Gyroscope Build With Through Shaft, Ceramic Bearings Using A Cordless Rotary Tool To Power It

Поделиться
HTML-код
  • Опубликовано: 25 дек 2023
  • My son is a physics major and wanted a Gyroscope for Christmas. I merged a couple of designs from ‪@Clickspring‬ to create a bench top style Gyroscope that he could easily power up to speed with a cordless rotary tool. This required a shaft that extended beyond the outer ring to apply power and meant using ceramic roller ball bearings instead of the cone style bearings traditionally used in toy gyroscopes.
    I know this video is extra long. My son is ready to learn to do some machining and wants to try making one of these himself. I wanted to give him a complete set of dimensioned drawings as well as a step by step video to complete the project. At the same time, I wanted to ensure everyone could see some machining take place and watch this full build come together. I hope this will help anyone who wants to make a gyroscope and provide enough detail that you can tackle the project.
    It took me a couple of tries to find roller bearings that could handle the speed for this build. I finally found them at Boca bearing. Link to the bearings I used here - www.bocabearings.com/products...
    I did a full design of this gyroscope in Fusion 360 and you can access all of the dimensioned drawings for this gyroscope build on a Hobby-Machinist post here - www.hobby-machinist.com/threa...
    Links to key points in video:
    Fusion 360 Design - 1:13
    Material Review - 6:13
    Outer Ring Build - 8:06
    Starting Nub For Rotary Tool - 18:25
    Spacers - 28:24
    Lock Nuts - 32:32
    Bearing Cups - 39:31
    Test Assemble Without Flywheel - 53:04
    Shaft/Axle - 53:55
    Top Cap -57:35
    Balance Stud - 1:02:47
    Pointed Stand (no drawing) - 1:12:04
    Brass Base - 1:16:38
    Flywheel - 1:20:22
    First Run (Fail) - 1:52:03
    Bearing Cup Modification (cut relief) - 1:57:00
    New Bearings & Success - 2:01:31
    Built on a Precision Matthews PM 1440TL Metal Lathe.
    Mill work done with a Jet JMD 18PFN Mill Drill
    Glacern Machine Tools Vise
    Thank you for watching!
    BladesIIB
  • ХоббиХобби

Комментарии • 14

  • @wags9777
    @wags9777 7 месяцев назад +2

    The flywheel should have had a matching radius as the outside cage.

    • @BladesIIB
      @BladesIIB  7 месяцев назад

      @ wags9777 - Yes that would have looked great for sure. I don’t have a radius tool to be able to cut that 3/4” wide radius and trust it would look nice. With the price of brass I did not want to risk messing that up. Maybe next time. Thanks for the comments.

  • @calebburnett
    @calebburnett 7 месяцев назад +1

    I have always wanted to build one of these!

    • @BladesIIB
      @BladesIIB  7 месяцев назад +1

      @calebburnett - There is a link to the dimensioned drawings in the description. I hope this gives you what you need to finally make one. Good luck!

  • @tdg911
    @tdg911 7 месяцев назад +1

    Really cool project. No skimping on the craftsmanship. Nice job.

    • @BladesIIB
      @BladesIIB  7 месяцев назад

      @tdg911 - Thanks! It was a really fun project for sure. Hope you had a great Christmas, thanks for the comment.

  • @wags9777
    @wags9777 7 месяцев назад +1

    The grinding noise is a symptom

  • @lisag2771
    @lisag2771 6 месяцев назад +1

    Enjoyed watching your great work. Do you think it’s possible to make one with a 3 jaw chuck and get the precision required?

    • @BladesIIB
      @BladesIIB  6 месяцев назад +1

      @lisag2771 - Thanks for the feedback and the question. I believe you could make this in a 3 jaw yes. The flywheel and the bearing cup are the only two parts I turned around where any runout in your 3 jaw could cause issues. To minimize on the flywheel, you could just turn the outside after you turn then for sure you would have the center hole, outside, and one complete side all concentric. Having the outside of the boss and the cut out a little off should not have a huge impact on balance. For the bearing cups, since you are machining the bearing recess and the center hole concentric, I think the thread may have enough play to make up for runout on your 3 jaw. You could also use a cone bearing on the bottom side and only use the ball bearing on the top to allow the shaft to extend out the top for the starter? Bottom line, will depend on how far your three jaw runs out when you turn parts around. you could also mount the flywheel on a mandrel and machine both sides at one time? Good luck.

    • @lisag2771
      @lisag2771 6 месяцев назад +1

      @@BladesIIB Thanks, that makes sense. Keep sharing great videos.

  • @wags9777
    @wags9777 7 месяцев назад +1

    You have to go through inserts pretty fast

    • @BladesIIB
      @BladesIIB  7 месяцев назад

      @wags9777 - Not really. I used the same parting and threading insert the whole project and I think I turned the other 2 inserts 1 time.

  • @wags9777
    @wags9777 7 месяцев назад +1

    I feel like your lathe only has one speed

    • @BladesIIB
      @BladesIIB  7 месяцев назад

      @wags9777 - For this material and even the stainless at small diameter I could run max speed on my lathe for most of it. I chose to slow it down one speed. So yes, other than the threading and parting, I did use the same speed for most of this project. If I had a little CNC lathe. I would have been turning faster for a lot of it.