I am currently building a vent system that circulate the air through a HEPA filter and only let air out of the enclosure if it is getting too hot. The flow of the system is controlled by a small RPI hat and is connected to an air quality monitor. I wanted to use the RPI cause I already have one for Octoprint, but it would probably have been better to just run the ventilation off a Arduino. One thing that I am really careful about is draft inside the enclosure. I will let PPM values get a little high during prints rather than circulating too hard. Instead I will circulate and vent once the prints are done. I like your designs and also found Onshape a very valuable tool for these projects. Keep up the good work. Cheers.
I'm not expert in this but HEPA seems useless for the 3D printer fumes. HEPA is good for removing particles down to 0.3 microns. But those are usually dust, bacteria etc. Fumes molecules are way smaller (from 0.001 to 0.10 microns) so they would just fly through the HEPA with ease. I will be checking if the prints get any worse because of the draft but so far it's been printing great. Since I print with the printer door and top closed I believe the draft won't be strong enough to cause any issues
@@therealfazee That is actually not correct. It is true that HEPA filters list their rating and effectiveness for 0.3 micron particles, but that is because those "medium-sized" (medium as far ultra fine particles goes) are the hardest to be catched by use of a filter. A bit counter intuitive, but both larger AND smaller than 0.3 micron particles will get stuck in the filter easier than the 0.3 micron ones will.
thank you for uploading this i felt like i went through each step and revision with you. i appreciate the time you took in documenting your journey and fleshing out the video. i’m thankful you saw it as a learning opportunity because i certainly learned something too.
thankfully it's a covered patio, but it could still be helpful to a little sloped ledge above the top of the outlet, to reduce the risk of water ingress. (and also caulk the outer part's flange to the door). also, maybe a very thin layer of some squishy silicone rubber or foam on the interface between the vent and the printer, to prevent leakage. because the fan is inside the printer, the adapter where you connect the hose is at a positive pressure, meaning any gaps will leak exhaust back out into the room
What are the cons of adding an inlet fan to the exhaust pipe? I still get plenty of VOC's (smells) coming out from the top/front. Venting the main exhaust and auxiliary exhaust on the other side a bad idea? The air flow that would be sucked in would come from the poop opening. I was thinking could add a small heater chamber that can heat the air being sucked in to control temp to keep the chamber at desired temp and maintain a good airflow that takes all the harmful air out and away.
the nerve.. :D will be making a V2.0 soon, will be designing all the parts from scratch instead of using someone else's work, and will release the STL's
I use what is basically a grow tent, vent hose has an inline fan which I feed into a big cylindrical carbon filter which is way overkill for the small enclosure but works a treat. Search “grow tent carbon filter” to see what I’m talking about. I also run an air purifier with carbon filter in the room for when I’m not using the enclosure, like with PLA and PETG.
inline fan is in the plan for Ventilation 2.0.. :) tent is a good idea, even with ventilation on the smell still gets out of the printer through all of these small gaps etc..
@@therealfazee No smell gets out due to the pressure differential. When I turn the fan on to its lowest setting the sides of the enclosure are pulled in, even with gaps in the zipper for power (printer and lighting) and Teflon tubing for external spool or AMS. I use the enclosure for resin printing too and never smelled a hint of anything even with resin that is definitely not low odor. Of course I eventually have to open the enclosure eventually, that’s when I kick the air purifier to high. I’ve also covered the HVAC intake on that floor. I live in a 3 story townhouse; printing stuff is on the mostly-unused first floor (laundry, garage, front door). My setup isn’t as good as just venting straight outside but it’s the best I could do and honestly works better than I’d hoped.
I note that where the fan is on the printer the wall in front of it looks like it's metal, is the side of the Carbon X1 Magnetic Metal, Aluminium or plastic? Have you also thought about increasing the magnetic strength by fitting a shim between the fan and the internal wall of the printer with some slim n52 bar magnets in it? this would mean all that you would need for the out side on your connector would be a thin metal plate.
the draft going out will make your bed vary in actual temprature as its not a circulated heated enviroment pulling in cold air that will cause cold pockets idside the build area and your alignments out of tollerances like the cold pockets shrink and the hotter areas expand you get a pretzel
You've got to remove the carbon filter and remove the little the door to it for proper ventilation. I've tested air flow, and the "Temperature control" fan actually sucks air inside the enclosure in the stock and unmodified X1C
Are you sure about that? Because when I put the chamber fan to 100% I can definitely feel and smell the air coming out of the housing that I placed outside, it's not sucking the air from there, and my X1C is stock. To remove the little door might be good idea though, will probably do that when the filter is due for replacement
@@therealfazee I've tested the air flow using a piece of toilet paper and to my surprise the piece stuck to the back of the fan instead of being blown by it, so it's definitely sucking air in. After some research, I found a thread on the subject on the Bambulab forum (search for "P1S: Chamber Fan Direction"). Incredibly, it explains both your result and mine. I think there is not enough air flowing from the enclosure to the fan, so the path of least resistance involves taking air from outside the enclosure and immediately blowing it outside. Surely this can be improved upon
@@therealfazee the net air flow is going outwards, but I think that there is too little air from the enclosure getting to the fan, so the vast majority of the air is sucked in from outside and immediately blown back out through turbulence. I can't find out if this is by design... I have yet to create a venting solution of my own. I'm still in the process of printing parts, so let me know if you end up testing opening the little door to the activated carbon while printing ABS or PC. I'm not sure it's a good idea to vent with an increased flow of air since these materials need high temperatures to flow correctly and prevent warping, and it might be hard for the X1C to keep up with an increased flow. However, I would tend to at least try to increase the air flow because I hear the X1C fogs up with VOC (deposits?) when printing with ABS.
@@eliotbolduc1672 that's true it's not much of air even at 100% as the fan is more like PC fan for cooling rather than extracting it out. That's why I was thinking on adding the extractor fan in the line. But the room definitely doesn't smell when I print PLA (70% aux, 70% chamber) and I can smell it when I get outside so must be working to some extent :) haven't printed ABS yet I but I realize the high airflow might cause warping or lifting issue, will see. Yes X1C fogs up pretty easy even when printing PLA or PETG (the glass was all fogged up not sure which one of those caused it lol). Thanks for input!
potentially dumb question: is venting REQUIRED for the X1C? I'm planning on getting one but It would have to be in my room. (Noise isn't a factor to me, im not worried about the smell either) but I'm trying to find information on if it's actually required. I'm thinking about getting this one over the P1P because I heard it's print quality is overall better than the P1P. Thanks in advance!!!
Print quality can be the same if you calibrate your filament which is generally easier with the X1C which can do it automatically thanks to the lidar. However auto calibration doesn’t work with sparkly or translucent filament. I only print in an enclosure when I’m printing ASA or PC, but I also run an air purifier in the room with a carbon filter because printing with any filament gives off VOCs.
Hi friend, your project looks really good. Congratulations. Wouldn't it be worth using an extra fan? Are you using the printer's own fan? Friend, I don't know how to make 3D objects. Can you please share the project files? Thank you very much in advance. 
Yes I'm only using the printer fan. I guess it would be ok to add an inline fan, planning it for V2 if I ever get to make it (together with relay on the valve so I don't have to open it manually)
I'm not really that proficient in Onshape. I watched thread tutorial on YT and making it was basically trial/error process haha. I believe those tutorials will describe it better than I ever would.
the hose is connected with magnets, the hose will just detach and flop to the floor. it's also magneted to the back of the printer, so it's unclear which end will detach first, but that doesn't matter here since either way, you just... stick it back on and everything's fine.
I am currently building a vent system that circulate the air through a HEPA filter and only let air out of the enclosure if it is getting too hot. The flow of the system is controlled by a small RPI hat and is connected to an air quality monitor. I wanted to use the RPI cause I already have one for Octoprint, but it would probably have been better to just run the ventilation off a Arduino. One thing that I am really careful about is draft inside the enclosure. I will let PPM values get a little high during prints rather than circulating too hard. Instead I will circulate and vent once the prints are done. I like your designs and also found Onshape a very valuable tool for these projects. Keep up the good work. Cheers.
I'm not expert in this but HEPA seems useless for the 3D printer fumes. HEPA is good for removing particles down to 0.3 microns. But those are usually dust, bacteria etc. Fumes molecules are way smaller (from 0.001 to 0.10 microns) so they would just fly through the HEPA with ease. I will be checking if the prints get any worse because of the draft but so far it's been printing great. Since I print with the printer door and top closed I believe the draft won't be strong enough to cause any issues
@@therealfazee semi correct and I might end up with a hybrid solution depending on the testing ahead.
Do you can't outside or recirculate inside? If to outside why filter at all?
@@therealfazee That is actually not correct. It is true that HEPA filters list their rating and effectiveness for 0.3 micron particles, but that is because those "medium-sized" (medium as far ultra fine particles goes) are the hardest to be catched by use of a filter. A bit counter intuitive, but both larger AND smaller than 0.3 micron particles will get stuck in the filter easier than the 0.3 micron ones will.
Any chance you have a share link for the 3D print files?
Dude I need you to upload more tutorials on creating these works of art lol
planning to, thanks!
thank you for uploading this
i felt like i went through each step and revision with you.
i appreciate the time you took in documenting your journey and fleshing out the video.
i’m thankful you saw it as a learning opportunity because i certainly learned something too.
thankfully it's a covered patio, but it could still be helpful to a little sloped ledge above the top of the outlet, to reduce the risk of water ingress. (and also caulk the outer part's flange to the door). also, maybe a very thin layer of some squishy silicone rubber or foam on the interface between the vent and the printer, to prevent leakage. because the fan is inside the printer, the adapter where you connect the hose is at a positive pressure, meaning any gaps will leak exhaust back out into the room
What are the cons of adding an inlet fan to the exhaust pipe? I still get plenty of VOC's (smells) coming out from the top/front. Venting the main exhaust and auxiliary exhaust on the other side a bad idea? The air flow that would be sucked in would come from the poop opening. I was thinking could add a small heater chamber that can heat the air being sucked in to control temp to keep the chamber at desired temp and maintain a good airflow that takes all the harmful air out and away.
I'm planning to add an extractor fan in the exhaust line.. I but I think that might cause too much negative pressure and some issues
So this guy made a whole video listed all the amazon links to the part he used for the project, but didn't share even the STL?
the nerve.. :D will be making a V2.0 soon, will be designing all the parts from scratch instead of using someone else's work, and will release the STL's
Hola, que proyecto más genial.
gracias
I use what is basically a grow tent, vent hose has an inline fan which I feed into a big cylindrical carbon filter which is way overkill for the small enclosure but works a treat. Search “grow tent carbon filter” to see what I’m talking about. I also run an air purifier with carbon filter in the room for when I’m not using the enclosure, like with PLA and PETG.
inline fan is in the plan for Ventilation 2.0.. :) tent is a good idea, even with ventilation on the smell still gets out of the printer through all of these small gaps etc..
@@therealfazee No smell gets out due to the pressure differential. When I turn the fan on to its lowest setting the sides of the enclosure are pulled in, even with gaps in the zipper for power (printer and lighting) and Teflon tubing for external spool or AMS. I use the enclosure for resin printing too and never smelled a hint of anything even with resin that is definitely not low odor.
Of course I eventually have to open the enclosure eventually, that’s when I kick the air purifier to high. I’ve also covered the HVAC intake on that floor. I live in a 3 story townhouse; printing stuff is on the mostly-unused first floor (laundry, garage, front door).
My setup isn’t as good as just venting straight outside but it’s the best I could do and honestly works better than I’d hoped.
I note that where the fan is on the printer the wall in front of it looks like it's metal, is the side of the Carbon X1 Magnetic Metal, Aluminium or plastic? Have you also thought about increasing the magnetic strength by fitting a shim between the fan and the internal wall of the printer with some slim n52 bar magnets in it? this would mean all that you would need for the out side on your connector would be a thin metal plate.
Um I sleep with this in my room do I need to fix that?
I loved the content but please dont blast the music 8x louder than your voice in between you talking if possible
lol yeah the ducking was generated automatically, it's never 100% accurate, will pay more attention to that
@@therealfazee Haha good, by the quality of your communication I could tell it was likely not intentional.
the draft going out will make your bed vary in actual temprature as its not a circulated heated enviroment pulling in cold air that will cause cold pockets idside the build area and your alignments out of tollerances like the cold pockets shrink and the hotter areas expand you get a pretzel
works perfectly so far, will keep my eye on it, it doesn't seem there is much draft there when the printer is closed
Hey, will you post the STEP files for the printer attachment?
You've got to remove the carbon filter and remove the little the door to it for proper ventilation. I've tested air flow, and the "Temperature control" fan actually sucks air inside the enclosure in the stock and unmodified X1C
Are you sure about that? Because when I put the chamber fan to 100% I can definitely feel and smell the air coming out of the housing that I placed outside, it's not sucking the air from there, and my X1C is stock. To remove the little door might be good idea though, will probably do that when the filter is due for replacement
@@therealfazee I've tested the air flow using a piece of toilet paper and to my surprise the piece stuck to the back of the fan instead of being blown by it, so it's definitely sucking air in.
After some research, I found a thread on the subject on the Bambulab forum (search for "P1S: Chamber Fan Direction"). Incredibly, it explains both your result and mine. I think there is not enough air flowing from the enclosure to the fan, so the path of least resistance involves taking air from outside the enclosure and immediately blowing it outside. Surely this can be improved upon
@@therealfazee the net air flow is going outwards, but I think that there is too little air from the enclosure getting to the fan, so the vast majority of the air is sucked in from outside and immediately blown back out through turbulence. I can't find out if this is by design...
I have yet to create a venting solution of my own. I'm still in the process of printing parts, so let me know if you end up testing opening the little door to the activated carbon while printing ABS or PC. I'm not sure it's a good idea to vent with an increased flow of air since these materials need high temperatures to flow correctly and prevent warping, and it might be hard for the X1C to keep up with an increased flow. However, I would tend to at least try to increase the air flow because I hear the X1C fogs up with VOC (deposits?) when printing with ABS.
@@eliotbolduc1672 that's true it's not much of air even at 100% as the fan is more like PC fan for cooling rather than extracting it out. That's why I was thinking on adding the extractor fan in the line. But the room definitely doesn't smell when I print PLA (70% aux, 70% chamber) and I can smell it when I get outside so must be working to some extent :) haven't printed ABS yet I but I realize the high airflow might cause warping or lifting issue, will see. Yes X1C fogs up pretty easy even when printing PLA or PETG (the glass was all fogged up not sure which one of those caused it lol). Thanks for input!
Great initiative. I'd love a copy of the STL file for the piece that connections directly to the back of the printer and connects to the 50mm pipe.
I would assume its published in onshape
potentially dumb question: is venting REQUIRED for the X1C? I'm planning on getting one but It would have to be in my room. (Noise isn't a factor to me, im not worried about the smell either) but I'm trying to find information on if it's actually required. I'm thinking about getting this one over the P1P because I heard it's print quality is overall better than the P1P. Thanks in advance!!!
depends on filament.. but it's not required
Print quality depends on settings...you can get same result from p1p/p1s/x1c....x1c has more features,p1p p1s needs more manual calibration
Print quality can be the same if you calibrate your filament which is generally easier with the X1C which can do it automatically thanks to the lidar. However auto calibration doesn’t work with sparkly or translucent filament. I only print in an enclosure when I’m printing ASA or PC, but I also run an air purifier in the room with a carbon filter because printing with any filament gives off VOCs.
Anyone know where to get the STL files for this?
will be making a V2.0 soon, will be designing all the parts from scratch instead of using someone else's work, and will release the STL's
Great video and concept! Are the files available anywhere?
didn't think of that as it's basically custom setup. Maybe when I'm done with v2.0
I'm looking forward to it then!@@therealfazee
Hi friend, your project looks really good. Congratulations. Wouldn't it be worth using an extra fan? Are you using the printer's own fan? Friend, I don't know how to make 3D objects. Can you please share the project files? Thank you very much in advance.

Yes I'm only using the printer fan. I guess it would be ok to add an inline fan, planning it for V2 if I ever get to make it (together with relay on the valve so I don't have to open it manually)
Would love to be able to print this! Any chance of sharing the files?
not at the moment, they are way too specific for my use anyway
does it also reduce the fan noise?
yes absolutely
hello, could you pls show us how you made custom threads in more details pls, thx
I'm not really that proficient in Onshape. I watched thread tutorial on YT and making it was basically trial/error process haha. I believe those tutorials will describe it better than I ever would.
Cut the flap in half and print them horizontally. then clue them later
I was just worried the rod won't be perfectly round then
you should add a bento box inside too
interesting! just reading about it, thanks for suggestion
30 deg the gate valve on the bed
Can you share the files to 3D print them?
will be releasing them when I finish v.2
@@therealfazee can’t wait, v1 looks good!
Music (in between speech) vs speech volume is way too high. It's hard to hear you and the non speaking parts have way too high volume.
will have to work on that, it's automatic ducking and sometimes it doesn't work precisely
Dude. Your voice is AI.
yes it's AI clone of my own voice. Way faster to process and easier to edit
Nice catch!
It will be a disaster when some one opens that door from the outside !!
the hose is connected with magnets, the hose will just detach and flop to the floor. it's also magneted to the back of the printer, so it's unclear which end will detach first, but that doesn't matter here since either way, you just... stick it back on and everything's fine.
exactly.. not worried about that at all.. it detaches really easily