Super clean outcome. I'll be doing this soon since my '86 is at 123K miles. (I'm assuming the previous owner had it replaced once before.) Thanks for the helpful vid.
Thanks for the video. Have you had any issues with any of the components in that gates timing belt kit? I've heard the tensioner and water pump that come with it are prone to fail.
The thing with all this is that the timing belt NEEDS to be installed at tdc with both lifter trays removed(becauuuuse this way the appropriate amount of tension is achieved.) Then go ahead and install lifter trays and use digital torque wrench and follow tightening procedure. These are steel bolts going into aluminum threads so be carefuls. But that would mean removing valve covers which means removing distributor not to mention upper plenum. Valve cover gaskets and new valve cover bolt seals while you're there. You might tear the valve cover breather hoses☠️. Find leaky vaccum or throttle body coolant hoses. Blow out spark plug holes PRIOR to removing them and clear all debris that falls in when you remove them and not notice. Then there's a chance you'll notice how you have naturally broken exhaust manifold studs/nuts. Something to address while your there. Get yellow zinc 30mm length 6x1.0 thread pitch bolt for the valve cover hardware. They come in 10mm heads and help instead or having iffy Philips screws that may or may not be tight because of the slip in the striped Phillip heads. Use orange permatex brand threadlock. If you remove the timing cover and check how much deflection at center between cam pulleys it might be floppier than sexy pasta. I like cars and the moves they make. 🏎️
It will run off a tooth in either direction. It may have a dead spot in rpm or strange idle. A compression test will give you an idea of how off the cam timing may be. The marks on your pulleys and cover should all line up. The best way to check the belt is to count how many belt teeth are from each mark to the next. 40 teeth between the cam pulleys, 43 between the driver side cam and the crank pulley. Check it, turn motor over by hand, check it again. Hope that helps!
@@CravingClassics I bought an M30 that would stumble but wouldn't start. The guy I bought it from was telling me about how he and his friend did a tune-up before it stopped running. I did a compression test before I bought it and all cylinders were around 150. I bought it assuming they botched the engine and ignition timing. Towed it and put it in the garage where it's sat for three years. Still haven't dug into it yet. It'll be fun seeing how bad they screwed up. The Champion Iridium plugs they installed, and as well as the garbage wiring job they did for the unnecessary replacement injector connectors are good indicators.
Hey great video. Very informative. Did you change the crankshaft seal also? I have a 86 Z and I’m in the process of doing the same thing. Where did you get your tensioner stud? I’m having a hard time finding one.
I see what you mean at 7:20. I showed NO.1 at TDC just to give an example of the distributor. This was before I degree the cams / crank. Shortly after at 8:10 you'll see both cams and crank are in line with NO. 1 at TDC.
I should probably do this on my ‘84… it’s only got 22k miles, but it still has the factory belt. I don’t entirely trust 40-year-old rubber. Also, I normally hate background music, but you’ve chosen something NOT annoying.
Outstanding! If I did this myself..I'd be nervous and shaking! Your calm demeanor is disarming!
Super clean outcome. I'll be doing this soon since my '86 is at 123K miles. (I'm assuming the previous owner had it replaced once before.) Thanks for the helpful vid.
why does the gushing auto freeze look so satisfying?! lol
Thanks for the video. Have you had any issues with any of the components in that gates timing belt kit? I've heard the tensioner and water pump that come with it are prone to fail.
No issues with it yet
The thing with all this is that the timing belt NEEDS to be installed at tdc with both lifter trays removed(becauuuuse this way the appropriate amount of tension is achieved.) Then go ahead and install lifter trays and use digital torque wrench and follow tightening procedure. These are steel bolts going into aluminum threads so be carefuls. But that would mean removing valve covers which means removing distributor not to mention upper plenum. Valve cover gaskets and new valve cover bolt seals while you're there. You might tear the valve cover breather hoses☠️. Find leaky vaccum or throttle body coolant hoses. Blow out spark plug holes PRIOR to removing them and clear all debris that falls in when you remove them and not notice. Then there's a chance you'll notice how you have naturally broken exhaust manifold studs/nuts. Something to address while your there. Get yellow zinc 30mm length 6x1.0 thread pitch bolt for the valve cover hardware. They come in 10mm heads and help instead or having iffy Philips screws that may or may not be tight because of the slip in the striped Phillip heads. Use orange permatex brand threadlock. If you remove the timing cover and check how much deflection at center between cam pulleys it might be floppier than sexy pasta. I like cars and the moves they make. 🏎️
@@dashiznit89blah blah blah
hey nice video, can you have the part list? I'm starting a 88 Z
Was this a turbo and roughly how long did it take you
NA , took around 8 - 10 hrs to complete , that includes cleaning and painting the parts.
Will the car not turn over if I have the timing off by a tooth?
It will run off a tooth in either direction. It may have a dead spot in rpm or strange idle. A compression test will give you an idea of how off the cam timing may be. The marks on your pulleys and cover should all line up. The best way to check the belt is to count how many belt teeth are from each mark to the next. 40 teeth between the cam pulleys, 43 between the driver side cam and the crank pulley. Check it, turn motor over by hand, check it again. Hope that helps!
@@CravingClassics I bought an M30 that would stumble but wouldn't start. The guy I bought it from was telling me about how he and his friend did a tune-up before it stopped running. I did a compression test before I bought it and all cylinders were around 150. I bought it assuming they botched the engine and ignition timing. Towed it and put it in the garage where it's sat for three years. Still haven't dug into it yet. It'll be fun seeing how bad they screwed up. The Champion Iridium plugs they installed, and as well as the garbage wiring job they did for the unnecessary replacement injector connectors are good indicators.
Hey great video. Very informative. Did you change the crankshaft seal also? I have a 86 Z and I’m in the process of doing the same thing. Where did you get your tensioner stud? I’m having a hard time finding one.
Thank you! The stud was ordered from the local Nissan dealer. Crank seal wasn't leaking, so I let it be.
Your Top dead center on the crank when you stated where the distributor is suppose to be pointing your crank is off
I see what you mean at 7:20. I showed NO.1 at TDC just to give an example of the distributor. This was before I degree the cams / crank. Shortly after at 8:10 you'll see both cams and crank are in line with NO. 1 at TDC.
that cone filter is more restrictive than the stock air filter!
I should probably do this on my ‘84… it’s only got 22k miles, but it still has the factory belt. I don’t entirely trust 40-year-old rubber.
Also, I normally hate background music, but you’ve chosen something NOT annoying.
Yeah I would definitely change it! The time has more effect than mileage on rubber most times. Thanks for watching 🤙
Dont need to lay fan clutch on its side they need to be upright all the time