Replacing Posts in lower level of the Bank Barn
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- Опубликовано: 21 сен 2024
- I am back on the barn renovation project. It is time to tackle the structural problems in the lower level of the barn. We need to replace all the posts on the south side. The old posts are rotten the upper floor is starting to sag because of it. We are going to replace the posts with new 6x6 treated posts.
This is just a small part of repairing this old barn so it will last many more years. And it puts us one step closer to getting livestock.
/ countryviewacreshomestead
You have done a ton of work since you’ve been on the farm. And what a big difference. Doesn’t look like the same place. You are jack of all trades and do a wonderful job. God bless you and Rebecca.
Placing the post on steel brackets will keep the treated lumber from ever rotting. Even treated lumber will rot if exposed to water from the concrete. Great job on all the work in the barn ;)
I'm doing the same on some of my posts. They are 10x10. Do you know where one would get a metal bracket that size? I even thought of welding one up but not sure of the best design? Any ideas?
@@psnmchl do a search on this channel This is where I got the idea from ;) ruclips.net/user/RRBuildings
It's always nice to see people maintaining old barns. So many just fall over and are gone for good because of rotten sills and the like. Our neighbors split in two during a storm a few years back because of rot caused by that same neighbor shooting his 22 through the roof when he was a boy. He never fixed it even after he inherited it, and parts of the roof and all of the sills rotted. Keep up the good work, and maybe get something between those posts and the concrete as others have suggested 🙂
I did not think that termites could live in such cold areas. Nice job.
Nice job!
The only thing you missed out on was a barrier between the post and the concrete. A square of membrane would do (you can use your jack trick to raise the beam next to the post 1/2" and slide the membrane in) when you get time ;0)
Even treated timber is at risk directly on concrete ... and it is endgrain too!
Yes. This. Sill seal is a cheap insurance.
Agreed. Cheap insurance.
Enjoyed watching your videos. Thanks for sharing with us.👍
You were reading my mind, I was thinking "wheelbarrow"! LOL Really nice barn!!! Worth the effort! My OCD is waiting for power washing! LOL Great project!
great job getting those posts in, it looks great
Nice. Surprised 2x12s in beam were not longer. Support alot of load above. Super nice 🐔 and 🐇. Does it have venting from basement to loft! Barns ate the hub of a homestead. Many older have cellars for food storage. Milking areas, butchering areas Interior grain and foliage stores self sustainable.
Great job! Might want to invest in a 5 gal can of termite spray and hit the barn with it. If you don't kill those buggers they will just continue to eat away.
Next time when you are laminating 2x12s together, may i recommend using long bolts and nuts. Expansion and contraction can work the nails out. I second the suggestion to put a metal post base before tapping the posts into place.
Looks good, bet it felt nice to walk in there without thinking you were going to bump your feet into the short wall. It is so much more spacious looking without it.
Hi..... Country View Acres, thank you for sharing your video homestead 👋 bye 👋 bye 👋 bye 👋 🎥👍👍👍
Job well done. It’s all safe now.
That looks so much better and safer.
I am looking forward to seeing livestock in the barn. Good luck and Godspeed!,🖖👌👏😜😝
Looks so much better without the blocks there good job barn should last a long time now
Looks great! really coming together nicely.
I love your videos I watch them everyday
Looks great!! I need to do a similar job on my carport, the cement blocks have settled and so the roof has bowed down some. I had the same issue with my wheel barrow tire always going flat between uses, until I had a tube put in the tire! No problems with it in years now!!! I did the same on older riding mower so going to pull those tires to put on current rider. One less nuisance!!!!!!
Great job!! I’m jealous of what you are doing. Best of luck!
Very nice job, cheers from Sweden.
Thanks Al. Hope you have a good day.
Buy a solid rubber tire for wheelbarrow. No more flats...well worth the money.
Looking good. Things are starting to come together for you.
Great video, love watching.
The barn is looking amazing!
It's all coming together.
Nice job ! 👍🤠
Outstanding job!!kudos!!
Friggin nice work dude!
Wow, looking good
Great job. I wish more barns were saved and restored. They look so much better, have more history and have more character than Morton buildings.
Nice job thanks for sharing.
Nails or hooks and small flat shelves on new wood uprights to hang. Ropes high cage, electrical CEO’s, and water hoses. Get every thing off floors
nice job I like when people utulise materials left over from other projects also some hardcore to go building some roads
Bottom Post should be anchor down so if hit they will not slide, good job!!
Run a string will tell if level front to back. I would have put post on top of something. Wood and Concrete is asking for rot
Nice job!
Seal the floor walls and posts in the area the chickens will live. Their poo chemistry will eat the materials they are in contact with and grow bacteria. sealing makes cleaning MUCH easier.
Would it not be better to support first, then remove and replace?
Wow, I agree. Being educated in mechanical engineering I was terrified watching him knock out the load bearing timbers and cmu blocks with just a single floor jack and 2 by lumber support. Not nearly enough wood, nails, glue, and bolts on that termite infested joint repair. I am glad he didn't get squished. Those filled cmu blocks serve an important part of the structure and distribute the load over the floor. A temporary beam should have been installed with several steel floor jack-post while working. Code requires the post be anchored to the floor to prevent them from moving if bumped. I am looking forward to more hair raising adventures!
I would be inclined to use timber framing style diagonal bracing on those new posts to support the header, personally.
That would have looked nice, but the posts are less than 7 feet tall. So I don't know if there is enough height to do that and not hit you head on the braces.
Just curious; why are you knocking out the cinder blocks at the floor? Wouldn't they make a good wall base for stalls/pens? And as to the chicken coop, were you planning to provide them with outside access, or just keep them under the protection of the barn?
I removed all the concrete blocks to have a blank slate to start from. I am not sure exactly what I am going to do, and I didn't want the block wall to determine how I laid things out. I may end up leaving an open area for livestock instead of making a lot of stalls. As for the chickens they will have access to the barnyard and pasture. Hopefully keeping them inside a fence safe from most predators.
@@CountryViewAcres Hay/bedding storage space for coop-rabbits-goats allotted for?
Bales of hay and straw will be stored on the level above. They can be thrown down to the lower level through an opening in the floor.
@@CountryViewAcres Wondering if the above space was going to be a shop area. Traditional barn moving forward :)
On first post I would took the bad wood part in between joist and replaced that with longer board in center and lag bolt together
I agree that would have been stronger. But I didn't want to pry the middle board out, while it was on the floor jack, I know there is a lot of weight sitting on the upper level. So I went with the conservative approach.
You need to run several bolts al the way thru the repair
Looks good though with a few improvements
Definitely would have put a barrier between concrete and wood even though its treated. Also would attach the post to floor and beam to prevent kick out from bumping and pressures from settling
In a later video I put a barrier under the posts.
Thanks for taking the time to make the video, looks much better. Did you secure the post to the floor? Are you worried about the post getting knocked out of place?
Right now it isn't secured to the floor. I will be looking for some brackets to secure it.
Question, If post on 3 rows up, on cinder block, up off floor was rotted, why put new post in contact with floor ?🤔
use a digtal lazer on the upper floor to check for level
This is great
How did you clean up the boards on the ceiling? Place looks brand new. Thumbs up
I didn't touch the ceiling. I guess it is high enough to stay some what clean.
that looks to me like a good place for a steel H Beam
Instead of saying 'no more' perhaps it would be better so say 'any more'?!?! Sounds better!
👍👍👍
Whole new meaning to a floor Jack lol
I am late to the viewing. My only question is how do you know if you have enough of a footing underneath the new posts? What if there is only a 4 inch concrete slab under there?
The other side of the walkway is already held up by posts. We are making the assumption that the concrete is the same thickness on both sides. This was probably built in the 1940's. I believe the concrete blocks were added later. So it was probably posts on both side originally. But that is just a guess.
you need some lag bolts to hold the joists from sagging
Why did you tear the blocks out ,they would have been a good start for pens ??
jackpost, in place of wood
the scabbed on board with little wimpy nails is almost pointless. the nails cannot possibly carry enough weight to support much of anything , an engineered lam beam would be a better option . at least you should use some strong lag bolts .
oh man, anther guy jaking with a long 2x6, i have seen a guy have a 2x8 spring out and sent him flying back wards into a cement wall. ended up in really bad shap in the hospital for over 3 months doing that very same thing, i was helpping him, and i told him use a dam 4x4 or bigger, but he insisted the 2x8 wouldnt go any were, soon as he started jacking i went out side, i wanted no part of that, thats like drawing back on a huge bow, worse the them man killing farm jack all jacks, thats tons of weight loading up on a thin board... a big no no, use minimum 4x4, i have lifted whole sides of a roof off to build a new walll that rotted out many times, and all ways use a 4x4 or a rail road tie..
You didn’t need a floor jack, you needed a rafter jack, ha ha.
Did you secure the posts to the beam and floor? What about any lateral movement or side to side in both directions?
the post is secure at the top but not the bottom. I plan on going back and installing brackets on the bottom of the post.
should have used a water barrier under the support beams
maybe I missed it but you did not nail your support beams to the header. would the beams not shift if it is bumped
The posts are nailed to the header. You must have missed it. You have to see it after the chicken coop and livestock stalls are built. Some walls are added and anchored to the floor as well.
Love our posts. I have an Idea for you making catching your chickens mutch easier and less stressfull as I was a broiler chicken farmer
Always take out termite tubes
"Scabbing" boards together is called "sistering".
Scabbing is not an altogether incorrect term but implies something temporary. Sistering is typicall when you add lumber along side existing floor or ceiling joists and secure the new wood to the old for strength and support, just as you did. Most often, but not always, it implies full length support lumber, like from wall to wall or from post to post. I like the way you assessed the problem, and I like the repair you made. Keep an eye on it but I suspect it will hold up for many, many years. Park the tractor loader bucket at the door so you can dump debris in it as closely to the source as possible, and to make it easier to carry off and dispose of. NEVER CARRY WHEN YOU CAN ROLL! Your back will thank you in years to come. Voice of experience.
I agree with Dave W that a barrier between the posts and floor would be advisable. I prefer the 6x6 x1/2" thick metal pcs designed to mount posts on. And they can be secured to the floor for added safety. Use you floor jack method as DW mentioned. But even a poly moisture barrier would be better than putting the posts on bare concrete, esp if you plan to hose out that section of barn occasionally.
why did you remove to concrete was it bad also,i would of just jack up that side and replaced the wood supports .js
I removed the concrete so I can spray out the barn when we clean it. Plus it will match the other side.
Wife was reading while I was watching this and by the music towards the end she thought I was watching a porn...hahaha
I hope I didn't get you in trouble with the wife. I hope she believed you, when you said it was you tube. I'll try to pick a better song next time... I just told my wife your comment. And she said, she thought I was watching porn when I was editing the video. So, it must sound like pretty cheesy music.
Country View Acres Hahaha! Great video otherwise. Love the channel as well. Keep doing what you’re doing.
I know I'm a little late to the show but use fix-a-flat on your wheel barrow tires. This will seal cracks.
the post should be attached to the floor.....else if you knock them they could fall over and roof collapse.
what did you do about the termites
Nothing, that damage was from many years ago. I will look the barn over for newer damage.
If you don't use steel you will be replacing them again, and again
I may go back and use post brackets. to get the posts off the concrete.
30.00 solid tire. do it
Yea, that's what I want to do.
I put a solid rubber tire on mine 10yrs ago, best wheelbarrow investment I ever made. Now it has rust holes in it, so no more concrete mixing in it, dang it. 😁
Use screws they don't come loose like nails.
yer going to have rat problems with feed and chicks about
Letting the new post hit the floor isn't that smart and unprofessional concidering they suck water
whats with all these usa people so into goats, when i started over 38 years ago i found one guy with goats in all my area, and picked up 2, well being i never had goats but read up on them alot, i thought it be nice to try, for one, the return on a goat is in the hole big time, 2nd they didntt last more then a few years until one morning i had hit my limit of them getting out and on the roof of the house all the time. i went back in side grabed my 30-06 andshot them all off the roof, they were just a money pit. very little milk, and hardly any meat, lots of work and feed in the winters as they wouldnt go though the 6 feet of snow, they eat more hay then my steers and cows.. want to see snow check me out
😂😂😂goats really are a pain in the a$$.
Nice job!