Brake booster vacuum and IAC bleed should also be on a common rail linking all four runners (along with fuel pressure regulator vacuum and the MAP sensor). If you want to get picky, have them all connected at a common centre point and make the path to them equal length. This could all be done in some paths integrated in to the flange on the cylinder head. IAT does not need to be behind a throttle plate, just in the air stream. Adapting the factory TPS over to the bike throttles was definitely the long way around the problem. Both TPS sensors are voltage dividers and do exactly the same thing. All you needed to do was probe them both with a multimeter to determine which wires to connect to which for 0v, signal, and 5v, then connect them with any generic connector. A 3 pin DTM for example...or even do it without a connector. Just join the factory car wires to the wires that came with the bike TPS. Concerned about not being able to put the factory intake back on? Also pin it to the 3 pin DTM, or don't cut the factory connector off. Have both connectors wired in parallel. You'll never have both plugged in so it will never be a problem. Your method may have solved sensor calibration issues. This could have been tested with cheap obd scanner looking at the TPS values with the bike TPS plugged in in the same manner you test started it. I can't see if you connected two wires to your IAT sensor or not, it looked like just one (right before the footage was sped up) but it also looks like you ran two black wires to it, and two red wires to the MAP box. Incase you don't know, the IAT and MAP sensor share a common sensor ground pin in the factory sensor. The IAT is not a one wire sensor, nor is the MAP sensor 2 wires. MAP sensors are also voltage dividers (just like TPS) so they also require 5v, 0v and have a signal output. BRAP is a rotary noise ITBs make DORTs
That was a great video. LOL... Cant wait to see your face when you get it back on the road. Nothing like the bark of twin side draft Webers, but you'll be close with your set-up. Truly amazing work and content. Im keen to do the same thing to my Kent 1700, with Kent 244 cam and twin DCOE Webers. I learnt so much in one video, then again I knew F all about this conversion. When you're eking out every last Hp from a Kent 1700, this conversion will make a huge difference. On paper my engine can produce 187hp, thats taking in, flow bench figures, compression(11.5:1), piston volume(flat head Kent), cam, valve size and bore size(90 tho over). Lets be straight... Tuning DCOE Webers is an art.. and not cheap, you need to replace so many parts. Jets, emulsion tube, chokes, etc.... $$$$$ Not to mention tools needed to tune them like vacuum gauges, infrared camera, etc. Love to go full stand alone engine management in the future. : )
187hp from a 1700crossflow?! That would be legendary horsepower (and a very lumpy cam! 😂) Glad you enjoyed the vid, and I don’t want to spoil the vibe but the story doesn’t end well 😬😭
You had me worried at the beginning. Just sitting down and talking to the camera... I thought you were going to say that something bad happened and there were huge setbacks and personal issues or whatever... Lol
Great video. The printing side of these videos is fantastic. I’m hoping you’ll keep including the 3d printing and eventually go through how you set your printer up as it’s certainly something i’d like to try myself. Keep up the good work!
I have a couple of last tweaks to make to it, part cooling needs some work (you’ll see in the next episode) but I’ll definitely do a bit of a special on it in the near future… 👍
I believe that the secondary throttle butterflies are to improve driveability at low main throttle opening angles. One of the biggest challenges with ITBs is the "tip in" fuelling when the throttle is cracked open. Good progress anyway, I look forward to your video on your 3d printer as this is something I need to get into soon for my project!
Thanks for posting all you do, it’s truly a game changer for me now that I’ve seen your ended 3 and what it can do. I’ve already started printing my own engine components for my land speed racing bikes! You’ll be hearing from me again sir! Good to see ya again!
The Ender gets some bad press but I am convinced most of that it from non-technical people expecting to work like a coffee machine (they shoulda bought a Prusa!). It’d great to hear more about the land speeder…. Sounds ace!
I couldn’t get my head round the intake… it just seems so ornate and unnecessary…. But then I am bloke in my garage and Ford is one of the largest companies in the world sooo 🤷♂️
Incredible the fact that started immediately I always wanted to install ITBs on my mom's ford escort MK5 It sounds like an angry beehive already so I wonder what the ITBs will make it sound like This guide is giving me the confidence and knowledge I need to achieve that
Hopefully the latest video hasn’t disappointed! Using a standard Ecu will always be a compromise, really you need to tune, and/or change the load sensing methodology so the ITBs run at their best 👍
@@MakingforMotorsport Also, at the garage I'm working on I was digging through the scrap pile when I found the throttle body of a 1.0 engine I looked at it and it seems pretty simple, three bolt holes to mount it at what ever surface and a stepper motor that drives the shaft of the throttle Feels like I could get 3 more of those, cut the stepper motor from them and join all of them to make myself a DIY ITB How insane does that sound out of curiosity and how viable could it become in a hypothethical case I would be insane enough to go through with that idea
This is the type of content I want to see on RUclips! Such a great video. Ps, did you ever do any stuff with Loughborough uni motor club and the Donington winter series back in circa 2015?
Funny you mention that, I am a member of LoughboughCarClub and have been around the winter series for a while… in fact i did Clerk of the Course duty for 2 of the 4 rounds this year…. (Can’t remember what I was doing in 2015 tho 🤔)
Looking at your scheme I think if you place the whole pressure plenum somewhere in between any ITB and its air filter, then the air going into the ITB would keep the plenum at the air temperature. It'll get both the pressure and the temp. reading fairly right
Hi there! To get the inlet pressure it needs to be on the engine side of the butterfly, but it will get a very lumpy signal in only 1 runner, you do need to give in vacuum from all 4 to get a sensible average 👍
@@MakingforMotorsport I meant to keep the pressure hoses for pressure signal. It is the same air that runs from the filter into the cylinder and I do not expect the butterfly to change the its temperature. (maybe temporarily when going quickly off the throttle). Thus placing the whole pressure plenum anywhere along the air flow should give reasonably accurate temp. reading. I admit the reading would lag due to thermal momentum of the pressure plenum. I enjoy your videos a lot, keep your great work up.
@@zedjag7701 if I was measuring airflow, using a MAF sensor, you’d be absolutely right, the amount of air doesn’t change. However in this system, using air pressure, it is the throttle butterfly combined with the running engine that gives the pressure drop. Anything atmosphere side of the throttle plate is at atmospheric pressure and anything engine side is at intake pressure. As it goes I have had to redesign all of this… next video coming soon 😀
Nice work man! =D Looking forward to how the map setup copes with driving+WOT! Got my M42 running good this round, also on stock stuff. But i run a AFM and full filtered Intake. So not even close in sound rn but working pretty well even at WOT =D ...have a look if you like: ruclips.net/video/OdWPkFzQtQg/видео.html After comparing the ITBs vs stock on airflow with a MAF i am thinking about having an arduino simulate the AFM based on TPS an see if i can fake alpha N and get the sound back =D
Great stuff. Well put together, just the right amount of content. Explained it all very well. What would the life span of that material be before the petrol and heat got to it.
I attempted to run my duratec on a 3d printed manifold and stock ecu with the map sensor badly connected. It started and didn't sound too bad but it also wasn't that keen lol.
13:36 i see you got some HV blue cables is it a carbon fibre type? ignition is really important when you change sparks for example low resistances a power of spark and speed of ignition mixture change.
I cannot believe that it not only started, but also responded. I wouldn't have guessed it. Please tell me that next is to get the puma engine in and on itbs and with the oem ecu.
Great work as always, if more people designed printed manifolds properly like yours they would be more successful, and not designing it like it would be made of aluminum, thick and sturdy is the key :)
@@MakingforMotorsport Haha, good description of the complete mess with the lizard. Re bought and got some shipping info, but my hopes are set low. Im out of the train wreck lizard group on FB, so im not in the loop any more. Had lots of fun projects that have been put on hold where i planend to use the scanner, hopefully soon.
@@garagecedric to be honest, the whole CF around the lizard killed my mojo and a big reason why I haven’t been creating. It all left a bad taste. Now there is some resolution I do feel better about the whole thing. I am planning to do some more scanning videos, some showing workflows and maybe a comparison to the Pop2.
@@MakingforMotorsport i can fully understand that, whish they just sold it via preorder and skipped the dodgy KS thing. Anyway i look forward to more of your scanning videos, the possibilities are great for this kind of hobby.
@@MakingforMotorsport I bought the Lizard based on your vid. Endured the whole PITA that it became, got refunded and re-ordered at the same price and it arrived around July. I haven't even taken it out of the box I got so disenchanted by the whole mess; it's been relegated from "uber-excited to get it" to "I'll get to it at some point". Shame really.
O would think that you could plug the stock map/air temp plug into a splitter pigtail and attach it to both sensors. Does the original intake have an air bleed idle air control valve?
One of the big wins here is the injectors in the head. For high revs injectors further away would be better but the tune is likely so far out on this I don’t think I’ll see the difference
What were your 3d printer settings as far as number of wall layers, number of floor and roof layers, thickness, infill density and infill type? Thanks!
That one is fairly simple, you just need to route all the air the engine gets (including idle air) through the MAF. From there it deals with it. It’s abit more work but I think it’s likely to get more success than the MAP method….
Those fasteners on the ITBs are probably JIS screws, which is why they rounded over. Many Japanese bikes use this fastener, and that's where the myth of the weak Japanese fasteners comes from, people are just the wrong screwdriver. A Phillips screwdriver will not seat correctly, and round it over.
I cover it in the next video but I didn’t use it, just used the static setting. This is only a temporary solution and it’s summer so I didn’t see the point in wasting the time…
They're being a bastard because they're not Philips screws, they're a weird Japanese invention called JIC which looks Philips but are very much not, hence why they never come undone :(
What wall thickness do you use for the intake runners? I’ve been designing an intake manifold that I plan on printing with cf nylon, figure your one of the best people to ask for a starting point
Hi there, I don’t have any rule of thumb so this other than make it as sturdy as you can because 1. It’s much weaker than ally, 2. It reduces leaks and 3. The nylon is good with heat but all plastics soften, maybe only slightly but they do. I’ll try and get a measurement tonight
It could work, but it’s might be tricky because… -most manifolds are aluminium, which makes welding trickier, not impossible if you have the kit and skills but… tricky What I did initially was scanned a gasket, traced out a CAD drawing, then got a flange plasma cut for about £20 from steel. Then I just got some tube the right diameter, chopped it up and re-welded it 👍👍👍
Hi man, as a result of your recommendation I've downloaded Fusion 360! Much less clunky than FreeCAD 👍 how do you export your files from Fusion 360? The latest version seems to have removed the option to export as dxf...
@@MakingforMotorsport Interesting 🤔 is yours a paid or student version? Mine's the basic free one. I've been able to export technical drawings to PDF by printing it to a PDF writer, but the lack of DXF exporting rather limits its utility!
@@BiTurbo228 yeah mine is the full version but .dxf and .dwg creation wasn’t limited as I recall. Try right clicking on the sketch in the feature tree on the left? That’s how I export .stl meshes, it may be the same for .dxf
I was going to say the same thing. My reason for this is to not disturb the airflow in the runner that it's fitted to. From what I have seen that is a common place to have AIT-sensor when using ITB's. But it would be fun to see if the reading of the sensor would be different in the runner or on the filter backing plate.
@@7rib3rg yes, testing is always best =D i think it could even be ok to have the iat just somewhere close to the trumpets end and read there. Its gonna be way more critical to get that MAP-Signal vs Volumetric efficiency right, so that the ECU has a fighting chance of knowing the Airflow.
I love this channel, i don't care if i have to wait 2 months for a new video
Hopefully you’ll not have to again! Back in the groove! 👍
100 percent facts. High quality video production and it's awesome 😎
Brake booster vacuum and IAC bleed should also be on a common rail linking all four runners (along with fuel pressure regulator vacuum and the MAP sensor). If you want to get picky, have them all connected at a common centre point and make the path to them equal length. This could all be done in some paths integrated in to the flange on the cylinder head.
IAT does not need to be behind a throttle plate, just in the air stream.
Adapting the factory TPS over to the bike throttles was definitely the long way around the problem. Both TPS sensors are voltage dividers and do exactly the same thing. All you needed to do was probe them both with a multimeter to determine which wires to connect to which for 0v, signal, and 5v, then connect them with any generic connector. A 3 pin DTM for example...or even do it without a connector. Just join the factory car wires to the wires that came with the bike TPS. Concerned about not being able to put the factory intake back on? Also pin it to the 3 pin DTM, or don't cut the factory connector off. Have both connectors wired in parallel. You'll never have both plugged in so it will never be a problem. Your method may have solved sensor calibration issues. This could have been tested with cheap obd scanner looking at the TPS values with the bike TPS plugged in in the same manner you test started it.
I can't see if you connected two wires to your IAT sensor or not, it looked like just one (right before the footage was sped up) but it also looks like you ran two black wires to it, and two red wires to the MAP box. Incase you don't know, the IAT and MAP sensor share a common sensor ground pin in the factory sensor. The IAT is not a one wire sensor, nor is the MAP sensor 2 wires. MAP sensors are also voltage dividers (just like TPS) so they also require 5v, 0v and have a signal output.
BRAP is a rotary noise
ITBs make DORTs
That was a great video.
LOL... Cant wait to see your face when you get it back on the road.
Nothing like the bark of twin side draft Webers, but you'll be close with your set-up.
Truly amazing work and content.
Im keen to do the same thing to my Kent 1700, with Kent 244 cam and twin DCOE Webers.
I learnt so much in one video, then again I knew F all about this conversion.
When you're eking out every last Hp from a Kent 1700, this conversion will make a huge difference.
On paper my engine can produce 187hp, thats taking in, flow bench figures, compression(11.5:1), piston volume(flat head Kent), cam, valve size and bore size(90 tho over).
Lets be straight... Tuning DCOE Webers is an art.. and not cheap, you need to replace so many parts.
Jets, emulsion tube, chokes, etc.... $$$$$
Not to mention tools needed to tune them like vacuum gauges, infrared camera, etc.
Love to go full stand alone engine management in the future.
: )
187hp from a 1700crossflow?! That would be legendary horsepower (and a very lumpy cam! 😂)
Glad you enjoyed the vid, and I don’t want to spoil the vibe but the story doesn’t end well 😬😭
I love this! Those first dorts were so satisfying. Can't wait for more updates.
Oh it sings! Next video already in the edit 👌
@@MakingforMotorsport ...more excited about this than 24H Norschschleife this weekend ;)
22K subs is criminally low for such quality content
I totally agree 😂😂😂😂
nice 2strokestuffing intro there. I see you too are a man of culture
Gotta give him props…. One crazy Viking that fella!
@@MakingforMotorsport absolute nut, truly channeling burt munro. Just MAKE stuff and see if it works.
I was looking for this, glad someone noticed!
Been looking to this video for ages nicely done
I’ve been procrastinating…. Glad to get it out….
(And ssshhhh🤫 I’ve driving it tonight 😁)
About time ! Felt like a eternity waiting for this video 🤣 good job 👏 love it
I know!!! Glad to be back in the RUclips swing!
This channel is amazing. Damn, you really sweat the details. Love it.
Cheers bud, glad you are enjoying it!
Channeling your inner 2strokestuffing at the beginning there.
Great to see a new episode on the Siesta
Everyone has (or should have ) an inner Alex! The man’s a legend!
Very impressed. Worth the wait. Keen to see and hear the BRAAPPPP on the road
It’s been on the road and 😁…. Many BRAAAARPS were had 👌
You had me worried at the beginning. Just sitting down and talking to the camera... I thought you were going to say that something bad happened and there were huge setbacks and personal issues or whatever... Lol
Great video. The printing side of these videos is fantastic. I’m hoping you’ll keep including the 3d printing and eventually go through how you set your printer up as it’s certainly something i’d like to try myself. Keep up the good work!
I have a couple of last tweaks to make to it, part cooling needs some work (you’ll see in the next episode) but I’ll definitely do a bit of a special on it in the near future… 👍
I believe that the secondary throttle butterflies are to improve driveability at low main throttle opening angles. One of the biggest challenges with ITBs is the "tip in" fuelling when the throttle is cracked open. Good progress anyway, I look forward to your video on your 3d printer as this is something I need to get into soon for my project!
Yeah, I get that, especially on a motorbike, I thought it was some kind of simple torque limiter or anti-wheely system…. Either way, out it comes!!!
Thanks for posting all you do, it’s truly a game changer for me now that I’ve seen your ended 3 and what it can do. I’ve already started printing my own engine components for my land speed racing bikes! You’ll be hearing from me again sir! Good to see ya again!
The Ender gets some bad press but I am convinced most of that it from non-technical people expecting to work like a coffee machine (they shoulda bought a Prusa!).
It’d great to hear more about the land speeder…. Sounds ace!
Beautiful work! I've just done the IAT and Coolant temp sensor on my flatmates Ford Ka, very strangely assembled little car!
I couldn’t get my head round the intake… it just seems so ornate and unnecessary….
But then I am bloke in my garage and Ford is one of the largest companies in the world sooo 🤷♂️
@@MakingforMotorsport The intake is pure silliness; and the flippen guards are welded to the car! And it's a flippen Pushrod?!
Been waiting for this, can't believe how far you've come in with this.
I can’t believe how long this has taken!!! 😂😂😂
Excellent work mate.
Cheers bud! Next one coming soon!
Hell yeah! I was really waiting for this video to come up! Brilliant work.
Cheers buddy, I’ve had this vid over my head for a while but enjoying it now!
Bro you should have 500K subs. Legend!
Cheers bud, that’s very kind… I’d be over joyed with 50k to be fair!
love it !!!!! great result !!!!
Cheers bud
Excellent technical explanation.
Always fun to see one of the channels I follow follow another I watch (Rick Beato in the background).
I love Rick Beato (I usually have him in the background, along with David Bennet Piano, Adam Neely and George Collier-if I feel brave!😂).
Grand daddy of the diy itbs. Also the esun epacf is great stuff like you said. I used it to make my itb manifold too.
I’ll take that title! Fantastic filament, what car you got yours on?
@@MakingforMotorsport sitting on a 4age in a ra23 celica. Just waiting for Nick Hay's speeduino/display all in one to come out.
Heck yeah! Keep them coming! I am patient. As always have fun!
Cheers bud, glad to get this out and get it running…
Incredible the fact that started immediately
I always wanted to install ITBs on my mom's ford escort MK5
It sounds like an angry beehive already so I wonder what the ITBs will make it sound like
This guide is giving me the confidence and knowledge I need to achieve that
Hopefully the latest video hasn’t disappointed! Using a standard Ecu will always be a compromise, really you need to tune, and/or change the load sensing methodology so the ITBs run at their best 👍
@@MakingforMotorsport thankfully my mom's escort is carbureted, gonna go from 59 HP to hopefully 60, crossing fingers 🤞
@@aarontena bike carbs are an easy add-on! I had some on the mini from a fzr600, drilled the main jet out to 1.5mm… ran like a dream.
@@MakingforMotorsport Also, at the garage I'm working on I was digging through the scrap pile when I found the throttle body of a 1.0 engine
I looked at it and it seems pretty simple, three bolt holes to mount it at what ever surface and a stepper motor that drives the shaft of the throttle
Feels like I could get 3 more of those, cut the stepper motor from them and join all of them to make myself a DIY ITB
How insane does that sound out of curiosity and how viable could it become in a hypothethical case I would be insane enough to go through with that idea
Cracking video as ever!
Cheers bud! Next one on it’s way! 😁
Awesome , love it
So impressed.
Cheers bud, just an idiot messing around on the interweb!
Thanks for another ripper! CF nylon looks slick af!
It is lovely stuff and the printer is nicely dialled in for it 👍
Great stuff - love the ingenuity and the approach - really well explained too. One of my fav channels (you and superfastmatt)!
Cheers buddy, I do enjoy abit of Superfast too…. All hail the algorithm! 👍
Thank you for your videos
No problems…. Thank you for watching
Most excellent as per....keep up the great work..... Cheers
Cheers buddy
Nice work!
Cheers bud!
ITB's !!! Can't wait to hear those sweet /braap braap braaps/ out in the wild 😜
It’s coming… release tomorrow 👍
@@MakingforMotorsport perfect, thanks bud👌👌
superb
Brap Brap BRAAPP cant wait to see it driving!
It’s coming!
This is the type of content I want to see on RUclips! Such a great video. Ps, did you ever do any stuff with Loughborough uni motor club and the Donington winter series back in circa 2015?
Funny you mention that, I am a member of LoughboughCarClub and have been around the winter series for a while… in fact i did Clerk of the Course duty for 2 of the 4 rounds this year…. (Can’t remember what I was doing in 2015 tho 🤔)
Love this! Good job and keep going.
Cheers bud, plenty planned!
Looking at your scheme I think if you place the whole pressure plenum somewhere in between any ITB and its air filter, then the air going into the ITB would keep the plenum at the air temperature. It'll get both the pressure and the temp. reading fairly right
Hi there! To get the inlet pressure it needs to be on the engine side of the butterfly, but it will get a very lumpy signal in only 1 runner, you do need to give in vacuum from all 4 to get a sensible average 👍
@@MakingforMotorsport I meant to keep the pressure hoses for pressure signal. It is the same air that runs from the filter into the cylinder and I do not expect the butterfly to change the its temperature. (maybe temporarily when going quickly off the throttle). Thus placing the whole pressure plenum anywhere along the air flow should give reasonably accurate temp. reading. I admit the reading would lag due to thermal momentum of the pressure plenum.
I enjoy your videos a lot, keep your great work up.
@@zedjag7701 if I was measuring airflow, using a MAF sensor, you’d be absolutely right, the amount of air doesn’t change. However in this system, using air pressure, it is the throttle butterfly combined with the running engine that gives the pressure drop. Anything atmosphere side of the throttle plate is at atmospheric pressure and anything engine side is at intake pressure.
As it goes I have had to redesign all of this… next video coming soon 😀
great stuff as always
Cheers bud… getting back into this YT hrrove
Nice work man! =D
Looking forward to how the map setup copes with driving+WOT!
Got my M42 running good this round, also on stock stuff. But i run a AFM and full filtered Intake. So not even close in sound rn but working pretty well even at WOT =D
...have a look if you like: ruclips.net/video/OdWPkFzQtQg/видео.html
After comparing the ITBs vs stock on airflow with a MAF i am thinking about having an arduino simulate the AFM based on TPS an see if i can fake alpha N and get the sound back =D
That video is great! And the modelling is fantastically detailed! Loving the work… more!!!!!!!
Great stuff. Well put together, just the right amount of content. Explained it all very well. What would the life span of that material be before the petrol and heat got to it.
I attempted to run my duratec on a 3d printed manifold and stock ecu with the map sensor badly connected. It started and didn't sound too bad but it also wasn't that keen lol.
MAP sensor connection is fairly critical (as I have found out 😂), but the festa is pumping with the new setup (next vid on its way)
Awesome work
Cheers bud
Awesome video again! What is your bed adhesion method? I’m modifying my CR10s to print carbon/nylon. Thanks.
For nylon I use a glass sheet with glue stick.
For everything else I use my PEI flex steel sheet. I keep it clean with IPA wipes and it’s good to go!
I watched part 1 for the second time a a day or two ago.
Double watching?! That is above and beyond! I can barely stomach watching it once 😂
Yeah total coincidence, I had it in my downloads hence the double watch, Imagine how stoked I was to see part 2 pop up.
My eyes are peeled.
More coming soon!
13:36 i see you got some HV blue cables is it a carbon fibre type? ignition is really important when you change sparks for example low resistances a power of spark and speed of ignition mixture change.
I cannot believe that it not only started, but also responded. I wouldn't have guessed it.
Please tell me that next is to get the puma engine in and on itbs and with the oem ecu.
Seriously. A couple of turns on the idle control screw from full closed and it purrs like a kitten…. 🤯
Great work as always, if more people designed printed manifolds properly like yours they would be more successful, and not designing it like it would be made of aluminum, thick and sturdy is the key :)
Cheers Cedric, you’re absolutely right! Good news on the lizard clusterfuck. Have you re bought?
@@MakingforMotorsport Haha, good description of the complete mess with the lizard. Re bought and got some shipping info, but my hopes are set low. Im out of the train wreck lizard group on FB, so im not in the loop any more. Had lots of fun projects that have been put on hold where i planend to use the scanner, hopefully soon.
@@garagecedric to be honest, the whole CF around the lizard killed my mojo and a big reason why I haven’t been creating. It all left a bad taste.
Now there is some resolution I do feel better about the whole thing.
I am planning to do some more scanning videos, some showing workflows and maybe a comparison to the Pop2.
@@MakingforMotorsport i can fully understand that, whish they just sold it via preorder and skipped the dodgy KS thing. Anyway i look forward to more of your scanning videos, the possibilities are great for this kind of hobby.
@@MakingforMotorsport I bought the Lizard based on your vid. Endured the whole PITA that it became, got refunded and re-ordered at the same price and it arrived around July. I haven't even taken it out of the box I got so disenchanted by the whole mess; it's been relegated from "uber-excited to get it" to "I'll get to it at some point". Shame really.
O would think that you could plug the stock map/air temp plug into a splitter pigtail and attach it to both sensors. Does the original intake have an air bleed idle air control valve?
Great taste in whiskey! 💪
Normally a rum drinker… but this stuff is nice!
@@MakingforMotorsport especially at £20 odd at Waitrose! 🥃😁
try the injector on the bike's position, maybe the top end will be great
One of the big wins here is the injectors in the head. For high revs injectors further away would be better but the tune is likely so far out on this I don’t think I’ll see the difference
Very well done! Do you by chance have a link to the printer filament you used to print your manifold adapter?
Thanks!
I’ll add one to the description 👍
What were your 3d printer settings as far as number of wall layers, number of floor and roof layers, thickness, infill density and infill type? Thanks!
Any chance I can get the stl file from you for my fiesta 😂😂
What extruder are you running on your Ender 3? I've given up on so many prints because of my filament being chewed. 😅
Just out of interest how were you planning on doing this if it had a MAF instead of a MAP sensor?
That one is fairly simple, you just need to route all the air the engine gets (including idle air) through the MAF. From there it deals with it.
It’s abit more work but I think it’s likely to get more success than the MAP method….
@@MakingforMotorsport and less sound when i put the AFM, airbox and filter on!
@@_coffeeandcigars In this case, a plenum would be required/more suitable? I had wondered what the vacuum bungs were for. Cheers!
Great channel.
Did u get a pulsating brake pedal?
Cheers bud, had no issue with the brake pedal, servo behaved itself
i love you man!, what bike are those itbs from? and what size?
Cheers bud, I love you too! 😂. These are from a zx6r and I think the butterfly’s are around 36mm… so not huge but plenty big enough
Those fasteners on the ITBs are probably JIS screws, which is why they rounded over. Many Japanese bikes use this fastener, and that's where the myth of the weak Japanese fasteners comes from, people are just the wrong screwdriver. A Phillips screwdriver will not seat correctly, and round it over.
Yeah, a couple have said JIS spec fasteners and I definitely don’t that driver… the drill and chisel seems the right spec tho! 😂
How did you wore the tps I’m struggling to find a diagram for the wiring to do mine !
Thumbs Up m8!
Cheer bud 👍👍👍
What did you do for idle control plumbing please?
Great video. All hail the algorithm. LoL.
I can only worship the digital gods and hope it smiles upon me…. Maybe it requires a sacrifice?
Awesomme.....i build ITB (cheap project) :D
I’m currently doing this to my 2005 Honda civic and I’m struggling with how I should sort the iacv can anyone help?
What what the solution for idle control?
Did you build it into the Map plenum? Or just set a static one on the ITB's?
I cover it in the next video but I didn’t use it, just used the static setting. This is only a temporary solution and it’s summer so I didn’t see the point in wasting the time…
They're being a bastard because they're not Philips screws, they're a weird Japanese invention called JIC which looks Philips but are very much not, hence why they never come undone :(
The whole car was being a bastard at that point! 😂
I believe it's actually JIS, JIC is a 37 degree flare fitting.
@@ndog1234765 that's the puppy, knew it was close ;)
What wall thickness do you use for the intake runners? I’ve been designing an intake manifold that I plan on printing with cf nylon, figure your one of the best people to ask for a starting point
Hi there, I don’t have any rule of thumb so this other than make it as sturdy as you can because 1. It’s much weaker than ally, 2. It reduces leaks and 3. The nylon is good with heat but all plastics soften, maybe only slightly but they do.
I’ll try and get a measurement tonight
How are planning to secure the wiring ? 3d printed plugs ?
To be honest, if this becomes a permanent addition I’ll likely chop the harness about.
if i had a cast manifold could i cut it so i can fit the motorbike itb's onto it then fab from there
It could work, but it’s might be tricky because…
-most manifolds are aluminium, which makes welding trickier, not impossible if you have the kit and skills but… tricky
What I did initially was scanned a gasket, traced out a CAD drawing, then got a flange plasma cut for about £20 from steel. Then I just got some tube the right diameter, chopped it up and re-welded it 👍👍👍
how about drive bye wire car?
Hmmmm🤔…. It’s on the list!
Could you send a link to download the 3d file? I'll understand if you do not want to share it
I’ll put them in Thingiverse…
Hi man, as a result of your recommendation I've downloaded Fusion 360! Much less clunky than FreeCAD 👍 how do you export your files from Fusion 360? The latest version seems to have removed the option to export as dxf...
Not at my computer right now but when in a sketch I am pretty sure you can export or save as then… will check later 👍
@@MakingforMotorsport Interesting 🤔 is yours a paid or student version? Mine's the basic free one.
I've been able to export technical drawings to PDF by printing it to a PDF writer, but the lack of DXF exporting rather limits its utility!
@@BiTurbo228 yeah mine is the full version but .dxf and .dwg creation wasn’t limited as I recall.
Try right clicking on the sketch in the feature tree on the left? That’s how I export .stl meshes, it may be the same for .dxf
As a Spaniard I am very satisfied and offended
Then I think it’s been pitched perfectly! 😂👌
Air temp sensor - put it in the air filter backing plate = senses an average of intake temp. Def NOT in one intake runner.
Just gonna ask why?
open trumpets are love, open trumpets are life ;)
I was going to say the same thing. My reason for this is to not disturb the airflow in the runner that it's fitted to. From what I have seen that is a common place to have AIT-sensor when using ITB's.
But it would be fun to see if the reading of the sensor would be different in the runner or on the filter backing plate.
@@7rib3rg yes, testing is always best =D i think it could even be ok to have the iat just somewhere close to the trumpets end and read there. Its gonna be way more critical to get that MAP-Signal vs Volumetric efficiency right, so that the ECU has a fighting chance of knowing the Airflow.
Mabye ENGINE WASH!
Nah! Engines are meant to be oily…. Aren’t they?
should relase the stl for the vacuum manifold box thingy!
Yeah, I probably won’t and you’ll see why in the next video… needed some “revisions….”