way too sloppy cutting beyond the line, I was wondering why you didn't show a close-up until I saw the knock out. Do not follow this video if you want safe stairs.
They don't take you through it step by step. All they do is let you watch them mark it out and cut it. There are other video's out there that will actually help you. Horrible video.
The end cut on these would have failed inspection in my area. Using a hand saw or high end jig saw to finish off the corners without over cutting is the only way allowed
terrible video...fine if you know how to use a square w/knuckles and know what size lumber to get etc but then you wouldnt need this video, would you? Useless for people not in the trades.
He definately should have explained that, particularly because it's the most common mistake. I do think he took it off though, it looked like he used the blade to reduce the 1.5".
I literally didn't know how to cut stringers . Watched thus video like 5 times went to home depot got my wood and cut me 6 step stringers. Made perfect sense. Thanks, I'm now redoing my grandma's steps.
First one took me 2 hours! Tomorrow trace the stringers! !! Also id add how to cut the amount off the bottom for the flooring (too and bottom) generally 3/4 or 1 1/4 right?... as well as explain a “kicker”... mahalo for your videos!!!
You measure finished floor to finished floor and measure your rise and run after that. The “kick plate” you just notch out. 1.5” for a 2x4 under bottom foot of stringer
Video is incomplete you dnt mention the cut at the bottom and top only the run/rise cuts a lot of ppl are goin to waste time money and materials because of it
My 2x12 deck stair stringers rotted at the corners where the cuts extended into the meat of the board. Resulted in a couple of steps breaking loose at the rot corners.
What’s wrong with the rear handle saws? I have the Makita one and it’s awesome. Way more accurate than those small ones with no weight and tiny baseplate. Like everything they definitely have their place and this is definitely one of them. Also what if the bottom of stairs has same thickness flooring as the treads? Deck to landing for example.
@@jakewrtt This is a bit tricky to explain, but bottom riser has to be cut shorter by the same amount as the tread thickness, since the ground/floor/etc is inherently where you're stepping, so since there's already a "tread" (ie. the ground) you're coming from to the first step, the riser must be shorter on the first step so it's actually equal for your step for every step you take (ie ground to first step rise is identical to last step to the landing). It's hard to explain without seeing it.
There are stair stringer calculators free online. You put in the height of your deck, what size tread you will be using (2x6 or 5/4 decking), and whether you want step down or flush step. It gives you the rise and run height/length of each stair, how many stairs, and angle of stairs. Super simple.
Every major tool manufacturer (Makita, DeWalt, Milwaukee, flex etc. Etc. Etc) makes a worm drive saw. Worm drive saws have the handle behind the motor, that's the main difference.
@scottpollock1714 hi,sorry to disagree but I don't think that's right. Yes many manufacturers have a rear handle, or handle behind the motor but that doesn't make them a worm driven saw. They just look like one
@@danthechippie4439 you are correct I mispoke - a rear handle not the "main" difference but it's a pretty good tell at a first glance. The difference is how power is driven to the blade from the motor. With that being said all major manufacturers still offer worm drive options it is not exclusive to skill.
Thank you! I never use a skill saw and was worried about kickback and how to remove the saw properly when making a cut that doesn't go all the way across. I was also wondering about starting cuts from a corner (which this method eliminates). Thank you again, this was very helpful! It is so simple :)
You'll be safe as long as you keep your saw blade moving straight and let off the trigger and make sure the blade comes to a complete stop before you lift out of the cut. If you're still feeling unsafe use a cordless circular saw. The blade comes to a stop instantly when you let off the trigger. You can drill 1/2" holes right in the corner where the rise meets the run and cut right up to the hole. Good luck 👍
Pica dry, we all own one and still use regular pencils haha 😂 diamond back and Milwaukee gear, love seeing companies using wicked gear, means they probably pay their guys well!
way too sloppy cutting beyond the line, I was wondering why you didn't show a close-up until I saw the knock out.
Do not follow this video if you want safe stairs.
Yikes, this is a fantastic video on how to cut stringers in a sloppy and disastrous way.
How do you figure that? I’m a stair guy for hardwood stairs and I like that they don’t over run cuts or dip their cuts
Minimally. Helps with flex
Wasn't a bad video. Had a rhythm going! The overcut wasn't terrible! A good video
@@gregorymosher5008 They did overrun their cuts. If that was my contractor, it would piss me right off.
I know inspectors that would fail this work. Over cutting on stair stringers is a big NO. Finish cuts with handsaw, nice and clean.
They don't take you through it step by step. All they do is let you watch them mark it out and cut it. There are other video's out there that will actually help you. Horrible video.
The end cut on these would have failed inspection in my area. Using a hand saw or high end jig saw to finish off the corners without over cutting is the only way allowed
terrible video...fine if you know how to use a square w/knuckles and know what size lumber to get etc but then you wouldnt need this video, would you? Useless for people not in the trades.
How to waste a piece of wood in 5 minutes.
Didn't take off tread thickness on first step, over cut every one and get yourself a proper hand saw not one that folds.
He definately should have explained that, particularly because it's the most common mistake. I do think he took it off though, it looked like he used the blade to reduce the 1.5".
I literally didn't know how to cut stringers . Watched thus video like 5 times went to home depot got my wood and cut me 6 step stringers. Made perfect sense. Thanks, I'm now redoing my grandma's steps.
First one took me 2 hours! Tomorrow trace the stringers! !!
Also id add how to cut the amount off the bottom for the flooring (too and bottom) generally 3/4 or 1 1/4 right?... as well as explain a “kicker”... mahalo for your videos!!!
You measure finished floor to finished floor and measure your rise and run after that. The “kick plate” you just notch out. 1.5” for a 2x4 under bottom foot of stringer
Fail !!! Never over cut stringers
Most inspectors fail for a cut through, sad you spent all that time marking with a pen but can't use a circular saw
Saw this also,,,,,,fast is not the idea, being correct is the idea
@@terrydawkins9936 Anybody who knew what they're doing can do it with a little speed and not overrun the cuts.
Video is incomplete you dnt mention the cut at the bottom and top only the run/rise cuts a lot of ppl are goin to waste time money and materials because of it
Over cut everyone looked a right mess
Says a DIY wanna be clearly.
@@SticksAandstonesBozo 😁😁
Those knuckles on the square are an excellent idea. Thanks man
Lazy carpenters always overcut stair treads.😅
Brutal
3/8” max one step can be off. Not the entire run. Look at the code.
The largest rise and the smallest rise can not be greater than 3/8”
It that 2x 12?
Unsafe stairs, extending the cuts create stress concentrations at those corners, they can break easily under heavy loads
Good point. Noticed this also
Lmfao it barely goes a 1/2 inch relax it's never that serious
might be a big deal on a 2 x 10 not so much on a 2 x 12
My 2x12 deck stair stringers rotted at the corners where the cuts extended into the meat of the board. Resulted in a couple of steps breaking loose at the rot corners.
Come on bro! U need too take a little more time to not pass the thread and riser points. It's going too look like shit when you install them.
This dosen't teach anyone anything except someone was stupid enough to buy a worm saw You need to take another inch and a half off of that first step.
What’s wrong with the rear handle saws? I have the Makita one and it’s awesome. Way more accurate than those small ones with no weight and tiny baseplate. Like everything they definitely have their place and this is definitely one of them. Also what if the bottom of stairs has same thickness flooring as the treads? Deck to landing for example.
@@jakewrtt This is a bit tricky to explain, but bottom riser has to be cut shorter by the same amount as the tread thickness, since the ground/floor/etc is inherently where you're stepping, so since there's already a "tread" (ie. the ground) you're coming from to the first step, the riser must be shorter on the first step so it's actually equal for your step for every step you take (ie ground to first step rise is identical to last step to the landing). It's hard to explain without seeing it.
@@think41c yes you are correct. I think meant if you were adding the same thickness as the treads to the landing you don’t need to subtract.
I would like to learn how do I figure how many steps do I need from any deck height? let say I have 8’ ft high deck? Thanks
There are stair stringer calculators free online. You put in the height of your deck, what size tread you will be using (2x6 or 5/4 decking), and whether you want step down or flush step. It gives you the rise and run height/length of each stair, how many stairs, and angle of stairs. Super simple.
I don't think that saw is a worm drive. Skill are the only people producing worm drive saws to the best of my knowledge
Every major tool manufacturer (Makita, DeWalt, Milwaukee, flex etc. Etc. Etc) makes a worm drive saw. Worm drive saws have the handle behind the motor, that's the main difference.
@scottpollock1714 hi,sorry to disagree but I don't think that's right.
Yes many manufacturers have a rear handle, or handle behind the motor but that doesn't make them a worm driven saw. They just look like one
@@danthechippie4439 you are correct I mispoke - a rear handle not the "main" difference but it's a pretty good tell at a first glance. The difference is how power is driven to the blade from the motor.
With that being said all major manufacturers still offer worm drive options it is not exclusive to skill.
look at the burn marks, change the blade
Nice laid out bad and duty work
Goid video
Thank you! I never use a skill saw and was worried about kickback and how to remove the saw properly when making a cut that doesn't go all the way across. I was also wondering about starting cuts from a corner (which this method eliminates). Thank you again, this was very helpful! It is so simple :)
You'll be safe as long as you keep your saw blade moving straight and let off the trigger and make sure the blade comes to a complete stop before you lift out of the cut. If you're still feeling unsafe use a cordless circular saw. The blade comes to a stop instantly when you let off the trigger. You can drill 1/2" holes right in the corner where the rise meets the run and cut right up to the hole. Good luck 👍
Pica dry, we all own one and still use regular pencils haha 😂 diamond back and Milwaukee gear, love seeing companies using wicked gear, means they probably pay their guys well!
Had he spent more time learning carpentry over getting tats he could've been something
Buy a jig saw bud