Dillon 750 tips and tricks for precision reloading
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- Опубликовано: 31 июл 2024
- Get the thrust bearing here amzn.to/2ZdOXsF
Get the toolhead here amzn.to/2GDgD3F (don't worry about the review, he didn't realize the colors could be different)
Setting up a Dillon 750 for precision loading isn't as complex as you may expect. Check out my tips, order your parts and start cutting your loading time down and increase your shooting time.
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#fclassjohn #dillonprecision #precisionreloading 
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Very informational. Thank you for the link for the bearing.
Thanks for the upload! great information. I appreciate it.
Thank you so much for the video. It seems the changes aren't too drastic.
The thrust bearings made a ton of difference - Thank you. Perhaps one of the best $10 upgrades I've ever done
Awesome!
I like the free float rings and the alignment with the retainer screw on the tool head. Like you said you can setup all your dies in the same way, screw them in, back it off until the retainer screw aligns and voila your settings are maintained. I think while I build up my inventory to eventually have dedicated tool heads that would be an amazing quality of life improvement for caliber changes. Who knows that may even make having dedicated tool heads unnecessary. I was looking at the Whidden tool head so glad that I saw your video as that feature alone sold me on Armanov over the Whidden.
Thank you
Thank you and I’m glad you found the video helpful.
This is the video I have been looking for... excellent!
Thank you. I'm so glad it's been helpful for you.
Great video! You could share more details on making the piece for the bullet feeder. I'd watch it!
Good stuff John!
Thank you!!
I was just wondering about this one compared to the Whidden - of course you have a video for this! :)
This video was very helpful thank you
Enjoyed the video!
On my mr bullet feed die I put a rubber band around the hole for the powder check in the tool head and slip the other end on the clip that holds the die together. I also put a very light film of oil in the die where the 2 halves make contact to smooth it out. Can’t wait to see a video of your setup running!
Thank you. Yeah I’ll do a running video soon.
Thank you for the information. Looking to purchase a 750xl, soon, and I appreciate the insight.
Glad it was helpful!
I just started using the 750 and overall love it, one issue is every once in awhile a primer won’t seat could honing the shell plate help with the primer issue or is there something I’m missing?
I am looking at doing this on my Dillon 650, but my concern is that I will have issues with getting my brass to line up with my Sinclair Mandrel. Has anyone tried it this way, or know whether it will work well or not?
I know it's a silly & dumb request, but I'd kind of like to see you run through a few cases on video. Just want to get an understanding of how fast you're going, and how it all works with the auto-drive.
Good Video!
-Mike
Thank you and will do, I actually am loading a brass prep video right now and should have it up soon. I'll work on a loading video too in the near future.
The thrust bearings just make smoother. operation or is there any other advantage
Hey F Class John,
Happy Easter!
I know this is an old video. But I was wondering if you have a video that explains how you set up your dies in the 750. I recently got a 750 after seeing your videos showing that precision ammo can be made with them.
I have one question. I need help with how I’m supposed to set up the dies on the 750. I am not resizing on it so none of my dies fully contact the shell plate during operation. And my COALs are kind of all over the place. I’m hovering around a +/- .007 thousands of an inch in inconsistent seating depths. Using the SAC The Seating Die (so I know it’s not the die’s fault - love this die).
But didn’t know if you had any tricks or recommendations on getting more consistent COALs / seating depths with the 750.
And I know you’ve switched to the Zero Press (I watch all your videos - thanks for doing what you do). Is there a trick for consistent seating depths? Or is this why some like you and Cortina load long and then finish seating on an Arbor Press?
(Lastly, I know bullets have variances in overall length but I am measuring base to ogive and still getting the .007 thou variance plus or minus - so .014 thou total variance on say a batch of 100)
Any info would be greatly appreciated!
I have often the problem that cases wont be fall done to the feeder bar when I press the handle down. Most of the time a small edge is hanging on that small plastic funnel and when I press the handle up and give it a wiggle, the case falls down. I have this problem with 9mm and .300 blk and its quite annyoing. Did anyone have this problem as well?
what is this Dillon powder funnel inside the powder die you speak of? 5:20 . do you have a link to this item?
Great video. On honing the shell plate are you talking light sanding to remove high spots in coating? Just trying to figure out what this gains you with 400 grit sandpaper. Thanks again for info. Parts list is being ordered.
Yes, it would be very light polishing to take off any high points and make the overall plate sit flatter.
I use my micrometer and measure using the stem and I document in my notebook
Hi John, just purchased my first 750. Thanks for this video. Quick question: which dies do you use the floating lock rings and which ones do you not? Thanks again.
Great video!
My ears perked up when you mentioned setting your primers deeper.
I tried to set up my XL750 on the Mark7 650 Pro auto drive.
I could not get primers to seat properly. Primers were proud of the case.
I set up my XL650 on the auto drive and it works fine.
What did you do to get primers to seat deeper on your XL750?
I’ll be honest I’m a little hesitant to talk about it, not because I don’t want to share the information but it does require you to completely void your Dillon warranty in all reality plus there’s liability issues. If it’s not done right you can detonate primers or really damage the machine. I realize that using an auto drive already does that but to see the primer is deeper you have to grind on a couple parts pretty severely. In reality I’m hoping at some point I can share it in a way that is safe for everybody but I’m just not there yet.
Hi John. Ordered the washer, I think Amazon lost it in the mail. Any other viable Amazon options
John thanks for the great videos. Because of your videos I recently bought a 750 to speed up my reloading. I load for a 6mm Creedmoor and a 6.5x284. Im trying to figure out all the caliber conversion parts I need but they don't list anything for the 284 class of cartridges. Since that is what you shoot was hoping you could help me figure out the right parts.
Glad they help. Here's the conversion kit I use. Keep in ind some of the parts may be the same as your 6.5x284 so you might save some money and just order the parts that are different. .270 Win, 7 x 57, .284 Win - # 20142
@@FClassJohn thank you very much, I think all I need are the case feed parts and the funnel.
I consider any progressive press to be used for quantity, not quality. I load one round at a time on a Forster press for accurate ammo.
Reminiscent of Jeremy Renner/Elizabeth Olsen(?) Oil Plant movie.
What's the idea of best all-round bullet - targeting - paper/steel, longer distance hunting, accuracies, caliber, weight/grain, bullet length, cases, charges, and primers? Intrigue Novice
I installed the Bearing on the case plate and it sucked . I found it was much smoother without it ..weird
Great stuff! What SD's do you get reloading this way?
On 20 shot strings I typically get single digit SD and sub 20 ES.
Can you show the complete process, start to finish on the 750 ?
Yeah people have asked and I can do that.. I'll work on putting something together hopefully before Nationals but no guarantees. Most likely to do it right I'll have to wait until after Nationals.
Thanks for all the great videos What did you use between the area 419 powder funnel and the dillon powder die that is tapped???
Thank you. Got to the drop down in this link and you'll see 'Dillon Powder Die' as an option. www.area419.com/product/funnelheads/
Thank you very much
Thanks for your video John! May I know the reason why you upgrade the magnum kit for case feeder? Will it improve the feeding for the case feeder. Thanks again!
For magnum cases you usually need to upgrade so the brass feeds correctly. It's a size issue mostly.
@@FClassJohn Thank you for the reply! I thought you use this set up mainly for 284 win, and the magnum kit is for improving feeding. Thanks for the clarification. Merry Christmas.
@@zaneqi2265 I was shooting a magnum for a little while but when I went back to .284 I changed the case feeder parts back to the normals ones.
How are you chamfering to stop a rough edge from cutting into your bullets? If you are using the Giraud before you are residing, won’t you be creating a slightly inaccurate case OAL since it hasn’t been sized yet?
So when I was using that process I had the first tool head that would decap, size then partially expand the neck. After that it would go to the trim/chamfer/deburr on the giraud. Then I had a second tool head for final expansion, powder and seating.
@@FClassJohn how are you lubing/cleaning lube off in the process?
Have you got a source for the carbide gauge pins. So fat I can only find ones without a tapered end or do we need to buy this sort and modify it so it doesn't damage the brass on the way down
It took some explaining what I wanted but this is where I got mine. They can do the taper too but just expect a hefty price tag. I can't remember how much it was with tapering but I want to say it was around $130-$150 per pin with the taper.
Willrich Precision
@@FClassJohn cheers. Thanks for the help
Hey John. I noticed that you removed the spring + pin of your index bushing. You made it similar to XL 650? If yes. why? Thanks in advance.
I did that in order to try to get deeper and more reliable primer seating. The 750 makes it very difficult to do anything deeper than .003 which Saami spec. I played with modifying various parts and unfortunately none of them gave me perfectly consistent results. In the end I think I put the plunger in spring back in but I don’t use that system anymore so I honestly don’t remember.
@@FClassJohn Thank you very much for your prompt reply, John! :)
I see you've changed out the index bushing for a ballbearing. I'm looking to do the same, can you tell me what dimensions on the bearing and if you used another bolt/screw, what dimensions is it. I'm in sweden and we use the metricsystem, I'm having a hard time identifying what to get to hold a bearing.
Maybe this will help. It's a video I made about how I switched it out. ruclips.net/video/23yU0MEC5gw/видео.html
@@FClassJohn Thanks for the prompt reply, i watched your video on this but what eludes me i how to search for a "8 30 second" threaded screw. As I mentioned, I'm in Sweden and not that familiar with inches and how to correctly write that out (so i can search efficently) sorry for the stupid questions, i really appreciate your videos on reloading!
@@karllarsson368 Not a stupid question at all. I'll do my best to help you. The screw you're looking for is something like this www.ebay.com/itm/8-32-X-1-2-Phil-Oval-Head-Machine-Screw-18-8/392305377061
For the ball bearing you're looking for something like this (Qty. 10) Ball Bearing 1616-ZZ Shielded high quality 1/2"x1-1/8"x3/8"
Don't hesitate if you have more questions.
F-Class John Thank you! This clears up a lot. Keep up your good work.
So do u remove the ball and spring underneath the shell plate?
No I use the factory ones.
Did you do anything to the ejector wire after you installed the bearings?
No. But I have looked at getting one of those cap style ejectors and eliminating the wire.
Thank you for the video (and all of the others that you take the time to post)! I had a few other questions for you, some of which I'm assuming you'll have answers/input for and some others you may not. I also posted another question for you regarding the sizing die neck diameter and mandrel/gauge pin diameters you utilize in your set up under another related question in the post below.
1) Do you recommend a bushing or collet sizing die?
2) I currently have the Redding competition die sets for a number of my cartridges and would like to utilize them in this set up if possible. These die sets come with a separate body die and neck bushing die in lieu of a FL sizing die. Do you think I will have any issues or induced runout if using the separate body die and neck bushing die in the sizing operation vs a single FL sizing die? If you think these can be utilized without issue do you think it would make any difference if I had the body or neck die before the other in the toolhead?
3) Have you had any issues with running the lubed cases through your case feeder system? How often are you having to clean the case feeder, drop tube, and other components?
4) At what stage in the reloading process are you cleaning the brass and annealing the brass?
5) Any tips/tricks on the set up of the dies in the tool heads or the tool head into the press? I remember reading a suggestion somewhere to run a piece of brass up into the die(s) and then lock the die down with the piece of brass fully inserted into the die. And then to fill the shell plate with brass and run the ram up to have each station engaged with the die before locking the toolhead down into the press, do you do either of these or any other special set up with the installation of the dies and/or tool head?
6) Have you loaded any compressed rifle loads on the Dillon, if so are you using any special processes or tools to help ensure consistent COAL (drop tube, electric toothbrush, Aries powder ram die, etc...)?
Thanks again for all the great information you provide to us shooters!
Glad you enjoy the videos and I appreciate the kind words. Here's some brief answers for you. Hope they help.
1) I've honestly never used a collet die. I'm a big fan of custom honed dies if you know your neck size but otherwise a good bushing die.
2) Again, I'm sorry but I don't use Neck or Body dies but in theory they should let you achieve the results you want, or at least I know I've heard people who get good results. You're just achieving it in two steps so there's more theoretical potential for error to be introduced but if you do it correctly you should be ok. The real question you need to be asking yourself is do you REALLY need to care about runout (within an acceptable margin at least),
3)I don't have any issues using lubed brass in the system and I don't see any serious buildup but keep 2 things in mind. First is that I use One Shot so it's more of a dry lube and not sticky. If you used a lanolin based lube you'd have a much bigger mess long term. Second is that with one shot I still clean out my sizing die about every hundred rounds with a cleaning wool mop and then every thousand or two I'll do a more thorough clean.
4)Currently I clean first, then anneal but I have also annealed first, then sized then clean. The difference is whether I'm dry or wet tumbling. Dry tumbling I clean first, wet tumbling I anneal first.
5)I'm pretty simple with the dies. I set each one up at a time and don't use any real tricks. Just good measuring techniques to make sure each die is doing what I want it to. Sorry, no black magic here. :)
6)I hate compressed loads personally and don't go out of my way to figure out how to load them. Way too much to go wrong for f-class. I know there's a place for them and people who use them but with light neck tension I just don't trust them. But on a more practical note I tend to use powders that match the load I'm shooting and don't like playing powder games that lead to compressed loads.
Thanks again for watching and contributing.
@@FClassJohn Thank you for the great feedback and quick reply John! Much appreciated sir!
@@FClassJohn The one other question I had which I posted in another related question/answer thread you had going down below...
How much are you sizing the necks down with your sizing die? And then from there how much are you generally sizing them back up with the first pass through the mandrel and the second pass through the gauge pin?
@@chrishudson7817 For instance one of my chambers is a .320neck, I'll size with a .312 bushing and then back up with a .283 mandrel and then a .284 gage pin. But really you only need one expander. I would be fine just using the .284 gage pin.
@@FClassJohn Makes sense, thanks again!
Why the thrust washer on the shell plate? To make sure the shell plate is always completely seated?
To keep constant and smooth pressure on the shell plate.
@@FClassJohn I tried the thrust washer setup but I can't keep the ejector wire in place because it sits up higher over the thrust washer. The end that goes in the hole keeps popping out. Did you have that issue?
Switching from a Coax to doing everything on a 550. What’s needs to be done John?!
How do you get consistent shoulder bump on the 750?
By using the tips in the video with honing the shell plate and using the locked toolhead and floating rings.
All I’ve ever used is a Dillon powder measure.
I know you’re automated, but what’s the story on how it feeds powder?
You just set a longer dwell time at the top and manually drop powder each time. Once you get used to it you get in a rhythm and if for some reason there's a mistake you just pause the machine.
Would the thrust bearing work on the 550? Currently, I place my sizing die and mandrel die on opposite corners to try to balance the pressure.
You would have to get a different size but yes the concept is the same. But keep in mind I thrust bearing will only do so much to prevent pressure issues. But it does help quite a bit.
@@FClassJohn Cool, thanks! I might just try this out to see if it makes any improvements. My case neck concentricity already comes out pretty good, but this is a low cost change that could make it even better!
@@MB-yb8iz Uniquetek makes a complete kit too that you can check out.
@@FClassJohn Awesome, thanks!
Shoutout from @erikcortina you must be doing something right.
Is your tool head fastened to the press? It looks like there might be a theaded bolt in there.
Yes, it's the way this style works. The toolhead is locked down and the dies float.
@@FClassJohn Thank you John. For someone so good at something it's a treat to watch you help people out all the while being very humble and gracious.
What are the benefits to free floating dies?
The theory is that it allows the dies and brass to fully line up without inducing any error from mid-alignment since it’s a five stage shell plate.
The Thrustbearing did no good for me. The cartriges did not leave the press
I love being able to dump deep as well dude.. lol love your videos and yes, my wife is right. I'm a child