I had the same problem with the diff, even bought a complete new housing and tried again, but same problem. I ended up using silicone sealant in combination with the paper gasket. So far so good.
@@TeamRC3D that alloy cover didn't help me, didn't even try the plastic one. 3 packs and massive leaking with 10k oil.. Going to try those thicker xray gaskets next.
Ive always used green slime on the outdrive o rings plus before installing the gasket i smear that completely both side with green slime also. Then finally, i tighten down the 4 screws in a cross pattern rather than going round in a circular fashion. As for battery strap, go for something with rubber straps. This helps the chassis to flex correctly and reduce the chance of tweak in a crash. Ive a nice jc one. If you have some spare cash, get the kashima shocks and polished shafts they feel sooooooo smooth!!
@@TeamRC3D Brill, that wasn't a "hurry up btw, but greatly appreciated", can you confirm that the part number 91688 is the correct one for the rear blocks?
The stock differential cover doesn't seal very well. Mine leaked from the start on my B6.3. On my B6.4 I noticed the seal surface wasn't the straightest. I've found them to be warped or can warp easily after tightening them down. I would highly recommend the aluminum diff cover. Associated part number 91781. I usually recommend this one item to all the Associated drivers since it made my car more consistent since it actually kept the fluid in the differential.
For the battery hold down I went with the Exotek (EXO1828) and it's fantastic carbon fiber goodness. Jconcepts servo mount (JCO2948-1) is wonderful if you like a one piece aluminum option. Alternatively, Avid Racing (AVD10110) offers a carbon fiber servo brace.
As far as the differential is concerned I had the same problems with our 6.2 stadium truck My mistake was OVER filling the diff. With the sun gear and the spider gears in fill just 1/2 way Do not cover the spider gears completely
i know this video is a few months old, but have you tried the front wing in the upright position? (refer to ryan harris' TLR 22 5.0 setup video) and have you tried a titanium screw kit?
Great video on the 6.4. I'll try and help with the diff. It doesn't say it in the manual but I think you need to flip the gasket around. It won't make a mess anymore. Should work it's something that should be in the manual. Take care
I've tried the B6.1/6.2 D mount on my B6.4 to achieve zero rear toe angle as you suggest, however the driveshafts bind when the rear suspension is compressed. Did you fit shorter driveshafts too?
@@TeamRC3D Hi, thanks for responding :) I couldn't get the associated B6.1/6.2 D mount, so picked up a Willspeed version instead. I suspect the centres on the WS version are closer than the Asso version, as with the #1 pills fitted like yours, I had toe out. I now have the #0 pills fitted in the WS D mount to achieve zero toe and have fitted 67mm dogbones. My originals were 69mm.
All three of my AE 2wd vehicles have diff leaking problems. Tried a bunch of different things to solve it and none work. Would say it's the only down side of the vehicles
Get the alum diff cover no more leaks, I change to Tworks CF servo top plate..the wing brace is also good to have..😂 for the battery holder it just works even it’s ugly. also you can try the 2 gears diff with alum cross pins with 10-15k diff oil..
Surprised you went with 3 holes in rear. Thats more along dirt setup. The 2holes will move less which is what you want for high grip. Here in the states the 2 hole pistons feel great
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I had the same problem with the diff, even bought a complete new housing and tried again, but same problem.
I ended up using silicone sealant in combination with the paper gasket. So far so good.
Alloy diff cover solved the problem for us
@@TeamRC3D that alloy cover didn't help me, didn't even try the plastic one. 3 packs and massive leaking with 10k oil.. Going to try those thicker xray gaskets next.
Ive always used green slime on the outdrive o rings plus before installing the gasket i smear that completely both side with green slime also. Then finally, i tighten down the 4 screws in a cross pattern rather than going round in a circular fashion. As for battery strap, go for something with rubber straps. This helps the chassis to flex correctly and reduce the chance of tweak in a crash. Ive a nice jc one. If you have some spare cash, get the kashima shocks and polished shafts they feel sooooooo smooth!!
Thanks. Have upgraded to alloy diff case now
Great video, and I've just ordered 2 of those pill containers :) Just checking is the part number for the rear pill block 91688,
Thanks
Megan
Thanks - they are on their way today
@@TeamRC3D Brill, that wasn't a "hurry up btw, but greatly appreciated", can you confirm that the part number 91688 is the correct one for the rear blocks?
@@megandavidson1357 No problem - yes that reduces the toe in by one degree if you need to get to less than 1 degree
@@TeamRC3D Cheers, just checking as there are a few different part numbers.
The stock differential cover doesn't seal very well. Mine leaked from the start on my B6.3. On my B6.4 I noticed the seal surface wasn't the straightest. I've found them to be warped or can warp easily after tightening them down. I would highly recommend the aluminum diff cover. Associated part number 91781. I usually recommend this one item to all the Associated drivers since it made my car more consistent since it actually kept the fluid in the differential.
Just fitted the alloy covers and seem much better. Worthwhile upgrade for sure
For the battery hold down I went with the Exotek (EXO1828) and it's fantastic carbon fiber goodness. Jconcepts servo mount (JCO2948-1) is wonderful if you like a one piece aluminum option. Alternatively, Avid Racing (AVD10110) offers a carbon fiber servo brace.
Many thanks. Will look into them
I agree with the exotec. I got one for my B6.4 and T6.4 and love em. No more looking for the thumb screws
Try the Reefs Rc 299:lp Red edition : racing servo
Thanks will look into it
As far as the differential is concerned I had the same problems with our 6.2 stadium truck
My mistake was OVER filling the diff. With the sun gear and the spider gears in fill just 1/2 way Do not cover the spider gears completely
Fill to cover the cross pins but the plastic cover doesn’t seal very well so we have upgraded to alloy
Awesome video! Keep this up. Also my diff leaks too. No idea why thinking of covering the gasket and screws in green slime
Thanks. Will try the new diff and see how it performs
Ally diff cover will sort the issue. My B6.2 leaked all the time until I swapped to an ally diff cover
I use the yokomo gear diff , got tired the associated leaking all the time , hope that helps
The alloy case seems to have helped
i know this video is a few months old, but have you tried the front wing in the upright position? (refer to ryan harris' TLR 22 5.0 setup video)
and have you tried a titanium screw kit?
No we haven't tried the different wing position. We have fitted a stainless screw set titanium was too expensive
Vision racing makes an amazing carbon battery hold-down using bands…
We have found one and have now fitted it - will be doing a video on what we have found racing this car on carpet
Good video. Savox servos are the way forward.
Are you able to share your setup sheet?
Thanks. There are quite a few online already but if necessary I can
Love the video... fantastic! So what alloy diff case did you go with?
Just the standard associated part
@@TeamRC3D how did you fix the leak?
Great video on the 6.4. I'll try and help with the diff. It doesn't say it in the manual but I think you need to flip the gasket around. It won't make a mess anymore. Should work it's something that should be in the manual. Take care
Also if you want a setup for dirt you only need to change a couple things. I can send one if you'd like?
Cheers we have just fitted the alloy diff case to see if that helps
@@TeamRC3D it should. Good luck with it
Which way up text or no text? This fixed it for you? And it was same gasket not a new one?
Awesome video!! Can you give me part number to the shock pistons and exact hole size to drill
2mm Pistons - we bought from www.tmgspeeduk.com/?fbclid=IwAR3ef_FcKZOjXMHryyYYMe4jizScrRREFBZCfdBExNi-MxK691jnYS1c0lk. 1.7mm rear and 1.6mm front
I notice you are using the End Bell fan mount and not the Laydown mount. Does the End Bell mount keep your motor cooler?
Think in 2wd it’s not essential
Getting back in the game soon. Had the original rc10 when I was a kid. I love to build these cars. What brand and car do you recommend to get? Thanks
We run Associated now - love them have a nice B6.4 for sale if interested
What c block did you use. Just the regular B6.1 one? Do you have a part number by any chance. Its nice thr 6.1 stuff fits the 6.4
The b6.3 block or willspeed do one
I've tried the B6.1/6.2 D mount on my B6.4 to achieve zero rear toe angle as you suggest, however the driveshafts bind when the rear suspension is compressed. Did you fit shorter driveshafts too?
What position are your pills? We have not had problem
@@TeamRC3D Hi, thanks for responding :) I couldn't get the associated B6.1/6.2 D mount, so picked up a Willspeed version instead. I suspect the centres on the WS version are closer than the Asso version, as with the #1 pills fitted like yours, I had toe out.
I now have the #0 pills fitted in the WS D mount to achieve zero toe and have fitted 67mm dogbones. My originals were 69mm.
I see you use the 3 hole pistons In shocks. Is that front and rear ? And do you drill fronts same size as backs
Have found 3 holes work well - usually .1mm smaller on the front
I should have waited you answer my question.
Thanks for watching
💯💯💯💯
I have a B6 to build , just buying parts for it for out doors grass dirt track , 17.5 motor , do i need a small fan for the motor ?
Monitor temperature, not really needed but I always run one just to be on safe side
What oil in shocks you running? Also what size holes in pistons.
Depends on surface and conditions - what are you running on?
Carpet indoor
also for first time fun/ newbie race will the stock shocks be ok ?
Just for a bit of fun will work fine. But would be worth changing oil quite soon as will handle better
Where can u get shock internal washers
Just a normal washer will fit
All three of my AE 2wd vehicles have diff leaking problems. Tried a bunch of different things to solve it and none work. Would say it's the only down side of the vehicles
Alloy diff cover seemed to fix our problem
Use a yokomo diff
They look a bit too complicated for us. Where do you race them
There are tracks all t over the country
It’s already 2023 and pro kits still comes with plastic servo horn..😂
Yep - but if they put alloy horns for all servos teeth then it would bump price!!
@@TeamRC3D 25 is pretty standard now unless you want to use specific brand like sanwa etc
@@HL-OOI True but a lot do use Sanwa
Get the alum diff cover no more leaks, I change to Tworks CF servo top plate..the wing brace is also good to have..😂 for the battery holder it just works even it’s ugly. also you can try the 2 gears diff with alum cross pins with 10-15k diff oil..
Surprised you went with 3 holes in rear. Thats more along dirt setup. The 2holes will move less which is what you want for high grip. Here in the states the 2 hole pistons feel great
3 holes gives us less pack in he shock and better over the small bumps - but two holes are in the pit box and no doubt will come out soon