Is the center conductor of the cable considered the hot leg to pass ac? what part.of the cable would be used for the neutral When passing AC from.the power supply to the line extenders
Yes, the center conductor, connectors, passives and actives have to be able to pass this power, 60 or 90 VAC semi-squarewave at currents up to 15A in old systems
A question? I have a pole on my property and there is a cable tap up there, it has 2 outputs one goes to my house the other one is empty. I want to tap into that empty port to feed cable to a garage separate from the house, but the cable used on the tal is much largher than my normal cable wire. What kind of wire do I need to connect to that tap? Thanks for any help. Cheers
An unused port at the tap should have a locking terminator on it to prevent illegal hookups. Your cable company may not take kindly to a DIY hookup to their tap. A cable with a poorly installed connector or even just loose can cause problems that will send an unhappy lineman to your pole (after he spends hours finding it). And is there a neighbor who might someday want service? With all that considered I have seen it done many times. Most companies use "RG6
Most used is RG6 cable with a messenger wire. It may be quad-sheild in some cases and can be very difficult to put a connector on without special tools and experience. Fatter yet would be RG11 with one to four sheild layers. 11 is used for longer runs. There is also an RG7 that look a lot like 11 but it is rare. RG6 is common and should be fine for a garage. Most sysems are encripted now a days so you likely need a cable box.
@@HillsWorkbench Yes I need a cable box and a modem. I already own a cable box that I pay for every month but is in a spare room and never gets used, so all I need it to rent an additional modem for wifi. I am having 100AMPS broth in to that pole and dropped to the garage and I figured since I will already have someone up there installing the electricity that is coming from the house and then down the pole to be in-ground, so I figure get it done at the same time.
Hello Mr. Hill. My internet sometimes disconnects when the temp drops. My modem shows return dBmV between 16-19 and my forward is around 43. When it's warm in El Paso, the return is around 12 and the forward stays about the same. I called a tech to the house in the winter and the tech said our signal was super hot and needed a line technician to correct the problem. The tech told me that the reason for the signal being so tilted was because they installed an AMP in front of my house and I'm the only one on it. The line technician showed up one evening and never went to the amp. Instead, he went to the side of our house and installed a 9 decibel attenuator and left. The forward signals are now in the mid fifties and the modem goes out regardless of temperature. I don't want to call again for fear of getting charged. What should I do? I feel like the line technician didn't do what he was supposed to and it took a long time for him to come out the first time.
I'm afraid I agree with you, except that what you call Forward and Return are opposite what they are called by the Cable Co. The 16 to 19dBmV is the forward, the broadband signal you are receiving. That is a bit high, a few modems don't like to see much over 0 dBmV, particularly some of the early Motorola DOCSIS 3 modems. The 43dBmV is the level you are transmitting back, which is in a good range with 46 being a common level to target. Anyway, if your levels were like 18 & 43, a 9dB pad should put you at 9 & 50, which should work. If your transmit level is climbing much beyond that, you may have a bad connection somewhere. A loose or corroded connection will drop the low end out, if your transmit levels are fluctuating, something is loose somewhere. Most modems max out at about 59 dB, give or take a couple. At any rate, there are automatic gain controls and "thermals" (AGC or TAG units) that can be installed at the appropriate upstream amp to control levels.
Hi, sorry if this is a daft question but what would happen if a catv coax cable is shorted say temporary or permanently? Say a strand from the braiding or the foil manages to touch the center conductor, what would happen, would things continue to work or would it be very obvious something is wrong? Thanks
A short on a cable knocks out high frequencies especially. If the short is complete it can stop all propagation of the signal further but usually, some low-end signals pass. A strong reflection occurs, reflecting signal back to its source. This will result in a lumpy frequency response even upstream all the way back to the last amp ahead. A Time Delay Reflectometer (TDR) can measure this reflection and give a distance to the fault.
In the old days, CATV services collected their channels from an array of large C-band dishes and an antenna tower. Then everything was processed so that all the channels leave the headend at the same level and all the audio carriers likewise controlled. Now in the digital age and digital channels, MSOs use master Headends to collect the channels, often with direct fiber links to most sources. Then fiber linked to regional headends and local hubs.
@StringerNews1 Yes, heard that 5G is a whole new TI nightmare for C band operators. Yes, a few small independents will still use an antenna farm, but most are disappearing. You can still run a small system off a couple C band dishes using HITS service.
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
I thought it was extremely interesting and I absolutely love the video I want to be a networking engineer so I love this stuff
I thought this was interesting. I can see why upload speeds are limited unless you pay for the speed. I look forward to more on this topic.
Is the center conductor of the cable considered the hot leg to pass ac? what part.of the cable would be used for the neutral When passing AC from.the power supply to the line extenders
Yes, the center conductor, connectors, passives and actives have to be able to pass this power, 60 or 90 VAC semi-squarewave at currents up to 15A in old systems
I travel to an area that is still 450MHz, with DOCSIS in the FM band lol, Also near the same area theres a area thats 400MHz with no return.
A question? I have a pole on my property and there is a cable tap up there, it has 2 outputs one goes to my house the other one is empty. I want to tap into that empty port to feed cable to a garage separate from the house, but the cable used on the tal is much largher than my normal cable wire. What kind of wire do I need to connect to that tap?
Thanks for any help.
Cheers
An unused port at the tap should have a locking terminator on it to prevent illegal hookups. Your cable company may not take kindly to a DIY hookup to their tap. A cable with a poorly installed connector or even just loose can cause problems that will send an unhappy lineman to your pole (after he spends hours finding it). And is there a neighbor who might someday want service? With all that considered I have seen it done many times. Most companies use "RG6
Most used is RG6 cable with a messenger wire. It may be quad-sheild in some cases and can be very difficult to put a connector on without special tools and experience. Fatter yet would be RG11 with one to four sheild layers. 11 is used for longer runs. There is also an RG7 that look a lot like 11 but it is rare. RG6 is common and should be fine for a garage. Most sysems are encripted now a days so you likely need a cable box.
@@HillsWorkbench Yes I need a cable box and a modem. I already own a cable box that I pay for every month but is in a spare room and never gets used, so all I need it to rent an additional modem for wifi. I am having 100AMPS broth in to that pole and dropped to the garage and I figured since I will already have someone up there installing the electricity that is coming from the house and then down the pole to be in-ground, so I figure get it done at the same time.
@@littleredhousehome Except that they are different skill sets so don't expect the electrician to do the cable work.
Hello Mr. Hill. My internet sometimes disconnects when the temp drops. My modem shows return dBmV between 16-19 and my forward is around 43. When it's warm in El Paso, the return is around 12 and the forward stays about the same. I called a tech to the house in the winter and the tech said our signal was super hot and needed a line technician to correct the problem. The tech told me that the reason for the signal being so tilted was because they installed an AMP in front of my house and I'm the only one on it. The line technician showed up one evening and never went to the amp. Instead, he went to the side of our house and installed a 9 decibel attenuator and left. The forward signals are now in the mid fifties and the modem goes out regardless of temperature. I don't want to call again for fear of getting charged. What should I do? I feel like the line technician didn't do what he was supposed to and it took a long time for him to come out the first time.
I'm afraid I agree with you, except that what you call Forward and Return are opposite what they are called by the Cable Co. The 16 to 19dBmV is the forward, the broadband signal you are receiving. That is a bit high, a few modems don't like to see much over 0 dBmV, particularly some of the early Motorola DOCSIS 3 modems. The 43dBmV is the level you are transmitting back, which is in a good range with 46 being a common level to target.
Anyway, if your levels were like 18 & 43, a 9dB pad should put you at 9 & 50, which should work. If your transmit level is climbing much beyond that, you may have a bad connection somewhere. A loose or corroded connection will drop the low end out, if your transmit levels are fluctuating, something is loose somewhere. Most modems max out at about 59 dB, give or take a couple.
At any rate, there are automatic gain controls and "thermals" (AGC or TAG units) that can be installed at the appropriate upstream amp to control levels.
@@HillsWorkbench I'd say a 12db cable sim would do the trick.
Hi, sorry if this is a daft question but what would happen if a catv coax cable is shorted say temporary or permanently? Say a strand from the braiding or the foil manages to touch the center conductor, what would happen, would things continue to work or would it be very obvious something is wrong?
Thanks
A short on a cable knocks out high frequencies especially. If the short is complete it can stop all propagation of the signal further but usually, some low-end signals pass. A strong reflection occurs, reflecting signal back to its source. This will result in a lumpy frequency response even upstream all the way back to the last amp ahead. A Time Delay Reflectometer (TDR) can measure this reflection and give a distance to the fault.
This would cause ingress on your line. It's not a short. It's just not cut right and let's in ingress and regress
If it’s cable, why do they say it works off a satellite
In the old days, CATV services collected their channels from an array of large C-band dishes and an antenna tower. Then everything was processed so that all the channels leave the headend at the same level and all the audio carriers likewise controlled. Now in the digital age and digital channels, MSOs use master Headends to collect the channels, often with direct fiber links to most sources. Then fiber linked to regional headends and local hubs.
@StringerNews1 Yes, heard that 5G is a whole new TI nightmare for C band operators.
Yes, a few small independents will still use an antenna farm, but most are disappearing. You can still run a small system off a couple C band dishes using HITS service.