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It’s a mess but it does work!

A lighted mirror that would typically be mounted on a wall would probably work. If you search for lighted vanity mirror I would pick one that looks like it’s made to sit on the vanity, and attach some boards that span at least half the height of the mirror to the base of the vanity and let the mirror rest against the boards. Or you could always just mount it to the wall above the vanity.

Yes, something botanical would have been nice.

Never heard of that brand, but I’ll definitely look into it. I haven’t used mine much anymore.

Yeah. I agree it’s got its problems. I’m really just comparing to it cabinet paints.. I think it’s about perspective. Gallery gets none of the air bubble issues that I have with other PUs and is way more user friendly in my experience. It’s definitely more of a paint but just my experience.

To strip the finish probably 180 or 120

Thank you!

I just thinned it by eye. 10-20 with fine paints of Europe mineral spirits.

Centurions high build is a water based product. It can be topcoated with a lacquer after waiting at least 24 hours. If you have access to centurion water based gloss coatings I’m sure you can try that, but I just used whatever brand precat clear gloss (85+ sheen) that is available to me. Usually it’s Gemini or axalta or sometimes Mohawk. If you didn’t have issues spraying centurion which is a difficult product to spray then you should not have issues spraying a water based gloss if you want to go that route. Water based coatings will not be as glossy as a lacquer or oil based clear in my experience. You can still topcoat with a gloss lacquer if you want to.

What spray equipment do you have

@@milosrestoration1337 Do you have an email? We have a furniture restoration business and would love to chat!

Thank you! Cheers!

Thank you!

Thank you so much!!! I hope you enjoyed the video

Thank you!

Thank you!

Thank you my friend! Best of luck to you

Glad I could help

I’m not honestly a big fan of polish. The reason being, any future refinishing that has to be done will only be made harder because waxes in polish interfere with the coatings I use. There’s a couple products out there, the company Milsek manufactures a wax free polish. I’d think anything that is wax free and silicone free is okay! That’s really the only important thing to me. Others might have different opinions. Some people do like wax because it helps to act as a polishing compound, but to me I just avoid it in case I want to refinish a piece later.

I promise they are coming! I had a situation with my day job busier than normal, hopefully soon!

Thank you sir!

Nope never came back from warranty been months

For which part? For primer 180-220 Between topcoats 300-600

Not sure which ones you’re looking at? They can be purchased for as little as 75$. Some are very expensive.

That is not necessarily correct. Lacquer was used on cars for years, and though it was a slightly modified formula it was basically the same thing as wood lacquer. Same thing with modern car paint it’s a 2k which has been more or less copied into use with furniture

Bingo what’s up! Solvent nason fulthane 2k urethane. It was a fun experience and I like that I can buff it after 24 hours but it’s hard the dust is still huge problem for me. Ideally id like to not have to cut and buff but I had to on this one, I enclosed my booth didn’t know if you noticed that in the video

Hey! I’ve always wondered how car paint would perform on cabinets and furniture. Everyone seems to bash the idea but personally with these new 2k products targeted for wood it doesn’t seem like a bad idea to try the car paint especially if it’s cheaper! It seems like the solvent based 2k polys are a lot easier to work with than the water based bc the water is dependent on the climate. The hardest part with solvent like you said is the dust since it dries so fast unless you got a dedicated spray booth sucking all the air out that dry dust will land back in the finish and that makes for a fun day to cut and buff it out. Great video as always and awesome finish. I tried that with lacquer and it didn’t come out as great but then again I started with 600grit and then jumped to 1000 then cut/buff still didn’t remove the micro scratches. Gotta start with at least 2000 and can’t using anything that randomly orbits it just needs to spin.

Yeah man DA sander no orbit all the way the scratches will look like French polish. What lacquer? If you’re taking about the lacquer I’ve used in my videos I never polished after the fact because of that. My final coat was always just good and had to make it perfect. Buffing car paint is a heck of a lot easier than lacquer.that’s not a problem unique to you it’s just that most RUclipsrs including me you can’t see that close up but if you did I’m sure it would look just like yours. I’ll tell you though lol But when it comes to satin I really don’t care you know. Getting that 90+ sheen gloss is the only reason I try a lot of different products. Using auto paint is not necessarily new it’s just that I do a ton of research lol and i try to find out what works on a forum and bring it to RUclips. Just trying to do something different. It’s not really gonna be cheaper unless you’re comparing it to something like gallery. No reason it should be that expensive to buy a product like centurion (which is actually economical) but some of the Italian 2ks are insane and I won’t even consider buying something that unrealistic to me.

@bingobunga8995 I never want anyone to be misled by my videos though. There’s some polishing scratches and maybe a few pigtails in there but you’ll never see them. And I’ve kind of set a rule for myself which is that if it looks good in natural light it’s okay. Sometimes good enough for my customers is good enough for me.

@@milosrestoration1337 I’ve used high gloss Sherwood nitro lacquer and wasn’t impressed at all. No matter how much I thinned it I would spray it and goes on like glass then wrinkles up into orange peel as it dries and cures. Very disappointed with the product but it definitely sanded and buffed well I just didn’t have the right equipment to do it properly. The white vinyl sealer I’ve used in the past and the CAB acrylic lacquer from Sherwood were much better products. Nitro lacquer is very outdated idk why my local Sherwin Williams stores still carry it and not the better stuff. I’m moving over to 2k polys now even if isocyanates are the new hazard to contend with. I’ve been experimenting with gallery series as well adding a crosslinker which is safer than isocyanate catalysts it uses benign aziridine as the hardener. I found out Gallery was a spin-off of Sayerlack’s Hydroplus and is actually compatible with the crosslinker from Caldwell Painting. It actually outperformed 2k Renner against acetone in his test which was very impressive. The adhesion test was less desirable but I’d wager the primer he used was the limiting factor.

Thank you very much!

30-40%

Thank you very much!

Thank you!

I have a dog named Milo! Thank you, I don’t tint the lacquer myself I use pre tinted lacquer and sealer.

@@milosrestoration1337 I have a dog named mylo too!!

Thank you very much!

Thank you!

I haven’t seen it with the hardware yet! I will change the thumbnail when I do.

Yeah I don’t think I would go any smaller. Also a 308 allows sometimes more than one pass if needed.

Agreed! It was more of a just for fun and RUclips thing. I tried a two part glazing but it was too hard to sand, maybe I’ll give the UPOL a shot

Thank you! Probably so. Once I am more caught up at my day job I hope to!

It does! It’s more of an accent color.

Thank you! Im kind of trying to do some instructional videos, and a fine paints of Europe video seemed like a popular product.