I replaced all 4 door actuators, and worth noting that the front door glass has a 2nd release clip so you need to get your whole arm in to reach the 2nd clip (only one clip in the rear doors). Thanks for the video, saved me $$$ doing the job myself.
Thanks, this is a really good instructional video and saved me dealership labour costs. One thing, there are two white lugs to be released for a front door window, you need to put your arm further in the door to release it because you cant see it.
Putting the external cable back into its teeny tiny slot was a punish! But this video was spot on for me to replace that unit and now all is well. Thanks guys for making these videos, it was exactly what I needed to know to do this job.
Thanks guys - huge help. Changed the actuator on my D4 at the weekend (right side passenger). Would've been a lot more trial and error and difficult without your video. The dealer quoted R4800 (SA Rands), so I bought a second hand actuator (for R850) that came from a D3, and noted that the white nylon/plastic cable sleeve-end to the inner door latch is redesigned (strengthened) on the D4 cable (not surprising, as this was broken on the D3 used part). I modified the D3 actuator casing slightly to fit the D4 cable. Also the D3 actuator casing has a small cover/shield around the other lever (i.e. where the outer door handle cable nipple attaches). This cover hinders access to re-attach the cable (it's fiddly enough already), so I cut the small cover off - the D4 actuator doesn't have this anyway. One small tip; put a rag on the edge of the hole for the winder mechanism - where you reach inside the door to hold and manoeuvre the actuator - it's a sharp edge and very uncomfortable on the arm. (ps. when are you going to do a video on how to change a broken crank?! ;-)
This video was so well detailed and close to reality that I already knew what to expect and there were no real surprises. I have now changed my actuator thanks to this video and all is working. The new one has a modification which prevents the door being locked when it is open. It took a while to suss that out. The very fiddly bit to attach the external handle cable was the worst. My arm looks like I've been self harming. But I persisted and kept looking at the part I was replacing and succeeded. Many thanks.
Thanks for the video. Followed each step to a point of no return. I eventually completed the replacement part but boy were those cables a nightmare to release and refit.
Really helpful video, thank you. That outer door handle cable was a total pain in the arse to reconnect. I held it in place with a hand through the regulator aperture and a hook or flat screwdriver to push the wire towards the outer skin which rotates the fitting to line up with the slot. Lots of trial and error but it will happen. Hope this helps a bit. Cheers
Really useful video and comments, which have given me the confidence to give this a try - actuators gone on both left hand doors on my LR4. Is there anything else to consider when the door handles are the ones with the buttons on them?
Could you possibly do one on the front passenger door? I got my door panel off and all the associated wires unclipped EXCEPT the door lock wire. I couldn't figure out how to unhook that to actually take the panel completely off the door.
All your videos are so helpful. Best subscription ever. Would are your thoughts on aftermarket vs genuine apart from price? My front driver side door is playing up all other doors are locking but I can’t unlock the driver door would be a actuator or something else thanks
Hi Zak - this video is better ruclips.net/video/Gs3OmThUajM/видео.html or this one ( front ) ruclips.net/video/xEjuvHBnuIM/видео.html The genuine ones do seem better in my experience but the price is a bit high ! Most likely cause of failure is the actuator.
@@L663 thanks I have watched all the videos. One question though how to buy the correct actuator ? How to I know if I need 433mhz or something different ? Also looks like a lot of models are using the same part. I have someone selling a evoque model brand new genuine part but I am not sure if it will work on my 2013 sport model ? Do you sell them as well?
@@zakkhan410 Hi Zak - the frequency only relates to the key - it is not a factor on the locks. Yes the same part is used across many models for the door actuator If you provide chassis number i can confirm the part number on your exact car.
@@L663 I have someone selling a genuine actuator part #LR091341 as a evoque model my vin number is SALLSAAF3CA737910 thanks for helping much appreciated
Top blokes. Followed both videos and replaced both rear door actuators. That outer door cable is a bitch but the rest spot on. Thank you for such a useful and easy to follow video.
on the front doors just to note there are (2) releases for the window you can reach them through the speaker hole great job guys great video ! ! also i just took the whole window out as it was easier and gave me more room .
Mark Mackover I have exact this problem. The first white clip, which is also shown in this video, is easy to sort of remove. However I cant see a second one in my front right door? Is it hidden somewhere?
Did you have bad experience with a Torx in the past....i am feeling there is some deep emotional issue you want to share with us..... actually maybe not a good idea.... we can just about fix cars....emotional stuff we dont do !
Hard enough getting the feckin thing off, but .... putting the nipple back for the outside handle pull cable is a _BASTARD_ of a job. Do not attempt this if it is going to start raining.
Did you ever figure this out? I have the exact same issue. I've already done this on two rear doors fine, as per the video, but the third won't seperate the glass out of the clip! EDIT: just found this thread www.disco3.co.uk/forum/replacing-door-latch-window-regulator-now-with-guide-33743.html which shows that the front door has two of those clips to release the window glass. Hopefully this solves the problem. EDIT 2: this worked for me. The trick is to have the window open pretty much exactly 5" (125mm), this allows just enough space to get your arm in and through to get to the second clip. Previously I had the window open at around 160mm and just couldn't fit!
Still cant get into this door if you have any ideas reasing forums saying i should be able to pull on the latch inside the door skin but what part am i pulling to release the lock
Many thanks for this video, I would have been reluctant to even start the job without it. An additional problem I discovered on my 2010 D4 HSE was the actuator is much bigger and extends up with a second electrical connector and solenoid (for the dead locking I think). This meant it was impossible to rotate the actuator to get at the outer cable to release it. However, it is really easy to remove and re-fit the outer handle - watch this video - ruclips.net/video/uOO8dhOZ3is/видео.html You can then remove both the inner plate of the outside door handle and the lock with the cable attached at both ends, and then disconnect and reconnect the outer cable on the bench.... Much easier than struggling inside the door....
I replaced all 4 door actuators, and worth noting that the front door glass has a 2nd release clip so you need to get your whole arm in to reach the 2nd clip (only one clip in the rear doors). Thanks for the video, saved me $$$ doing the job myself.
Thanks, this is a really good instructional video and saved me dealership labour costs. One thing, there are two white lugs to be released for a front door window, you need to put your arm further in the door to release it because you cant see it.
Thank you! It took me 45mins of cursing and struggling before I realised there was an additional clip holding onto the window glass!
Putting the external cable back into its teeny tiny slot was a punish! But this video was spot on for me to replace that unit and now all is well. Thanks guys for making these videos, it was exactly what I needed to know to do this job.
Thanks guys - huge help.
Changed the actuator on my D4 at the weekend (right side passenger). Would've been a lot more trial and error and difficult without your video.
The dealer quoted R4800 (SA Rands), so I bought a second hand actuator (for R850) that came from a D3, and noted that the white nylon/plastic cable sleeve-end to the inner door latch is redesigned (strengthened) on the D4 cable (not surprising, as this was broken on the D3 used part). I modified the D3 actuator casing slightly to fit the D4 cable.
Also the D3 actuator casing has a small cover/shield around the other lever (i.e. where the outer door handle cable nipple attaches). This cover hinders access to re-attach the cable (it's fiddly enough already), so I cut the small cover off - the D4 actuator doesn't have this anyway.
One small tip; put a rag on the edge of the hole for the winder mechanism - where you reach inside the door to hold and manoeuvre the actuator - it's a sharp edge and very uncomfortable on the arm.
(ps. when are you going to do a video on how to change a broken crank?! ;-)
Yes the cranks can break - make sure you use the correct oil ! cranks are now available !
This video was so well detailed and close to reality that I already knew what to expect and there were no real surprises. I have now changed my actuator thanks to this video and all is working. The new one has a modification which prevents the door being locked when it is open. It took a while to suss that out. The very fiddly bit to attach the external handle cable was the worst. My arm looks like I've been self harming. But I persisted and kept looking at the part I was replacing and succeeded. Many thanks.
Thanks for the video. Followed each step to a point of no return. I eventually completed the replacement part but boy were those cables a nightmare to release and refit.
Really helpful video, thank you. That outer door handle cable was a total pain in the arse to reconnect. I held it in place with a hand through the regulator aperture and a hook or flat screwdriver to push the wire towards the outer skin which rotates the fitting to line up with the slot. Lots of trial and error but it will happen. Hope this helps a bit. Cheers
Great video guys. Especially showing how the electrical connectors come undone. Saves alot of fumbling around
Really useful video and comments, which have given me the confidence to give this a try - actuators gone on both left hand doors on my LR4. Is there anything else to consider when the door handles are the ones with the buttons on them?
I really appreciate the video guys. I would have been stuffed without it :)
Thanks for great video, just done it myself today.
Without your help I would not be able to fix it.
👏👏👏Keep up great work 👍👍👍👍
Glad to help
Could you possibly do one on the front passenger door? I got my door panel off and all the associated wires unclipped EXCEPT the door lock wire. I couldn't figure out how to unhook that to actually take the panel completely off the door.
Great video ..but for the sake of 5minutes removing the outer door handle makes the job SO much easier
Yes its so much easier
Thank you, I have benefited a lot from you and saved a lot of money
All your videos are so helpful. Best subscription ever. Would are your thoughts on aftermarket vs genuine apart from price? My front driver side door is playing up all other doors are locking but I can’t unlock the driver door would be a actuator or something else thanks
Hi Zak - this video is better
ruclips.net/video/Gs3OmThUajM/видео.html
or this one ( front )
ruclips.net/video/xEjuvHBnuIM/видео.html
The genuine ones do seem better in my experience but the price is a bit high !
Most likely cause of failure is the actuator.
@@L663 thanks I have watched all the videos. One question though how to buy the correct actuator ? How to I know if I need 433mhz or something different ? Also looks like a lot of models are using the same part. I have someone selling a evoque model brand new genuine part but I am not sure if it will work on my 2013 sport model ? Do you sell them as well?
@@zakkhan410 Hi Zak - the frequency only relates to the key - it is not a factor on the locks.
Yes the same part is used across many models for the door actuator
If you provide chassis number i can confirm the part number on your exact car.
@@L663 I have someone selling a genuine actuator part #LR091341 as a evoque model my vin number is SALLSAAF3CA737910 thanks for helping much appreciated
Top blokes. Followed both videos and replaced both rear door actuators. That outer door cable is a bitch but the rest spot on. Thank you for such a useful and easy to follow video.
Thanks for the great video guys. It was a great help!!
Fantastic video, it helped me fix my door. thank you!
Jorge Marin cool. I am happy to help you. See next week the next vídeo how to fix the latch
Great video helped me greatly 👌🏻
Please help. My 2013 LR4 upper tailgate keeps rapidly unlatching on it's own. Engine on or off, even with battery removed from key fob. Can you help?
Will you be posting a video on how to put it all back together?
on the front doors just to note there are (2) releases for the window you can reach them through the speaker hole great job guys great video ! ! also i just took the whole window out as it was easier and gave me more room .
Mark Mackover I have exact this problem. The first white clip, which is also shown in this video, is easy to sort of remove. However I cant see a second one in my front right door? Is it hidden somewhere?
excellent tutorial ! .. thanks guys, this video helped me alot! cheers!
Loathe torx screws. But great videos.
Did you have bad experience with a Torx in the past....i am feeling there is some deep emotional issue you want to share with us..... actually maybe not a good idea.... we can just about fix cars....emotional stuff we dont do !
Hard enough getting the feckin thing off, but .... putting the nipple back for the outside handle pull cable is a _BASTARD_ of a job. Do not attempt this if it is going to start raining.
Thank you chaps...My swear box is already full!!
Thanks for helping
Hi do you have a vid for changing the front door actuator or is it exactly the same process as the rear
we need to do the front - can you wait a few days ?
That would be great. Thank you
Did you do a video for the fronts
@@L663 did you ever do the front driver door actuator replacement video please? Is it very different then the rear?
Thank you very much cause this video helped me about my same problem.
Is there any way how to unlock the door if door cannot be opened by the key and also child safety is activated?
Is this similar on a discovery sport?
Is this job the same on a RR sport 2006 model ?
yes but the front doors have 2 release clips for the window
The galss will not release when we push that clip! It's like it's still attached and that clip hasn't done anything
Did you ever figure this out? I have the exact same issue. I've already done this on two rear doors fine, as per the video, but the third won't seperate the glass out of the clip!
EDIT: just found this thread www.disco3.co.uk/forum/replacing-door-latch-window-regulator-now-with-guide-33743.html which shows that the front door has two of those clips to release the window glass. Hopefully this solves the problem.
EDIT 2: this worked for me. The trick is to have the window open pretty much exactly 5" (125mm), this allows just enough space to get your arm in and through to get to the second clip. Previously I had the window open at around 160mm and just couldn't fit!
This really helped.. thanks guys.
Actuator is come off with the cable and the door handle together
Hi Alan - we actually updated this video - check it out here
ruclips.net/video/L5P2253jcFI/видео.html
@@L663 Thanks but if the video can show when you start to do better ,I mean how to remove the cover.
@@alanw5812 here you go
ruclips.net/video/riU4g_lM55I/видео.html
I have 2003 Rang Rover that won't unlock when I turn the key in lock to hole.
I cant get my door open full stop to replace it any ideas
Which car - can you describe the problem a little more please
@@L663 i have a 2005 disco 3 door locks locked doesnt react to any buttons or wen i pull the cable for the handle, its rear drivers side
Still cant get into this door if you have any ideas reasing forums saying i should be able to pull on the latch inside the door skin but what part am i pulling to release the lock
Front door's a pig
Many thanks for this video, I would have been reluctant to even start the job without it.
An additional problem I discovered on my 2010 D4 HSE was the actuator is much bigger and extends up with a second electrical connector and solenoid (for the dead locking I think). This meant it was impossible to rotate the actuator to get at the outer cable to release it.
However, it is really easy to remove and re-fit the outer handle - watch this video - ruclips.net/video/uOO8dhOZ3is/видео.html
You can then remove both the inner plate of the outside door handle and the lock with the cable attached at both ends, and then disconnect and reconnect the outer cable on the bench.... Much easier than struggling inside the door....
I totally agree - we did this on our latest Freelander 2 video.
ruclips.net/video/aZ14b1nWn_4/видео.html