I used these for years in the Navy on the A-7-E and F/A-18A. They found, just like any soldered connection, that a dry soldered joint was possible and discontinued use of them. They work great for automotive applications.
Chris K The bismuth solder they use is really brittle and barely fuses onto the wires forming something I'd call a proper solder joint - it just peels apart if you investigate by removing the sleeve. The temperature isn't high enough for proper flux action and what you get is more like a little casting or moulding around the stripped wire. Furthermore, it's a joint that you can't see or inspect properly. Joints can go high-resistance in time, especially if the wires weren't completely fresh. We found them to be unreliable where I worked and I eventually refused to use them. A proper crimp, put on with the right tool, is bomb-proof, though it lacks the water resistance.
Former military soldering technician. These are very useful, with one step added. You must either clean and pre tin the conductors, or preferably - apply a light coating of lead free, silver bearing flux to the wires before heating. This reduces the risk of a poor joint associated with low temp solder rings, and one will ensure a solid and long lasting joint. Also, we prefer to pre heat the solder ring area until it flows the finish in a second step by moving toward the sealant ends, avoiding any heat damage to the wire insulation. Ideally, we use a bare crimp ferrule, soldered by hand, and a marine grade adhesive shrink over the joint. If the project matters to you, you’ll greatly benefit from investing a few extra minutes. Great video.
I'm a trash truck mechanic and this "seems" like a good idea but I would have liked to see the heat shrink cut off to see the solder . A pull test would have been nice too .
i agree, generally a good solder splice the wire itself has a good mechanical connection before you solder and heat shrink. another possible issue would be if the wire is not perfectly clean it may look like it soldered the joint because the solder is contained in the heat shrink but may have not actually bonded to the copper strands making a poor joint. seems like a good idea but i am bit skeptical, maybe i will have to get some to test out.
I'm sure the pull test would be fine, but I'm sure that the solder is around the wire and not throught. It will still be quite strong, but electrically I have doubts and I would consider it as unsoldered twisted wire heat shrinked with extra mechanical strength. At work, I repair things, and I solder and heat shrink. It still take less time than this all in one thing, and I'm 100% sure that my splice will be 100% fine. I'm more concerned about the glue leakage than anything else about it :D
@@thephantom1492 i use these without issue on a jeep that gets beaten through the mud weekly, they work great i give them a tug test yet to have one fail, id rather it fail when im sitting there with all the tools and a new connector, theyre dirt cheap on amazon, cheaper than good heat shrink tubing.. definitely faster too can repair a broken wire in under 30 seconds with just a heat gun and wire stripper.. or lighter and knife in a pinch but the heat gun is much better
These are amazing, and work very well. They don't put trash in aircraft. If you think these are so awful, don't ever set foot on an airplane. They use thousands upon thousands.
I have messed around with these things on automotive projects. They work OK, but I still prefer crimped butt connectors covered with glue lined heat shrink. One of the things that always bothered me about these was the clear heat shrink covering. It always looked like the heat shrink had failed and wire strands were uncovered. Not sure this ever happened, but you cannot tell as it is a clear material. As others have said, it cracks me up that Summit is portraying these as new technology. They have been around for a very long time. Not talking trash about these devices though. They do work....I just don't think they are quite as good as the crimp connector/heat shrink route. They are no faster or easier to use. Brilliant solution to a non-existent problem.
Set heat gun to 280 if you have a digital, start in the middle and wait for solder to flow, then drop the temp to 200 and work to the outsides. Got a universal heat gun to solder nozzle drop down for 3 bucks on ebay. When working in limited spaces these will really shine, still do it the old fashioned way when there's room to with an original weller gun.
I worked for years for local government in fleet management, one of the parts guys let KAR products talk him into some of these self soldering heat shrink connectors. Sounds like a great idea and certainly speeded up certain repairs. However, the solder has a low melting point to keep from overheating the shrink sleeve material and destroying it, the solder does not flow well into the wire connection and over a period of time the splice fails and creates a failure. Makes for a difficult diagnosis some times. I think they are no better than the scotch locks that gives mechanics fits. After about a year of using these connectors, both the self-solder and scotch locks were banned from our shop. Just can't beat the old style crimp connectors or using regular solder and shrink sleeve to insulate it. I apologize for bashing your product, but in my opinion, this causes more problems than it fixes.
Scotch locks 😂😂😂 I saw this and immediately thought about the old scotch lock messes I'd see on the regular while working in car audio. This would be a dream for the average stereo ghetto rigging trunk rattler, who would of course totally believe that they're some sort of supreme connection that gives them magical benefits 😂😂😂
Lol ... Yep gotta have 3 hands on that job..i could have definitely used one of those connectors right about yesterday. There are jobs that require innovation.
We had them in the 1960’s in the British army. They were copper on the outside with a sulphur blob ( like a match) that was struck with a striker strip. The wires were put in both ends, struck and left to cool - the copper on the outside was insulated from the wires.
I've used another brand of these and they kind of work. The solder connection is like a cold solder joint. I cut the solder joint and noted penetration but when I flexed the soldered wires with pliers, the solder just flaked off the wires. That never happens with regular old 60/40 unless there's other issues that cause a cold solder joint. I always judge a repair as "good" if I can say that I would I'd fix my moms car that way. I would never use these on my moms car.
I think summit racing is the tops. Your service is the best. Wish you could come to Canada so we could by pass those Canadian duties. Will still use your service regardless. Thanks again. Keep up the good work.
Nice, but don't forget that heating should be applied from one side to another (like, left-center-right), to ensure the air goes out. This way it'll be more durable and last longer
These work great on small wire sizes. 18-22 AWG. However, anything larger and the solder doesn't quite saturate the connection like it would with solder applied with a Soldering iron or Gun. They ARE a good idea to have as an emergency kits in your car or truck for "On the road" connections, but I would cut them out and do a proper connection whenever I got home. Reason being the connection is NOT complete and if you get a HIGH CURRENT going through this wire,,the solder has a Good Chance of re-melting and the connection coming Loose. .
I just watched another video doing a test with them. He cut them open after and the solder doesn't even penetrate deep into the wires, so its only good for small AWG wires. Soldering is the best method for larger AWG.
The trouble with these types of Soldering jobs is accessibility, it's usually not the soldering that's difficult, but having to access the wires in a confined space like under a Dashboard.
Even outside of the dashboard while soldering radio wires , tons of them...probably be hard to get that heat-gun in there, i mean, i've done it but having to intertwine wires that dont have multiple braidable wires is impossible. very small wires probably won't work with these, unless they make little micro ones.
These have been used in the aviation industry for 40 years! You should use a curved shield on the end on the heat gun to ensure it is heated all the way round evenly and you dont need to turn the cable either ... which may be difficult to do in a confined space or loom.
I mean, it’s a great idea for those who don’t appreciate a good Solder job.. And you have money to afford these things. Soldering is one of the most satisfying things you can do.
Ithz You ain’t lying brother. I feel like these are specifically designed to those who can’t solder. They are expensive too, I ended up looking them up on google for Laughs lol. Won’t go broke on them, but I enjoy Soldering too much to cheat myself
I tried this today for the first time. I have to note that (as with ordinary heat shrink tubing) you must be careful of stray wires. I had a stray wire poke through the insulation. To be sure, I checked it with an ohm meter after the heating. yup, stray wire poked through the clear tubing. I think you may need to start with a heat gun as suggested so the shrink tubing doesn't get too hot.
Nifty idea. Handy for locations where it's hard to use a soldrring iron. Temperamental.With the brand I used, the full sized air gun with defkector melted the adhesive too much before the solder flowed. I eneded up buying a $38 palm-sized butand air gun to finish melting the solder without damaging the adhesive rings. They work good enough.
We repaired USAF aircraft wiring with them all the time. The shrink tube is strong and the sealant in each end that waterproofs the connection provide a good hold. Just don't heat them too much.
coming from summit, you'd think ya recommend something with an aviation splice due to G forces. the low temp solder is nice but the whole splice is 'weak' and you cant tell if you have a 'cold joint' issue (flux and adhesion is still critical even at low temps...) rather use an iron and tubing and do it the normal way. Should sell the tubes in kits with the sealer. that would nice to have already done without having to pack ends with silicone before shrinking.
I use these in my commercial garage, and you have to be careful with how heat you apply, or the plastic bursts and exposes the solder/wire. So be careful. But they are really good
I've used these and they work really well a tad pricey but can get them for about 20 cents each. I could not break the connections. a bit ott if you only have a few connections to make but if you have 40 to 80 on multi cables is make it way easier and quicker.
I work in aerospace. There are reliability problems with the solder failing to flow into the entire connection, with the extremely low melt temp, and with inconsistent pull resistance results in the finished product. You can end up with intermittent failures down the line and trying to pick one of those out of an aviation harness is a major pain to put it politely. If it’s not good enough for the flying machines at work, it’s not reliable enough when I am on a motorcycle, nor do I feel like chasing these sorts of bugs out of my car. I will stick with the Boeing/NASA approved traditional wrap and solder process. Results in a strong connection with very high reliability. Takes more time up front, but costs me less money in materials, and ends up saving me time and frustration on the back end because I’m not chasing electrical gremlins that resulted from an attempted shortcut.
Great video - now to repair my XJ’s door panel wiring and the fuel pump since that’s hanging on by a threads. I’ll have to see if the door jam harness can be pulled into the cab because that will be way easier to work with especially since you want to apply heat all the way around the wire.
I love these. Bought them on amazon. 250 for like $25. Used them to add water proof pigtails for some after market LED fogs. Used them in headlights. Will use them to change the pad wear sensor pigtails on my audi to seamlessly take Porsche calipers and pads. Using them on harnesses in the car. Im used to soldering and glued heatshrink but try soldering outside in a wheel well or deep in your dash. Love these things. Just dont melt them.
These were just recommended to my by a marine electronics dealer. I laughed through the whole video!!! Can you imagine doing this in the confined space of a bilge? An engine compartment? I just spliced the wires on an old boat trailer I purchased to transport my RIB. The lights were fine but the wire was torn up bad. I put a new wiring harness onto old wire. The wire in these are not marine grade and as such the old wire was black. Any one who has tried to solder a corroded wire knows you get no adhesion! So with my heat shrink, crimp style butt splice connectors and dielectric grease...... Frankenstein Lives! LOL The guy was using 6" to 8" sections of brand new wire, on a bench with a vice to hold the heat gun! ROFLMAO Not to say that there is no use for these! Learn to solder! Get dielectric grease! Know when you need an aviation quality connection (Like My Transducer)! This was a good laugh!
Solder connections last as long as the current is not too high... Especially this "low temperature" solder... Solder flows after time. A good crimp doesn't. And to be honest crimping doesn't hurt, is much cheaper and consumes less time. And where water tightness is required there is time to add a drop of glue/silicone/shrink tubing or another type of connection available.
These are mostly used in avionics in aviation. There is ONLY just enough solder to perform the splice. The key is to heat the joint JUST enough to melt the solder. If you heat it any more than that and the solder will wick away from the splice and it will make your splice joint weak.
These things are the nuts! Great for cat5 and small cables and applications where you can't use a joining method that exerts too much force or is susceptible to interfereance
We use these in the navy on aircraft, but we would never use them to do this, they are actually used for splicing emi shielding back together or EMI shielding to ground. We use a crimp splice with an environmental heatsheink like the one used here. Also, these are way too expensive for the job the accomplish
I have these. Pretty good but sometimes hard to get solder melt without damaging the shrink. I'm guessing these are only possible because they're from China and the solder had a high lead content to enable it to melt at a low temperature. Lead solders are getting harder to find due to regulation.
As a mechanic i have used this several times at least 7 years ago and know it has been available long before then also Stoneage technology reinvented by summit racing for a premium price😂🤣
But does it provide a true low impedance connection? I can't imagine this being as good as traditional soldering methods. I'd at least tin the wires before using one of these to ensure low resistance.
The link you provided for "Amazon" shows many different (and distinctly Chinese) vendors. Which ones did YOU use in the video - where did you get those? How much did you pay for them?
now if i touch it will it burn my fingers ? oh and btw i saw a wire that was either almost poking thru or about to.and for a buck a piece.at this point i think i would just like my 3.43 minutes of my life back.
No more crimping, using a soldering iron, or cutting shrink tube to fit, No more crimping, using a soldering iron, or cutting shrink tube to fit, No more crimping, using a soldering iron, or cutting shrink tube to fit, No more crimping, using a soldering iron, or cutting shrink tube to fit, No more crimping, using a soldering iron, or cutting shrink tube to fit, No more crimping, using a soldering iron, or cutting shrink tube to fit, No more crimping, using a soldering iron, or cutting shrink tube to fit, No more crimping, using a soldering iron, or cutting shrink tube to fit, No more crimping, using a soldering iron, or cutting shrink tube to fit, No more crimping, using a soldering iron, or cutting shrink tube to fit, No more crimping, using a soldering iron, or cutting shrink tube to fit
Every time i see these things i have the same doubts about reliability. Id rather just solder seperately with the solder alloy that i choose, then cover with conventional shrink tubing in my choice of color. Much cheaper too. If you want it to be weather protected one can add rtv or other good quality adhesive before shrinking. Im just now trying hot melt adhesives for the first time so i cant speak of how good or bad it is.
Is this good for use with connectors that are around an engine? Got a single connector 2 pin that needs a new housing, but I'm worried I'll need to splice in some new wire ends as well, would this hold up to being around the engine or will it further melt?
What if ur wiring isn’t that long tho I had a rodent chew through a wire on my car and one end is a whole wire and the other Ian connected to a part which isn’t the easiest to get to and the wire is literally like a quarter inch what would u recommend
Too expensive. Would rather take the time to hand solder and cover with self adhesive heat shrink tubing. The man hours alone are less expensive than the cost of these.
@@sergeantseven4240 try amazon, fast free shipping can get them for under 20cents a piece which is less than the good heatshrink with adhesive in it an theyre faster and easier especially when fixxing a broken wire thats tucked up in your dash or on the fuel tank somewhere tight
If you are splicing a wire into an existing wire, can you connect 2 ends on one side and one on another? How would you use one of these with 3 wire ends?
these are everywhere, be the first to make them in a T or more likely a Y configuration and ill pay a dollar a piece.. currently no good connector sold for splicing into a line and some places like under a up in behind a dash panel you just cant strip wrap solder and tape a connection
Probably the millionth one to ask this but what is that low temperature solder made of? Does it compromise performance? My understanding of low temperature metals is that they are not so skookum!
Probably not. The reason why they are not permitted is because soldered joints crack when exposed to vibrations. Mechanical connections are much more elastic and doesn't have issues with this.
Hi Studio A Design, It appears that there is a link in the description: www.summitracing.com/search/product-line/dx-engineering-heat-shrink-self-solder-wire-splice-connectors
People have tried them and taken it apart after, its a cold joint, doesn't actually wick through the wires more as melt on the surface. It's really the worst of both worlds, they are expensive, and only popular due to making it look easy, just as everyone else said imagine doing this in a tight spot where you would want a solid connection.
I used these for years in the Navy on the A-7-E and F/A-18A. They found, just like any soldered connection, that a dry soldered joint was possible and discontinued use of them. They work great for automotive applications.
Chris K The bismuth solder they use is really brittle and barely fuses onto the wires forming something I'd call a proper solder joint - it just peels apart if you investigate by removing the sleeve. The temperature isn't high enough for proper flux action and what you get is more like a little casting or moulding around the stripped wire. Furthermore, it's a joint that you can't see or inspect properly. Joints can go high-resistance in time, especially if the wires weren't completely fresh. We found them to be unreliable where I worked and I eventually refused to use them. A proper crimp, put on with the right tool, is bomb-proof, though it lacks the water resistance.
But Amazon is much cheaper, www.amazon.com/dp/B07H28DFYN, no thanks.
@@Rich-on6fe it is often too hot under the hood of vehicles for this low temp solder.
Whiners
Yup, no good for automotive either
Former military soldering technician. These are very useful, with one step added. You must either clean and pre tin the conductors, or preferably - apply a light coating of lead free, silver bearing flux to the wires before heating. This reduces the risk of a poor joint associated with low temp solder rings, and one will ensure a solid and long lasting joint. Also, we prefer to pre heat the solder ring area until it flows the finish in a second step by moving toward the sealant ends, avoiding any heat damage to the wire insulation. Ideally, we use a bare crimp ferrule, soldered by hand, and a marine grade adhesive shrink over the joint.
If the project matters to you, you’ll greatly benefit from investing a few extra minutes.
Great video.
I'm a trash truck mechanic and this "seems" like a good idea but I would have liked to see the heat shrink cut off to see the solder . A pull test would have been nice too .
For real.
The lack of even a slight tugging really says it all, " all " being what most of us were probably suspecting to begin with.
i agree, generally a good solder splice the wire itself has a good mechanical connection before you solder and heat shrink. another possible issue would be if the wire is not perfectly clean it may look like it soldered the joint because the solder is contained in the heat shrink but may have not actually bonded to the copper strands making a poor joint. seems like a good idea but i am bit skeptical, maybe i will have to get some to test out.
I'm sure the pull test would be fine, but I'm sure that the solder is around the wire and not throught. It will still be quite strong, but electrically I have doubts and I would consider it as unsoldered twisted wire heat shrinked with extra mechanical strength.
At work, I repair things, and I solder and heat shrink. It still take less time than this all in one thing, and I'm 100% sure that my splice will be 100% fine. I'm more concerned about the glue leakage than anything else about it :D
@@thephantom1492 i use these without issue on a jeep that gets beaten through the mud weekly, they work great i give them a tug test yet to have one fail, id rather it fail when im sitting there with all the tools and a new connector, theyre dirt cheap on amazon, cheaper than good heat shrink tubing.. definitely faster too can repair a broken wire in under 30 seconds with just a heat gun and wire stripper.. or lighter and knife in a pinch but the heat gun is much better
These are amazing, and work very well.
They don't put trash in aircraft.
If you think these are so awful, don't ever set foot on an airplane. They use thousands upon thousands.
Your intro is so long and annoying. 15s just for reving engine.
this !! intro is stupid and useless, lose it holy shit
Agree.
click for buy:
www.aliexpress.com/item/Waterproof-Solder-Wire-Connectors-50-100pcs-Seal-Heat-Shrink-Butt-Wire-Connectors-for-dropship/32914602228.html
Really really bad... I loled the content though, but turn the decibels down and shorten it
intro too loud
Should I let it cool down before I touch it?
Be careful!!! The butt connector is hot. This warning is for all the 2-5 year olds rewiring their projects.
😂😂😂😂
No need to worry bout that...get right in there!!
It's optional.
Lick it 1st then touch it with your hands just in case
I have messed around with these things on automotive projects. They work OK, but I still prefer crimped butt connectors covered with glue lined heat shrink. One of the things that always bothered me about these was the clear heat shrink covering. It always looked like the heat shrink had failed and wire strands were uncovered. Not sure this ever happened, but you cannot tell as it is a clear material.
As others have said, it cracks me up that Summit is portraying these as new technology. They have been around for a very long time.
Not talking trash about these devices though. They do work....I just don't think they are quite as good as the crimp connector/heat shrink route. They are no faster or easier to use. Brilliant solution to a non-existent problem.
Crimping IS the best way
Set heat gun to 280 if you have a digital, start in the middle and wait for solder to flow, then drop the temp to 200 and work to the outsides. Got a universal heat gun to solder nozzle drop down for 3 bucks on ebay.
When working in limited spaces these will really shine, still do it the old fashioned way when there's room to with an original weller gun.
I worked for years for local government in fleet management, one of the parts guys let KAR products talk him into some of these self soldering heat shrink connectors. Sounds like a great idea and certainly speeded up certain repairs. However, the solder has a low melting point to keep from overheating the shrink sleeve material and destroying it, the solder does not flow well into the wire connection and over a period of time the splice fails and creates a failure. Makes for a difficult diagnosis some times. I think they are no better than the scotch locks that gives mechanics fits. After about a year of using these connectors, both the self-solder and scotch locks were banned from our shop. Just can't beat the old style crimp connectors or using regular solder and shrink sleeve to insulate it. I apologize for bashing your product, but in my opinion, this causes more problems than it fixes.
You got shit sleeves, I use them on military/ aerospace wire looms as a job
Scotch locks 😂😂😂
I saw this and immediately thought about the old scotch lock messes I'd see on the regular while working in car audio.
This would be a dream for the average stereo ghetto rigging trunk rattler, who would of course totally believe that they're some sort of supreme connection that gives them magical benefits 😂😂😂
@@WorksopGimp I've only used the one connector so far, and came up with the same conclusion.
@@HitLeftistsWithHammers LOL!!!
Yea because I can hold the heatgun underneath a cars dash board and gently hold the two wires together and spin them so its all even.
still easier then dicking with a soldering iron in there. but not as easy as using crimp connectors.
Obviously this works best in certain conditions.
Lol ... Yep gotta have 3 hands on that job..i could have definitely used one of those connectors right about yesterday. There are jobs that require innovation.
Small butane torch work wonders
Great answer! Can't do this in a tight place. LOL
We had them in the 1960’s in the British army. They were copper on the outside with a sulphur blob ( like a match) that was struck with a striker strip. The wires were put in both ends, struck and left to cool - the copper on the outside was insulated from the wires.
I read they were also used in World War 2 to quickly repair broken wires in the field!
I've used another brand of these and they kind of work. The solder connection is like a cold solder joint. I cut the solder joint and noted penetration but when I flexed the soldered wires with pliers, the solder just flaked off the wires. That never happens with regular old 60/40 unless there's other issues that cause a cold solder joint. I always judge a repair as "good" if I can say that I would I'd fix my moms car that way. I would never use these on my moms car.
This is gonna make all my vehicle wiring mods much easier and look cleaner
I think summit racing is the tops. Your service is the best. Wish you could come to Canada so we could by pass those Canadian duties. Will still use your service regardless. Thanks again. Keep up the good work.
looks awesome but at almost a buck a piece ill pass and do it the old fashioned way
Amazon sells them for under .25 each.
+gsxrgeorge00 can you post the lino?
EBay has them dirt cheap.
Same quality, yet affordable.
Just used them a couple days ago and worked perfectly.
Nice, but don't forget that heating should be applied from one side to another (like, left-center-right), to ensure the air goes out. This way it'll be more durable and last longer
Great tip! Thank you. ❤
Using smaller nozzle heatgun, you can heat the center first, then to one side.
We called these Delray connectors when I worked on the road. Really like these for good solid water tight connect
These work great on small wire sizes. 18-22 AWG. However, anything larger and the solder doesn't quite saturate the connection like it would with solder applied with a Soldering iron or Gun. They ARE a good idea to have as an emergency kits in your car or truck for "On the road" connections, but I would cut them out and do a proper connection whenever I got home. Reason being the connection is NOT complete and if you get a HIGH CURRENT going through this wire,,the solder has a Good Chance of re-melting and the connection coming Loose. .
EXCELLENT POINT!
I just watched another video doing a test with them. He cut them open after and the solder doesn't even penetrate deep into the wires, so its only good for small AWG wires. Soldering is the best method for larger AWG.
The trouble with these types of Soldering jobs is accessibility, it's usually not the soldering that's difficult, but having to access the wires in a confined space like under a Dashboard.
Even outside of the dashboard while soldering radio wires , tons of them...probably be hard to get that heat-gun in there, i mean, i've done it but having to intertwine wires that dont have multiple braidable wires is impossible. very small wires probably won't work with these, unless they make little micro ones.
These have been used in the aviation industry for 40 years! You should use a curved shield on the end on the heat gun to ensure it is heated all the way round evenly and you dont need to turn the cable either ... which may be difficult to do in a confined space or loom.
the old men in the inventor's workshop has designed a solder joint for dummies trying to water down great workmanship once again
Nice easy explanation and demonstration.
Your other people's comments are negative and unjustified.
Thanks for the video.
Thank you for watching! We appreciate your feedback.
My dad used to be a radio technician He's retired now but he was looking at this video and he got a little mad... "Oh come on that's cheating!"😅😅
That is actually super clean. The heat shrink holds the solder in to melt to the correct wire gauge.
I mean, it’s a great idea for those who don’t appreciate a good Solder job.. And you have money to afford these things.
Soldering is one of the most satisfying things you can do.
indeed the satisfaction of making a good solder joint and the fact that its waaaay cheaper to just use regular solder makes this useless to me
Ithz You ain’t lying brother. I feel like these are specifically designed to those who can’t solder. They are expensive too, I ended up looking them up on google for Laughs lol. Won’t go broke on them, but I enjoy Soldering too much to cheat myself
Great idea but $0.82 each it's a bit steep for me
I can buy bullets for that much
@Junior Mudd
bullets = lead
Gunpowder = heat
Gunpowder + bullets = hot lead
Hot lead = solder
I can solder my wires by shooting them
@@chasebh89 okay you win, champ.
It's for marine use
And with them threat people to buy you those pieces 😂
Price from the Moon without a doubt.
I tried this today for the first time. I have to note that (as with ordinary heat shrink tubing) you must be careful of stray wires. I had a stray wire poke through the insulation. To be sure, I checked it with an ohm meter after the heating. yup, stray wire poked through the clear tubing. I think you may need to start with a heat gun as suggested so the shrink tubing doesn't get too hot.
I used them on my Ariel wire as I had rain water coming down to the tv. Worked . Saved me £280.
Just got a pack of 120 of these for £9 ...came here to see the demo vid , thanks
Nifty idea. Handy for locations where it's hard to use a soldrring iron. Temperamental.With the brand I used, the full sized air gun with defkector melted the adhesive too much before the solder flowed. I eneded up buying a $38 palm-sized butand air gun to finish melting the solder without damaging the adhesive rings. They work good enough.
These were standard parts we used in the USAF back in the 1970's. This is old technology.
Marshall, I never saw these in the Army. Are they stronger? I am going to rewire my boat, just wondering if I should use these connectors????
We repaired USAF aircraft wiring with them all the time. The shrink tube is strong and the sealant in each end that waterproofs the connection provide a good hold. Just don't heat them too much.
Marshall, thanks, I will give it a try.
I was going to comment that these have been around in military aviation for decades, but you beat me to it. Nothing "new" about them.
Used ones made by Raychem back in the 80's in civil and military aircraft in the UK. Not new at all!
coming from summit, you'd think ya recommend something with an aviation splice due to G forces. the low temp solder is nice but the whole splice is 'weak' and you cant tell if you have a 'cold joint' issue (flux and adhesion is still critical even at low temps...) rather use an iron and tubing and do it the normal way. Should sell the tubes in kits with the sealer. that would nice to have already done without having to pack ends with silicone before shrinking.
I use these in my commercial garage, and you have to be careful with how heat you apply, or the plastic bursts and exposes the solder/wire. So be careful. But they are really good
I didn't understand the thumbs down until I saw the price... Oldies but goodies never failed me
This is perfect when joining short lengths of wire where you can’t keep the heat shrink tubing far enough out of the way while soldering.
I've used these and they work really well a tad pricey but can get them for about 20 cents each. I could not break the connections. a bit ott if you only have a few connections to make but if you have 40 to 80 on multi cables is make it way easier and quicker.
I work in aerospace. There are reliability problems with the solder failing to flow into the entire connection, with the extremely low melt temp, and with inconsistent pull resistance results in the finished product. You can end up with intermittent failures down the line and trying to pick one of those out of an aviation harness is a major pain to put it politely. If it’s not good enough for the flying machines at work, it’s not reliable enough when I am on a motorcycle, nor do I feel like chasing these sorts of bugs out of my car. I will stick with the Boeing/NASA approved traditional wrap and solder process. Results in a strong connection with very high reliability. Takes more time up front, but costs me less money in materials, and ends up saving me time and frustration on the back end because I’m not chasing electrical gremlins that resulted from an attempted shortcut.
WELL SAID DAN!
Great video - now to repair my XJ’s door panel wiring and the fuel pump since that’s hanging on by a threads. I’ll have to see if the door jam harness can be pulled into the cab because that will be way easier to work with especially since you want to apply heat all the way around the wire.
As an aerospace technician, we've been using these since 2003
Wow could not you make a longer intro?
This is much cheaper: amzn.to/2ONioh5
Probably but wouldn't that be more annoying?
@@cesarin159x I'm being sarcastic
Higor Guedes stop comlaining
@@dewenwede9095 takes me to a bunch of dogs..
this is a perfect example of great material sciences and innovative thinking.
After reading the comments i think i will stick to old school methods.i like having 100% reliability..😊
I love these. Bought them on amazon. 250 for like $25. Used them to add water proof pigtails for some after market LED fogs. Used them in headlights. Will use them to change the pad wear sensor pigtails on my audi to seamlessly take Porsche calipers and pads. Using them on harnesses in the car. Im used to soldering and glued heatshrink but try soldering outside in a wheel well or deep in your dash. Love these things. Just dont melt them.
@Bantham Nobilisit's more like 300 for $50 but you see them right on Amazon. Used them recently to hook up some aftermarket gauges.
How are they holding up 4 years later?
These things are great. A bit pricy, but 95% as good as a solder join AND waterproof with nothing but a heat gun.
I ran floppy disk drive assembly lines for Tandy Corp. in the late 70's. We used thousands of these every day to splice wire and make terminations.
Wow such an new product....oh wait, ive been using connectors like these since at least 2006. A little bit of research found a 1967 patent for this.
Link?
This is awesome product...where have you been all of my life? I am ordering off ebay as I am writing this. Can't wait to try it out.
These were just recommended to my by a marine electronics dealer. I laughed through the whole video!!! Can you imagine doing this in the confined space of a bilge? An engine compartment? I just spliced the wires on an old boat trailer I purchased to transport my RIB. The lights were fine but the wire was torn up bad. I put a new wiring harness onto old wire. The wire in these are not marine grade and as such the old wire was black. Any one who has tried to solder a corroded wire knows you get no adhesion! So with my heat shrink, crimp style butt splice connectors and dielectric grease...... Frankenstein Lives! LOL The guy was using 6" to 8" sections of brand new wire, on a bench with a vice to hold the heat gun! ROFLMAO Not to say that there is no use for these! Learn to solder! Get dielectric grease! Know when you need an aviation quality connection (Like My Transducer)! This was a good laugh!
Solder connections last as long as the current is not too high... Especially this "low temperature" solder... Solder flows after time. A good crimp doesn't. And to be honest crimping doesn't hurt, is much cheaper and consumes less time. And where water tightness is required there is time to add a drop of glue/silicone/shrink tubing or another type of connection available.
I've seen these in person, very cool, but I still prefer the solder and shrink method.
They had this stuff 30 years ago from Worth Way to expensive. I’ll just solder the wires and use heat shrink with the adhesive inside.
I bought some crimp ,solder and seal connectors for a application,, ordered from napa 2.00 apiece
They are cheaper everywhere else. They work awesome I used some on my motorcycle wish I had more at the time
These are mostly used in avionics in aviation. There is ONLY just enough solder to perform the splice. The key is to heat the joint JUST enough to melt the solder. If you heat it any more than that and the solder will wick away from the splice and it will make your splice joint weak.
I’ve used these. They’re cheap on amazon. My only criticism is that the shrink sleeve is a little softer than I’d like
How much stress can it handle? I know over time solder weakens so would the tubing help hold the cables together as well?
These things aren't new. A friend gave me a bunch of them over 20 years ago. I still have some left.
CAphotos Never seen these before would've been useful to know
They have been using them in aircraft for a while.
@@gsxrgeorge00 exactly were i used them. worked for the swiss airforce and saw them all the time.
20 years was a long time ago.
no shit sherlock
These things are the nuts! Great for cat5 and small cables and applications where you can't use a joining method that exerts too much force or is susceptible to interfereance
These will change your life. Everyone should buy some.
Thank you for your feedback, Dan!
@@SummitRacing used them in aircraft for a decade.
We use these in the navy on aircraft, but we would never use them to do this, they are actually used for splicing emi shielding back together or EMI shielding to ground. We use a crimp splice with an environmental heatsheink like the one used here. Also, these are way too expensive for the job the accomplish
Real world use is inconceivable. In theory these things are the greatest thing ever. Ill stick to my iron.
I have these. Pretty good but sometimes hard to get solder melt without damaging the shrink. I'm guessing these are only possible because they're from China and the solder had a high lead content to enable it to melt at a low temperature. Lead solders are getting harder to find due to regulation.
leaded solder is not hard to find.
I think it's Bismuth
As a mechanic i have used this several times at least 7 years ago and know it has been available long before then also
Stoneage technology reinvented by summit racing for a premium price😂🤣
So let me get this straight... No more crimping? Using a solder iron? Having to cut shrink tube to fit? Brilliant!
Thank you for watching, Jon!
As a trained electrician we were taught, never to use solder to connect wires, always crimp or twist then solder.
Is this safe for heavy loads, like a blower motor connector replacement?
But does it provide a true low impedance connection? I can't imagine this being as good as traditional soldering methods. I'd at least tin the wires before using one of these to ensure low resistance.
The link you provided for "Amazon" shows many different (and distinctly Chinese) vendors. Which ones did YOU use in the video - where did you get those? How much did you pay for them?
That is a great innovation! Very useful!
I'm going to try my hand at soldering some wires for the first time and if that's a big fail, nice to know this is available as an alternative.
What if you just solder them with an iron the traditional way and then just put normal heatshrink tube on the joint ?
Dude I've been soldering for years, but only now I've discovered this!
How well does it keep the water out?
Very well if the insulation is not damaged where the ring seats.
now if i touch it will it burn my fingers ? oh and btw i saw a wire that was either almost poking thru or about to.and for a buck a piece.at this point i think i would just like my 3.43 minutes of my life back.
Do these have a waterproof adhesive sealer built right in?
TylerTimoJ only if you cut shrink tube to fit
The entire sleeve actually has adhesive, but the colored rings are designed to provide a watertight seal.
I've been soldering cables together like this for centuries I'm so glad there's one product on makes this a lot easier
So what do u do if the wires are 2 different sizes ? I’m wiring trailer marker lights wires are smaller than the the wiring coming to the lights
Thanks for all the comments. The best part.
This would’ve been better without the music
I know...I was waiting for Brian Jones to start belting one out.
What it's the best temperature for the heat gun?
No more crimping, using a soldering iron, or cutting shrink tube to fit, No more crimping, using a soldering iron, or cutting shrink tube to fit, No more crimping, using a soldering iron, or cutting shrink tube to fit, No more crimping, using a soldering iron, or cutting shrink tube to fit, No more crimping, using a soldering iron, or cutting shrink tube to fit, No more crimping, using a soldering iron, or cutting shrink tube to fit, No more crimping, using a soldering iron, or cutting shrink tube to fit, No more crimping, using a soldering iron, or cutting shrink tube to fit, No more crimping, using a soldering iron, or cutting shrink tube to fit, No more crimping, using a soldering iron, or cutting shrink tube to fit, No more crimping, using a soldering iron, or cutting shrink tube to fit
Can you repeat that?
Be careful the butt connector will be hot. Let it cool down before you touch it
These suck so bad I threw them out.
we've been using something like this on aircraft for years, lovely little things.
something can yo elaborate ????
Every time i see these things i have the same doubts about reliability. Id rather just solder seperately with the solder alloy that i choose, then cover with conventional shrink tubing in my choice of color. Much cheaper too.
If you want it to be weather protected one can add rtv or other good quality adhesive before shrinking. Im just now trying hot melt adhesives for the first time so i cant speak of how good or bad it is.
Is this good for use with connectors that are around an engine? Got a single connector 2 pin that needs a new housing, but I'm worried I'll need to splice in some new wire ends as well, would this hold up to being around the engine or will it further melt?
Water resistance is a big plus, but for the other cases i would always keep the soldering gun on table
What if ur wiring isn’t that long tho I had a rodent chew through a wire on my car and one end is a whole wire and the other Ian connected to a part which isn’t the easiest to get to and the wire is literally like a quarter inch what would u recommend
I was a little skeptical as how these would work, but for the price I’ll stick with the old method of soldering and sealing.
Too expensive. Would rather take the time to hand solder and cover with self adhesive heat shrink tubing. The man hours alone are less expensive than the cost of these.
nl.aliexpress.com/item/40Pcs-4-Sizes-Solder-Sleeve-Heat-Shrink-Tube-Wire-Terminal-Connectors-Waterproof-July-Dropship/32884705268.html?spm=a2g0z.10010108.1000016.1.7d7f3469sirRaj&isOrigTitle=true
Thats better. but still, $7 US for 40 pieces from china on the slow boat instead of a roll of heatshrink and some extra time and care.
Yes, it is cheaper on Amazon, about $0.15/pc. Like this one: www.amazon.com/dp/B07H28DFYN
To each their own 👌
@@sergeantseven4240 try amazon, fast free shipping can get them for under 20cents a piece which is less than the good heatshrink with adhesive in it an theyre faster and easier especially when fixxing a broken wire thats tucked up in your dash or on the fuel tank somewhere tight
New product? We used these splices back in the early 80’s on fighter aircraft.
If you are splicing a wire into an existing wire, can you connect 2 ends on one side and one on another? How would you use one of these with 3 wire ends?
What kind of temps does this connector hold up to my worry is the low temp solder getting hot enough to come apart somewhere like in an engine bay.
took your advice...they work GREAT🥳🥳❗
How do we can use this in hot environment?
Mixa Art it’s my question too.
For example under car hood
@@adelabbasi9360 darn thats true! I did not think of that. well ima be using it on my car, so ill let yall know how that goes.
I'm about to make the switch; are they sturdy and reliable?
these are everywhere, be the first to make them in a T or more likely a Y configuration and ill pay a dollar a piece.. currently no good connector sold for splicing into a line and some places like under a up in behind a dash panel you just cant strip wrap solder and tape a connection
Badass, this gets 5 out of 5 Ichiban Motor stickers! :D
Probably the millionth one to ask this but what is that low temperature solder made of? Does it compromise performance? My understanding of low temperature metals is that they are not so skookum!
During last survey, yacht surveyor pointed out and explained that soldered wire connections were not permitted in the Marine Industry. Are these ??
Wouldn't the glue and shrink tubing count as a mechanical connection? It's not bare solder.
Probably not. The reason why they are not permitted is because soldered joints crack when exposed to vibrations. Mechanical connections are much more elastic and doesn't have issues with this.
No.
Sorry gentlemen this is not new technology technology is been since the early 90s it is a fantastic product
Why isn't there a link to the product? I was at Summit & couldn't find this.
Hi Studio A Design, It appears that there is a link in the description: www.summitracing.com/search/product-line/dx-engineering-heat-shrink-self-solder-wire-splice-connectors
Cool product can you hang so weight from it and test it against other types of connections please
Can this be use under water. I have 12 volt led light in pool need to be repair. thank you
People have tried them and taken it apart after, its a cold joint, doesn't actually wick through the wires more as melt on the surface.
It's really the worst of both worlds, they are expensive, and only popular due to making it look easy, just as everyone else said imagine doing this in a tight spot where you would want a solid connection.