Very educational, exactly what these channels should be about. Refreshing to watch, think we are all getting a bit fed up with criticising someone else’s work and pushing vans up hills. Chris gave a good presentation, providing valuable information on the benefits of ELV lighting supported by diagrams. Been good to have seen the testing regime that was adopted and how that is applied between the different voltages and mitigation required not to damage electronic components through IR testing at any voltage level.
Absolutely love everything that Hudson Lighting stand for. Well made, quality products that work well and are easily repairable. And they've not outsourced production abroad - fantastic stuff!
Absolutely love everything that Hudson Lighting stand for. Well made, quality products that work well and are easily repairable. And they've not outsourced production abroad - fantastic stuff!. you have won a new viewer . wel done guys
Love that the lighting guy went thru the difference of ELV & LV, serial & parallel wiring. Really beautiful setup with the zoning & wiring. From the US & always enjoy how you wire lighting etc. there. I can see why Artisan Electronics is chosen to do the “High End” jobs.
@@dankelley9361 we've certainly sent lights to the US a few times. 350mA drivers are both available out there and we can send them with 110v inputs. 15V lights are just more popular where you are 😅
Tip with the rope is use the end from the center of the bale and if you lay the bale on the floor make sure the outside tail is pointing anti-clockwise looking the the letter "e" on the floor and when you pull the rope from the center it will spool out easy and not knotting up or tangling
Really enjoyed this video! As a recently qualified electrician, this was great advice and will definitely be using extra low voltage for garden lighting in the future. Thanks guys 👌
Very nice and refreshing! At the risk of sounding pretentious, I live in (West) Hollywood, California and see a lot of expensive -- generally (far) over the top -- garden lighting. This here was, for me, refreshing and a reminder of what garden lighting should be: functional, thoughtful, and (by US-of-A standards) understated. The icing on the cake is that quality, home grown products are used without any sacrifices! Indeed, and perhaps more importantly, products engineered with an eye towards maintainability & repairability. Kudos to Hudson Lighting! (BTW, I grew up near the Vans hq in Costa Mesa, CA. I keep on thinking I should get some swag for Lee.)
I missed a disadvantage to constant current. If the cable is damaged or a light is entirely faulty it will bring out the whole loop. Parallel it would normally work up to the break point. Lights that have a minor failure tend to bring just the one light out on some brands. Ours have a gold wire bypass which works 90% of the time. Currently working on a bypass in the protection circuit to work 99.999% of the time although can't deal with the cable damage bit
It's a major disadvantage, if you installed the cabling system poorly, didn't document the cable runs, or had poor-quality fittings. It's a bit of a pain if you did a good job though. A bit of intelligence in the circuit could handle the circuit going open - and the resulting damage.
I smiled when that comment was made. As an industrial electrician we have come across this on large supplies but from memory it refers to single core armoured. The armouring can only be earthed at one end and into an insulated land plate at the other. The Eddie currents would flow round the armouring as you would have made a big transformer if both ends were shorted out. You are talking 3/400a supplies though. It’s common on transformer tales I think
Brilliant video guys! The quality is 2nd to none! Great explanation from Chris also! Very informative. I feel embarrassed that we’ve been fitting 230V garden lighting now. That ends today! 😅
Do you know I never thought of series lighting as having any use besides Christmas tree lights. Fascinating how it works. Also I love the subtle elegance of that lighting. Not garish over the top stuff. Subtle and refined.
If the driver maintains 350ma throughly the string, the longer that string is, and/or the more LEDs in series, surely the voltage has to rise in response to that?
Well said regards extra low voltage lighting. I was wondering initially if it was going to be series wiring. The 4-20mA instrumentation wiring is a good example regarding looooong cable runs. Davo Savo did a cracking video on the really sad death of the kid at the pub.
Oh man we put the tall plastic lamp post in our driveway and they really stick out. I wish I had seen there short poll lights on the driveway I would have got these. Great job and amazing property. Very kept property but still looks natural.
Just been looking at Eddy current effects by the amazing John ward, it seems like its such a minimal impact of any thermal issues ! Makes me think that some regs are there for ... just being regs !! Ive never put tails through seperate 20mm knockouts but even in J.W's test with a 100amp load it crept up by 2 degrees !! I think on a hot sunny day the csu would get warmer than that , especially if situated in a closed cupboard or a garage.
No. What JW measured was a 2 degree C increase. The magnitude of that increase doesn't change with ambient temperature. So if the ambient temperature is 20°C then the final temperature is 20 + 2 = 22°C If the ambient air temperature is 34°C , as could be in a hot summer, then the final temperature is 34 + 2 = 36°C. That delta of 2 degrees is not a function of temperature.
Never mind the main supply coming through different holes, why wasn't the correct main switch used on a TNCS supply. Garden looks amazing and nice to see ELV used, it's hard to get customers to see the benefits until they've had a fault or shock from mains powered but ELV is the way to go and the only thing worth installing.
Liking the explanation of low voltage and extra low voltage by the Hudson guy..even though Jordan got it wrong himself, calling the extra low voltage lighting 'low voltage' yup, he should pay a forfeit for that alone 😉 Ah, the Artisan standard 😁
13:10 why not using rcd in order to secure 230v circuits here in germany you have to use them for some years now it is not allowed without one and it is defacto standard like 1985 at least at my parents house that was build that year and they had one installed from the beginning. and it works really simple power flowing through it into the circuit and returns over the neutral, if it senses that it is not flowing back for example you touching a wire and the current flows through your body to the ground/earth it sees current running in to the circuit but not returning over the neutral ad klick it is out and it is enough if there is just 30mA then it trips, you can even get ones with 10mA. I am always amazed to see these are not mandatory worldwide today at it is an really easy way to have a save installation. you can use lower voltage but then the rest of the installation still has this flaw. 23:50 you don´t have to use ferrules with this kind of wagos.
have to say I skim watched this whilst having my tea, so you may have covered it, but if not - with series constant current installations what happens when a lamp (or node) fails? I have years of experience with airport runway and taxiway lighting where we use constant current to ensure all lamps illuminate equally, but each node has a transformer to allow the system to continue with a lamp failure. That necessitates the system to be AC driven obviously but the principal is the same.
Some lights pull the whole system out. Some have a bypass. We have a good wire bypass which works 90% of the time. Working on a new protection circuit to work 99.999% of the time
How about EMI (ElectroMagneticInterference) with series lights? I really hate SMPS LED drivers because most of them use what is called spread spectrum switched mode power supply and basically smear the switching over a wide range of frequencies causing all kinds of EMI problems. In some of my ELV (Extra Low Voltage) projects I had to reside to expensive military grade of laboratory grade power supplies or even batteries to get rid of the EMI. Is there some standard that tells you how much EMI those ELV LED drivers emit? And are there lineair ELV LED drivers for low EMI purposes? I mean I know they comply with national standards but in my experience those national standards are usually not good enough.
@@ja_adam_ no i doubt it, I actually don't know If you can get low voltage emergency lights, it would have been a good idea if the customer willing to pay
H05 and H07 are the cables that are always being chewed by foxes etc. We stopped putting them on our lights and found a UV rated outdoor suitable PVC for the lights. That was 3 years ago and we havent had a single report of animal damage since
@@yrification armoured and NY have a UV stable PVC jacket for reference. There's plenty available 👍 We use automarine and the temperature range is amazing, here's the blurb from their site: Single core suitable for use at temperatures from -40ºC to 105ºC with excursions up to 120ºC
Great video guys and excellent result! I agree with Chris on using ELV for outside lighting, it's a no-brainer! Your products look and sound great and being in Epsom myself, you're fairly local! (Done a fair bit of work Coulsdon way, one of my ex's is from there and I explored round the big derelict Cane Hill asylum years ago!) Will definitely be checking your lighting range out next garden lighting project I get! 🙂
Presumably as you add more lights in series, the constant current driver must increase its output voltage to maintain the same current in the circuit - how high does that go, is it (open circuit) still less than 50V DC? (and therefore how many lights can you put in series?)
120v DC is the max for ELV which is 42W at 350mA. So the max is 42W that you could have on a circuit. I'd recommend sizing circuits to 35W as drivers are easily available. The majority of these lights were 3W. Along the path was 4 lights so just 12W of load. Plenty of capacity to add more down the line. Plus artisan wired 4 core leaving two cores spare for future
@@HudsonLighting That is excellent, thank you - ah yes I forgot 120V DC is still ELV (whereas 50V is for AC). Must admit I'd still not want to get across 120V DC; where I work we used to have a 50V DC battery backup supply for critical kit, all distributed with open-frame fuse panels. I came in contact with it many times and it gives quite an unpleasant nip, so I don't like to think what 120V DC would feel like. Perhaps there is less risk of fibrillation, hence the higher voltage permitted for DC ELV? Lovely lights by the way - extremely stylish and I sincerely appreciate that you have designed them to have replaceable LEDs, I think it is ridiculous that we throw away whole fittings because the LEDs or built-in drivers are not repairable.
@@HudsonLighting if I’m not mistaken the gent is incorrect, these are not wired in series they’re wired in parallel? Same as downlights for example Just the wattage of the driver that is limiting you though is that right?
@@rossthompson1635 I do tend to agree with you. I had a customer once put our lights on a 100W driver. If the driver was at full load the circuit would be sitting at 285V DC. If you design with smaller drivers then the max output voltage is less. It will only ever be at the max if it's under full load too. We most commonly sell 20W drivers and those will sit at 57V if they have 20W of lights on them
@@ja_adam_ downlightd etc or conventional connections like sockets are all parallel. Constant current lights are always series wired (black feeding the next red etc,). I think that's what you mean unless you were referring to something else @ja?
I'm confused; lower current [pressure] (350mA) can 'push'' further (1-2km) compared to 1A 'pushing 300-400m?;How can lower pressure push harder/further?
Resistance is partly why. As the current goes up resistance increases. But also the driver deals with the volt drop. It raises the voltage to deal with the losses
@@HudsonLighting that kinda makes sense, ELV isn't something I have much knowledge about, I can definitely see the upsides to using ELV outside - I saw a video from David Savery, turning effectively LV fittings into ELV by throwing it on a driver and a E22 to MR16 presentation converter to take the different bulb and I saw sold 🤣
Current is not pressure. In electricity, in explaining things to non proficienct people it is common to use the water and plumbing analogy and in this analogy it is the voltage, not current which is the equivalent of pressure. It's a constant current source, which means that the current remains constant and it is the voltage that changes. So the more resistance you add to the output of that current source, the current remains constant and the voltage across the output will change.
Love this video so far but for some reason in this video i keep hearing ducks instead of ducts so i keep gettin confused for a second every now and again til my brain realise oh its ducts
They only want flow in one dirction. Reverse it and it blows. It varies between led manufacturers, some are more sensitive to reverse current. We put two diodes on our protection circuit in front of the white and red led to stop that issue
If you have an LED rated for a forward voltage of 3.3V and a reverse voltage of 6V, then connecting it backwards won't do anything; negligible current (on the order of a couple of microamps) will flow because the applied voltage isn't high enough to cause the diode to break down. You can exploit this to put two LEDs in parallel, but wired in opposite directions. Apply voltage one way and one of the LEDs will light up; the other one won't conduct much of anything. Apply voltage the other way and the situation reverses. It's very common for a diode's reverse withstand rated voltage to be much higher than its forward voltage, permitting this situation to exist indefinitely.
@Aaron Jones the voltage the flows through the LED in series could be 120VDC or even more if you wasn't going for ELV. It's current that kills LEDs if you can't control the voltage necessary across each
@@HudsonLightingTechnically voltage doesn't flow through anything. It is current that flows, and voltage is always *across* two points. All diodes have a maximum reverse bias voltage which causes breakdown of the component. In reverse bias, the diode has a high resistance and the only current that flows is a miniscule reverse saturation current. When the diode unde reverse bias has a voltage across it greater than its maximum reverse voltage then the diode fails and a large current flows. For rectification diodes this maximum reverse voltage can be as high as 1000 volts, but for LEDs it is typically a lot lower, but from what I have seen, rarely quoted.
If you break the connection then no, because there is no return path. If you were to connect them back again love then yes, but unlikely all. Probably just one or two
@@sdgelectronics all of them do it. Weve developed an anti hot swap device but not patented it yet. Most drivers you see exist in several brands. The Saxby one is re packaged for Orlight, Aurora and others. We sell allot of Meanwell and they do it too
@@HudsonLighting not all. It's because they added output capacitance to reduce the ripple current. The drivers that run at a higher flyback frequency and are better quality don't do it, like some of the XP Power modules. There are some Meanwell ones too. It's basically because they are made cheaply and the capacitance is a quick fix!
2700k. Designer specified and I always would too. Outdoor lighting isn't great for wildlife, but 2700k is way less disruptive than 5000k. Plus 5000k is cold and uninviting
When those blue ropes does not have a drum and is wrapped in plastic. Do not remove the plastic whatever you do. make a hole in either side and pull the rope from the inside. They are not designed to be rolled out but pulled from the inside. Unfortunatley that willalso twist the rope when you take it out though you can mitigate that by untwisting it when you pull it out.
I think I'd stick with parallel lighting where possible, do the series lights bypass themselves if they are blown, so you can keep the others on or is it like an old set of fairy lights, where one goes out and the lot go off? :)
@@HudsonLightinghat's really good because this issue is pretty much only one I have against series wiring. Can you explain how gold wire bypass works? And permanent bypass - not much into electronics, but judging by the way of how CC driver works, is that a Schottky diode in parallel with LED and threshold just a hair over it?
@@Kinnikinnick Cree LEDs have a gold wire bypass in them. So if the led isn't absolutely mullered the current goes via that. You've got it in one on the bypass circuit 🔥🔥
The price for some outside lighting is absurd , had a quote back from a brand a couple of lights in the steps , one light to go in the drive couplr for planter 14,500 quid and they called back to change it as they forgot to add the 75 pound delivery charge 👍
Random but can you answer how shaver socket isolating transformer works. How do you not get a shock if touching live when stood on the ground making contact with earth, but you would still get a shock if this was a standard light switch for example with the earth removed? The earth is removed on the shaver socket right? I don’t get how you don’t get a shock can you help?
@@HudsonLighting I'm not sure if they're center tapped or not, but they're definitely isolated transformers, so floating and not referenced to earth. ie. you can only get a shock by touching both conductors at the same time. They're also limited to 20VA output which heavily limits the current to < 0.2A
@@HudsonLighting also, I'm a maintenance spark for an old stately home and I'm really interested in your lighting products - but I get errors when trying to add an account to see pricing, I'm not sure if it's broken for everyone or not. Thanks.
@@havoctrousers It's floating output, but you will usually get a small shock from contacting just one pole of the output. The transformers are low cost and compact so the inter-winding capacitance is quite high.
An isolating transformer has (the clue is in the name) isolated outputs. The line conductor is only normally dangerous to come into contact with because its nominal RMS potential with respect to neutral is 230V, *and the neutral conductor is earthed somewhere* (this is why it's called neutral; its potential with respect to the earth itself is supposed to be close to 0V). Therefore you can become a path for current to flow from line back to neutral, through your body and then the earth. The two outputs of an isolating transformer will also have a potential difference between them, but there's no other path for current to flow; you *have* to come into contact with *both* conductors, otherwise nothing happens. Therefore there is no "line" and "neutral" on the output of an isolating transformer, unless you earth one of them (making it the neutral conductor), but then that would defeat the point because you've provided a fault path (through earth) back to the transformer and you may as well not be using it.
They are on constant current driver's. A meanwell dimmable 0-10V one and a few Saxby (not for brand, just because the Chinese factory they come out of is repackaged for about 5 brands and it's actually decent)
The explanation on parallel vs series circuit arrangements for lighting LEDs was slightly correct but more so incorrect. A series arrangement would in-fact make LEDs in the circuit dimmer. When applying KCL to a series circuit, it can be observed that each node only possesses two connections. The current into each node must be equal to the current exiting, thus current is constant through each LED in a series circuit. In series, resistance sums proportionally to the resistance of each component. When applying KVL in a series circuit, the equivalent voltage of the source must be dropped across the entire chain, inferring that if the source voltage is not great enough to meet the circuit demands, LEDs in the circuit will be less bright due to the increasing resistance which reduces the amount of current flowing. In comparison, parallel circuits provide a constant voltage drop across all components but current divides through each branch depending on its resistance. Resistance in parallel is the inverse of the sum of the inverse of each components resistance. Assuming that each branch contains an equal resistance (all LEDs are the same), all LEDs in the circuit will glow at the same brightness regardless of how many branches the circuit contains due to the decreasing resistance which permits a greater current to flow.
You've missed some fairly important aspects about the design with your Kirchhoff analysis, especially the type of power supply used and the resistance of the cables to each LED.
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What should Jordan's forfeit be? The most liked comment wins...
A winter dunk in the pond.
A course on how to pull rope through duct 👀
To drive the electric van to fully charged and back
Hot 🌶
Nick bundy’s labourer for the day
Very educational, exactly what these channels should be about. Refreshing to watch, think we are all getting a bit fed up with criticising someone else’s work and pushing vans up hills.
Chris gave a good presentation, providing valuable information on the benefits of ELV lighting supported by diagrams.
Been good to have seen the testing regime that was adopted and how that is applied between the different voltages and mitigation required not to damage electronic components through IR testing at any voltage level.
Fantastic video guys!!! Chris was great, love the fact you can replace the LED on those lights too!
Thanks Rupert ☺️
Ok.... that rope.... keep it in the packet and you pull from the centre! that way it comes out nice and you dont have to walk out 200m to untangle it!
Like I hope they do with Cat5,6 or 7 cable
Came here to say that. Rookie error
@@MarkUKInsectselectricians shouldn’t be going near this cable in my opinion, but at least these cable come in boxes and set up to unravel like this
Chris was excellent went through everything thoroughly
Thank you ☺️
Absolutely love everything that Hudson Lighting stand for. Well made, quality products that work well and are easily repairable. And they've not outsourced production abroad - fantastic stuff!
Thanks Oliver ☺️
Absolutely love everything that Hudson Lighting stand for. Well made, quality products that work well and are easily repairable. And they've not outsourced production abroad - fantastic stuff!. you have won a new viewer . wel done guys
the production quality is amazing, those that contribute to the quality need a raise!!
Indeed, fantastic video!
Love that the lighting guy went thru the difference of ELV & LV, serial & parallel wiring. Really beautiful setup with the zoning & wiring. From the US & always enjoy how you wire lighting etc. there. I can see why Artisan Electronics is chosen to do the “High End” jobs.
Thanks Dan 🙂
@@HudsonLighting Hudson available in the US with our wiring standards? Thanks
@@dankelley9361 we've certainly sent lights to the US a few times. 350mA drivers are both available out there and we can send them with 110v inputs. 15V lights are just more popular where you are 😅
Tip with the rope is use the end from the center of the bale and if you lay the bale on the floor make sure the outside tail is pointing anti-clockwise looking the the letter "e" on the floor and when you pull the rope from the center it will spool out easy and not knotting up or tangling
Thank you! Will try that ‘e’.
A M A Z I N G ! Great to see a well thought-out British product in use too.
Really enjoyed this video! As a recently qualified electrician, this was great advice and will definitely be using extra low voltage for garden lighting in the future. Thanks guys 👌
One of the best videos I have seen from you guys in months and months.
I've even given it a like. I rarely like.
Very nice and refreshing! At the risk of sounding pretentious, I live in (West) Hollywood, California and see a lot of expensive -- generally (far) over the top -- garden lighting. This here was, for me, refreshing and a reminder of what garden lighting should be: functional, thoughtful, and (by US-of-A standards) understated. The icing on the cake is that quality, home grown products are used without any sacrifices! Indeed, and perhaps more importantly, products engineered with an eye towards maintainability & repairability. Kudos to Hudson Lighting! (BTW, I grew up near the Vans hq in Costa Mesa, CA. I keep on thinking I should get some swag for Lee.)
I missed a disadvantage to constant current. If the cable is damaged or a light is entirely faulty it will bring out the whole loop. Parallel it would normally work up to the break point.
Lights that have a minor failure tend to bring just the one light out on some brands. Ours have a gold wire bypass which works 90% of the time. Currently working on a bypass in the protection circuit to work 99.999% of the time although can't deal with the cable damage bit
It's a major disadvantage, if you installed the cabling system poorly, didn't document the cable runs, or had poor-quality fittings. It's a bit of a pain if you did a good job though. A bit of intelligence in the circuit could handle the circuit going open - and the resulting damage.
Great job co-hosting this video. Just checked out your website - class👌
Great information from Chris, never knew a about a lot of the things he covered. Will definitely be looking into ELV garden lighting from now on.
Unbelievable fantastic work carried out by your team workmanship is outstanding and a good result will no doubt bring in more work for you 😊
Wow! Looks amazing! ❤
Fabulous work guys absolutely love this one, has given me a few ideas
nice insight into hudsons work and always learning new things from your channel , this time , series wiring which ive not had a lot of experience with
4:43 Eddy currents from seperate tails entries are not an issue at domestic power levels - I think John Ward did a vid debunking this a while ago
Nice thanks for sharing
I smiled when that comment was made. As an industrial electrician we have come across this on large supplies but from memory it refers to single core armoured. The armouring can only be earthed at one end and into an insulated land plate at the other. The Eddie currents would flow round the armouring as you would have made a big transformer if both ends were shorted out. You are talking 3/400a supplies though. It’s common on transformer tales I think
Brilliant video guys! The quality is 2nd to none! Great explanation from Chris also! Very informative.
I feel embarrassed that we’ve been fitting 230V garden lighting now. That ends today! 😅
Did a great job explaining the dc theory, very important for electricians to be learning this
Beautiful work
Absolutely brilliant video, love this content. Keep up the good work 😁👍
Great video and class install guys, looks really good 👍. Really informative on the extra low voltage lighting as well.
I'm not a electrician but your videos are brilliant and very clever
15:29 keep on SCREWING, Luke! 😂
Great job, I think I would have staggered those spike lights on the path and driveway though.
👊😎 loved the video
Thx for gr8 content like always 😊
Very good with the reverse polarity protection. You would have thought a programmable driver would sort the hot swap issue.
Amazing video very useful tips, thanks for sharing👍🏾👍🏾
Is distance an issue for constant current or constant voltage.? Planning on 50m run on 2.5mm2 with 4 Hudson LEDS?
Wow. CNC machined and painted in UK. Nice.
Do you know I never thought of series lighting as having any use besides Christmas tree lights.
Fascinating how it works.
Also I love the subtle elegance of that lighting.
Not garish over the top stuff.
Subtle and refined.
Single pole isolation at that property and you didn't mention it ?
With blue rope coils, tape up the outside thoroughly and pull the rope from the centre to avoid the roll just collapsing and becoming a tangled mess.
Can you put a link in for the connetic?? lighting controls that you’re using?
great video!!!
loved the info shared
What make of bird proofing do you use
ELV all the way for exterior lighting 👍
If the driver maintains 350ma throughly the string, the longer that string is, and/or the more LEDs in series, surely the voltage has to rise in response to that?
Well said regards extra low voltage lighting. I was wondering initially if it was going to be series wiring. The 4-20mA instrumentation wiring is a good example regarding looooong cable runs. Davo Savo did a cracking video on the really sad death of the kid at the pub.
Oh man we put the tall plastic lamp post in our driveway and they really stick out. I wish I had seen there short poll lights on the driveway I would have got these. Great job and amazing property. Very kept property but still looks natural.
Just been looking at Eddy current effects by the amazing John ward, it seems like its such a minimal impact of any thermal issues ! Makes me think that some regs are there for ... just being regs !! Ive never put tails through seperate 20mm knockouts but even in J.W's test with a 100amp load it crept up by 2 degrees !! I think on a hot sunny day the csu would get warmer than that , especially if situated in a closed cupboard or a garage.
No.
What JW measured was a 2 degree C increase. The magnitude of that increase doesn't change with ambient temperature.
So if the ambient temperature is 20°C then the final temperature is 20 + 2 = 22°C
If the ambient air temperature is 34°C , as could be in a hot summer, then the final temperature is 34 + 2 = 36°C.
That delta of 2 degrees is not a function of temperature.
Another great informative video 👍
What Kelvin level did you use for all these lights?
Up the Hudson's 🙌😄
😂❤
Three phase boards are great for any house.loads of space
Quality job guys , well done 👍
Never mind the main supply coming through different holes, why wasn't the correct main switch used on a TNCS supply. Garden looks amazing and nice to see ELV used, it's hard to get customers to see the benefits until they've had a fault or shock from mains powered but ELV is the way to go and the only thing worth installing.
How many electricians does it dake to unravel a rope
I think a roll of nylon rope is less than 3 sparks hours.
Liking the explanation of low voltage and extra low voltage by the Hudson guy..even though Jordan got it wrong himself, calling the extra low voltage lighting 'low voltage' yup, he should pay a forfeit for that alone 😉 Ah, the Artisan standard 😁
😂😂
13:10 why not using rcd in order to secure 230v circuits here in germany you have to use them for some years now it is not allowed without one and it is defacto standard like 1985 at least at my parents house that was build that year and they had one installed from the beginning.
and it works really simple power flowing through it into the circuit and returns over the neutral, if it senses that it is not flowing back for example you touching a wire and the current flows through your body to the ground/earth it sees current running in to the circuit but not returning over the neutral ad klick it is out and it is enough if there is just 30mA then it trips, you can even get ones with 10mA.
I am always amazed to see these are not mandatory worldwide today at it is an really easy way to have a save installation.
you can use lower voltage but then the rest of the installation still has this flaw.
23:50 you don´t have to use ferrules with this kind of wagos.
🤣20:17 your MEAT & VEG ! lovely ❤🤣
Outstanding work guys 😎👏🇮🇪
Chris from hudson knows his stuff
Quality gear
Thanks Keith ❤
I think the conductor is 1.5mm2 in circle area, 1.5mm could be misleading, because it may be thought as a diameter. Cheers!
Blue rope you take it and pull rope from the middle of the coil of rope?
Great video really informative 💯
have to say I skim watched this whilst having my tea, so you may have covered it, but if not - with series constant current installations what happens when a lamp (or node) fails? I have years of experience with airport runway and taxiway lighting where we use constant current to ensure all lamps illuminate equally, but each node has a transformer to allow the system to continue with a lamp failure. That necessitates the system to be AC driven obviously but the principal is the same.
Some lights pull the whole system out. Some have a bypass. We have a good wire bypass which works 90% of the time. Working on a new protection circuit to work 99.999% of the time
How about EMI (ElectroMagneticInterference) with series lights? I really hate SMPS LED drivers because most of them use what is called spread spectrum switched mode power supply and basically smear the switching over a wide range of frequencies causing all kinds of EMI problems. In some of my ELV (Extra Low Voltage) projects I had to reside to expensive military grade of laboratory grade power supplies or even batteries to get rid of the EMI. Is there some standard that tells you how much EMI those ELV LED drivers emit? And are there lineair ELV LED drivers for low EMI purposes? I mean I know they comply with national standards but in my experience those national standards are usually not good enough.
What cable did you use mate 👍🏼
Helping to save the planet 🤪
Great video , why 4 core out to lights? Thanks
Two core spare or for another circuit - 2 circuits out of one cable basically
In commercial industrial properties it's because they are often emergency
@@cocoino2307 you think these garden lights are emergency’s?
@@ja_adam_ no i doubt it, I actually don't know If you can get low voltage emergency lights, it would have been a good idea if the customer willing to pay
Why use PVC flex and not H05 of H07?. I only use that externally now for lighting. I know its in a duct but I would still use rubberised flex instead.
H05 and H07 are the cables that are always being chewed by foxes etc. We stopped putting them on our lights and found a UV rated outdoor suitable PVC for the lights. That was 3 years ago and we havent had a single report of animal damage since
@@HudsonLighting didn’t even know they did a uv stable pvc flex. You learn something new everyday 👍 thanks for the reply.
@@yrification armoured and NY have a UV stable PVC jacket for reference. There's plenty available 👍
We use automarine and the temperature range is amazing, here's the blurb from their site:
Single core suitable for use at temperatures from -40ºC to 105ºC with excursions up to 120ºC
@@HudsonLighting that’s almost like a tri-rated cable then. That’s good stuff.
Great video guys and excellent result! I agree with Chris on using ELV for outside lighting, it's a no-brainer! Your products look and sound great and being in Epsom myself, you're fairly local! (Done a fair bit of work Coulsdon way, one of my ex's is from there and I explored round the big derelict Cane Hill asylum years ago!)
Will definitely be checking your lighting range out next garden lighting project I get! 🙂
Feel free to drop in to see the manufacturing
Presumably as you add more lights in series, the constant current driver must increase its output voltage to maintain the same current in the circuit - how high does that go, is it (open circuit) still less than 50V DC? (and therefore how many lights can you put in series?)
120v DC is the max for ELV which is 42W at 350mA. So the max is 42W that you could have on a circuit. I'd recommend sizing circuits to 35W as drivers are easily available. The majority of these lights were 3W. Along the path was 4 lights so just 12W of load. Plenty of capacity to add more down the line. Plus artisan wired 4 core leaving two cores spare for future
@@HudsonLighting That is excellent, thank you - ah yes I forgot 120V DC is still ELV (whereas 50V is for AC). Must admit I'd still not want to get across 120V DC; where I work we used to have a 50V DC battery backup supply for critical kit, all distributed with open-frame fuse panels. I came in contact with it many times and it gives quite an unpleasant nip, so I don't like to think what 120V DC would feel like. Perhaps there is less risk of fibrillation, hence the higher voltage permitted for DC ELV? Lovely lights by the way - extremely stylish and I sincerely appreciate that you have designed them to have replaceable LEDs, I think it is ridiculous that we throw away whole fittings because the LEDs or built-in drivers are not repairable.
@@HudsonLighting if I’m not mistaken the gent is incorrect, these are not wired in series they’re wired in parallel? Same as downlights for example
Just the wattage of the driver that is limiting you though is that right?
@@rossthompson1635 I do tend to agree with you. I had a customer once put our lights on a 100W driver. If the driver was at full load the circuit would be sitting at 285V DC. If you design with smaller drivers then the max output voltage is less. It will only ever be at the max if it's under full load too. We most commonly sell 20W drivers and those will sit at 57V if they have 20W of lights on them
@@ja_adam_ downlightd etc or conventional connections like sockets are all parallel. Constant current lights are always series wired (black feeding the next red etc,). I think that's what you mean unless you were referring to something else @ja?
What type of work pants are they using
Bläklader
Love the instruction video on untangling rope....wasted some time, cheers. Nice sweatshirts..
I'm confused; lower current [pressure] (350mA) can 'push'' further (1-2km) compared to 1A 'pushing 300-400m?;How can lower pressure push harder/further?
Resistance is partly why. As the current goes up resistance increases. But also the driver deals with the volt drop. It raises the voltage to deal with the losses
@@HudsonLighting that kinda makes sense, ELV isn't something I have much knowledge about, I can definitely see the upsides to using ELV outside - I saw a video from David Savery, turning effectively LV fittings into ELV by throwing it on a driver and a E22 to MR16 presentation converter to take the different bulb and I saw sold 🤣
Current is not pressure.
In electricity, in explaining things to non proficienct people it is common to use the water and plumbing analogy and in this analogy it is the voltage, not current which is the equivalent of pressure.
It's a constant current source, which means that the current remains constant and it is the voltage that changes.
So the more resistance you add to the output of that current source, the current remains constant and the voltage across the output will change.
Love this video so far but for some reason in this video i keep hearing ducks instead of ducts so i keep gettin confused for a second every now and again til my brain realise oh its ducts
Luke is either very patient or slightly annoyed at 15:23 when waiting for him to stop talking
He definitely was thinking shut the f up 😂
how can you connect an L.E.D the wrong way round? diodes only permit current flow one way don't they?
They only want flow in one dirction. Reverse it and it blows. It varies between led manufacturers, some are more sensitive to reverse current. We put two diodes on our protection circuit in front of the white and red led to stop that issue
If you have an LED rated for a forward voltage of 3.3V and a reverse voltage of 6V, then connecting it backwards won't do anything; negligible current (on the order of a couple of microamps) will flow because the applied voltage isn't high enough to cause the diode to break down. You can exploit this to put two LEDs in parallel, but wired in opposite directions. Apply voltage one way and one of the LEDs will light up; the other one won't conduct much of anything. Apply voltage the other way and the situation reverses. It's very common for a diode's reverse withstand rated voltage to be much higher than its forward voltage, permitting this situation to exist indefinitely.
@Aaron Jones the voltage the flows through the LED in series could be 120VDC or even more if you wasn't going for ELV. It's current that kills LEDs if you can't control the voltage necessary across each
@@HudsonLightingTechnically voltage doesn't flow through anything. It is current that flows, and voltage is always *across* two points.
All diodes have a maximum reverse bias voltage which causes breakdown of the component.
In reverse bias, the diode has a high resistance and the only current that flows is a miniscule reverse saturation current.
When the diode unde reverse bias has a voltage across it greater than its maximum reverse voltage then the diode fails and a large current flows.
For rectification diodes this maximum reverse voltage can be as high as 1000 volts, but for LEDs it is typically a lot lower, but from what I have seen, rarely quoted.
So, if you break a wire (same as hot swapping) you are saying that it will cause a split second 2amp peek and blow all of them?
If you break the connection then no, because there is no return path. If you were to connect them back again love then yes, but unlikely all. Probably just one or two
@@HudsonLighting That's just down to poor quality drivers. Don't use Saxby!
@@sdgelectronics all of them do it. Weve developed an anti hot swap device but not patented it yet. Most drivers you see exist in several brands. The Saxby one is re packaged for Orlight, Aurora and others. We sell allot of Meanwell and they do it too
@@HudsonLighting not all. It's because they added output capacitance to reduce the ripple current. The drivers that run at a higher flyback frequency and are better quality don't do it, like some of the XP Power modules. There are some Meanwell ones too. It's basically because they are made cheaply and the capacitance is a quick fix!
@@sdgelectronics we supply the Meanwell LCM and AP range and they all have this issue. Do you know which Meanwell don't? I take a look at XP, thanks
Early birdy,what are the best snips to buy as an apprentice currently have ck don’t really like them
CK do some great tools. But for pliers, cutters etc there is only Knipex
Depends on what you want to pay, personally I love NWS cutters. For cable shears you can't beat Boddingtons or Knipex.
Beautiful apart from dat nasty jb, I'll stick to my spur armoured jb and GU10 in hosepipe
Wow! Luke was actually working and not on the phone 😂
Did you specify warm white or was it the customer?
I always use 5k for outdoor lighting.
2700k. Designer specified and I always would too. Outdoor lighting isn't great for wildlife, but 2700k is way less disruptive than 5000k. Plus 5000k is cold and uninviting
@@HudsonLightingTotally agree. I always find around 3000 Kelvin is a great colour to use.
When those blue ropes does not have a drum and is wrapped in plastic. Do not remove the plastic whatever you do. make a hole in either side and pull the rope from the inside. They are not designed to be rolled out but pulled from the inside. Unfortunatley that willalso twist the rope when you take it out though you can mitigate that by untwisting it when you pull it out.
if one light in the loop goes bad all the other will go out?
the lighting guy is a beast!
Thanks 😊
I think I'd stick with parallel lighting where possible, do the series lights bypass themselves if they are blown, so you can keep the others on or is it like an old set of fairy lights, where one goes out and the lot go off? :)
Many have a internal bypass unless they have a catastrophic failure. Ours have a gold wire bypass. We are working on a full bypass currently
@@HudsonLightinghat's really good because this issue is pretty much only one I have against series wiring.
Can you explain how gold wire bypass works?
And permanent bypass - not much into electronics, but judging by the way of how CC driver works, is that a Schottky diode in parallel with LED and threshold just a hair over it?
@@Kinnikinnick Cree LEDs have a gold wire bypass in them. So if the led isn't absolutely mullered the current goes via that. You've got it in one on the bypass circuit 🔥🔥
so basically half of the video is a sales pitch from Hudson lighting..
Do you know if Dan at DSS is ok? I miss his content.
Yes! Spoke with him last week, he's all good just wanted to step away from RUclips so the channel is 'hidden'
The price for some outside lighting is absurd , had a quote back from a brand a couple of lights in the steps , one light to go in the drive couplr for planter 14,500 quid and they called back to change it as they forgot to add the 75 pound delivery charge 👍
🎉🎉🎉
The bloke who owns the house must be a retired sparky LOL
15:21 😂😂😂😂
I hope the boys learned with blue rope, take from the middle, the coil can sit in container, so no tangles.
Random but can you answer how shaver socket isolating transformer works. How do you not get a shock if touching live when stood on the ground making contact with earth, but you would still get a shock if this was a standard light switch for example with the earth removed?
The earth is removed on the shaver socket right? I don’t get how you don’t get a shock can you help?
I think the idea is you would still get a shock but it's reduced. Aren't they like 110v transformers double tapped so only 55v potential
@@HudsonLighting I'm not sure if they're center tapped or not, but they're definitely isolated transformers, so floating and not referenced to earth. ie. you can only get a shock by touching both conductors at the same time. They're also limited to 20VA output which heavily limits the current to < 0.2A
@@HudsonLighting also, I'm a maintenance spark for an old stately home and I'm really interested in your lighting products - but I get errors when trying to add an account to see pricing, I'm not sure if it's broken for everyone or not. Thanks.
@@havoctrousers It's floating output, but you will usually get a small shock from contacting just one pole of the output. The transformers are low cost and compact so the inter-winding capacitance is quite high.
An isolating transformer has (the clue is in the name) isolated outputs. The line conductor is only normally dangerous to come into contact with because its nominal RMS potential with respect to neutral is 230V, *and the neutral conductor is earthed somewhere* (this is why it's called neutral; its potential with respect to the earth itself is supposed to be close to 0V). Therefore you can become a path for current to flow from line back to neutral, through your body and then the earth. The two outputs of an isolating transformer will also have a potential difference between them, but there's no other path for current to flow; you *have* to come into contact with *both* conductors, otherwise nothing happens. Therefore there is no "line" and "neutral" on the output of an isolating transformer, unless you earth one of them (making it the neutral conductor), but then that would defeat the point because you've provided a fault path (through earth) back to the transformer and you may as well not be using it.
Leaving a job site by declaring your going for a massage - quality Jordanism ,next week Lee is going for a pedicure 👍
😂😂😂
Shouldn't that be a constant current driver?
They are on constant current driver's. A meanwell dimmable 0-10V one and a few Saxby (not for brand, just because the Chinese factory they come out of is repackaged for about 5 brands and it's actually decent)
The explanation on parallel vs series circuit arrangements for lighting LEDs was slightly correct but more so incorrect. A series arrangement would in-fact make LEDs in the circuit dimmer. When applying KCL to a series circuit, it can be observed that each node only possesses two connections. The current into each node must be equal to the current exiting, thus current is constant through each LED in a series circuit. In series, resistance sums proportionally to the resistance of each component. When applying KVL in a series circuit, the equivalent voltage of the source must be dropped across the entire chain, inferring that if the source voltage is not great enough to meet the circuit demands, LEDs in the circuit will be less bright due to the increasing resistance which reduces the amount of current flowing. In comparison, parallel circuits provide a constant voltage drop across all components but current divides through each branch depending on its resistance. Resistance in parallel is the inverse of the sum of the inverse of each components resistance. Assuming that each branch contains an equal resistance (all LEDs are the same), all LEDs in the circuit will glow at the same brightness regardless of how many branches the circuit contains due to the decreasing resistance which permits a greater current to flow.
You've missed some fairly important aspects about the design with your Kirchhoff analysis, especially the type of power supply used and the resistance of the cables to each LED.
What’s wrong with candles
A house like that, and they have a £250 inflatable hot tub... Nice!
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Just put a piece of wood through the blue string 🤔😎
Take the cord from the centre of the reel lads
Garden lighting??? Well, that just reminded me of old timey RUclipsr DSS Electrical. I wonder what ever happened to Dan :(
He's still around, bought some lights from us for a project last week. Just wanted away from YT