Это видео недоступно.
Сожалеем об этом.
The Secrets Behind Matt Risinger's Personal Build
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 17 авг 2024
- buildshownetwo...
Build Show Network Architect - Steve Baczek, pulls out the plans from Matt's remodel and discusses how to overcome challenges that arise when taking on a remodel.
Thermal breaks and air leakage are just two of the many challenges Steve points out.
How do we solve these problems? First, we need to consider prioritizing our challenges.
Steve talks about a set of rules that allow you to make appropriate decisions.
Steve's four priorities in this case revolve around the control layers (water, air, vapor, thermal). These problems he's encountered indicate a lack of control in the building. Let's think about this: Why do we even build a building to begin with? To be on the inside, right? But one of the problems with these older builds is that there's less control.
When he's done, you'll get a fully marked up set of plans full of solutions to the many challenges that he started with. Most importantly, he'll have continuity throughout the home because "Continuity is the Key."
This is an education-packed session you're not going to want to miss.
As a geriatric architecturl draftsman I Really appreciate Steve's videos. Thanks Matt for including him in your series.
We need more. Great video! Continue please.
There’s way more at buildshownetwork.com - Steve has a new video every Friday, and it’s brand new stuff, the content that lives here is over 90 days old.
Looking forward to the continuation of this video.
See the description.
Professor Steve,
Just gotta say...Love these details! Thx for make the full video available on the link. Brilliant details on the slab edges. I can't wait to build our NC home, it'll be my first home without a basement.
Cheers,
Eric
I love your videos. I wish you were my architect during my major house renovation. Just a few comments.
As to your 1) water, 2)air, 3) vapor, 4) thermal priorities. I totally agree on your discussion about the importance of water control, and that thermal is an economic discussion. Although in recent codes, energy efficiency has taking priority.
But I would argue that a mediocre air tightness house can also be made long lasting, at the cost of energy. For example take a blower door 7ACH@50PA house in Matt’s Austin ,Texas, where the climate is mostly cooling. Now take a supply air fan with HEPA filter and overpressures the house with a net inward flow of 0.5 ACH, and no exhaust port. (The air has to leak out the cracks.). The external air is filtered, the house leaks to the outside, so no bad air is coming inside. The penalty is the energy to cool the air and remove the moisture.
Also, (in my opinion - and Im not a professional in the building industry), when an old timer says a building need to breath - isn’t he really saying - you will never eliminate water from getting into places you don’t want, and air flow is what saves you from mold/rot, as it will take the water out through vapor. In essence, they are agreeing with you. That water removal is more important than air tightness. Just a thought.
Again thanks for the detailed descriptions.
Thank you Richard, yes - when I have o cram 30 yrs experience into as many minutes, explanations get generalized.I don't think buildings have to breath, but I do agree wih you....my vapor profile is usually based on how it can help me, not hurt me. I solve the problem with airtightness and insulation, I solve drying with vapor control....hopefully clears up a little
This is an outstanding explanation. Very well presented - more of this guy.
Regarding information from the continuation of this video: 1.5 inches of floor sheathing on top of 1.5 inches of polyiso. You mentioned that there would be very very little moisture transfer through the polyiso (when talking about the wall details), so I imagine the same is true of moisture transfer from the slab through the floor. But, my question is this: What is the effect of a spill on the floor? It gets onto the sheathing and is trapped? Is this a problem? Is there a way to mitigate the water on the floor sheathing? Great information! Hopefully someone can answer this question. RUclips can be a great community and I thank anyone for the time they spend contributing to it.
Saileahgaz I imagine if you don’t seal the concrete then the moisture can disperse through it.
@@rossmcleod7983 Thanks for the response!
That’s a really great question. From what I can tell, the most simple solution is to use a permeable insulation instead of impermeable under the floor sheathing.
Obviously if he used an impermeable one like you were mentioning-that’s an interesting situation.
Anatomy of a perfect wall... this is exactly what I was looking for!
Steve, thanks for the explanation!
What I'd really like to see is how Matt's home is stacking up to the PHIUS requirements. As someone who has worked on Passive House projects before you must have a very good insight into this, and Matt has hinted that he may be trying for certification. Thanks!
I so appreciate the video and details. This is golden people!
Good, simple explanation of building science concept to show to clients... and some builders and subs
Awesome content, very informative. Keep up the awesome work!
Really good.
wow guys ... very impressive .... great job on this
Steve, you blew my mind with this amazing video! I'm about to start construction and I'll be adopting a few applications that i've learned from you and @Matt Risinger...Zip 1.5 method , 1/3 wood furring as well as adding the Zip R. Due to budget Poly and rockwool under consideration....not sure....need some discounts...lol. In all seriousness, I want to thank you for the educational videos. Thank You!
Hey man anytime - "Together we can make a difference
Thank you for all this great information
Great video. Good explanation and presentation!
Other than the fact that Steve is great, the best part of this video is that he is left-handed (speaking as a left-hander) -LumberJohn
About water: In Danish we talk about the 3 V's:
Vis vand væk. Lossly translated to Show water a way.
If I might add: control layers can be assessed into firstly, passive then active energy-efficient design.
Contemplate;
1. Life cycle of the building materials.
2. Reducing the carbon footprint.
3. Meeting or exceeding standard or code.
🍰🌏
Where’s the rest of the video? I was hooked and ready to go through the improvements but it just stopped.
Link is in the description. It would have been nice had they mentioned that.
Everyone says houses need to breath….as an electrician here in Montreal we finish a new super hospital (CHUM) and that building is HEPA standard airtight. From the walls to the windows and so on. That building is designed to last well past 100yrs. Why so tight? Two simple reason, control or the air for health reasons for the patients and Durability.
If everyone is working hard to make hospitals and schools super air tight and control those environments why in the world would you not want that capability in your house if you could?
TOTALLY AGREE
Looking forward to Part 2
See the description.
Rats! This video ended just when it was getting good!
Rest of the video is on the website. Link is in the description.
Jesse H they should mention that at the end. I started part 2 and it begins further on with a window talk
Keep it coming! Great stuff. Some might call it basic!
Hi Steve -- Huge thanks for all the instructive content. I have a question about the wall design and continuity. Instead of installing the 2x Block, would it not make sense to continue the ext 2" rigid insulation all the way down below grade to the footing? I know this is a remodel, so that might be cost/structurally prohibitive. In your video on insulating slab and foundation, you show 2" foam board on the outside of the foundation wall to protect it during the back fill. Does that foam board stop at grade level leaving a section of exposed foundation, or does it tie into the exterior layer of rigid insulation on the outside of the framed walls. I'm sure you cover this somewhere in a video. You're the man! Thanks - Stevenson (Fairview Design/Construction)
You would need to introduce a solid break (metal or wood) to keep insects and rodents from migrating thru the foam without being seen
What's your typical spec for the 'mesh screen' at the bottom of your siding air gap? They breed the ants pretty tough down here in South Carolina...
Curious as to what the detail for a new constrction roof might be as oppsed to a remodel situation. Also if asphalt shingles are to be used rather than raised seam metal the "roof rainscreen" makes no sense in my mind.
Hi Steve. This video series is absolutely great however these details are for high end homes. Could you do a similar analysis for lower to medium spec homes that still want to achieve good performance?
Would like to know if it might be a good idea to put an extra layer of house wrap just behind the siding. Seems like it would be an extra jacket for the house at a small cost
Not a problem I just don't see a need. The pressure drop in the airspace is such that water doesn't get forced into a hole
I'd like to have a beer or two with Steve.
I don't typically drink - but I can still talk for hours
Here is the full video....
buildshownetwork.com/blogs/solving-remodel-challenges-an-architects-perspective
Thank you
11:34 (pause) Hello, why not bring down a few inches the whole system of the exterior wall to bring the "2" foil faced polyisocyanurate rigid insulation" over the "Bottom plate" of the interior wall... I only see the "zip sheating" as a thermal bridge break... Maybe, I love to see a oder 2" of isolation above this area... Hehehe north french Canadian eyes Hehe 😉🌱
Just go to the website in the description to watch the end.
Steve, what software do you use to do your designs/drawings? I am a retired O&G mechanical designer and love "playing" with building ideas and want to buys some software to design with.
Autocad, and sketch up for 3d, Lumion for rendering
@@stevenbaczekarchitect9431 Thank you Steve - love the shows!!!
Where does this video resume??
No comment section on the website videos? I want to know why 6” of roof insulation has issues that 4” doesn’t. What is the trouble with thicker insulation?
*building secrets* ... making it better...
i followed the link, but it keeps telling me that the media cant be shown as the format on the website is not supported
Are you guys making a downloadable app for build show network???
Is this the part where we have to go sign up on the website and pay for access like finehomebuilding?
100% free content!
Commenting just to commen because I think it helps
I'll reply because it supports your comment
😂
Also not sure who your highschool science teacher was. Probably some low income school out in the country. But there’s this THING, called GRAVITY. hot air is lighter than cool air. It’s not as dence or thick or heavy as cooler air because atoms are farther apart in hot making it lighter meaning it rises. Venting out the top of roof
1:05 I think you'd find that is a thermal bridge....
Oh hey, I’m a lefty too!
Love how he explains this, but if these are major issues than lets not blame the builders and lets start blaming the home inspectors, they need to be more strict.
I believe the industry has needs to be solved for
I’m a military Veteran working on my new home design. How can I get Steve to be my architect? I reached out to him through his website. I’m building in Galveston County, Texas.
Maybe if you include your rank, that will get you a more prompt reply since you feel the need to let everyone know you're a Vet..looking for special treatment??
Steven knows his stuff. Just wish he and Matt would stop using foam and use more health-friendly insulation. What's the point of a tight home if you're entombing yourself inside an off-gassing foam coccoon? My order of importance is 1) a healthy home 2) a nice-looking home. 3) a home that keeps water/air/heat/cold under control. If you don't value a healthy home above all else, you really shouldn't be an architect/builder.
ArthurDentZaphodBeeb HRV/ERV should handle the off gassing I imagine, but for my money - go hempcrete.
@@rossmcleod7983 I hate the idea of relying on mechanical systems to provide 'healthy' air quality. For comfort/thermal, fine. But not to deliver healthy air - because when (not if) the mechanicals fail/don't work properly, you don't want to be exposed to off-gassing chems (formaldehydes etc) simply because you've made bad material choices.
In the relatively mild climate where Matt is building, the extra cost and embodied energy of all this extra material and labor will never be recovered. Might make sense in Boston, but not in Austin.
If you would define “mild climate” then your comment might be more valid.
In the case of Austin, where heat and humidity are prevalent most of the year, this build model makes perfect sense. The primary thing to remember is that the main difference (note my wording) is insulation quantity. Matt isn’t going for R50 walls and R60-70 roofs, he is shooting for a continuous R23-30 throughout, which makes perfect sense in his “mild” climate.
@@alanr745 Austin has relatively hot, humid summers, and very mild winters, which is similar to the area where I live in Australia. In those conditions, the savings will not go close to covering the extra costs. It's not even close - I've done the numbers for my own new build.
This is a vanity project (which is not necessarily a bad thing), but we should not pretend there is environmental or financial justification for the Passivhaus/almost Passivhaus approach in a mild climate.
Use hemp ? Simple
James Bond I can’t uptick that comment enough!
"Air is pretty stupid" as it doesnt listen to the commands of men.
🤗🏚 to 🏠 to 🏰
Solution
Build a 1 million dollar house.
You are wrong on so many levels it is embarrassing. Just one example. nearly EVERY GC who knows what they are doing will put three heavy beads of caulk under their exterior wall plates and seal any open cracks in the concrete. I can guarantee that NO air is getting through under the bottom plates on any house that I have framed. In addition to these three beads of caulk under the plates, most GCs put a 4th bead of caulk around the inside perimeter of the interior joint where the bottom plate meets the concrete. They do this primarily to keep pests out, not for insulation purposes.
Several of your assumptions are theoretical and they do not reflect what is done out in the field, and yes, I am a licensed GC.
DAMN YOUR JEALOUS. HE SEALS HIS OUTSIDE WALLS TO THE FOUNDATION FOR ALL HIS CLIENTS. Damn glad to know your face. You’ll never build my fucking house in the next few years. You’ll probably be dead by then. Lolol. And criticizing a 70’s house remodel compared to his new builds is very shady of you.