would you paint a car with wood paint? no because it won't last. car paint is make for metal, metal doesn't breath wood does. I would think over time the paint will crack due to the wood movement. your thoughts ?
That is not necessarily correct. Lacquer was used on cars for years, and though it was a slightly modified formula it was basically the same thing as wood lacquer. Same thing with modern car paint it’s a 2k which has been more or less copied into use with furniture
Bingo what’s up! Solvent nason fulthane 2k urethane. It was a fun experience and I like that I can buff it after 24 hours but it’s hard the dust is still huge problem for me. Ideally id like to not have to cut and buff but I had to on this one, I enclosed my booth didn’t know if you noticed that in the video
Hey! I’ve always wondered how car paint would perform on cabinets and furniture. Everyone seems to bash the idea but personally with these new 2k products targeted for wood it doesn’t seem like a bad idea to try the car paint especially if it’s cheaper! It seems like the solvent based 2k polys are a lot easier to work with than the water based bc the water is dependent on the climate. The hardest part with solvent like you said is the dust since it dries so fast unless you got a dedicated spray booth sucking all the air out that dry dust will land back in the finish and that makes for a fun day to cut and buff it out. Great video as always and awesome finish. I tried that with lacquer and it didn’t come out as great but then again I started with 600grit and then jumped to 1000 then cut/buff still didn’t remove the micro scratches. Gotta start with at least 2000 and can’t using anything that randomly orbits it just needs to spin.
Yeah man DA sander no orbit all the way the scratches will look like French polish. What lacquer? If you’re taking about the lacquer I’ve used in my videos I never polished after the fact because of that. My final coat was always just good and had to make it perfect. Buffing car paint is a heck of a lot easier than lacquer.that’s not a problem unique to you it’s just that most RUclipsrs including me you can’t see that close up but if you did I’m sure it would look just like yours. I’ll tell you though lol But when it comes to satin I really don’t care you know. Getting that 90+ sheen gloss is the only reason I try a lot of different products. Using auto paint is not necessarily new it’s just that I do a ton of research lol and i try to find out what works on a forum and bring it to RUclips. Just trying to do something different. It’s not really gonna be cheaper unless you’re comparing it to something like gallery. No reason it should be that expensive to buy a product like centurion (which is actually economical) but some of the Italian 2ks are insane and I won’t even consider buying something that unrealistic to me.
@bingobunga8995 I never want anyone to be misled by my videos though. There’s some polishing scratches and maybe a few pigtails in there but you’ll never see them. And I’ve kind of set a rule for myself which is that if it looks good in natural light it’s okay. Sometimes good enough for my customers is good enough for me.
@@milosrestoration1337 I’ve used high gloss Sherwood nitro lacquer and wasn’t impressed at all. No matter how much I thinned it I would spray it and goes on like glass then wrinkles up into orange peel as it dries and cures. Very disappointed with the product but it definitely sanded and buffed well I just didn’t have the right equipment to do it properly. The white vinyl sealer I’ve used in the past and the CAB acrylic lacquer from Sherwood were much better products. Nitro lacquer is very outdated idk why my local Sherwin Williams stores still carry it and not the better stuff. I’m moving over to 2k polys now even if isocyanates are the new hazard to contend with. I’ve been experimenting with gallery series as well adding a crosslinker which is safer than isocyanate catalysts it uses benign aziridine as the hardener. I found out Gallery was a spin-off of Sayerlack’s Hydroplus and is actually compatible with the crosslinker from Caldwell Painting. It actually outperformed 2k Renner against acetone in his test which was very impressive. The adhesion test was less desirable but I’d wager the primer he used was the limiting factor.
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks! Looks great.
Thank you!
Really gorgeous work!
Thank you very much!
would you paint a car with wood paint? no because it won't last. car paint is make for metal, metal doesn't breath wood does. I would think over time the paint will crack due to the wood movement. your thoughts ?
That is not necessarily correct.
Lacquer was used on cars for years, and though it was a slightly modified formula it was basically the same thing as wood lacquer. Same thing with modern car paint it’s a 2k which has been more or less copied into use with furniture
Was it solvent or water based automotive paint?
Bingo what’s up!
Solvent nason fulthane 2k urethane.
It was a fun experience and I like that I can buff it after 24 hours but it’s hard the dust is still huge problem for me. Ideally id like to not have to cut and buff but I had to on this one, I enclosed my booth didn’t know if you noticed that in the video
Hey! I’ve always wondered how car paint would perform on cabinets and furniture. Everyone seems to bash the idea but personally with these new 2k products targeted for wood it doesn’t seem like a bad idea to try the car paint especially if it’s cheaper! It seems like the solvent based 2k polys are a lot easier to work with than the water based bc the water is dependent on the climate. The hardest part with solvent like you said is the dust since it dries so fast unless you got a dedicated spray booth sucking all the air out that dry dust will land back in the finish and that makes for a fun day to cut and buff it out. Great video as always and awesome finish. I tried that with lacquer and it didn’t come out as great but then again I started with 600grit and then jumped to 1000 then cut/buff still didn’t remove the micro scratches. Gotta start with at least 2000 and can’t using anything that randomly orbits it just needs to spin.
Yeah man DA sander no orbit all the way the scratches will look like French polish.
What lacquer? If you’re taking about the lacquer I’ve used in my videos I never polished after the fact because of that. My final coat was always just good and had to make it perfect. Buffing car paint is a heck of a lot easier than lacquer.that’s not a problem unique to you it’s just that most RUclipsrs including me you can’t see that close up but if you did I’m sure it would look just like yours. I’ll tell you though lol
But when it comes to satin I really don’t care you know. Getting that 90+ sheen gloss is the only reason I try a lot of different products. Using auto paint is not necessarily new it’s just that I do a ton of research lol and i try to find out what works on a forum and bring it to RUclips. Just trying to do something different. It’s not really gonna be cheaper unless you’re comparing it to something like gallery. No reason it should be that expensive to buy a product like centurion (which is actually economical) but some of the Italian 2ks are insane and I won’t even consider buying something that unrealistic to me.
@bingobunga8995 I never want anyone to be misled by my videos though. There’s some polishing scratches and maybe a few pigtails in there but you’ll never see them. And I’ve kind of set a rule for myself which is that if it looks good in natural light it’s okay. Sometimes good enough for my customers is good enough for me.
@@milosrestoration1337 I’ve used high gloss Sherwood nitro lacquer and wasn’t impressed at all. No matter how much I thinned it I would spray it and goes on like glass then wrinkles up into orange peel as it dries and cures. Very disappointed with the product but it definitely sanded and buffed well I just didn’t have the right equipment to do it properly. The white vinyl sealer I’ve used in the past and the CAB acrylic lacquer from Sherwood were much better products. Nitro lacquer is very outdated idk why my local Sherwin Williams stores still carry it and not the better stuff. I’m moving over to 2k polys now even if isocyanates are the new hazard to contend with. I’ve been experimenting with gallery series as well adding a crosslinker which is safer than isocyanate catalysts it uses benign aziridine as the hardener. I found out Gallery was a spin-off of Sayerlack’s Hydroplus and is actually compatible with the crosslinker from Caldwell Painting. It actually outperformed 2k Renner against acetone in his test which was very impressive. The adhesion test was less desirable but I’d wager the primer he used was the limiting factor.
Saveyour self some time cleaning it get thinner and a rag and whipe the oils off if your gonna sand it anyway it really don't matter.