You always amaze me! I cur and split about 8 cords a year with a tractor mounted splitter which works very well for me. My days of splitting by hand are long gone. Looking forward to watching you build this project.
You didn't need to wait for the hydraulics to be set up to set your distance to your wedge. You could just open the ports on cylinder and pull the rod out to the end of the run. I have done that several times, sometimes it is hard to get it started but then the rod moves in and out somewhat easily. When done close the cylinder and restore the port caps.
Live oak is almost impossible to split. We had a splitter for our tractor and it would split the very small pieces but we bent the hydraulic shaft on a larger size live oak. That was the last time we split live oak.
Wouldn't the shear forces be distributed across all 4 bolts per side? If the steel plates are A36 too, you'll see those start to yield before the bolts too I'd imagine, so they'd deform into the remaining bolts distributing the forces.
Great start, I'll be watching this series. Will you provide a full parts/materials list and/or a total cost of this project? I'm just curious what the cost would be and interested in possibly making one of my own sometime.
Why do you put the push plate on top of the slider plate and not in front of the slider plate ? Won’t the slider plate put horizontal pressure on the bolts as it itself makes contact with the wood ? Making one my self and see most people putting the push plate on top of the slider rather then in front...why is that ?
ThatRandomGuy There always seems to be a better way to do something. This log splitter has been able to split live oak side ways in its present configuration and is working just fine for me.
Man, when it gets below 60F it is darn cold around here! Seriously, there are quite a few log splitters around. There are actually many fireplaces and woodstoves in my area. Also, a lot of restaurants/barbeques use wood for cooking as well locally. My primary use will be for barbeque and prepping.
The bolts that hold the push block on are fastened at 90 degrees to the force being applied. If the force exceeds 60% of the fasteners tensile strength they can fail or shear off.
@@homesteadprepper but they won't have force applied unless an opposite force is acting on the underside of the plate. To shear there must be an opposing force, I can't see one.
@@AWAradiola Imagine if there were no bolts holding the push block on the I beam. When a log is being split that is not 100% parallel to the force applied, it will want to move up and down or side to side or a combination of both. For every action there is an equal and opposite reaction. So there would be potential movement in the x,y or z axis on the hydraulic ram to counter the opposing force. If the ram were to be moved side to side(x axis) it would cause a shearing force on the bolts that hold the push block to the I beam. You could build your own log splitter with one 6-32 machine screw on both sides of the push block instead of the 1/2 inch grade 8 bolts that I used to confirm this but, I don't recommend it for safety reasons when they shear off.
@@homesteadprepper Thanks for taking the time too explain, i appreciate it. When you say shear, I understood it to mean cut, not pull apart which is what you'd be doing if the ram wanted to rise. Since your ram will be secured along the barrel AND since it is on center with the push block which is hugging the flange of the beam the chances of a load in the x axis (side to side) or up direction are greatly reduced to the point that the bolts are really just there to keep the guide plates in place. When i built one for my excavator i found the smaller the push block, the smaller x axis forces were that acted on it. ruclips.net/video/5-y2VmtZhlU/видео.html
Maybe it is a 5" bore cylinder? He didn't specify the outside diameter was 5". I have build a couple spitters as well as other hydraulic attachments, and I always see the cylinders advertised by bore.
You always amaze me! I cur and split about 8 cords a year with a tractor mounted splitter which works very well for me. My days of splitting by hand are long gone. Looking forward to watching you build this project.
Thank you Sir. Hand splitting gets old fast especially, with tough wood.
subbed... 1st video ever watched here. this was a good one! your speaking to my inner engineer, talking sense and all that haha. going in for part 2!
Can't wait to see the finished and working project.
You and me both bro!
Personally, I would be making the blade removable. That way, you have the option of changing out the wedge tor various designs.
You didn't need to wait for the hydraulics to be set up to set your distance to your wedge. You could just open the ports on cylinder and pull the rod out to the end of the run. I have done that several times, sometimes it is hard to get it started but then the rod moves in and out somewhat easily. When done close the cylinder and restore the port caps.
damn that is one cool project looks like it's going to be very very very heavy duty
Thanks. I hope it will actually work and save some wear and tear on the old body!
Nice project, should chew right through that tough stuff.
Thanks bro. I hope it will save my back and shoulders!
rchopp
Live oak is almost impossible to split. We had a splitter for our tractor and it would split the very small pieces but we bent the hydraulic shaft on a larger size live oak. That was the last time we split live oak.
Wouldn't the shear forces be distributed across all 4 bolts per side? If the steel plates are A36 too, you'll see those start to yield before the bolts too I'd imagine, so they'd deform into the remaining bolts distributing the forces.
is this the misterious project I have been waiting on. lol. That will come in handy though.
Actually, the "mysterious" project is on hold for now. lol
well i guess i am a bit late . but looks good . john
Great start, I'll be watching this series. Will you provide a full parts/materials list and/or a total cost of this project? I'm just curious what the cost would be and interested in possibly making one of my own sometime.
Thanks. I will do a cost breakdown with options when the project finishes up.
super
thanks
Nice
Thank you.
Does that I beam 'twist' if you get a knarly piece of wood that won't split?
I didn't notice any twisting or bowing. ruclips.net/video/AnmK1dPkMPQ/видео.html
you need one of buckins axes
Why do you put the push plate on top of the slider plate and not in front of the slider plate ? Won’t the slider plate put horizontal pressure on the bolts as it itself makes contact with the wood ? Making one my self and see most people putting the push plate on top of the slider rather then in front...why is that ?
ThatRandomGuy There always seems to be a better way to do something. This log splitter has been able to split live oak side ways in its present configuration and is working just fine for me.
homesteadprepper I was just curious bc most splitters do what you did . Thanks for the information and the videos they helped a lot . Good work !
Oh, I bet that thing is going to work great. How are the tangerine trees and blueberry bushes?
Thanks.
Tangerine and blueberries are not doing well.
If you have 12", why would you only use 8?
log splitter in florida. i take it your going to sell it?
Man, when it gets below 60F it is darn cold around here!
Seriously, there are quite a few log splitters around.
There are actually many fireplaces and woodstoves in my area.
Also, a lot of restaurants/barbeques use wood for cooking as well locally.
My primary use will be for barbeque and prepping.
at 4:43 you talk about shear strength and how if it breaks it's gonna shear off. Can you please explain how that could happen?
The bolts that hold the push block on are fastened at 90 degrees to the force being applied. If the force exceeds 60% of the fasteners tensile strength they can fail or shear off.
@@homesteadprepper but they won't have force applied unless an opposite force is acting on the underside of the plate. To shear there must be an opposing force, I can't see one.
@@AWAradiola Imagine if there were no bolts holding the push block on the I beam. When a log is being split that is not 100% parallel to the force applied, it will want to move up and down or side to side or a combination of both. For every action there is an equal and opposite reaction. So there would be potential movement in the x,y or z axis on the hydraulic ram to counter the opposing force. If the ram were to be moved side to side(x axis) it would cause a shearing force on the bolts that hold the push block to the I beam. You could build your own log splitter with one 6-32 machine screw on both sides of the push block instead of the 1/2 inch grade 8 bolts that I used to confirm this but, I don't recommend it for safety reasons when they shear off.
@@homesteadprepper Thanks for taking the time too explain, i appreciate it. When you say shear, I understood it to mean cut, not pull apart which is what you'd be doing if the ram wanted to rise. Since your ram will be secured along the barrel AND since it is on center with the push block which is hugging the flange of the beam the chances of a load in the x axis (side to side) or up direction are greatly reduced to the point that the bolts are really just there to keep the guide plates in place. When i built one for my excavator i found the smaller the push block, the smaller x axis forces were that acted on it. ruclips.net/video/5-y2VmtZhlU/видео.html
Leave them to dry out and of course theyre going to be hard to split.
I will build a 10 gallon hyd.box because the one I have has a slow leak.
5 inch cylinder has roughly a 4.5 inch bore. At 3000 psi would give you about 24 ton
Maybe it is a 5" bore cylinder? He didn't specify the outside diameter was 5". I have build a couple spitters as well as other hydraulic attachments, and I always see the cylinders advertised by bore.
@@mikegroat7732 Thats me told.😆
where did you get the cylinder
Surplus Center.
Not count leveraging need to big bolt if lit wood on top of slide it pull back brake the first sit for bolt in time
Not tell you what to do I have the battle of hard knot building to learn what brake and build one to 10 way