Machining For Dummies - 410 Stainless; Manual Lathe, CNC Mill, Lots Of Operations
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- Опубликовано: 16 авг 2023
- Facing, Turning, Parting, Drilling and Power Tapping 410 Stainless Steel on a Manual Precision Matthews Lathe, Drilling and Tapping a Bolt Circle in 410 Stainless on a Tormach CNC Mill.
Lots of different machining operations to complete this seemingly simple project. Ran into several challenges along the way working with this Stainless Steel, and also a couple of issues with my design. Fun project, lots of learning and lots of hiccups along the way.
One of the issues was tapping the drill chuck too deep and making the chuck jaws sticky and the overall chuck non functional. I cut one of the drill chucks apart to see the issue and got to learn the full inner workings of a drill chuck along the way.
Key Points In The Video:
7:36 - Drill and tap chucks
22:05 - Machine 410 Stainless Steel Base Plates
38:15 - Parting 410 Stainless Steel Base Plates
43:25 - More Parting 410 Stainless Base Plates
55:40 - Drilling 410 Stainless Steel Threaded Rod
58:48 - Update on project challenges
1:02:40 - Prep Jig to Drill and Tap Bolt Circle in CNC Mill
1:08:00 - Drill and tap bolt circle in 410 Stainless on CNC Mill
1:20:35 - Make Jig and turn points on Stainless Screws in Lathe
1:31:05 - Cut Drill Chuck Open to see how it works
1:37:17 - Redo the drill and tapping of drill chucks
1:44:22 - Drill Stainless Steel Threaded Rod
Lathe work completed on a Precision Matthews 1440 TL (PM 1440 LT) and CNC work completed on a Tormach 1100MX.
Finally added coolant to my Precision Matthews PM 1440 TL lathe.
Thanks for watching!
www.BladesIIB.com 
Хобби
Do you mainly manufacture knives now or do you still work on machine parts?
@Eggollofdoom - I still do a bit of everything. I have been working on some Bronco mods lately. I have a few Bronco parts I will be manufacturing and will get those videos out soon. Thanks for the question.
are those custom handles on your tool post?
@robotech - Yes they are. Here is the video with the details and on making those a couple years ago, ruclips.net/video/QViAjcexSs8/видео.html
You can see the run-out on every chuck you showed. There is nothing precise about a hand tap.
@wags9777 - As I mentioned in the video opener the precision on some of these parts is not critical. In the case of the drill chucks, they will never go on a drill again and will just be turned my hand, clamped onto a not precise rod in a not precise hole so the runout will never be a factor. If they were going to turn fast then I would have to machine them a different way for sure.
that can not be good for yr lather turning it on and stoping it tapping they are not made for that type of operation ,, you are def killing the life or yr machine ,,, that's why they have tapping machines and also handles on the tap to do it manually ,,,, I just dont get it .. its not that much work to do it by hand
@MrMrbowhunter001 - I appreciate your concern for my lathe and your comment. Power tapping on a lathe may be more common than you think. Yes, there are definitely better tap holders for the lathe than just the tap handle like I am using in this video. Many people just hold taps in the chuck, however, I find they tend to slip in just a chuck. There are also special tap holders you can get that go in the tailstock and hold onto the square of the tap for power tapping see with a spring to help feed the tap. The motor is a 3 Phase so all the starting and stopping is no issue. Also, I believe Knurling puts more side load and strain on the headstock bearings than you could put with a tap held this way and Knurling is a standard machining process.
Your feed is waaay to much per revolution. Look at what the chip is doing and sounds coming from your insert. this was painfull to watch.
@wags9777 - I was actually just hand feeding for that step since it was so narrow, trying to push the depth and feed as hard as I could just to see how fast I could remove that material. Most of the noise is because the chip liked to roll onto the inside of the carbide rather than break and the loose chip string getting wedged against the face is what makes all the noise and what leaves the gummy surface on the face of the part. Noisy yes but again the goal is remove the stock as quickly as possible to get to the finish cut. I did start taking lighter cuts to get the chips to break after a bit. Fun to experiment and push things to see what you can do. The other option would be to face in from the outside to the step but I find it easier to feed over and face out instead. All about trade offs to find out what works best for you and that project.