Your Video saved me!!!! I just replaced the resistor and was trying to figure out why the Max A/C would close off the vents... I checked the grey line and found a crack near the rubber elbow. Cut the line back and put in the elbow....Victory!! I need the A/C here is Mississippi! 1998 Ranger back in action. Thanks for posting!!
Oh wow! I have the exact same problem with my '96 Ford Ranger!! Climbing hills or doing hard acceleration would always stop the air from flowing thru the main vents and instead would push it thru the defroster vents. I drove it with this condition for many many years and somehow remember way back in the early days of my owning this truck, seeing this tube that was just dangling in the engine compartment. I'm glad you made a video about this, thanks!
It's a simple fix too. Minimal tools and time. I now have a better camcorder which means better resolution when I film. I wish I had it then. Been looking at a GoPro for this filming also. I tell my wife it's an "auto part" when I make such large purchases.
I have the same truck with the 4.0. I found 2 lines and a free hanging elbow and couldn't figure out where they went. I googled "99 Ranger vacuum lines" and you came in and gave all the info I needed. Thanks man. Subbed
Thanks a million ive been trying to get this to work correctly since i first got the truck back in high school. thanks again it saved me a fortune in labor alone much less taking it to a shop to repair.
Excellent video. You easily saved me a lots of time and money. In my 2000 Ford ranger I found a bad heater valve. Purchased one at rock auto for about 35.00 dollars. Everything it's working just fine. Once again thank you.
I have stood in the presence of greatness this video is the best on youtube since the big bang. an astonishingly good job and one the entire community should pay homage to thanks
thank you.i watched 8 videos and could not fix my problem until yours, i had a front end wreck and vacuum hoses got cut and lost. could not figure out how to run them until your video. now i got a/c coming out a/c vents and not defrost vents. thanks again.
Great advise. took my car to a auto shop who could not figure the problem. The same vacuum line you showed was broken off at the connector. I removed the broken piece and inserted the hose works perfect. Thank you
Real good video. I'm lucky , my 2000 Ranger has few problems. U simplified the process for everyone watching. I'm going to remember this one. Good video From Sacramento
This was one of thr most informative videos I've seen. Thank you so much. My current 2000 Ford explorer is having the same issue and now I know exactly what to look for. I've actually seen there diaphragm and the gray hose is missing completely. Can't wait to wake up tomorrow and get started. Thanks again. 💪😎🔥
My front passenger tire started to shed on the freeway and destroyed that exact hose and I couldn't figure out what was wrong with my truck till I watched your video. Many thanks 😁
Saw a small white tube that some how split while I was changing my IAC valve and could not figure out where it went too. This vid helped me out a lot so thank you!
Right on, mine wasn't the same line but at the water control valve was cracked. But you video was so clear as to the lines and places they go. Awesome thanks for taking the time to put it here for everyone.
Your welcome. This stuff keeps me busy and out of trouble. Whenever I need to buy or fix anything I tell my wife it's an "auto part". I have lots of new tools using that statement.
It would be nice to be in the same area with you, Im the same way when it comes to working on cars and my old Goldwing.. Keep it up your making some good videos that help others. The main thing I see is you put a lot of effort and you seem to enjoy it. Thanks a lot from me and many other....
Lol I’m having problems convincing my wife parts and tools for explorer might get by but for my motorcycle it’s hell. Lol have a good one. Say have you had issues with temp gauge not working?
Thanks Tom for posting this video. I have the exact same problem with my 99 ford ranger xlt. I was beginning to think that my alternator was the problem. I was having the same problem as you were. The air conditioning fan would slow way down when I was accelerating or climbing a hill
I liked the video and the way you explained things in the beginning. but after you reconnected everything I lost you to the smoke thingy and you never showed how it worked after all vacuum lines were all connected back the way they should have been. but really good video you explained what you was doing as you were doing it, were on a lot of other videos I believe they stop and have a few beers and when they return to the video I think they forgot what they were doing. Again great video and very informative. Will defiantly check out more of your videos. Keep up the good work
FWIW, I found I had a missing vacuum tube to the canister, so I just bypassed the canister and connected the AC controls directly to the manifold. I took it on a test drive and it seemed to work fine. I'm sure there are some situations where the doors would move but under normal driving conditions it performed well.
Regular ole Perry Mason...that Tom. hehe Just teasin', buddy. You kept my attention thought-out (an astonishing accomplishment!) the video. Sincerely, from the attention deficit disorder since birth to traumatic brain injury in a skateboard accident I've had my fair share of challenges and obstacles with focus. In effort to minimize if not eliminate possible misinterpretations (as speech and communicating are prime examples of the challenges and obstacles I mentioned) let me clarify I'm not whining...by any means. The few times I get a glimpse at effortlessly staying attentive (engaged) without the bells and whistles they're noticed, appreciated and declared. God bless you, my friend.😃
The part you're calling the diaphragm? Is a heater control valve that allows hot water into your heater core hoses or not. My 97 ranger had the same issue with the hard type hose breaking off too. That vacuum hose issue caused me to not have heat or cold AC. Bad design by Ford.
Thank you so much for such a great explanation... Did you notice an increased performance of the A/C, now that the door was closed and no air was entering from the outside?
Mine had a temperature drop of about 10 degrees F. But I couldn’t find the vaccum leak and I had to do something quick to reduce the fuel consumption and increase the a/c performance. I will follow your instructions to make my own smoke machine. Thank you for your time and effort.
Make sure you check the entire system for vacuum. On my truck the reservoir was under things on the front passenger bumper. Took a little digging to get to it and check. Once you remove the plastic fender shield things are so much easier to see and access.
Sir, I have a question here on a 1998 Ranger, 2.5, no a/c. The white tube coming off the vacuum tank ends at the washer and coolant tanks. Capped off from the previous owner because he eliminated the heater valve. Where would the tube continue to the firewall and connect to ‘what’ ? The tube coming out of the firewall to the ‘heater valve’ is still there doing nothing. Please help- Ken.
very good video I have the exact ranger as yours except mine is 4×4 I have a high idle when it starts up air conditioning don't work and air don't come out of the front vents it only comes out of the defrost vent and I noticed the door on the right side by the glove box don't open like what you was showing do you think I might have the same problem you had
Your presentation was very thorough and well spoken! I will be trying to hook my loose vacuum lines like yours (almost identical situation). Although, I'm working with an Eddie Bauer 2001 Explorer 5.0L with automatic EATC. Someone, however told that mine does't require a Heater Control Valve (you called it a "4-port Water Outlet Valve) since my EATC is Automatic, meaning that the temperatures, fan speeds, blend doors are automatically controlled by sensors etc. unless you override them using digital push buttons vs a Manual one (which has knobs to turn to adjust the temperature, fan speed etc.), Can you please tell me which one you have? Wish me luck! And thanks for your GREAT VIDEO!
Mine is manual control-dials. Everything is operated by vacuum. It's a bit easier to fix since the sensors would have to be traced and tested if something goes wrong. Gotta have the specs about how much voltage a sensor would receive or put out also I'm sure.
Yes... A lot more to check I guess. Ugh. I just purchased a hand held vacuum tester/bleeder like urs! Where did you (should I) hook up my hand held Vacuum tester to test the Door Vacuum Motor (the actuator thing with the arm)/vacuum lines? If you don't answer that's ok. I paid JUST ANSWER to collaborate with a pro mechanic. More $$$ spent! Ugh. btw - the original problem was having to replace the heater core. $$$
Right about 11:40 in the video I point out the connector is at the bottom of the vacuum actuator. It's on the bottom and out of sight. There is a white vacuum line running to it I believe. Pop if off and connect the tester there.
Great video. I have the same problem exactly, plus my four wheel drive won't engage. Do you think that would also cause four wheel drive problem? I'm pretty sure that is vacuum operated also. Thanks.
The Water control valve vacuum line is notorious for cracking due to the exhaust manifold. i Just pulled all of the hard vacuum lines and spayed them with flex-seal to seal up any crack or pin holes.
Hello, I have the same problem with my 1998 Ford Ranger. I found a broken grey vacuum hose on the where yours is. Near the firewall, but cannot find where the plug is. I am hoping that it is under the splash guard to make the connection. Does that sound about right?? Thanks for your assistance! Frank N.
Nice this helped mine is the broke is the one that goes from the coil pack area to under the wiper fluid so right on top in plain sight ! what size tubing was that
Tom, I am sorry to bother you again, most of my gray vacuum hose is toast. So can you tell me where in the firewall the gray tube connects. I do not see it in the glove b ox??? Thanks very much for your reply!!!
It should pass through. You must pull the inner plastic wheel well to see it. There is a line that comes from the reservoir at the front and about midway the is a connector and the line changes color. That line runs to the firewall and through.
I used a little piece of shrink tube and shrink tubed the two pieces together.... it worked great and it was easy. p.s. I had a roomate smash the right front fender (passenger)... it hit the vacumn accumulator and smashed the crap out of it... Im waiting for the body shop to fix it....
This put me on somewhat the right track! I had a hose completely burned to bits. Put that thing on, and the entire truck came back to life. Ac and heat work, I must've gained 30hp, the thing doesnt sound like its dying, and one weird one.... It drives straight now. Someone tell me thats no hallucination. It was aligned perfect before and always pulled hard right. I called it "automatic lane change" theres gotta be a reason right?
I have had the same problemwithmyranger the previousowner did a engineswap and who knows wear the vacuumlines went or go .it still cycles from vent to defrost ????
hello. can you tell me if you are supposed to be able to use the hot/cold rotary knob when the AC is set to MAX (which i assume is re-circulation mode). mine is stuck on maximum cold in the MAX mode. i can use the hot/cold control knob is the AC is set to normal (non-recirc) mode. many thanks. i have a 1996 ford ranger 3L V6.
Yes, you should be able to feel warm air if the AC knob is on MAX and you adjust the temp knob. Yes, MAX is recirculation mode. I'm no mechanic, but it is rare that the switches go bad. I would suspect a leak somewhere in the interior where the harness runs between the switches and the black box. The best way to find any leaks is to use the vacuum gauge. You can see the interior lines around 12:38. It would be odd if the temp switch is bad since it does work in the normal mode. Logically, it should work in the MAX mode too unless there is a leak. It could be something tiny. I do have a few pages from the Mitchell DIY site I used to have a subscription to. I would have to scan and send to you in a private email.
help! I have the exact same issue plus the two vacuum hoses that go in the "round tank" have holes in them. do you know the OEM part number for all three hoses I need to replace them
Sorry, I do not. Try fordparts.com and search for the lines there. You have to know your VIN #, 2 or 4 wheel drive, etc. Can you not piece them together as in my video. The vacuum line trick I used is what the mechanics would do (independents). Works fine and saves a ton of $$.
TOM2RN I used electric tape. For some of them the tear was at the connector... The grey one just melted because of the exhaust heat right underneath it.. I tied the heater hoses off to the side to avoid the same issue happening again. I think I need a heat shield soon
i have a ranger 97. i am getting a misfire on cylinders 1 and 5 along with a purge flow sensor circuit high input. do these have any relation to eachother that can narrow down the issue? any input is def appreciated, thank you sir! :)
I wouldn't think so since the purge flow deals with the EVAP system. Your could most likely get a rough idle. Here's a url which might help. It seems that the misfiring can cause an emissions problem. Did you check the OBD II code(s)? www.tomorrowstechnician.com/most-common-causes-of-misfire-codes/
I did a little research. Mind you, I'm not a mechanic, but look a lot of stuff up. Looked at the Haynes on my 99. You may have a bad ignition coil as well as the EVAP system. It just so happens cylinder 1 and 5 are paired. Do you have a Haynes and multimeter? I would get or borrow these. When you mentioned cylinder 5 I knew you have a 6 cylinder. I like the coil over style since it's easier to diagnose. If 5 is bad, just trade it with one that doesn't pop a code and see if it pops the code in the new location. Easy diagnosis. Can't do it in this case.
The coil powers the spark plugs, not the injectors. The injectors are controlled by the electronic control unit. The coil produces the spark. That's why if you are on the wrong end of it and you crank the car it will light you up, so to speak. In this case, your firing order has the 1 and 5 cylinder paired. I would get a multimeter and test the coil first. Haynes is a good reference. If those resistances come out OK, then I would move on to the purge problem. I had to replace the charcoal canister on my 97 Camry a few years back. There were two solenoids I had to replace also since the technical service bulletin said they could become clogged with debris from the bad charcoal canister. Pricey stuff. I would do the multimeter check first to prevent buying and installing parts unnecessarily.
I have a Mitey VAC. Disconnected both ends and plugged one with a cap or plug. Connected to the other end and pumped. If it doesn’t hold vacuum, it’s a problem.
Holy fucking hell. No wonder. I have been staring at that broken line for the longest time. Never thought a single thing of it. My god. So is this why when I push the brake down you hear air hissing?
Sorry, I don't always receive email notifications when people leave comments. Yes, it is a 5 in 1 connector. I work in a hospital and I have all kinds of connectors to choose from.
It's called a heater control valve. They're around $15 at any parts store. It allows hot water through your heater core hoses or closes it off during AC. If you're referring to the part that Tom keeps calling a diaphragm and the part that the hard grey hose broke off of.
@@karitunes1 Not the heater control valve under the hood, I’m talking about the part that controls the little door under the dash that allows you to recirculate the air in the cabin. Not the blend door or the blend door actuator. But the door that sits right in front of the blower motor
Your Video saved me!!!! I just replaced the resistor and was trying to figure out why the Max A/C would close off the vents... I checked the grey line and found a crack near the rubber elbow. Cut the line back and put in the elbow....Victory!! I need the A/C here is Mississippi! 1998 Ranger back in action. Thanks for posting!!
Oh wow! I have the exact same problem with my '96 Ford Ranger!! Climbing hills or doing hard acceleration would always stop the air from flowing thru the main vents and instead would push it thru the defroster vents. I drove it with this condition for many many years and somehow remember way back in the early days of my owning this truck, seeing this tube that was just dangling in the engine compartment. I'm glad you made a video about this, thanks!
It's a simple fix too. Minimal tools and time. I now have a better camcorder which means better resolution when I film. I wish I had it then. Been looking at a GoPro for this filming also. I tell my wife it's an "auto part" when I make such large purchases.
I have the same truck with the 4.0. I found 2 lines and a free hanging elbow and couldn't figure out where they went. I googled "99 Ranger vacuum lines" and you came in and gave all the info I needed. Thanks man. Subbed
5 years ago
And ur work still speaks for itself ✅
Thanks a million ive been trying to get this to work correctly since i first got the truck back in high school. thanks again it saved me a fortune in labor alone much less taking it to a shop to repair.
Excellent video. You easily saved me a lots of time and money. In my 2000 Ford ranger I found a bad heater valve. Purchased one at rock auto for about 35.00 dollars. Everything it's working just fine. Once again thank you.
I have stood in the presence of greatness this video is the best on youtube since the big bang. an astonishingly good job and one the entire community should pay homage to thanks
Great video Tom, I have a pesky vacuum leak on my 2002 mazda b4000 will be checking every thing out tomorrow, thanks for the upfront advice.
Thanks for taking the time to share this. Just wanted I needed to trace my 99 Ranger 4.0 vacuum lines.
thank you.i watched 8 videos and could not fix my problem until yours, i had a front end wreck and vacuum hoses got cut and lost. could not figure out how to run them until your video. now i got a/c coming out a/c vents and not defrost vents. thanks again.
Your welcome. Ahhhhh! Air conditioning.
Great advise. took my car to a auto shop who could not figure the problem. The same vacuum line you showed was broken off at the connector. I removed the broken piece and inserted the hose works perfect. Thank you
Real good video. I'm lucky , my 2000 Ranger has few problems. U simplified the process for everyone watching. I'm going to remember this one. Good video From Sacramento
Thanks so much for this man. Mine broke right around the same spot. Super easy fix!
This was one of thr most informative videos I've seen. Thank you so much. My current 2000 Ford explorer is having the same issue and now I know exactly what to look for. I've actually seen there diaphragm and the gray hose is missing completely. Can't wait to wake up tomorrow and get started. Thanks again. 💪😎🔥
Nestor Ortega
Your welcome.
I have the same issue man, but I have another line that isn’t connected. Reach back out if your willing to help.
Thank you, i didn't know where to start. Your voice is clear and intelligent. After warching this and able to find the hose immediately.
Thanks, I'm flattered. Best positive comment I have ever received.
'96 explorer here, mine split pretty much at the connector wow will be an easy fix thank you!!
Awesome video, I thought you were working on my Ranger, same color, same model, same problem, just 1 year newer, mine is 1998
Great Job! My 99 Ranger just started doing the same thing. You saved me days of looking.
Thanks for your time to do this.
My front passenger tire started to shed on the freeway and destroyed that exact hose and I couldn't figure out what was wrong with my truck till I watched your video. Many thanks 😁
Saw a small white tube that some how split while I was changing my IAC valve and could not figure out where it went too. This vid helped me out a lot so thank you!
I agree. This has got to be the Mack Daddy of all DIY instructional videos!
Right on, mine wasn't the same line but at the water control valve was cracked. But you video was so clear as to the lines and places they go. Awesome thanks for taking the time to put it here for everyone.
Your welcome. This stuff keeps me busy and out of trouble. Whenever I need to buy or fix anything I tell my wife it's an "auto part". I have lots of new tools using that statement.
It would be nice to be in the same area with you, Im the same way when it comes to working on cars and my old Goldwing.. Keep it up your making some good videos that help others. The main thing I see is you put a lot of effort and you seem to enjoy it. Thanks a lot from me and many other....
Lol I’m having problems convincing my wife parts and tools for explorer might get by but for my motorcycle it’s hell. Lol have a good one. Say have you had issues with temp gauge not working?
Awesome finally that was the same problem with my 1998 ranger now to get the gray vacuum tubing and splice the line. Will let you know how it works.
Thanks Tom for posting this video. I have the exact same problem with my 99 ford ranger xlt. I was beginning to think that my alternator was the problem. I was having the same problem as you were. The air conditioning fan would slow way down when I was accelerating or climbing a hill
You're welcome. This seems to be a fairly often viewed video of mine. It must have been a common problem.
Yes, my 1999 xlt ranger has been doing this for years. My best friend said he thought it was the alternator. Glad I saw your video. Thanks buddy!!
You taught me more about vacuum than ever.
Thank you sooooo much, I will look for all that stuff tomorrow.
I liked the video and the way you explained things in the beginning. but after you reconnected everything I lost you to the smoke thingy and you never showed how it worked after all vacuum lines were all connected back the way they should have been. but really good video you explained what you was doing as you were doing it, were on a lot of other videos I believe they stop and have a few beers and when they return to the video I think they forgot what they were doing. Again great video and very informative. Will defiantly check out more of your videos. Keep up the good work
good video. thanks for showing the vacuum lines
What an amazing video. Same truck. Same issue. Ty!!
Thank you!!!!! Awesome video! Thanks for the help an the info! I'm gonna fix mine this week
Good video. I had the same problem two days ago and the same exact line on my 96 ranger was broken lol. Thanks for the video!
FWIW, I found I had a missing vacuum tube to the canister, so I just bypassed the canister and connected the AC controls directly to the manifold. I took it on a test drive and it seemed to work fine. I'm sure there are some situations where the doors would move but under normal driving conditions it performed well.
Thanks, Tom that was exactly what was wrong,,,u saved the day!!!
you sir are a god. this is EXACTLY what i needed.
found your video, had the same issue. no more leaks. thanks
Regular ole Perry Mason...that Tom. hehe Just teasin', buddy. You kept my attention thought-out (an astonishing accomplishment!) the video. Sincerely, from the attention deficit disorder since birth to traumatic brain injury in a skateboard accident I've had my fair share of challenges and obstacles with focus. In effort to minimize if not eliminate possible misinterpretations (as speech and communicating are prime examples of the challenges and obstacles I mentioned) let me clarify I'm not whining...by any means. The few times I get a glimpse at effortlessly staying attentive (engaged) without the bells and whistles they're noticed, appreciated and declared. God bless you, my friend.😃
I fucking love you i had this problem for a year now and searched all over the internet this is the best video i have found by far.
Absolutly the best video on this
Now I know what is wrong with my ranger👍
Explained in detail great video sir.
Wonderfully informative, thank you
The part you're calling the diaphragm? Is a heater control valve that allows hot water into your heater core hoses or not. My 97 ranger had the same issue with the hard type hose breaking off too. That vacuum hose issue caused me to not have heat or cold AC. Bad design by Ford.
Thank you so much for such a great explanation... Did you notice an increased performance of the A/C, now that the door was closed and no air was entering from the outside?
Oh yes. When my a/c is on max a/c it gets really cold in the cab.
Mine had a temperature drop of about 10 degrees F. But I couldn’t find the vaccum leak and I had to do something quick to reduce the fuel consumption and increase the a/c performance. I will follow your instructions to make my own smoke machine. Thank you for your time and effort.
Make sure you check the entire system for vacuum. On my truck the reservoir was under things on the front passenger bumper. Took a little digging to get to it and check. Once you remove the plastic fender shield things are so much easier to see and access.
TOM2RN Ok, I will pull a vaccum in the reservoir. Thanks!
Very helpful video, Thank you!
Exactly where mine was thank u great video
Thank you very much sir!
Wonderful. Thank you good sir.
Sir, I have a question here on a 1998 Ranger, 2.5, no a/c. The white tube coming off the vacuum tank ends at the washer and coolant tanks. Capped off from the previous owner because he eliminated the heater valve. Where would the tube continue to the firewall and connect to ‘what’ ? The tube coming out of the firewall to the ‘heater valve’ is still there doing nothing. Please help- Ken.
really helpful video thanks. exac same problem with me.
very good video I have the exact ranger as yours except mine is 4×4 I have a high idle when it starts up air conditioning don't work and air don't come out of the front vents it only comes out of the defrost vent and I noticed the door on the right side by the glove box don't open like what you was showing do you think I might have the same problem you had
Thank you ,you just saved me a ton of $$$$👍👍🙋♂️
Your presentation was very thorough and well spoken! I will be trying to hook my loose vacuum lines like yours (almost identical situation). Although, I'm working with an Eddie Bauer 2001 Explorer 5.0L with automatic EATC. Someone, however told that mine does't require a Heater Control Valve (you called it a "4-port Water Outlet Valve) since my EATC is Automatic, meaning that the temperatures, fan speeds, blend doors are automatically controlled by sensors etc. unless you override them using digital push buttons vs a Manual one (which has knobs to turn to adjust the temperature, fan speed etc.),
Can you please tell me which one you have?
Wish me luck! And thanks for your GREAT VIDEO!
Mine is manual control-dials. Everything is operated by vacuum. It's a bit easier to fix since the sensors would have to be traced and tested if something goes wrong. Gotta have the specs about how much voltage a sensor would receive or put out also I'm sure.
Yes... A lot more to check I guess. Ugh. I just purchased a hand held vacuum tester/bleeder like urs! Where did you (should I) hook up my hand held Vacuum tester to test the Door Vacuum Motor (the actuator thing with the arm)/vacuum lines? If you don't answer that's ok. I paid JUST ANSWER to collaborate with a pro mechanic. More $$$ spent! Ugh. btw - the original problem was having to replace the heater core. $$$
Right about 11:40 in the video I point out the connector is at the bottom of the vacuum actuator. It's on the bottom and out of sight. There is a white vacuum line running to it I believe. Pop if off and connect the tester there.
Thank you! Very informative video.
Gosh you just made my day.I know now it’s that line and how to get to it👍
I've got the same exact issue with ac on my 99 4.0L 4x4. Did you have any issues with gas mileage being affected?
Yes, it decreased my mileage a little bit. Leaks cause improper fuel mixture.
Did you get lean codes? P0171 and p0174
thack you for your time and help
Great video. I have the same problem exactly, plus my four wheel drive won't engage. Do you think that would also cause four wheel drive problem? I'm pretty sure that is vacuum operated also. Thanks.
It very well could. Stuff gets old and cracks.
The Water control valve vacuum line is notorious for cracking due to the exhaust manifold. i Just pulled all of the hard vacuum lines and spayed them with flex-seal to seal up any crack or pin holes.
Hello, I have the same problem with my 1998 Ford Ranger. I found a broken grey vacuum hose on the where yours is.
Near the firewall, but cannot find where the plug is. I am hoping that it is under the splash guard to make the connection.
Does that sound about right??
Thanks for your assistance!
Frank N.
There is a plug on the firewall on the same side. That runs to the inside stuff. I believe it is a triple connection.
Hi Tom! I have a 2001 Ford Ranger 4.0. 4x4 with a little over 200,000 miles. Are the vacuum lines in the same place on my 2001 as your 1999?
Most likely. Doesn’t appear to be many design changes between those years.
Your welcome. Glad it helped.
excellent video
Nice this helped mine is the broke is the one that goes from the coil pack area to under the wiper fluid so right on top in plain sight ! what size tubing was that
1/8’” inside diameter. I took a piece to my local auto parts store and test fit.
@@TOM2RN nice thank you !
Thank you for the time awesome video
Thank You Kindly Sir!!
Tom,
I am sorry to bother you again, most of my gray vacuum hose is toast. So can you tell me where in the firewall the gray tube connects. I do not see it in the glove b ox???
Thanks very much for your reply!!!
It should pass through. You must pull the inner plastic wheel well to see it. There is a line that comes from the reservoir at the front and about midway the is a connector and the line changes color. That line runs to the firewall and through.
@@TOM2RN Thanks again!!
you ever just stare at a 99 ford ranger while a guy tells you a story about his air conditioner
hey hey, thank you - i think you got me on the right trail to find the vacuum boogie man. Peace.
so in theory a small leak would change engine performance when you turn the AC on?
Very helpful thank you
Great vid!
I used a little piece of shrink tube and shrink tubed the two pieces together.... it worked great and it was easy. p.s. I had a roomate smash the right front fender (passenger)... it hit the vacumn accumulator and smashed the crap out of it... Im waiting for the body shop to fix it....
Good idea. Add that to the list of improvise, adapt, overcome. With apologies to Clint Eastwood for that quote.
Good idea. Add that to the list of improvise, adapt, overcome. With apologies to Clint Eastwood for that quote.
Is it under the splash guard?? Don't see it in the engine bay.
Thanks
Frank N.
Take the entire splash guard off. It’s hidden.
This put me on somewhat the right track! I had a hose completely burned to bits. Put that thing on, and the entire truck came back to life. Ac and heat work, I must've gained 30hp, the thing doesnt sound like its dying, and one weird one.... It drives straight now. Someone tell me thats no hallucination. It was aligned perfect before and always pulled hard right. I called it "automatic lane change" theres gotta be a reason right?
That is weird. Gremlins?
I have had the same problemwithmyranger the previousowner did a engineswap and who knows wear the vacuumlines went or go .it still cycles from vent to defrost ????
That’s tough. I’m not sure if a Hayne’s manual has vacuum line diagrams.
@@TOM2RN well I used your video to see wear yours go and I'll make the changes this weekend
Thanks!
hello. can you tell me if you are supposed to be able to use the hot/cold rotary knob when the AC is set to MAX (which i assume is re-circulation mode). mine is stuck on maximum cold in the MAX mode. i can use the hot/cold control knob is the AC is set to normal (non-recirc) mode. many thanks. i have a 1996 ford ranger 3L V6.
Yes, you should be able to feel warm air if the AC knob is on MAX and you adjust the temp knob. Yes, MAX is recirculation mode. I'm no mechanic, but it is rare that the switches go bad. I would suspect a leak somewhere in the interior where the harness runs between the switches and the black box. The best way to find any leaks is to use the vacuum gauge. You can see the interior lines around 12:38. It would be odd if the temp switch is bad since it does work in the normal mode. Logically, it should work in the MAX mode too unless there is a leak. It could be something tiny. I do have a few pages from the Mitchell DIY site I used to have a subscription to. I would have to scan and send to you in a private email.
lean bank1 on 98 3.8 mustang any common leaks or falty parts already replaced upstream co2s ck eng lite back on
FINALLY !! that was it.
Where does the line to the back of the manifold end up exactly??
Start around 7:15. It ends up at the reservoir in the wheel well.
Is this engine a 3.0 or 4.0? It looks similar to mine but I can't find where the main vacuum is located (where you start at 6:30)
It's the big 4.0.
help! I have the exact same issue plus the two vacuum hoses that go in the "round tank" have holes in them. do you know the OEM part number for all three hoses I need to replace them
Sorry, I do not. Try fordparts.com and search for the lines there. You have to know your VIN #, 2 or 4 wheel drive, etc. Can you not piece them together as in my video. The vacuum line trick I used is what the mechanics would do (independents). Works fine and saves a ton of $$.
TOM2RN I used electric tape. For some of them the tear was at the connector... The grey one just melted because of the exhaust heat right underneath it.. I tied the heater hoses off to the side to avoid the same issue happening again. I think I need a heat shield soon
i have a ranger 97. i am getting a misfire on cylinders 1 and 5 along with a purge flow sensor circuit high input. do these have any relation to eachother that can narrow down the issue? any input is def appreciated, thank you sir! :)
I wouldn't think so since the purge flow deals with the EVAP system. Your could most likely get a rough idle. Here's a url which might help. It seems that the misfiring can cause an emissions problem. Did you check the OBD II code(s)? www.tomorrowstechnician.com/most-common-causes-of-misfire-codes/
P0301, p0305, p1445.
I did a little research. Mind you, I'm not a mechanic, but look a lot of stuff up. Looked at the Haynes on my 99. You may have a bad ignition coil as well as the EVAP system. It just so happens cylinder 1 and 5 are paired. Do you have a Haynes and multimeter? I would get or borrow these. When you mentioned cylinder 5 I knew you have a 6 cylinder. I like the coil over style since it's easier to diagnose. If 5 is bad, just trade it with one that doesn't pop a code and see if it pops the code in the new location. Easy diagnosis. Can't do it in this case.
TOM2RN paired? Do they share a fuel injector? Sorry just wondering what pairs them...
The coil powers the spark plugs, not the injectors. The injectors are controlled by the electronic control unit. The coil produces the spark. That's why if you are on the wrong end of it and you crank the car it will light you up, so to speak. In this case, your firing order has the 1 and 5 cylinder paired. I would get a multimeter and test the coil first. Haynes is a good reference. If those resistances come out OK, then I would move on to the purge problem. I had to replace the charcoal canister on my 97 Camry a few years back. There were two solenoids I had to replace also since the technical service bulletin said they could become clogged with debris from the bad charcoal canister. Pricey stuff. I would do the multimeter check first to prevent buying and installing parts unnecessarily.
where does the first vacuum line at 7:00 go? I've just reinstalled my engine and seem to have lost it in the shuffle.
Are you referring to the yellow one that goes to the EVAP valve? I can try and grab a photo or two tomorrow if that helps.
how do you diagnose and repair a vacuum hose ,?
I have a Mitey VAC. Disconnected both ends and plugged one with a cap or plug. Connected to the other end and pumped. If it doesn’t hold vacuum, it’s a problem.
Holy fucking hell. No wonder. I have been staring at that broken line for the longest time. Never thought a single thing of it. My god. So is this why when I push the brake down you hear air hissing?
Is that a foley tube/connector used as a smoke detector?
Sorry, I don't always receive email notifications when people leave comments. Yes, it is a 5 in 1 connector. I work in a hospital and I have all kinds of connectors to choose from.
Yes.
Their is a grey vacuum line that is disconnected causing the ac to blow hot. Any help
1975 PONTIAC CATALINA 400-THM400. It probably controls the blend door. Hook her back up and see if it makes a difference.
TOM2RN Its under the hood I've got no clue where it goes
Look on the AutoZone site for diagrams on your car. Depends on which engine. There were at least two diagrams. Trace anything from the firewall.
Reconnect using the same black vacuum line like I did.
Anyone have a part number for the vacuum diaphragm ? I don’t have one
It's called a heater control valve. They're around $15 at any parts store. It allows hot water through your heater core hoses or closes it off during AC. If you're referring to the part that Tom keeps calling a diaphragm and the part that the hard grey hose broke off of.
@@karitunes1 Not the heater control valve under the hood, I’m talking about the part that controls the little door under the dash that allows you to recirculate the air in the cabin. Not the blend door or the blend door actuator. But the door that sits right in front of the blower motor
Where’s the vacuum pump?
It’s a solenoid. Follow the lines up to it.
Same problem here
Theft recovery box were it's at
Man what about the people that don't know all the stuff you are talking let's see see
Ford 1999 3,0
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I need to know the