viewed a number of videos and yours was the best. No smartass buddies butting in and you are very thorough in the steps . I would like to know where you bought the replacement parts.
Thank you for the kind words. Napa is where I got the kit. They had the best price. There is a link in the description for the Part that will direct you to their website. Thanks again bud
The best explanation. Not a lot of unnecessary chit chat. Straight to the point. Best instruction of resistor and connector replacement by far. Thank you.!!!
Just had to do this to my 2008 Colorado, fan setting 2 burned out earlier this week and then 1 and 3 wouldn't work but 4 did, very simple video to follow and she's good to go now. Excellently done
Bro, you just hit it right on the spot, i watched several videos but they never explained what color goes where so i ended up same or worst, but with your video,right on the spot, thank you so much, NOW ITS WORKING TNX TO YOU😉👍
Than you for this video. It was one of many that helped me fix my HVAC motor problem. Turns out, my problem was the motor itself... My 2012 Canyon HVAC motor was intermittent, works one day, then not the next...one week just fine, next week dead. Finally, it just seemed to die. It's been doing this for a few months now. I went through all these online instructions with every possibility (harness, connectors, resistor, grounding, voltage, fuse, relay, etc.). But, I didn't find any burnouts or corrosion or grounding problems at all. I finally chose to check the voltage and ground continuity at the motor connector with a voltmeter. And, sure enough, it was also fine. (As I later figured out, I should have tested the voltage and ground at the motor connector FIRST, not last.) Well, the wiring tested just fine, so that meant my motor was the problem. Since it's too late on a Saturday to get to the dealership, I decided to crack open the motor myself. It's a bit tricky with the 3 plastic locking tabs (but, you can break these and the 3 screws will still hold it together just fine). Otherwise, just 5 screws and 2 nuts will get you into the motor housing. It turned out that my motor was filthy inside with a thick, sticky, brown dust! I blew it out then pulled the bushings aside and cleaned the armature contacts with alcohol. I reassembled the motor and plugged it in - WORKS PERFECTLY! So, the lesson is: 1 - Check power at the motor FIRST! 2 - If you have 12 volts (black lead) and ground continuity (orange lead) at the motor connector then you have a motor problem...Fix the motor. 3 - If, on the other hand, you don't have 12 volts or ground continuity at the motor connector THEN check the harness, connectors, grounding, resistor, etc... and 4 - If you can clean out your motor and it works afterward, you just saved $60-100.
2 years out of the TSB fix. Brilliant... Anyway, I really like your videos. They are precise and straight forward. I also appreciate that you give a tool rundown in the beginning. Your videos have really helped me out with my 04 Titan. Unfortunately I’m in the rust belt so the repairs don’t go so nice. Thank you!
haha Thanks for the kind words! i have a few titan videos coming later this week. my personal vehicle is an 04 titan as well. i love it. they are great trucks
I love mine as well. Its a king cab off road big tow le. Just turned 146K. Its got the infamous manifold crack so I hope that you have a header install video coming up!!
God bless your brother I really appreciate you taking the time to put out this video you’ve not only save my truck you have saved my sanity. The diagram you illustrated was simply genius because I had no idea that those lines were alphabetize in a certain order . Again God bless and thank you for saving me large amounts of money doled out to an electrician to fix or repair this problem.
had a question. Is it necessary to bolt the resistor back into place? This was the hardest part to replace because of its location. If I have to replace again, it would seem easier to not bolt it down unless there is a reason that I am unaware. By the way the video was perfect. It showed me exactly what to do.
I did this in July and it looks like I have to do it again now (11-21) not even 6 month later! I wonder if the motor is over drawing it, I don't have an amp gauge that could read it but this seems to be happening to a lot of folks.
Aaron Hines: I’ve also replaced one before. Seeing the wear on the resistor’s connector makes me wonder if applying an electrical paste to the connector pins would eliminate any arching to the pins from heating /cooling and preserve the contacts thus preventing further replacement in time?
Having this issue but the plastic is burned anywhere and it looks fine, would you recommend just replacing it anyway and hoping it is that and it works?
Hi, great video! You mentionned that it's the second time that this job as to be done on that truck. Same on mine. I did exactly what you show here last year, with the Doorman part, and it's burnt again. Do you have more info on why this keeps hapening? Some users mentionned it is a ground problem.... Any toughts and where that groud problem could be?
I have this issue currently. At the same time that I lost a few of the fan settings, I also lost the AC cooling. Does this issue have that effect, or do I have two cooccurring issues?
good vid, helpful, good info, had 2subscribe on that alone....... questions, y not use tye wrap or black tape to angle the connectors in one direction so it makes a better fit? 2nd, according to your exp. i have 03 blazer, having the same issue now. which should i go for first? pigtail, blower or resistor? 110k miles on it.......i tried cheap 20$ amazon resistor part last week, it worked for 3 mins then blower stopped, so now I am thinking was it the cheap part , or get a more exp. part or new blower? how can it be the piggytail if it worked for a while and shut off........right? how would you diagnose this? thanks!
Need some assistance! I have this same issue. Blower speed ‘4’ is the only one that works. However, I pulled out the cable and disconnected it from underneath the glove compartment. I did see it was burnt out a bit. I wanted to confirm this was the problem, so I turned the truck back on and turn the blower switch to ‘4’ and it still turned on. The rest of the speeds course didn’t. But why would the switch still work at ‘4’ if I disconnected the connector? I was going to replace the toggles themselves in the dashboard until I found this video. Now I don’t know what the problem is. Any help is great before I start tearing my truck apart!
Could it still be the resistor even if the harness connections aren’t burnt? A/C isn’t blowing but I can hear it kick on when I switch it to an on setting. Will try this and hope it’s not the motor itself
I have this problem on my Dakota I’ve done the same thing did I’ve replaced blower motors, resistors, and connectors and it still keeps burning out would hard wiring aka soldering the connector to the resistor help it any different
" Napa is where I got the kit." The link posted takes you to Amazon and a Dorman kit for $10.47....NAPA WANTS $75.87 Highest price in town...more than the Stealership. My complements on the Video. It worked perfect. For less than $11 it's worth the repair , hope it lasts....THUMBS UP.
@@AaronHinesAuto Very good video. I replaced the resistor and harness on my 2004 canyon and the blower is not working, do you have any idea how to fix this. Thank you
There’s a ground right next to the air filter and where its supposed to be grounded it’s painted so you have to take it off and I just scrapped away the paint with a knife so it grounds correctly
I replaced both the resistor and cable connector. Used same as video and color are in right position. Speed 2 does not work, all other speed fan 1 3 4 does work. Any ideas?
I did the exact same thing and it worked for only 1 week 🙄🙄🙄 heck i went and even replaced the blower motor and nothing I just wanna now replace the whole harness from the top but i dont know where to buy the whole harness
@@josslelibre555 so your solution to fix this ground problem so the buy a positive and ground bar new terminals wire a new fuse box and those grounds that are connected both sides cut it all off and put all wires on your ground bar problem solved
C H E C K GROND WIRES FIRST.. CHEVY, GOT IS WRONG... CLEAN THE PAINT BEHING THE BOLT, BEHIND THE AIR BOX, AND ALL THESE SPEED WILL WORK ,, AND YOU DO NOT HAVE TO REPLACE THE RESISTOR.... sTAN hawaii gROUND !!!!!!!!
viewed a number of videos and yours was the best. No smartass buddies butting in and you are very thorough in the steps . I would like to know where you bought the replacement parts.
Thank you for the kind words. Napa is where I got the kit. They had the best price. There is a link in the description for the Part that will direct you to their website. Thanks again bud
thanks for the quick info
He's also the only one to tell what socket size to use.
The best explanation. Not a lot of unnecessary chit chat. Straight to the point. Best instruction of resistor and connector replacement by far. Thank you.!!!
I totally agree!
Just had to do this to my 2008 Colorado, fan setting 2 burned out earlier this week and then 1 and 3 wouldn't work but 4 did, very simple video to follow and she's good to go now. Excellently done
Very easy and cheap to replace .Thanks for sharing the colors did the job in less then 30 min.
Short and to the point. I just bought a 2004 Canyon so I’m sure to be back for more tips.
Bro, you just hit it right on the spot, i watched several videos but they never explained what color goes where so i ended up same or worst, but with your video,right on the spot, thank you so much, NOW ITS WORKING TNX TO YOU😉👍
Out of all times this could happen its gotta be the winter lol. Thanks for the video, Helped me do this repair within 10 minutes.
Thanks Aaron it was easy once I watched your video
I add a succes to my list today. Thanks to you.
thanks for the clear concise info bought it today through your portal.
Thank you for this video, I was able to change mine out within 15 minutes. Thanks for the help bro
Than you for this video. It was one of many that helped me fix my HVAC motor problem. Turns out, my problem was the motor itself...
My 2012 Canyon HVAC motor was intermittent, works one day, then not the next...one week just fine, next week dead. Finally, it just seemed to die. It's been doing this for a few months now.
I went through all these online instructions with every possibility (harness, connectors, resistor, grounding, voltage, fuse, relay, etc.). But, I didn't find any burnouts or corrosion or grounding problems at all. I finally chose to check the voltage and ground continuity at the motor connector with a voltmeter. And, sure enough, it was also fine. (As I later figured out, I should have tested the voltage and ground at the motor connector FIRST, not last.)
Well, the wiring tested just fine, so that meant my motor was the problem. Since it's too late on a Saturday to get to the dealership, I decided to crack open the motor myself. It's a bit tricky with the 3 plastic locking tabs (but, you can break these and the 3 screws will still hold it together just fine). Otherwise, just 5 screws and 2 nuts will get you into the motor housing. It turned out that my motor was filthy inside with a thick, sticky, brown dust! I blew it out then pulled the bushings aside and cleaned the armature contacts with alcohol. I reassembled the motor and plugged it in - WORKS PERFECTLY!
So, the lesson is:
1 - Check power at the motor FIRST!
2 - If you have 12 volts (black lead) and ground continuity (orange lead) at the motor connector then you have a motor problem...Fix the motor.
3 - If, on the other hand, you don't have 12 volts or ground continuity at the motor connector THEN check the harness, connectors, grounding, resistor, etc...
and 4 - If you can clean out your motor and it works afterward, you just saved $60-100.
Thanks for the straightforward video.
Thank you boss. You're a champ!
Excellent demonstration
2 years out of the TSB fix. Brilliant... Anyway, I really like your videos. They are precise and straight forward. I also appreciate that you give a tool rundown in the beginning. Your videos have really helped me out with my 04 Titan. Unfortunately I’m in the rust belt so the repairs don’t go so nice. Thank you!
haha Thanks for the kind words! i have a few titan videos coming later this week. my personal vehicle is an 04 titan as well. i love it. they are great trucks
I love mine as well. Its a king cab off road big tow le. Just turned 146K. Its got the infamous manifold crack so I hope that you have a header install video coming up!!
God bless your brother I really appreciate you taking the time to put out this video you’ve not only save my truck you have saved my sanity. The diagram you illustrated was simply genius because I had no idea that those lines were alphabetize in a certain order .
Again God bless and thank you for saving me large amounts of money doled out to an electrician to fix or repair this problem.
Thank you for your help. Especially with the wiring diagram.
i watched viewed a number of videos and yours was the best. !!!
Awesome video buddy🤙
had a question. Is it necessary to bolt the resistor back into place? This was the hardest part to replace because of its location. If I have to replace again, it would seem easier to not bolt it down unless there is a reason that I am unaware. By the way the video was perfect. It showed me exactly what to do.
I did this in July and it looks like I have to do it again now (11-21) not even 6 month later! I wonder if the motor is over drawing it, I don't have an amp gauge that could read it but this seems to be happening to a lot of folks.
Aaron Hines:
I’ve also replaced one before. Seeing the wear on the resistor’s connector makes me wonder if applying an electrical paste to the connector pins would eliminate any arching to the pins from heating /cooling and preserve the contacts thus preventing further replacement in time?
Thanks for the video. It helped me today with my Sebring.
Aaron... thank you so much for this video.... you save us lots of money. Thank you👍🤙
Very helpful video!
Just wanted to drop a quick thanks!
Thank you for this video.
Great video. Very helpful. Thanks
Great video thanks for all the information👍👍
It's common issue due to the ground wire near the air filter is mounted on a painted surface and will continue to short the resistor if not fixed.
Good Info! Thank you for sharing
It worked!! Thank you!!!
Having this issue but the plastic is burned anywhere and it looks fine, would you recommend just replacing it anyway and hoping it is that and it works?
Hi, great video! You mentionned that it's the second time that this job as to be done on that truck. Same on mine. I did exactly what you show here last year, with the Doorman part, and it's burnt again. Do you have more info on why this keeps hapening? Some users mentionned it is a ground problem.... Any toughts and where that groud problem could be?
The ground problem is next to the air filter
great video! shop tried to charge me $330 for this exact job! all the parts on amazon were $50 DIY
I have this issue currently. At the same time that I lost a few of the fan settings, I also lost the AC cooling. Does this issue have that effect, or do I have two cooccurring issues?
best video. what woulda made it even better was after your thorough job well done, was that the fan didnt work on any settings.
good vid, helpful, good info, had 2subscribe on that alone....... questions, y not use tye wrap or black tape to angle the connectors in one direction so it makes a better fit? 2nd, according to your exp. i have 03 blazer, having the same issue now. which should i go for first? pigtail, blower or resistor? 110k miles on it.......i tried cheap 20$ amazon resistor part last week, it worked for 3 mins then blower stopped, so now I am thinking was it the cheap part , or get a more exp. part or new blower? how can it be the piggytail if it worked for a while and shut off........right? how would you diagnose this? thanks!
Need some assistance! I have this same issue. Blower speed ‘4’ is the only one that works. However, I pulled out the cable and disconnected it from underneath the glove compartment. I did see it was burnt out a bit. I wanted to confirm this was the problem, so I turned the truck back on and turn the blower switch to ‘4’ and it still turned on. The rest of the speeds course didn’t. But why would the switch still work at ‘4’ if I disconnected the connector? I was going to replace the toggles themselves in the dashboard until I found this video. Now I don’t know what the problem is. Any help is great before I start tearing my truck apart!
4 is directly wired. Not wired through the harness.
Awesome man thanks a bunch
Could it still be the resistor even if the harness connections aren’t burnt? A/C isn’t blowing but I can hear it kick on when I switch it to an on setting. Will try this and hope it’s not the motor itself
Man great, big thanks!! Gracias!!!!!
Ive done the new wires and resistor. Blower still doesn't work. Is there a video for replacing blower motor?
I have a question do I need to disconnect the battery to work on this job??? I wait your answer thank you ..
Husband could not get the screws out. Any suggestion. Thanks
What's the best way to get the back bolt off of the blower fan to replace the blower fan? With the position the back bolt is at
I have this problem on my Dakota I’ve done the same thing did I’ve replaced blower motors, resistors, and connectors and it still keeps burning out would hard wiring aka soldering the connector to the resistor help it any different
" Napa is where I got the kit." The link posted takes you to Amazon and a Dorman kit for $10.47....NAPA WANTS $75.87 Highest price in town...more than the Stealership. My complements on the Video. It worked perfect. For less than $11 it's worth the repair , hope it lasts....THUMBS UP.
That is the same kit I purchased from Napa. I’ll post Napa’s part number when I get to my computer at work
@@AaronHinesAuto
Very good video.
I replaced the resistor and harness on my 2004 canyon and the blower is not working, do you have any idea how to fix this.
Thank you
I've done this about 2 years ago and I'm about to have to do it again I guess it only last 2 years
Thank you very much !!!...
What if you replaced it and the new one burns up, too?
There’s a ground right next to the air filter and where its supposed to be grounded it’s painted so you have to take it off and I just scrapped away the paint with a knife so it grounds correctly
Does the battery need to be disconnected before starting this process?
Yes. Always disconnect battery when working with electronics components. 😀
Currently working nights and it’s still +90F, this just might keep me from sweating off a few pounds.
I just changed mine it was burnt but it still doesn’t work any other ideas what it could be?
looks like 29k people have had the same problem as me😂 thank you
I am looking for the blower motor ground on a 2006 chev Silverado. It,s not on left side along the fender
I replaced both the resistor and cable connector. Used same as video and color are in right position. Speed 2 does not work, all other speed fan 1 3 4 does work. Any ideas?
did you trow the freon first?
I did the exact same thing and it worked for only 1 week 🙄🙄🙄 heck i went and even replaced the blower motor and nothing
I just wanna now replace the whole harness from the top but i dont know where to buy the whole harness
Does Fixing This Issue Bring Cold Air Or Simply Air ?
just air movement
how to disconnect the wire harness connected to the blower motor?
you need remove the freon before change the blower??
Nope!
You told us what was A and B but never told us D and C for the color to the letter and I need to know that I can’t find it anywhere
could it be a bad switch to
So my problem is the heat don’t get hot. The blower motor works fine. This will not fix my problem
The real problem is the ground and that is why things get burnt
Yeah! I did this fix last year and the resistor connector is burnt again! Do you have more info on how we could fix that ground problem? Thank you
@@josslelibre555 so your solution to fix this ground problem so the buy a positive and ground bar new terminals wire a new fuse box and those grounds that are connected both sides cut it all off and put all wires on your ground bar problem solved
@@davidmartin5027 cool! Thanks man! I'll look into that for sure... I had other weird odd ball electrical problems... So that could fix it all up!
5.5 mm? I just used a 6?
then you broke it.
What if you lack critical thinking skills and you didn't remember which connections went to which wires? Asking for a friend obviously....
Damn I did all this and it still don’t work I guess it’s the blower itself
I'm having same problem. Guess blower motor and control switch is next.
C H E C K GROND WIRES FIRST.. CHEVY, GOT IS WRONG... CLEAN THE PAINT BEHING THE BOLT, BEHIND THE AIR BOX, AND ALL THESE SPEED WILL WORK ,, AND YOU DO NOT HAVE TO REPLACE THE RESISTOR.... sTAN hawaii gROUND !!!!!!!!
Why does Chevy make junk?
Great video, very helpful