How to setup an AKC Scent Work Novice Practice Area
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- Опубликовано: 31 окт 2020
- No one wants to be the handler with a dog that showed up to game day ill-prepared. In this episode, I show you how to set up an AKC Scent Work Novice practice area to prepare you for your next trial better. When getting started with scent work trials, aka “competitions,” one must first understand that there are two scent work trial divisions: 1) the odor search division where the dog searches for odor of essential oil and (2) the handler discrimination division. These are go/no-go events. So, you either qual or you don’t. You’re looking to the dog to communicate to the handler that the scent has been found. This indication is referred to as “a change in behavior” (I.e., pawing, lie down, nose to target, something like that). You can pretty much train for this anywhere, and I’m going to show you how just using some equipment lying around the house. I’m exaggerating, but you get the point.
Here’s our checklist...
- Our scent (for novice search work, we will use Birch)
- Our containers (for novice search work, the container should be identical, and we need 10 of them)
- The arrangement should be two rows of 5
- Our spacing - 12” all around and 36” between rows (this is to allow for maximum accessibility for all persons and dogs with potential handicaps that require assistance devices)
- Our boundaries - at a minimum, you must mark the four corners of your search area. You can use things like tape, plastic fencing, chalk, flags, or anything else that’s capable of marking your search area
- Number of hides: for novice scent work, there should be no surprises. There will only be one known hide at this level
- Time limit: you’ve got two minutes to get ur’ done. That’s right; you’re on the clock, so make sure to practice accordingly
- Distractions: None, nada, zip! That’s right; the dogs have enough going on at this level without us interjecting any fodder (That’s right none-this course is for newbs!
- Required calls: this one is for you, the handler; you only need to call the alerts at this level (other calls might be to call a finish, for example, but worry about that down the road)
- So how big should it be? Well, about 200-400 square feet when all is said and done
So that’s it, team. That’s what you need to focus on to ready yourself for your first Novice trial.
Reference: AKC Scent Work, Chapter 7, Section 4 for class-specific requirements.
CHAPTERS
[00:16]: The checklist
[03:41]: The setup
[04:40]: 1st Run
[05:08]: 2nd Run
[05:41]: 3rd Run
[06:12]: 4th Run
[06:32]: 5th Run
[07:31]: Solo Search 1
[08:14]: Solo Search 2
[09:00]: Solo Search 3
[09:56]: Resources for Practice
📒 Show Notes and Resources 📒
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How to Prepare an Odor for (K9 Nose Work): • How to Prepare an Odor...
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Who Am I: Hi, my name is Geryah Dingle. I started training dogs in 2017 when I decided to make my passion a reality. At the time, I purchased my first subscription for Adobe CC and began filming, editing, and posting training and pet photography videos with my GSD, Disney, on my RUclips channel: Dingle Days. I train dogs and teach people in order to enable pets to best share in our lives.
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#dingledays #scentwork #k9nosework 
Животные
QUESTION OF THE DAY ⚡ How do you train scent work with you dog(s)? Let me know! ** 🎯 If you want to learn my best strategies for teaching your dog scent work, WATCH THIS RUclips video next ➡️ ruclips.net/video/7OMyVbuMnkM/видео.html
I don’t normally use clicker training, but my friends and I found that it did work really well for some dogs in the beginning training stages!
@@samanthafranklyput I think it really just boils down to the timing and consistency, whether one uses an actual “clicker” or the “marker word.” Charging whatever marker one decides to use provided that predictably for the dog and feeds his or her motivation to act out a particular behavior.
I use a plumbing object (it's like a Y drain plumbing equipment), and I put the odor down the end and when my dog puts her nose in there, i reward with food. I can reach my hand into the tube with food and reward her, then I slowly start waiting it out more for her to indicate longer.
@@kelliegunnis6419 yes, this is a tried and true method that’s very popular and effective. I try all types of shaping containers and tools to get the dog to generalize the concept. Good luck in your scent work journey!
I just searched this topic as you posted your video! So well done and informative for those of us who have practiced minimal scent work. Great job 👍🏼
I’m pleased that we could come in clutch at a time when you were searching for the topic! Thanks for stopping by the channel and, as always, more new pet content coming soon 😊
It’s great to see how one can train K9 Scent Work at home. It’s a really fun activity to bond with your dog and exploit those awesome scent receptors they have. Great job 👏 @dingledays and thanks for sharing!
So happy that you enjoyed the video! Scent Work is such a fun activity to train with your dog...besides, I think it could come in handy if you’re looking for something in particular that you’ve trained your dog 🐕 on.
Disney is such a good student! Love his ability to learn so quickly! Thanks for sharing as always DingleDays! 🐶
Thanks so much for the compliment! Disney is an awesome GSD. He loves when we train scent work because it’s one more opportunity for him to show his skills and earn some treats!
I LOVE how you explain everything! Very clear and helpful but entertaining too! Thanks!
Thank you so much! I’m glad we could be helpful to you in your Scent Work / Nose Work journey 😊
Really helpful video- it's nice to have clear handling of the dog and also clear, well-enunciated communication from the speaker. Rare to find both in dog training videos! Scentwork is an awesome sport and this is a very novice-friendly intro to it. Looking forward to competing with these tips in mind.
Thanks for the comment and stopping by the channel. Good luck in competition with your pup 🐶 Scent/Nosework can be a lot of fun and a great outing for the dog-handler team. Appreciate it!
I was having so much trouble making the jump from interior searches to containers and this video helped me (and my dog!) immensely. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge! She trials this weekend and I feel way more prepared now.
That’s awesome 👏 So glad the video was helpful. Well wishes for your trial this weekend, and thanks for tuning in to the channel 😊
Thank you for this! I am going to sign Juneau up for a Novice container run in October to get an idea of the trial environment but I still want to train leading up to it so this is super helpful!
Thanks for tuning in! I love your channel and I’m happy you found this video helpful. Happy training!
Very informative video, get straight to the point and exactly what I was looking for to understand difference between novice and other levels….thank you
Awesome! Glad you enjoyed the video and thanks for stopping by the channel 📺
Been subscribed to you since you first launched! Congrats on over 800 subs Dingle Days! Your channel is very informative and I have learned so many great canine training tips. Keep the videos coming!😀
Thanks so much for being among the original crew! It means so much as we progress in this RUclips journey. Glad we could be value added 😊
Great video! Disney is very cool😊
Thank you 😊
Thanks for sharing!
Thanks so much for stopping by the channel. We are delighted you enjoyed the content and received some value. Again, thanks for the support :)
Thank you
Thanks for stopping by the channel!
Awesome job, Disney!
Thanks so much! He appreciates the support for the channel 😊
You are awesome
Thanks so much!
Very nice video. Good content and video editing.
Thanks a lot…so glad you enjoyed the video and the editing! Thanks for stopping by the channel. 😊
Loved Disney search skills!
Thanks! He’s working at it each week 😊
Disney! I see you sis! I just started training my corso on scent work and found your channel. #NewSubbie! 😍🤗
That’s so great hear and I’m glad we could be a help in your scent work/nose work journey! We def appreciate the support and all the best to you and your corso!
Very good looking GSD.
Thank you very much.
I've been training our Rottweiler on Cash-, Corpse- and Live Victim scents using tennis balls. She's done well with games, tests and searches in general. We plan to use cinder blocks and 24 balls for distractors to fine-tune nosework. Seems to be good for discrimination-, stimulus generalization and response generalizations. Thank you for the video. :)
Awesome! I love to hear stories about dogs in practice using their noses with their handlers. Cinderblocks are excellent tools, especially for larger dogs that tend to disrupt the course in the early stages when you use boxes that are easily destroyed. Good luck in your scent work/nosework journey. Sounds exciting and proofing the behavior will def build consistency in the alert. Thanks for sharing 😊
I’m learning a lot and plan to begin with my Shihtzu Matilda!
That’s awesome. Good luck with your Scent Work journey!
Disney! ❤
Good boy Disney! 🐕 📦 Two paws up!🐾
Thanks for stopping by the channel!
Yay Disney!
Thanks for stopping by the channel 😊
Thank you so much for your videos! I find them excellent and have helped me and my little mini dachshund a ton! My question to you is how or what is the best way to clean the hides in order to reuse for other scents?? thank you
Hi @lynnmckinney7376! Thank you so much for your kind words and apologies for the delayed response. I’m glad to hear that my videos have been helpful for you and your mini dachshund! 🐾
When it comes to cleaning hides for reuse with other scents, here are some steps you can follow based on best practices in the scent work community:
1. Initial Cleaning: Start by washing the hides with hot water and a mild, unscented soap to remove any residues. Make sure to rinse them thoroughly to ensure no soap remains.
2. Disinfection: Soak the hides in a solution of one part white vinegar to three parts water for about 10-15 minutes. This helps to neutralize any remaining odors without leaving a strong scent.
3. Rinse and Dry: Rinse the hides thoroughly with clean water to remove any remaining vinegar solution. Allow them to air dry completely to prevent any mold or mildew growth.
4. Odor Neutralization: If there is still a lingering scent, place the hides in a container with baking soda for a few days. Baking soda is excellent at absorbing and neutralizing odors.
5. Storage: Once the hides are clean and odor-free, store them in an airtight container or zip-lock bags to prevent them from picking up any new scents before you’re ready to use them again.
These steps should help you effectively reuse your hides for different scent training sessions. This method is widely used and recommended within the scent work community, ensuring that your equipment remains clean and free of cross-contamination between different scents.
For more guidelines, you can search for resources provided by organizations like the National Association of Canine Scent Work (NACSW) and the American Kennel Club (AKC).
Thanks again for your question, and continue to get after it 🙌🏽
👍🏾
Disney, good job buddy!!!🤙🏽
Thanks 😊
I really appreciate your sharing all the good stuff and details about scents trail. I’m looking forward to participate but I don’t found a Club close to me ( Augusta, GA)
Thanks for the helpful videos! If you are moving the tin with the scent from one cardboard box to another, do you have to worry about scent contamination? Or clean out the box it was in previously?
The “hot boxes” are marked. So, I only ever put “target odor” in hot boxes and the elements are never stored with the “cold boxes” that way you minimize the risk of contamination. When training, just move the hot box around while your dog waits. Initially it’s fine to keep the dog out while you do it so they learn the game and you can build up to not allowing them to see. You can jump straight to it if your dog has a higher level of drive from the get go. Thanks for the question. I hope I answered it for you.
How do I find a trial to enter in my state when we are ready?
I was training Hank in scent work then the BIG 2020 HOAX began and it was over for classes and Trials hopefully people will get back to normal and life can move on great job
Thanks so much. The Scent Work community is awesome and the sport was truly on fire prior to the pandemic. I knew of some families who tried to get their pets into competitions and many filled up very quickly. Thanks for stopping by the channel.
So I don't see what he is doing "specifically" when he finds the correct box??? I know you said that YOU know which box is correct, but what is he doing to show you which one it is???? I am obviously missing something????
Disney!
I know this is an older video but wondering if you could tell me how you place the scent in the box? ex piece of towel with scent. Thanks!
Hi. No worries. Thanks for stopping by the channel. I place the scent in a metal tin on a scented half QTip. If you check my video here 👉ruclips.net/video/1J1GSjT70dU/видео.html you can see how I prepare odors. Hope this helps. Happy to discuss.
Just getting started with scent work, great video, where did you get your boxes from? Thanks!!
Thanks! You can check the link in the description as well, but the Nosework in a box kit is from systematictraining4dogs.com. I also have another video on my channel where I review all of its contents and show you what’s inside so check that one out as well for a preview. Hope this helps. Thanks 😊
Thanks for the reply, nice chatting with a fellow dog enthusiast
@@chrisspangler2440 no problem
Really interesting with your reward. I have been trained to reward my dog at odor so that she values odor. However, I have seen people move their dog away when they find the odor, they mark with 'yes', but then move their dog away from the search area with a treat. What are your thoughts on this?
At this point, Disney is pretty familiar with Birch, the scent we were looking for. However, in most recreational purposes, I would still recommend or default to rewarding at source odor.
However, in K9 scent detection, there can be several reasons to reward the dog away from the source of the odor (always a good idea to mark the scent identification right away, even if the physical reward is delayed, like you mentioned):
1. Preventing Habituation: This is when a dog becomes used to an odor due to prolonged exposure and may stop reacting to it. Rewarding away from the odor source can keep the dog motivated and responsive.
2. Maintaining Enthusiasm: Moving away from the source can also maintain the dog's excitement and enthusiasm. When the reward becomes a chase or a game, it can stimulate the dog's prey drive and make the training more effective and enjoyable.
3. Preventing Contamination: Rewarding away from the odor source can help avoid any possible contamination of the target scent, especially important in delicate situations such as forensic or medical detection.
4. Teaching Independence: If rewards are always given at the source, the dog may become reliant on the handler for direction and cues. Rewarding away from the source can help teach the dog to work independently and maintain focus on the task, without needing immediate input from the handler. A great drill for this is the “You sit, I search” game where the dog goes in the area and searches for the scent, you mark the identification from a distance, and then come into the search area to reward or call your dog if unsafe to reward at the exact source of odor)
5. Safety: In some situations, the odor source may be in a dangerous or difficult-to-reach location. In these cases, rewarding away from the source can ensure the safety of the dog.
Thanks for stopping by the channel!
How do you know when the dog has found the scent? I am completely new and have never competed in this.
I am going to start training my puppy.
Also what do you need for novice scent work? I have been seeing that some people train their dogs differently.
You reward the moment they make any indication towards the object with the scent, eventually they figure out what your looking for and will begin targeting the specific scent, I have a very lazy hound, practiced for about 1 hour targeting chicken feathers(so she can track lost chickens)
thought she wasn't getting it so went inside for more treats...came out to find she had grabbed the Target jar and taken it with her knowing it was somehow important 😂 clearly I underestimated her understanding.
TMI
I couldn't find anything on what you actually did to place scent in the box. Q tips? In a metal container? Just laying in the box? One drop of oil, two three?
Thanks for tuning in to the video @mattlovern4846. I have this video here which explains how to scent the vessel: ruclips.net/video/1J1GSjT70dU/видео.htmlsi=uqyX3TjuonxcgB7c
@@DingleDays excellent, thanks!
How do you know he’s indicating?
In this beginner training here, we were not working on the indication. The most important thing to nurture at the beginning of scent work training is the hunt drive. In this video, I marked when he located the target so I could build value for it. If you noticed on a couple of the searches, Disney “offered me” a down on his own. This is great - anytime you can get a dog to exhibit the desired behavior (a passive alert in this instance) without having to shape it. I gave him more treats or “jackpotted” that behavior. He gets treated either way, but he gets more when he gives me a passive alert. Over time, the dog will default to the most rewarding experience. There will be clarity with your dog when the emphasis is on reading his behavior and adjusting your marking timing to avoid unwanted behaviors, as well (lots of patience and easier said than done, I know). You want to avoid a “box crusher” and train a passive alert from the beginning without killing the hunt drive. Pay attention to your dog. Short of a sit, down, or that “sit stare” that many handlers want from their dogs, your dog is giving you signals. It may be as shuttle as an ear twitch whenever he thinks he's on target odor. This is a dog-led activity, so go thru a ton of iterations and identify that change of behavior in your dog, so you know when to call the alert. Over time, you can build the more obvious passive indication (I.e., sit, lie down, stare, etc.) I would avoid training your dog to paw at the boxes as this could disrupt the training area and earn you a fault(s) if you choose to compete at trial. I hope this helps, and thanks for stopping by the channel.
Could you please tell me the dimensions of the cardboard boxes🙏🏻
10 identical cardboard box containers (9" x 6.5" 2.75")
@@DingleDays Thank you so much👍🏻
@@DingleDays can I use also maxi letter boxes?
@@Ziya87Akin the boxes 📦 themselves do not really matter. It’s the skillet we are trying to teach so use what you’ve got. In fact, you want to even train without the boxes so your dog can generalize the behavior (search luggage, old items you pick up from Goodwill, shelves, outside in the grass, etc. as you progress). Still, to your point, any box will be fine for this training drill.
@@DingleDays Thank you very much. I will follow your advice!
Disney
Thanks for stopping by the channel!
Disney😅
He gets a reward for getting to the box that the handler knows the scent is in. This makes no sense to me. He just goes from box to box.
Thanks for the comment. I feel you. This video was an introduction to getting started in scent work since the scent really has no value to your dog but that which you give it. So, whether we want our dogs to find a dog sport odor like birch or the remote control, the only thing that matters is that we build value to odor first and slowly up the level of difficulty for getting our dog to find the odor. Basic steps, regardless of the scent are to make sure your dog understands the “find it” game and has a bit of hunt drive. Then you can basically see if your dog will just find a treat by itself. Then pair that treat with the target odor so the dog can reward itself when they find the target odor. Then place the target odor by itself, mark the behavior when your dog finds the target odor (whatever it may be) with a verbal marker or clicker, and then treat at source odor. The more drive your dog has and iterations of early on success, the more you can delay gratification and have your dog find multiple “hides” before having to treat. You should always mark the behavior when your dog finds the target odor, but you don’t always have to treat right away. Again, before asking for too much delayed gratification make sure you’re building up to that at a level where your pup is still having fun with the game. After all, this is pretty natural for dogs so as long as you’re reading their body language and marking the behavior with appropriate timing, you’ll progress along together as a dog handler team, regardless of the target odor. So it may look like not much is happening in the beginning, but we don’t want to progress without building a strong foundation (it doesn’t have to be with just boxes either - in fact, you should get away from them and introduce a variety of “containers” or placements as soon as possible). You can raise difficulty with duration, environment, or other distractions later.
@@DingleDays now it makes sense, thank you.
Disney!
Disney
Disney!
Disney!
Thanks for tuning in!
Disney
Disney
Disney
Thanks for stopping by the channel 😊
Disney
Thanks for stopping by the channel
@@DingleDays Belle and I are just getting started in Scent work and we love your channel, very informative. Ordered our boxes and looking forward to our first Novice competition. In the meantime we will practice and enjoy each other’s company….thanks so much! (Did’t mean to hit the thumbs down button above )
@@pepperbailey3166 thanks so much and good luck with your Scentwork journey 😊