Very educational, exactly what these channels should be about. Refreshing to watch, think we are all getting a bit fed up with criticising someone else’s work and pushing vans up hills. Chris gave a good presentation, providing valuable information on the benefits of ELV lighting supported by diagrams. Been good to have seen the testing regime that was adopted and how that is applied between the different voltages and mitigation required not to damage electronic components through IR testing at any voltage level.
Tip with the rope is use the end from the center of the bale and if you lay the bale on the floor make sure the outside tail is pointing anti-clockwise looking the the letter "e" on the floor and when you pull the rope from the center it will spool out easy and not knotting up or tangling
Love that the lighting guy went thru the difference of ELV & LV, serial & parallel wiring. Really beautiful setup with the zoning & wiring. From the US & always enjoy how you wire lighting etc. there. I can see why Artisan Electronics is chosen to do the “High End” jobs.
@@dankelley9361 we've certainly sent lights to the US a few times. 350mA drivers are both available out there and we can send them with 110v inputs. 15V lights are just more popular where you are 😅
Very nice and refreshing! At the risk of sounding pretentious, I live in (West) Hollywood, California and see a lot of expensive -- generally (far) over the top -- garden lighting. This here was, for me, refreshing and a reminder of what garden lighting should be: functional, thoughtful, and (by US-of-A standards) understated. The icing on the cake is that quality, home grown products are used without any sacrifices! Indeed, and perhaps more importantly, products engineered with an eye towards maintainability & repairability. Kudos to Hudson Lighting! (BTW, I grew up near the Vans hq in Costa Mesa, CA. I keep on thinking I should get some swag for Lee.)
Really enjoyed this video! As a recently qualified electrician, this was great advice and will definitely be using extra low voltage for garden lighting in the future. Thanks guys 👌
Absolutely love everything that Hudson Lighting stand for. Well made, quality products that work well and are easily repairable. And they've not outsourced production abroad - fantastic stuff!
I missed a disadvantage to constant current. If the cable is damaged or a light is entirely faulty it will bring out the whole loop. Parallel it would normally work up to the break point. Lights that have a minor failure tend to bring just the one light out on some brands. Ours have a gold wire bypass which works 90% of the time. Currently working on a bypass in the protection circuit to work 99.999% of the time although can't deal with the cable damage bit
It's a major disadvantage, if you installed the cabling system poorly, didn't document the cable runs, or had poor-quality fittings. It's a bit of a pain if you did a good job though. A bit of intelligence in the circuit could handle the circuit going open - and the resulting damage.
Absolutely love everything that Hudson Lighting stand for. Well made, quality products that work well and are easily repairable. And they've not outsourced production abroad - fantastic stuff!. you have won a new viewer . wel done guys
Brilliant video guys! The quality is 2nd to none! Great explanation from Chris also! Very informative. I feel embarrassed that we’ve been fitting 230V garden lighting now. That ends today! 😅
Love this video so far but for some reason in this video i keep hearing ducks instead of ducts so i keep gettin confused for a second every now and again til my brain realise oh its ducts
Do you know I never thought of series lighting as having any use besides Christmas tree lights. Fascinating how it works. Also I love the subtle elegance of that lighting. Not garish over the top stuff. Subtle and refined.
Well said regards extra low voltage lighting. I was wondering initially if it was going to be series wiring. The 4-20mA instrumentation wiring is a good example regarding looooong cable runs. Davo Savo did a cracking video on the really sad death of the kid at the pub.
I smiled when that comment was made. As an industrial electrician we have come across this on large supplies but from memory it refers to single core armoured. The armouring can only be earthed at one end and into an insulated land plate at the other. The Eddie currents would flow round the armouring as you would have made a big transformer if both ends were shorted out. You are talking 3/400a supplies though. It’s common on transformer tales I think
Oh man we put the tall plastic lamp post in our driveway and they really stick out. I wish I had seen there short poll lights on the driveway I would have got these. Great job and amazing property. Very kept property but still looks natural.
13:10 why not using rcd in order to secure 230v circuits here in germany you have to use them for some years now it is not allowed without one and it is defacto standard like 1985 at least at my parents house that was build that year and they had one installed from the beginning. and it works really simple power flowing through it into the circuit and returns over the neutral, if it senses that it is not flowing back for example you touching a wire and the current flows through your body to the ground/earth it sees current running in to the circuit but not returning over the neutral ad klick it is out and it is enough if there is just 30mA then it trips, you can even get ones with 10mA. I am always amazed to see these are not mandatory worldwide today at it is an really easy way to have a save installation. you can use lower voltage but then the rest of the installation still has this flaw. 23:50 you don´t have to use ferrules with this kind of wagos.
Never mind the main supply coming through different holes, why wasn't the correct main switch used on a TNCS supply. Garden looks amazing and nice to see ELV used, it's hard to get customers to see the benefits until they've had a fault or shock from mains powered but ELV is the way to go and the only thing worth installing.
If the driver maintains 350ma throughly the string, the longer that string is, and/or the more LEDs in series, surely the voltage has to rise in response to that?
Liking the explanation of low voltage and extra low voltage by the Hudson guy..even though Jordan got it wrong himself, calling the extra low voltage lighting 'low voltage' yup, he should pay a forfeit for that alone 😉 Ah, the Artisan standard 😁
Just been looking at Eddy current effects by the amazing John ward, it seems like its such a minimal impact of any thermal issues ! Makes me think that some regs are there for ... just being regs !! Ive never put tails through seperate 20mm knockouts but even in J.W's test with a 100amp load it crept up by 2 degrees !! I think on a hot sunny day the csu would get warmer than that , especially if situated in a closed cupboard or a garage.
No. What JW measured was a 2 degree C increase. The magnitude of that increase doesn't change with ambient temperature. So if the ambient temperature is 20°C then the final temperature is 20 + 2 = 22°C If the ambient air temperature is 34°C , as could be in a hot summer, then the final temperature is 34 + 2 = 36°C. That delta of 2 degrees is not a function of temperature.
How about EMI (ElectroMagneticInterference) with series lights? I really hate SMPS LED drivers because most of them use what is called spread spectrum switched mode power supply and basically smear the switching over a wide range of frequencies causing all kinds of EMI problems. In some of my ELV (Extra Low Voltage) projects I had to reside to expensive military grade of laboratory grade power supplies or even batteries to get rid of the EMI. Is there some standard that tells you how much EMI those ELV LED drivers emit? And are there lineair ELV LED drivers for low EMI purposes? I mean I know they comply with national standards but in my experience those national standards are usually not good enough.
26:52 Really great to see that the LED is user-replaceable. Having to replace an entire fixture when the bulb dies is extremely wasteful. Something else worth mentioning is that with series lighting, if one of the LEDs does die, then all of the lights on the chain will go out. And finding the dead one will be not so straightforward. That’s a much bigger downside than the lack of hot-swappability IMO.
have to say I skim watched this whilst having my tea, so you may have covered it, but if not - with series constant current installations what happens when a lamp (or node) fails? I have years of experience with airport runway and taxiway lighting where we use constant current to ensure all lamps illuminate equally, but each node has a transformer to allow the system to continue with a lamp failure. That necessitates the system to be AC driven obviously but the principal is the same.
Some lights pull the whole system out. Some have a bypass. We have a good wire bypass which works 90% of the time. Working on a new protection circuit to work 99.999% of the time
It’s funny how”instagram”boy acts like he knows his shit when the camera is on him, then proceeds to unwind 200’ of cable from the outside of the roll lol!
The price for some outside lighting is absurd , had a quote back from a brand a couple of lights in the steps , one light to go in the drive couplr for planter 14,500 quid and they called back to change it as they forgot to add the 75 pound delivery charge 👍
When those blue ropes does not have a drum and is wrapped in plastic. Do not remove the plastic whatever you do. make a hole in either side and pull the rope from the inside. They are not designed to be rolled out but pulled from the inside. Unfortunatley that willalso twist the rope when you take it out though you can mitigate that by untwisting it when you pull it out.
Great video guys and excellent result! I agree with Chris on using ELV for outside lighting, it's a no-brainer! Your products look and sound great and being in Epsom myself, you're fairly local! (Done a fair bit of work Coulsdon way, one of my ex's is from there and I explored round the big derelict Cane Hill asylum years ago!) Will definitely be checking your lighting range out next garden lighting project I get! 🙂
The explanation on parallel vs series circuit arrangements for lighting LEDs was slightly correct but more so incorrect. A series arrangement would in-fact make LEDs in the circuit dimmer. When applying KCL to a series circuit, it can be observed that each node only possesses two connections. The current into each node must be equal to the current exiting, thus current is constant through each LED in a series circuit. In series, resistance sums proportionally to the resistance of each component. When applying KVL in a series circuit, the equivalent voltage of the source must be dropped across the entire chain, inferring that if the source voltage is not great enough to meet the circuit demands, LEDs in the circuit will be less bright due to the increasing resistance which reduces the amount of current flowing. In comparison, parallel circuits provide a constant voltage drop across all components but current divides through each branch depending on its resistance. Resistance in parallel is the inverse of the sum of the inverse of each components resistance. Assuming that each branch contains an equal resistance (all LEDs are the same), all LEDs in the circuit will glow at the same brightness regardless of how many branches the circuit contains due to the decreasing resistance which permits a greater current to flow.
You've missed some fairly important aspects about the design with your Kirchhoff analysis, especially the type of power supply used and the resistance of the cables to each LED.
Presumably as you add more lights in series, the constant current driver must increase its output voltage to maintain the same current in the circuit - how high does that go, is it (open circuit) still less than 50V DC? (and therefore how many lights can you put in series?)
120v DC is the max for ELV which is 42W at 350mA. So the max is 42W that you could have on a circuit. I'd recommend sizing circuits to 35W as drivers are easily available. The majority of these lights were 3W. Along the path was 4 lights so just 12W of load. Plenty of capacity to add more down the line. Plus artisan wired 4 core leaving two cores spare for future
@@HudsonLighting That is excellent, thank you - ah yes I forgot 120V DC is still ELV (whereas 50V is for AC). Must admit I'd still not want to get across 120V DC; where I work we used to have a 50V DC battery backup supply for critical kit, all distributed with open-frame fuse panels. I came in contact with it many times and it gives quite an unpleasant nip, so I don't like to think what 120V DC would feel like. Perhaps there is less risk of fibrillation, hence the higher voltage permitted for DC ELV? Lovely lights by the way - extremely stylish and I sincerely appreciate that you have designed them to have replaceable LEDs, I think it is ridiculous that we throw away whole fittings because the LEDs or built-in drivers are not repairable.
@@HudsonLighting if I’m not mistaken the gent is incorrect, these are not wired in series they’re wired in parallel? Same as downlights for example Just the wattage of the driver that is limiting you though is that right?
@@rossthompson1635 I do tend to agree with you. I had a customer once put our lights on a 100W driver. If the driver was at full load the circuit would be sitting at 285V DC. If you design with smaller drivers then the max output voltage is less. It will only ever be at the max if it's under full load too. We most commonly sell 20W drivers and those will sit at 57V if they have 20W of lights on them
@@ja_adam_ downlightd etc or conventional connections like sockets are all parallel. Constant current lights are always series wired (black feeding the next red etc,). I think that's what you mean unless you were referring to something else @ja?
@@ja_adam_ no i doubt it, I actually don't know If you can get low voltage emergency lights, it would have been a good idea if the customer willing to pay
I think I'd stick with parallel lighting where possible, do the series lights bypass themselves if they are blown, so you can keep the others on or is it like an old set of fairy lights, where one goes out and the lot go off? :)
@@HudsonLightinghat's really good because this issue is pretty much only one I have against series wiring. Can you explain how gold wire bypass works? And permanent bypass - not much into electronics, but judging by the way of how CC driver works, is that a Schottky diode in parallel with LED and threshold just a hair over it?
@@Kinnikinnick Cree LEDs have a gold wire bypass in them. So if the led isn't absolutely mullered the current goes via that. You've got it in one on the bypass circuit 🔥🔥
H05 and H07 are the cables that are always being chewed by foxes etc. We stopped putting them on our lights and found a UV rated outdoor suitable PVC for the lights. That was 3 years ago and we havent had a single report of animal damage since
@@yrification armoured and NY have a UV stable PVC jacket for reference. There's plenty available 👍 We use automarine and the temperature range is amazing, here's the blurb from their site: Single core suitable for use at temperatures from -40ºC to 105ºC with excursions up to 120ºC
2700k. Designer specified and I always would too. Outdoor lighting isn't great for wildlife, but 2700k is way less disruptive than 5000k. Plus 5000k is cold and uninviting
If you break the connection then no, because there is no return path. If you were to connect them back again love then yes, but unlikely all. Probably just one or two
@@sdgelectronics all of them do it. Weve developed an anti hot swap device but not patented it yet. Most drivers you see exist in several brands. The Saxby one is re packaged for Orlight, Aurora and others. We sell allot of Meanwell and they do it too
@@HudsonLighting not all. It's because they added output capacitance to reduce the ripple current. The drivers that run at a higher flyback frequency and are better quality don't do it, like some of the XP Power modules. There are some Meanwell ones too. It's basically because they are made cheaply and the capacitance is a quick fix!
What should Jordan's forfeit be? The most liked comment wins...
A winter dunk in the pond.
A course on how to pull rope through duct 👀
To drive the electric van to fully charged and back
Hot 🌶
Nick bundy’s labourer for the day
Ok.... that rope.... keep it in the packet and you pull from the centre! that way it comes out nice and you dont have to walk out 200m to untangle it!
Like I hope they do with Cat5,6 or 7 cable
Came here to say that. Rookie error
@@MarkUKInsectselectricians shouldn’t be going near this cable in my opinion, but at least these cable come in boxes and set up to unravel like this
Very educational, exactly what these channels should be about. Refreshing to watch, think we are all getting a bit fed up with criticising someone else’s work and pushing vans up hills.
Chris gave a good presentation, providing valuable information on the benefits of ELV lighting supported by diagrams.
Been good to have seen the testing regime that was adopted and how that is applied between the different voltages and mitigation required not to damage electronic components through IR testing at any voltage level.
Tip with the rope is use the end from the center of the bale and if you lay the bale on the floor make sure the outside tail is pointing anti-clockwise looking the the letter "e" on the floor and when you pull the rope from the center it will spool out easy and not knotting up or tangling
Thank you! Will try that ‘e’.
Chris was excellent went through everything thoroughly
Thank you ☺️
Love that the lighting guy went thru the difference of ELV & LV, serial & parallel wiring. Really beautiful setup with the zoning & wiring. From the US & always enjoy how you wire lighting etc. there. I can see why Artisan Electronics is chosen to do the “High End” jobs.
Thanks Dan 🙂
@@HudsonLighting Hudson available in the US with our wiring standards? Thanks
@@dankelley9361 we've certainly sent lights to the US a few times. 350mA drivers are both available out there and we can send them with 110v inputs. 15V lights are just more popular where you are 😅
Fantastic video guys!!! Chris was great, love the fact you can replace the LED on those lights too!
Thanks Rupert ☺️
Very nice and refreshing! At the risk of sounding pretentious, I live in (West) Hollywood, California and see a lot of expensive -- generally (far) over the top -- garden lighting. This here was, for me, refreshing and a reminder of what garden lighting should be: functional, thoughtful, and (by US-of-A standards) understated. The icing on the cake is that quality, home grown products are used without any sacrifices! Indeed, and perhaps more importantly, products engineered with an eye towards maintainability & repairability. Kudos to Hudson Lighting! (BTW, I grew up near the Vans hq in Costa Mesa, CA. I keep on thinking I should get some swag for Lee.)
Really enjoyed this video! As a recently qualified electrician, this was great advice and will definitely be using extra low voltage for garden lighting in the future. Thanks guys 👌
Absolutely love everything that Hudson Lighting stand for. Well made, quality products that work well and are easily repairable. And they've not outsourced production abroad - fantastic stuff!
Thanks Oliver ☺️
I missed a disadvantage to constant current. If the cable is damaged or a light is entirely faulty it will bring out the whole loop. Parallel it would normally work up to the break point.
Lights that have a minor failure tend to bring just the one light out on some brands. Ours have a gold wire bypass which works 90% of the time. Currently working on a bypass in the protection circuit to work 99.999% of the time although can't deal with the cable damage bit
It's a major disadvantage, if you installed the cabling system poorly, didn't document the cable runs, or had poor-quality fittings. It's a bit of a pain if you did a good job though. A bit of intelligence in the circuit could handle the circuit going open - and the resulting damage.
Great job co-hosting this video. Just checked out your website - class👌
One of the best videos I have seen from you guys in months and months.
I've even given it a like. I rarely like.
Great information from Chris, never knew a about a lot of the things he covered. Will definitely be looking into ELV garden lighting from now on.
Absolutely love everything that Hudson Lighting stand for. Well made, quality products that work well and are easily repairable. And they've not outsourced production abroad - fantastic stuff!. you have won a new viewer . wel done guys
the production quality is amazing, those that contribute to the quality need a raise!!
Indeed, fantastic video!
Fabulous work guys absolutely love this one, has given me a few ideas
Beautiful work
A M A Z I N G ! Great to see a well thought-out British product in use too.
Wow! Looks amazing! ❤
nice insight into hudsons work and always learning new things from your channel , this time , series wiring which ive not had a lot of experience with
Brilliant video guys! The quality is 2nd to none! Great explanation from Chris also! Very informative.
I feel embarrassed that we’ve been fitting 230V garden lighting now. That ends today! 😅
Unbelievable fantastic work carried out by your team workmanship is outstanding and a good result will no doubt bring in more work for you 😊
Great job, I think I would have staggered those spike lights on the path and driveway though.
Luke is either very patient or slightly annoyed at 15:23 when waiting for him to stop talking
Very good with the reverse polarity protection. You would have thought a programmable driver would sort the hot swap issue.
How many electricians does it dake to unravel a rope
I think a roll of nylon rope is less than 3 sparks hours.
Did a great job explaining the dc theory, very important for electricians to be learning this
Love this video so far but for some reason in this video i keep hearing ducks instead of ducts so i keep gettin confused for a second every now and again til my brain realise oh its ducts
I'm not a electrician but your videos are brilliant and very clever
Absolutely brilliant video, love this content. Keep up the good work 😁👍
With blue rope coils, tape up the outside thoroughly and pull the rope from the centre to avoid the roll just collapsing and becoming a tangled mess.
Wow. CNC machined and painted in UK. Nice.
Wow! Luke was actually working and not on the phone 😂
Great video and class install guys, looks really good 👍. Really informative on the extra low voltage lighting as well.
ELV all the way for exterior lighting 👍
The bloke who owns the house must be a retired sparky LOL
I think the conductor is 1.5mm2 in circle area, 1.5mm could be misleading, because it may be thought as a diameter. Cheers!
Three phase boards are great for any house.loads of space
Do you know I never thought of series lighting as having any use besides Christmas tree lights.
Fascinating how it works.
Also I love the subtle elegance of that lighting.
Not garish over the top stuff.
Subtle and refined.
Well said regards extra low voltage lighting. I was wondering initially if it was going to be series wiring. The 4-20mA instrumentation wiring is a good example regarding looooong cable runs. Davo Savo did a cracking video on the really sad death of the kid at the pub.
4:43 Eddy currents from seperate tails entries are not an issue at domestic power levels - I think John Ward did a vid debunking this a while ago
Nice thanks for sharing
I smiled when that comment was made. As an industrial electrician we have come across this on large supplies but from memory it refers to single core armoured. The armouring can only be earthed at one end and into an insulated land plate at the other. The Eddie currents would flow round the armouring as you would have made a big transformer if both ends were shorted out. You are talking 3/400a supplies though. It’s common on transformer tales I think
Beautiful apart from dat nasty jb, I'll stick to my spur armoured jb and GU10 in hosepipe
Up the Hudson's 🙌😄
😂❤
15:29 keep on SCREWING, Luke! 😂
Oh man we put the tall plastic lamp post in our driveway and they really stick out. I wish I had seen there short poll lights on the driveway I would have got these. Great job and amazing property. Very kept property but still looks natural.
Single pole isolation at that property and you didn't mention it ?
13:10 why not using rcd in order to secure 230v circuits here in germany you have to use them for some years now it is not allowed without one and it is defacto standard like 1985 at least at my parents house that was build that year and they had one installed from the beginning.
and it works really simple power flowing through it into the circuit and returns over the neutral, if it senses that it is not flowing back for example you touching a wire and the current flows through your body to the ground/earth it sees current running in to the circuit but not returning over the neutral ad klick it is out and it is enough if there is just 30mA then it trips, you can even get ones with 10mA.
I am always amazed to see these are not mandatory worldwide today at it is an really easy way to have a save installation.
you can use lower voltage but then the rest of the installation still has this flaw.
23:50 you don´t have to use ferrules with this kind of wagos.
Amazing video very useful tips, thanks for sharing👍🏾👍🏾
Never mind the main supply coming through different holes, why wasn't the correct main switch used on a TNCS supply. Garden looks amazing and nice to see ELV used, it's hard to get customers to see the benefits until they've had a fault or shock from mains powered but ELV is the way to go and the only thing worth installing.
If the driver maintains 350ma throughly the string, the longer that string is, and/or the more LEDs in series, surely the voltage has to rise in response to that?
Is distance an issue for constant current or constant voltage.? Planning on 50m run on 2.5mm2 with 4 Hudson LEDS?
Liking the explanation of low voltage and extra low voltage by the Hudson guy..even though Jordan got it wrong himself, calling the extra low voltage lighting 'low voltage' yup, he should pay a forfeit for that alone 😉 Ah, the Artisan standard 😁
😂😂
Chris from hudson knows his stuff
Quality gear
Thanks Keith ❤
👊😎 loved the video
Thx for gr8 content like always 😊
Quality job guys , well done 👍
great video!!!
loved the info shared
Just been looking at Eddy current effects by the amazing John ward, it seems like its such a minimal impact of any thermal issues ! Makes me think that some regs are there for ... just being regs !! Ive never put tails through seperate 20mm knockouts but even in J.W's test with a 100amp load it crept up by 2 degrees !! I think on a hot sunny day the csu would get warmer than that , especially if situated in a closed cupboard or a garage.
No.
What JW measured was a 2 degree C increase. The magnitude of that increase doesn't change with ambient temperature.
So if the ambient temperature is 20°C then the final temperature is 20 + 2 = 22°C
If the ambient air temperature is 34°C , as could be in a hot summer, then the final temperature is 34 + 2 = 36°C.
That delta of 2 degrees is not a function of temperature.
Outstanding work guys 😎👏🇮🇪
How about EMI (ElectroMagneticInterference) with series lights? I really hate SMPS LED drivers because most of them use what is called spread spectrum switched mode power supply and basically smear the switching over a wide range of frequencies causing all kinds of EMI problems. In some of my ELV (Extra Low Voltage) projects I had to reside to expensive military grade of laboratory grade power supplies or even batteries to get rid of the EMI. Is there some standard that tells you how much EMI those ELV LED drivers emit? And are there lineair ELV LED drivers for low EMI purposes? I mean I know they comply with national standards but in my experience those national standards are usually not good enough.
26:52 Really great to see that the LED is user-replaceable. Having to replace an entire fixture when the bulb dies is extremely wasteful.
Something else worth mentioning is that with series lighting, if one of the LEDs does die, then all of the lights on the chain will go out. And finding the dead one will be not so straightforward. That’s a much bigger downside than the lack of hot-swappability IMO.
Another great informative video 👍
have to say I skim watched this whilst having my tea, so you may have covered it, but if not - with series constant current installations what happens when a lamp (or node) fails? I have years of experience with airport runway and taxiway lighting where we use constant current to ensure all lamps illuminate equally, but each node has a transformer to allow the system to continue with a lamp failure. That necessitates the system to be AC driven obviously but the principal is the same.
Some lights pull the whole system out. Some have a bypass. We have a good wire bypass which works 90% of the time. Working on a new protection circuit to work 99.999% of the time
What make of bird proofing do you use
What Kelvin level did you use for all these lights?
🤣20:17 your MEAT & VEG ! lovely ❤🤣
Helping to save the planet 🤪
🎉🎉🎉
It’s funny how”instagram”boy acts like he knows his shit when the camera is on him, then proceeds to unwind 200’ of cable from the outside of the roll lol!
Can you put a link in for the connetic?? lighting controls that you’re using?
Great video really informative 💯
The price for some outside lighting is absurd , had a quote back from a brand a couple of lights in the steps , one light to go in the drive couplr for planter 14,500 quid and they called back to change it as they forgot to add the 75 pound delivery charge 👍
Blue rope you take it and pull rope from the middle of the coil of rope?
When those blue ropes does not have a drum and is wrapped in plastic. Do not remove the plastic whatever you do. make a hole in either side and pull the rope from the inside. They are not designed to be rolled out but pulled from the inside. Unfortunatley that willalso twist the rope when you take it out though you can mitigate that by untwisting it when you pull it out.
15:21 😂😂😂😂
I hope the boys learned with blue rope, take from the middle, the coil can sit in container, so no tangles.
Leaving a job site by declaring your going for a massage - quality Jordanism ,next week Lee is going for a pedicure 👍
😂😂😂
Great video guys and excellent result! I agree with Chris on using ELV for outside lighting, it's a no-brainer! Your products look and sound great and being in Epsom myself, you're fairly local! (Done a fair bit of work Coulsdon way, one of my ex's is from there and I explored round the big derelict Cane Hill asylum years ago!)
Will definitely be checking your lighting range out next garden lighting project I get! 🙂
Feel free to drop in to see the manufacturing
Do you know if Dan at DSS is ok? I miss his content.
Yes! Spoke with him last week, he's all good just wanted to step away from RUclips so the channel is 'hidden'
What cable did you use mate 👍🏼
The explanation on parallel vs series circuit arrangements for lighting LEDs was slightly correct but more so incorrect. A series arrangement would in-fact make LEDs in the circuit dimmer. When applying KCL to a series circuit, it can be observed that each node only possesses two connections. The current into each node must be equal to the current exiting, thus current is constant through each LED in a series circuit. In series, resistance sums proportionally to the resistance of each component. When applying KVL in a series circuit, the equivalent voltage of the source must be dropped across the entire chain, inferring that if the source voltage is not great enough to meet the circuit demands, LEDs in the circuit will be less bright due to the increasing resistance which reduces the amount of current flowing. In comparison, parallel circuits provide a constant voltage drop across all components but current divides through each branch depending on its resistance. Resistance in parallel is the inverse of the sum of the inverse of each components resistance. Assuming that each branch contains an equal resistance (all LEDs are the same), all LEDs in the circuit will glow at the same brightness regardless of how many branches the circuit contains due to the decreasing resistance which permits a greater current to flow.
You've missed some fairly important aspects about the design with your Kirchhoff analysis, especially the type of power supply used and the resistance of the cables to each LED.
Take the cord from the centre of the reel lads
if one light in the loop goes bad all the other will go out?
What type of work pants are they using
Bläklader
Presumably as you add more lights in series, the constant current driver must increase its output voltage to maintain the same current in the circuit - how high does that go, is it (open circuit) still less than 50V DC? (and therefore how many lights can you put in series?)
120v DC is the max for ELV which is 42W at 350mA. So the max is 42W that you could have on a circuit. I'd recommend sizing circuits to 35W as drivers are easily available. The majority of these lights were 3W. Along the path was 4 lights so just 12W of load. Plenty of capacity to add more down the line. Plus artisan wired 4 core leaving two cores spare for future
@@HudsonLighting That is excellent, thank you - ah yes I forgot 120V DC is still ELV (whereas 50V is for AC). Must admit I'd still not want to get across 120V DC; where I work we used to have a 50V DC battery backup supply for critical kit, all distributed with open-frame fuse panels. I came in contact with it many times and it gives quite an unpleasant nip, so I don't like to think what 120V DC would feel like. Perhaps there is less risk of fibrillation, hence the higher voltage permitted for DC ELV? Lovely lights by the way - extremely stylish and I sincerely appreciate that you have designed them to have replaceable LEDs, I think it is ridiculous that we throw away whole fittings because the LEDs or built-in drivers are not repairable.
@@HudsonLighting if I’m not mistaken the gent is incorrect, these are not wired in series they’re wired in parallel? Same as downlights for example
Just the wattage of the driver that is limiting you though is that right?
@@rossthompson1635 I do tend to agree with you. I had a customer once put our lights on a 100W driver. If the driver was at full load the circuit would be sitting at 285V DC. If you design with smaller drivers then the max output voltage is less. It will only ever be at the max if it's under full load too. We most commonly sell 20W drivers and those will sit at 57V if they have 20W of lights on them
@@ja_adam_ downlightd etc or conventional connections like sockets are all parallel. Constant current lights are always series wired (black feeding the next red etc,). I think that's what you mean unless you were referring to something else @ja?
Great video , why 4 core out to lights? Thanks
Two core spare or for another circuit - 2 circuits out of one cable basically
In commercial industrial properties it's because they are often emergency
@@cocoino2307 you think these garden lights are emergency’s?
@@ja_adam_ no i doubt it, I actually don't know If you can get low voltage emergency lights, it would have been a good idea if the customer willing to pay
Harvey Tyrrell.....the name you're looking for is Harvey Tyrrell.
I think I'd stick with parallel lighting where possible, do the series lights bypass themselves if they are blown, so you can keep the others on or is it like an old set of fairy lights, where one goes out and the lot go off? :)
Many have a internal bypass unless they have a catastrophic failure. Ours have a gold wire bypass. We are working on a full bypass currently
@@HudsonLightinghat's really good because this issue is pretty much only one I have against series wiring.
Can you explain how gold wire bypass works?
And permanent bypass - not much into electronics, but judging by the way of how CC driver works, is that a Schottky diode in parallel with LED and threshold just a hair over it?
@@Kinnikinnick Cree LEDs have a gold wire bypass in them. So if the led isn't absolutely mullered the current goes via that. You've got it in one on the bypass circuit 🔥🔥
Early birdy,what are the best snips to buy as an apprentice currently have ck don’t really like them
CK do some great tools. But for pliers, cutters etc there is only Knipex
Depends on what you want to pay, personally I love NWS cutters. For cable shears you can't beat Boddingtons or Knipex.
A house like that, and they have a £250 inflatable hot tub... Nice!
❤❤❤
he has to go bungee jumping
That's nothing guys, I just fitted a solar LED external light with battery backup - beat that!!!
the lighting guy is a beast!
Thanks 😊
Why use PVC flex and not H05 of H07?. I only use that externally now for lighting. I know its in a duct but I would still use rubberised flex instead.
H05 and H07 are the cables that are always being chewed by foxes etc. We stopped putting them on our lights and found a UV rated outdoor suitable PVC for the lights. That was 3 years ago and we havent had a single report of animal damage since
@@HudsonLighting didn’t even know they did a uv stable pvc flex. You learn something new everyday 👍 thanks for the reply.
@@yrification armoured and NY have a UV stable PVC jacket for reference. There's plenty available 👍
We use automarine and the temperature range is amazing, here's the blurb from their site:
Single core suitable for use at temperatures from -40ºC to 105ºC with excursions up to 120ºC
@@HudsonLighting that’s almost like a tri-rated cable then. That’s good stuff.
“Fings” - lee
so basically half of the video is a sales pitch from Hudson lighting..
All that money on a house and the neighbours are all looking straight into you back yard 🤦🏻♂️
Did you specify warm white or was it the customer?
I always use 5k for outdoor lighting.
2700k. Designer specified and I always would too. Outdoor lighting isn't great for wildlife, but 2700k is way less disruptive than 5000k. Plus 5000k is cold and uninviting
@@HudsonLightingTotally agree. I always find around 3000 Kelvin is a great colour to use.
Should have put the string in a broom handle
So, if you break a wire (same as hot swapping) you are saying that it will cause a split second 2amp peek and blow all of them?
If you break the connection then no, because there is no return path. If you were to connect them back again love then yes, but unlikely all. Probably just one or two
@@HudsonLighting That's just down to poor quality drivers. Don't use Saxby!
@@sdgelectronics all of them do it. Weve developed an anti hot swap device but not patented it yet. Most drivers you see exist in several brands. The Saxby one is re packaged for Orlight, Aurora and others. We sell allot of Meanwell and they do it too
@@HudsonLighting not all. It's because they added output capacitance to reduce the ripple current. The drivers that run at a higher flyback frequency and are better quality don't do it, like some of the XP Power modules. There are some Meanwell ones too. It's basically because they are made cheaply and the capacitance is a quick fix!
@@sdgelectronics we supply the Meanwell LCM and AP range and they all have this issue. Do you know which Meanwell don't? I take a look at XP, thanks