I use the Trilene knot exclusively, not only for its awesome hold strength when tied correctly, but the tag points away from the rod- this less weed, moss snag potential to fowl the line w/ each reel. Great video!
one application I really love the trilene knot for is tying a tippet ring onto the middle/butt end of your leader in fly fishing. The tag points away from you and you have a very strong knot holding the tippet ring on. Usually I'd just tie a clinch knot on the other side, but one could tie the tippet onto the tippet ring with a san diego jam knot and have both those tags pointing away and strong knots on both sides of the tippet ring.
This test absolutely confirmed that I’ve been using the correct knot. If the triliene knot NEVER broke at the knot. Then it’s the strongest. Period. Mono is not exactly the same strength from end to end of a spool. All you need a knot to do is hold until the line breaks somewhere else. If it can do that. It’s the perfect knot.
The trilene knot weakens the line above the knot so much so, that line above always breaks b4 the knot....this explains the stronger connection of the improved clinch......
@@packerjh2 not even sure what you are trying to say. Been using the trilene knot for 30 years. When I get snagged and have to break it off. I never know where it will break. But it’s never at the knot. I guess that can be a bad thing because sometimes it’s right at the reel and I lose a lot of line. lol.
I have used Trilene knot to tie everything and it never fails me yet by far. I just pulled a 8 lb musky with 6 LB fluro leader 6LB mono main test and ultra light setup ( Fenwick Eagle UL ). Amazing knot !!!
Trilene seems like the winner to me. If the line isn’t breaking at the knot, it seems that the variation in force required to break it can be chalked up to variations in the diameter and strength of the line along its length (all of which is within-spec assuming it’s above the rated strength of the line). IMO never breaking at the knot is the best you can ask for a fishing knot. This takes me back to an engineering internship I had which had me measuring the tensile strength of paracords fastened different ways, including with knots. Great video and good methodology.
I think this is decent reasoning, but it could reasonably be untrue as well. Tying certain knots or just how the knot structurally interacts with the hook and line could lead to weakness in the line that does not manifest as the knot breaking. If we were to see a large data set that shows that a certain knot is consistently leading to lower breaking strength even if we're not breaking off at the knot itself, that is something to consider. The fish doesn't care where your rig breaks and neither should you. These videos are great and valuable tests, but they're not anything close to definitive. You have so many variations in the pound test and material of the line, the type and size of hook, the tying itself, the testing procedure, and how you are applying force to the the setup. Numbers like what I see presented here suggest to me that these knots are roughly equivalent and I would be fine choosing any based on other factors like if I want better action or better ability to shed weeds.
@@gregkosinski2303 All good points - thanks for the comment. This test was with 8lb mono line and repeated 7 times for a stronger dataset. Testing other weights and lures, and with hundreds or thousands or repetitions would be even better.
Is it because the Trilene not is stretching or thinning the line above the knot!? Weakening the line to where it breaks b4 the knot??.....that's why the improved clinch was breaking at higher poundage. It didn't weaken the line around it.
I love the Trilene, especially for Texas Rigs. That tail end coming out the side makes a huge difference when going through slop, it just moves out of the way vs what I used to use, the Palomar, where the end came out the line side. The Palomar pulled up a bunch of shit nearly every time but the Trilene just doesn’t, and it’s super easy to tie.
Thank you :) Amazing video!!! Until now i did not know the name of this knot and I'm using it last 3 years since i actively fishing in Canada and did not disappointed me yet.
Thanks for doing this. But throw out the high and low outliers for each. Sometime I'd like to see somebody do tests under water to eliminate the possibility that knots perform differently when dry or moistened. I gave a Like in part because I always use 8 lb mono :)
That's a really interesting idea. I might have to do that test. The challenge would be getting a waterproof scale because the mono stretches so much. With braid you could keep the scale out of the water and have the line entirely underwater. I use 8lb mono for most of my setups too. It's a perfect balance for most of my fishing scenarios and I've pulled in 20# salmon with it and 50+ inch sturgeon.
@@FishingwithNat Nice! My biggest so far is a 41 inch Pike. But my brother uses 6# test and caught two 42 inch Pikes within an hour of each other. Just have to play them and use a net.
@@paulkline515 That's a beauty. I once saw an ice fisherman pull up a 50-inch musky on 2# fluoro with a panfish rod. If you have patience, you can catch some monsters on light tackle.
@Fishing with Nat, you could create a water tank (clear Rubbermaid tote) with a 50 - 60 pound weight that the lure can be hooked to. Then, simulate by pulling up out of the water with your scale representing the angler's reel.
Would love to see you do some similar testing on some of the popular knots for fluorocarbon line. I know it’s not your go-to but it’s quite popular amongst bass fisherman and many of the classic knots tend to break easier on it than with mono, as it cuts itself. So, most of the popular knots include doubling the line. Another idea would be to get comfortable with each of the top 3 knots or so from each test and time how long they take you to tie, just for reference. Speaking of speed, check out the penny knot! There’s some good videos showing how quick and easy it is, like.. maybe 2-3 seconds! Thanks as always!
I used to use the improved clinch with a knot as close to the tag as i could get it...these days ive been using a tn knot and its amazing..i use lock drag sometimes off the rocks and it never failed...great knot Try it and test it you may like it🙏
Thanks for not giving silly knot ratings like 146%... Too many RUclipsrs pretend that the package rating is correct when you have something like 8lb line that would be more accurately rated close to 12lb.
improved clinch is the king of strength when it comes to fast to tie knots with light line and braid, but it becomes difficult, if not nearly impossible when you try to tie it with thick, heavy line. a lot of old school offshore fishermen favor the 4 wrap uni knot (3 wraps if doubled up, becomes almost impossibe to sitch beyond that), finished with a security hitch on heavy mono/floro (50 lbs or heavier)
I totally agree. The improved clinch is great up to 10-12lb mono or fluoro, but anything heavier than that and I'll switch to a different knot. I typically use the modified Uni for braided lines.
I've tested a bunch of knots head to head. A double uni knot or a double clinch tied correctly are the strongest knots I've found. Double pitzen and San Diego jam were close but not quite as strong
Where exactly did the trident knot break at? Down the line or close to the knot? I myself use this knot and have never had a problem, even pulled my bass boat towards a log I hung up on several times with 17# line
Good video. I think it is all about personal preference and how you wrap and tie them though. For almost 40 years, I have only used three knots total. The improved clinch and snell for freshwater and the improved clinch and chicken rig for saltwater. I honestly can only recall once when I had a knot fail, and that is when I hooked a pike on ultralight tackle when perch fishing.
Hey Nat, I think the line diameter is a key factor, usually US brands have a thicker diameter, and therefore it usually has a higher breaking strength.
These knots were all tied with the same line so they are comparable, but you're right - I've heard that lines in other parts of the world don't always provide the strength that the package claims to.
@@FishingwithNat A lot of Japanese brands will have true breaking strength on the package along with the diameter. Typical for the same breaking strength, Japanese brands will have a thinner line.
I don't understand how the line breaks before the knots. Knots should always break before the line unless the line has some damage. By the way, I love your videos.
Thanks. It's a good question. Some knots seem to create abrasions or stretch the line out, weakening it. Perhaps a solid knot tied well may actually keep the line from stretching and distribute the stress across the whole knot.
While it is interesting to see which knot is stronger in a practical sense it doesn’t matter as your drag should be set well below the break strength of any of these knots basically 2 to 3 pounds…
This is the playlist of knots we tested: Non-slip loop knot ruclips.net/video/yT5kC35LVIk/видео.html San Diego Jam Knot ruclips.net/video/eiKjTJAfT74/видео.html Improved clinch knot (fisherman’s knot) ruclips.net/video/2YO7JWNdVC0/видео.html Uni knot ruclips.net/video/IOv8vJqK1H0/видео.html Double Uni knot ruclips.net/video/DfM-iF_vYUk/видео.html Modified Uni knot (best for braid) ruclips.net/video/uIaXE9izLzo/видео.html Trilene knot ruclips.net/video/MQ9sCXQNGMI/видео.html
yes, trilene knot is the strongest knot...proven unbreakable against big fights in pacific marianas/micronesia reef and land-based waters...after trilene knot, i provide an additional 1/2-inch long tag with an overhand knot at its end...tag overhand knot is a "marker" for periodic inspection especially after a big fight..
"marker" (tag overhand knot) helps determine if tag length has shortened or slipped any after a big fight or a snag.. has never happened to me (knock on wood), but maybe.. if tag slipping, a marker tag overhand knot might act as a last-minute stopper to keep trilene knot in tact during a fight, prevents tag from completely slipping through the tight qty-2 initial eye loops of trilene knot...¯\_(ツ)_/¯ maybe?.. excellent knot comparison video...thank you.. @@FishingwithNat
I used a standard non-slip loop knot. You can see me tie it here: ruclips.net/video/yT5kC35LVIk/видео.html Like you said, there are many loop knots, so I might do a test video comparing a whole bunch of loop knots soon.
I don't know anything about tying knots, never having been a Boy Scout, so I just have always used the one my dad showed me, turns out to be the palomar. Tie that onto the end of a leader (I always just fish for pike) and I have pulled in a 7lb pike on 4 lb line and a 20lb pike on 8lb line. It has been my experience that the drag setting is probably as important, given that the 7lb pike made a couple last second runs just before I was about to land him, but since the drag was loose enough he didn't snap the line...I just kept winching him in, pull on the rod, take in the slack until I was able to grab him around the scruff of the neck. I squish all my barbs shut so that the hooks come right out, no blood or hurt. Then weigh, take the photo of the fishie, a pat on the head and a tummy rub and back they go into the water. 🙂
I like your system. Yes, the drag is crucial. With a properly set drag system, the weight of the line doesn't matter much anymore, as long as you're ok with a ton of line being stripped out by a big fish. A light setup can also stress out a fish more by seriously tiring it out with a long fight, so that's something else to keep in mind. I use a fair number of barbless hooks too when I'm not planning to keep any fish for dinner.
@@FishingwithNat my spot is a little pond along the river that passes through town, formed by boulders laid out by the City into the river next to a storm drain culvert; I have good wind protection from the north and west, the roadway above is probably 50' above the water. It is probably 30 yards to the opposite bank of the pond and 50 yards from the mouth of the culvert to the passing river current, and I would guess it is 5 or 6 feet deep in the middle. I never have great luck, as in multiple fishies a day, I think my best was 9 in a couple hrs, most times I get one, sometimes the spot dies for days or a couple weeks. A couple times the fish has taken off into the current, those are always times my heart skips a beat and I get a knot in my stomach...lol I take photos of all my fishies and have had multiple cases of catching the same fish days or weeks apart, so that is good because I must not be harming them with my method. Most times the fish takes off as soon as set him back in the water, but a few times (even when there hasn't been much of a fight) the fish will just sit motionless in the water a foot from my feet...the pectoral fins are lightly waving and the gills slowly open and close and then a slow wave of the tail and it slowly swims away; that is always fun to watch. I had a 20 pounder on a few weeks ago, he took two last second runs and even jumped his head and first foot of his body out of the water, and as I reached down to grab him, the line broke when my hand was a foot from grabbing him.... 😭😭😭 I am hoping he lives in the area and hasn't let the current take him on a cruise miles away, and that he will be one that I catch more than once.
Hey Nat, have you ever tried/tested or maybe can test a loop to loop knot to connect to a lure? Using one bigger loop made on a leader and built-in metal loop on a lure itself. I wonder if it is weaket than a clinch o palomar. As in such connection it give you ability to change lures without snap.
That's the way we tied it when doing this test - as seen in this loop knot demo video ruclips.net/video/yT5kC35LVIk/видео.html . One big loop connected to the metal loop built into the lure. It doesn't allow for lure changes without cutting the knot though. Is this what you have in mind?
@@FishingwithNat not exactly. I mean loop to loop connection, like when you connect a leader to main line with a feeder or fly line to leader. If you make bigger loop it will allow you to use it on most of jigs and short lures. Like in this video ruclips.net/video/L3YBTzr5iDI/видео.html but as a second loop you use metal ring of a lure itself.
Yeah, for this test I used the same line for all of the knots, but it would be interesting to see if the different knots ranked the same with other line weights or braid/fluoro lines.
@@FishingwithNat yea I tie knots a lot with tiny fly fishing tippets so it's interesting to me if more wraps for knots equals more strength. Also some people say that braid can slip more easily.
@@AsgarnianAle I would say more wraps does equal more strength (and less slip) up to a point. After a while, it doesn't make any significant difference. I do have a favorite knot for slippery braid (I'm not sure if it even has a name) that I use when tying 8/10/15lb braid so it doesn't slip through the knot. I plan to make a few more videos on knots and knot tests this fall/winter.
The Trilene knot itself was stronger than the line was in all cases. In the other knots, there must be some weakening of the line within the knot that caused knot failures before the line broke.
@@FishingwithNat but see heres the thing.....your breakage numbers w trilenes were notably lower w the knot....so allowing for the fact ur line was fresh out of the box....its suggested here that the strength of the knot or tightness of the knot doesnt allow the same give possibly the other knots? what are your thoughts on the best knot to go with here?
@@stevec69 It's a good question. Some of the other knots did have a higher average breaking strength of the line. I think it's probably due mostly to variation of the line itself. I repeated the text 7 times with each knot to get a more accurate average and account for some of this variation. All of the knots had a substantial amount of variation between each of their tests. I stand by my top picks of modified Uni, improved clinch, Palomar, and Trilene knot because of their high scores with both breaking strength and knot-holding. These are the four I've been using the most and I continue to be impressed with all of them.
But was it the knot that broke or the fishing line? If the breaks didn’t happen at the knot, these results don’t mean anything except a variation in breaking strength in 1 roll of fishing line.
The San Diego Jam knot has the highest average pull rating. But the test data shows the knot failed 4 out of 7. Where the Trilene knot may have not reached the peak of the San Diego Jam. The Trilene knot never failed out of 7 attempts. Getting an extra lb or two out of knot isnt important for me. Whats important is it wont fail,. Thats because under a microscope the Trilene doesnt cut into the line like some of the other knots ie San Diego Jam and other excellent knots. For me i prefer the Trilene because it has the best #1 reliable knot the data shows which is most important, coupled with 100% knot, it has the best combo of both worlds combined.
What you called a modified uni is my Fish-N-Fool knot, that I created some 40 years ago. It won the "Knot Wars" TV show back in 2009. There are hundreds of videos on RUclips that are supposed to show how to tie my knot, but none of them show how to tie it correctly, and you didn't either.
@@FishingwithNat No you just tied a Fish-N-Fool knot in a poor way, watch my video on the correct way to tie it. The main thing most guys do is not making sure the lines do not cross on the hookeye. ruclips.net/video/oA2XKUF11_8/видео.html
I also find it interesting that your results don't match any test I ever seen done. The Imp. clinch is always one of the weakest knots on every test but yours. I would also say that a correctly tied Fish-N-Fool knot would easily been the best knot in this group. I would say the lower breaking Fish-N-Fool knots were the ones tied poorly.
Different knots have different strengths and also work best with certain applications. A knot that works well with 6lb fishing line may not work well with 30lb line, or a knot that works well on monofilament line may not work with braided lines. It's always good to know more than one knot option.
@@FishingwithNat hmm I'm just trying to think about the physics of it. How could the knot break before the line strength threshold? I've seen in some tests that the knot breaks at like 70%. Kinda weird. I mean unless the knot unravels or something.
@@FC2ESWS Sometimes the knot construction itself will stretch/gouge/weaken the line within the knot, causing it to break within the knot before the straight sections of the line will break.
Why not just get good at tying a decent, uncomplicated knot, like a uni, trilene, or improved clinch and then set your drag properly to fight the fish? Knots break when the drag is not set right.
I agree that it's best to learn a couple of good knots that you are comfortable tying and tying well. At that point, adjusting your drag and using leaders as needed will prevent most issues with breaking off.
As long as you dont tie a knot wrong who cares about 10%... the thing that pisses me off most in europe that if it says 10kg on the package then you will get a breaking strenght of 5kg wheres in other countries its mostly the opposite
@@FishingwithNat yeah idk who started the stupid trend like the same spool with diameter x has a european packaging where it says 17kg and then the same diameter with an australian spool and there it says 9kg like wtf
Just one mans opinion that has been fishing for over 50 years I do not see how any knot that holds to MORE than 100% of the breaking strength let alone 110% of the line can possibly not be judged as a complete success Now factor in your reels drag set properly and using your rod properly to reduce the forces on your line while fighting a fish and a knot that holds to 110% of the braking strength of your fishing line becomes even more reliable My problem with 99% of these knot breaking strength tests are the methodology of apply force by a human is absolutely and utterly inconsistent and in my opinion inconsistencies yeild results that can not be regarded as both accurate and reliable
In this test, I tried to keep everything as consistent as possible by having the spool secured and pulling straight up in the same way with the same length of line each time, and removing several feet of line after each test just in case the nearby line was compromised in any way from each test. I think some lines are stronger than their strength rating, which will obviously increase the breaking strength of any knot used on that line as well. Regardless of your line or knot, you shouldn't be pushing either of those to their braking strength. That's the purpose of the reel's drag system.
I use the Trilene knot exclusively, not only for its awesome hold strength when tied correctly, but the tag points away from the rod- this less weed, moss snag potential to fowl the line w/ each reel.
Great video!
Agreed. It is a great knot and I like knots that have the tag pointed toward the bait for exactly that reason.
one application I really love the trilene knot for is tying a tippet ring onto the middle/butt end of your leader in fly fishing. The tag points away from you and you have a very strong knot holding the tippet ring on. Usually I'd just tie a clinch knot on the other side, but one could tie the tippet onto the tippet ring with a san diego jam knot and have both those tags pointing away and strong knots on both sides of the tippet ring.
This test absolutely confirmed that I’ve been using the correct knot. If the triliene knot NEVER broke at the knot. Then it’s the strongest. Period. Mono is not exactly the same strength from end to end of a spool. All you need a knot to do is hold until the line breaks somewhere else. If it can do that. It’s the perfect knot.
I agree.
The trilene knot weakens the line above the knot so much so, that line above always breaks b4 the knot....this explains the stronger connection of the improved clinch......
@@packerjh2 not even sure what you are trying to say. Been using the trilene knot for 30 years. When I get snagged and have to break it off. I never know where it will break. But it’s never at the knot. I guess that can be a bad thing because sometimes it’s right at the reel and I lose a lot of line. lol.
I have used Trilene knot to tie everything and it never fails me yet by far. I just pulled a 8 lb musky with 6 LB fluro leader 6LB mono main test and ultra light setup ( Fenwick Eagle UL ). Amazing knot !!!
Nice...sounds like a blast. I've been using the Trilene knot a lot after this test and I haven't been let down yet either.
Trilene seems like the winner to me. If the line isn’t breaking at the knot, it seems that the variation in force required to break it can be chalked up to variations in the diameter and strength of the line along its length (all of which is within-spec assuming it’s above the rated strength of the line). IMO never breaking at the knot is the best you can ask for a fishing knot.
This takes me back to an engineering internship I had which had me measuring the tensile strength of paracords fastened different ways, including with knots. Great video and good methodology.
Thanks, I agree with your thoughts.
I think this is decent reasoning, but it could reasonably be untrue as well. Tying certain knots or just how the knot structurally interacts with the hook and line could lead to weakness in the line that does not manifest as the knot breaking. If we were to see a large data set that shows that a certain knot is consistently leading to lower breaking strength even if we're not breaking off at the knot itself, that is something to consider. The fish doesn't care where your rig breaks and neither should you.
These videos are great and valuable tests, but they're not anything close to definitive. You have so many variations in the pound test and material of the line, the type and size of hook, the tying itself, the testing procedure, and how you are applying force to the the setup. Numbers like what I see presented here suggest to me that these knots are roughly equivalent and I would be fine choosing any based on other factors like if I want better action or better ability to shed weeds.
@@gregkosinski2303 All good points - thanks for the comment. This test was with 8lb mono line and repeated 7 times for a stronger dataset. Testing other weights and lures, and with hundreds or thousands or repetitions would be even better.
@@gregkosinski2303then make us a better video.
Is it because the Trilene not is stretching or thinning the line above the knot!? Weakening the line to where it breaks b4 the knot??.....that's why the improved clinch was breaking at higher poundage. It didn't weaken the line around it.
That was cool to see how much improvement came with an extra pass through the eye between the uni and modified uni
The extra pass really helps to reduce slippage with braid and seems to strengthen the knot quite a bit too.
I love the Trilene, especially for Texas Rigs. That tail end coming out the side makes a huge difference when going through slop, it just moves out of the way vs what I used to use, the Palomar, where the end came out the line side. The Palomar pulled up a bunch of shit nearly every time but the Trilene just doesn’t, and it’s super easy to tie.
Absolutely. The direction of the line tie is a big factor in choosing the right knot for the right application.
Thank you :)
Amazing video!!!
Until now i did not know the name of this knot and I'm using it last 3 years since i actively fishing in Canada and did not disappointed me yet.
Thanks
Thanks for doing this. But throw out the high and low outliers for each. Sometime I'd like to see somebody do tests under water to eliminate the possibility that knots perform differently when dry or moistened. I gave a Like in part because I always use 8 lb mono :)
That's a really interesting idea. I might have to do that test. The challenge would be getting a waterproof scale because the mono stretches so much. With braid you could keep the scale out of the water and have the line entirely underwater. I use 8lb mono for most of my setups too. It's a perfect balance for most of my fishing scenarios and I've pulled in 20# salmon with it and 50+ inch sturgeon.
@@FishingwithNat Nice! My biggest so far is a 41 inch Pike. But my brother uses 6# test and caught two 42 inch Pikes within an hour of each other. Just have to play them and use a net.
@@paulkline515 That's a beauty. I once saw an ice fisherman pull up a 50-inch musky on 2# fluoro with a panfish rod. If you have patience, you can catch some monsters on light tackle.
@Fishing with Nat, you could create a water tank (clear Rubbermaid tote) with a 50 - 60 pound weight that the lure can be hooked to. Then, simulate by pulling up out of the water with your scale representing the angler's reel.
what makes you think any values are outliers and why would you throw them out?
Trilene knot was the terminal knot on that 6 lb fluoro that brought up the 52 in sturgeon last week. I love that knot.
It's a very solid knot. I like it too.
Great comparisons! And here I thought the Palomar was the end all be all. Would be interesting to see how these same knots do with braided line
It's on my list to test. And for that matter, fluorocarbon too.
P
I thanks you very much, it’s a very nice video
@@paolorizzo8409 Thanks. I'm glad you liked it.
Palomar is still my go-to as it's so simple to tie, and holds very well.
Would love to see you do some similar testing on some of the popular knots for fluorocarbon line. I know it’s not your go-to but it’s quite popular amongst bass fisherman and many of the classic knots tend to break easier on it than with mono, as it cuts itself. So, most of the popular knots include doubling the line. Another idea would be to get comfortable with each of the top 3 knots or so from each test and time how long they take you to tie, just for reference. Speaking of speed, check out the penny knot! There’s some good videos showing how quick and easy it is, like.. maybe 2-3 seconds! Thanks as always!
Thanks for the suggestions. I like your ideas.
I used to use the improved clinch with a knot as close to the tag as i could get it...these days ive been using a tn knot and its amazing..i use lock drag sometimes off the rocks and it never failed...great knot
Try it and test it you may like it🙏
Cool. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for not giving silly knot ratings like 146%... Too many RUclipsrs pretend that the package rating is correct when you have something like 8lb line that would be more accurately rated close to 12lb.
Thanks for the feedback
improved clinch is the king of strength when it comes to fast to tie knots with light line and braid, but it becomes difficult, if not nearly impossible when you try to tie it with thick, heavy line. a lot of old school offshore fishermen favor the 4 wrap uni knot (3 wraps if doubled up, becomes almost impossibe to sitch beyond that), finished with a security hitch on heavy mono/floro (50 lbs or heavier)
I totally agree. The improved clinch is great up to 10-12lb mono or fluoro, but anything heavier than that and I'll switch to a different knot. I typically use the modified Uni for braided lines.
I've tested a bunch of knots head to head. A double uni knot or a double clinch tied correctly are the strongest knots I've found. Double pitzen and San Diego jam were close but not quite as strong
The modified Uni and Trilene knot are my most frequently tied knots. Easy, strong, and reliable.
Where exactly did the trident knot break at? Down the line or close to the knot? I myself use this knot and have never had a problem, even pulled my bass boat towards a log I hung up on several times with 17# line
Usually at least several inches down the line from the knot.
Good video. I think it is all about personal preference and how you wrap and tie them though. For almost 40 years, I have only used three knots total. The improved clinch and snell for freshwater and the improved clinch and chicken rig for saltwater. I honestly can only recall once when I had a knot fail, and that is when I hooked a pike on ultralight tackle when perch fishing.
Thanks for the comment. Personal preference definitely plays a role - find a few good knots that you can tie quickly and easily, and roll with those.
Hey Nat, I think the line diameter is a key factor, usually US brands have a thicker diameter, and therefore it usually has a higher breaking strength.
These knots were all tied with the same line so they are comparable, but you're right - I've heard that lines in other parts of the world don't always provide the strength that the package claims to.
@@FishingwithNat A lot of Japanese brands will have true breaking strength on the package along with the diameter. Typical for the same breaking strength, Japanese brands will have a thinner line.
I don't understand how the line breaks before the knots. Knots should always break before the line unless the line has some damage. By the way, I love your videos.
Thanks. It's a good question. Some knots seem to create abrasions or stretch the line out, weakening it. Perhaps a solid knot tied well may actually keep the line from stretching and distribute the stress across the whole knot.
While it is interesting to see which knot is stronger in a practical sense it doesn’t matter as your drag should be set well below the break strength of any of these knots basically 2 to 3 pounds…
I agree.
You reference a different video, can you share a link to that video? Thanks!
This is the playlist of knots we tested:
Non-slip loop knot ruclips.net/video/yT5kC35LVIk/видео.html
San Diego Jam Knot ruclips.net/video/eiKjTJAfT74/видео.html
Improved clinch knot (fisherman’s knot) ruclips.net/video/2YO7JWNdVC0/видео.html
Uni knot ruclips.net/video/IOv8vJqK1H0/видео.html
Double Uni knot ruclips.net/video/DfM-iF_vYUk/видео.html
Modified Uni knot (best for braid) ruclips.net/video/uIaXE9izLzo/видео.html
Trilene knot ruclips.net/video/MQ9sCXQNGMI/видео.html
yes, trilene knot is the strongest knot...proven unbreakable against big fights in pacific marianas/micronesia reef and land-based waters...after trilene knot, i provide an additional 1/2-inch long tag with an overhand knot at its end...tag overhand knot is a "marker" for periodic inspection especially after a big fight..
Not a bad idea. Thanks for sharing.
"marker" (tag overhand knot) helps determine if tag length has shortened or slipped any after a big fight or a snag..
has never happened to me (knock on wood), but maybe..
if tag slipping, a marker tag overhand knot might act as a last-minute stopper to keep trilene knot in tact during a fight, prevents tag from completely slipping through the tight qty-2 initial eye loops of trilene knot...¯\_(ツ)_/¯ maybe?..
excellent knot comparison video...thank you..
@@FishingwithNat
@@bernardllarenas7772 Thanks for the feedback and good tip.
Which loop knot? There are several. I used to use Bob Popovics loop but now I use the homer roads loop knot. Which one did you use?
I used a standard non-slip loop knot. You can see me tie it here: ruclips.net/video/yT5kC35LVIk/видео.html Like you said, there are many loop knots, so I might do a test video comparing a whole bunch of loop knots soon.
@@FishingwithNat that would be great!
@@augustonthefly Stay tuned...
palomar for me, quick and easy and holds up very well
It's a solid knot
I don't know anything about tying knots, never having been a Boy Scout, so I just have always used the one my dad showed me, turns out to be the palomar. Tie that onto the end of a leader (I always just fish for pike) and I have pulled in a 7lb pike on 4 lb line and a 20lb pike on 8lb line.
It has been my experience that the drag setting is probably as important, given that the 7lb pike made a couple last second runs just before I was about to land him, but since the drag was loose enough he didn't snap the line...I just kept winching him in, pull on the rod, take in the slack until I was able to grab him around the scruff of the neck.
I squish all my barbs shut so that the hooks come right out, no blood or hurt. Then weigh, take the photo of the fishie, a pat on the head and a tummy rub and back they go into the water. 🙂
I like your system. Yes, the drag is crucial. With a properly set drag system, the weight of the line doesn't matter much anymore, as long as you're ok with a ton of line being stripped out by a big fish. A light setup can also stress out a fish more by seriously tiring it out with a long fight, so that's something else to keep in mind. I use a fair number of barbless hooks too when I'm not planning to keep any fish for dinner.
@@FishingwithNat my spot is a little pond along the river that passes through town, formed by boulders laid out by the City into the river next to a storm drain culvert; I have good wind protection from the north and west, the roadway above is probably 50' above the water. It is probably 30 yards to the opposite bank of the pond and 50 yards from the mouth of the culvert to the passing river current, and I would guess it is 5 or 6 feet deep in the middle.
I never have great luck, as in multiple fishies a day, I think my best was 9 in a couple hrs, most times I get one, sometimes the spot dies for days or a couple weeks. A couple times the fish has taken off into the current, those are always times my heart skips a beat and I get a knot in my stomach...lol
I take photos of all my fishies and have had multiple cases of catching the same fish days or weeks apart, so that is good because I must not be harming them with my method. Most times the fish takes off as soon as set him back in the water, but a few times (even when there hasn't been much of a fight) the fish will just sit motionless in the water a foot from my feet...the pectoral fins are lightly waving and the gills slowly open and close and then a slow wave of the tail and it slowly swims away; that is always fun to watch.
I had a 20 pounder on a few weeks ago, he took two last second runs and even jumped his head and first foot of his body out of the water, and as I reached down to grab him, the line broke when my hand was a foot from grabbing him.... 😭😭😭
I am hoping he lives in the area and hasn't let the current take him on a cruise miles away, and that he will be one that I catch more than once.
@@michaelzilkowsky2936 What kind of fish was the 20 pounder?
@@FishingwithNat northern pike
@@michaelzilkowsky2936 Awesome
what's the "modified" uni? initially going through the eye of the hook twice?
Right - two passes through the eye and adding a couple of extra wraps. It's better for light braided lines that like to slip out of knots.
Hey Nat, have you ever tried/tested or maybe can test a loop to loop knot to connect to a lure? Using one bigger loop made on a leader and built-in metal loop on a lure itself. I wonder if it is weaket than a clinch o palomar. As in such connection it give you ability to change lures without snap.
That's the way we tied it when doing this test - as seen in this loop knot demo video ruclips.net/video/yT5kC35LVIk/видео.html . One big loop connected to the metal loop built into the lure. It doesn't allow for lure changes without cutting the knot though. Is this what you have in mind?
@@FishingwithNat not exactly. I mean loop to loop connection, like when you connect a leader to main line with a feeder or fly line to leader. If you make bigger loop it will allow you to use it on most of jigs and short lures. Like in this video ruclips.net/video/L3YBTzr5iDI/видео.html but as a second loop you use metal ring of a lure itself.
@@pradd2004 Oh, gotcha. Sounds like a fun test to me. :)
I'm asking before scrolling, but have you done any of these tests with different leader knots?
Not yet
Isn't the Trilene knot the winner since it didn't fail at all?
It's an excellent knot and is definitely at the top of the list. Very impressive that it didn't fail even once.
I think what this show is you have real incnstiancy in tieing your knots.
Maybe, but I don't think so.
I’m going with palomer and trilene knot before I even watch this completely. Try 60lbs dead weight and only the two i mentioned held.
Both of those are very solid knots.
My scientifically minded suggestion would be to try the same tests with different line diameters. Good video btw
Yeah, for this test I used the same line for all of the knots, but it would be interesting to see if the different knots ranked the same with other line weights or braid/fluoro lines.
@@FishingwithNat yea I tie knots a lot with tiny fly fishing tippets so it's interesting to me if more wraps for knots equals more strength. Also some people say that braid can slip more easily.
@@AsgarnianAle I would say more wraps does equal more strength (and less slip) up to a point. After a while, it doesn't make any significant difference. I do have a favorite knot for slippery braid (I'm not sure if it even has a name) that I use when tying 8/10/15lb braid so it doesn't slip through the knot. I plan to make a few more videos on knots and knot tests this fall/winter.
how do you explain the knot holding but lower breaking strength (trilene)
The Trilene knot itself was stronger than the line was in all cases. In the other knots, there must be some weakening of the line within the knot that caused knot failures before the line broke.
@@FishingwithNat hold it this is a little mind blowing
@@FishingwithNat but see heres the thing.....your breakage numbers w trilenes were notably lower w the knot....so allowing for the fact ur line was fresh out of the box....its suggested here that the strength of the knot or tightness of the knot doesnt allow the same give possibly the other knots?
what are your thoughts on the best knot to go with here?
@@FishingwithNat we need a physicist
@@stevec69 It's a good question. Some of the other knots did have a higher average breaking strength of the line. I think it's probably due mostly to variation of the line itself. I repeated the text 7 times with each knot to get a more accurate average and account for some of this variation. All of the knots had a substantial amount of variation between each of their tests. I stand by my top picks of modified Uni, improved clinch, Palomar, and Trilene knot because of their high scores with both breaking strength and knot-holding. These are the four I've been using the most and I continue to be impressed with all of them.
Only knot that I have never had fail on me is the Double Pitzen!!!
Another good one. Very similar to the San Diego jam.
But was it the knot that broke or the fishing line? If the breaks didn’t happen at the knot, these results don’t mean anything except a variation in breaking strength in 1 roll of fishing line.
Right. During the video I indicated which knots actually broke at the knot and which broke on the line.
The San Diego Jam knot has the highest average pull rating. But the test data shows the knot failed 4 out of 7. Where the Trilene knot may have not reached the peak of the San Diego Jam. The Trilene knot never failed out of 7 attempts. Getting an extra lb or two out of knot isnt important for me. Whats important is it wont fail,. Thats because under a microscope the Trilene doesnt cut into the line like some of the other knots ie San Diego Jam and other excellent knots. For me i prefer the Trilene because it has the best #1 reliable knot the data shows which is most important, coupled with 100% knot, it has the best combo of both worlds combined.
Well said. It's a tried and true knot.
thumbs up for snaps
Thanks for watching
What you called a modified uni is my Fish-N-Fool knot, that I created some 40 years ago. It won the "Knot Wars" TV show back in 2009. There are hundreds of videos on RUclips that are supposed to show how to tie my knot, but none of them show how to tie it correctly, and you didn't either.
That's cool...it's a great knot. But if I didn't tie it correctly, wouldn't it be a different knot?
@@FishingwithNat No you just tied a Fish-N-Fool knot in a poor way, watch my video on the correct way to tie it. The main thing most guys do is not making sure the lines do not cross on the hookeye. ruclips.net/video/oA2XKUF11_8/видео.html
I also find it interesting that your results don't match any test I ever seen done. The Imp. clinch is always one of the weakest knots on every test but yours. I would also say that a correctly tied Fish-N-Fool knot would easily been the best knot in this group. I would say the lower breaking Fish-N-Fool knots were the ones tied poorly.
Good luck nice to video ok bnget salam dari pendukung baru hadir bos..👍👍🙏🙏🙏
Thanks
Thanks...
Thanks for watching!
What’s wrong with a regular knot ?
Different knots have different strengths and also work best with certain applications. A knot that works well with 6lb fishing line may not work well with 30lb line, or a knot that works well on monofilament line may not work with braided lines. It's always good to know more than one knot option.
I'm knot worried...
Oh, knot to worry.
If all of the knots held then doesn't that mean you need to go to a higher strength line?
If the line was stronger, the knots would also be able to handle more strength.
@@FishingwithNat hmm I'm just trying to think about the physics of it. How could the knot break before the line strength threshold? I've seen in some tests that the knot breaks at like 70%. Kinda weird. I mean unless the knot unravels or something.
@@FC2ESWS Sometimes the knot construction itself will stretch/gouge/weaken the line within the knot, causing it to break within the knot before the straight sections of the line will break.
An unlubricated knot can also be weak because the heat of cinching the knot down can burn the line and weaken it.
Why not just get good at tying a decent, uncomplicated knot, like a uni, trilene, or improved clinch and then set your drag properly to fight the fish? Knots break when the drag is not set right.
I agree that it's best to learn a couple of good knots that you are comfortable tying and tying well. At that point, adjusting your drag and using leaders as needed will prevent most issues with breaking off.
As long as you dont tie a knot wrong who cares about 10%... the thing that pisses me off most in europe that if it says 10kg on the package then you will get a breaking strenght of 5kg wheres in other countries its mostly the opposite
That's weird and stupid to label a line as 10kg if it can't achieve a breaking strength anywhere near that.
@@FishingwithNat yeah idk who started the stupid trend like the same spool with diameter x has a european packaging where it says 17kg and then the same diameter with an australian spool and there it says 9kg like wtf
@@spayrex_ Seems suspicious.
That's a fish scale, not a tensile strength testing machine
That's correct.
Just one mans opinion that has been fishing for over 50 years
I do not see how any knot that holds to MORE than 100% of the breaking strength let alone 110% of the line can possibly not be judged as a complete success
Now factor in your reels drag set properly and using your rod properly to reduce the forces on your line while fighting a fish and a knot that holds to 110% of the braking strength of your fishing line becomes even more reliable
My problem with 99% of these knot breaking strength tests are the methodology of apply force by a human is absolutely and utterly inconsistent and in my opinion inconsistencies yeild results that can not be regarded as both accurate and reliable
In this test, I tried to keep everything as consistent as possible by having the spool secured and pulling straight up in the same way with the same length of line each time, and removing several feet of line after each test just in case the nearby line was compromised in any way from each test.
I think some lines are stronger than their strength rating, which will obviously increase the breaking strength of any knot used on that line as well. Regardless of your line or knot, you shouldn't be pushing either of those to their braking strength. That's the purpose of the reel's drag system.