Indian Thunderstroke Motorcycle Drive Belt Tension and Alignment
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- Опубликовано: 6 сен 2024
- This is a how to video for checking and adjusting the drive belt tension and alignment on a 2014 thru current model year Indian Motorcycle with the Thunderstroke 111/116 engine. Chieftain, Roadmaster, Vintage, Springfield, Chief Vintage and Darkhorse variants. This does not pertain to the Scout models.
great video... I do not have a Indian, but I have a victory steel frame. So, its the same concept. You explained this procedure so anyone that has any type of mechanical know how, can now adjust tension and alignment. Those that dont have that, should just pay someone.
Hey, Thanks a lot for the kind words. Funny, I just performed my end of season inspection and I had to review my own video to do this part of the service. My belt was ~4-5mm too slack after about 4600 miles.
So, a couple of things. The magic marker thing was for video illustrative purposes. Basically they factory just wants you to perform the measurement at the tightest point of the belt. So just a ruler to measure that at each 90 degree rotation of the tire to find the point of least deflection. That is where you check the measurement. If it's out of spec. at that point... adjustment should be done.
I have found it's basically impossible to gain a perfect alignment where several 360 degree rotations shows the belt equidistant from the sides of the driven pulley on the rear wheel. You can drive yourself nuts if you like, but good luck. I tried. I can get it close but there is some built in mechanical wandering in the relation of the drive and driven pulleys over say 3 rotations of the rear wheel. In my humble opinion, it is sufficient to get close as possible as long as the outer edges of the belt are riding within the sides of the driven pulley without riding up which would be extreme dis-alignment. Just get it comfortably tracking within the confines of the pulley within the manufacturer tension specification I state on the video.
I too one one of those future collectable bikes. I have a customized hot rodded Vegas. A 2013 in jet gloss black. My naked cruiser. I get an amazing about of complements on that bike. I only take it out for joy rides on sunny warm summer days. As with my Indian, I have most all the stock parts in storage. Safe rides!
Love this video. Thank you for taking the time to show step by step how to work on our bikes!
Love those Indians! They just get better and better!
Yep, they sure do.
Awesome tutorial to help me figure out the belt squeal I have while hundreds of miles from any dealer(and only have Sundays off).
FYI the '17 models had the Turkish horn under the cover(I have the longer BuffaloBrand on my '17 Springfield).
Thanks Charles! I appreciate the feedback and the encouragement. Glad you got your squeal figured out. Safe Rides, Craig
Was your squeal from the belt tension or alignment?
@@tonyl8314 it was the alignment. Tension also needed addressed but was not that bad.
I have not even watched the video yet but I am glad you posted. I have done this job myself and I could have used some video help. Thanks!
Happy to help. I hope you get a minute to check it out.
Definitely the best video on this process I’ve found and I believe it’s the weakest point of the Indian motorcycle
Thanks James. Happy to help!
Hey James, I was re-reading your comment and I was wondering about it. Can you expand on your "weakest point" comment? I have 25,000 plus miles on my Chieftain. I haven't had any issues with the drive belt or the pulleys. So I'm wondering if you have and if so, what they were.
The 30,000 mile service schedule calls for changing the belt. I just completed the 30,000 miles service on my brother's 2015 Chieftain. I got to the belt and gave it a very detailed inspection and found it in pristine condition. He had just had the tires replaced (new Dunlop Elite 4's) at the Indian dealership. The belt was in spec for tension and was well aligned through several reverse rotations up on the lift. I just did the 25,000 mile service on mine finding no issues with the belt.
I decided to forgo replacing the belt on his bike. I seriously question the 30,000 replacement schedule if there are no visible defects. That's my own opinion and in another 5000, I will do the same on my Chieftain if it is not showing any damage or wear. I do a routine belt and underside inspection several times between oil changes (~every 1000miles or less), while up on the lift. I also look at the rear brake linings at the wear notches, inspect the tire face and sidewalls for damage or foreign bodies and give the rims and muffler undersides a clean and polish with Mother's. I also remove the hard bags and clean the back sides, wax and reinstall.
Just wondering about your belt weakness concerns. Regards, Craig
Yes at 10k my belt started whining I carried to the dealership they “cleaned” and adjusted my belt. Said it was the most loose belt they had ever seen. Rode to Yellowstone had to readjust on the road in Dubois Wyoming. Got it home they checked it and said it was adjusted fine but dirty. It has since then makes noise when it’s cold or raining not so much in the summer. That’s a 15 roadmaster. I also have an 16 chieftain with no issues whatsoever. I’m not understanding the dirty belt my chieftain and 1987 softail don’t have this issue. I actually told my dealer maybe Indian needs to buy belts from Harley cause they don’t get dirty. Roadmaster is at 30k chieftain is at 35k and who knows about the Harley I’m not buying 30k belts
I love my Indian smoothest riding bike I’ve been on just wish they would fix my belt issue
@@2bad1 I think if it was me, I'd pull the belt and replace it. I would also look at both the front and rear pulleys for unusual wear. I agree, the belt shouldn't need replacement at 30,000 if it looks OK but this is a strange issue and sadly, that might be the fix. I'm sorry you are having this problem. I would also post your issue on indianmotorcycle.net and see what others have to say. I sincerely hope you are successful at finding the fix. I'm not sure what contractor is making the Indian OEM belts, probably one of the big companies like Dayco or Gates. I just don't know but you could source one and replace yours. That might do the trick. Good Luck, and let me know what happens.
Nooo when you loosen axle nut , retourqe to 15 ft lbs while adjusting
He missed a couple of crucial steps. For one when tightening the axle it will tend to move back and loosen the adjuster, you need to tap the axle forwards to keep adjuster tight.
@@340rps Have you done this? If you had, you would know that isn't necessary. This procedure is straight out of the factory service manual. I did it by the book.
Wrong. Read the manual again.
Great video, thanks! You reference the adjustment window plastic device near the bell but I may have missed it, I don’t see you using that. How do you use that? Should you use that to make the measurements? What is it for? Thank you in advance
Craig Miller super video sir ,
clear explanation and neat work .keep on posting the video like this and share your knowledge so this will helpful .And thanks for sharing your service Manuel . And i want all types of service Manuel for Harley Davidson , Indian motorcycle , Ducati, kawasaki, BMW, Triumph, Moto Guzzi , Victory , Suzuki, Yamaha , Royal Enfield , Benelli if you have any of these please send me because this will very use full for me .
Big thump-up for this video
THANK YOU SIR
ALL THE BEST FOR YOUR FUTURE VIDEOS
Thanks Sunil!
Thanks for taking the time to make this video it is very helpful for us.
You're very welcome!
Great video. The best video out there describing how to adjust the tension. Regarding centering the belt. YOUR belt was all the way to the left. You adjusted the left alignment knob in a certain direction. If I wanted to adjust OPPOSITE of yours, would I simply turn that very same adjuster in the opposite direction? Forgive me for such a silly question, but I'm not very mechanical and I don't want to pay a $130/hour labor charge for something that I could possibly do myself. So I'm going to risk a stupid question and save $130 potentially.
Hi Chris, I hope all is well. In the time since that video was made, I have come to a realization that you don't want to get too crazy over where the belt tracks on the driven pulley as long as it is within the running channel. The main thing is that it is tracking within the limits of the outer edges of the pulley, and not riding up over or on it. You can drive yourself crazy trying to fine adjust it to ride center. I know that's what the manual calls for but I've found it unrealistic. It will wonder back and forth over several rotations. In my humble opinion, as long as it remains in the running channel of the driven pulley, and shows no unusual edge wear, makes no racket of any kind, you are good. This issue can drive a guy nuts. Best wishes... Craig
@@usethenoodle I really appreciate your candid feedback on this. These machines are so expensive and we become so attached to them that sometimes we can get a little crazy with how we care for them. I was ready to spend a lot of time getting that belt 2 mm to the left. Thanks for responding. Have a great day.
You too, As the last line of my reply said..."This issue can drive a guy nuts." I should have added, "Ask me how I know". My belt is original and at 26,000 miles, it still looks like new. It will wander side to side over several rotations but always stays easily in the running channel. I'm happy to help. Best wishes... Craig@@krismerchant4982
Great video! Thank you very much for your time and great explanation.
Glad it was helpful!
Felt right at home! Awesome tutorial
Thanks!
Best video I’ve found on this
Wow, thanks!
Very good video. You explained it very well.
Glad it was helpful!
Wish you put it in stander measurements great vido and info
Sorry Brother. The factory manual lists these in millimeters. The metric system is a much simpler system to use and it's based on tens. Ten mm in a CM. Adding 26mm to 45mm is far easier than adding 5/16 to 25/32. Metric also allows for easier and finer measurements. It's better all around for fluids too. I was in the medical profession and thats the standard system of measure there so I learned it years ago. Just use the other side of your ruler. Even my 22 year old Ford pickup truck is almost all metric. Time to learn something new. You'll be glad you did. I will admit I dislike it for temp. Best Regards.
I have the Buffalo brand air horn as well Randy hook me up real well met him and his wife down at Daytona Beach Florida during Bike Week 2018 that horn has saved my butt many times not only do I use it in Anger when someone does something stupid I also do it for fun... LOL
Ya, Randy was in a popup over at the Tamoka Farm Road campground/swap meet. Thats where I met him as well, and he installed the long horn on both my brothers Chieftain and mine. Randy is a great guy and yes, his wife is lovely too. I had a chance to hang out with him this past Bike Week in New Smyrna at the 2019 Daytona owners meeting. He lives in Louisiana I believe. I was at Sturgis the whole time this year and I was hawking his horn to a bunch of Indian owners. It's the best horn out there. He recently came out with a bug screen for it. Works great to keep the big ones out and off the horn diaphragm. By brother ingested a large Florida sized bug in his horn and it caused the horn to temporarily fail. He called Randy who told him to take it apart and clean the bug debris out of it and off the thin diaphragm. That cured it. He then sent us both a prototype bug screen. Very nice rubber circle with two different sized stainless mesh molded in. Easy to install and keeps the bugs out. I believe he will supply one for owners of his horns. I always give mine a short test when I set out. It's never failed to pass. It looks bad ass too.
Randy hook me up with a bug screen for my horn as well and a nice t-shirt that I always try to wear when I go to rallies or just out with friends that have Indians. 😎
Thank you for this great video, Craig.
I bought 4 month ago, in second hand, an Indian Roadmaster of 2015. After few kilometres (maybe 400 km) I heard a noise comming from the belt. I used a teflon based lubricant on the belt but it works only for some time. I recently saw your interresting video, so i will try to adjust the tension and alignement. Just one question what kind of lift do you use ? Is it available in Europe ?
I apologize for the mistakes, as you know french are not easy with english or american language.
Hi from the USA! Your english is a lot better than my French and that's for sure. Here is the Amazon link to the lift I use. Be sure to not crush the steel lines underneath. Cut some short wood spacers ~1.5-2cm square to use between the lift and the bottom of the engine. www.amazon.com/VIVOHOME-Scissor-Motorcycle-Scooter-1100Lb/dp/B06X9CYNJF/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=motorcycle+lift&qid=1571767771&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExSjNVVlNSRlVCVUIzJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMzg5NjI2Mzk3RVY2UVgxQThIVyZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUExMDEyMjU5Mlk5MDFWNTVZN1pLUSZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=
That helped a lot. Thanks
I'm happy it helped!
Great job thank you
My pleasure Johnny! Best regards. Safe rides.
Great video, when using the belt tension gauge tool and looking in the belt gaurd window with the notches, do you line up the bottom of the belt to the proper notch?
Thanks. I just find the tightest position starting with the valve stem and Check every quarter rotation until I find the tightest position. Then I apply the tool at that position and measure it with a ruler. I adjust the tension accordingly to spec.
It call for 1.3” when did it say 34mm?
Thanks a million for taking the time and effort to share. It’s almost time for me to do the 5000 mile service on my Springfield. Can you offer any guidance on how to lift the bike. I have the owners manual and the service manual both seem a little vague on how to jack it up. It appears to me you just lift it from the bottom of the engine but I haven’t seen anything about lift points. Besides the break lines is there anything I should avoid ?
Hi Glen, In the video you can see the lift I use. Or heres the Amazon link. www.amazon.com/dp/B01860HLCU?aaxitk=aIh.rfhuQWR8LICROnrX.w&pd_rd_i=B01860HLCU&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=3930100107420870094&pf_rd_s=desktop-sx-top-slot&pf_rd_t=301&pf_rd_i=motorcycle+jack&hsa_cr_id=3364141150601
I don't use the two little black risers. They slide right off. I place it under the engine just ahead of the two oil plugs. I cut a couple wood spacers so I wouldn't crush any of the lines that run along the right side case underneath. The wood is perhaps 1" by 1" and the width of the lift face. Slide the jack under and using a 1/2" drive ratchet with a 3/4" socket slowly raise the jack placing the wood while looking that it is in the right place. keep raising the jack and reach up and grab the right handle bar helping it come up vertical. When the bike is fully supported by the jack and vertical, continue lifting until the rear tire is up off the floor. By repositioning the jack and spacers more forward, it will lift the front tire off the floor. I tie the bike with 3/8" rope to prevent it tipping to one side or the other.
Craig Miller Thanks again for the info. I was a little reluctant to lift it by the motor. Had visions of cracking something but I guess it was designed that way. Cheers !
Yes it is designed that way. The engine is part of the frame. If you look under your bike, you will note the frame comes down from the front and attaches to the front of the engine block. Then there is no frame under the engine. Then, the aft part of the frame attaches to the rear of the block and goes on back. The frame has an aluminum "spine" under the fuel tank that is part frame and part air duct to direct air to the stock air box. That spine and the frame tubes with the engine block comprise the frame. A word of caution... I do not use the two little sliding stands atop the lift. I took them off. There are some applications for those, dirt bikes and quads etc, but not on the Indian. I cut a couple wood spacers so I could carefully lift the bike positioning them to protect the several brake lines and such that run along the right side under the motor. I also position these to make the weight bear on the areas of the block where the bolts run through the block. Look at 7:06 in the video and pause. That shows the two spacers and how they are positioned. Only lift the bike as high as you need to do the job.
Great video Craig, very detailed. But, I am curious about what that luggage pod/boot is on the rear of your bike?Is it custom made? Thx.
Hi Rob. Its a Smuggler Trunk from Corbin. It's on their website. Its basically a glove box.
Thanks Craig... looks good, albeit quite small inside. Still, I've only seen one (yours). I like :)
PS, there are zero videos about the Indian trunk on YT... you know, just in case you want to get in on it. First is best ya know :)
Yes, it is quite small inside. But... you can put all your small stuff in it. Wallet, sunglasses, keys, sunblock, vest extenders etc that get swallowed up into the bottoms of the big bags. I have a corbin seat. I never have a passenger so I went this direction. Its really well made and it comes painted in your bike's color or any color you want. It has a bracket that connects it under the seat and the one fender bolt. So 3 fasteners removes the seat and trunk as a unit. Also, be sure to check out buffalobrand.co for the airhorn Randy Verdun makes. Its loud as hell!
Like to hear the horn, hows the Corbin seat? Excellent video its my speed.
I love the Corbin seat. Super comfortable!
@@usethenoodle Thanks
@@randysweat8470 Oh ya... the horn from Randy Verdun’s Buffalo Brand sounds like a tug boat horn. It is an actual air horn with a small air compressor (hidden under the horn cover). It really gets peoples attention. I’ve used it in anger more than once and man, they jump. 👍👍
Absolutely fantastic Video! Thank you for sharing this!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Hi. where do you have the jack under the motorcycle?
Hi Miro. If you look under the bike you will see several lines and such that you don't want to damage. I cut two small 1' by 1" by 6" wood spacers. I put those between the bike and the jack. I arrange them so that they keep the jack from damaging anything. You just have to use trial and error until you get it in a good place. It's really pretty easy.
@@usethenoodle thank you. I see that it is grounded directly under the engine. won't the engine be damaged?
good luck getting it to run centered. If it ran centered when new no reason it would not be the same. If it ain't making noise leave it alone. That belt tension looks good right where it is. I'd leave it. Take it for a ride then see where the belt is riding. You can spin the tire all day on the jack, that means squat.
All I did in this video is follow the factory SERVICE manual to the letter for demonstration purposes. Buy the FACTORY manual and read it for yourself. The video is meant to help people who may not possess the confidence to try this without seeing it. I'm not really looking for community advice such as you gave me. I'm not new to this sort of thing and while I appreciate your input, I think you missed my point. This video shows exactly what is printed in the factory service manual to the letter. That is what it meant to show. Nothing more.
I bought a 2018 Chieftain with 5K miles on it. I notice when riding , that when I let off the throttle I hear a whirring noise coming from rear.......any thoughts?
Check the muffler hardware to be sure nothing is loose. Sorry, but without hearing it I'd have trouble pinpointing it. Just be sure everything it tight. Look the belt over very closely for missing chunks. At 5000 miles, I find it had to believe it's some sort of wear issue. I have almost 21,000 on mine and it's only been in the shop for a few recalls and a failed voltage regulator which was replaced under warrantee.
What is wrong with the two knuckleheads who gave this a thumbs down.
Must be non Americans...
Those thumbs down are done by the guys who don't put up videos, don't know how to put up a video and contribute nothing to the common good. :0)
Sub'd and thumbs up! Well Done. I live near Bowling Green Kentucky ..... maybe we could make some rides together if we don't live to far apart? I would like to know more about the exhaust. It looks like true-duals by freedom? I don't want my bike any louder. I do want less heat from the cat. I was thinking about just drilling holes in it while it was on the bike. Then blowing out debris by blipping the throttle. I am thinking a drilled cat would be less efficient and produce less heat... I think? I have seen all kinds of videos on u tube. Ideas?
Hi David. Thanks for the sub and your kind words. I live near Tacoma in Washington State. I don't know if you are a regular at Bike Week in Daytona Beach or not. I do attend the full 10 days of the event every March so if you are planning to be there, yes by all means give me a shout. I trailer my Indian from up here in WA all the way to Florida ever year. I get lots of "why don't you ride it rather than trailer?" For many reasons. I go to Florida for a couple months and I need too much stuff to be gone that long only with what I could carry on the bike. Also there is usually a lot of snow and ice on the initial legs of the trip in mountain passes in mid February when I leave Washington. I also hunt hogs in Texas on my way back up after I leave Florida so I need several guns and hunting gear. I have a 30 ft toy hauler RV I tow behind a Ford Super Duty Diesel which makes the trip very nice.
So... exhaust, yes. They are True Dual Headers. I also have the stage 1 air cleaner and slip on mufflers, as well as the cams. I really like the way the bike sounds now. Yes it is a bit louder but to me, It's not obnoxious at all. I love the lopping idle with the cams and I can tell the increased in power over stock very easily. I couldn't have an Indian set up any other way now that I have this. I did test ride a 116 equipped Chieftain at Daytona last March. That will pin your ears back. Very fast and even a bit scary. As for drilling holes in the cat? I have no idea how that would turn out. I didn't do the conversion to True Duals to eliminate heat. I did it for sound and power. But it does make a huge difference in the amount of heat. I hope this helps. Craig
I have followed instructions to the letter, but no matter what I do, it always ends up against the inside of the sproket or the outside of the sproket. I can rotate it all day in the garage and it stays centered but as soon as I get on the road it shifts
Hi Michael, Yes I take your point. I have had a similar problem too. If I lift the bike, and rotate the rear wheel watching the belt, it moves in and out of alignment, back and forth. I have thought this over long and hard. Here is my analysis. Perhaps you may have some thoughts as well. If so I would appreciate your input.
The drive pulley on the output shaft of the transmission is small compared to the driven pulley on the rear rim. So, it takes several revolutions of the drive pulley to rotate the driven pulley one complete turn. I don't know the exact number. I believe there can be imperfections in trueness of both pulleys as well as the adjustment for the alignment of the rear wheel with the straight ahead center point of the bike. I assume these pulleys are castings which are finally machined to a finished product. These then have to be mounted on the output shaft and the rear wheel. It seems to me there is a lot of opportunity for the assemblies to be ever so slightly un-true. Just a guess. Lift your bike and slowly rotate the rear wheel watching the belt, and tell me if it moves its alignment side to side during rotation vs just stays on one side or the other.
Next as to how critical this alignment is. I also ride snowmobiles (I have an 800cc 2016 Polaris Axys 155 Rocky Mountain King) which are belt driven and the drive belt is very similar in appearance to the drive belt on our Indians. The torture the drive belt takes in it's job amazes me it can go more than a few miles before it blows. At idle, the SM belt is not captured by the drive (centrifugal clutch) or driven pulleys (output via jackshaft to track). As the SM engine RPM is increased, the driven pulley actually opens up allowing the moving belt to slip down into a smaller and smaller diameter space changing the gear ratio. As we slow the rpm, it moves up and out to a larger diameter space thus gearing down. This belt gets a lot of slip between both pulleys. We always carry a spare because they do blow. Some less aggressive riders may get 2 or 3 seasons out of a belt. Hotdog riders get less. So the belts are durable as hell.
Back to the Indian belt... The Indian belt is a non slip cogged to pulleys deal. Much easier service than a snowmobile and way slower rpms. So how critical is a gnats ass alignment of the belt? I'm thinking not so much within a certain degree of accuracy. I stressed over this mentally for quite a while after I made the video. This is only my opinion. The shop guys at Indian may say different. I feel as long as the belt is not so out of alignment that it's trying to ride up one edge of the driven pulley or the other, meaning its riding easily on the face of the pulley, thats good enough. Due to the imperfections I list above, I don't believe a perfect 360 degree rotational alignment at the exact center of the driven pulley is even possible on some or possibly all bikes.
Before I had my Indian, I had and still have a 2013 glossy black Victory Vegas. On my by first trip to Daytona Beach ( I trailer via pickup and toy hauler from Washington State) for Bike Week 2015, I wanted to have Ryland Voss of the Vic Shop (he's here on RUclips) in Adel Iowa do some hot rodding and Dyno work to the bike. I did not have my Indian until later that summer in June. When I got there (mid February and negative 20!), Ryland found a screw in my rear tire. So, I had to have a new tire put on it. He had that rear wheel off in like 4 minutes. I drove it to another bike shop and they mounted and balanced the new tire. When I got back to Vic Shop, Ryland replaced tire and rim. He just eyeballed the alignment marks side to side and that was it. He has done it enough I suppose that he easily eyeballed the belt deflection too. Just used his hand checking tension to get it where he wanted. He didn't stress over a gnats ass alignment or tension procedure like the one in my video. It literally took him maybe 7-10 minutes to reinstall, align and tension adjust the belt/tire/wheel assembly.
So, final thoughts... lift the bike, mark the side of the belt with a sharpie pen and slowly rotate the rear tire looking closely for wear as shown in the owners manual. Inspect it really well with a critical eye. Use a good flashlight or shop light to inspect. If it's damaged in any way... time to replace it. Use the deflection tool to check tension and adjust as needed. I believe the tension is the most important adjustment. Last, rotate the tire watching the belt riding on the face of the driven pulley to be sure it is not radically out of alignment where the outside edges are wearing from riding up the sides of the pulley. That it's riding easily within the sides of the pulley. Check it every 1-2 thousand miles if it makes you feel better. Some might do it every oil change which is what I do.
Lastly, make a service appointment and let them align it and see how they do for accuracy. I'm betting they don't get it any closer. The service manual says if you change the belt, change both pulleys at the same time as a set! E-GAD. I'm thinking if the pulleys are obviously worn compared to new... fine. But if not...Me, I'm just doing the belt. Can you imagine how much those pulleys cost from Indian? Hundreds for sure. A snowmobile belt runs around $120 for OEM and ~ $90 for a Gates. I don't know what our Indian drive belts go for. $$$$ I'm sure.
These are just my opinions. You have to decide what is best for you and what you are comfortable with. Warmest Regards, Craig
Sorry about the length of this reply. ;0)
Did you ... rotate wheel backward and adjust till belt rides to outside edge. then rotate wheel forward, adjust to belt comes off outside edge. When you tighten axle nut the axle tends to shift. Make sure axle stays forward (try to jiggle adjuster) If it jiggles tap the axle nut forward with plastic dead blow hammer or use a block of wood.. And still once you ride you still may need to make adjustment. Supposedly when you ride the engine is now applying torque to the belt causing movement. Chances are you will never get it centered, just off one side or the other would be fine, or if it ain't squeaking leave it.
I found nothing in the Manuel and talked to a tech, he said it was normal to be on the inside
@@ShabLee Owners manual or shop manual? Owners manual will probably just say use the alignment marks. I use the method I posted above on my Victory, which is the same set up as Indian( from Victory shop manual) and I always have success the first shot. Yes the belt will drift to the outboard side once driven but never make any noise. You will notice when you wheel the bike backwards the the belt will start to track to the inside but will track back once ridden forward. Like Craig said you will never get it dead center you will just drive yourself nuts.
340rps The tech told me it was absolutely normal. I’ll contact another to see what they say.
👍
I thought that the suspension has to be loaded when checking drive belt.
Hi Bob! I downloaded the manual and confirmed everything is done on the jack. I'm a retired aircraft mechanic and was surprised that it wasn't checked under load too. It may be that belts are more forgiving than chains.
@@denisewildfortune4058 Yes, I have the manual and I did this procedure by the numbers.
Where did you obtain the PDF shop manual?
Myron Benware I have the pdf for the 2017 models I could send you. Even if yours is a different year I don’t think there would be much difference.
How can we arrange this? That would be great. I just bought a 2016 Roadmaster with onle 1,600 miles on it.
Myron, look at this forum post, the link to the service manual .pdf download is there.
www.indianmotorcycles.net/threads/turn-signal-troubles.219808/#post-2542348
Thanks for the info. Apparently this link is no longer valid.
Myron Benware this should do it. drive.google.com/file/d/0B7ax-eITFWeWVk1CSFhuMnFaLWM/view
If your gonna pay $27,000 for a bike, a few extra bucks on the tools you need won't bankrupt you.
Two comments that say the same thing makes me concerned for your memory. Or perhaps you feel doubly strong about some tool you believe I cheeped out on. What tool do I not have? Please explain. Also see my comment to your first post. There's always "some guy" here on RUclips. You Duane, are that guy. Look man, a cheap skate I'm not. I buy all quality tools. The belt tool is the same as the one Indian sells for 3 times the money. If you want your belt deflection tool to say Indian on it, knock yourself out. As for my bike as it sits with the customization I have, it's at $44,000 and counting. So you can't accuse me of cutting financial corners. Point two, I made this to help people. I didn't force you to watch it. Maybe get out from behind your computer screen and make a better one if you are such an expert mechanic, tool buyer, and film maker. Don't snivel and bitch, make a better video.
Craig Miller belt tensioner
@@tax905972 belt tensioner is is about as useful as the belt tightness specs. Polaris seems to have learned from Victory that their specs were way to tight as when the belt heats up it will get WAY to tight. Guess it is ok if you like replacing belts and bearings prematurely.
Just buy the proper tool for it.
Duane, what tool are you talking about? If you are talking the belt tension measuring device, It's a generic tool graduated in pounds. The Indian tool that I list the part number for is exactly the same tool, probably made by the same people for 3 times the money because it says Indian Motorcycle on it. Feel free to order the one from Indian if you want. It's a spring in a tube with pounds of force marked on it and a foot to fit the belt. Other than that... I don't know what tool I use in this video that you seem to think is improper??? Read the shop manual. This is the procedure. This is how Indian says to do it. I made a wood block holder for my ruler to aid in deflection measurement since it's sort of a 3 handed operation and God only let me have two hands. Four would be a lot better but we only get two.
Geeze. I made this video because there were none on all of RUclips addressing this specific procedure at the time. It's longish but it's a complicated procedure to get it right and an abbreviated video leaving things out would have been of little use since a lot of guys don't have a lot of mechanical skills. So, again... What tool are you talking about? You commented twice the same comment about buying some so called proper tool.
I'm amazed at people who chip in criticism at people who take their time to make a video in order to help out others. I'm not monetized by anyone for doing the few I actually do so it's free buddy. Nobody made you watch it. You found it so I assume you were looking for help. I'm not a professional film producer. I'm just a guy with a GoPro trying to show interested parties how Indian says to do this. I took it line by line straight out of the shop manual. Take it or leave it. Make your own damn video if you think you are such a gifted film maker and mechanic. I guess no good deeds go unpunished.
Craig Miller yup
Craig Miller you used a stick.and a sharpie
😴😴😴
Hey Rob, Did I make you watch it? Whats up with jerks like you to criticize a good deed done with the best intentions? Like helping others. Make your own fucking video.