Thanks for the video! How do you remove the rectifier connection lead? There is a tab to the side that I press in but it does not seem to make a difference.
Actually managed to disconnect both rectifier connections. With a stubby screw driver I could get enough leverage to remove the grey one. The black one came out more easily.
What I have often been able to do is get any tool at all either on the other side of the bolt/screw to push against it while I turn the head, or slip a very thin flat head underneath the head and pull up while turning the head. The goal is essentially to apply pressure outward while turning the screw. The rubber is too worn for the threads to do their job on their own. But, with a little help, the screw will come out by turning and pushing/pulling. Hope that helps.
@@AndyboyTabulado See if you can get anything under or behind the whole thing enough to lift it any amount, and then try gripping with vice grips or needle nose vice grips. Alternately, use a small cut-off wheel on a dremel, and score it just enough to slot a flat head in it to hold it still while turning the screw. Anything you can do to hold that thing in place without damaging the fairing. Also, you can just take a drill bit that is about the diameter of the screw, and slowly drill through the screw. Use a very sharp bit without much pressure. You don't want to accidentally push so hard that when you break through you damage something on the other side.
@@dougmoore6612 we change the alternator and stator already still the battery won’t charge it starts but it won’t chacge what should I look after this one
Btw just used these videos to assist with removing my fairings to prep for race fiberglass. Thanks!
Thanks for the video! How do you remove the rectifier connection lead? There is a tab to the side that I press in but it does not seem to make a difference.
Actually managed to disconnect both rectifier connections. With a stubby screw driver I could get enough leverage to remove the grey one. The black one came out more easily.
I went with a Puig screen. $90 and it makes all the difference on the highway, and also racing if you do yhat
yo where do you get those pop rivets the ones that pop out rather than in? I can't find them anywhere
Doug what are those rivets called? at 7:01
it looked different than the other rivets
Hi where did you get your crash bobbins from and will the fit my zx6r rbf
Great vid. I just wanted to do my own coolant change, now i realise i have to disassemble my whole bike :(
Change spark plugs in a 2002 máxima you have to remove the intake manifold. And valve cover. Etc…. Engineers hate mechanics. Clearly
Where do you buy the pop/quick rivets from? I can't find anywhere that sells kawasaki OEM quick rivets.
DPWLHR oh! I don't use OEM rivets. Generic works just fine. Since they're semi-disposable and cheap, i just replace 'em as needed with store brand.
So Amazon works. Cycle Gear, etc.
Will this be the same setup for a 2012?
Thanks man, Great video.
Awesome video man
Thank you!
It’s the same as 2011 right?
The point of unhooking the negative side first is so you dont ark your tool on the negatively charged frame 👍
You are absolutely correct. I like to view arcing my tools across my frame/positive battery post as a Darwinian lesson. LOL!
What do you do if the rubber has been worn and you can’t pop the screw out?????
What I have often been able to do is get any tool at all either on the other side of the bolt/screw to push against it while I turn the head, or slip a very thin flat head underneath the head and pull up while turning the head. The goal is essentially to apply pressure outward while turning the screw. The rubber is too worn for the threads to do their job on their own. But, with a little help, the screw will come out by turning and pushing/pulling. Hope that helps.
@@dougmoore6612 the metal circulator lock under the rubber also turns how do I get that to stop turning too can’t seem to grip it with anything
@@AndyboyTabulado See if you can get anything under or behind the whole thing enough to lift it any amount, and then try gripping with vice grips or needle nose vice grips. Alternately, use a small cut-off wheel on a dremel, and score it just enough to slot a flat head in it to hold it still while turning the screw. Anything you can do to hold that thing in place without damaging the fairing. Also, you can just take a drill bit that is about the diameter of the screw, and slowly drill through the screw. Use a very sharp bit without much pressure. You don't want to accidentally push so hard that when you break through you damage something on the other side.
@@dougmoore6612 we change the alternator and stator already still the battery won’t charge it starts but it won’t chacge what should I look after this one
Thank you Doug, you're the man!
Thank you! I was just trying to figure out those rivets! Btw this video was so Freaking useful buddy
Very useful video thanks a lot for it!
Love the beach towel! I always CRINGE when people throw their plastics on the floor :/
www.kawiforums.com/2009-2012-zx-6r/145648-09-10-zx-6r-fairing-removal-tutorial.html#/topics/145648?_k=ldh183
Replace the stupid windscreen with a more badass windscreen and nm this video is really old....
Yeah, that was on the list… but unfortunately that bike is no longer in our lives. Hopefully, her new owner is having fun with her still!