@@TheSmokinApe Thing is ... when it comes to "little things" (I had to baby sit a DEWLine station because _nobody knew how it worked!)_ you don't want to get tripped up. It's a "do your shoelaces" sorta thing 🙂
Building toys is the best part of this hobby!!! I've started playing with my radio gear recently and realized how many antennas and other "things" I've made..lol!! Good stuff Ape!
I was using the 84 ft wire with a 16-17 ft counterpoise and a LDG auto tuner before I moved, worked great. I now have less space and must go to a shorter wire, maybe 41 ft. Great video with most everything you need to know about setting up one of these antennas.
With a 117 foot sloper and a 9:1 UNUN I get great performance on 160-6 meters! The wire goes from 10 feet at the edge of my roof to 50 feet in a tree. Using 125 feet of RG8X and a line isolator at the back of the transceiver; all bands are under 3:1, so the internal tuner gets me the entire HF spectrum! By the way; earth grounding on the antenna side of the line isolator produces a dramatic reduction in noise. W6PDL
Good job on both construction and a clear and concise explanation. I always install a CMC in addition to the one 8K-ohm choke that's permanently attached to the output of the rig as well as randomly placed, cheap EMI split beads (barrels) clipped on the coax feedline. When using ferrite cores split or not, use the proper size 31 mix core and the "turns-squared" advantage of 3-4 turns over a larger core versus a long string of snap on ferrites. 2-turns equals 4 beads. 3-turns equals 9 beads, etc... The other thing that causes a rise in SWR as frequency increases is leakage inductance and distributed capacitance of the windings as the turns approach a 1/4 wavelength. 73's AD6AE
Very good explanation. I have had great luck with 49:1 EFHW antennas, both bought and built, but the 9:1 I built has given me all kinds of problems getting it to resonate. This weekend I'm going to tear it apart and rebuild it from this video. 👍
Noticed 4,5,6 and 7 colors are reversed in the graphic, but then corrected in 8. 9 and 1 the critical ones. I'm using the 14 ga. enameled magnet wire so following the windings closely. Love the way you explain things, no hype and down to earth! Subscribed. 73
41' wire antenna and I think 17' counterpoise and I'm making DX contacts like crazy on 15 17 and 20m... FT8 and some FT4. Might make it permanent for the winter!
Good video Ape and while I was re-watching this video my wife came in with my with my order of wire and Toroids from JPM SUPPLY. Time for me to ge busy going to wind (2) 49/1 and (1) 9/1. JPM SUPPLY is very FAST, I ordered this on SATURDAY and here on Tuesday, that’s fast and THANKS for recommending them❗️👍 73 KV5P
I put up an EFRW with a 9:1 balun, and a ferrite chole on the shack end of the co-ax (13ft long). Works great on 40 & 20, first contact was 3,000+ miles with 3.5W SSB on 20! The antenna runs slightly down, with the end just 6ft from the ground. I use a usSDX+ and an ATU-100.
I've run both the 9:1 and 49:1 and both antennas worked very well....the 9:1 was much shorter which helped in my installation - however, I was constantly fighting RFI both in the house and my IC7300. And yes, I tried all the recommended fixes for RFI and none worked to my satisfaction!! The 49:1 EFHW has never caused RFI so it's the wire antenna I use. 73/K6SDW
9-1 and 71ft wire is what gets used at PJ7EE. So far, it's been good for up to 2600+ Qs in a dx contest. Easiest way to get set up andbonbthecair with an effective antenna. I use mine in a 30ft tall inverted L configuration. Best dx from PJ7 has been 4O, DU, and YB long path.
Great explanation into the unit that is a 9:1. A good antenna for /p where there is a need to be wary of EMF to those members of the public that may not be aware. I use my own with wire, vertical on a 10m f/glass pole.
I've always been a metal ham. Yagi's, beams, etc.. I just put up a 9:1 EFNR approx 180 feet long and 70 ft. of coax to unun from where I have 3-240/31 chokes. Inside the shack I have a 1:1 isolator. Almost zero rf in shack except on 18 and 21 Mhz when amp is on at 450 watts (I get rasp in my computer speakers) End result:
Thanks, buddy. I did this with 14 gauge solid copper core. Bit of a job on my fingers to wind, especially since they are still healing from sharpening my axes. But anyway, I think it turned out real nice. Cheers.
Your method of feeding the wire through helped a lot. It was firm enough that the loop it formed gave good leverage to also tighten the wind while pulling it through. 👍
I wish I had a dollar for each time some sad ham told me "You can't use that. It won't work. You should know better as an extra class ham, blah blah and blah." I have a 9:1 Unun End Fed Random Wire antenna as my permanent antenna and it works great. I also made a point of using mainly components that I was told wouldn't work. With this antenna, I've reached Hungary from Northern California, which is 6,100 miles. The only adjustments I've made have been getting the antenna higher up and positioning the counterpoise. This was a really informative video! I always have problems with the order in which the wires are connected coming off of the toroid (I suspect I would have done better if I was wearing those magical "splaining" glasses). This video cleared things up. Thanks again...73...KN6KNB
@@mandytuning I use a 64 foot wire about 30 feet up from the ground, and a 9:1 Unun. I'm half way up a hillside but have a lots of trees around. I recently did Northern California to Cape Town South Africa, which is 10,000 miles. I spent half a year repositioning the wire's orientation and angle until I got the most varied and strongest signal reports. I suspect dumb luck factored in as well. It should also be noted that I was able to make contacts during times when the 10-meter band's propagation was perfect. I've worked the Hungary contact 5 or so times.
Thanks! A great low cost multi-band stealth antenna! I have a 71' sloper with 9:1 unun, 50' RG8x, & common mode choke at my XPA125B amp. No tuner needed on 20, 17, 15, 12, 10. Can use the XPA125B's internal tuner for 160, 80/75, 60, 40, 30. I fortunately get SWR of 1:6 to 1 or less on all HF bands. Have made SSB DX contacts from California to Europe, Caribbean, Asia on 40, 20, 17 SSB, & get 5/9 reports on 80, 40 SSB nets. Nope, NOT a hex beam, Yagi or multi wavelength loop, but still gives lots of QRP & 100 watt thrills!
Did you ever do a follow up video with the antenna set up ? Ive scrolled through but cant find one or am i being blind 😆 ... I havent had my radio out for 10 years (life gets in the way as it does) and im very restricted in space to what i used to be so looking at building one of these ...Great video btw very informative and easy to follow .
I built a couple of these a few years ago. They are my go to antenna for POTA. I use a random length counterpoise and no common mode choke. Btw, the choke IS an unun, but a different build for common mode. I do not understand how this antenna generates RFI tho. POTA on and thanks for the video. WB2SMK
I would Never PUT A LINE ISOLATOR AT THE ANTENNA SIDE. 1. It will effect your SWR and 2. Any interference picked up on the co-ax will feed direct to the TX. After decades of trying various lengths and configurations I found that a 10.14 Meter wire and 9:1 using the co-ax as a counterpoise around 10m at least of RG213 will perform well from 40 to 6m (if ATU goes above 30Mhz) The Isolator should be before the ATU. Best configurations are horizontal or L config. A word on toroid rings, a 140 may be fine for 100w CW or SSB but is not suitable for say FT8 above 25w, many commercial antenna unun's state that these are not suitable for constant power data modes. In that case up to 100w a 240/43 9.1 with PTFE wire is required at least. On the home brew Line Isolator use the same 240/43 with RG214 Coax Cable Double Shielded.
With an end fed you put the line choke a 1/4 wave from the unun input. Now the 1/4 wave will act like a counterpoise. The antenna is not balanced so a balun may over heat and fail. For balanced loads or verticals, place the line choke at the input to the Unun to suppress common mode currents. A quick check for common mode current is if you change the length of the co-ax and your SWR changes significantly, you need an isolator, a 1:1 balun or a coax line choke
Ape! You are tinkererier than me lol. I went to that torrid website, so cool! After building your cahrtenna I went back and checked my first two Amazon ballun kits and they weren't even soldered! I guess I thought the magwire would conduct just on contact! How wrong I was! Now I have a WORKING 9:1!
I mount my pl-239 on the inside and make sure the big hole is bigger so the collar of coax connector will fit in the hole. I get better connections with the crimp on lugs.
At first I drill the hole to a tight fit, then I just drill the screw holes through the flange holes and drop the screws in as I go then drill the main hole bigger afterwards so everything still fits and is centered. the only time I have had a problem is if i have a tight fit in a small box and need that extra 1/8" of space to fit everything in.
Hi My 130 foot, 80-10(my antennas), 49-1 efhw works great. I made and hooked up multiple counterpoises to the ground rod, making 80 work very well and 160, yes 160 work decently! But, My antennas sells a 173 and a 202 foot efhw with a 9-1. Would the extra length improve my bands? Especially 80 n 160?
Very nice. I used the same design with a single FT240-43 ferrite, and on the VNA, the SWR is already 1.5 at 14MHz and rises higher quite quickly with frequency. I believe it should stay lower SWR up to 30MHz like yours does. My similar looking 4:1 balun does this fine. Any suggestions ?
@@TheSmokinApe I should have said I had a 450 ohm resistor connectted to the unun 9:1 port and was measuring the 50 ohm port with a nano vna. At 14MHz you get an swr of 1.13. My balun is giving 1.5. In the meantime I built another unun with taps at 4, 9 and 16:1 and this also exhibits a higher swr into the correct resistive load than your unun. I am using FT240-43 ferrite and 18awg single core copper wire. I ordered different 1% metal film resistors to check if that is the cause of the difference.
Next trick in the book to fit the very small eye crimp connector: drive the point of a scratch awl from the eye side through the crimp wings to separate them enough to insert the wire.
Great video - thanks! I just got my General and I bought a xeigu g90 - I'm going to build this antenna this weekend - does it matter which diameter toroid I use?
Hi nice video, I built a similar set-up a while ago but with very thin SOTABEAMS Wire, at 52 feet, it's in a SLOPER setup, it works quite well but sometimes I struggle at my legal limit of 10 watts, but it's quite a stealth antenna,
Using the red crimper dies on a blue terminal won't crimp it tight enough. Adding solder is compensation, but where the hot solder doesn't fill, it's too loose. You're also using the insulated crimper die on uninsulated terminals. There is a different die set for uninsulated terminals that you should be using.
Great video! I am planning one of these now after watching your build. By way of comparison, would you be able to also show the difference in changing the antenna side to one of the longer wires maybe a 107/119? Keep up the great vids!
Hey JT, glad you liked the video and thanks for watching. You should be fine if you stick to one of the recommended lengths; the long you go the better for the low end bands.
Hi Ape, just tried surfing over to Ham Radio Prep using your link under "more." (after watching your "DIY 9:1 Unun End Fed Random Wire Antenna for Ham Radio") It threw an "error" and wouldn't let me get there. They may have changed their link. Thought I would let you know so you can get the link fixed and subsequently get credit for any sign-ups. Cheers, Tom
What kind of Toroid would I want for a 160M antenna? (you mentioned the numbers). Later in the video you mentioned wire lengths. So, if I understand correctly, for 1.9MHz I would want to stay in the middle between 246 ft and 493 ft which would give me something like 369.5 ft. Is that correct? (thats an awful long wire).
Smoke - really good EFRW build presentation here. Thank you. I think that I am getting smarter (?) about understanding EFRW and EFHF wave antenna designs, but one question sticks out - why do we use a wound toroid with a capacitor (an LC?) for an EFHW, but only a wound toroid (no capacitor) for a EFRW?
It has to do with additional capacitance on the high harmonics of the EFHW, here is a link where I talk about it in more detail: ruclips.net/video/QtIqJ60KhoY/видео.html
In my humble opinion, the better solution is to use a wire that you resonate on the lowest F band of interest and use it with a multi-tap UNUN for a multi-band, no tuner needed solution :)
So when you say the wire is cut at 41', is that the distance from the strain relief to the isolator/dog bone? I'm assuming it doesn't include what you loop back, but figured I would ask.
Any reason, instead of fighting the wires and the short leads and soldering the two wires together BEFORE making a single connection to the SO-239, to not just put a small lug on EACH of those wires and connecting them to two different bolts on the SO-239? End result would be the same, yes?
that is called tri feller wound . also for more power 2 cours needed and larger PTFE wire. it takes heat better than MAG wire. them dog bone insulators as also used in electric fence in farm use. so Tractor supply company has them. some times you get lucky on some bands and need no tuner. but multi band use keep a tuner on hand. 73's
@@TheSmokinApe My DX commander DX 10 and DX 50 wire on the way. My M & P POTAFLEX 7 on the way. just made to to customs today. I did find that M & P makes a great antenna wire. found it on web page . next order. I have a 9:1 with small core and MAG wire. had the MAG wire arc on FT 8 @ 40 watt. lost all RX . found burn mark on wire after un wrapping. PTFE wire better on voltage. I just wound a 64:1 with 2- T 240-43 cores with #12 PTFE wire. need bigger box. used #16 PTFE on T-240-43 for 49:1 . did not do cross over. better for QRO wrap that way. in a box like you used. all done except antenna wire and counter poise. with ICOM 7300 with 9:1 put tuned in emergency mode. drop power 50% or less. i used 40%. will tune over 3:1 . this is in the CD manual for the ICOM . many do not know this with 7300 . read the big manual I say. if you wind a 9:1 this can be 1:1 with move around how wires jump together and also makes a DC ground on center dipole to reduce static build up . the outher way to wind 1:1 . 73's
So, I wasn't able to [easily] locate where you actually tested the end-fed as a follow up to this video at least not from the titles. Could you please provide either the link here or respond if you decided not to do a follow up video. I've very closely paralleled your steps in building end-fed antennas w/o being aware of your build! End-fed antennas are my favorite portable go to.
Awesome! New to Ham and I'm going to build this as my first antenna. I do have one question about the Remington wire. Is that a specific wire? I'm seeing all sorts of wire on the website and just wondering which one I need.
Totally unrelated to what you're talking about, I have an issue with an old ZS6BKW wire antenna that never really worked that well and the ladder- line broke away from the balun last year, after some seriously strong winds here. It is set up as an Inverted Vee and I want to remove the balun so that I can have RG-213 as the transmission line into my shack. Should I just dump the whole antenna or can I at least use the element wires as a dipole? Because of the size of my property, I can't fit anything larger than this antenna to get any decent directionality. I do however have an MFJ tuner, if that is any help at all. What are your thoughts on this?, I'd really like to get back on HF if I could. Sorry to lay a question like this on you with next to no information. 73, Mike, ZL3XD
Hey Mike, I'd keep the element wire and the window line and build a new antenna. That ZS6BKW is a big antenna so you probably have the materials to make something else.
You mentioned the antenna wire length. Does that length include the strain relief at the start and the tuning length at the end or did you add extra for those lengths?
Nice talk. _(You ground-pounder? jar-head?)_ Not too long, not too short! I've been QRT for OMG 2.5 decades (was "pro" early 1970s; 1973 licensed) and am really thinking about it.
Maybe snip/slap and add to have a more theory-oriented of this with much (much!) less time on construction basics? (Winding the toroid is a must. Decades on the air and never ever done even one!) p.s. *_(Wire type_*_ for long antennas is a great topic!)_ _73_ *--VE6IU*
Well I tell you what, we got a little sideways going round the bend and then I don’t know what. That build was just a going and the a little more fore we got through it and then next thing you know it was over before we started I tell you what. Thanks for watching!
@@TheSmokinApe *_Hey there you!_* I screen recorded the 2 parts of toroid winding, gonna trim them down _("Tell'em what yuhr gonna tell'em; tell'em; tell'em what you told'em.)_ splice/giggle, upload to my account. For you to discard / diss / mock / use ... next round's on you. ^5
Thank you I've been a Technician only for many years ever since the no code change. However recently I have found so much interest in the HF bands and QRP projects. I just picked up a used G90 and hope to take the GENERAL Lic very soon and open the door to HF. Your video was awesome and can't wait to build one myself. Does anyone here have the answer to this: LDG shows no counterpoise on the 9:1 unun I will be using a 100' RG8X to the unun. Planned on no counterpoise with Ferrite Beads at transceiver to avoid possible rf return. Transmit is at 20W max. Or do I need a 1:1 Balun choke? Any info would be great. THANKS again for this great video!!!
Hey USA P! Good luck on the test. Many companies who make 9:1 antennas claim you don’t need a counterpoise, they rely on the coax shield to act as the counterpoise. While this would work, it’s not optimal or ideal. You r beads would reduce the RF from coming back into the radio but I would encourage you to add a balun / choke at the antenna feed point and use a counterpoise if possible.
I seriously enjoyed this video and look forward to the test results and impedance measurements. I am seeing so many use small company commercial versions without a counterpoise and would like to see the performance differences as I am still confused on this, Dave- KU9L
Question: if you are using the coax shield as the counterpoise as many home stations might, is it counterproductive to install a choke at the antenna feed point? I currently am using a choke before the coax enters my shake and I seem to be having some good results with that. It seems like I have had some trouble tuning the random wire if there is a choke at the antenna feed point AND I am using the coax shield as the counterpoise.
Hey JoAnn. If you choke at the antenna feed point you do impact the ability to use the coax as a counterpoise. You should at a minimum choke and the shack if not at the feed point. Personally I want to use the coax as transmission line only, and a counterpoise as the counterpoise. But there are a ton of opinions on the matter, best of luck 👍
Hi, I'm using a clamp on ferrite core at my feed point which is indoors, and 25 feet of the coax is wound as an ugly balun choke. I'm not using a counterpoise, but also using an MFJ Artificial ground with about 16 feet of wire as an earth.
How do you lay out the counterpoise? Opposite direction of the antenna wire? Directly under the antenna wire? And wouldn't work better with a series of radials?
I try to lay the poise the opposite direction. The counter poise is used to work against the AC current in the element, AC is equal and opposite flow. Typically we use a ground plane of radials to couple the antenna system to the ground and reduce the amount of RF reflected and not absorbed by the Earth.
@@TheSmokinApe You need a good RF ground to reflect the signal so the signal will launch. Otherwise, the earth surface will absorb the signal, rendering the antenna system ineffective. I put together the 9:1 unun per your video - which is well done, by the way. I strung up 71 feet of 18 gauge insulated wire and laid down a 25 ft counterpoise to the left of the antenna. A sweep showed low SWR across all ham bands with 17 meters at full resonance. There's less than 6 ft of RG-58 coax from the tuner in my shack to the feed point of the antenna. I made some contacts on 40, 20 and 17. Signal reports were 559, 549. I added another 25' counterpoise fanned out 6 to 7 feet from the first counterpoise which slightly raised the SWR on those 3 bands after tuning (which I expected) and my signal reports came back at 579 to 599. Is this a coincidence or is this something to consider for permanent installation?
@@TheSmokinApe I laid out a 33 ft counterpoise in the opposite direction and got great signal reports on 80 through 15. No activity on 12 or 10. But the antenna tunes great. Thanks for you video and your help.
I built this UNUN based on your video, but the ground and hot are shorted. I looked at your diagram and I can see it there as well. Is this supposed to be shorted?
Got my IC-718 yesterday. Got all the parts I need for this except the feed line choke. So close to getting on HF. Question, is there anything I can do to substitute for the choke you use at the feed point? Thanks Ape, I watch all your videos over most for info!
Hey Kevin. No choke, look at grounding options or at a minimum a counterpoise…. Try 17’ for starters. I have a video on DIY choke baluns you might want to check. Good luck with the project 👍
I made a EFHW for 40-10. Does a EFRW have anything better than my EFHW? I get 4 bands with out tuner, and can get others with my tuner. I can even tune 80 with an external tuner.
@@TheSmokinApe With just about 66 feet I have 4 bands without a tuner. And other bands with a tuner. My understanding is that a tuner is needed for EFRW antenna for all bands. I am new so if I am wrong let me know. 73 W4DES
One more question, please? Can I use a FT140-43 toroid core instead of a ft240-43 core? Do I only sacrifice a bit of power handling capability, or is there another reason?
A 9:1 or a 16:1 should both work really well, if using stranded wire stay away from 26.0-27Mhz as that is the resonant frequency of the Chlorine Atoms in PVC.
How many wraps did you do? Maybe I missed that but isn’t it important? 9 wraps. Got it. You showed it later in the video. So 9:1 requires 9 wraps? Does that always correlate? So 4:1 would require 4 wraps etc?
So the number of wraps is important but its a ratio between the primary and secondary windings. In this case 9 primary, and 27 secondary. 27 / 9 = 3. the square of 3 is 9 so that's how you get to 9:1.
@@TheSmokinApesorry, I’m missing something. Rewatching. what secondary winding with 27 windings? I see you wrapped a single toroid with 3 wires and 9 windings. There’s no second “secondary” core which is what I’d expect when in the the context of a primary and a secondary winding.
Stranded wire would have more aggregate surface area, and we all know about skin-effect, so I would suggest that stranded wire of the same gauge would be better.
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VO1LQ; 1973; ComRsch; CFS Gander
_/me busts a gut_
I'm glad to know I'm not the only one to strip the plastic insulators off wire terminals.
It is the way
@@TheSmokinApe Thing is ... when it comes to "little things" (I had to baby sit a DEWLine station because _nobody knew how it worked!)_ you don't want to get tripped up.
It's a "do your shoelaces" sorta thing 🙂
I'm looking to do this project soon. Gonna have to watch this vid a few more times and read all the comments before I sit down to make it.
It’s a fun project, good luck with it 👍
The BEST DIY antenna video I have come across. Thanks for taking the time to explain what many just take for granted
Thanks BD, glad you liked it 👍
Building toys is the best part of this hobby!!! I've started playing with my radio gear recently and realized how many antennas and other "things" I've made..lol!! Good stuff Ape!
Totally agree, thanks for stopping by Ron 👍
I was using the 84 ft wire with a 16-17 ft counterpoise and a LDG auto tuner before I moved, worked great. I now have less space and must go to a shorter wire, maybe 41 ft. Great video with most everything you need to know about setting up one of these antennas.
Hey Michael, that’s what I like so much about these antennas… the versatility. Thanks for watching and I’m glad you liked it 👍
Thanks Ape. I'm sitting down with this video this morning with a big cup of coffee and getting everything sorted out.
That’s awesome Paul, good luck with the project 👍
I'm impressed by how easily your're able to get the wing nuts on without them wanting to cross-thread like always happens to me.
I guess I am a pro! Thanks for watching Jay
buy better quality hardware
With a 117 foot sloper and a 9:1 UNUN I get great performance on 160-6 meters! The wire goes from 10 feet at the edge of my roof to 50 feet in a tree. Using 125 feet of RG8X and a line isolator at the back of the transceiver; all bands are under 3:1, so the internal tuner gets me the entire HF spectrum!
By the way; earth grounding on the antenna side of the line isolator produces a dramatic reduction in noise.
W6PDL
Hey Dale, that’s awesome you are having such luck with it 👍
I have about 50 feet so hope for local on 80m, decent reach on 40m and Who Knows otherwise!
p.s. I have never once used an antenna tuner. No idea ...
Good job on both construction and a clear and concise explanation. I always install a CMC in addition to the one 8K-ohm choke that's permanently attached to the output of the rig as well as randomly placed, cheap EMI split beads (barrels) clipped on the coax feedline. When using ferrite cores split or not, use the proper size 31 mix core and the "turns-squared" advantage of 3-4 turns over a larger core versus a long string of snap on ferrites. 2-turns equals 4 beads. 3-turns equals 9 beads, etc... The other thing that causes a rise in SWR as frequency increases is leakage inductance and distributed capacitance of the windings as the turns approach a 1/4 wavelength. 73's AD6AE
Thanks for the info OB. I have used beads in the past but do prefer the toe-roids 👍
Your soldering iron heats up the connection WAY faster than mine! lol (that same music plays while I solder, though)... Thanks for the lesson!
Thanks for checking it out Spencer 👍
Crimping ain't easy! Thanks for the great information Ape 👍👍
Glad you liked it W6IWN 👍
I’m very new to this past time and found this video stimulating and very helpful, many thanks
Glad you liked it and thank you for watching 👍
Very good explanation. I have had great luck with 49:1 EFHW antennas, both bought and built, but the 9:1 I built has given me all kinds of problems getting it to resonate. This weekend I'm going to tear it apart and rebuild it from this video. 👍
Good luck Doug, I hope you get it sorted out.
What was the issue?
Probably he found that 9:1 unun are not for resonant antennas, need a tuner on most bands.
Noticed 4,5,6 and 7 colors are reversed in the graphic, but then corrected in 8. 9 and 1 the critical ones. I'm using the 14 ga. enameled magnet wire so following the windings closely. Love the way you explain things, no hype and down to earth! Subscribed. 73
Thanks AuSnuff, glad you liked it!
Great information. I saw what you did there at 10:40, LOL
Lol, thanks George! Glad it was helpful…
I built this today with a 3d printed PETG case... works great!
Awesome man 👍
41' wire antenna and I think 17' counterpoise and I'm making DX contacts like crazy on 15 17 and 20m... FT8 and some FT4. Might make it permanent for the winter!
@@hazer72 glad it’s working so well for you 👍
Good video Ape and while I was re-watching this video my wife came in with my with my order of wire and Toroids from JPM SUPPLY. Time for me to ge busy going to wind (2) 49/1 and (1) 9/1. JPM SUPPLY is very FAST, I ordered this on SATURDAY and here on Tuesday, that’s fast and THANKS for recommending them❗️👍 73 KV5P
Hey Mike. JPM is great, good luck with the builds 👍
Excellent, I've been thinking of building one of these for quite some time.
Hopefully the video is helpful 👍
I put up an EFRW with a 9:1 balun, and a ferrite chole on the shack end of the co-ax (13ft long). Works great on 40 & 20, first contact was 3,000+ miles with 3.5W SSB on 20! The antenna runs slightly down, with the end just 6ft from the ground. I use a usSDX+ and an ATU-100.
Sounds like an awesome setup, thanks for the comment bro 👍
I've run both the 9:1 and 49:1 and both antennas worked very well....the 9:1 was much shorter which helped in my installation - however, I was constantly fighting RFI both in the house and my IC7300. And yes, I tried all the recommended fixes for RFI and none worked to my satisfaction!! The 49:1 EFHW has never caused RFI so it's the wire antenna I use. 73/K6SDW
the 9:1's are more noisy, the 49:1 is my daily antenna as well 👍
9-1 and 71ft wire is what gets used at PJ7EE. So far, it's been good for up to 2600+ Qs in a dx contest. Easiest way to get set up andbonbthecair with an effective antenna. I use mine in a 30ft tall inverted L configuration. Best dx from PJ7 has been 4O, DU, and YB long path.
Should have signed last post, sri....73, kc9ee
That’s awesome 👍
Thanks for providing excellent tutorial on random wire and 9:1 build. By the way, I can't find the follow-up. Testing your 9:1 and the random antenna.
I Love The Experimental Mindset. Just LOVE IT !
Thanks FW, I appreciate the comment!
Yeah. I'm using one now and it lit up my random wire. 👏
Nice, I love the random wire antennas.
Great explanation into the unit that is a 9:1. A good antenna for /p where there is a need to be wary of EMF to those members of the public that may not be aware. I use my own with wire, vertical on a 10m f/glass pole.
Thanks for checking it out Gary 👍
Благодарю за подробную инструкцию. Ты единственный хорошо всё объяснил и показал. Другие не показывают как правильно соединить провода.
Thank you, glad you liked the video 👍
Very good ,well explained 😊
Glad you liked it 👍
I've always been a metal ham. Yagi's, beams, etc.. I just put up a 9:1 EFNR approx 180 feet long and 70 ft. of coax to unun from where I have 3-240/31 chokes. Inside the shack I have a 1:1 isolator. Almost zero rf in shack except on 18 and 21 Mhz when amp is on at 450 watts (I get rasp in my computer speakers)
End result:
Hey Dave. 180 feet, that a monster for sure. Glad to hear it's working for you and thanks for watching 👍
Thanks, buddy. I did this with 14 gauge solid copper core. Bit of a job on my fingers to wind, especially since they are still healing from sharpening my axes. But anyway, I think it turned out real nice. Cheers.
Oh man, 14g is no walk in the park 😳
Your method of feeding the wire through helped a lot. It was firm enough that the loop it formed gave good leverage to also tighten the wind while pulling it through. 👍
Glad it was helpful 👍
“Box of these nuts” got me.😂😂
Thanks for watching Scott 👍
Thanks for the video. About to build one. Did you ever make a video of the final product mounted and tested?
I have not, but I use it often... just did a few weeks ago and I an very happy with it to this day.
@@TheSmokinApe Thanks for all the information and great videos
I wish I had a dollar for each time some sad ham told me "You can't use that. It won't work. You should know better as an extra class ham, blah blah and blah." I have a 9:1 Unun End Fed Random Wire antenna as my permanent antenna and it works great. I also made a point of using mainly components that I was told wouldn't work. With this antenna, I've reached Hungary from Northern California, which is 6,100 miles. The only adjustments I've made have been getting the antenna higher up and positioning the counterpoise. This was a really informative video! I always have problems with the order in which the wires are connected coming off of the toroid (I suspect I would have done better if I was wearing those magical "splaining" glasses). This video cleared things up. Thanks again...73...KN6KNB
Hey Hugh, I guess they read that on the internet somewhere... couldn't be further from the truth.
What length? The most i have done is 5700miles with 50ft 9:1 and 20watts on 10m band.
@@mandytuning I use a 64 foot wire about 30 feet up from the ground, and a 9:1 Unun. I'm half way up a hillside but have a lots of trees around. I recently did Northern California to Cape Town South Africa, which is 10,000 miles. I spent half a year repositioning the wire's orientation and angle until I got the most varied and strongest signal reports. I suspect dumb luck factored in as well. It should also be noted that I was able to make contacts during times when the 10-meter band's propagation was perfect. I've worked the Hungary contact 5 or so times.
Thank you of great video, very good content and structure. Question: Did you release video of measuring and using this antenna?
Hey Ponz. I have used it quite a bit and it works well but I don’t think I’ve done any videos showing that 👍
These are great, but when are you going to post part two set-up tune and test? been looking but haven't found it. :-)
I can do something, it's my current antenna 👍
Just curious have you done part 2?
Thanks! A great low cost multi-band stealth antenna! I have a 71' sloper with 9:1 unun, 50' RG8x, & common mode choke at my XPA125B amp. No tuner needed on 20, 17, 15, 12, 10. Can use the XPA125B's internal tuner for 160, 80/75, 60, 40, 30. I fortunately get SWR of 1:6 to 1 or less on all HF bands. Have made SSB DX contacts from California to Europe, Caribbean, Asia on 40, 20, 17 SSB, & get 5/9 reports on 80, 40 SSB nets. Nope, NOT a hex beam, Yagi or multi wavelength loop, but still gives lots of QRP & 100 watt thrills!
Thats awesome, thanks for sharing Jon 👍
Did you ever do a follow up video with the antenna set up ? Ive scrolled through but cant find one or am i being blind 😆 ... I havent had my radio out for 10 years (life gets in the way as it does) and im very restricted in space to what i used to be so looking at building one of these ...Great video btw very informative and easy to follow .
No video but I have used the antenna many times with success 👍
I built a couple of these a few years ago. They are my go to antenna for POTA. I use a random length counterpoise and no common mode choke. Btw, the choke IS an unun, but a different build for common mode. I do not understand how this antenna generates RFI tho. POTA on and thanks for the video. WB2SMK
I do like these types of antennas, the CMC is a result of the antenna being unbalanced 👍
Awesome video
Thanks Mark 👍
Excellent much appreciated
Thanks Trig, glad you liked it 👍
I love the ptfe wire. I have a triple core I run 450 Watts no problem ssb
That PTFE is great stuff 👍
I would Never PUT A LINE ISOLATOR AT THE ANTENNA SIDE. 1. It will effect your SWR and 2. Any interference picked up on the co-ax will feed direct to the TX. After decades of trying various lengths and configurations I found that a 10.14 Meter wire and 9:1 using the co-ax as a counterpoise around 10m at least of RG213 will perform well from 40 to 6m (if ATU goes above 30Mhz) The Isolator should be before the ATU. Best configurations are horizontal or L config. A word on toroid rings, a 140 may be fine for 100w CW or SSB but is not suitable for say FT8 above 25w, many commercial antenna unun's state that these are not suitable for constant power data modes. In that case up to 100w a 240/43 9.1 with PTFE wire is required at least. On the home brew Line Isolator use the same 240/43 with RG214 Coax Cable Double Shielded.
Also interested in one good for 80m. I need a good multiband antenna for Hermes Lite 2 SDR transceiver!
With an end fed you put the line choke a 1/4 wave from the unun input. Now the 1/4 wave will act like a counterpoise. The antenna is not balanced so a balun may over heat and fail. For balanced loads or verticals, place the line choke at the input to the Unun to suppress common mode currents.
A quick check for common mode current is if you change the length of the co-ax and your SWR changes significantly, you need an isolator, a 1:1 balun or a coax line choke
Ape! You are tinkererier than me lol. I went to that torrid website, so cool! After building your cahrtenna I went back and checked my first two Amazon ballun kits and they weren't even soldered! I guess I thought the magwire would conduct just on contact! How wrong I was! Now I have a WORKING 9:1!
Lol, that’s awesome you got it working 👍
Excellent! Thank you!
Thanks!
I mount my pl-239 on the inside and make sure the big hole is bigger so the collar of coax connector will fit in the hole. I get better connections with the crimp on lugs.
That's a good idea, thanks Bruce 👍
At first I drill the hole to a tight fit, then I just drill the screw holes through the flange holes and drop the screws in as I go then drill the main hole bigger afterwards so everything still fits and is centered. the only time I have had a problem is if i have a tight fit in a small box and need that extra 1/8" of space to fit everything in.
10:41 "I keep a box of Deez Nuts" lol
Never know when you might need them
You beat me to it...
Hi
My 130 foot, 80-10(my antennas), 49-1 efhw works great. I made and hooked up multiple counterpoises to the ground rod, making 80 work very well and 160, yes 160 work decently!
But, My antennas sells a 173 and a 202 foot efhw with a 9-1.
Would the extra length improve my bands? Especially 80 n 160?
Very nice. I used the same design with a single FT240-43 ferrite, and on the VNA, the SWR is already 1.5 at 14MHz and rises higher quite quickly with frequency. I believe it should stay lower SWR up to 30MHz like yours does. My similar looking 4:1 balun does this fine. Any suggestions ?
The 9:1 needs to be used with a tuner, because of this the SWR is all over the place 👍
@@TheSmokinApe I should have said I had a 450 ohm resistor connectted to the unun 9:1 port and was measuring the 50 ohm port with a nano vna. At 14MHz you get an swr of 1.13. My balun is giving 1.5. In the meantime I built another unun with taps at 4, 9 and 16:1 and this also exhibits a higher swr into the correct resistive load than your unun. I am using FT240-43 ferrite and 18awg single core copper wire. I ordered different 1% metal film resistors to check if that is the cause of the difference.
It could be the case, good luck with the low loss resistors
Next trick in the book to fit the very small eye crimp connector: drive the point of a scratch awl from the eye side through the crimp wings to separate them enough to insert the wire.
I like that idea 👍
Great video - thanks! I just got my General and I bought a xeigu g90 - I'm going to build this antenna this weekend - does it matter which diameter toroid I use?
I'd use at least 140.
Hi nice video, I built a similar set-up a while ago but with very thin SOTABEAMS Wire, at 52 feet, it's in a SLOPER setup, it works quite well but sometimes I struggle at my legal limit of 10 watts, but it's quite a stealth antenna,
Hey Wayne, I had a 9:1 for my first "real" HF antenna. I love them 👍
No Brasil o limite para iniciantes é de 100w ...demais classes 1.500 w
Nicely done.
Thanks Buzz 👍
Using the red crimper dies on a blue terminal won't crimp it tight enough. Adding solder is compensation, but where the hot solder doesn't fill, it's too loose. You're also using the insulated crimper die on uninsulated terminals. There is a different die set for uninsulated terminals that you should be using.
Thanks for the info LG 👍
Nice Job. looks good. I have been thinking of trying one in place of my 80m EFHW I have one built but can't remember if I tested it.
Thanks, this kit was an easy build 👍
"...we're just gonna white trash this...." LOL. Fun to watch Ape. I enjoy how you teach as you go.
Lol, thanks HOA 👍
Great video! I am planning one of these now after watching your build. By way of comparison, would you be able to also show the difference in changing the antenna side to one of the longer wires maybe a 107/119?
Keep up the great vids!
Hey JT, glad you liked the video and thanks for watching. You should be fine if you stick to one of the recommended lengths; the long you go the better for the low end bands.
Hi Ape, just tried surfing over to Ham Radio Prep using your link under "more." (after watching your "DIY 9:1 Unun End Fed Random Wire Antenna for Ham Radio") It threw an "error" and wouldn't let me get there. They may have changed their link. Thought I would let you know so you can get the link fixed and subsequently get credit for any sign-ups. Cheers, Tom
Thanks for letting me know tom, I just fixed it!
Nice build. What is the maximum power handing capability?
I've never pushed it past 100W, if I had to guess I'd say about 350W digital and 500W SSB.
Hello ! Thanks for all - BUTT please tell us the TYPE from that FERRO AMIDON. Thank you so 👋👋💪💪🍀🍀
Does the number of times you wrap the wires around to torad make a difference?
good work
Thank you!
Second time watching. I want to build more! I need to order toroids! Yall should sell em! Wrapped and unwrapped!
Haha! Glad you liked the video Swimbaiter 👍
What kind of Toroid would I want for a 160M antenna? (you mentioned the numbers). Later in the video you mentioned wire lengths. So, if I understand correctly, for 1.9MHz I would want to stay in the middle between 246 ft and 493 ft which would give me something like 369.5 ft. Is that correct? (thats an awful long wire).
I’d start with a an FT240-61 with about 155’ feet of element. Then I would adjust from there if needed. 👍
Smoke - really good EFRW build presentation here. Thank you.
I think that I am getting smarter (?) about understanding EFRW and EFHF wave antenna designs, but one question sticks out - why do we use a wound toroid with a capacitor (an LC?) for an EFHW, but only a wound toroid (no capacitor) for a EFRW?
It has to do with additional capacitance on the high harmonics of the EFHW, here is a link where I talk about it in more detail: ruclips.net/video/QtIqJ60KhoY/видео.html
@@TheSmokinApe TU, 73
Do ypu have a follow up video showing this antenna working?
So I don't, but I use this antenna often and it works very well...
Thank You :)
Sure thing, thanks for watching Juha 👍
In my humble opinion, the better solution is to use a wire that you resonate on the lowest F band of interest and use it with a multi-tap UNUN for a multi-band, no tuner needed solution :)
I haven't made a multitap yet, I should give it a try. Thanks for the comment!
So when you say the wire is cut at 41', is that the distance from the strain relief to the isolator/dog bone? I'm assuming it doesn't include what you loop back, but figured I would ask.
From the wing nut to where it fold back. 👍
Any reason, instead of fighting the wires and the short leads and soldering the two wires together BEFORE making a single connection to the SO-239, to not just put a small lug on EACH of those wires and connecting them to two different bolts on the SO-239? End result would be the same, yes?
that might just be a good idea!
I have a question. I just wrapped a 49:1 with stranded. Have you noticed any differences with stranded vs solid?
I have not, but RF travels on the outside of wire and with the extra surface area with stranded you are better off…
amazing
clear
detaled love it!
only question is
PTFE 16awg wire - is that soid core? or stranded?
and does that matter?
It 18g stranded, it’s debatable but I’ve had no problems with stranded 👍
that is called tri feller wound . also for more power 2 cours needed and larger PTFE wire. it takes heat better than MAG wire. them dog bone insulators as also used in electric fence in farm use. so Tractor supply company has them. some times you get lucky on some bands and need no tuner. but multi band use keep a tuner on hand. 73's
Hey Robert, agreed on all counts! That’s for checking out the video 👍
@@TheSmokinApe My DX commander DX 10 and DX 50 wire on the way. My M & P POTAFLEX 7 on the way. just made to to customs today. I did find that M & P makes a great antenna wire. found it on web page . next order. I have a 9:1 with small core and MAG wire. had the MAG wire arc on FT 8 @ 40 watt. lost all RX . found burn mark on wire after un wrapping. PTFE wire better on voltage. I just wound a 64:1 with 2- T 240-43 cores with #12 PTFE wire. need bigger box. used #16 PTFE on T-240-43 for 49:1 . did not do cross over. better for QRO wrap that way. in a box like you used. all done except antenna wire and counter poise. with ICOM 7300 with 9:1 put tuned in emergency mode. drop power 50% or less. i used 40%. will tune over 3:1 . this is in the CD manual for the ICOM . many do not know this with 7300 . read the big manual I say. if you wind a 9:1 this can be 1:1 with move around how wires jump together and also makes a DC ground on center dipole to reduce static build up . the outher way to wind 1:1 . 73's
So, I wasn't able to [easily] locate where you actually tested the end-fed as a follow up to this video at least not from the titles. Could you please provide either the link here or respond if you decided not to do a follow up video. I've very closely paralleled your steps in building end-fed antennas w/o being aware of your build! End-fed antennas are my favorite portable go to.
I've used it with great results quite a bit since the build, I haven't done a dedicated follow up...
Awesome! New to Ham and I'm going to build this as my first antenna. I do have one question about the Remington wire. Is that a specific wire? I'm seeing all sorts of wire on the website and just wondering which one I need.
It’s 18g Teflon coated, hope that helps.
Another advantage of an EFRW antenna is that the torroid doesn't heat up like an EFHW.
Good point Paul
Totally unrelated to what you're talking about, I have an issue with an old ZS6BKW wire antenna that never really worked that well and the ladder- line broke away from the balun last year, after some seriously strong winds here.
It is set up as an Inverted Vee and I want to remove the balun so that I can have RG-213 as the transmission line into my shack.
Should I just dump the whole antenna or can I at least use the element wires as a dipole?
Because of the size of my property, I can't fit anything larger than this antenna to get any decent directionality.
I do however have an MFJ tuner, if that is any help at all.
What are your thoughts on this?, I'd really like to get back on HF if I could.
Sorry to lay a question like this on you with next to no information.
73,
Mike,
ZL3XD
Hey Mike, I'd keep the element wire and the window line and build a new antenna. That ZS6BKW is a big antenna so you probably have the materials to make something else.
You mentioned the antenna wire length. Does that length include the strain relief at the start and the tuning length at the end or did you add extra for those lengths?
I include the strain relief 👍
"I tried every trick in the book, including talking dirty."
😂Subscribe.
Haha
Nice talk. _(You ground-pounder? jar-head?)_ Not too long, not too short!
I've been QRT for OMG 2.5 decades (was "pro" early 1970s; 1973 licensed) and am really thinking about it.
Maybe snip/slap and add to have a more theory-oriented of this with much (much!) less time on construction basics? (Winding the toroid is a must. Decades on the air and never ever done even one!)
p.s. *_(Wire type_*_ for long antennas is a great topic!)_
_73_
*--VE6IU*
Well I tell you what, we got a little sideways going round the bend and then I don’t know what. That build was just a going and the a little more fore we got through it and then next thing you know it was over before we started I tell you what. Thanks for watching!
@@TheSmokinApe *_Hey there you!_*
I screen recorded the 2 parts of toroid winding, gonna trim them down _("Tell'em what yuhr gonna tell'em; tell'em; tell'em what you told'em.)_ splice/giggle, upload to my account.
For you to discard / diss / mock / use ... next round's on you.
^5
How bout that, glad there is still some tread on them tires going round and round. I’m glad that it’s helping.
@@TheSmokinApe Hey, I rebuilt RTTY at 14, 1968, but ... truth be told? again: never ever wound a toroid.
Thank you I've been a Technician only for many years ever since the no code change. However recently I have found so much interest in the HF bands and QRP projects. I just picked up a used G90 and hope to take the GENERAL Lic very soon and open the door to HF. Your video was awesome and can't wait to build one myself. Does anyone here have the answer to this: LDG shows no counterpoise on the 9:1 unun I will be using a 100' RG8X to the unun. Planned on no counterpoise with Ferrite Beads at transceiver to avoid possible rf return. Transmit is at 20W max. Or do I need a 1:1 Balun choke? Any info would be great. THANKS again for this great video!!!
Hey USA P! Good luck on the test. Many companies who make 9:1 antennas claim you don’t need a counterpoise, they rely on the coax shield to act as the counterpoise. While this would work, it’s not optimal or ideal. You r beads would reduce the RF from coming back into the radio but I would encourage you to add a balun / choke at the antenna feed point and use a counterpoise if possible.
great video where did you get the box from tsk
It's from Amazon, just search for "electronics project box" 👍
sir please check in the frequency chart 24.9 mhz 3rd multiple is 57 feet but 58 feet is in the green list
very close. is this work? thank you sir.
Only one way to find out, give it a try
I seriously enjoyed this video and look forward to the test results and impedance measurements. I am seeing so many use small company commercial versions without a counterpoise and would like to see the performance differences as I am still confused on this, Dave- KU9L
Check out this video: ruclips.net/video/Y7vaXcaeVgM/видео.html. I always tell folks, ABC... Always Be Counterpoising.
Question: if you are using the coax shield as the counterpoise as many home stations might, is it counterproductive to install a choke at the antenna feed point? I currently am using a choke before the coax enters my shake and I seem to be having some good results with that. It seems like I have had some trouble tuning the random wire if there is a choke at the antenna feed point AND I am using the coax shield as the counterpoise.
Hey JoAnn. If you choke at the antenna feed point you do impact the ability to use the coax as a counterpoise. You should at a minimum choke and the shack if not at the feed point. Personally I want to use the coax as transmission line only, and a counterpoise as the counterpoise. But there are a ton of opinions on the matter, best of luck 👍
Hi, I'm using a clamp on ferrite core at my feed point which is indoors, and 25 feet of the coax is wound as an ugly balun choke. I'm not using a counterpoise, but also using an MFJ Artificial ground with about 16 feet of wire as an earth.
How do you lay out the counterpoise? Opposite direction of the antenna wire? Directly under the antenna wire? And wouldn't work better with a series of radials?
I try to lay the poise the opposite direction. The counter poise is used to work against the AC current in the element, AC is equal and opposite flow. Typically we use a ground plane of radials to couple the antenna system to the ground and reduce the amount of RF reflected and not absorbed by the Earth.
@@TheSmokinApe You need a good RF ground to reflect the signal so the signal will launch. Otherwise, the earth surface will absorb the signal, rendering the antenna system ineffective. I put together the 9:1 unun per your video - which is well done, by the way. I strung up 71 feet of 18 gauge insulated wire and laid down a 25 ft counterpoise to the left of the antenna. A sweep showed low SWR across all ham bands with 17 meters at full resonance. There's less than 6 ft of RG-58 coax from the tuner in my shack to the feed point of the antenna. I made some contacts on 40, 20 and 17. Signal reports were 559, 549. I added another 25' counterpoise fanned out 6 to 7 feet from the first counterpoise which slightly raised the SWR on those 3 bands after tuning (which I expected) and my signal reports came back at 579 to 599. Is this a coincidence or is this something to consider for permanent installation?
I wouldn't be concerned about the SWR as much as the better signal reports. I'd try to use that config long term...
@@TheSmokinApe I laid out a 33 ft counterpoise in the opposite direction and got great signal reports on 80 through 15. No activity on 12 or 10. But the antenna tunes great. Thanks for you video and your help.
I built this UNUN based on your video, but the ground and hot are shorted. I looked at your diagram and I can see it there as well. Is this supposed to be shorted?
Yes, it’s an autotransformer which has a DC short to ground 👍
@@TheSmokinApe Thank you! It's running great btw.
Awesome!
Got my IC-718 yesterday. Got all the parts I need for this except the feed line choke. So close to getting on HF.
Question, is there anything I can do to substitute for the choke you use at the feed point? Thanks Ape, I watch all your videos over most for info!
Hey Kevin. No choke, look at grounding options or at a minimum a counterpoise…. Try 17’ for starters. I have a video on DIY choke baluns you might want to check. Good luck with the project 👍
Does your element need to be bare wire that touches your eyelet on the unun? I see you clamped it with the protective covering still on
Hey Ken, yes it will need connectivity.
Where did you obtain the wingnut and lugs from? I am having a heck of a time finding examples similar to what you used in the video.
Hey DL, it was either on Amazon or the HW shop 👍
I made a EFHW for 40-10. Does a EFRW have anything better than my EFHW? I get 4 bands with out tuner, and can get others with my tuner. I can even tune 80 with an external tuner.
You might be able to get 12 & 17 or even 6 with the Random. Also, you can get a little more loss in the 49:1 but I wouldn’t loose sleep over it 👍
@@TheSmokinApe With just about 66 feet I have 4 bands without a tuner. And other bands with a tuner. My understanding is that a tuner is needed for EFRW antenna for all bands. I am new so if I am wrong let me know. 73 W4DES
I can get 80 and some of the others using my MFJ 940 tuner. I know I lose a lot using the tuner. But may need the tuner using the EFRW.@@TheSmokinApe
One more question, please? Can I use a FT140-43 toroid core instead of a ft240-43 core? Do I only sacrifice a bit of power handling capability, or is there another reason?
You can but as you mention you will loose some power handling. Thanks for checking out the video 👍
@@TheSmokinApe TU, 73
Wish I had a Jeep on MY vise. 😄
Haha
9:1 is turns ratio, have you tried connecting a 450 ohm resistor to the antenna side and checking it with a spec an?
At 32:25 of this video 👍
@@TheSmokinApe oh it's a 3:1 turns, my bad.
👍
A 9:1 or a 16:1 should both work really well, if using stranded wire stay away from 26.0-27Mhz as that is the resonant frequency of the Chlorine Atoms in PVC.
Never tried a 16:1, thanks for the info!
I need another 9-1 unun, where do I order one
the one I have is identical to yours, but forgot where I got it.
Mouser is a good place to get Toroids
How many wraps did you do? Maybe I missed that but isn’t it important?
9 wraps. Got it. You showed it later in the video.
So 9:1 requires 9 wraps? Does that always correlate? So 4:1 would require 4 wraps etc?
And a 49:1 requires 49 wraps? That would be beyond just challenging.
So the number of wraps is important but its a ratio between the primary and secondary windings. In this case 9 primary, and 27 secondary. 27 / 9 = 3. the square of 3 is 9 so that's how you get to 9:1.
@@TheSmokinApesorry, I’m missing something. Rewatching.
what secondary winding with 27 windings?
I see you wrapped a single toroid with 3 wires and 9 windings. There’s no second “secondary” core which is what I’d expect when in the the context of a primary and a secondary winding.
Stranded wire would have more aggregate surface area, and we all know about skin-effect, so I would suggest that stranded wire of the same gauge would be better.
This was stranded wire.
@@TheSmokinApe yep, I saw that, hence my comment. I meant stranded wire is better than solid conductor.
Yep, I agree. Thanks for watching and for the comment Terry!
Would there be any advantage to using a 240 vs 140 Toroid?
The larger Toroids support a higher transmission power 👍
Wowsers
Lol
@@TheSmokinApe looks a bit complicated
Why do we need to constantly keep having to " go ahead and " ???
Because