ARRL End Fed Antenna Build - Ham Radio
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- Опубликовано: 14 янв 2025
- #YTHF21
In this video, we build the ARRL / HF-Kits End Fed Half Wave (EFHW) Antenna.
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Great job, I built one of these according to the plan but using parts that I sourced separately and was having trouble tuning. I went back and reworked it after watching your video and bingo. Please keep the videos coming
Hey John, glad it was helpful. No plans to slow down on the videos, thanks for watching 👍
Great step by step, this kit looks great. It really opens it up, lets you see how and where all toroid wraps are going, to really help understand antennae theory. Oh, and props to you for actually doing what your video title says. So tired of muddling through titles, with no real talkin the video about the actual title of the video! Well done!
Thanks Joe, glad you liked the video 👍
Thank you for doing this video! I assembled my HF Kits 250w EFHW today, and without your video I would have struggled. It was a great project.
I still use this antenna, glad the video was helpful 👍
Superb! I really appreciate the pace at which you covered everything and your explanations of why something is or is not needed. Not only is this project appropriate for new Hams, but it would also be useful for all classes and experience levels and it looks like this would last a long time. Well done!
Thanks for the feedback Jim, glad you liked the video 👍
Thanks for the videos Ape, they're all very helpful. I've been using this EFHF for awhile now and it works quite well. Early last summer my wife and I got to our dirt in New Mexico and I hurried to get the antenna up. Checked it out with my VNA (thanks for your videos on how to use a VNA) and the SWR was out on 20 meters, nothing my tuner couldn't handle. Over the summer I made a contact in Venezuela (20 meters) and New Zealand (15 Meters). The snow started flying at 7k feet in NM so time to pack up the RV and head somewhere warmer. Imagine my surprise when I disconnected the EFHW and discovered I had the antenna connected to the lug for the counterpoise and of course the counterpoise connected to the lug for the antenna. So my antenna was laying in the dirt, and yet it worked.
Haha, you are not the first person to do that! Glad to hear it’s working out for you 👍
"So my antenna was laying in the dirt, and yet it worked."
What is not much discussed is that the counterpoise IS as much antenna as anything else in this rig. In fact, the feedline going to the UNUN is also part of the antenna unless your counterpoise exactly balances the antenna (or vice versa in your case).
In other words, it is a transformer and really doesn't make a difference which end is the "antenna" and which end is the counterpoise.
Problems are likely if you don't use a counterpoise. You still have one whether you realize it; the coax feedline becomes the counterpoise, and maybe your body!
Actually doing the build was a great teaching tool.... I made one of these (not with a kit) by hand and I really, really wish I had seen this video first! Also, your tests with the resistor and showing the difference that the capacitor made, and your explanation of why the SWR line would look much different using a real antenna was spot-on!!! I also have to be honest... this kit looks a lot easier than me doing it all from scratch when I was building one. I'll buy a couple of these kits as backup!
And dude, I need to send you a traeger....
Yeah man, this was a decent kit that was easy to assemble. Glad you liked the video, thanks for watching bro
You’ve taken the mystery out of doing a build, I will give it a try. Great video!
Good luck with it Packrat, it's a fun project 👍
@@TheSmokinApe In spite of my mistakes, it hasn't turned out too bad (Just don't look at it!). I have it hung and I'm getting good signals on all bands but 10 meter. I haven't trimmed it yet so I think that should help. I could use some pointers on using the cheapest NanoVNA to check it out if you have any recommendations. Thanks again.
Great idea to share the before/after resistor. Thank you for sharing! Great video.
Thanks for watching!
I absolutely loved your video! Just as a side note, instead of drilling out the balun top cover. Put a bit of pressure on those screws, so they self tap. It makes it so the screws become captive. Great video!
Thanks for the tip Dean, glad you liked the video!
I purchased this kit 13 months ago, built it, and left it outside for 12 months. Yes, sounds dumb, but I wanted to see just how it performed as a permanent fixture. When I cracked it open, there was a minute amount of humidity build up. I had to use a paper towel to wipe it up, and it was just a little damp. Take it for what it is, for a year in the Frisco TX weather, i cant complain. It has been an effective antenna.
When I solder crimp connecters I use my anderson connector crimpers, as I love how they crimp, and I hold the soldering iron tip under the connector and heat it until the solder melts and wicks inside the crimp area. To me it ensures that the entire connector is hot enough to bond to the solder. I don't think there is any issue with your method, just sharing mine. :)
73
Hey Guy, glad to hear it's holding up for you. Mine has been up since I made that video, almost two years ago. I was thinking about cracking it open and taking a look around. You may have convinced me that it's time!
@@TheSmokinApe awesome! I wish I had taken pictures or video myself.
👍
Thanks!
👍
I built this kit and took it to a POTA park on a sunny day. I was amazed by this antenna performance. I could work SSB with Alaska and Azores. Both 40 and 20 meter bands have 1.2 : 1 SWR reading. I am very satisfied. Thank you for your instructional video.
That's awesome, thanks for checking the video out Yakov
Have one of these for field days. Works amazingly well.
Yeah, I've been happy with it as well. Thanks for watching Woody 👍
Well I ordered the kit and I finished up around 7PM tonight. I used your RUclips video and the instructions from HF Kits. It isn't as pretty as yours was as I have fat fingers and getting wires to their correct location in the correct length for me was a bugger bear. Anyway I got it up at about 8 ft at the box and at about 6 ft at the other end with some droop in the middle. SWR was really good across the bands, even the ones it isn't designed for. Tomorrow I will get it up properly... Thanks again for the videos you make. de W4WLC
Thats awesome man, glad you hear it's working out for you 👍
I just got one in the mail. I ordered through the ARRL. Now I want to build it when I get back from my trip. I fly out tomorrow. I hope to take this portable once I get it setup. Thanks for the video. I ordered it since you made it look so easy. Haha. Jk. I am not afraid of solder so it should be good. I will drive up on another trip and bringing this and assorted stuff to do portable from the lake cabin. Might as well since we won’t be able to afford gas at the marina. Al the best! 73!
Good luck with the build, I have been using this as my main antenna for over a year.
@@TheSmokinApe good to hear. I will initially try it out at the qth and then take it portable.
Good video. I used it for reference when I assembled my antenna. Two suggestions. If you examine the (4) screws for the cover, you will see they have a shoulder. You screw them into the cover and at a certain point they will “pop” through. The screws are now trapped onto the cover and will not fall out when you remove the cover. The second suggestion may be classified as overkill. I lightly grease the gasket with Molykote. This is a non-petroleum based grease that helps waterproof the seal.
Nice, thanks for the info David 👍
I just got mine built this morning and came here to make the same comment about the lid screws. Day late and a dollar short. My Nano gets here in a couple days. I’ll test it out and see how I did.
Using the VNA shows smart thinking and your easy soft spoken delivery earns an instant Sub, thanks for sharing, BTW living here in N Ireland I’ll get the kit from the manufacturer. Take care👍
Glad you liked it Cliff, thanks for watching 👍
Hey Ape , this build tutorial was smokin !!!! just what the Dr ordered … thanks a million and looking fwd to building this way… regards from Adelaide Aust. 🙏
Hey LL, glad it was helpful 👍
Excellent build video Ape! I built one of these a few weeks ago and wish I had this video as a reference when I did.
Thanks Rob, they did a really good job with this kit.
Good ,job and from experience the End Fed Half Wave is an Excellent Aerial ..
Thanks Trig, I really like that antenna 👍
Going to let my students build this antenna in class this semester. Great video, I'll be saving it!!
Awesome Bill, glad the video is helpful!
Just got my kit today, will definitely be reviewing your video AGAIN on build day. Well done and thank you!!!
Awesome Grant, hope the video helps 👍
A great training video. Will recommend it to all the new hams I am Elmering. End fed antennas just fit better in many shack arrangements to get started in ham radio on the HF bands.
Hey David, you are correct in that they are very versatile and have many mounting options. Thanks for checking out the video 👍
Just finished building this kit. I bench tested it with an Nano VNA H4 to check the SWR readings. When running the scan from a computer with the NanoVNA software, my SWR readings were higher then when I just ran it from the Nano VNA it's self. Scanning from 6.9mhz - 30mhz (no cap) through the computer interface I got SWR readings of 1.4 (6.9mhz) up to 6.57 (30mhz) unplugging the computer those same readings dropped to 1.4 - 4.6. With the cap soldered in they were 1.3 - 2.43 on the computer, and 1.25 - 1.75 on the Nano VNA its self. I Calibrated the Nano VNA it self, plus ran the calibration from the software as well. The only change was just plugging the Nano VNA in to the computer with a USB cable. In any case I'm happy with it. I will be at the BVARC POTA @ Galveston Island event this Sunday and hope to tune the wire length there. Thanks for the Videos
Hey Rudy. I have never seen a variation like that, you can delete the calibration and apply a new one to see if that helps.
Great instructional video, pls make more. You are very good at it!
Thats the plan. I have a few other build videos in my Antenna Playlist. Thanks for the comment 👍
I wish I had watched this before building my ARRL EFHW. The video I watched and the instructions were not as clear. Good job!
Hey HFS, thanks for the comment I’m glad you liked the video 👍
Thanks for the video it will help with my building of this kit. I just received it in the mail yesterday it will be my first build as a ham. BTW...It has increased in price by $20 since this video. Hello inflation. Hey, You crimp just fine. I just use a different tool is all. Same results.
Good luck with the build 👍
@@TheSmokinApe I was wondering about using different antenna wire than what comes with the kit. Specifically THNN 14AWG Stranded Copper by Cerro Wire. I have a fresh spool of it to construct a BBTD whole house ALE antenna. This would work on the EFHW too I would think and it is a bit stronger and heavier than the wire in the kit. What do you think? Better, worse, no change, or WTH?
@@AlvinMcManus should work just fine, you may need to adjust the length as you tune but it would be fine.
3:49 Notice in the diagram the wires of the primary and secondary are NOT twisted, but the instructions, such as they almost are, say to twist loosely. That puts strain on the wires where they cross each other as you wrap the toroid. So I didn't do that. I laid them parallel on the toroid. It probably isn't a big deal but something to think about.
I bought a set of stepped drill bits from Harbor Freight, they work great and make nice big round holes in plastic for the SO239 socket.
One thing I didn't do, but should have, is paid more attention to the orientation of the solder pocket when I fastened the so239. I used Locktite to keep the screws from unscrewing. Anyway, solder pockets ended up sideways and that's okay, worse would have been upside down.
Looks like you put them in sideways too.
19:45 I allowed the lid screws to be tight, drove them in with a screw-drill. This captures the screws so I don't have to worry (as much) about losing them.
Hey Thomas. I have heard people say that untwisted is better for efficiency, I have never tested that. Good call on the solder pocket, you don't want that upside down.
Nice job…enjoyed the build and post-diagnostics.
Glad you enjoyed it, thanks for checking it out Frank
Clear and informative explanation.
Thanks for watching Homer 👍
These are good for Hams that live in HOA,
They sure are, thanks Manuel 👍
Great presentation skills. I like the way you progress, not to quickly, so those of us who have never done this can understand it.
Thanks for the feedback Jeffery, glad you liked the video 👍
Excellent!!! Best video on youtube showing unum build. Thanks and 73, AA4EZ
Wow, thanks!
Just got mine built following the instructions. Thanks for the clear, concise video, Ape
Awesome Don, glad it was helpful 👍
Man I like your cadence. Keep it up.
Thanks Andrew 👍
Really good, thanks for sharing, love the pacing of this demo
Tha is Ohaya, glad you liked it 👍
3:48 Gracias por compartir tan valisosa información!
Thanks Antonio 👍
can't sleep listening to 20 meters playing mr. critic below
Great video. I just ordered one of these earlier today and am looking forward to the build. Thanks
Good luck with it Mike, it's a fun build 👍
For fast efficient soldering you want a tip that has the best heat transfer rate for the size of the task. The small conical tip you have here is OK-ish for fine work but the shape almost ensures the contact area is minimal and therefore has an inferior heat transfer rate. By switching to a chisel point or truncated cone and using the flat face of the tip you will greatly increase contact area and consequently the heat transfer rate. A rapid heating has at least two advantages, the flux is less likely to fully boil off and less total heat is introduced into the component.
Thanks man 👍
Excellent presentation. I am going to buy the kit now. I think I will crimp on another length of wire to make it suitable for 80M as well.
Good luck with the build Rob, it was a fun project 👍
An excellent video! Very nicely presented. Everything seems pretty straight forward. I may have to add one of these to my travel trailer packing list so I can get on the air while on the road. And Winter Field Day... Hmmmm. Price sure seems right too. Thank you for sharing.
Thanks William, glad you liked the video!
Thanks for the vid. It helped with my own custom build.
Awesome jj, glad it was helpful 👍
Nice build. First note, some instructions show winding clockwise others counter clockwise. Flipping toroid over may make wires better align with terminals. Next item is that drilling cover holes is not needed. Screws run through cover before assembling to box become “captive hardware” so they don’t get lost later.
4:21 Yes, correct. 'Spoel' means 'coil'.
Thanks Rick 👍
This was an excellent piece of work, much appreciated..73s Dusty G7TFZ
Thanks Dusty, glad you liked it!
@22:30 damn that’s a HUGE microphone!
Haha
Well done, thanks.
Thanks Ken!
Well done !
Thanks 🙏
Good video❗️so good I just watched it for the third time and just ordered it from the AARL but it did go up to $69.00✅
Awesome, let me know how it turns out 👍
You could have bought the parts separately instead of a kit....much, much less than $69. I did a research based on the parts list of the kit and bought enough for building several....all parts are almost here. 73 es happy new year...Rafael / NN3RP
Great video! Nice clear directions.They bumped up the price to $69.95 however.
Thanks HRO, glad you liked the video 👍
So without a NanoVna, at least a SWR meter needed to get close, and the internal tuner/matching of radio would suffice?
@@bradswarren correct
Great job Smoke! I’m gonna give this kit a try! 73
Thanks man, glad you liked it 👍
Awesome video, very cool build!
Thanks man 👍
I built the hfkits 100 watt version. Recently I opened it up and found a lot of moisture inside, even though I strategically used silicone sealant. It possibly got in through the seal for the box lid, or I'm even wondering if it wicked in through the threads of the bolt the antenna wire mounts on. (I was careful where I put silicone, so I didn't cause any electrical insulating problems). I dried it out then put silicone with the lid seal and more around the wire bolt. (eye bolt and so239 I siliconed well the first time.) It'll be interesting to look again after a bit more rain to see if I stopped it. Nest one I build I'll buy their pressure compensation valve to help.
That pressure valve might be the way to go, thanks for sharing OFOABMX!
Once again a great video. You are so calming and soothing. No drama I like it. Did you ever figure out what the element wire was made of? I am building that same kit tomorrow so I was reviewing the steps when I heard to comment you made about the element wire. So, didya?
Pretty sure it's AL, but not certain. I did have to trim it often because it would stretch 👍
Hi Ape!
17:22: 2.4k ohm resistor, rated for how many watts?
Choices local to me are 0.25W, 0.5W, 1W & 2W. Anything else and I'll have to order online, which is fine, just need to know.
There are several VNAs listed on your Amazon page. Given that I only want one and I'd like it to be as up to date and feature packed as possible, and visible with old eyes, please point me at the best one...I want to be just like you when I grow up, LOL.
22:39: This could be my set up as well, except my radio room is on the 2nd floor with MFJ window pass-through ~10-12 ft off the ground. Was thinking of short coax to MFJ panel and connecting the unun/antenna wire at the panel. Would string the wire diagonally across back yard to the right/ SE ~60 feet to a 20 - 30 ft spiderbeam pole and then back to the left/North to a 20-25 ft tree or 2nd spiderbeam. Would probably need a dangling wire counterpoise from the Unun given the short feedline. Ground it with an arrestor?
I also plan to make and add the induction coil to get 80 meters as per the instructions and similar to your other video for the 40.
IF I did go with your layout, I'd have to put in 60 -70 feet of feedline but could skip the counterpoise. It is rainy and wet most of the year here and we do get freezing temps. I'd probably have to get special coax for direct burial if not put it in a pvc or other conduit. Doable but less fun and more costly.
Would appreciate your thoughts.
73,
John - KK7JBZ
I would get the 2w to be the safest but any should work fine.
I usually recommend the NanoVNA H4, its a middle of the road and the one I use most.
You can still use the counterpoise with 60-70' of coax, in fact I would.
I have had the window mount unun and then coax run to the unun out in the yard, they perform better a few feet off the ground.
I'd get up what you can the quickest with whatever you have at your disposal. After some time testing you will look for alternatives, some will be an improvement and some won't; they all will be an learning experience.
Any plans on doing video on new RF Exposure Rules?
Very nice video, even if you are not a DIY person this you would be able to do.
I have been thinking about it 🤔
That was really a great informative video. You spelled it out in simple easy to understand terms. Well done. Barry, KU3X
Thanks Barry, glad you liked it 👍
Hi Ape,
You did a great job on the build. Enjoyed watching the video. You and the family stay safe. 73 WJ3U
Thanks Don, be safe bud 👍
Nice job, making one from scratch here. What was the new total length of the wire and it's gauge pls?
It was 18g and the element was about 64’ with a 17’ counterpoise 👍
Cool! Thank you!
Thanks William, glad you liked it 👍
Impedance ratio is the square of the turns ratio.
7to1 turns ratio, 49to1 impedance ratio.
👍
Great video man. Informative and entertaining.
#YTHF21 #TeamReplay for the win!
Glad you enjoyed it!
I followed a similar set of instruction on a different channel to the "t" in both parts 1 & 2 and I kept getting screwy SWR readings using 2500 ohms of resistors. I thought the resistors were the problem, so I made a new string of 2500 ohm resistors. Still the screwy swr readings the were off the planet. I was using an MFJ 225 VNA during my bench test. I was going nuts trying to figure out what the problem was. I even had my resistors going over the top of the box just like what is shown in the video.
Then through some experimentation, I moved the resistors 90 degrees to the side of the PVC box. The swr's were fantastic after some minor adjustments in position. I now wonder if the use of the MFJ 225 VNA may have been the problem by creating a stronger magnetic field with the toroid since in other videos showing the bench testing with a different brand of VNA did not experience the same problem. Anyway, the problem solved.
Note to builders of this HFKIT antenna from the Netherlands. Do not use a knife to scrape away varnish as shown in the first video of this series. The knife will not clean the magnet wire well enough for good solder contact. Instead, use 150 or 240 grit sand paper to clean the varnish off the wire before soldering. The varnish on the magnet wire you get with the kit is very thick and it takes some work to properly remove. Proper removal of varnish will result in much better solder joints. Don't ask me how I know all of this.
I actually use a dremel to remove the varnish these days 👍
That will definitely work.
Great video Ape. I was just looking into doin one of these myself!
Thanks man, it was a fun project build 👍
Thanks for the Vid! In a few places, the instructions were confusing. It talked about removing the insulation close to the core??? Still don't understand that part....
Thanks again! K9MGZ
Hi Ape, could I ask why you chose the 2,400 Ohm resistor? Was it due to the fact that if divided by 49 we get 50 Ohm? I did the same build today but used a 3,300 Ohm because that was more convenient for me to test with. I built the 20m/10m version of this kit. I got 1.5:1 SWR on 14 MHz and 1.9:1 SWR on 28 MHz (I soldered the capacitor as well). I suspect it's a little high because I used a larger value resistor than what you used. Would a end-fed half wave antenna cut for 20m have around 2500 Ohm resistence/impedance? Many thanks - Alex 2E0LUP
Hey Alex. I did use the 2,400 because 2400 / 49 = 50. If the device you used to measure SWR was calibrated to 50 ohms thats why you would get higher SWR readings. The 20/10 would have ~2400 ohm impedance. Hope that helps 👍
@@TheSmokinApe Excellent, thanks a lot for confirming!
Anytime
Good video Mr Ape. I like the explanations while you build it. In the graphic with you and your house, you have the antenna going over your house, I'm guessing it not a metal roof. My roof is metal so I don't think that's an option for me unless I go much higher.🤔
No metal, thanks for checking it out Don 👍
Awesome video SApe ! I was wondering how you arrived at the resistor for the dummy antenna at 17:15
love how you included the Nano VNA readings on the Transformer before and after adding the resistor as well as SWR sweep later when tuning the antenna length.
Did you do a single sweep on the SWR readings?
Also for a sweep that wide did you need to calibrate the Nano again? I think the manual always recommends calibrating for any new bandwidths.
These antennas are crazy cool! No expensive mast is needed because you can literally set it up on your house or if you have 1 decent tree.
Also like the yard pic showing the final setup man! Pics are worth a thousand words. Very good video!
I just had watched MOMSN build the same antenna with the loading coil for 80 Meters which is also a great video, love his work as well.
Glad you liked the video Blade. I did the resistor that was based off the expected impedance of the antenna. Yes, you should recalibrate or load a saved one when changing sweep frequencies.
@@TheSmokinApe I just saw another video of a guy that has a 12V relay coil setup to by pass the 49:1 on his EFHW antenna when he chooses to.
That way he can get 160, 60 and 6 Meter on the 130 ft wire alone. Here it is if you get a minute.
ruclips.net/video/Ree8NtpEEW4/видео.html
With a tuner could the EFHW be tuned to 11 meter?
I run dump trucks and all dump trucks run 11 meter CBs. Sometimes its nice to be able to get a radio check when no other trucks around. I
have an 11 meter base setup for that but no Ham yet. I've been learning the Ham stuff because of the need to make the
CBs better since my work requires it.
@@RC-Heli835 thanks man
The UNUN is 49 to 1 so you simply multiply the 50 ohm input by 49 for 2450 ohms. However, unless you are super precise, it probably won't be precisely 49 to 1 so any resistor in the general vicinity ought to work (2200 ohms seems to be a common value to test 49:1 unun's).
@@RC-Heli835 "With a tuner could the EFHW be tuned to 11 meter?"
It would probably work even without a tuner depending on the radio. Most radios with built-in tuners can cover up to a 3:1 SWR and that's pretty much the entire spectrum. External tuners can typically match up to 10:1 SWR.
Where you may get some odd results is that if your antenna is longer than 1/2 wavelength (ie, 5.5 meters in this case) it will have lobes; even stronger in some directions and deep nulls in some directions. If the antenna is vertical the stronger lobes are horizontal and thus excellent for skip; much better than a simple quarter wave vertical. But if your antenna leans or is horizontal then those lobes could create nulls where you don't want them but maybe you don't care and just take whatever you get and call it good. A vertical 5.5 meter antenna will be perfectly omnidirectional and have a bit of gain over a typical quarter wave vertical.
.... looking at the info on the net, it would seem to suggest that the T-240-2 toroid iron powder core may be a better mix, providing better efficiencies on the for the higher bands... especially 20 thru 15 and above, with the 43 mix more efficient on 80... 40 meters is a toss-up. I would consider swapping core materials after looking at a couple of videos and some data charts if this antenna is to be primarily to be used on the higher bands... I notice the little QRP guys UNUN antenna, designed for 40 and up I have one, uses a #2 mix core.
Yes, spoel is the Dutch coil indeed ;-)
Awesome 👍
Typically one would use a large toroid for higher power. When one uses a toroid of that size, one would assume you plan on using , for example , 1000 watts. But , coupled with the larger toroid would be larger sized wire. I wonder what the antenna power max is listed as ?
Hey CK, I believe this kit was rated at 300w 👍
@@TheSmokinApe I believe it comes with 18. I'd feel better with 16 or even 14 but hard to know which one would fit with the same number of turns.
Great job! Have you made a subsequent video which demonstrates the grounding or counterpoise of which you spoke? Also I would like to add something to the backside of the unun to wrap the wire for portable use such as field day or POTA, any suggestions?
Here is one I did on a 9:1 end fed, the same principles apply. Some folks get wire winders from Amazon or 3d print them.
Ape have you ever wound an 49/1 UNUN with insulated wire vs magnet wire and comparing the differences between the UNUN’s ❓73 KV5P
I have not, only magnet wire for the 49:1, I have used stranded copper on 9;1 ununs with no observable problems.
I think I'm going to buy and build this antenna just for the experience...maybe use it for POTA. I have no antenna building experience but this video and the ARRL instructions look easy to follow. I was a bit discouraged with the hard-core hams bashing this kit...it's only $79 and no, I can't build one for $10 because I don't have 90 percent of the material needed lying around. Another ham wrote an extensive, in-depth post on QRZ explaining how he improved on the antenna. I don't have an EE degree and he went way too in depth with the article from me to comprehend.
It’s a good kit that will teach you about antennas and I still use mine to this day. Good luck with the build 👍
Can placement of the transformer be on the roof instead of the fence ?
it can be but it will tune differently that way...
Very nice video. Did you know the way you wound the toroid is the inverse of the way they do it in the ARRL instructions? I went with your info.
That probably happened because I am a lefty, work fine though. Good luck with the project Bill!
Just found your site a few days ago and wish we had all this training and instruction 35 years ago when I got started. I have a tech license but haven’t been active in years. I just purchased one of these and I have some tall trees I can get this antenna up into. Can it be hung vertically or does it need to angled up? I can probably get it up in tree about 30 ft and string it to another tree at a little higher up or level.
It can be; horizontal, vertical or an inverted L or V. Glad you like the vidoes Wes 👍
I run a high power version that can handle at least 1000w. About the only difference is I have two toroids stacked and wrapped with the wire.
I use 136' of marine wire. No choke or counter poise. My swr is flat 1-1 to a max of 1-1.8 across 10, 20, 40, 60, 80 meters.
That’s awesome, did you build it or buy?
This is a great video, thanks a lot!
I used the same kit and build my 49:1 UnUn following the instructions from HFKits, before watching your video. I wish seeing it before assembling the kit.
One think that I like from your video (I struggled a lot with that part) is the fact that you assembled the cable lugs outside the box, allowing easy soldering task, in particular the part that includes condenser legs… oh boy, it was painful doing this inside the box 😓
On my measurements, using a 2k7 resistor, the antenna analyser is showing 1.2 SWR at lower end of the 40m and 1.8 SWR at the higher end of the 10m.
Still need to test it with the shorter wire with coil, should I try to improve that higher end of the 10m?
Thanks Anx, it sounds like your SWR is pretty good. 10m is going to be a struggle as the band is very wide. If you tune it for ten you may pull it out of “resonance” on 15,20 and 40
You can solder and crimp these wires because they will be inside the box and not moving or flexing. But if you crimp wires that will be flexing (used outside the box) it reduces the ability of the wire to flex at the edge of the connector and makes a weak point that is going to break before a flexible multi strand wire will. It defeats the purpose of stranded wire. It makes it like a solid piece of wire vs a stranded piece of wire. So soldering a crimp on an antenna wire is asking for trouble. Use stranded and crimp only.
Thanks for the info Dave 👍
Great job 👏
Thanks man, it's a pretty easy kit build 👍
@@TheSmokinApe I'm embarrassed to say it's an antenna I've never built, just never had the need. I do now though as a backup antenna for my 10m Spiderbeam pole.
@@MM0OPXFieldRadio I primarily use End Fed wire antennas due to my HOA so I’ve done a few different builds
THANK YOU for this video. I just bought the kit and your walking us through it will help a lot!! Question - do you lose much with 100 ft of RG8x, and with the window pass-through?
Glad you liked it, I do have some losses but it’s nothing I’m worried about 👍
Thanks for the video, Ape. I’m sure I’ll watch it again a few times if I pick the kit up. What program did you use for the artwork for the installation diagram?
Thanks Brian, I used Canva 👍
What are the specs of the 2400 ohm resistor? How many watts
great build. they see parts ! just box the board for the core the core. I have most everything so just the box and the board for core and they have vents ! all found from your link . still looking for a box for 2 or 3 stack T 240 cores . may try electrical box plastic home depot . them wire clamps I have are the 2 stud ones. Amazon has them. I am going to try a new trick to 49:1 . replacing 100 PF cap with arco mica trimmer. adjustable one. find the best point and put on LCR meter and read PF . just a test . 73's
I need to invest in some of those trimmers, thanks Robert 👍
Very nicely done my man. This looks like a very nice kit and I really like that I have to build it myself. I was wondering if this will work with my 20w rig?
Hey Benjamin, thanks for watching the video... this would have no problem on 20w.
Was that resistor metal film?
I can’t remember, so I’m going to say “maybe”
I've read somewhere that if you elevate the unun off the ground you don't need a counterpoise. If it's close to the ground you do. Is this true? I have absolutely no clue. If I don't use a counterpoise, what is the recommended choice to keep stray RF out of my equipment?
Hey Salebow. I’d recommend always using a counterpoise regardless of transformer height, using the coax shield as the counterpoise is a great way to get stray RF in the shack. Using chokes on both ends of the coax will help with RF but grounding the antenna is the best way to stop it followed with the use of a counterpoise 👍
I would have thought about extending the 16:1 UNUN maybe with 6x windings instead of 4 lots of 9 turns, it is possible to have the matching box in the crawl space above the bedrooms and bring the long wire out through a small hole sealed up using a gromit so moisture doesn't come into the crawl space.
I'm notmsure about 16:1. Yes you can mount it that way, keep in mind there are very high voltages at the end of the element, you don't want it anywhere someone might touch it 👍
There was no need to drill out the holes in the lid. Those holes are deliberately tight so that when the screws are forced through they remain captive, if you look carefully at the screws you’ll notice that they are only partially threaded and are waisted closer to the head. The end result is that if you remove the lid the screws don’t drop out and are lost.
The 2400ohm resistor you are using for testing. What watt raiting should I be looking at or does it not mater when testing with the nano?
I am pretty sure it was 1/2w
What was the original length of the antenna wire?
The packing list says “about 66’”
Hello! is a counter poise needed?
Needed, no. Recommended, yes.
Very nice demonstration. This is a good project for when I’m house bound. I live in the cold, snowy and icy rain 🥶 north and wonder how well the antenna wire would hold up in those conditions. 🤔
Thanks Mark, glad you liked the video. The element wire is pretty thick if that helps.
@@TheSmokinApe Ha! That makes sense 😀
What would your take be on using this as an inverted L in a small yard? 43 feet vertical on a pole and 23 feet horizontal with the feed point down by the ground? Thank you for your excellent video.
I think that would work just fine
@@TheSmokinApe Thank you so much.
How wide was the Step Drill Bit? Thank you 😊
I think it’s 1.5”
I’ve seen people cut the primary and secondary windings from each other, is there an advantage for either way?
I’m a very inexperienced solderer. I’m decent at big wire and some connectors, but small boards not so much.
Bought one, about to assemble it. Question - I keep seeing people saying an EFHW needs a counterpoise or the coax becomes one. As the length of the coax I will be using is only going to be about 10 feet, should I modify this to include a counterpoise, and if so - how?
I would, hook about 17’ of wire to the negative terminal 👍
@@TheSmokinApe Should I run that in the opposite direction of the main line, or can I just be lazy and drop it down from my roof along the corner of the wall full of chicken wire (stucco)?
Drop it straight down and see how it works