You are a magnificent teacher, and I can't thank you and Risinger enough for taking YOUR time to teach all of us. The continued detailed explanations of all these flashing procedures, air and water management, the introduction to all the great products you use. It's giving me so much knowledge to walk into any repair or new install situation with complete confidence. It's sad and aggravating to see hundreds of very expensive homes being built in Fargo with no care given to windows or doors. Housewrap over sheathing, xcut, fold in, slap window in, cheap tape top and sides, OFTEN BOTTOM TOO, then siding goes on! House after house from one of the longest running and most popular home builders. I want to put them on blast real bad. One of my buddies just had them build his place last year, I built his deck just recently. There was already slight water damage to OSB under the sliding door from open bottom corners. Pathetic. Rant over. Thanks again to everyone on the Build Show team, you are making a huge difference to many!
Not only are you a talented architect, you are a gift teacher as well! Thank you for taking time out of your busy day to explain the building control layers in language even a novice like me can understand. Wish I knew how to find an architect like you in my area to help us with our 1960s remodel - someone with Steve Baczek seal of approval.
Steve, my compliments on a clear and concise explanation that will stand the test of time. The advantages of you tube to educate the masses from clients to trades and more importantly your peers.
Steve, you are a powerhouse. I can't say enough how much I appreciate an architect who speaks in plain English and in pragmatic terms. Most architects I have come across like to talk in poetic, mystical and exaggerated terms about 'light' and what various spaces 'make them feel', and I just can't help but think it is all high-speak that is meant to distract from the fact that they are almost a superfluous component to the construction process in those cases.
only thing i can say steve is more videos like every other day and perhaps these concepts can get to the masses thank you awesome stuff stay safe.peace
Hey Matt, When Professor Steve arrives, he needs a better desk setup with a green screen behind him to hide the boxes... Ha-ha-ha! ... yes... "Continuity is the Key" Great collaboration men! Cheers Eric
Exactly the knowledge I was looking for. Thanks Steve. -- Oh, and if any of you details have caveats pertaining to cool and rainy climates like Seattle, I'd be happy to hear them. Keep up the valuable content!
Great Job on the explanations The backer hold is Code in Canada; however, the spray in the foam is done in almost all cases. The foam is usually a hybrid between open and closed-cell product, so does is allow moisture or vapour to flow. I like the slope sill with a back dam sort of belt and suspenders. Window flashing a small end dam would help.
Steve, "Continuity is the Key!" ✔💯checking out as many of your videos as possible during these cold💨 Atlantic Canada Winter🇨🇦❄ days and Wow! I am thrilled to have followed through to understand more about who you are and your teachings around Building Science applications and practices! An extension here is being planned, and now in Atlantic Canada the National Building Code is being more strongly enforced which means even out here in the country a building permit has to be attained. So plans are needed and your teachings are AMAZING! Matt Risinger's channel in exterior insulation and window and door installment, and now you Top Up with more clarity adding to the richness of why things need to get done the way they do: continuity is the Key. This and the previous presentation, Part 1, are So So important to help me. I need your help in communicating wisely with any of the trades I will be hiring. As a female being the client and acting contractor I am against a lot of male perception that females probably do not know what they are talking about when it comes to building science. Steve, you are giving me the "armour" I need to stay focused, determined and smart in the preparation of this build. Your work is a gift that keeps on giving! For years your video's will be viewed and your teachings will be carried forward for generations. I have bookmarked this in my list of "Keepers" to refer back when I need to "show" the male minds in the construction landscape about why your way is the way to follow. I hope you realized how Important your work is to us all...⭐Outstanding!👍💯🍁😲🇨🇦
Hi Steve. You’ve got the best job I could think of. And I say this as another architect with about the same years experience. Questions/comments: 1- If given the freedom to choose, would you prefer Zip-R or standard Zip sheathing + foil faced polyiso? To me the Zip-R simplifies things considerably. 2- The head detail in this video concerns me a little the way you wrap the adhered flashing from the outside face of the foil back into the rough opening. If you ever get water behind the exterior board insulation, it’s trapped - violating the key principle. If I remember correctly Matt made up some fairly complex brake formed sheet metal and executed this differently on his build. I suppose big overhangs would help mitigate any worries.. 3- For your jamb detail, do the installers have to plow out the back side of the rain screen furring that sits behind the 5/4 exterior casing? Between the window’s nail fin, the fasteners and adhered flashing it seems like the combined thickness would push this furring out of alignment with the rest. 4- do you have a formula for the amount of “makeup” ventilation at the top of cladding rain screen? Thanks for reading my comments.
Thank you Scott!! your kind words are very much appreciated. I LOVE my job!! As for your question, I have done both ways a few times, my preference is the Zip R. Lastly, please feel free to contact me anytime you need a little collaboration. Be safe
Hi Steve its a great video very well exlained i was wondering if you had a video like this but when using stone as a wall covering instead of siding ? Thanks in advance
Great details. Do you have any innovative building envelope ideas/details for the transition at the rim joist/top of fnd wall? Where the lap siding ends & the plaster/stucco/parching begins & terminates below the grade? Just asking.
Great job Steve. Truly excellent 'in the weeds' explanation that is so rare to find - anywhere. I'm not a fan of spray foam around the windows. Seen times where the so-called 'non expanding' foam expands and the jambs get bowed (even 1/16th is too much and only shows when the trim and paint guys do their thing). And I'm not sure foam is a long term air dam - some of it shrinks and loses adhesion. I like Christine Williamson's detail using backer rod and sealant.
Expanding foam insulation is used around windows and doors in Europe all the time, because their frames are reinforced with steel so they do not bend. Unfortunately, North American made windows are several centuries behind the times in strength and U values, so yes, expanding type foams are a bad idea. Better solution is foam backer rod and sealant (caulking) - two rows; one on the front of the frame (except at the bottom frame), and one at the back of the frame.
@@apscoradiales US windows are not: "several centuries behind the times"; they just have different objectives from european windows. one of the drawbacks of european windows is that the thicker frames and sashes reduces the available glass area. this reduces the amount of light that gets admitted into the building envelope. US windows seek to maximize glass area for greater light transmission.
Christine's detail is certainly favorable by me!! Typically on my projects the insulator air seals the window RO so I have good control on what we are using
@@stevenbaczekarchitect9431 i agree that you can compensate by using a bigger window with a larger rough opening, although that is probably not really a practical option for a renovation.
I love all this info. It is great and not over whelming as much as some on here. I wish I could get someone to go over my house plans and make suggestions for my build like this. I have seen where they recommend a 2/3 outside to 1/3 inside insulation ratio to keep moisture condensation from ruining the osb/stud lumber. Does this still apply? in the drawing from what I saw it was almost 50/50. Thanks.
Great video as always! I have a question about the head detail. How come you have the stretch tape wrap up over the buck and then extend up on that plane outboard of the exterior insulation? Wouldn't it make more sense for that to wrap back around the top side of the buck, under the insulation and tie into the zip sheathing above the window? They way it's drawn now it looks like you have a potential to trap water at the upper buck if any water gets behind the insulation. Probably not a concern on second story windows where the roof overhang is so close but seems like a concern on 1st floor in a 2 floor wall. Thanks again for great content!
Based on my experience and current best practice, I believe this is a potentially damaging omission on the part of Matt & Steve. You are quite correct (IMNSHO) in calling this out, and proposing your alternative. I firmly believe that while the finish wall cladding may be the GROSS water barrier, the TRUE absolute line of defense re: water intrusion is actually the membrane over the sheathing, or the Zip plus tapes (per choice). Because of extreme potential liability issues, I take a VERY rigorous approach to that membrane (ie 100% liquid applied, seal the outie bucks within the building envelope). We do a long-duration full pressure hose test on selected areas (like on and above a designated window unit) after the liquid applied and windows are set, to verify total protection from water intrusion.
no, there is nothing wrong with this detail, and it looks proper to me. you will notice that baczek said that you must always avoid creating vapor sandwich in your wall assembly. the reason why you don't want to do that is the reality that it is possible for some small amount of moisture to find its way into the wall assembly. for that small amount of moisture, you provide a path for that moisture to get out of the wall. since this house is in texASS, you want that path out of the wall to go to the interior. your scenario assumes that the top of the wall detailing, or that the sealing between horizontal seams in the zip sheathing panels (neither of which is shown in this video), has failed. it is not unreasonable to consider that as a possibility, but that is one reason why you don't want to create a vapor sandwich in the wall system.
Another fantastic video Steve! I noticed in your details that technically the window is not installed in-line with the air & water barrier (Zip). I believe Matt seals the flange to the bucks and with flashing tape that extends over the rigid insulation. Is the stretch tape a method to essentially maintain continuity from the plane of the WRB to the window flange? I had a conversation about this with my Siga rep and we seem to have differing thoughts.
I’m love the ideas that both you and the build show put on, on building a tight home and being able to control air coming in at your terms. But there are few issues no one has address 1) is kitchen venting what to do, 2) is bathroom venting, 3 dryer venting in a laundry room, and 4) is fireplaces I intend and wish some discussion on these areas. I just started watching this channel and like the other really enjoy it and learning a lot on my own build thank you
Bathroom venting: ERV with boost. Dryer venting: use ventless condensing dryer or see kitchen solution. Kitchen: lowest effective CFM, and provide make up air. Fireplace: best solution is to omit. 🤷♂️ They make some pretty convincing fake fireplaces 😉
My energy efficient homes are typically all electric, in this case the kitchen vent is solely odor control so it can be severly minimized. Bathroom venting is controlled thru our ventilation system, dryers are usually heat pump or condensing, fireplaces are always a problem - easiest to provide make up air
Do you start from scratch on each project making these details? If not, how many different "standard" details do you have and how do you decide the best options to apply each? Is it all driven by the sheathing selected, stud sizes, and external insulation?
As an architect, let me tell you we have a whole bunch of standard details that we tend and like to use over and over - saves us lots of time preparing the drawings - time is money, but every job is different, so some are one-off, custom details. Yes, sometimes it's the insulation that dictates some things, sometimes, it's the type of air barrier that dictates, sometimes it's the vapour barrier, and many times it's the building code that dictates things.
@@stevenbaczekarchitect9431 Steve, look forward 💯to that presentation when you get around to it. cheers from Atlantic Canada,🇨🇦 land of the great white north ... Eh!💨❄☃
I use foam all the time. BUT, i ran across a problem in a apartment that had a water damage in a ski location here in Norway. The window was installed on topp of the foundation were the foundation was stepped down and transited to a wood wall, because half of the floor was under ground, and the front was ground level. (Hill). They had chimmed the window up and used foam and flashings to seal, there was no vapor barrier witch is a eternal discussion in cellars here in Norway. (I say use em where the cellar is over ground, and not where it is under). There was a tiny air leacage in the foam, and combined with the electric heater mounted under the window, the hot air condensed and damaged the floor in the room. This is probably not the most common problem in southern US tough. 😂
What about the use of brick instead of siding? In that case would you still use the 2” out-sulation foam board behind the brick? The exterior wall would be almost 12” wide, no?
I've drawn this similar detail and yes with the code required min 1" air gap behind a full brick veneer wall you end up with 12" thick wall. The brick will require typical tie backs thru the insulation to the zip sheathing so not sure the same insulation board would work as well. I detailed it with rock wool comfort board and did not do the same flex tape over top of board face because of that. May be a better solution though.
@@dvwake If the cavity exceeds 4", you may have to use engineered ties - note, I'm talking about cavity, not air space. Cavity is a distance between the back of the brick, and the face of studs to which the ties are attached. NEVER attach brick ties to sheathing, be that OSB, plywood or ZIP sheathing - always attach the brick ties to studs and to brick. Sheathing is not a structural element, studs are. Use 1" min. air space, and make damn sure the air space does not get filled with mortar or other droppings. Make sure the air space is vented at bottom and at the top of the wall, so that you get proper cross-ventilation. Ventilation is key to keeping thing dry!
Hello Steve! You have "Air Barrier Membrane" called out in your detail. What would be the specified product in this instance? Or is the dashed line indicating the location of the "air barrier" line to trace through the details, not necessarily indicating a material? Or is the dashed line the tape of the zip sheathing, sealing everything up? Thank you for all the good work...so helpful to the learning :)
this might be a stupid question. I know that i have seen a lot of Matts video where there are using the zip -r sheathing. Is this a case where the sheating and the insualtion are separate pieces? regardless this is a pretty good deal of information being given out. gotta say i definitely learned something
Looking at the head detail Steve, your flexible adhered flashing should actually go back to the air barrier, and be installed in a shingle-like fashion (under the air barrier membrane). But, even before this adhered flashing is placed, the aluminium or metal drip flashing should go in first over the sheathing, then adhered flashing, then the air barrier - all installed in a shingle-like fashion to allow water, if it gets behind insulation which it can (think of thermal expansion and contraction of the wood frame/sheathing coefficient vs, the insulation coefficient) to drain to the exterior. I would also put two lines of sealant around the window frame - one close to inside face of the frame, the other near the exterior face of the frame. One bead of sealant is as good as none if you have a sloppy contractor. We also put two beads of sealant on top of the foundation wall before the wood plate is bolted to it. Question - is the ZIP sheathing ok as a structural sheathing (like plywood or normal OSB) in your neck-of-the-woods?
your suggestion for attaching the head flashing to the sheathing creates a thermal bridge back to the sheathing while providing no additional benefit in shedding bulk water, which is going to flow in the air gap. polyisocyanurate insulation is sufficiently rigid that you can install the head flashing to the rigid insulation and tape over it. if he were using a non-rigid insulation, such as rockwool comfortboard, your suggestion would have merit. you raise a good point about the thermal coefficient of expansion, which is higher for polyisocyanurate than it is for the other types of exterior insulation that are commonly used. in the first instance, the gaps would tend to open up in cold weather. in the second instance, wind driven rain is probably not going to be able to drive all the way through the cladding, across the air gap and into the gaps in between insulation panels. so you wouldn't be seeing bulk water getting behind the insulation. the purpose of the head flashing is the shed bulk water. to deal with water that gets behind the insulation through capillary action, you are going to want a drying path through the wall assembly. baczek mentioned that you never want to create a vapor sandwich in your wall assembly. this is an example of one reason why you want to make sure that you don't create a vapor sandwich. the purpose for the sealant at the interior side is to create an air and water barrier. sealant on the exterior can only be applied to the head and jambs. as baczek mentioned in the video, you never apply sealant at the sill on the exterior side of a window.
Thanks for your passion to the building arts. One question though, would it be a good idea to put some bug barrier in under the drip cap at the head to keep the creepy crawlers out?
this is a very good video. here are a few of my comments. the idea of using jamb extensions (or what you refer to as "bucks") is the way to go if you are doing a renovation in which you are using existing rough openings. but in your case, you were doing a new construction. it seems to me that the better way to go would have been to build the rough openings 1.5" larger in each dimension, and then building a window buck that fit inside the rough opening. the depth of the buck would be the depth of the rough opening plus the depth of the insulation. using foam insulation to seal the inside perimeter of a window is a matter of preference that a lot of people do. i personally don't care for the approach, especially when you are using closed cell foam. the reason being that houses move, but closed cell foam is relatively rigid. so the closed cell foam might not be flexible enough to accommodate movement of the building. over time, this can result in voids opening up. those voids seem to always appear first in the worst locations (i.e. in corners). a final comment is that the thermal models show that the thermal performance is better with a midplane ("innie) window installation than with the nailing flange ("outie") window installation that you have shown.
Thanks, very useful. Question- we use alot vinyl siding in our area. But I'm big on exterior foam. Can you change the order of the foam and 1/2 or 3/4 stripping, reverse it and still get the benefit of the foam. Reasoning that way the vinyl siding isn't soft, it has solid backing.?
Fabulous job and thanks so very much for sharing your insight Steve. By the way, I am a fan of the expanding foam. Just please use the right stuff people. We want the windows to open.
Steve, assuming closed cell foam after the window is installed, acting as a final seal for waterproofing? Would there ever be a reason to use open cell?
Like others I question the window head flashing detail. I believe the Zip sheathing is the Water & Air barrier. On that premise I would suggest the window trim flashing be bent over the 2X blocking & up onto the Zip sheathing & taped. Theoretically water is intended to run down the Zip sheathing & should directed out. As you say: "Down & Out". From the Zip wall I don't see the out over the window, good chance of In. I suspect under certain circumstances a water leak may appear over a window or door. Also, wouldn't the current detail: window trim flashed taped to the "outboard insulation" require this insulation to be water tight/vapor open? Admittedly I've not had the opportunity to fully integrate exterior with a bumped out window. Lastly, I've enjoy these educational videos as well as the JLC Live & Fine Homebuilding Summit conference sessions I've attended. Very glad you allow open discussion of ideas & methods. With great respect!
Re your first suggestion - you are correct. Window head flashing should be attached and taped to the Zip sheathing, because it is that sheathing that is the air barrier, UNLESS he's using another membrane over the Zip sheathing to be his air barrier which I do not think he is. Second - jamb flashing should also be fixed or adhered to and sealed to the Zip sheathing, NOT the insulation - insulation may not be fully waterproof, and probably has all kinds of joints that are not waterproofed. Third - at the sill, first layer of window flashing should be placed on top of wood frame, then over the sheathing. Another layer of flashing then goes over the first, and then down the face of insulation for about 6". After that, you put the sealant or foam bead on top of the second layer of flashing, then the window does up. Clear as mud?
the head flashing detail appears proper to me. the head flashing is for the purpose of diverting bulk water; it is not for air sealing. the bulk water is going to run down in the air gap, where it would be captured by the head flashing and diverted. the idea that water can defeat the best laid plans of mice and men is the reason why you don't want to create a vapor sandwich in the wall assembly. so if some small amount of moisture does defeat your best plans, it has a drying path out of the wall assembly. the house is in texASS, so it is OK to put the vapor barrier on the exterior side of the wall assembly. the vapor escape path, in this case, is toward the interior, not the exterior.
On the window seal detail, how will air get out of the drainage plain? I think the cedar piece should be notched in the back to overlap the siding but leave a travel path for air? Kind of like a typical soffit detail where the rainscreen meets the soffit. Thank for the great details though, you show why its important to hire the right people from planning to finishing.
I’m watching this video video at a critical time for future projects. I do have a question if you could reference how these details may be different regarding an ICF wall build and specifically moisture in moisture out, cold breaks at the foundation. Also looking into form a drain as a water channeling system on the footer if you have any thoughts on that product. And thank you for the clear and concise video and detailed elements of both videos I’ve seen.
Saw your post. I’ve built a few ICF houses and used Form-A-Drain (which is fantastic). That drain system takes care of not just water but radon as well. I live in an area that is a ‘hot spot’ for radon. Anyway, I highly recommend it. I could never understand why ICF does not draw more interest with builders. Now, if I were to build another ICF, I would add more insulation on the exterior so the concrete core was isolated as much as possible from the outside (hot/cold). Insulate the slab so it runs into the ICF. My houses were 2 and 3 story (one with an elevator). Used scissor trusses on three (I like vaulted ceilings) with Icynene insulation under the roof deck (enclosed, non-vented attic) and then installed an Ultimate Air System 200DX ERV Recoup Aerator which has an heat recovery efficiency of up to 98% and a cooling recovery efficiency of up to 53%. It just seems that ICF takes out of the equation all of the problems encountered with stick builds: water, air, vapor and thermal. They are incredibly quiet and safe (tornadoes and depending on where you live, can stop bullets - size of ordinance? - according to one of my workers who left to become a policeman). No bugs, no critters. There’s a bit of a learning curve. And yes, while the actual cost of the exterior walls is higher than stick, it’s discounted because of the savings in the HVAC.
@@janice180 Isn't the EPS in the ICF highly flammable? Doesn't your code require that it be covered with something non-flammable such as cement board? I've seen AAC masonry units used with great success in Europe, and as you says it does away with all these issues such as vapour, air barriers, fire proofing, thermal issues. Why is AAC not used more often in USA? There is a plant making AAC units in northern Florida or southern Georgia, I think.
Great content! Question: If you use a 1/4" square shim behind the exterior head casing, and the jamb casings are both 5/4, is the face of the head casing proud of the jamb casing by 1/4", or does the jamb casing "slope" out from bottom to top?
I am studying a lot these window install systems and for flange windows I see many where a window replacement would require breaking into the cladding. Seems odd to me, given that a certain pct of windows fail and that (I think) cladding systems last longer than windows. I think this is what I see in the above system. Am I missing something? By the way - You guys are awesome!
Steve, these details are great! This is a condensed and easy to understand explanation of things I tried to pick up from Matt's other videos across multiple years and multiple videos. Question: On the window, the foam sits back pretty far from the plane of the glass. Is that to allow water to escape? Can it be moved farther out (or made deeper) to be closer to the other thermal surfaces? It's probably not a huge deal in Austin, but might be more important further north.
location of sealant is a function of window frame. some windows (commercial style aluminium type) have little weep holes in the main frame portion through which water can weep out (water gets in between glass and the frame). It is important that the sealant be located in the back, away from the weep holes, but it's also important in some frames to put two lines or layers of sealant - one is as good as none if the contractor is sloppy or has no idea what they're doing. If you're doing residential windows (wood, glass fibre, vinyl), then it's best to talk to the window manufacturer where to locate the sealant so that you don't inadvertnely seal the weep holes or trap water. Another very important key to window location vis-a-vis wall is to make sure your glass lines-up with the insulation below and around the glass . If you don't do that, you will get massive cold bridging.
Do you build your drawings as a 2D file or a 3D file that is rendered at 2D? I would think different section views and an isometric would greatly assist construction.
@@apscoradiales revit but large details like this are typically hybrid between 3d and 2d drafting lines. Steve's details are really nice to read. Not every architect has that craft.
Would it be good or at least not bad to put an extra layer of house wrap just behind the siding most especially if you are using rock wool kind of a shell for the jacket type thing to cut some wind
Curious, your plans call for 2" foil faced polyiso insulation, but I believe Matt went with, and you mentioned in the video, 2" rockwool. Is that a cost savings decision or a different trade off?
Polyiso can be more expensive than mineral fibre, and it also is flamable which the mineral fibre is not. It may be a code issue here as well. Some codes allow styrene, styrofoam or polyiso insulations in buildings, but they also then require that you cover them with a non flamable board like cement board.
Why acoustic sound and draft sealant on jack and king stud but not common studs? Are you only using acoustic sealant since it remains flexible and not for its sound deadening characteristics?
Why no metal flashing above the exterior window head casing trim that extends up behind the hardieboard? Hardieboard installation directions recommends flashing at this location because bulk water running down the face of the siding will run right into the window trim and cause premature degradation. Also some of the water will bounce back and run behind the head trim unnecessarily. Is the exterior window trim a water-impervious material like pvc that will be okay in this scenario?
I don'think the Hardie recommendations for flashing at that point are for the protection of the head casing as that shouldn't have any issue with drying, it's to give the water that gets behind the siding a path down and out before getting to the window. In Steve's plan he has a metal drip cap at the bottom of the air channel, above the window, providing that function. My personal guess is that it would be a waste of money and material to put the Hardie recommended flashing at that point because it would have to be attached to the furring strips which have enough gap between them for the water to easily get behind the flashing.
Steve isn’t it problematic to have a non permeable exterior sheathing like zip ( perm for a well taped detailed zip wall being 1.5 pa or less)esp in cold climate?
Hi there. I see your're details do not show vapour barrier. Are you deep south so that your air barrier is also acting as a vapour barrier? If so, I'm not sure it's in the right place - should it not be in front of the polyiso insulation otherwise your dew point will be in the wrong place. In my neck-of-the-woods (Canada) we do air barrier on the exterior, and vapour barrier on the interior while the insulation is in-between the two. I've also done work in Middle East were they always do the vapour barrier as well as the air barrier on the exterior of the insulation (warm side, since the exterior is warmer than the interior)). We have found out that Bakor torched-on air/vapour barrier works best in that part of the World. Polyethylene vapour barrier works best for us in Canada, and Bakor torched-on air barrier on the outside works best on substrates that won't catch fire or peel-and-stick for substrates can catch fire. Interested to hear what you have to say.
2" of polyisocyanurate insulation *is* a vapor barrier. the house is in texASS, so the vapor barrier location is not going to be the same as it is in canada.
@@apscoradiales i spent some time living in texASS (a mistake that i won't ever repeat again!) but your point is well taken about the weather patterns being different in different parts of the state. but it is still the case that you would want to put the air barrier on the exterior side of the wall assembly in lubbock.
@@paperwait9611 TexASS can be a really nice place....The Hill Country and West Texas are lovely. if it wasn't for the messed-up American health care system, I'b be living there now - screw Ontario and Quebec. I'd just get myself a gun for protection, and bob's your uncle as Newfies would say.
I imagine an architect has a hard time finding a builder to follow through with their plans. I can see a builder just rolling out Zip tape and hand pressing it versus rolling it. And we don't really need that... cover it up by the end of the day.
Not true! Traditionally, architects are artists who design buildings; they don't build. Again, traditionally, it's up to the builder to interpret drawings or written instructions and build accordingly. Unfortunately, builders come in all kinds of different flavours - some cannot tell a nail from a hammer - yes, it can be that bad. Some architects also design things that are next to impossible to build, particularly if you toss in the budget issues.
You are a magnificent teacher, and I can't thank you and Risinger enough for taking YOUR time to teach all of us. The continued detailed explanations of all these flashing procedures, air and water management, the introduction to all the great products you use. It's giving me so much knowledge to walk into any repair or new install situation with complete confidence. It's sad and aggravating to see hundreds of very expensive homes being built in Fargo with no care given to windows or doors. Housewrap over sheathing, xcut, fold in, slap window in, cheap tape top and sides, OFTEN BOTTOM TOO, then siding goes on! House after house from one of the longest running and most popular home builders. I want to put them on blast real bad. One of my buddies just had them build his place last year, I built his deck just recently. There was already slight water damage to OSB under the sliding door from open bottom corners. Pathetic. Rant over. Thanks again to everyone on the Build Show team, you are making a huge difference to many!
Together we can all make a difference
Not only are you a talented architect, you are a gift teacher as well! Thank you for taking time out of your busy day to explain the building control layers in language even a novice like me can understand. Wish I knew how to find an architect like you in my area to help us with our 1960s remodel - someone with Steve Baczek seal of approval.
hank you for the kind words
I agree with others you an amazing teacher and I am starting my home build in WV this year and this knowledge is priceless.
Good Luck on your build - Long Live Our Buildings
Steve, my compliments on a clear and concise explanation that will stand the test of time. The advantages of you tube to educate the masses from clients to trades and more importantly your peers.
Thank you sir
Steve, you are a powerhouse.
I can't say enough how much I appreciate an architect who speaks in plain English and in pragmatic terms.
Most architects I have come across like to talk in poetic, mystical and exaggerated terms about 'light' and what various spaces 'make them feel', and I just can't help but think it is all high-speak that is meant to distract from the fact that they are almost a superfluous component to the construction process in those cases.
Thank you sir, I find poets are usually trying to make up for a lack of knowledge.....jus sayin
Best content from this channel hands down. Thank you for taking the time to do these!
You got it buddy - got alot more to come
Thanks Steve. The early comment about taking time to learn how to assemble the details. Going on 18 years and still learning. Thanks for what you do.
only thing i can say steve is more videos like every other day and perhaps these concepts can get to the masses thank you awesome stuff stay safe.peace
Thank you sir
Hey Matt,
When Professor Steve arrives, he needs a better desk setup with a green screen behind him to hide the boxes... Ha-ha-ha!
... yes... "Continuity is the Key"
Great collaboration men!
Cheers
Eric
Exactly the knowledge I was looking for. Thanks Steve. -- Oh, and if any of you details have caveats pertaining to cool and rainy climates like Seattle, I'd be happy to hear them. Keep up the valuable content!
My pleasure, thank you for joining us
I like the big scale...and the notes...sometimes it takes a couple looks on a complicated drawing to see what there looking for...good video
I'm into this going on 30 years and still learning, don't feel left behind, here is alot of stuff there
Continuity is the key! Thanks Steve! Good stuff here!
Hey Buddy!!! Hope all is well, nice to see you around
Thanks Steve, you are as master explainer.
Thank you for joining
I think it’s amazing to that you draw and explain actual details for us
Together we can all make a difference
I really do appreciate how you explained everything in detail, love building science and enjoy the build show network.
the way Joe and Steve can explain complicated science in plain English is a huge blessing
I learned from the very best, Joe is truly a master, I'm just trying to get thru the day
Really informational! Thank you
You got it, thanks fo joining
LOVE your attitude. More please!
Together we can make a difference
Best one so far.
Dave, I’m a fan of yours. Where have you been? Hope all is well.
Thank you sir
wow, time to watch the rest! thanks heaps.
Welcome bud
Great Job on the explanations
The backer hold is Code in Canada; however, the spray in the foam is done in almost all cases. The foam is usually a hybrid between open and closed-cell product, so does is allow moisture or vapour to flow. I like the slope sill with a back dam sort of belt and suspenders.
Window flashing a small end dam would help.
Great video, very detailed. Thank you for sharing your knowledge
Steve, "Continuity is the Key!" ✔💯checking out as many of your videos as possible during these cold💨 Atlantic Canada Winter🇨🇦❄ days and Wow! I am thrilled to have followed through to understand more about who you are and your teachings around Building Science applications and practices! An extension here is being planned, and now in Atlantic Canada the National Building Code is being more strongly enforced which means even out here in the country a building permit has to be attained. So plans are needed and your teachings are AMAZING! Matt Risinger's channel in exterior insulation and window and door installment, and now you Top Up with more clarity adding to the richness of why things need to get done the way they do: continuity is the Key. This and the previous presentation, Part 1, are So So important to help me. I need your help in communicating wisely with any of the trades I will be hiring. As a female being the client and acting contractor I am against a lot of male perception that females probably do not know what they are talking about when it comes to building science. Steve, you are giving me the "armour" I need to stay focused, determined and smart in the preparation of this build. Your work is a gift that keeps on giving! For years your video's will be viewed and your teachings will be carried forward for generations. I have bookmarked this in my list of "Keepers" to refer back when I need to "show" the male minds in the construction landscape about why your way is the way to follow. I hope you realized how Important your work is to us all...⭐Outstanding!👍💯🍁😲🇨🇦
I sure would like to see your detail of the sealed/added soffit on Matts House.
Extremely informative! thanks!
Welcome
Hi Steve. You’ve got the best job I could think of. And I say this as another architect with about the same years experience. Questions/comments:
1- If given the freedom to choose, would you prefer Zip-R or standard Zip sheathing + foil faced polyiso? To me the Zip-R simplifies things considerably.
2- The head detail in this video concerns me a little the way you wrap the adhered flashing from the outside face of the foil back into the rough opening. If you ever get water behind the exterior board insulation, it’s trapped - violating the key principle. If I remember correctly Matt made up some fairly complex brake formed sheet metal and executed this differently on his build. I suppose big overhangs would help mitigate any worries..
3- For your jamb detail, do the installers have to plow out the back side of the rain screen furring that sits behind the 5/4 exterior casing? Between the window’s nail fin, the fasteners and adhered flashing it seems like the combined thickness would push this furring out of alignment with the rest.
4- do you have a formula for the amount of “makeup” ventilation at the top of cladding rain screen?
Thanks for reading my comments.
Thank you Scott!! your kind words are very much appreciated. I LOVE my job!! As for your question, I have done both ways a few times, my preference is the Zip R. Lastly, please feel free to contact me anytime you need a little collaboration. Be safe
Keep the great information coming. Great details.
Will do, thanks for joining
Hi Steve its a great video very well exlained i was wondering if you had a video like this but when using stone as a wall covering instead of siding ?
Thanks in advance
Full video! Awesome!
Thanks for joining
Great details. Do you have any innovative building envelope ideas/details for the transition at the rim joist/top of fnd wall? Where the lap siding ends & the plaster/stucco/parching begins & terminates below the grade? Just asking.
Great job Steve. Truly excellent 'in the weeds' explanation that is so rare to find - anywhere. I'm not a fan of spray foam around the windows. Seen times where the so-called 'non expanding' foam expands and the jambs get bowed (even 1/16th is too much and only shows when the trim and paint guys do their thing). And I'm not sure foam is a long term air dam - some of it shrinks and loses adhesion. I like Christine Williamson's detail using backer rod and sealant.
Expanding foam insulation is used around windows and doors in Europe all the time, because their frames are reinforced with steel so they do not bend.
Unfortunately, North American made windows are several centuries behind the times in strength and U values, so yes, expanding type foams are a bad idea.
Better solution is foam backer rod and sealant (caulking) - two rows; one on the front of the frame (except at the bottom frame), and one at the back of the frame.
@@apscoradiales US windows are not: "several centuries behind the times"; they just have different objectives from european windows. one of the drawbacks of european windows is that the thicker frames and sashes reduces the available glass area. this reduces the amount of light that gets admitted into the building envelope. US windows seek to maximize glass area for greater light transmission.
Christine's detail is certainly favorable by me!! Typically on my projects the insulator air seals the window RO so I have good control on what we are using
@@paperwait9611 yes but, European window manufacturer's will make much larger IGU's so you can get bigger windows
@@stevenbaczekarchitect9431 i agree that you can compensate by using a bigger window with a larger rough opening, although that is probably not really a practical option for a renovation.
I love all this info. It is great and not over whelming as much as some on here. I wish I could get someone to go over my house plans and make suggestions for my build like this. I have seen where they recommend a 2/3 outside to 1/3 inside insulation ratio to keep moisture condensation from ruining the osb/stud lumber. Does this still apply? in the drawing from what I saw it was almost 50/50. Thanks.
Great video as always! I have a question about the head detail. How come you have the stretch tape wrap up over the buck and then extend up on that plane outboard of the exterior insulation? Wouldn't it make more sense for that to wrap back around the top side of the buck, under the insulation and tie into the zip sheathing above the window? They way it's drawn now it looks like you have a potential to trap water at the upper buck if any water gets behind the insulation. Probably not a concern on second story windows where the roof overhang is so close but seems like a concern on 1st floor in a 2 floor wall. Thanks again for great content!
In a previous video Matt tested the ability for water to drain behind the insulation, so I know that's something he was making sure could happen.
Based on my experience and current best practice, I believe this is a potentially damaging omission on the part of Matt & Steve. You are quite correct (IMNSHO) in calling this out, and proposing your alternative. I firmly believe that while the finish wall cladding may be the GROSS water barrier, the TRUE absolute line of defense re: water intrusion is actually the membrane over the sheathing, or the Zip plus tapes (per choice). Because of extreme potential liability issues, I take a VERY rigorous approach to that membrane (ie 100% liquid applied, seal the outie bucks within the building envelope). We do a long-duration full pressure hose test on selected areas (like on and above a designated window unit) after the liquid applied and windows are set, to verify total protection from water intrusion.
no, there is nothing wrong with this detail, and it looks proper to me. you will notice that baczek said that you must always avoid creating vapor sandwich in your wall assembly. the reason why you don't want to do that is the reality that it is possible for some small amount of moisture to find its way into the wall assembly. for that small amount of moisture, you provide a path for that moisture to get out of the wall. since this house is in texASS, you want that path out of the wall to go to the interior. your scenario assumes that the top of the wall detailing, or that the sealing between horizontal seams in the zip sheathing panels (neither of which is shown in this video), has failed. it is not unreasonable to consider that as a possibility, but that is one reason why you don't want to create a vapor sandwich in the wall system.
Steve, excellent lesson. Please consider introducing yourself at the beginning of each video with a catchy phrase that links you to Matt.
Thank you
Another fantastic video Steve! I noticed in your details that technically the window is not installed in-line with the air & water barrier (Zip). I believe Matt seals the flange to the bucks and with flashing tape that extends over the rigid insulation. Is the stretch tape a method to essentially maintain continuity from the plane of the WRB to the window flange? I had a conversation about this with my Siga rep and we seem to have differing thoughts.
No right or wrong, you just need to be on board with your intent
I’m love the ideas that both you and the build show put on, on building a tight home and being able to control air coming in at your terms.
But there are few issues no one has address 1) is kitchen venting what to do, 2) is bathroom venting, 3 dryer venting in a laundry room, and 4) is fireplaces I intend and wish some discussion on these areas.
I just started watching this channel and like the other really enjoy it and learning a lot on my own build thank you
Bathroom venting: ERV with boost.
Dryer venting: use ventless condensing dryer or see kitchen solution.
Kitchen: lowest effective CFM, and provide make up air.
Fireplace: best solution is to omit. 🤷♂️ They make some pretty convincing fake fireplaces 😉
My energy efficient homes are typically all electric, in this case the kitchen vent is solely odor control so it can be severly minimized. Bathroom venting is controlled thru our ventilation system, dryers are usually heat pump or condensing, fireplaces are always a problem - easiest to provide make up air
Thank you sir
You're welcome
Do you start from scratch on each project making these details? If not, how many different "standard" details do you have and how do you decide the best options to apply each? Is it all driven by the sheathing selected, stud sizes, and external insulation?
As an architect, let me tell you we have a whole bunch of standard details that we tend and like to use over and over - saves us lots of time preparing the drawings - time is money, but every job is different, so some are one-off, custom details.
Yes, sometimes it's the insulation that dictates some things, sometimes, it's the type of air barrier that dictates, sometimes it's the vapour barrier, and many times it's the building code that dictates things.
I think Steve’s side cut walkthroughs are awesome, just wish he would do one using 2x8+ZIP R12 and/or ICF for colder climates
we'll get there my friend
I agree, cheers from Atlantic Canada💨🇨🇦
@@stevenbaczekarchitect9431 Steve, look forward 💯to that presentation when you get around to it. cheers from Atlantic Canada,🇨🇦 land of the great white north ... Eh!💨❄☃
I use foam all the time. BUT, i ran across a problem in a apartment that had a water damage in a ski location here in Norway. The window was installed on topp of the foundation were the foundation was stepped down and transited to a wood wall, because half of the floor was under ground, and the front was ground level. (Hill).
They had chimmed the window up and used foam and flashings to seal, there was no vapor barrier witch is a eternal discussion in cellars here in Norway. (I say use em where the cellar is over ground, and not where
it is under). There was a tiny air leacage in the foam, and combined with the electric heater mounted under the window, the hot air condensed and damaged the floor in the room. This is probably not the most common problem in southern US tough. 😂
Tor , the capillary action of the concrete wicking moisture to the heat probably is your source of problem
At what point in the installation process does the expanding foam get applied?
What about the use of brick instead of siding? In that case would you still use the 2” out-sulation foam board behind the brick? The exterior wall would be almost 12” wide, no?
I've drawn this similar detail and yes with the code required min 1" air gap behind a full brick veneer wall you end up with 12" thick wall. The brick will require typical tie backs thru the insulation to the zip sheathing so not sure the same insulation board would work as well. I detailed it with rock wool comfort board and did not do the same flex tape over top of board face because of that. May be a better solution though.
@@dvwake If the cavity exceeds 4", you may have to use engineered ties - note, I'm talking about cavity, not air space. Cavity is a distance between the back of the brick, and the face of studs to which the ties are attached. NEVER attach brick ties to sheathing, be that OSB, plywood or ZIP sheathing - always attach the brick ties to studs and to brick.
Sheathing is not a structural element, studs are.
Use 1" min. air space, and make damn sure the air space does not get filled with mortar or other droppings.
Make sure the air space is vented at bottom and at the top of the wall, so that you get proper cross-ventilation.
Ventilation is key to keeping thing dry!
Rigid board and 1.5" air gap to brick. Detail like that all the time.
Hello Steve! You have "Air Barrier Membrane" called out in your detail. What would be the specified product in this instance? Or is the dashed line indicating the location of the "air barrier" line to trace through the details, not necessarily indicating a material? Or is the dashed line the tape of the zip sheathing, sealing everything up? Thank you for all the good work...so helpful to the learning :)
this might be a stupid question. I know that i have seen a lot of Matts video where there are using the zip -r sheathing. Is this a case where the sheating and the insualtion are separate pieces? regardless this is a pretty good deal of information being given out. gotta say i definitely learned something
Looking at the head detail Steve, your flexible adhered flashing should actually go back to the air barrier, and be installed in a shingle-like fashion (under the air barrier membrane).
But, even before this adhered flashing is placed, the aluminium or metal drip flashing should go in first over the sheathing, then adhered flashing, then the air barrier - all installed in a shingle-like fashion to allow water, if it gets behind insulation which it can (think of thermal expansion and contraction of the wood frame/sheathing coefficient vs, the insulation coefficient) to drain to the exterior.
I would also put two lines of sealant around the window frame - one close to inside face of the frame, the other near the exterior face of the frame.
One bead of sealant is as good as none if you have a sloppy contractor.
We also put two beads of sealant on top of the foundation wall before the wood plate is bolted to it.
Question - is the ZIP sheathing ok as a structural sheathing (like plywood or normal OSB) in your neck-of-the-woods?
your suggestion for attaching the head flashing to the sheathing creates a thermal bridge back to the sheathing while providing no additional benefit in shedding bulk water, which is going to flow in the air gap. polyisocyanurate insulation is sufficiently rigid that you can install the head flashing to the rigid insulation and tape over it. if he were using a non-rigid insulation, such as rockwool comfortboard, your suggestion would have merit.
you raise a good point about the thermal coefficient of expansion, which is higher for polyisocyanurate than it is for the other types of exterior insulation that are commonly used. in the first instance, the gaps would tend to open up in cold weather. in the second instance, wind driven rain is probably not going to be able to drive all the way through the cladding, across the air gap and into the gaps in between insulation panels. so you wouldn't be seeing bulk water getting behind the insulation. the purpose of the head flashing is the shed bulk water. to deal with water that gets behind the insulation through capillary action, you are going to want a drying path through the wall assembly. baczek mentioned that you never want to create a vapor sandwich in your wall assembly. this is an example of one reason why you want to make sure that you don't create a vapor sandwich.
the purpose for the sealant at the interior side is to create an air and water barrier. sealant on the exterior can only be applied to the head and jambs. as baczek mentioned in the video, you never apply sealant at the sill on the exterior side of a window.
Thanks for your passion to the building arts. One question though, would it be a good idea to put some bug barrier in under the drip cap at the head to keep the creepy crawlers out?
this is a very good video. here are a few of my comments. the idea of using jamb extensions (or what you refer to as "bucks") is the way to go if you are doing a renovation in which you are using existing rough openings. but in your case, you were doing a new construction. it seems to me that the better way to go would have been to build the rough openings 1.5" larger in each dimension, and then building a window buck that fit inside the rough opening. the depth of the buck would be the depth of the rough opening plus the depth of the insulation.
using foam insulation to seal the inside perimeter of a window is a matter of preference that a lot of people do. i personally don't care for the approach, especially when you are using closed cell foam. the reason being that houses move, but closed cell foam is relatively rigid. so the closed cell foam might not be flexible enough to accommodate movement of the building. over time, this can result in voids opening up. those voids seem to always appear first in the worst locations (i.e. in corners).
a final comment is that the thermal models show that the thermal performance is better with a midplane ("innie) window installation than with the nailing flange ("outie") window installation that you have shown.
Typically the window wants to be within the middle third - in this case the wall isn't overly thick so no harm in an outie
Steve, have you ever used AAC masonry on your projects?
Did one project years and years ago, can't speak to much to it , sorry bud
Thanks, very useful. Question- we use alot vinyl siding in our area. But I'm big on exterior foam. Can you change the order of the foam and 1/2 or 3/4 stripping, reverse it and still get the benefit of the foam. Reasoning that way the vinyl siding isn't soft, it has solid backing.?
Fabulous job and thanks so very much for sharing your insight Steve.
By the way, I am a fan of the expanding foam. Just please use the right stuff people. We want the windows to open.
Thank you for joining us
Thanks for the mantra !
Steve, assuming closed cell foam after the window is installed, acting as a final seal for waterproofing? Would there ever be a reason to use open cell?
since we assume at some point there is a water there , use black closed cell foam for a fish tank
The foam is an air seal, the windows are a water managed system, not a barrier system
Like others I question the window head flashing detail. I believe the Zip sheathing is the Water & Air barrier. On that premise I would suggest the window trim flashing be bent over the 2X blocking & up onto the Zip sheathing & taped. Theoretically water is intended to run down the Zip sheathing & should directed out. As you say: "Down & Out". From the Zip wall I don't see the out over the window, good chance of In. I suspect under certain circumstances a water leak may appear over a window or door. Also, wouldn't the current detail: window trim flashed taped to the "outboard insulation" require this insulation to be water tight/vapor open? Admittedly I've not had the opportunity to fully integrate exterior with a bumped out window. Lastly, I've enjoy these educational videos as well as the JLC Live & Fine Homebuilding Summit conference sessions I've attended. Very glad you allow open discussion of ideas & methods. With great respect!
Re your first suggestion - you are correct.
Window head flashing should be attached and taped to the Zip sheathing, because it is that sheathing that is the air barrier, UNLESS he's using another membrane over the Zip sheathing to be his air barrier which I do not think he is.
Second - jamb flashing should also be fixed or adhered to and sealed to the Zip sheathing, NOT the insulation - insulation may not be fully waterproof, and probably has all kinds of joints that are not waterproofed.
Third - at the sill, first layer of window flashing should be placed on top of wood frame, then over the sheathing.
Another layer of flashing then goes over the first, and then down the face of insulation for about 6".
After that, you put the sealant or foam bead on top of the second layer of flashing, then the window does up.
Clear as mud?
the head flashing detail appears proper to me. the head flashing is for the purpose of diverting bulk water; it is not for air sealing. the bulk water is going to run down in the air gap, where it would be captured by the head flashing and diverted. the idea that water can defeat the best laid plans of mice and men is the reason why you don't want to create a vapor sandwich in the wall assembly. so if some small amount of moisture does defeat your best plans, it has a drying path out of the wall assembly. the house is in texASS, so it is OK to put the vapor barrier on the exterior side of the wall assembly. the vapor escape path, in this case, is toward the interior, not the exterior.
On the window seal detail, how will air get out of the drainage plain? I think the cedar piece should be notched in the back to overlap the siding but leave a travel path for air? Kind of like a typical soffit detail where the rainscreen meets the soffit. Thank for the great details though, you show why its important to hire the right people from planning to finishing.
What are your thoughts behind the two beads of acoustical sealant between the Zip and the bottom of the header assembly?
I’m watching this video video at a critical time for future projects. I do have a question if you could reference how these details may be different regarding an ICF wall build and specifically moisture in moisture out, cold breaks at the foundation. Also looking into form a drain as a water channeling system on the footer if you have any thoughts on that product. And thank you for the clear and concise video and detailed elements of both videos I’ve seen.
Saw your post. I’ve built a few ICF houses and used Form-A-Drain (which is fantastic). That drain system takes care of not just water but radon as well. I live in an area that is a ‘hot spot’ for radon. Anyway, I highly recommend it. I could never understand why ICF does not draw more interest with builders. Now, if I were to build another ICF, I would add more insulation on the exterior so the concrete core was isolated as much as possible from the outside (hot/cold). Insulate the slab so it runs into the ICF. My houses were 2 and 3 story (one with an elevator). Used scissor trusses on three (I like vaulted ceilings) with Icynene insulation under the roof deck (enclosed, non-vented attic) and then installed an Ultimate Air System 200DX ERV Recoup Aerator which has an heat recovery efficiency of up to 98% and a cooling recovery efficiency of up to 53%.
It just seems that ICF takes out of the equation all of the problems encountered with stick builds: water, air, vapor and thermal. They are incredibly quiet and safe (tornadoes and depending on where you live, can stop bullets - size of ordinance? - according to one of my workers who left to become a policeman). No bugs, no critters. There’s a bit of a learning curve. And yes, while the actual cost of the exterior walls is higher than stick, it’s discounted because of the savings in the HVAC.
@@janice180
Isn't the EPS in the ICF highly flammable?
Doesn't your code require that it be covered with something non-flammable such as cement board?
I've seen AAC masonry units used with great success in Europe, and as you says it does away with all these issues such as vapour, air barriers, fire proofing, thermal issues.
Why is AAC not used more often in USA?
There is a plant making AAC units in northern Florida or southern Georgia, I think.
Great content! Question: If you use a 1/4" square shim behind the exterior head casing, and the jamb casings are both 5/4, is the face of the head casing proud of the jamb casing by 1/4", or does the jamb casing "slope" out from bottom to top?
I am studying a lot these window install systems and for flange windows I see many where a window replacement would require breaking into the cladding. Seems odd to me, given that a certain pct of windows fail and that (I think) cladding systems last longer than windows. I think this is what I see in the above system. Am I missing something? By the way - You guys are awesome!
Steve, these details are great! This is a condensed and easy to understand explanation of things I tried to pick up from Matt's other videos across multiple years and multiple videos. Question: On the window, the foam sits back pretty far from the plane of the glass. Is that to allow water to escape? Can it be moved farther out (or made deeper) to be closer to the other thermal surfaces? It's probably not a huge deal in Austin, but might be more important further north.
location of sealant is a function of window frame.
some windows (commercial style aluminium type) have little weep holes in the main frame portion through which water can weep out (water gets in between glass and the frame). It is important that the sealant be located in the back, away from the weep holes, but it's also important in some frames to put two lines or layers of sealant - one is as good as none if the contractor is sloppy or has no idea what they're doing.
If you're doing residential windows (wood, glass fibre, vinyl), then it's best to talk to the window manufacturer where to locate the sealant so that you don't inadvertnely seal the weep holes or trap water.
Another very important key to window location vis-a-vis wall is to make sure your glass lines-up with the insulation below and around the glass . If you don't do that, you will get massive cold bridging.
he foam is an air seal being applied from the interior
Steve how about a video showing details of your approach to install a european(schucco) window ie no flange
Do you build your drawings as a 2D file or a 3D file that is rendered at 2D? I would think different section views and an isometric would greatly assist construction.
Architects, if they use AutoCAD draw in 2D.
If they use Revit or other BIM software tend to draw in 3D, then view and plot most of the drawings in 2D.
2d
@@apscoradiales revit but large details like this are typically hybrid between 3d and 2d drafting lines. Steve's details are really nice to read. Not every architect has that craft.
Would it be good or at least not bad to put an extra layer of house wrap just behind the siding most especially if you are using rock wool kind of a shell for the jacket type thing to cut some wind
Probably not a problem
He's using Zip which has a wrb integral.
Curious, your plans call for 2" foil faced polyiso insulation, but I believe Matt went with, and you mentioned in the video, 2" rockwool. Is that a cost savings decision or a different trade off?
Polyiso can be more expensive than mineral fibre, and it also is flamable which the mineral fibre is not.
It may be a code issue here as well.
Some codes allow styrene, styrofoam or polyiso insulations in buildings, but they also then require that you cover them with a non flamable board like cement board.
Why acoustic sound and draft sealant on jack and king stud but not common studs? Are you only using acoustic sealant since it remains flexible and not for its sound deadening characteristics?
The sheathing field covers the commons, the jacks are ends of sheathing
Why no metal flashing above the exterior window head casing trim that extends up behind the hardieboard? Hardieboard installation directions recommends flashing at this location because bulk water running down the face of the siding will run right into the window trim and cause premature degradation. Also some of the water will bounce back and run behind the head trim unnecessarily. Is the exterior window trim a water-impervious material like pvc that will be okay in this scenario?
I don'think the Hardie recommendations for flashing at that point are for the protection of the head casing as that shouldn't have any issue with drying, it's to give the water that gets behind the siding a path down and out before getting to the window. In Steve's plan he has a metal drip cap at the bottom of the air channel, above the window, providing that function. My personal guess is that it would be a waste of money and material to put the Hardie recommended flashing at that point because it would have to be attached to the furring strips which have enough gap between them for the water to easily get behind the flashing.
it seems to me that what you are apparently missing here is that the wall assembly includes a ventilated rainscreen.
Steve isn’t it problematic to have a non permeable exterior sheathing like zip ( perm for a well taped detailed zip wall being 1.5 pa or less)esp in cold climate?
Steve what does your window detail look like with European non flanged windows?
Closed cell foam exterior?
I think "Down and Out" would make a good song also.
A good Barney song......am I dating myself?
@@stevenbaczekarchitect9431 Oh no, purple dinosaurs transcends time and space.
Hi there.
I see your're details do not show vapour barrier. Are you deep south so that your air barrier is also acting as a vapour barrier?
If so, I'm not sure it's in the right place - should it not be in front of the polyiso insulation otherwise your dew point will be in the wrong place.
In my neck-of-the-woods (Canada) we do air barrier on the exterior, and vapour barrier on the interior while the insulation is in-between the two.
I've also done work in Middle East were they always do the vapour barrier as well as the air barrier on the exterior of the insulation (warm side, since the exterior is warmer than the interior)).
We have found out that Bakor torched-on air/vapour barrier works best in that part of the World.
Polyethylene vapour barrier works best for us in Canada, and Bakor torched-on air barrier on the outside works best on substrates that won't catch fire or peel-and-stick for substrates can catch fire.
Interested to hear what you have to say.
2" of polyisocyanurate insulation *is* a vapor barrier. the house is in texASS, so the vapor barrier location is not going to be the same as it is in canada.
@@paperwait9611 Texas is a bigASS place. Corpus Christi doesn't have the same weather or climate as Lubbuck.
@@apscoradiales i spent some time living in texASS (a mistake that i won't ever repeat again!) but your point is well taken about the weather patterns being different in different parts of the state. but it is still the case that you would want to put the air barrier on the exterior side of the wall assembly in lubbock.
@@paperwait9611
TexASS can be a really nice place....The Hill Country and West Texas are lovely. if it wasn't for the messed-up American health care system, I'b be living there now - screw Ontario and Quebec. I'd just get myself a gun for protection, and bob's your uncle as Newfies would say.
I am not a vapor barrier fan until it is absolutely needed and that's week long class in itself
My man is left-handed, of course
an ice chest
I imagine an architect has a hard time finding a builder to follow through with their plans. I can see a builder just rolling out Zip tape and hand pressing it versus rolling it. And we don't really need that... cover it up by the end of the day.
Age old problem - contractor and the architect almost never speak the same language.
Look the other way, and thing go south quickly.
I am privileged to work with extremely talented folks!!1
I've always been of the mindset that you should never hire an architect who has never swung a hammer.
Not true!
Traditionally, architects are artists who design buildings; they don't build.
Again, traditionally, it's up to the builder to interpret drawings or written instructions and build accordingly.
Unfortunately, builders come in all kinds of different flavours - some cannot tell a nail from a hammer - yes, it can be that bad.
Some architects also design things that are next to impossible to build, particularly if you toss in the budget issues.
I think field knowledge is extremely important, but the hammer swinging may not be needed, btw, I have worked as a framer and as an electrician
Expanding foam doesn't work because it might blow up the house inside
How exactly would expanding foam blow up a house?