Thank you for taking the time to make this video and the link. I have been researching this work for a few months and everything says you need a high powered power washer and this seems to be just right for what I need. Will post my video soon on how it works for me!
A word of advice, try to switch over to pvc pipe as much as you can. Corrugated pipe catches all the crud and won't let it go. I've been looking for a pressure washer like the one you have. Nice! Not too much, but enough to do the job. Thanks 👍
Thank you for your very informative video. I really appreciate it. I have close to the same problem only with a patio drain system. I cannot find my clean out so I am going to have to go in through the drain. I used your link in order to buy the hose and jets from Amazon. I already have an electric power washer and I'm glad that that was good enough for you. Hopefully it will be good enough for me. I know my problem is mainly roots from palm trees that have grown inside the drainage system. So thank you very much for your very great video. I am going to subscribe to your entire videos and watch a lot more because you are very good at explaining things.
Have you thought of using a self-cleaning leaf trap on the down pipes? Keeping as much stuff out of the underground pipe as possible will give you more time before you have to clean it out again!
I had a couple of ideas, one of which was already mentioned. Prevent the leaves from going down the down pipe in the first place with either a full length leaf shield or one that fits right on the outlet of the gutter. Second, fabricate a couple of debris & critter guards to put over the ends of the underground pipe. I've done that on my pipe that goes under my cabin driveway.
Hi. Thank you for making this video because this is exactly what happened to my underground spout. I already have a pressure washer just needed the hose kits. Hopefully works. I will keep you posted. Greatly appreciated
If you're doing a drainage project, a good piece of advice is to use schedule 40 4" PVC. The corrugated is cheap but it always crushes and the ridges trap sediment which grows over time into clogs.
Great vid.I used same jetter on mine but got lucky and found a jetter head and some rigid hose from when I was a drain cleaner years ago-Works best for me with side jets and one spraying forward.
Excellent and friendly voiced video. TY. You mentioned it was a big job but how long did it take you? Also, did you find sending the hose uphill harder than downhill?
my best suggestion is to replace the corrugated black pipe with pvc would be the easies for keeping the drainage from clogging, there are lots of videos on the difference.
Agree. Unsure why people use corrugated pipe? It traps things and it doesn’t allow water to flow smoothly. Replace the pipes with PVC. They’re self-cleaning if they have continuous fall. Good tips regarding the attachments.
Agreed 👍, especially for such a short distance the slightly increased cost is well worth the diminished hassle factor. For a long run either good pitch MAYBE buy a roll of black pipe for cost savings……
4k+ psi and 5gpm to 12gpm. With low pressure and gpm tape a pointed probe on the end of the hose in the tube. Bend a small hook on and this way plays the role of high pressure by pushing into the blockage.
With all the rocks you have around there you should consider making a dry stream at the output to keep sand and debris from back washing up into the pipe.
Got almost an identical situation here, thanks for sharing. I wasn't aware of these attachments. Also have a foundation drainage issue with a misplaced not by me!) pine tree. The tree is quite mature at roughly 60-70 feet high and a 1-1/2' trunk, so removal is an expensive proposition. Once a year I have a guy come up with a roto-rooter type device to reopen the drain, but a DIY solution would be preferable. I did try a rental unit but the bit was inadequate and I spent 45 minutes untwisting the cable (oops!). Thanks again!
@@ChuckD59 Because it is above the building that tree should be cut down. No matter what. Safety first. A tree like that should be 100 feet distance from the building. If that collapsed on your roof imagine. Also animals climbed that. Rats, mice squirrels etc. plus the roots underground blocking water supply or going through the foundation
i think a cleanout and an extension on the end of the pipe(down to where your water runoff drainage ditch is,might keep your yard a little dryer away from where you might be working
A borescope(endoscope) would be good to look up that pipe to see if there is a break somewhere. Sand in the pipe is a clue that there might be a break allowing sand to enter the pipe.....maybe.
Good deal.... Success!! Looks like the ground was pretty close to the wooden siding at 12:24 [Fun project for the daughters.... lowering the dirt level!!] HAHA!
That drain's sub-spec for UK building regs, we use a 6" HDPE pipe with walls about 6mm thick, which is pretty much impervious to anything short of an excavator, and most certainly has no root infiltration.
Ive got an interior basement drain system installed on top of my footer with ports for "cleanout". I purchased that sewer jetter set off of amazon. My concern is when I insert the jetter those back jets are going to want to push the water/silt toward the "inspection ports" and not toward the 2 sump basins I have installed. I wonder if there is another attachment that just has forward water pressure rather then the nozzles with the backjets.
If you go with a nozzle with no back jets, make sure the pipe with very rigid so you can push the head forward. The back jets purpose is twofold. Two wash out the blockage so when you pull it out, it washes the crud towards you where it's manageable and can be interreacted with at the inspection port, and to propel the jetter head forward. A powerful jetter doesn't need you pushing the pipe in, the back jets will send it up by itself and clear the detritus you clear.
My nozzles keeps on getting clogged when trying to clear "sand" in drain tile system.... I wonder if a higher 2400 PSI/ 2.4 GPM gas unit will be better than my electric1900 PSI / 1.2 GPM electric unit ?
The 1st thing to do would be put gutter guards that have micro-mesh stainless screen, get the ones with aluminum frame, not vinyl. This will stop all leaves and shingle grit. And that alone will pretty much take care of ever having stopped up drains. But then there are other things that could be much better as many have mentioned, smooth PVC, much easier to flow or clean. And a pressure washer with at least 3 gpm and at least 3000 psi. Prefer 4 gpm and 4000 psi. One trick that can help flush the pipes after you cleaned them, stop up the end where it drains, put your garden hose in and let it fill up, then when you unstop it, all that water will help clear what is in the pipe, as just running a garden hose does very little. Same thing for your main drain in the house, fill all the sinks about 1/2 full, fill the tub about 1/4 of the way, then pull all the stoppers and flush all the toilets, this sends a huge amount of water down the drain and will push things sitting in the pipe that can cause a build-up/clog.
Get a bigger (higher wattage, higher pressure, higher water volume) pressure cleaner. More effective. The one you have is for very limited house maintenance, you need a commercial/industrial graded one.
The backward facing holes are not to push the debris to the rear it's to push the head forward you need more pushing back than pushing forward so it will draw the hose in to the pipe
Maybe add some strainers in the gutters before the water hits the down spouts ? I have the same issue as you, a ton of trees all around my house and have to clean the gutters 4 times a year and most of them are 20 plus ft up. I hate it and I'm on a hill like you, good times...NOT !
Isn't that going to be a constant issue in that area with all the trees and stuff? I would think a better solution would be to just get rid of the underground stuff and put in a trough or something like that. I'm lazy though. I can see how an underground setup can often look much better.
Super interesting video. I was thinking he would run a steel wire from the farthest pipe to the exit and then pull the cleaning hose through. Steel wire would be needed since there is a junction somewhere and the hose cannot be fed through exit to reach the farthest opening. Then the rotating attachment can be used to clean out any sand etc while the cleaner pipe is pulled out slowly from the exit.
if you leave the high pressure jetting head in the same spot for an extended period of time, it can possibly blast a hole in the pipe. Just be careful, also, I hope that chicken was ok.
I know this video is a year old but if you hook the hose up to the wand then you can shut off the water flow without having to run back to the pressure washer.
Problem: Corrugated pipe (cheap) ....(get what you pay for) Cause: Asphalt roofing starts to deteriorate after while...rinse it out occasionally. Answer: 3" (or 4") Schedule 40 ABS pipe, long turn 90's, 45's, couplings, wye's and comb-y's ...... :- )
i go with gas powerd since it does not goes out and gives more power....i would not believe any electric pressure washer when its plug in 115v and that power output is max out at 1500w motor and there are ton false data from many brands claiming electric motor 1900w ...3800 psi in reality its 1000 psi or less ....when all electric motor barely have enough power getting from the wall...if it was 220v ...then that be different story to make sense to see more than 1500w motors when 220v can easily do 4800w motor that gives you the pressure psi beyond 2900 psi...5800 psi is very possible from 220v outlet....and gas motor can go lot higher in psi...that be in commercial territory for roots cutting power by jetting
Your pressure washer is nowhere near strong enough for what you're doing you need 3,000 PSI or more preferably 4500 is what they recommend but 3,000 PSI will do the job
Those downspout drains have been completely neglected for years to become that full of debris. Cleaning them is just the tip of the iceberg. An exclamation point is added to the word neglect in seeing the depth of clogging and you still have not installed the proper boot connection to your downspouts. Apathy of your responsibility as a homeowner comes to mind. Sure we live in a busy world, but if you don’t do it, hire someone who will do it. Your house shows signs of water damage and rot. If you think I don’t know what I’m talking about, hire a home inspector (just like if you were buy that home) and let him give you a report showing you the areas of neglect, rot and concerns. Sure it will cost you $500 or more but it’ll save you tens of thousands if you make corrections before it’s too late.
1) You cannot do what you are trying to do. Not only leaves but also asphalt from the shingles will clog those pipes. Any standing water in those corrugated pipes will be a magnet for tree roots, which will absolutely clog them up and no power washer is going to clear that. Seek out 500 million videos on RUclips on how to divert rainwater from a gutter system, and a french drain, the differences between them, and best practices for both. 2) You aren't in the Donner party trekking to be one of the first white men to settle in California for the promise of several tracts of land. It's just a house, surrounded by trees. Stop calling it a homestead unless you are relying on a Wells Fargo wagon once a month or whatever.
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
Drain tile cleaner hose attachment - amzn.to/3e6YxES
Thank you for taking the time to make this video and the link. I have been researching this work for a few months and everything says you need a high powered power washer and this seems to be just right for what I need. Will post my video soon on how it works for me!
Best video so far with the different tips at the end of the hose 😅
A word of advice, try to switch over to pvc pipe as much as you can. Corrugated pipe catches all the crud and won't let it go. I've been looking for a pressure washer like the one you have. Nice! Not too much, but enough to do the job. Thanks 👍
Thank you for your very informative video. I really appreciate it. I have close to the same problem only with a patio drain system. I cannot find my clean out so I am going to have to go in through the drain. I used your link in order to buy the hose and jets from Amazon. I already have an electric power washer and I'm glad that that was good enough for you. Hopefully it will be good enough for me. I know my problem is mainly roots from palm trees that have grown inside the drainage system. So thank you very much for your very great video. I am going to subscribe to your entire videos and watch a lot more because you are very good at explaining things.
Thank you so much for teaching me a new skill my drain tile outside the sump pump is clog, hope this works!
Have you thought of using a self-cleaning leaf trap on the down pipes? Keeping as much stuff out of the underground pipe as possible will give you more time before you have to clean it out again!
I had a couple of ideas, one of which was already mentioned. Prevent the leaves from going down the down pipe in the first place with either a full length leaf shield or one that fits right on the outlet of the gutter. Second, fabricate a couple of debris & critter guards to put over the ends of the underground pipe. I've done that on my pipe that goes under my cabin driveway.
Love the Hebrews 11:1 verse and the help in unclogging my drainage pipe. 🙂
going to get hose thing for my power washer and gi and a try on plumbing in the house. like the verse and God bless
Hi. Thank you for making this video because this is exactly what happened to my underground spout. I already have a pressure washer just needed the hose kits. Hopefully works. I will keep you posted. Greatly appreciated
Thanks for the video 👍 would have been nice to see the pressure coming out of the attachments before going into the pipework
Excellent video, exactly what l looking for to clean my leach filter lines
If you're doing a drainage project, a good piece of advice is to use schedule 40 4" PVC. The corrugated is cheap but it always crushes and the ridges trap sediment which grows over time into clogs.
That’s what I inherited.
Great vid.I used same jetter on mine but got lucky and found a jetter head and some rigid hose from when I was a drain cleaner years ago-Works best for me with side jets and one spraying forward.
Excellent and friendly voiced video. TY. You mentioned it was a big job but how long did it take you? Also, did you find sending the hose uphill harder than downhill?
my best suggestion is to replace the corrugated black pipe with pvc would be the easies for keeping the drainage from clogging, there are lots of videos on the difference.
Agree. Unsure why people use corrugated pipe? It traps things and it doesn’t allow water to flow smoothly. Replace the pipes with PVC. They’re self-cleaning if they have continuous fall.
Good tips regarding the attachments.
Agreed 👍, especially for such a short distance the slightly increased cost is well worth the diminished hassle factor.
For a long run either good pitch MAYBE buy a roll of black pipe for cost savings……
A suggestion. Put some gravel at the end of the pipe and that will help with the dirt not getting packed in the end of the hose
Thanks Todd awesome video. Will the hose connect to gas powered Pressure your washer
Power...need more Power !!
@@augustreil I don't think so, Tim!!
Lotta respect. You are amazing with your patience and work ethic...props,!
Bet he still hasn’t installed the bottom gutter adapters lol
Very cool. I’m glad it worked.
An "SSL Family Dad" goes "Drain Addict" crossover. I'm here for it. Hehe.
4k+ psi and 5gpm to 12gpm.
With low pressure and gpm tape a pointed probe on the end of the hose in the tube. Bend a small hook on and this way plays the role of high pressure by pushing into the blockage.
What is the name of the product of the blue hose and attachments you got from Amazon? Do you have a product name, number, and price?
With all the rocks you have around there you should consider making a dry stream at the output to keep sand and debris from back washing up into the pipe.
Got almost an identical situation here, thanks for sharing. I wasn't aware of these attachments.
Also have a foundation drainage issue with a misplaced not by me!) pine tree. The tree is quite mature at roughly 60-70 feet high and a 1-1/2' trunk, so removal is an expensive proposition. Once a year I have a guy come up with a roto-rooter type device to reopen the drain, but a DIY solution would be preferable. I did try a rental unit but the bit was inadequate and I spent 45 minutes untwisting the cable (oops!).
Thanks again!
Why don’t you cut the tree the time you spent is money wasted also. You are not solving the problem 😊
@@josephrobi6806 1-1/2' trunk, 60-70' high, and about 10' from the foundation.
Yeah, I don't think so. That's a job for a pro.
@@ChuckD59 Because it is above the building that tree should be cut down. No matter what. Safety first. A tree like that should be 100 feet distance from the building. If that collapsed on your roof imagine. Also animals climbed that. Rats, mice squirrels etc. plus the roots underground blocking water supply or going through the foundation
i think a cleanout and an extension on the end of the pipe(down to where your water runoff drainage ditch is,might keep your yard a little dryer away from where you might be working
A borescope(endoscope) would be good to look up that pipe to see if there is a break somewhere. Sand in the pipe is a clue that there might be a break allowing sand to enter the pipe.....maybe.
this is super helpful. You solved my problem and thank you!
Nice! Thanks!
Thanks for the video. It worked
Well done mate ! thank you
Are able to provide a link to this hose you bought on Amazon?
What PSI is your pressure washer? I need to unclog a driveway drain. Thanks
Well done video! Thanks! 👏👏👏
Sir can i know how much you buy your clogged remover.
Good deal.... Success!!
Looks like the ground was pretty close to the wooden siding at 12:24
[Fun project for the daughters.... lowering the dirt level!!]
HAHA!
That drain's sub-spec for UK building regs, we use a 6" HDPE pipe with walls about 6mm thick, which is pretty much impervious to anything short of an excavator, and most certainly has no root infiltration.
I switched to ABS pipe, smooth surface inside. I have never had to clean it out.
Ive got an interior basement drain system installed on top of my footer with ports for "cleanout". I purchased that sewer jetter set off of amazon. My concern is when I insert the jetter those back jets are going to want to push the water/silt toward the "inspection ports" and not toward the 2 sump basins I have installed. I wonder if there is another attachment that just has forward water pressure rather then the nozzles with the backjets.
If you go with a nozzle with no back jets, make sure the pipe with very rigid so you can push the head forward. The back jets purpose is twofold. Two wash out the blockage so when you pull it out, it washes the crud towards you where it's manageable and can be interreacted with at the inspection port, and to propel the jetter head forward.
A powerful jetter doesn't need you pushing the pipe in, the back jets will send it up by itself and clear the detritus you clear.
That black corrugated pipe is known for trapping junk and clogging. My 6 down spouts go into smooth pipe with no leaf guards and there wide open.
Good job sir 👍
Do you have a link of the hose kit that you ordered on Amazon?
Westforce Power Washer - amzn.to/3yHG8GD
Drain tile cleaner hose attachment - amzn.to/3e6YxES
Thanks very much for the video. Good Stuff...
My nozzles keeps on getting clogged when trying to clear "sand" in drain tile system.... I wonder if a higher 2400 PSI/ 2.4 GPM gas unit will be better than my electric1900 PSI / 1.2 GPM electric unit ?
where can I buy the rotating tip?
the chicken was having fun!
The 1st thing to do would be put gutter guards that have micro-mesh stainless screen, get the ones with aluminum frame, not vinyl. This will stop all leaves and shingle grit. And that alone will pretty much take care of ever having stopped up drains. But then there are other things that could be much better as many have mentioned, smooth PVC, much easier to flow or clean. And a pressure washer with at least 3 gpm and at least 3000 psi. Prefer 4 gpm and 4000 psi. One trick that can help flush the pipes after you cleaned them, stop up the end where it drains, put your garden hose in and let it fill up, then when you unstop it, all that water will help clear what is in the pipe, as just running a garden hose does very little. Same thing for your main drain in the house, fill all the sinks about 1/2 full, fill the tub about 1/4 of the way, then pull all the stoppers and flush all the toilets, this sends a huge amount of water down the drain and will push things sitting in the pipe that can cause a build-up/clog.
thank you good video
Thank you master 👍
Highly recommend that you replace that corrugated pipe with some pvc.
Get a bigger (higher wattage, higher pressure, higher water volume) pressure cleaner. More effective. The one you have is for very limited house maintenance, you need a commercial/industrial graded one.
Nice video. Make sure you spray wd40 on your tips. Especially the one that spins. It be will keep it from rusting.
Those are all stainless, and the spinning part is brass.
The backward facing holes are not to push the debris to the rear it's to push the head forward you need more pushing back than pushing forward so it will draw the hose in to the pipe
Thanks. Good job. Voice is a bit muffled
I bet, the 2nd down spout drain, is connected to the 1st one!!!
LOL, continued video, and I was correct!!!
Full set charges
You need a 4500 psi pressure washer to clear sewer lines with those kits.
Maybe add some strainers in the gutters before the water hits the down spouts ? I have the same issue as you, a ton of trees all around my house and have to clean the gutters 4 times a year and most of them are 20 plus ft up. I hate it and I'm on a hill like you, good times...NOT !
Isn't that going to be a constant issue in that area with all the trees and stuff? I would think a better solution would be to just get rid of the underground stuff and put in a trough or something like that. I'm lazy though. I can see how an underground setup can often look much better.
You should start at the other end so things run down hill out the pipe
Starting near the house would cause issues as the back flow would overflow on the house. he is cleaning from the correct end
@@HospitalLocksmith i said start at the end of the pipe where it drains out. Not at the house.
Oh, you did start at the drain end..had to rewatch..lol
Super interesting video.
I was thinking he would run a steel wire from the farthest pipe to the exit and then pull the cleaning hose through. Steel wire would be needed since there is a junction somewhere and the hose cannot be fed through exit to reach the farthest opening. Then the rotating attachment can be used to clean out any sand etc while the cleaner pipe is pulled out slowly from the exit.
This is good to know as I am going to be tackling this project and I thought I should start at the house so it would come out at the ditch.
Brand of pressure washer?
Westforce
if you leave the high pressure jetting head in the same spot for an extended period of time, it can possibly blast a hole in the pipe. Just be careful, also, I hope that chicken was ok.
I use rock salt to kill any roots growing in drain pipes. That's a niffty machine.
I know this video is a year old but if you hook the hose up to the wand then you can shut off the water flow without having to run back to the pressure washer.
a gas powered pressure washer flows about twice as much water as most electrics, so would be much faster I'd assume.
Cost and address
Problem: Corrugated pipe (cheap) ....(get what you pay for)
Cause: Asphalt roofing starts to deteriorate after while...rinse it out occasionally.
Answer: 3" (or 4") Schedule 40 ABS pipe, long turn 90's, 45's, couplings, wye's and comb-y's ......
:- )
SUB and LIKED. Thanks!!!!
Gloves!
Why don’t you fasten some window screening around the pipes? It would stop the debris and then you could shovel out the stuff outside of the pipe.
The whole problem can be solved by putting screen wire over your gutters...then...no leaves!
i am a plumber. and i never heard of a boot
i go with gas powerd since it does not goes out and gives more power....i would not believe any electric pressure washer when its plug in 115v and that power output is max out at 1500w motor and there are ton false data from many brands claiming electric motor 1900w ...3800 psi in reality its 1000 psi or less ....when all electric motor barely have enough power getting from the wall...if it was 220v ...then that be different story to make sense to see more than 1500w motors when 220v can easily do 4800w motor that gives you the pressure psi beyond 2900 psi...5800 psi is very possible from 220v outlet....and gas motor can go lot higher in psi...that be in commercial territory for roots cutting power by jetting
a gas powered pressure washer doesn't make sense for home/DIY usage since it's so expensive... the entitlement is off the charts 🙄🙄🙄
This may be an annual job along with gutter cleaning.
Gloves
Unless you've got some screening to block leaves coming down the downspout, this design seems like a terrible idea.
That little light bulb shaped metal mesh downspout insert would help stop debris from going down the downspout.
Why don't you put covers on the pipes so that no more debris next time
Your pressure washer is nowhere near strong enough for what you're doing you need 3,000 PSI or more preferably 4500 is what they recommend but 3,000 PSI will do the job
Those downspout drains have been completely neglected for years to become that full of debris. Cleaning them is just the tip of the iceberg. An exclamation point is added to the word neglect in seeing the depth of clogging and you still have not installed the proper boot connection to your downspouts. Apathy of your responsibility as a homeowner comes to mind. Sure we live in a busy world, but if you don’t do it, hire someone who will do it. Your house shows signs of water damage and rot.
If you think I don’t know what I’m talking about, hire a home inspector (just like if you were buy that home) and let him give you a report showing you the areas of neglect, rot and concerns. Sure it will cost you $500 or more but it’ll save you tens of thousands if you make corrections before it’s too late.
We just bought the home less than a year ago and are address all of the issues one by one, thanks for watching!
1) You cannot do what you are trying to do. Not only leaves but also asphalt from the shingles will clog those pipes. Any standing water in those corrugated pipes will be a magnet for tree roots, which will absolutely clog them up and no power washer is going to clear that. Seek out 500 million videos on RUclips on how to divert rainwater from a gutter system, and a french drain, the differences between them, and best practices for both.
2) You aren't in the Donner party trekking to be one of the first white men to settle in California for the promise of several tracts of land. It's just a house, surrounded by trees. Stop calling it a homestead unless you are relying on a Wells Fargo wagon once a month or whatever.
you neet 3600 ps pull 😊