I bought my diesel to learn a little bit about the engine. All 50 years of small engine repairing it's nice to have a change of blood in the line up, a very good video, and thank you!
Thanks for watching and the positive comment! I hope you have as much fun with diesels as I have and continue to! While I realize electric motors are the future they don't seem nearly as interesting as internal (and external) combustion engines.
When I bought mine I am pretty good friends with some local people that own and operate a Chinese restaurant and speak Mandarin so he was more than happy to translate it for me
I found a temperature range in the manual for two oils that can be ran in the engine. 10w-30 -25°C to 30°C or -13°F to 86°F 15w-40 -15°C to 40°C or 5°F to 104°F
I don’t know why everyone is so upset? It still started first pull. Good informative video. Never knew it would bleed that quick without cracking a line. I’ll have to try it. People were mad about the cold start he was just showing different methods. Again informative. Thanks. If you don’t like it do it your way but at least he is showing different methods.
I have one of these engines too. Had it for about over a year now. I'm in the process of putting mine on a minibike. Need to install a jackshaft though. Good luck with yours. I have a couple of videos of it running.
I heard these have a weird 20mm size crankshaft on it. I have found 20mm centrifugal clutches tho so good luck with that mini bike project. I want to get in of these engines for the same reason
@@srcobra50 They do. So I am looking at two ways to deal with this. Buy 3/4" ID pulleys and use a 20mm reamer or buy some 1" OD 3/4" ID DOM steel tubing and ream the inside out to 20mm. Then use a 5mm endmill to cut a slot for a 5mm key.
Situan Sifa MB168F. Very high quality castings and machine dimensions. Proven design. Quieter when mounting on thick plate aluminum, which also prevents base lug damage. It's super easy to start by pouring a kettle of hot water on the head. Don't use ether = crack motor. 20 MM shaft. I bought the $10 3mirrors stainless 3/4 to 1 inch crankshaft adapter and honed it up to .787 = 20 MM. Filing the crank makes it wear loose over and over again. 20 MM small pulleys and centrifugal clutches are sold, but a proper 7 inch pulley wants the 20 MM to 1 inch adapter. 15W40 oil. Avoid any contaminated fuels. A 10si Delco alternator is perfect with the 7 inch pulley, but down throttle to 40 amps. Avoid lowest and highest RPM. 1/2 to 1.5 HP output is sensible. Oil consumption is unexpectedly high especially within the first 25 hours. No load medium RPM is your best break in. Avoid opening the fuel line by wiring the decomperessor lever down and pulling with higher throttle 50 - 100 times until diesel is smelled in the exhaust.
I liked your video. I have this same engine (painted red). I have to admit, when you lit the gasoline in the air filter housing, it had me like: o_O So, let's look at the numbers. For isentropic compression, the increase in pressure is found by: p2/p1 = (v1/v2)^(1.4) Where 1.4 is the ratio of constant-pressure specific heat to constant-volume specific heat, in this case, of air. The (v1/v2) term is of course the compression ratio (22:1). So with p1 being 1 atmosphere (naturally aspirated engine, with no "throttle" to reduce pressure), p2 is: p2 = 22 ^ 1.4 = 75.75 atmospheres Next, the temperature increase is found by: T2/T1 = (P2/P1) ^ (1 - 1/1.4), and with your temperature there being (let's say) -10 Celsius, that is 263 Kelvin, so: T2 = 263 * (75.75) ^ (0.286) = 905 Kelvin (3.44 times hotter!) Converting to Fahrenheit: (905-273)*1.8+32 = 1177 degrees F :D I have only had my 3-horse 168F for a month and am going to use it to turn an alternator, to charge a deep-cycle battery to power an inverter. I have not had to deal with winter temperatures yet, but having an end-of-compression temperature of over 1100 degrees should be able to ignite anything! I prefer using a propane torch to heat the cylinder head, if it ever gets too difficult to start :)
Thanks for watching and the positive contributions! I'm a big fan of the math (although I don't claim to be an expert by any means with it) and although the math indicates the combustion temperatures *should* be enough to ignite at relatively low air temperatures, from my experience with indirect injection diesels they begin to start to struggle around 20°F. Without glow plugs these temperatures can be challenging even on a new diesel engine. As some of my engines are worn more than others part of this is due to cylinder leakage but I do know common rail engines start *much* easier in colder weather than the older, non-common rail engines even with known (and excessive/out of spec) leakage so I can only conclude the finer mist helps tremendously with ignition along with whatever heat the common rail system imparts to the fuel vs. the legacy systems (if any.) I believe there is some interesting modeling that could be done to also account for the heat loss to the piston/cylinder/etc. that plays into things as well as the fuel quantity and its potential cooling effects. Some of my older tractors actually start better with less than full rack injection on startup. Seems like too much fuel can cool things off too much. These are just my hunches and I cannot back them with any math so consider them accordingly.
@@IlikeurtractorI think you're on the right track with the consideration of cold fuel meeting hot air. The hot air is rapidly quenched by the fuel. Keep turning out videos, dude! It's appreciated :)
We have unit written in chinese. All of them. But those unit are universal, every one on the earth use the same unit expression, so do we. For example mm for millimeter. No need to be suprise with that.
Posted for others..Android / Google has a translation app in the app store for free..that can use the camera on you phone..it shows whatever language in captions on your phone screen..it will do many languages.. and does Chinese to English rather well..those diesel engines are still readily available, even Amazon has them..glad you got the Orange version as it has a metal air cleaner vs the red version comes with a plastic air cleaner..they are marketed as 3hp, 4hp,6hp etc..but seem to be 3.5 hp..they have plenty of torque and seen them used to repower many different types of equipment..some having 8hp,9hp gasoline engines originally and seems to handle it just fine..
Thanks for watching and have fun with the new engine! I'm glad to see the availability increasing and the prices going down given the inflation, potential supply chain issues, and tendency to move towards electric motors (which may be actually helping this I suppose.)
The red engine is exactly the same as the orange engine - the red engine comes with an English translation - From what I understand at 2700 RPMs is when it is 3 HP - that is also when it delivers full torque - Does any one know what the safe idle speed is - what I want to know is what speed is considered high idle on this engine
you bleed the fuel wrong . bleed it at the outlet of injector pump then at the injector. your engine had air in the pump in the line and in the injector. try to visualize what going on . these motors will start first pull right out off box. you made way to big of a deal out off it.you don't need to take off the fuel line.(risking contamination) forget about positive displacement pump blaaa blaaa blaaa . forget instructions and just bleed the engine like you have done all other diesel injection systems for 4 decades....oh wait that me
I agree, this guy has a poor understanding of the process. He may be trying to avoid cavitation damage to the pump elements. But he doesn't know what he is doing.
It's actually only about 3.5-4 hp and yes 196cc for that amount of power is a lot of displacement. It is typical for diesel engines of that design (i.e. no turbo, no common rail, indirect injection, et al.) Engine life would be expected to be much longer than a 2-stroke of the same power.
@@spaken2768 The question would need further details to be answered correctly. Compared to a 2-stroke engine or just another diesel engine with a different displacement? In any case, the answer is determined by the overall efficiency of the engines at the power considered. Diesel engines have proven to be much more efficient than 2-stroke engines historically. The specific fuel consumption (fuel quantity per power output) generally goes down as displacement goes up for most engines (larger engines are usually more efficient.) That doesn't necessarily mean a 6.0L diesel engine will use less fuel at idle than the 196cc engine at idle or even when each is producing, for example 3 hp. But the 6.0L engine will very likely use much less fuel per horsepower than the 196cc. As far as the comparison of 2-stroke gas vs. diesel it would be difficult to find a 4 hp rated, 2-stroke engine that would use the same or less fuel than a 4 hp rated diesel engine at the same output power. The 2-stroke wins by its power to weight (and physical size) ratio of course. So another good question might be could a diesel engine be produced cost competitively that has the same power to weight ratio as a 2-stroke? So far it doesn't seem like it can.
@@spaken2768 You're welcome. Even though the answer appears to be detailed it still leaves out a lot of considerations and my knowledge is quite limited I'm finding out as I continue to learn. Like almost everything in life it seems things just can keep going deeper and deeper with more and more questions that arise. That's what makes it challenging though and allows us to become as specialized as we want to which is kind of neat. Keep learning and share as much of your knowledge as you can!
Painful to watch. Just take the cap off the air cleaner, Put half a teaspoon of petrol in the there on the element, Close it up and start the thing. Lighting fires in the air cleaner is ridiculous!
No. You didn't teach anything good. Mount it on a heavy plate of aluminum with fine 3/8 bolts. Don't use ether. It's way too easy to blow up the motor. I just wired the decompress lever up and cranked to clean out air. Use only 15W40 oil and real diesel fuel. I honed a 3/4 to 1 inch shaft sleeve to mount a big pulley. Cold weather? A kettle of hot water poured slowly right on the top of the cylinder. It wants a long gentle break in. Avoid the slowest and highest speeds.
I haven't seen why one would want a "cheap" Communist/ Slave Labor built stinky noisey one of these. If a Dismal stinking, noisey & particulate spewing prime mover is what you're after, remember Dismals "pulse" harshly causing vibration like you've never seen. Special considerations must be made to accommodate it. ie: Special rubber mounting and isolation as well as gusseting bracketry or things just fall apart. And due to high pressure combustion the EPA will push for DEF equipment if they become trendy. Kind of like the 2 stroke dilemma w/ unwanted extra weight. But hey, this is America & you still have Freedom to choose. (for right now)
I just got in a 186F (10-horse, 418cc) that is going on a go-kart with a 40-series torque converter. As far as why one would want one? They're cheap, well-built (for what they are) and can run off of alternative fuels. I watched a video of a guy who ran his off of Wesson cooking oil, FFS. Seems like a handy thing to have around, if highly refined fuel like gasoline becomes scarce. Think about what Rudolf Diesel had in mind with the compression-ignition concept. I seem to recall that his prototype ran on peanut oil o_O
I bought my diesel to learn a little bit about the engine. All 50 years of small engine repairing it's nice to have a change of blood in the line up, a very good video, and thank you!
Thanks for watching and the positive comment! I hope you have as much fun with diesels as I have and continue to! While I realize electric motors are the future they don't seem nearly as interesting as internal (and external) combustion engines.
When I bought mine I am pretty good friends with some local people that own and operate a Chinese restaurant and speak Mandarin so he was more than happy to translate it for me
I found a temperature range in the manual for two oils that can be ran in the engine.
10w-30 -25°C to 30°C or -13°F to 86°F
15w-40 -15°C to 40°C or 5°F to 104°F
I don’t know why everyone is so upset? It still started first pull. Good informative video. Never knew it would bleed that quick without cracking a line. I’ll have to try it. People were mad about the cold start he was just showing different methods. Again informative. Thanks. If you don’t like it do it your way but at least he is showing different methods.
I was looking at these for years also, finally got my hands one too
Hopefully we'll see some vertical shaft versions eventually. I have an application or two for those as well.
@@Ilikeurtractor yea that would be great if they did
@@Ilikeurtractor how much was it with shipping and handling to the USA ?
@@brieannateylar5810 Around $260. There are a bunch on eBay now for the same price.
I have one of these engines too. Had it for about over a year now. I'm in the process of putting mine on a minibike. Need to install a jackshaft though. Good luck with yours. I have a couple of videos of it running.
I heard these have a weird 20mm size crankshaft on it. I have found 20mm centrifugal clutches tho so good luck with that mini bike project. I want to get in of these engines for the same reason
@@srcobra50 👍👍
Why a jackshaft?
@@srcobra50 They do. So I am looking at two ways to deal with this. Buy 3/4" ID pulleys and use a 20mm reamer or buy some 1" OD 3/4" ID DOM steel tubing and ream the inside out to 20mm. Then use a 5mm endmill to cut a slot for a 5mm key.
Nice video, thanks for taking the time to upload this!
Thanks for saying thanks :]
Situan Sifa MB168F. Very high quality castings and machine dimensions. Proven design. Quieter when mounting on thick plate aluminum, which also prevents base lug damage. It's super easy to start by pouring a kettle of hot water on the head. Don't use ether = crack motor. 20 MM shaft. I bought the $10 3mirrors stainless 3/4 to 1 inch crankshaft adapter and honed it up to .787 = 20 MM. Filing the crank makes it wear loose over and over again. 20 MM small pulleys and centrifugal clutches are sold, but a proper 7 inch pulley wants the 20 MM to 1 inch adapter. 15W40 oil. Avoid any contaminated fuels. A 10si Delco alternator is perfect with the 7 inch pulley, but down throttle to 40 amps. Avoid lowest and highest RPM. 1/2 to 1.5 HP output is sensible. Oil consumption is unexpectedly high especially within the first 25 hours. No load medium RPM is your best break in. Avoid opening the fuel line by wiring the decomperessor lever down and pulling with higher throttle 50 - 100 times until diesel is smelled in the exhaust.
Motorized bike build with this would get crazy mileage
I liked your video. I have this same engine (painted red). I have to admit, when you lit the gasoline in the air filter housing, it had me like: o_O
So, let's look at the numbers. For isentropic compression, the increase in pressure is found by:
p2/p1 = (v1/v2)^(1.4)
Where 1.4 is the ratio of constant-pressure specific heat to constant-volume specific heat, in this case, of air. The (v1/v2) term is of course the compression ratio (22:1). So with p1 being 1 atmosphere (naturally aspirated engine, with no "throttle" to reduce pressure), p2 is:
p2 = 22 ^ 1.4 = 75.75 atmospheres
Next, the temperature increase is found by:
T2/T1 = (P2/P1) ^ (1 - 1/1.4), and with your temperature there being (let's say) -10 Celsius, that is 263 Kelvin, so:
T2 = 263 * (75.75) ^ (0.286) = 905 Kelvin (3.44 times hotter!)
Converting to Fahrenheit: (905-273)*1.8+32 = 1177 degrees F :D
I have only had my 3-horse 168F for a month and am going to use it to turn an alternator, to charge a deep-cycle battery to power an inverter. I have not had to deal with winter temperatures yet, but having an end-of-compression temperature of over 1100 degrees should be able to ignite anything!
I prefer using a propane torch to heat the cylinder head, if it ever gets too difficult to start :)
Thanks for watching and the positive contributions! I'm a big fan of the math (although I don't claim to be an expert by any means with it) and although the math indicates the combustion temperatures *should* be enough to ignite at relatively low air temperatures, from my experience with indirect injection diesels they begin to start to struggle around 20°F. Without glow plugs these temperatures can be challenging even on a new diesel engine. As some of my engines are worn more than others part of this is due to cylinder leakage but I do know common rail engines start *much* easier in colder weather than the older, non-common rail engines even with known (and excessive/out of spec) leakage so I can only conclude the finer mist helps tremendously with ignition along with whatever heat the common rail system imparts to the fuel vs. the legacy systems (if any.) I believe there is some interesting modeling that could be done to also account for the heat loss to the piston/cylinder/etc. that plays into things as well as the fuel quantity and its potential cooling effects. Some of my older tractors actually start better with less than full rack injection on startup. Seems like too much fuel can cool things off too much. These are just my hunches and I cannot back them with any math so consider them accordingly.
@@IlikeurtractorI think you're on the right track with the consideration of cold fuel meeting hot air. The hot air is rapidly quenched by the fuel. Keep turning out videos, dude! It's appreciated :)
@@goofypettiger Thanks for the thanks! I hope to do more but it might be a while...
I got mine a year ago and out of the box it had a bad injection pump
We have unit written in chinese. All of them. But those unit are universal, every one on the earth use the same unit expression, so do we. For example mm for millimeter. No need to be suprise with that.
Can’t find anywhere how much you pay? Seen similar for around $1,000
eBay? Search for 168f diesel. ~$255 shipped.
Got mine on eBay $220
Isn’t the 186F a 10 HP? I have one on my house generator.
Yes. The 168F is the 3hp one.
You know your stuff!
Posted for others..Android / Google has a translation app in the app store for free..that can use the camera on you phone..it shows whatever language in captions on your phone screen..it will do many languages.. and does Chinese to English rather well..those diesel engines are still readily available, even Amazon has them..glad you got the Orange version as it has a metal air cleaner vs the red version comes with a plastic air cleaner..they are marketed as 3hp, 4hp,6hp etc..but seem to be 3.5 hp..they have plenty of torque and seen them used to repower many different types of equipment..some having 8hp,9hp gasoline engines originally and seems to handle it just fine..
Thanks Brother... mine is in the mail. $235.00 Ebay
Thanks for watching and have fun with the new engine! I'm glad to see the availability increasing and the prices going down given the inflation, potential supply chain issues, and tendency to move towards electric motors (which may be actually helping this I suppose.)
The red engine is exactly the same as the orange engine - the red engine comes with an English translation -
From what I understand at 2700 RPMs is when it is 3 HP - that is also when it delivers full torque -
Does any one know what the safe idle speed is - what I want to know is what speed is considered high idle on this engine
That number 4 is 4 stroke Engine
Ether can EASILY blow up inside it like a grenade. Use a kettle of hot water on the cylinder. This is a prolonged crackpot video.
Good practical
This vs predator fuel economy, real-world.
3Hp Diesel (motor). Why plugin your car to charge the battery.
you bleed the fuel wrong . bleed it at the outlet of injector pump then at the injector. your engine had air in the pump in the line and in the injector. try to visualize what going on . these motors will start first pull right out off box. you made way to big of a deal out off it.you don't need to take off the fuel line.(risking contamination) forget about positive displacement pump blaaa blaaa blaaa . forget instructions and just bleed the engine like you have done all other diesel injection systems for 4 decades....oh wait that me
I agree, this guy has a poor understanding of the process. He may be trying to avoid cavitation damage to the pump elements. But he doesn't know what he is doing.
Yeah...I was shaking my head too.
To be fair....he was demonstrating worst case scenario run out of fuel situation.
Propane bottle when it is cold.
Does 196cc seems like a lot for 5hp? A 50cc moped can have 4hp.
It's actually only about 3.5-4 hp and yes 196cc for that amount of power is a lot of displacement. It is typical for diesel engines of that design (i.e. no turbo, no common rail, indirect injection, et al.) Engine life would be expected to be much longer than a 2-stroke of the same power.
@@Ilikeurtractor Will fuel consumption be higher when the displacement is higher?
@@spaken2768 The question would need further details to be answered correctly. Compared to a 2-stroke engine or just another diesel engine with a different displacement? In any case, the answer is determined by the overall efficiency of the engines at the power considered. Diesel engines have proven to be much more efficient than 2-stroke engines historically. The specific fuel consumption (fuel quantity per power output) generally goes down as displacement goes up for most engines (larger engines are usually more efficient.) That doesn't necessarily mean a 6.0L diesel engine will use less fuel at idle than the 196cc engine at idle or even when each is producing, for example 3 hp. But the 6.0L engine will very likely use much less fuel per horsepower than the 196cc. As far as the comparison of 2-stroke gas vs. diesel it would be difficult to find a 4 hp rated, 2-stroke engine that would use the same or less fuel than a 4 hp rated diesel engine at the same output power. The 2-stroke wins by its power to weight (and physical size) ratio of course. So another good question might be could a diesel engine be produced cost competitively that has the same power to weight ratio as a 2-stroke? So far it doesn't seem like it can.
@@Ilikeurtractor Thank you for such a detailed answer :)
@@spaken2768 You're welcome. Even though the answer appears to be detailed it still leaves out a lot of considerations and my knowledge is quite limited I'm finding out as I continue to learn. Like almost everything in life it seems things just can keep going deeper and deeper with more and more questions that arise. That's what makes it challenging though and allows us to become as specialized as we want to which is kind of neat. Keep learning and share as much of your knowledge as you can!
If you want more power, take off the intake and look for restrictions to air flow.
Painful to watch. Just take the cap off the air cleaner, Put half a teaspoon of petrol in the there on the element, Close it up and start the thing. Lighting fires in the air cleaner is ridiculous!
indeed painfully detailed ad infinitum...
U could add gas to the exhaust, with compression release open. Then role it over to suck gas inside.
No. You didn't teach anything good. Mount it on a heavy plate of aluminum with fine 3/8 bolts. Don't use ether. It's way too easy to blow up the motor. I just wired the decompress lever up and cranked to clean out air. Use only 15W40 oil and real diesel fuel. I honed a 3/4 to 1 inch shaft sleeve to mount a big pulley. Cold weather? A kettle of hot water poured slowly right on the top of the cylinder. It wants a long gentle break in. Avoid the slowest and highest speeds.
Why you gurgling when you breath in lol yikes
I haven't seen why one would want a "cheap" Communist/ Slave Labor built stinky noisey one of these. If a Dismal stinking, noisey & particulate spewing prime mover is what you're after, remember Dismals "pulse" harshly causing vibration like you've never seen. Special considerations must be made to accommodate it. ie: Special rubber mounting and isolation as well as gusseting bracketry or things just fall apart. And due to high pressure combustion the EPA will push for DEF equipment if they become trendy. Kind of like the 2 stroke dilemma w/ unwanted extra weight. But hey, this is America & you still have Freedom to choose. (for right now)
I just got in a 186F (10-horse, 418cc) that is going on a go-kart with a 40-series torque converter. As far as why one would want one? They're cheap, well-built (for what they are) and can run off of alternative fuels. I watched a video of a guy who ran his off of Wesson cooking oil, FFS. Seems like a handy thing to have around, if highly refined fuel like gasoline becomes scarce. Think about what Rudolf Diesel had in mind with the compression-ignition concept. I seem to recall that his prototype ran on peanut oil o_O
Someone needs to make performance upgrade parts for these so bad @powerdrivendiesel