 0.0315”. So it looks to me as Dodge has the correct spark plug gap you just got the units mixed up.
Good luck with sale.
More the better on the oil changes. Another RUclipsr said he has changed his 6 times in 600 miles all at the track. Take that however you may. Good information though.
Supposedly normal drive conditions as advertised after break in is 1/4 mile runs!
They politely washed their hands of the situation and put any further issues on the owner of the Demon 170
BETTER to do it earlier than not!!!!! If someone car afford the price of the car they can do early oil changes. A dealer here has one for sale and price is 225 grand.
E85 does not dilute the oil as long as you drive car to full warm up every start. I have had blackstone labs oil analysis on my e85 Mustang and no e85 dilution in oil at 5k miles.
After all those issues I continue with my Mach 1.
Check the oil feel the oil smell the oil taste the oil
As far as oil changes go do what you can afford. If you can afford an oil change after ever track day do it. Definitely use ngk plugs. The gap on factory plugs are too big and the spark is literally being extinguished under load.
We do the first oil change after 30 minutes of running. Than we change it again at a thousand miles. No such thing is over kill.
Well, they were very "helpful". LOL. Good luck RacerX.
RacerX, for the spark plugs I noticed you were using both metric and imperial numbers in your statement. .82 and .6 is in millimeters, and the .028-.030 was inches. .82mm is about .033 and .6mm is about .024"
Get with lake speed jr with your engine oil via speediagnostics
If the manufacturer made the bearing tolerances to a 40 viscosity oil and it is not adequate enough to keep it lubricated they are going to have problems they should have set them to 20w50.
Checking the quality of the oil would require a sample being sent off to a lab & you probably wouldn't get the results for weeks, I guess at that point you would either need to let the car sit & wait for the results or constantly change to new oil
There are many variables to consider regarding break-in procedures. I wouldn’t expect them to be super specific bc of that. And there isn’t a way for Dodge to enforce a more iron clad maintenance policies….It can also be It can be assumed that there are two main 170 owners: Collectors who will barely drive the car and hardcore racers who should know how to maintain the car.
@13:43 you can visually see the quality of the oil. I think you’re overthinking it. You can even rub a little on your fingers from the dipstick to check if the film is still good.
Just run it... keep doin what you doing... the quality maybe there just saying as long it not milkie or there is metal shaving your good... I'd do first 500 then every 1500 miles as needed...awsome car wish I had 1 in my collection...
Well thanks for sharing. I think I’ll pass on a Demon170 even though I would be street driving only. Thanks again.
Everyone’s duty cycle is different.
Can’t know for sure what the oil condition is unless tested by a lab.
This is same thing for off road bikes and UTVs. They just do a very conservative estimate on oil change intervals
I've never seen someone make a mountain out of an ant hill....
1. Change the oild sooner than later and as for oil analysis - just collect the drained oil and send it to the lab! You don't have to pull oil between oil changes! Not rocket science!
2. For engine break in - just do multiple hard acceleration passes a few times a week up to the first 1500 miles and you should be seating the rings plenty well into the cylinders! No babying mileage what so ever. Drive it hard from the start and it should be fine! I've done this with every one of my cars and not one ever had an issue!
Not sure why people are trying to 'read between the lines' based on what Stellantis is saying. Just change it more often and do oil analysis. If you can't afford all that cost, then you shouldn't have bought the car!
It is not that hard folks!!!!
Here's an idea:
Racing oil at the track
Over the road oil off the track
By quality I think they mean it shouldn't look burnt or black on the towel.. But he's right there's no way to test it.. I know the cars not going to be mad at you for keeping the oil fresh though.. Even the weekend warriors should be checking their oil and changing it more often I would think.. Like if your at 1000 miles and then you have a weekend where you are hard on the car, like very hard on the car it's probably ok to change the oil early.. To each his own though..
U can feel and smell the quality of the oil. Just compare against some new. Just wipe off dipstick with your fingers and rub and smell. Bad oil won't have the same smoothness feel and it will smell really gassy
Also it's just an engine. No different then any other. Treat it the same. Running 8k rpms for 10sec isn't any worse then running 2k rpms for 1hr down the freeway.
@@TexasAirGunnerwow congratulations! You and your Brilliant Wisdom just put Oil Analysis companies out of business! Damm it’s that easy! Just rub oil in your fingers! Holyshit i guess everyone else is such a FCKin clown??
Dodge always had a oil starvation my scatpack went out on the infamous lifter problem and ate my cam and to preventit to happen again i got lifters with oil lubrication holes on the top and bottom and upgraded my oil pump to make sure my lifters dont seize up again
They're getting their answers by shaking the all mighty globe, 😅
Racerx go to a dry sump system
& u will have pleny of oil even on a launch when racing.
My 3rd gen DEMON Toyota Tacoma got its first oil change at 545 miles second at 2500 miles.
I bought tickets and never had a spot for 3x code. Was a little disappointed 🇨🇦
If you have a trained eye and nose, you can monitor the quality of the oil on your own. They are somewhat vague for liability reasons
Hey Racer X, todays my birthday 🎂
Happy Birthday my friend
🏆🍀🤡✌️
Happy Birthday, fellow Gemini! Mine is on the 15th!
@@SovereignKnight74 thank you