ford fusion 2.5L Alternator Replacement
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- Опубликовано: 7 авг 2024
- Ford Fusion 2.5 4 cyl alternator replacement.
one of the easiest ones to do.
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7 year old video and I can’t thank you enough….saved me time and a headache
your welcome
I'm glad you made this as I couldn't find another video for this motor. My son has a 2011 fusion 2.5. I've done about every job that can be at least once on various motors and most are the same with the little differences so I research. Changing the alternator on this compared to my suburban 5.3l is pretty different and I learn a lot by research and videos in particular so your video helped me a lot with the smaller details required for this engine and model. Thanks!
hey there and your welcome. glad the video was helpful to you
Wish every video that I watch to learn how to do something for the first time was exactly like this one. Well done and many thanks for sharing! Very helpful and on point!
hey thanks . i try my best to make it simple and to the point.
Thankfully it wasn't my alternator. But thank you for this video so I know what to do if my alternator ever goes! You did a good job explaining how to replace it.
yes thanks for the comment . i hope this helps you in the future
Thank thank thank !!!
You literally saved me $465 dollars from a shop..I purchased the alternator myself for $180 .this video .ade it so easy compared to others that made it more difficult with removing all kinds of crap..ty
your welcome and thanks for watching.
Man. The other 2 videos I watched had to disassemble the shields, wheel, oil, ac, and sub frame assembly to do this…. I’ve been freaking out. But this looks doable! Only my second time working on a car so wish me luck!!!
yeah from what i know there is some variation of the setup .but i hope this helps you
Having issues with my 2010 ford fusion not starting every time and the dash lights and gauges going crazy and everything I've looked up has told me that its most likely the connectors to the alternator. Good video for showing where those are! Thanks!
hey there your welcome . im glad the video was of help
This video is hopefully going to help me with my Ford today, i just had to have it towed. Going to watch it a couple more times and then take a crack at my Alternator. Wish me luck!
if you have any questions feel free to ask
Thanks for the vid! I’ve been googling and checking RUclips on how to change my 2011 Mazda Tribute 2.5 alternator. This is the exact same engine and location on my SUV. I wasn’t sure how to disconnect those harness and where the screws were on bottom. Big help👍🏼
hey thtats good to know. and thanks for the comment
thank you for the video. all the others i watched were a different year and alt placement. this looks like it should be pretty simple/quick to swap.
This vid helped me tons a year ago on my 2010 fusion, sucks that now I gotta do it again because it went bad already. I'm sure this will help me again though.
hey there. your welcome. im glad this has helped you
Nice video man, I'm probably gonna be watching this over and over agian real soon as a reference point while changing the alternator in my wife's car. Thanks for sharing this
it seems a little scary at first but dont let it intimidate you . its not as bad . is there anything in the video thats not clear ?
@@motorsportfactory nope everything as far as I can see looked pretty straight forward. Only question I have is how hard was it actually to pull the alternator out after it's been disconnected. Was there anything in the way where you had to do see weird twist aerial assault maneuver to get it out? Lol. You know what I mean when there's no room at all to get things out
@@JonsDailyHustle not much weird stuff. but where i said at around 3 min 20 sec range. i said to take the stud out and have the alt pulley face up and pull out. you may have to do a little twisting and turning here and there though
@@motorsportfactory oh yeah you did say that ok. Thanks for the help man. I will definitely be using your vid to change one here pretty soon
Subbed. You're awesome dude. Every other video had me taking off so much crap
yeah i understand . and thanks for the sub. i do have one video of a car im taking off so much stuff that was not needed but i did it to be able to show a visual of what needed to be taken off
Thanks for the video. Very well explained
overall good job. I had questions about the 2007 alternator air duct and heat shields but a Ford Focus video answered my issue (similar design wrt those parts)
i havent worked on the 2007 so i couldnt say. but if its similar to this one thats great.
Thank you so much😁 finding that E8 socket was super painful though had to order it online in the middle of working on it😭
ususally harbor freight 300 pc mechanic tool kits have them. but thanks for watching
Great video and thanks for specifying the year and engine. First one I saw they didn't and I thought I was going to have to undo engine mounts. Not cool.
hey you are very welcome. i try to be as detailed as i can
I like this video,thank you...everything was good,but this video need 1 more thing explained....that we have to remove the side cover and how to take out the plastic or little cover locks around to the tire...but everything was good and help me to replace the alternator more easy (than pay $140 to mechanic just for do it)only that part make me feel frustrated...and now my car it's working thanks!!
the thing is that this one didnt have those side covers by the tires when i got the car. but the same time its not a hard thing to figure out to to.
When one first looks down into the area where the alternator is located it appears to be unreachable. This video proved otherwise. thank you for doing this.
This was supper helpful. Thanks
thanks Bro, I think I'm gonna watch this vid a couple of times and try it myself. got a Fusion, 2012 too.
yeah its not very hard. sorry for any camera shake. i have some better gear now. but dont hesitate to ask anything if your stuck or not sure of something
Thank you for a great straight forward video!
and thank you for watching
Nice explanation, thanks for the info. Now to put it to use......
hey there thanks for the comment and your welcome. this job is not hard at all.
Thanks bro great video
Does the boat has to stay the position it's in
Awesome ima upgrade my oem alternator before it goes out , and replace it to a 370 amp ho hopefully all goes well my is 11 2.5l
Great video helped out alot thank you
you are very welcome
Great video! Question- that vent is really hard to get off. Any tips on how you removed it? My finger can't seem to press the release for it.
the vent has a tab you push in and it should wiggle off. if not try some penetrant and see if that works
Serpentine belt keeps ripping and falls out of place, found the pulley attached to the alternator is bent and crooked would I have to replace bot the the pulley or just the pulley ?
if the pulley is available that should do it. but make sure there is nothing else wrong with the alternator physically
Can I a ultima 150 amp for a Ford Fusion S 2.5
Is the same for taking one off a 09 mercury Milan
if the setup is the same then it will work. i havent worked on a Milan . but if you are sure its the same the follow the steps and you should be good to go
thanks for the help!!!! get video
First timer and am prepare!!, and can you do a video of doin struts and rear shocks?
i will try and do that one day. when i come across this car again
It only has one terminal for the positive battery right. This alternator doesnt have a negative charging cable . Just positive sorry wanting to know because I'm planning on doing the 0 gauge alternator to battery upgrade thanks
from what i remember there should only be a positive cable
Thanks for the vid bro!!... I installed a high output alternator in my 2011... the heat sheild didn't fit the aftermarket alternator.... what do I suggest I do about it?? Thanks again for the vid!!
well if its too big and it wont fit. just drive it like that and see how things go.
I'm about to put a 390a ho alt in mine and I wonder if mine is an exact fit as well. Who'd you go thru?
Thanks for your video it's helpful. I am trying to replace my 2010 Fusion alternator. The vent which come off very easy near the beginning of your video does not want to release on mine, any suggestions are appreciated. I pressed it on the back side and wiggled and pulled but it's not coming off.
try to spray some wd40 on the tab part of it. you may need to wiggle it out too.
Motorsport Factory thanks for the quick reply, I'll try some WD 40.
I sprayed with WD 40 and used a screw diver to press in on tab and it popped right off. Thanks again for the reply, making progress!
@@douglasbest8136 right on bro. glad to be of help
The local Ford Dealer diagnosed my problem as the alternator. When I carried it to them it was making a whining noise but the battery light was not burning. When I picked the car up it was still whining but the battery light was now burning. After I finished installing the NAPA alternator the battery light is no longer burning up but the car still whines. I am thinking the next step is to loosen the belt and feel the pulleys it turns to check for any wobble or friction, along with closely checking the belt. I didn't pay as much attention to this as I should have since the dealership said my problem was the alternator. Thanks again your video and feedback was very helpful. Not having done much mechanic work lately I worked on this for a right good while. But I'm retired so I can pick my projects.
My 2012 fusion has massive sound system n just killed an alternator n im going to a audio rated one so thanks for the help
oh nice. yes its best to upgrade the alternaor when you putting in a massive sound system. you may need more than one alternator depending on how big you going. plus you may need more batteries
@@motorsportfactory just a 1200 watt rms 2000 peak
Seeing where it was i was like this is gonna be nightmare but ur walk threw made me happy cuz seems pretty straight forward i always like to see what im up against now my impala 3800 was a dream alternator job
@@DHGZOMBIEKILLER hey im glad the video helped . thanks for the comment
What were the tools you needed for this job?
sorry for not showing that in the video. you need a 13mm socket. 15mm deep socket,e8 socket for the studs. 14mm socket. good long ractchet
Thanks bro!!
Thanks doing one now
Had to do mind twice. Glad you made that video
Does the Bell has to stay in the same position I take it off
i dont understand what you are asking . please clarify
So uh I just changed mine and the 13 mm nut will not go back on the terminal of the alternator with the boot… do I need to get a new 13mm nut for it?
I thought the belt was rough until I’ve come into this nut issue tryna put everything back together 😓
@@hsmdabz4922 didnt the new alternator come with it or no. cause it should have
@@motorsportfactory it in fact did! I don’t know how I managed to miss it lol thank you!
@@hsmdabz4922 you are welcome
How did you get the stud out ?
you need a e8 socket to unscrew the stud.
MY GUY!!!! Have anymore videos on this car??
not at the moment. what do you have in mind . ill try to make a video if i get a car again
What size bolt is the tensioner?
i think it was 14mm
Serpentine belt routing is obvious
Smooth side to smooth side
Groove side to groove side
I can't get the cover off the alternator. I've been pressing all over the cover and I haven't felt anything to press in
you dont see a tab anywhere on that vent?.. try using a mirror to see if there is one. if not try to just wiggle it out
So what should i do if the bottom stud is strip at the tip so its hard to turn or loosen
have you tried using vice grips. or sometimes what i do is take paper and insert to the socket or wall. and that way it can grip the nut or tip of stud so it dont slip off. if that makes sense
@@motorsportfactory the vice grips did the trick thank you
@@jerewhere you are welcome
Does this apply to an ford fusion hybrid
i cant really say cause i never worked on the hybrid. but if you follow this video and if you feel everything looks the same then go for it
thanks bro!
you welcome friend. !!!
Thanks
Hey man, not sure if you’ll see this. But after changing out the alternator. I routed a new belt on. And there’s about 3 inches of slack. I made sure I routed it correctly. I’m thinking somethings wrong with the tensioner? I matched up the belt to the old belt, same size. I’m stumped here. Just wondering if you had any pointers. Thanks, great video aswell.
Alternators the same size and part aswell.
@@bobtheatog try putting the old belt back on. if its doing the same thing it may be the tensioner
@@motorsportfactory yeah, it’s doing the same thing with the old belt. I can route the belt without the tensioner “torqued” or “pushed in” if that makes sense. I can move the tensioner back and forath, so it seems to be working. Maybe somethings busted inside the tensioner? My apologies if it’s worded confusing. Appreciate the reply
@@bobtheatog try putting the old alt back on . i know its a bit of a pain but it to check to make sure its the right one. if it works right then it was the alt the whole time. if not try the tensioner. but if you wanna do the tensioner first to make things easier that might be it
@@motorsportfactory sounds good, thanks for the tips
thank you
you are welcome
I think I need a new one. I bought a new battery and the car keeps dying out could it be my alternator? If so how much do mechanics charge to change them out
it has got to be the alternator. there are tools that snap on makes called the micro vat which can test starter battery and alternator all at same time. or shops like autozone that can test the alternator. but you have to take it out and take it to them and have them test it . it will tell you right away if its bad. i dont know what shops around your area will charge but they should test it before replacing it
@@motorsportfactory we got it tested but everything read good along with the engine
@@Berserkercustoms44 check to see if you have stored codes. even tho if you dont have a CEL on . if you have codes then check the issues that pertain to that. if not that it could be a transmission issue
@@motorsportfactory the mechanic found the issue it was a wire from the alternator that was sitting on the manifold i believe that was causing a short
@@Berserkercustoms44 thats good. i was gonna bring up wiring and shorts as the next thing too . but good thing the mechanic found it
Hi sir nice video .I have a 2006 ford fusion 2.3 4cyl. Is of same procedure .? Help. Thanks.
i cant really say . but if you follow the video along and see if it all looks the same as you are doing it. you should be fine
@@motorsportfactory what year is of car you working un this video sir ?? Is 6 cyl or 4cyl. Can u tell me please
@@tonycervantes4816 its a 4cyl and i think this was 2010 or 2012
@@motorsportfactory thanks sir..
I think is of same like mine. How long takes to remove sir..?? What is E8 bit??
What year is this car?
i believe this model i worked on was a 2012 or 15 i forget
What year was this vehicle?
i think this was 2012 or 2014 i cant remember sorry
@@motorsportfactory you mean 2010 to 2012
@@bayfinest1938 i believe so. did i say something else in the video. sorry if i did.
2.3
Does it work the same way on a 2009?
i havent worked on the 09 yet. but as long as everything is same as this video. then your good. cuz i think the other models the alternator is more toward the front bottom on passenger side. pretty much behind the bumper .
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“I can do these alternators all day” that’s reassuring. My cars on and off starting when it wants now. Battery 1 year old. Alternator 3+ years old came with the car when I got. Car just decided to do with after an oil change. Jumps fine. 12.65 volts when off. If I turn it off and start again then turn off then try to start again a third time it just clicks no crank. Anybody have ideas?
the battery could still possibly be bad. when you do a in depth test it like they do at autozone . it can tell you its not getting a good charge etc. or it could be another problem entirely. have the starter checked out. cause it sounds like intermittent issue. do you have a CEL on . if you do check those too
@@motorsportfactory update. Had charging system tested and it passed first and second time the battery showed 100% charged 12.96v but bad so just just gave me a new one for the hell of it. Now the problem is worse. And I discovered it will stay on as long as you have the gas pedal down. The second the rpms go below let’s say 1000 it stalls and shows battery and oil light. Tap on the gas in park gently one time to 2000 rpms and the car immediately drops to 0 then back to 1000 then just stalls. I have 8/8 symptoms of bad maf sensor and about 3/5 symptoms of purge valve. Filled gas to full just in case bad fuel pump and nothing changed. It’s just confusing that it happened right after oil change. Probably just a coincidence
@@Mike-we3rb yeah sometimes things happen at a werid time. also check the transmission. if its automatic it could be a torque converter issue
@@motorsportfactory wouldn’t that just be air fuel thing? I know there’s something else wrong with the tranny anyways. Sometimes the car hesitates and then jerks as it’s changing gears but has never gotten worse in 2 years.
@@Mike-we3rb honestly its hard to say without lookin at it. you have to check all possible things like the maf. idle valve. i say tranny cause that can cause stalling too. if the TC is bad. without me able to look at it i couldnt give you a definite answer. but check also things like o2 sensors, damaged electrical. to water or any kind of fluid that may have leaked onto it.best way to know is hook up a scanner to see how everything is performing
The fuck is E8..... this job really makes me hate ford, they coulda easily made that stud 1/2" shorter so this would come out without a problem