Another key and very underrated accessory is a volt meter on the bike. I have one installed from my main fuse so I know the health of the battery and whats happening to the charging while I am riding. Incase of a failure in the charging system I ll know long before my battery goes flat.
The amount of stuff I bought I could have upgraded to a better bike, then again I'd buy the stuff anyways. Glad I'm not the only one... Thought I had a problem 😅
The spring hook and wheel chuck are actually brilliant. I guess you can easily weld a step-nut assembly on the outer arm of the tire cradle so you can dislodge the bike more easily. That looks like a device I'd buy or even have made to order if they don't ship where I'm at in the world.
The moment i started seeing your vids i now started looking at your account to watch more. Amazing videos hope you will notice this comment :) commenting from the Philippines💕
Get some Seal Doctors. They are great for cleaning fork seals, and prevent them from seeping or straight out blowing (like mine did). You'd be surprised at how much dirt those things can hold, specially if you drive in rainy weathers, or offroad.
Chain Slack checker - I use a seamstress/sewing metal Hemming Tool - $2 (And works for other measurements). On the Paddock Stand - put a long bar in the Triangle Opening and pushing down on it which will force the tilt assembly the direction you want it to go. If you knew a welder you could even put a "long" foot pedal on it. I use a chain alignment tool ($10) that uses a short rod to sight along to align the chain. I also put in a 2 foot long rod to go all the way forward to get a better sight picture/alignment. And YUP! you have to remove the chain guard to use any of them - but worth the hassle.
Instead of a spring hook, I just use zip ties to create a loop around the hook, then pull on it with my finger to move the hook on/off the attachment point. With zip ties being so cheap, applying one then cutting it off after use is no big deal. Not like a spring hook is all that expensive either, but I try to keep my garage free of tool clutter, similar to say, buying a pasta maker or waffle iron. They’re fun kitchen items, but most people don’t use them often enough to justify the space they are up in the cupboard.
The Grease Ninja is a great tool for preventing over spray from aerosol chain wax/ lube - I've had great success with it and would highly recommend 10/10.
The better approach with the grit guard is the two bucket system. One bucket for your soapy water and they other bucket is the one you use to rinse off your towel/scrubber/cloth before you dip it into the soapy water. Greatly reduces any contaminates from getting back on your bike.
I have a wheel chock that wasn't budget friendly. It's heavier and doesn't need to be propped up against anything to work. Worth every penny when it comes to basic maintenance and I have zero fear of the bike tipping when I'm putting it on a rear stand
The grit guard is supposed to be used with a two bucket method of washing. Put the guard in the bottom of both buckets, use one for clean wash water, rinse it out with the second bucket before dipping into the 1st bucket for more soapy water
You don't need to remove the chain guard if you gauge the alignment by measuring the distance from the front of chain adjuster block to the center of the inner part of the swing arm. This can be down with calipers or with a small ruler.
@@alphaforce6998 But using a tool like that or the Promotion tool, requires you to take off the guard. Manually measuring you don't have too as you have explained. Personally if accessible I measure to the swing arm pivot points.
@@HalfdeadRider agreed 👍 The lines on the swing arm and axle blocks are absolutely fine ffs. If someone wants to be super pedantic the can measure from the block to the front or rear of that part of the swingarm with a ruler or caliper. Gadgets to solve problems that don't exist 🤷♂️
@@UnCivilEngineerIRL I also use the rear brake to be sure it is as straight as possible. With the axle lose apply the rear brake, then turn the wheel a little apply and repeat, then tighten each side the same amount each time. I do then turn the rear wheel while looking down the chain to see if I notice and odd movements once everything is tight as one last visual check.
The laser alignment tool is used when the chain guard cover is off. I align my chain when I clean it, so the guard is already off, then I pop that tool on after a clean and measure. Then I put the guard back on and all done.
There is a very easy way to adjust the rear wheel alignment, and this is how I do it and get superb alignment each time. All you need is a good set of calipers. 1) Set the drive side of your wheel correctly, such that you have the proper chain free play. 2) Use the calipers to measure the distance between the inner part of the swing arm and the adjustment block. 3) Adjust the other side of the axle and measure it the same way so that you end up with the same reading. On some bikes with cheap swing arms, they don't have a block or are boxed in. In this case, there will usually be a slot where the chain adjustment markings are visible so use that as the measuring point (measure from the center of the frontmost part of the slot, to the edge of the chain adjuster marking indicator). Basically, you can measure any two points as long as the reference points are identical on both sides.
Oh boy, the spring hook can be a game changer. I have a bike with aftermarket exhaust. i have to change oil every 10-15h or after every race and to get to drain bolts and filter I have to take off part of exhaust. One of the springs is behind frame and in a really inconvenient spot, with different kinds of pliers it took me at least 10 mins to get the spring on, with spring hook it's like 20 seconds, and that's the most cumbersome spring, there are 4 more. Buy it (locally)!
I live in an NYC apartment and since I don't have access to a hose/running water outside, I normally wash my bike with a "wash wax". Works great for all surfaces, and even if my bike is filthy, I can clean my whole bike with 5 microfiber cloths and a wooden pick for the tight areas. May wanna brush off heavy dirt areas with a soft brush first though, will clog up your towels immediately I love the grit guard for washing my car at my parent's house though :) (especially since I do their cars at the same time! DX)
I have a Baxley sport chock, and love it. Doesn't exhibit any of the problems you're having, but is likely heavier (and pricier, I'm guessing). Even without maintenance tasks to perform, parking the bike on it as I roll into the garage means less space consumed vs. kickstand.
Hey friend, easiest way to get the bike off a chock that isn't bolted down is actually from the front. Stand in front of the bike facing it. Stand on the chock, then grab the handlebars and push the bike away from you. Make sure the side stand is down, so when it gets off the chock, you just gently lay it down on its stand. EZPZ.
6:20 you can simply use two buckets at the same time. one with water and the other with water and cleaner. you use the bucket with the water to rinse the dirt in the sponge, so away from the bike, and after rinsing you use the bucket with the cleaner to freshen up the sponge and continue.
Oooh chain alignment... not my favorite job when ocd kicks in... however copy tool of Motion pro from Sealey makes life easier and cost 3 times cheaper... by the way got my LCD flip screen from ColorClusters today for my MT07!
@Chaos Causes A tip for the stand. place a block the same higth as the rear bar under the seesaw. this way when the bike goes forward it goes up a small step but is then level to roll on and over the holder. I have exactly the same one.
I pin my chuck in place. Drilled holes in my concrete garage floor the same size as the ones in the chuck frame. A pair of boots dropped thru mounting holes into floor holes n chuck won't scoot away anymore. Because they slide in n out easy to remove chuck when it's not needed.
A digital vernier calliper do all the chain adjustments ... Two bucket wash that you recommended is enough no need of the filter, front lock is completely useless, just sat on the floor hold one side of the handle bar can show oil level but surface should be flat.
The chemical guys cyclone dirt trap does amazingly well. The design is perfect for trapping dirt. I use it and a two bucket washing method and it does pretty good.
From my limited view through this video, the Laser Monkey tool looks as if it would possibly work well if the tool was rotated 180 degrees (on vertical axis), then the laser flipped down on its hinge to point in the other direction.
I've used a "Bump stop" here in the UK for over 15 years now and simply don't have the issues you are encountering with it moving around or difficulty getting the bike out of it again. However I have clearly been using another make or model because mine has a tubular steel design. I also gave up using a paddock stand in favour of an Abba Superbike stand and I've completely forgot how to shimmy to the rear now.
you can buy a grit cover, or you can buy a floor cleaning mop+bucket set. use the bucket to rinse with centrifuge. cheap option and better usage. same goes for spring hook, weld 2 pieces of metal and done. chain alignment thing, piece of cake. buy some cheap toy laser, and its not hard to fabricate a clamp with pieces of aluminium or a old gopro plastic clip mount and your chain thing is done.
The nice thing about my bike is that i grab it by the sissybar to pick it up straight to put the paddock stand. I dont start from the front and having to shimmy to the rear.
You can get a masonry bit and drill 4 holes in the concrete bigger then long bolts. Then seal the bolts flush in the concrete. Now you can bolt the stand down when you need it and remove it when you don’t.
I depend on my lazer eyeballs when adjusting a chain but if you are not fortunate enough to be a cyborg then you CAN use the lazer monkey clamp , just put it on the underside of your sprocket ,shine the lazer on the bottom of the chain, and do the adjustement whilst you are on your back ,on the ground ,trying to look up at the mark ,and also trying to remember that now left is right and right is nor right . Alternatively , remove the chain guard , its just 2 easy to get to bolts on most bikes .
Given how many times I've dropped my bike when trying to put it on a paddock stand (it's ok, my car sacrificed its panels to break the falls 🤦♂️🤦♂️) the wheel chock looks like a decent investment.
Bike chains should be measured for slack while sitting on the bike. Very awkward to do, but that`s how i was taught. If you think about it, it makes sense. The slack adjusted while not on the bike, will change as soon as you hop on the bike. The chain will be a fair bit tighter (not enough slack) which leads to more stress and wear and tear on the sprockets, chain and associated shaft bearing.
Stand on the opposite side of your bike from the kick stand (right/brake side) and hold the bike in between you and the kick stand and then reach around to put the bike on the paddock stand. I hold my shin against the swingarm.
One product that's been really useful for me is the cable lube v3 by motion pro. It's amazing for lubing your cables. I used to have an issue, where my clutch lever would get sticky after a while. Now I just use the v3 cable lube and it's been great.
Screw paddock stands, get an Abba 'superbike' stand (with the front lift arm if you want the front wheel in the air too), that's your perfect solution...
What if you clamp the laser on the bottom of the sprocket so it puts the beam on the bottom of the chain. You will have to look under the chain but the chain guard won’t be in the wat.
It never crossed my mind that you can not get amazon in South Africa. If you want cheap bike stuff try AliExpress a lot is rubbish but some is good, I got my gsr engraved brake and clutch leavers for about £15 good quality too on eBay they are a lot more.
Hey dude I also went mad at first with Amazon but have a new found love for eBay. Just stick to companies and check them out first. You know us SA guys trust nobody 🤪 get damaged box stuff which is new inside and genuine parts at reduced prices. I got BMW parts at about 40% less . Where are you in UK ?
ive been keeping my eye on those two +1 chock and chain thing also another one from motion pro is the clutch wire luber. also a motorcycle lift/table is another one to consider just expensive.
There is another laser just like that one you simply hold against the side of your sprocket, idk its name tho. I feel like i would trust that one more, since you can simply put it on a table and check if the laser is really centered. How do you know that cheap plastic thing is not off by 2° or so?
Your wheel chock is bad, probably (no offence) because you bought a cheap one idk. The original “BumpStop” is excellent, as is the “ConStands” version which I also use. It’s far easier and smoother, moving the bike on and off the chock. And the Chain Alignment Monkey is great to, it is a small price to pay to remove a bolt or three to get the chain guard off! 👍🏻
Another key and very underrated accessory is a volt meter on the bike. I have one installed from my main fuse so I know the health of the battery and whats happening to the charging while I am riding. Incase of a failure in the charging system I ll know long before my battery goes flat.
The obsessive buying of unnecessary motorcycle products starts now.
SAME! 😀😓😭
True enough!
I bought friggin wheel guards. Like who uses those. They flew off,😂 now I see why no one uses them. They don't work
The amount of stuff I bought I could have upgraded to a better bike, then again I'd buy the stuff anyways. Glad I'm not the only one... Thought I had a problem 😅
The effort that goes into your videos is fantastic. Its refreshing to watch something so well produced in this genre!
THE most underrated motorcycle RUclips channel. Amazing work! I loved what you did with the wash guard and putting the camera in the bucket.
The spring hook and wheel chuck are actually brilliant. I guess you can easily weld a step-nut assembly on the outer arm of the tire cradle so you can dislodge the bike more easily. That looks like a device I'd buy or even have made to order if they don't ship where I'm at in the world.
A piece of 1" X 4" for the front wheel to land on.
Why not use laser device on bottom of chain?
The moment i started seeing your vids i now started looking at your account to watch more. Amazing videos hope you will notice this comment :) commenting from the Philippines💕
Oi kapwa pinoy 👋
@@kofi4927 yow
Get some Seal Doctors.
They are great for cleaning fork seals, and prevent them from seeping or straight out blowing (like mine did).
You'd be surprised at how much dirt those things can hold, specially if you drive in rainy weathers, or offroad.
Chain Slack checker - I use a seamstress/sewing metal Hemming Tool - $2 (And works for other measurements).
On the Paddock Stand - put a long bar in the Triangle Opening and pushing down on it which will force the tilt assembly the direction you want it to go. If you knew a welder you could even put a "long" foot pedal on it.
I use a chain alignment tool ($10) that uses a short rod to sight along to align the chain. I also put in a 2 foot long rod to go all the way forward to get a better sight picture/alignment. And YUP! you have to remove the chain guard to use any of them - but worth the hassle.
This upload schedule makes my week🙌
Instead of a spring hook, I just use zip ties to create a loop around the hook, then pull on it with my finger to move the hook on/off the attachment point. With zip ties being so cheap, applying one then cutting it off after use is no big deal. Not like a spring hook is all that expensive either, but I try to keep my garage free of tool clutter, similar to say, buying a pasta maker or waffle iron. They’re fun kitchen items, but most people don’t use them often enough to justify the space they are up in the cupboard.
The Grease Ninja is a great tool for preventing over spray from aerosol chain wax/ lube - I've had great success with it and would highly recommend 10/10.
The better approach with the grit guard is the two bucket system. One bucket for your soapy water and they other bucket is the one you use to rinse off your towel/scrubber/cloth before you dip it into the soapy water. Greatly reduces any contaminates from getting back on your bike.
Or combine them: put the grit guard into the rinse bucket
I have a wheel chock that wasn't budget friendly. It's heavier and doesn't need to be propped up against anything to work. Worth every penny when it comes to basic maintenance and I have zero fear of the bike tipping when I'm putting it on a rear stand
A vernier caliper could be extremely useful for getting a much, MUCH more accurate measurement on your swing arm and chain adjuster.
Ya style is a joy to behold....Im so excited Iv just got my first bike & have a date every Friday with you...You just Rock
*Igloo in the middle of an ice floe during a blizzard*
Eskimo: He only just got Amazon - what backwater did he live in?!
The grit guard is supposed to be used with a two bucket method of washing. Put the guard in the bottom of both buckets, use one for clean wash water, rinse it out with the second bucket before dipping into the 1st bucket for more soapy water
Pretty much all chain alignment tool requires you to remove the chain guard.. So do that and retest :)
You don't need to remove the chain guard if you gauge the alignment by measuring the distance from the front of chain adjuster block to the center of the inner part of the swing arm. This can be down with calipers or with a small ruler.
@@alphaforce6998 But using a tool like that or the Promotion tool, requires you to take off the guard. Manually measuring you don't have too as you have explained.
Personally if accessible I measure to the swing arm pivot points.
You could just put it on the bottom of the sprocket instead of the top and adjust from the underside.
Enjoying your vids. Keep them coming boet.
Hmmmm. That chain looks like it needs a clean there! 🤣😂🤣😂
Diesel does a GREAT job BTW!
Your really shouldnt clean your chain with diesel or fuel since it will eat up your o rings. Instead just use some wd40 or other degreaser.
I fully understand desire to have wheel chock. Good bike lift and humongous workbench are in the same line for me ;)
Did you try the chain laser from underneath ? I feel like there is enough space there.
Well then you wouldn’t be able to see it but I did consider it 🤔
@@ChaosCauses Take the chain guard off! saying that I wouldn't have bought it in the first place, or any of the other items 🤣😎
@@HalfdeadRider agreed 👍
The lines on the swing arm and axle blocks are absolutely fine ffs.
If someone wants to be super pedantic the can measure from the block to the front or rear of that part of the swingarm with a ruler or caliper.
Gadgets to solve problems that don't exist 🤷♂️
@@UnCivilEngineerIRL I also use the rear brake to be sure it is as straight as possible. With the axle lose apply the rear brake, then turn the wheel a little apply and repeat, then tighten each side the same amount each time. I do then turn the rear wheel while looking down the chain to see if I notice and odd movements once everything is tight as one last visual check.
a mirror would help with that if you dont wanna remove the chain guard.. id still buy it just to convinced my paranoia that my chain is aligned
The laser alignment tool is used when the chain guard cover is off. I align my chain when I clean it, so the guard is already off, then I pop that tool on after a clean and measure. Then I put the guard back on and all done.
I used to be mind blown whenever you talked about waiting weeks or months for a part to arrive. Feels nice not having to wait very long huh?
There is a very easy way to adjust the rear wheel alignment, and this is how I do it and get superb alignment each time. All you need is a good set of calipers.
1) Set the drive side of your wheel correctly, such that you have the proper chain free play.
2) Use the calipers to measure the distance between the inner part of the swing arm and the adjustment block.
3) Adjust the other side of the axle and measure it the same way so that you end up with the same reading.
On some bikes with cheap swing arms, they don't have a block or are boxed in. In this case, there will usually be a slot where the chain adjustment markings are visible so use that as the measuring point (measure from the center of the frontmost part of the slot, to the edge of the chain adjuster marking indicator). Basically, you can measure any two points as long as the reference points are identical on both sides.
Oh boy, the spring hook can be a game changer. I have a bike with aftermarket exhaust. i have to change oil every 10-15h or after every race and to get to drain bolts and filter I have to take off part of exhaust. One of the springs is behind frame and in a really inconvenient spot, with different kinds of pliers it took me at least 10 mins to get the spring on, with spring hook it's like 20 seconds, and that's the most cumbersome spring, there are 4 more. Buy it (locally)!
my dude your videos are AMAZING! Glad i found your channel
I live in an NYC apartment and since I don't have access to a hose/running water outside, I normally wash my bike with a "wash wax". Works great for all surfaces, and even if my bike is filthy, I can clean my whole bike with 5 microfiber cloths and a wooden pick for the tight areas. May wanna brush off heavy dirt areas with a soft brush first though, will clog up your towels immediately
I love the grit guard for washing my car at my parent's house though :) (especially since I do their cars at the same time! DX)
I have a Baxley sport chock, and love it. Doesn't exhibit any of the problems you're having, but is likely heavier (and pricier, I'm guessing). Even without maintenance tasks to perform, parking the bike on it as I roll into the garage means less space consumed vs. kickstand.
One of my favorite motorcycle channels next to FortNine
Hey friend, easiest way to get the bike off a chock that isn't bolted down is actually from the front. Stand in front of the bike facing it. Stand on the chock, then grab the handlebars and push the bike away from you. Make sure the side stand is down, so when it gets off the chock, you just gently lay it down on its stand. EZPZ.
6:20 you can simply use two buckets at the same time. one with water and the other with water and cleaner. you use the bucket with the water to rinse the dirt in the sponge, so away from the bike, and after rinsing you use the bucket with the cleaner to freshen up the sponge and continue.
lightech chain adjusters .. then u dont have to worry about ur wheel are not in line .. they are great !
Oooh chain alignment... not my favorite job when ocd kicks in... however copy tool of Motion pro from Sealey makes life easier and cost 3 times cheaper... by the way got my LCD flip screen from ColorClusters today for my MT07!
Your production and content quality is awesome man hope to get to your level and hope you hit 100k soon 🤙🏾
@Chaos Causes A tip for the stand. place a block the same higth as the rear bar under the seesaw. this way when the bike goes forward it goes up a small step but is then level to roll on and over the holder. I have exactly the same one.
For springs ,needle nose vice grips are the actual goat, it’ll never slip, you have way better leverage and grip too
I pin my chuck in place. Drilled holes in my concrete garage floor the same size as the ones in the chuck frame. A pair of boots dropped thru mounting holes into floor holes n chuck won't scoot away anymore. Because they slide in n out easy to remove chuck when it's not needed.
Use the lazer chain alignment tool on the bottom of the chain if you have a guard like that, bit awkward but works
A digital vernier calliper do all the chain adjustments ... Two bucket wash that you recommended is enough no need of the filter, front lock is completely useless, just sat on the floor hold one side of the handle bar can show oil level but surface should be flat.
The chemical guys cyclone dirt trap does amazingly well. The design is perfect for trapping dirt. I use it and a two bucket washing method and it does pretty good.
From my limited view through this video, the Laser Monkey tool looks as if it would possibly work well if the tool was rotated 180 degrees (on vertical axis), then the laser flipped down on its hinge to point in the other direction.
I bought the quicklock handle bar mount from one of your reviews. Saw you still have it on yours. I’ll be looking into the chain slack tool next
I've used a "Bump stop" here in the UK for over 15 years now and simply don't have the issues you are encountering with it moving around or difficulty getting the bike out of it again. However I have clearly been using another make or model because mine has a tubular steel design. I also gave up using a paddock stand in favour of an Abba Superbike stand and I've completely forgot how to shimmy to the rear now.
you can buy a grit cover, or you can buy a floor cleaning mop+bucket set. use the bucket to rinse with centrifuge. cheap option and better usage. same goes for spring hook, weld 2 pieces of metal and done. chain alignment thing, piece of cake. buy some cheap toy laser, and its not hard to fabricate a clamp with pieces of aluminium or a old gopro plastic clip mount and your chain thing is done.
Great Video As Always Loved It Again!💜
The nice thing about my bike is that i grab it by the sissybar to pick it up straight to put the paddock stand. I dont start from the front and having to shimmy to the rear.
You can get a masonry bit and drill 4 holes in the concrete bigger then long bolts. Then seal the bolts flush in the concrete. Now you can bolt the stand down when you need it and remove it when you don’t.
If don't have one yet, get a brake piston puller. When cleaning your brakes, you can rotate the piston to reveal the dirty other side of it.
I depend on my lazer eyeballs when adjusting a chain but if you are not fortunate enough to be a cyborg then you CAN use the lazer monkey clamp , just put it on the underside of your sprocket ,shine the lazer on the bottom of the chain, and do the adjustement whilst you are on your back ,on the ground ,trying to look up at the mark ,and also trying to remember that now left is right and right is nor right . Alternatively , remove the chain guard , its just 2 easy to get to bolts on most bikes .
Given how many times I've dropped my bike when trying to put it on a paddock stand (it's ok, my car sacrificed its panels to break the falls 🤦♂️🤦♂️) the wheel chock looks like a decent investment.
Bike chains should be measured for slack while sitting on the bike. Very awkward to do, but that`s how i was taught. If you think about it, it makes sense. The slack adjusted while not on the bike, will change as soon as you hop on the bike. The chain will be a fair bit tighter (not enough slack) which leads to more stress and wear and tear on the sprockets, chain and associated shaft bearing.
Stand on the opposite side of your bike from the kick stand (right/brake side) and hold the bike in between you and the kick stand and then reach around to put the bike on the paddock stand. I hold my shin against the swingarm.
Glad you moved to the UK, boet. I was back in SA last year and it broke my heart how far the place fallen apart.
I'm moving to the UK next week too! Can't wait to find all those Amazon tools
One product that's been really useful for me is the cable lube v3 by motion pro. It's amazing for lubing your cables. I used to have an issue, where my clutch lever would get sticky after a while. Now I just use the v3 cable lube and it's been great.
Nice Video man for your next video can you do 5 or 10 Motorcycle Accessories you Must have.
Put your foot on the bottom side edge of the chock and press down when pulling the bike out to avoid unstable pulling. Bikes are heavy use leverage!
Screw paddock stands, get an Abba 'superbike' stand (with the front lift arm if you want the front wheel in the air too), that's your perfect solution...
Your videos made me happier
Damn what a quality full put together content. Great job and keep it up...
The slack setter I find to be really useful. Especially while learning. Would recommend it
Love the editing style and self humor!
I have a Profi Cat Laser chain alignment tool which works on the lower end of the sprocket a lot quicker
Jep, works perfect since day one. I have no idea which brand I have. Laser cat or something. Only 30 bucks...
As usual very informative keep it up 👍😊
You are doing great work
You could have bought the chain alignment tool from motion pro or it's not that good? I haven't chance to use it
I have one and it's brilliant. With practice it works fine without removing the chain guard on my DL650.
What if you clamp the laser on the bottom of the sprocket so it puts the beam on the bottom of the chain. You will have to look under the chain but the chain guard won’t be in the wat.
It never crossed my mind that you can not get amazon in South Africa. If you want cheap bike stuff try AliExpress a lot is rubbish but some is good, I got my gsr engraved brake and clutch leavers for about £15 good quality too on eBay they are a lot more.
We do have or can buy from it but it takes long to arrive.
Hey dude I also went mad at first with Amazon but have a new found love for eBay. Just stick to companies and check them out first. You know us SA guys trust nobody 🤪 get damaged box stuff which is new inside and genuine parts at reduced prices. I got BMW parts at about 40% less . Where are you in UK ?
You can use the monkey at the opposite side, you can place a mirror on the ground to check alignment. 😉
The chain guide can be attached to the underside of the sprocket...
You can use that LASER Thing upside down on the lower side of sprocket, Serves the purpose
just put the laser on tje bottom side of the chain ... this should work too right?
I just watched a red bull as half way through this vid, so I guess your dream came true 😂
Rear wheel alignment Lazer, why not laze the bottom of spocket seem pretty open at bottom.
Can you try the laser tire allignment tool at the bottom but might need a mirror to see it from the bottom
That’s what I was thinking when I was watching.
for rear chain alignment I use the motion pro chain alignment tool. works amazingly even with my chain guard on
You need to get LighTech Chain Adjusters. This should be your first mod.
That’s a beautiful O2 sensor plug you have there.
Commenting for algorithms 💙
Your videos are so informative and SO FUN
ive been keeping my eye on those two +1 chock and chain thing also another one from motion pro is the clutch wire luber. also a motorcycle lift/table is another one to consider just expensive.
It's not hard to remove a chain guard. Surely it's usually off for most maintenance jobs that would lead to checking alignment anyway?
Cant you just put batterys in the thing and remove the chain guard on my bike its only 2 small bolts??
Have you tried the laser on the under side of the sproket / chain... Where there is no chain guard...
There is another laser just like that one you simply hold against the side of your sprocket, idk its name tho.
I feel like i would trust that one more, since you can simply put it on a table and check if the laser is really centered. How do you know that cheap plastic thing is not off by 2° or so?
That wheel straightener would work great on my dirt bike, not so much on my street bike though😕
Your wheel chock is bad, probably (no offence) because you bought a cheap one idk. The original “BumpStop” is excellent, as is the “ConStands” version which I also use. It’s far easier and smoother, moving the bike on and off the chock. And the Chain Alignment Monkey is great to, it is a small price to pay to remove a bolt or three to get the chain guard off! 👍🏻
The laser chain gadget, just do it under the chain not on the top, there is no guard there ;)
haha I have a GSX1400 - try a paddock stand which has to sit under the flats of the swingarm because there are no spools. Now THAT sucks,
Man when u sold away your R1 i was pretty sad. That bike is a beast
Put the laser on the bottom of the sprocket upside down and check the chain where it's running underneath 😎
u could mount laser monkey on the low side of the sprocket . it will doo the same work.
up or down doesnt matter
Did it occur to you to remove the chain guard? It's only two screws on most bikes.
You have to agitate the towel against the grit guard and you should have 2 buckets
Is there any way (except wire lock) to lock the Hemet on bike...to prevent theft..... because its annoying to carry helemt everywhere.
as always, excellent video!!
Hi , I was wandering if you have dealt with any alarmed disc locks ? And if so which one would you recommend ? Thanks Rob ...
instead of a springhook i always use some steel wire, but rly intresting that the Springhook exist xD
It's been soo long since I started to search for the paddock stand which you showed today.. thanks and also
Love from india