LOL! I'm charged up for you man... Good luck with your build; I'll be shocked... if you aren't successful. Thanks for... relaying... me your feedback on this video!
@@RedBeardOps Sorry to be cheesy... but I'm just over here... wired... on some coffee. I think I have the... capacity... to tackle this project, but we will see! :)
That is one of the best detailed and explained videos on oven building around. You did a GREAT job of designing the oven, AND documenting the build. Thanks for taking the time for all that video editing work.
Thank you for sharing this! This walkthrough was super helpful and the equipment list is such a great resource. I created a parallel build and found that making the channels in the fire brick with tight tolerance for my coil diameter caused my bricks to crack when the Kanthal expanded. Maybe a lesson learned that could help other viewers.
Great video! Coming from a pottery background, if you need to help keep the elements in their grooves, you can take old/extra element wire and bend it into a J shape. Then just push them into the soft brick where needed.
@@RedBeardOps A few times through and, as much as I love the video I think I'm gonna tap out on this one and save up to buy one. Mechanical and structural stuff is one thing. But screwing with electricity at that level is a bit beyond my ken. In the immortal words of Dirty Harry: "A man's got to know his limitations." o7
Great job. I'm an electrician and very impressed with your explanation. You can add a cooling fan to box to keep components cooler. I have been wanting to make one and I love your design.
Your build videos are second to none. Truly. Thank you. If you come to my shop you will find your press and your oven. To build these projects was inspiring. To document and freely share hit the high mark. Thanks again!
Nice build - really excellent result, and very good and detailed description. Just a note for any one building one. There is no point in using two SSRs - one for each end of the coil, when you are on a single phase. The current you run through one is the same current you run through the other. You just get double the voltage drop over the SSRs (which is probably insignificant in this case), but main point is no benefit and twice the cost and hassle of wiring. And as noted by others, no reason to fuse the PID with a big fuse separately. The manufactorers pdf manual for the controller has a wiring suggestion for a heater build that should be followed - it uses the correct wiring with regards to fusing and using one SSR.
Yeah, a wonderful project:) And you are absolutely correct with your analysis: The wiring is SERIAL, one net-loop, so no need for two silicon state relays. Just some engineering background (and advice, nobody asked for **g** ): Red Beard says something like "... a fuse to protect the PID [regulator] ...". That fuse should then be dimensioned to the max input current of the device, denoted by the datasheet. For the protection of normal devices 1.1 to 1.2 x nominal current / slow blowing fuse. Or to protect semiconductor devices (like SSRs) with 1.2 to 1.5 nominal current but with fast blowing or semiconductor rated fuse(Ballpark numbers, if present use the values specified by the manufacturer = RTFM:) ). But for such a small and relatively simple (in contrast to a complex) device? After all, also those fuses are ADDITIONAL to the ones he already wired in, which (the background part: ) are fuses to protect the WIRING! Like in your house-installation. They serve the purpose that in the event of a short circuit (heating element or regulator or the wiring itself or some dumb human juggling a screwdriver ...), the entire wiring does not turn into a fire hazard/heating element itself. The fuses must therefore be designed according to the conductor cross-section and thus the rated current. If the/a secondary fuse is dimensioned as a device protection fuse, then the correct value for the special device must also be selected. Anything in between, or "by feel" doesn't make any sense at all:) Just my (and by the basics of electrical design) 2 Amps ... I meant cents. About Cable Glands: I found it wonderful, that he works with cable glands. That is professional. But ... cable glands are for ONE cable, each[1]. The great thing about them is the screwable and totally sealing strain relief. If you use two cables or even three .... then you can omit those things. And please don't say anyone DUCT TAPE. We have enough plonkers here, who shoot themselves in the foot, regularly on RUclips:) [1] That solves also the mystery, why they come in different sizes ... :P About Thermoelements: Whats positive and what is negative? No needs to speculate. Red Beard has mentioned his "high quality super duper multimeter". USE IT! Use a heat gun and measure the output voltage of the element. Then you KNOW!:) (Also good advice for dogs and color blind people, hehe)
Excellent tutorial! In the process of wrapping mine up. I have the first heat cycle going now. Just have to add a back panel and paint. You made it super easy to build. I appreciate it!
Absolutely superb video! I used it as a guide when I made my own control box and I just test ran it. Everything worked perfectly! Thank you very much for having made this video.
I'm a jewelry artist and it one point I was thinking of making my knives from scratch and than engraving them. After watching this video I think I will just buy blank knife blades from folks who have put in so much time and equipment into their work. There is only so much time and space we have to do the things we love. Your video has only made me more aware of the craftsmanship and skill that goes into knife making. Thank you.
I’m just getting started after having build my first forge a few years ago and selling it. Now building a new forge, next will probably be a belt grinder and for sure this will be one over build that I’ll take inspiration from. Great job.
Really great built video! Thank you for putting this up. I'm going to build an oven for aluminum casting and this will be a great help. Love the idea of using a benchtop drill press as an overhead router for the bricks - that's genius actually. If you used a regular router or router table all that silicon dioxide dust would probably completely destroy the router. But with the drill press, the motor and bearings are mostly out of the way. Such a good idea!
this is awesome, my only problem. couldn't you have released this a month ago before I started building my propane oven lol. This will be my next oven build for sure, thanks for such a comprehensive tutorial.
Nice video and well done. By far from the videos I have watched this seems to be the most details. Thank you for that, wish you the best in your future endeavors.
Really nice build on that oven. I just finished building mine about 2 weeks ago and although not as aesthetically finished as yours it does the job. I built mine with inside dimensions of width 6" x height 5.5" x depth 22.5". Wanted to be able to heat treat the camp choppers I make. Was able to do it for just under $500. Most expensive parts were the bricks and the angle iron since I didn't have any angle on hand. I used an Inkbird PID which seems to work quite well. I am having issues with the crappy hinge I used for the door so will have to go with something like you used. Looks a lot more sturdy. Again great build.
Nice build. Thank you for going through the mistakes you made and how you corrected them as well. Thats a big help to all of us attempting tbe same project.
Awesome tutorial, I´ve already made my own oven, but for me the main problem was the fire bricks. I can only find here in Brazil refratary bricks that were solids as a rock and to cut them were very difficult. I used only one SSR and after 10 min it melts, so I used a air cooler. Your oven it´s great, on of the best diy on YT!!!
I completed most of the wiring today, just have to make and connect the elements, and detail the power supply. Fun build, man! Thanks for making it easy!
Superb build& impressive video plus details guide for guys like me, beginners with small budgets and big technical resources congratulation again ! Cheers from Argentina
35:36 hey man I built this kiln and it works flawlessly except I added a second thermo coupler and I have a 300 degree difference between the one on the lid and the additional. What would you recommend doing about it. The second one is not a cheap thermo coupler.
That's interesting that you're getting different readings. I'd suggest making sure they're calibrated with a bucket of ice water or something along those lines
you did 1 hell of ajob on that oven it came out fantastic glad you finally did this video i wish it was here a few months back but im happy with my oven i built
Awesome build mate! Very inspirational for an aspiring knife maker. Super informative and really well paced video. Thank you very much. Greatly appreciated.
This is a really awesome tutorial/video appreciate all of the hard work that went into this. THe knife making making community has some really great content and yor stuff is on the top of that. THANKS!
I've been doing automotive and industrial wiring for nearly 20 years now. When in doubt on wire size, always go bigger. It leaves room later to expand the part/machine and it guarantees smooth operation.
Hope yall liked this one! As a reminder the links to the wiring diagram and components are in the description. Cheers! 🙌 -- If yall found this helpful and want to support the channel, the amazon links in the description are affiliate links and here is the RBO patron - www.patreon.com/RedBeardOps
Great video and great timing, I pretty much did the same thing as you looking at all those different resources and combining them into the design I want, I have all my parts sitting in a box in the shop, just gotta get around to starting it!
You did a wonderful job making your furnace, and a tremendous job putting together your video! I really appreciate your step-by-step narration and instructions. It was not too slow, not too fast. I feel like you hit a near perfect video on many levels! Please keep up the great work.
A tip for cutting the flashing or any sheet metal. Lay it down flat and use a straight edge and sharp utility knife and make a couple passes scoring it and then bend it and it will break perfectly. It basically looks like a factory edge. You don't have to cut nearly as deep into it as might think. I've done it with steel and aluminum. You can use a brake to bend and snap if you have one available. I do aluminum flashing on exterior trim which is how I learned this trick. It's amazing how you can make something like this without a bunch of super expensive tools. I thought that drill press was some really high end model until I looked it up and saw that it's very reasonably priced. I have a similar sized one from Harbor Freight but that one looks nicer to me. This looks like a lot of work, but totally worth it with the price of pre made ones.
Thank you for compiling all the information into this video! I built a similar device a few years back, in seeing yours I now have solutions to the things I didn't like about my build. Thank you again! Now I have explore your other videos and subscribe...
Nice! You really had to throw the info at us quickly to cover everything, but it was perfect. Great detail and very clearly filmed, edited and narrated. Well done and thank you.
Great video and build! I'm half way through building mine. One question, the terminal block and PID don't fit the 12 gauge u ends am I missing something?
The terminal blocks fit my 10 AWG wire (raw wire) The U-ends I used on my 12 AWG wire did fit the PID... you many need to find/use some smaller ones if the ones you're using aren't working. Or grind down the ends until they fit.
I figured it out the link in the description takes you straight to 15 Amp terminal blocks (which I bought) that are smaller than the 20-25 Amp blocks you used. Got them order and on the way!
I am seeing a pattern here in the comments:) I am serious when I say all the way from your prep/ and planning work to the explanation/ narration to video. So well done. Kudos.
Excellent idea putting the switch on the door. I electrocuted myself in a high school jewelry class doing just that. Far and away the biggest shock I've ever had.
I just came across your channel and really amazed by your skills and those awesome projects you are making! Very nice! Cheers from Germany from another Beard dude ;-)
6:35 It's important to note that at 1200C the Kanthal A-1 wire has an increased resistance of around 4%, important to factor in the resistance at operating temp rather than just at room temp
Nice detailed description. Just a safety warning regarding the door switch. You mentioned in the beginning that you did this to prevent possible electrocution. But you may never assume that the SSR provides full electrical isolation and you should always use a relay with mechanical contacts to switch both sides of the coil off. For anyone building this: if you buy a PID controller that is different from the one used, make sure it is a controller with an electrical output for SSR use. I originally bought a PID controller with a relay contact and this only allows for slow switching. The SSR plug-in unit I had to buy for that PID controller enables faster switching resulting in a more stable temperature.
One way to save heating element is to stretch the coils to separate, then hop coils until the proper resistance value is achieved based on multimeter ohms, THEN cut the wire. Great build.
This is an exceptionally nice build for a DIY effort, and I could see this being ever so slightly modified for a fully professional outfit. Man, nice job! I also went with an Auber PID though the next stage up that has a USB function so you can program on the PC and save your ramps and cools. Doing it directly through the PID isn't impossible, but having a folder of easily accessible and swappable profiles that you can add more functionality is a nice feature to have for down the road. My oven is a bit of an oddball as it's design is for a very large crucible and a reduced oxygen environment that can heat treat specific materials, graphitize, smelt, etc.
Brilliant! great job with this project. You really did your homework. thanks for all the detail, super complete. When i get ready to move past 1080/84 steel i am going to build one.
Have you noticed any degradation of the ceramic terminal blocks on the back of your kiln? I've notice they seem to get a lot hotter than I would like when I heat treat steels like 10v with high austenizing temperatures, with a decently long hold time. Also for the placement of the limit switch I had good luck placing it so that the button is pushed in more than necessary, that way it doesn't turn off after thermal expansion.
@@RedBeardOps I forgot to add to that, the main reason I asked is they had gotten a bit too hot and there has been some degradation to mine. Although, after really stuffing the back full of kaowool, it does seem to help. I'm not sure how I can stop them from getting hotter than I would like.
@@RedBeardOps so I've got at update on the oven. I've gone ahead and made some modifications to mine. You may have seen them on blade forums. I moved the terminal blocks to a point outside the aluminum flashing, as well as thethermal couple (I moved the thermal couple earlier on, because it was melting the insulation for the wire). I had to make new coils with longer twisted leads. But now that the terminal blocks arent attached to the body of the oven they arent getting heated all. Which is keeping the connection from getting degraded do too oxidation. Something I also did, but somewhat unrelated. Is I coated the inside of the chamber with 100 ht ceramic coating, for kilns and forges. It's supposed to protect the firebrick, and also it's supposed to reflect heat leading to a quicker heat up time (since I'm only using 110v at 15 amps that matters more, though even then it's not too bad). So I put a layer over the entire inside of the oven, also taking the coils out and putting it in the groves where those sit. I havent fully fired it up since I've added this coating. So I'll see what effect if any its had. That's all the changes I've made that I can think of since i initially completed this. I think the only other thing I really want to do, is buy an even longer thermal couple to get closer to the area my blade will be sitting, and also do so research and see if accuracy is possibly effected by using cheaper thermocouples like the one I have now.
You could widen the element track for better exposure and lower coil temp, but leave a 0.5" section every couple of inches intact to continue capturing the coil.
Just finished 'coiling' my heating wire, and using your wood block technique (with the tip to maintain slight pressure) it went perfectly. Brilliant! You saved me from hours of winding by hand and likely unsatisfying, mediocre result.
Dude! You crushed it man! Thank you so much! Parts, diagrams, everything! Thank you so much! Please do a follow up in a few months. Would love to hear how it holds up!
Thanks man! Glad you liked it. It's pretty much going to be used in every knife video I do on this channel (except for the next one since I had already made the knife without the oven). You should be able to get a good idea of how it's doing and I'll make sure to talk about it! Cheers sir!
Excellent video and commentary. It has me motivated to construct one myself. I noticed that you appear to be utilizing some sort of breathing apparatus while shaping the ceramic blocks. Please share what it is.
lmao 🤣 “ if any of that was confusing make sure to print out the diagram “ ahhhhhhh bro it sounds like your speaking a different language… I gotta give it to you though to have the smarts and talent to do this is pretty incredible! Great video brother! 🤙
Beautiful build this is on my todo list I just need a welder haha. I made a PID control box for my toaster oven and can keep it a few tenths of a degree consistently. Rebuilding a pottery kiln this winter and than this oven is next on my list or a greenhouse LOL. I will use much of your design and thanks so much for sharing and doing such a fine job documenting your build.
Holy moly man the way you cut in those heating element slots was genius
Thanks man! Glad you enjoyed that. Seems like a good solution for sure.
Can't say I've ever seen someone chuck up a router bit in a drill press... Until now!
Man I'm... amped! I don't think I'll be able to... resist... the temptation to build one of these ovens!
LOL! I'm charged up for you man... Good luck with your build; I'll be shocked... if you aren't successful. Thanks for... relaying... me your feedback on this video!
@@RedBeardOps Sorry to be cheesy... but I'm just over here... wired... on some coffee. I think I have the... capacity... to tackle this project, but we will see! :)
That is one of the best detailed and explained videos on oven building around. You did a GREAT job of designing the oven, AND documenting the build. Thanks for taking the time for all that video editing work.
Wow, thank you sir! Glad you enjoyed it for sure. Have a great weekend!
Ditto
Looking really good! I appreciate how much time you spent documenting and editing. Great reference.
Glad you enjoyed it! Man your blog was so damn helpful! Thanks man. Have a great weekend. 🙌
Videos like this is the reason why I watch RUclips. Excellent work
Thank you Dan!
Thank you for sharing this! This walkthrough was super helpful and the equipment list is such a great resource. I created a parallel build and found that making the channels in the fire brick with tight tolerance for my coil diameter caused my bricks to crack when the Kanthal expanded. Maybe a lesson learned that could help other viewers.
Great video! Coming from a pottery background, if you need to help keep the elements in their grooves, you can take old/extra element wire and bend it into a J shape. Then just push them into the soft brick where needed.
Oh man. I tripped over this exactly when needed. I'm gonna watch this a few times.
Nice! Good luck and stay safe with your build!
@@RedBeardOps A few times through and, as much as I love the video I think I'm gonna tap out on this one and save up to buy one. Mechanical and structural stuff is one thing. But screwing with electricity at that level is a bit beyond my ken.
In the immortal words of Dirty Harry: "A man's got to know his limitations." o7
@@madwilliamflint Man, I totally get it!
Great job. I'm an electrician and very impressed with your explanation. You can add a cooling fan to box to keep components cooler. I have been wanting to make one and I love your design.
Thank you greatly sir! I'm glad I hit enough points to make an electrician like this one! I most certainly am not one.
Your build videos are second to none. Truly. Thank you. If you come to my shop you will find your press and your oven. To build these projects was inspiring. To document and freely share hit the high mark. Thanks again!
Awesome! Glad they were helpful! Cheers
36:46. I saw this assembly and literally said out loud "Holy shit! He made that?!?!?" Looks great!
Lol, cheers sir! Glad you enjoyed the build
Best overview of the DIY oven build I’ve seen yet ! And bonus, it’s a great design too !! 👍🏻👍🏻
Glad you like it!
Great video!! I’ve probably watched it 20 times. I’m a new knife maker and I built this oven with a few changes but it has been a game changer. Thanks
Heck yeah man! Awesome to hear it helped
What details did you change in your build, & why?
@@schechter01
I’m running off a 30 amp breaker so I increased the power.
Damn nice of you to provide instructions and component list FOC. Some folks want to charge for that. Always a pleasure to watch you work.
Thanks William! Glad you enjoyed this one. I felt like there was a gap on the oven tutorials out there and I looked to fill that gap! Cheers
@@RedBeardOps Can you provide the electrical schematic for free too, or is it just for your Patreons?
@@bobvines00 The link to the wiring diagram in the description is free. Here it is - www.patreon.com/posts/50559429
@@RedBeardOps Thanks! I didn't realize that the stuff on Patreon could be made free like this. Thank you very much!
Nice build - really excellent result, and very good and detailed description. Just a note for any one building one. There is no point in using two SSRs - one for each end of the coil, when you are on a single phase. The current you run through one is the same current you run through the other. You just get double the voltage drop over the SSRs (which is probably insignificant in this case), but main point is no benefit and twice the cost and hassle of wiring. And as noted by others, no reason to fuse the PID with a big fuse separately. The manufactorers pdf manual for the controller has a wiring suggestion for a heater build that should be followed - it uses the correct wiring with regards to fusing and using one SSR.
Yeah, a wonderful project:) And you are absolutely correct with your analysis: The wiring is SERIAL, one net-loop, so no need for two silicon state relays.
Just some engineering background (and advice, nobody asked for **g** ): Red Beard says something like "... a fuse to protect the PID [regulator] ...". That fuse should then be dimensioned to the max input current of the device, denoted by the datasheet. For the protection of normal devices 1.1 to 1.2 x nominal current / slow blowing fuse. Or to protect semiconductor devices (like SSRs) with 1.2 to 1.5 nominal current but with fast blowing or semiconductor rated fuse(Ballpark numbers, if present use the values specified by the manufacturer = RTFM:) ). But for such a small and relatively simple (in contrast to a complex) device? After all, also those fuses are ADDITIONAL to the ones he already wired in, which (the background part: ) are fuses to protect the WIRING! Like in your house-installation. They serve the purpose that in the event of a short circuit (heating element or regulator or the wiring itself or some dumb human juggling a screwdriver ...), the entire wiring does not turn into a fire hazard/heating element itself. The fuses must therefore be designed according to the conductor cross-section and thus the rated current. If the/a secondary fuse is dimensioned as a device protection fuse, then the correct value for the special device must also be selected. Anything in between, or "by feel" doesn't make any sense at all:) Just my (and by the basics of electrical design) 2 Amps ... I meant cents.
About Cable Glands: I found it wonderful, that he works with cable glands. That is professional. But ... cable glands are for ONE cable, each[1]. The great thing about them is the screwable and totally sealing strain relief. If you use two cables or even three .... then you can omit those things. And please don't say anyone DUCT TAPE. We have enough plonkers here, who shoot themselves in the foot, regularly on RUclips:)
[1] That solves also the mystery, why they come in different sizes ... :P
About Thermoelements: Whats positive and what is negative? No needs to speculate. Red Beard has mentioned his "high quality super duper multimeter". USE IT! Use a heat gun and measure the output voltage of the element. Then you KNOW!:) (Also good advice for dogs and color blind people, hehe)
🙌
Excellent tutorial! In the process of wrapping mine up. I have the first heat cycle going now. Just have to add a back panel and paint. You made it super easy to build. I appreciate it!
Heck yeah, cheers sir! Glad it helped.
Absolutely superb video! I used it as a guide when I made my own control box and I just test ran it. Everything worked perfectly!
Thank you very much for having made this video.
Glad it helped!
Thank you for making this video that lets hobby makers do very special thermal cycles.
Glad it was helpful!
I'm a jewelry artist and it one point I was thinking of making my knives from scratch and than engraving them. After watching this video I think I will just buy blank knife blades from folks who have put in so much time and equipment into their work. There is only so much time and space we have to do the things we love. Your video has only made me more aware of the craftsmanship and skill that goes into knife making. Thank you.
Thanks Shaun! And good luck with your engraving!
Amazingly descriptive! I learned a ton and hope to be making my own shortly copying a lot of your design! Thanks, Linus
Glad it was helpful!
Awesome tutorial brother! Exactly what I was hoping for. I will put my Red Beard oven right next to my Red Beard etcher. Thanks for all you do!
Heck yeah, thanks man! Have a great weekend!
Awesome! The parts list with Amazon references is particularly helpful for all the little bushings connectors, etc. Thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
I’m just getting started after having build my first forge a few years ago and selling it. Now building a new forge, next will probably be a belt grinder and for sure this will be one over build that I’ll take inspiration from. Great job.
Nice! Good luck!
Incredibly thorough and well-done. Thank you!
Glad you enjoyed it!
The video was nicely done and easy to follow.
Thank you greatly!
Another detailed and well thought out video James. You’re awesome. I appreciate you putting the cost list in there at the end. 👊🏻🇺🇸
Glad it was helpful!
Freaking sweet build... Can tell a ton of research went into it, thanks for documenting it all for us!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Really great built video! Thank you for putting this up. I'm going to build an oven for aluminum casting and this will be a great help. Love the idea of using a benchtop drill press as an overhead router for the bricks - that's genius actually. If you used a regular router or router table all that silicon dioxide dust would probably completely destroy the router. But with the drill press, the motor and bearings are mostly out of the way. Such a good idea!
Came out of necessity! lol; Cheers Tom
this is awesome, my only problem. couldn't you have released this a month ago before I started building my propane oven lol. This will be my next oven build for sure, thanks for such a comprehensive tutorial.
Lol, sorry sir! Good luck on your build!
Nice video and well done. By far from the videos I have watched this seems to be the most details. Thank you for that, wish you the best in your future endeavors.
Glad it was helpful!
Finally a decent video, simple and proffesional, even an amateur like me can feel confident to give it a go,, thanks for tutorial,
Glad it was helpful! Cheers lu!
Really nice build on that oven. I just finished building mine about 2 weeks ago and although not as aesthetically finished as yours it does the job. I built mine with inside dimensions of width 6" x height 5.5" x depth 22.5". Wanted to be able to heat treat the camp choppers I make. Was able to do it for just under $500. Most expensive parts were the bricks and the angle iron since I didn't have any angle on hand. I used an Inkbird PID which seems to work quite well. I am having issues with the crappy hinge I used for the door so will have to go with something like you used. Looks a lot more sturdy. Again great build.
Awesome man! These things are fun to build for sure. Thanks for your comment!
Nice build.
Thank you for going through the mistakes you made and how you corrected them as well. Thats a big help to all of us attempting tbe same project.
Glad it was helpful!
Quickly becoming my favorite build channel, nice work !
Awesome, thank you!
Great video and narrative. Very well done.
Thanks for sharing.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Excelente video!! no te guardas nada, lo das todo, Gracias!
Best oven build around. Thanks for sharing.
Glad you like it!
Awesome tutorial, I´ve already made my own oven, but for me the main problem was the fire bricks. I can only find here in Brazil refratary bricks that were solids as a rock and to cut them were very difficult. I used only one SSR and after 10 min it melts, so I used a air cooler.
Your oven it´s great, on of the best diy on YT!!!
Heck yeah man! Thanks for your comment! Glad you enjoyed this one.
From a industrial furnace engineer - well made.
Thank you Nolan!
Great job! I was all ready to run out to the shop and bust one of these out then you started wiring up the box......
Lol, it's a little involved for sure! Cheers man
I completed most of the wiring today, just have to make and connect the elements, and detail the power supply. Fun build, man! Thanks for making it easy!
Nice work! Good luck!
Superb build& impressive video plus details guide for guys like me, beginners with small budgets and big technical resources congratulation again ! Cheers from Argentina
Glad you enjoyed it! Thank you! Cheers from Texas!
35:36 hey man I built this kiln and it works flawlessly except I added a second thermo coupler and I have a 300 degree difference between the one on the lid and the additional. What would you recommend doing about it. The second one is not a cheap thermo coupler.
That's interesting that you're getting different readings. I'd suggest making sure they're calibrated with a bucket of ice water or something along those lines
BRAVO!!! Eseguiro' il TUO progetto. Ti stimo molto! Saluti da Venezia (IT)
Vi ringrazio molto! Buona settimana!
you did 1 hell of ajob on that oven it came out fantastic glad you finally did this video i wish it was here a few months back but im happy with my oven i built
Thankyou sir! It was a fun project for sure. Congrats on your oven!
Awesome build mate! Very inspirational for an aspiring knife maker. Super informative and really well paced video. Thank you very much. Greatly appreciated.
Glad you liked it!
This is a really awesome tutorial/video appreciate all of the hard work that went into this. THe knife making making community has some really great content and yor stuff is on the top of that. THANKS!
Glad you liked it Matt! Cheers
Awesome work. Well done!
Thank you! Cheers!
New to the channel. I've watch a couple of your files and I'm really enjoying them. I think you're on to something with your content.
Welcome aboard! And thank you! I'm glad you're liking them.
Very well done!! Congratulations! Thanks for sharing such detailed info! Cheers.
Glad it was helpful!
Wow, very cool. That oven makes me want to get into the knife making business just so I have a reason to make one.
Heck yeah man! It was a fun build for sure!
I've been doing automotive and industrial wiring for nearly 20 years now. When in doubt on wire size, always go bigger. It leaves room later to expand the part/machine and it guarantees smooth operation.
Thanks for the tip sir!
Hope yall liked this one! As a reminder the links to the wiring diagram and components are in the description. Cheers! 🙌 -- If yall found this helpful and want to support the channel, the amazon links in the description are affiliate links and here is the RBO patron - www.patreon.com/RedBeardOps
I loved this one. I am getting ready to build mine!
@@capncurby671 Heck yeah Capn Curby!
Great video and great timing, I pretty much did the same thing as you looking at all those different resources and combining them into the design I want, I have all my parts sitting in a box in the shop, just gotta get around to starting it!
@@ughmas Heck yeah! Good luck with your build!
You did a wonderful job making your furnace, and a tremendous job putting together your video!
I really appreciate your step-by-step narration and instructions. It was not too slow, not too fast. I feel like you hit a near perfect video on many levels!
Please keep up the great work.
Excellent!! And very timely. More comments later!! Have a great day!!!
Thanks David!
Great project and really detailed voice over. Thanks for sharing. 👍👍
Glad you liked it!
A tip for cutting the flashing or any sheet metal. Lay it down flat and use a straight edge and sharp utility knife and make a couple passes scoring it and then bend it and it will break perfectly. It basically looks like a factory edge. You don't have to cut nearly as deep into it as might think. I've done it with steel and aluminum. You can use a brake to bend and snap if you have one available. I do aluminum flashing on exterior trim which is how I learned this trick.
It's amazing how you can make something like this without a bunch of super expensive tools. I thought that drill press was some really high end model until I looked it up and saw that it's very reasonably priced. I have a similar sized one from Harbor Freight but that one looks nicer to me. This looks like a lot of work, but totally worth it with the price of pre made ones.
Thanks for the tip! Cheers
Excellent Job on both the build and the completeness of the DIY video!!!!
Thank you! Cheers!
Thank you for compiling all the information into this video! I built a similar device a few years back, in seeing yours I now have solutions to the things I didn't like about my build. Thank you again! Now I have explore your other videos and subscribe...
Glad it was helpful! Cheers!
Concise, well edited, and just well, awesome!
Glad you liked it!
Nice! You really had to throw the info at us quickly to cover everything, but it was perfect. Great detail and very clearly filmed, edited and narrated. Well done and thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
Great video! Very detailed, straight forward and well explained! Thank you for taking the time to make the video and share with us! Cheers!
Heck yeah man! Glad you liked it! Cheers
Great build video. Made an excellent working oven as good or better than one could buy.
Glad you liked it Glen!
Thank you for sharing this very informative tutorial videos yes I salute you idol the way of explanation done
Glad it was helpful!
Great build and excellent commentary. I hope your rewards are many. Stay safe. Rex from DownUnder in Melbourne Australia
Thank you kindly! Glad you liked it man. Cheers from Texas!
I didn't understand some things but I liked watching. Nice job bro
Glad you enjoyed it Ryan!
Great video and build! I'm half way through building mine. One question, the terminal block and PID don't fit the 12 gauge u ends am I missing something?
The terminal blocks fit my 10 AWG wire (raw wire)
The U-ends I used on my 12 AWG wire did fit the PID... you many need to find/use some smaller ones if the ones you're using aren't working. Or grind down the ends until they fit.
Word, thanks so much for the great video. Keep it up!
I figured it out the link in the description takes you straight to 15 Amp terminal blocks (which I bought) that are smaller than the 20-25 Amp blocks you used. Got them order and on the way!
@@jacksonrobinson4424 That's interesting... what country are you in? Mine goes to 30A blocks - Ceramic Terminal Blocks - amzn.to/3sXa8eu
I'm in TN, I'm talking the terminal blocks inside the case.
That's a really slick build and nicely put together video explaining it.
Thank you!
I am seeing a pattern here in the comments:) I am serious when I say all the way from your prep/ and planning work to the explanation/ narration to video. So well done. Kudos.
Thanks hommie! Glad to have you on-board
Excellent idea putting the switch on the door. I electrocuted myself in a high school jewelry class doing just that. Far and away the biggest shock I've ever had.
OUCH!
I just came across your channel and really amazed by your skills and those awesome projects you are making! Very nice! Cheers from Germany from another Beard dude ;-)
Thank you very much! Glad you're enjoying them. Cheers from Texas!
Compared to most furnace build videos, your design and construction is relatively better.
Thank you!
Nice video man, very well explaind
Glad you liked it!
6:35 It's important to note that at 1200C the Kanthal A-1 wire has an increased resistance of around 4%, important to factor in the resistance at operating temp rather than just at room temp
Thanks for the info
Wow well done tutorial and very nice. Enjoy it.
Thank you! Cheers!
Nice detailed description.
Just a safety warning regarding the door switch. You mentioned in the beginning that you did this to prevent possible electrocution. But you may never assume that the SSR provides full electrical isolation and you should always use a relay with mechanical contacts to switch both sides of the coil off.
For anyone building this: if you buy a PID controller that is different from the one used, make sure it is a controller with an electrical output for SSR use. I originally bought a PID controller with a relay contact and this only allows for slow switching. The SSR plug-in unit I had to buy for that PID controller enables faster switching resulting in a more stable temperature.
Thanks for the tips sir
One way to save heating element is to stretch the coils to separate, then hop coils until the proper resistance value is achieved based on multimeter ohms, THEN cut the wire. Great build.
Thanks for the tip
Great job! Very detailed! I know I’ll never do something like this but it is a good idea LoL.
Again, great job!
Brilliant... great build, Your presentation style and instructions makes the process easy to follow. Subbed here!
Thanks for the sub! I'm happy you enjoyed the video!
Que video tan genial, eres un crack amigo. Admiro tu trabajo y sobre todo que lo compartas.
Saludos desde Ecatepec, México 🇲🇽
¡Muchas gracias! ¡Ten un excelente fin de semana!
This is an exceptionally nice build for a DIY effort, and I could see this being ever so slightly modified for a fully professional outfit. Man, nice job!
I also went with an Auber PID though the next stage up that has a USB function so you can program on the PC and save your ramps and cools. Doing it directly through the PID isn't impossible, but having a folder of easily accessible and swappable profiles that you can add more functionality is a nice feature to have for down the road. My oven is a bit of an oddball as it's design is for a very large crucible and a reduced oxygen environment that can heat treat specific materials, graphitize, smelt, etc.
USB port would be awesome! That's a great idea for an upgraded model.
Man, what a awesome video. Easy to understand and your build is perfectly clean. Congrats and thanks a lot!
Glad you liked it! Thank you!
I am jealous- yet happy that you did this!
Thanks Nick! I'm excided to use it!
Thanks so much for this vid! I was planning on making a kiln and the detailed video will help so much!
Glad it was helpful!
@@RedBeardOps I binged several of your videos and the details in them are amazing dude! I subscribed to keep seeing the great content!
Great video mate, you have clearly put a lot of effort into your project and into conveying useful information to viewers. Thanks very much for that!
Glad it was helpful! Cheers!
Great video. I will definitely be watching it again when I build my oven. Also thanks for all the resource links.
Glad it was helpful! Cheers!
Brilliant! great job with this project. You really did your homework. thanks for all the detail, super complete. When i get ready to move past 1080/84 steel i am going to build one.
Glad you liked it John! It was a pleasure to build for sure... I think I like building knife making tools almost as much as making knives!
Have you noticed any degradation of the ceramic terminal blocks on the back of your kiln? I've notice they seem to get a lot hotter than I would like when I heat treat steels like 10v with high austenizing temperatures, with a decently long hold time.
Also for the placement of the limit switch I had good luck placing it so that the button is pushed in more than necessary, that way it doesn't turn off after thermal expansion.
Good point on the switch. I haven't investigated the blocks
@@RedBeardOps I forgot to add to that, the main reason I asked is they had gotten a bit too hot and there has been some degradation to mine. Although, after really stuffing the back full of kaowool, it does seem to help. I'm not sure how I can stop them from getting hotter than I would like.
@@RedBeardOps so I've got at update on the oven. I've gone ahead and made some modifications to mine. You may have seen them on blade forums.
I moved the terminal blocks to a point outside the aluminum flashing, as well as thethermal couple (I moved the thermal couple earlier on, because it was melting the insulation for the wire). I had to make new coils with longer twisted leads. But now that the terminal blocks arent attached to the body of the oven they arent getting heated all. Which is keeping the connection from getting degraded do too oxidation.
Something I also did, but somewhat unrelated. Is I coated the inside of the chamber with 100 ht ceramic coating, for kilns and forges. It's supposed to protect the firebrick, and also it's supposed to reflect heat leading to a quicker heat up time (since I'm only using 110v at 15 amps that matters more, though even then it's not too bad). So I put a layer over the entire inside of the oven, also taking the coils out and putting it in the groves where those sit.
I havent fully fired it up since I've added this coating. So I'll see what effect if any its had.
That's all the changes I've made that I can think of since i initially completed this. I think the only other thing I really want to do, is buy an even longer thermal couple to get closer to the area my blade will be sitting, and also do so research and see if accuracy is possibly effected by using cheaper thermocouples like the one I have now.
@@_BLANK_BLANK Nice work! Thanks for the notes
looks pretty good and very good description ;)
Glad you think so!
Excellent work! Thank you very much!
Perfect timing for me too, merci beaucoup mon ami ! Hi from Belgium.
Heck yeah! Good luck with your build! Cheers from Texas!
You could widen the element track for better exposure and lower coil temp, but leave a 0.5" section every couple of inches intact to continue capturing the coil.
Agreed!
Just finished 'coiling' my heating wire, and using your wood block technique (with the tip to maintain slight pressure) it went perfectly. Brilliant! You saved me from hours of winding by hand and likely unsatisfying, mediocre result.
Nice work! Good luck with your build Joel!
Very clean build. Good job!
Thank you! Cheers!
I was completely riveted (get it? Riveted! 🤣) with this build!
Seriously, James, that was frickin’ awesome, mate! Well done 👍🏻 you! 😎
LOL! Glad you enjoyed it sir! Have a great weekend as always!
@@RedBeardOps
You too, buddy 🙏🏻
I would give this 1000 likes if I could. By a mile the best build video for HT ovens that I have seen.
Thank you greatly Chris! Means a lot!
Very nice content sir! I am looking forward to see your "DIY Hydraulic Forge Press" video :)
Thanks Faruk! I made one of those back in my teenage years! May need to get it back going from the dead.
Dude! You crushed it man! Thank you so much! Parts, diagrams, everything! Thank you so much! Please do a follow up in a few months. Would love to hear how it holds up!
Thanks man! Glad you liked it. It's pretty much going to be used in every knife video I do on this channel (except for the next one since I had already made the knife without the oven). You should be able to get a good idea of how it's doing and I'll make sure to talk about it! Cheers sir!
Excellent video and commentary. It has me motivated to construct one myself. I noticed that you appear to be utilizing some sort of breathing apparatus while shaping the ceramic blocks. Please share what it is.
Thanks Richard! Glad you liked it! This respirator goes in and out of stock with COVID - Resp-O-Rator - amzn.to/2M6PMN7
Thank you for the quick response to my inquiry. I'll be looking for one for my shop. Thanks again for the exceptional video.
lmao 🤣 “ if any of that was confusing make sure to print out the diagram “ ahhhhhhh bro it sounds like your speaking a different language… I gotta give it to you though to have the smarts and talent to do this is pretty incredible! Great video brother! 🤙
Hahaha, thanks for the comment sir! Cheers!
Beautiful build this is on my todo list I just need a welder haha. I made a PID control box for my toaster oven and can keep it a few tenths of a degree consistently. Rebuilding a pottery kiln this winter and than this oven is next on my list or a greenhouse LOL. I will use much of your design and thanks so much for sharing and doing such a fine job documenting your build.
Very cool! Good luck with your build taz!