Pro Tip: 1. Cut a piece of paper slightly smaller than the area to mask. 2. Trace it onto a piece of tape. 3. Put the tape on the canopy. 4. Use the masking fluid to fill the small gap between the tape and canopy frame. This way you can use regular masking tape and save your expensive hobby tape for when you are masking lines etc. You also lose much less masking fluid and should have less surface tension issues.
@darkwood777 Say you're masking a canopy and the area you are trying to mask is 5mm x 5mm. Cut a small square of tape 4mm x 4mm and place it over the space to be masked. Now around the edge of the tape you'll still have 0.5mm space all around that needs masking. Fill that small area with the masking fluid, overlapping the tape a bit so you get the whole area masked.
IMO, It doesn't make sense to use masking fluid to fill the gape between tape and frame. The reason why we do the tape masking is because hand will shake and the frame will looks not as straight as in real life even your painting skill is excellent.
I have been using your other method of taping and liquid mask. Cutting a narrow strip of tape for the edges and liquid mask the center sections works the best, for me. I avoided models with a lot of clear parts until I learned your other method. Works GREAT! Thank you again.
I used the Tamiya tape and did it exactly as you did only when I had the lines marked with a super fine artist felt marker, I would remove the tape and cut the section with scissors then reattach the tape. I’ve tried too many times to cut along the canopy frame lines and ended up with a totally ruined canopy. My eyesight is not very good now so I don’t build models anymore. Age catches up with all of us. LOL! Anyway, your tutorials are always a pleasure to watch and very helpful. Best wishes!
Pretty much a perfect take on this somewhat convenient but problematic method. I've already enjoyed your other tutorials on masking, thank you very much for the knowledge. I learn something every time I watch your videos ( I got a whole lot to learn, but still). The ad wasn't too bad (I hate ads) because it was in your voice, which I've come to trust. Not over loud, not flashy graphics, just an honest endorsement. Hope it helps you to make a living doing this, because you're awfully good at it.
Something else to add and this would apply to ALL masks....If your having trouble positioning the thin stripes of tape...Mix up some water and dish detergent. Not a lot of the detergent is needed. Apply to the area and it reduces the "stickiness" of the tape so you can move it around. Once its in position just use a paper towel/Q tip etc and press it down and remove the water. The tape will stick as normal. Of course, I would let it dry thoroughly before painting.
@@MMScaleModels Not in my experience. Started using this technique with vinyl masks and then tried using it with household "low tac" painters tape. No issues thus far. The key is to make sure you blot all the water/soap mixture and give it some time to dry. I should have also said in my OP that you should go back and burnish down the tape to insure it HAS NOT come loose.
I find that if the canopy has a coating of Future (or equivalent) on it there are no surface tension issues with liquid masking media. It will hold its place easily. A very light pass with a sharp blade along the edges when done painting seems to help get a better edge.
I tried your other method for the first time last night and it was way easier than it looked. Albeit, it was only a 1/72 2 section cockpit. Thin strips of tape and infilling will likely be my way forward. Thanks buddy
A few small drops of Acrylic flow improver into the masking fluid makes it more viscous and flows lovely over clear parts. Two coats of masking works really nice.
Thank you for improving my opinion on this matter. I had never liked this kind of masking method, mostly because of being afraid to sudden damage of clear part especially after future cover. I use tiny lining with a tamiya masking tape on borders and filling inner space with patafix or liquid mask. Agree with you for 100%. But if canopy if too difficult to paint accurate i prefer to spend some money not wasting my efforts with model on final painting stage!
Hello my friend. I simply use narrow masking tape, like 5mm wide. If it is not flexible enough to bend sideways with the contours, I will cut the tape in half (or less) lengthwise. The more narrow the tape, the more sideways it can go without crumpling. Follow the contours you're trying to mask using the side of the tape that has the straight factory cut edge (not the side you cut by hand). Great topic to cover! Pun intended. =8-) Cheers from, Gulag Ontario, Canada. Subed!
I use to paint canopies...then I found a way to easily paint canopies. I lay out blue masking tape and spray paint the color of the aircraft on the tape, then I use a very sharp X-acto blade - metal ruler and cut very thin strips off the painted masking tape- then I apply it to the canopy. Looks real good and sharp when all is done.
I use thin strips of tamiya tape cut with a hobby knife to mask the edges of the canopy. I fill the outline with masking fluid. No worry about damaging the canopy.
wOW, VERY SIMPLE AND VERY LOGIC AS WELL. Thank you. I guess that for me it's enough with the first option. Either way I'm watching your other videos about masking
I make a plaster mold from the kit canopy and vacu-form a new thinner one and then use transparent tape or liquid mask to mask the frame for painting. Makes a very realistically thin window or canopy.
@@MMScaleModels I used a Mattel Vacu-form toy. The molds are made taking the original kit canopy upside-down in a cup of plaster, using clay dams as necessary, and let it set. Then after removing the original canopy pattern I do drill tiny holes along the frames, which makes little bumps which I sand off later, which helps pull the styrene or acetate down into the mold.
When I got back into the hobby a couple of years ago, I used a knife directly on the clear plastic to cut away tape for canopy masks. I learned the hard way why that's a bad idea,
Yeah, using both methods have their disadvantages. I've used both of them, and found that I can live with the small amount of inaacuracy of cutting the tape to shape, but can't live with how the liquid mask peeled some of the paint off in the wrong place :(
@@josephking6515 might as well have just used tape and cut around it if you’re using a knife I suppose. Plus, there will be little bits of liquid mask left behind if you do cut on it, which will peel off at some point abyway
With canopies that have faint frame detail, such as vac formed ones. I have cut thin pieces of tamiya type tape and made the frame on the canopy frames. I then used that as a guide to mask the clear parts off.
Moved away from masking fluids, masking tapes, etc. What I do now -and it is a lot of work, is use aluminum metal foil (the thinnest you can find, no more than 3-4 mil thick) which is cut in strips matching the canopy's frame width, paint the foil and apply a sealant then apply to frame, most realistic frames I've ever done. Any chipping of the paint is minor and adds to realism, but can be touched up if you don't want any chipping.
Случайно попаднах на този канал, и по акцента разпознах сънародник :) силно съм впечетлен, не знаех че има такива канали от българи, ще изгледам всичко с удоволствие :)
Hai ragione, dopo molti esperimenti ho optato per un metodo più lungo e farraginoso ma più sicuro e poco costoso. Nastro da carrozziere tagliato su misura e applicato in piccoli pezzi a seconda della complessità del tettuccio trasparente
If I understand correctly the translation from google you describe one of my preferred techniques. I also have a tutorial for it. ruclips.net/video/-9fLpzoKmQI/видео.html&lc=UgxY5kBzv4N_vZadHYR4AaABAg
Haven't modeled in decades ( 1/72 modern military jets ) but when I did, I masked canopies with Squadron's liquid masking. I poured some out in a small container and added the tiniest drop of liquid soap to prevent that surface tension problem.
Hi, Mate, greetings from Spain. I usually watch your videos to learn new techniques and they are really very usefull, thanks for your job. I would like to ask you if it would be possible for you to make a video on how to paint a black airplane. It is a technique that I cannot find anywhere and I would like to know how you would approach it. Again thank you very much
Beides sind für mich die übelsten Arten, Kanzeln zu maskieren, da immer die Gefahr besteht, abzurutschen, aus der Spur schneiden usw. - Ich begnüge mich mit den ganz schmalen Streifen zum Abdecken der Kontur ( Restflächen mit weiteren Stücken zudecken ) : ist viel genauer und auch viel leichter anzubringen als mit Fertigmasken, die oft eine zu große Fläche haben und das exakte Positionieren zum Geduldsspiel mutiert. Die "Streifchenmethode" ist zwar sehr aufwendig, aber man kann sich weitgehend sicher sein, daß es am Ende auch gut aussieht.
Vollkommen richtig ! Ist zwar eine arge Piddelei, beim Anbringen, wie auch beim Entfernen, aber so gut wie immer sehr sauber und scharf abgegrenzt ! Mache ich fast nur so, am Besten mit Vinylabklebeband in verschiedenen Breiten ( Gibt's bei Amazon z. B. von 1 bis 6mm Breite und mehr ) Vinyl hat auch den Vorteil, daß es für sehr scharfe und genaue Kanten geieignet ist, außerdem ist es leicht flexibel und folgt Rundungen sehr gut. Mein Problem bleiben allerdings evtl. vorhandene Rundungen, da muß ich doch schonmal mit dem scharfen Messer 'ran ...
To avoid wrinkles and bubbles, you can just simply cut very, very thin tapestripes or use Patafix (that poster stuff) for curved or complex areas. It's very cheap, leaves no residue and doesn't blurr our precious clearparts trust me. I use this method because LiquidMask is hard to come by in my country and shipment would cost more than the product itself.
Try white glue. Takes a little more effort due to surface tension, but it is available almost everywhere. Might be called craft glue, meant for use on paper and is none toxic.
I have tried several different ways to paint canopies and believe that thin strips around the glazing and liquid mask is best. If you don't have liquid mask then you can just fill in the glazing with more masking tape. Cutting in large tape doesn't give clean edges and hard to get round corners.
building models since 1972. not sure as a 3rd grader i could do this . i did get a nice hand at painting the framed by hand. even the tape idea would have sped up the build.
IMO clear tape is far more rigid than the masking tape and will have issues confirming. Further more it is almost guaranteed to leave some residue afrer removal.
@@MMScaleModels what if you put clear tape on cut out the windows so you won't have to guesstimate how close to the edges then put liquid mask over the windows then peel the clear tape off the part that will be painted ' paint an then remove the mask ? I'm new to modeling on my first aircraft well after I finish my 66 Shelby gt350h , an another question I want to try a razor an oil on the cockpit glass to slide down the seem line so I can try an avoid sanding an doing all that other stuff to get it clear but again anyway great video.
Once again the clear tape is too rigid to conform IMO, I have several canopy masking tutorials so if that is a concern for you I can suggest watching them. They synthesise years of mistakes and learning. You cannot remove the seam line without leaving a mark so some polishing will be necessary. Of course the smaller the mark the better.
I think the imperfections in masking are a benefit.....in real life most planes of this age or even later have chipping and uneven lines so it almost matches real life to have the imperfections.
That's from the brush and its not really cleaning but softening it enough to slide it out of the brush. I recently started using only silicone brushes for that... extremely easy to remove the mask of the brush after it dries.
Hello Metodi. I've got some general question. I often see in videos that you use a white or black filter, but you don't mention the company of it. Is it a homemade acrylic paint filter, diluted properly? Thanks.
Thin strips of ordinary masking tape is all I need. Follow the contour of the frame and then fill the unmasked area with wood glue (white one), no need for an expensive masking fluid.
@@MMScaleModels hi, thanks vor the Video, please can you test the Tip from maydaypc in a Tutorial? Perhaps with "Ponal Leim" and other white woodglue? Thx, greetings from Germany 😊🙋🏻♂️
Some are more expensive than others but generally I agree. It is not something that you can go trough fast enough to make any difference in the budget.
What was the name of that liquid mask that you use? I tried taking a quick photograph with my camera but I still could not really read the name on the bottle if you could let me know I'd greatly appreciate it thank you so much and I really enjoy the video on masking the canopies but that process will work on a lot of other models
Another tip is to use a nail-file to shape the tip of the toothpick. I tend to go for a flat rounded shape. It helps to prevent the tip pricking through the tape.
You're using the wrong knife blade. Triangular blades put all of the force on one point, which tends to drag through the tape and leave a tattered edge, whereas a curved scalpel-style blade will glide and slice cleanly.
Not necessarily IMO. If you use brand new blade there should be no dragging. Also my experience shows that I have to put more pressure on a curved blade to cut trough the tape. Of course that's my opinion only and does not make it universal truth :)
Never had good luck with masking fluid. I use tape and before painting spray clear gloss or Future over the tape to fill the gaps. Works good as long as you lightly trim with a knife blade before removing the tape.
You do realise that there are people / newbies out there who make models without all the professional tools etc.. what i mean is masking tape and a knife are the most basic items you need for canopies in my 30+ years of this hobby. i find liquids harder to use than tape and never recommend it any of my students. PPS -to label this video as *Most Dangerous* to me is to be fair YOUR opinion but WAY over the top. PPS show me a video of a 10 year old with a 1/72 lancaster canopy using your liquid technique... ok rant over!- I do admire some of your work..Not anti liquid i just think it has a different context and place.. Keep up the good work dude-lol!!
Hey mate, appreciate the critical look at the video. Probably I did not get my point clearly enough. I see none of this techniques good enough but one is much safer than the other. That's why I tell that there are two more tutorials on masking canopies that I have on the channel. I believe that the techniques there are better. Best regards
@@MMScaleModels Yeh soz for the rant..! Canopies are my nemisis sometimes and so found it hard as a Beginner to understand techniques based on 1/48th all the time.. A 1/72 Hurricane canopy is hard to mask whatever you use!!!-lol PPS -Back in the old days i just used to use a cocktail stick and dip the end in the paint to do canopies...!
@@MMScaleModels MM is a scale modeller, presenting to the emergency room, unconscious. Paramedics tell the admitting nurse that he had at least 2 seizures in the last 15 minutes. MM was greatly invested in his hobby as a scale modeller. On the 29th of May 2021, he uploaded a video. A video with the name of "The most DANGEROUS way to mask canopies". Before this video, he had fallen behind his upload schedule. MM broke up with his long time girlfriend and became depressed. For several months, he limited his time investment in his hobby because he didnt want to do anything. When things cleared up, MM needed to catch up on his video making schedule. He started maxing out his days, going from normal 24 hours to 32 hours. All these hours would be profitable in the end he thought. MM continued until he had an idea. A video about masking canopies, that should do the trick. He lurked on the internet, read many books, as minutes turned to hours, and hours turned to days. Finally, he had everything ready to start the video making progress.
@@MMScaleModels Maybe somewhat. But, then again, the latex only has to lay there until the paint is sprayed. No real loading or peeling action going on. Try it on a scrap part and see if it works to your pleasure or not.
@@MMScaleModels Yes I use Bare-metal for masking. I cut 1-2mm strip (with backing) and applied on clear parts along the frame, use toothpick, sharp knife to correct any overlap. Fill up the rest of glass with tapes or masking liquid. After painting, removing bare-metal by scratching with toothpick or make a scraper edge on piece of balsa. Use alcohol to clean residual glue afterwards. You can also experiment on Bare-metal on the frame itself, then apply dull coat of varnish, paint the frame with desired color. Cut/trim out glass part and removing them. I tried this once but need more practice.
@@MMScaleModels If you mean adhesive residue you have to use 3M electrical tape. You will get absolutely no adhesive left on the model when you lift the tape. Use a pencil eraser (the pink soft school erasers with the double sided slant cuts) to rub over the edges of the tape before you paint. You'll get contoured lines with no capillary action under tape edge...... Nice clean line. You can also use 3m electrical tape on 12 hours old paint finishes without finish peeling when you lift the tape.
@@MMScaleModels Also side note.... I was able to achieve the Raptor 'sheen ' by using testors metal master steel and titanium as the base color and camo print color and then using a semi gloss clear coat over that. The metallic color turns metallic grey. Different metallics turn different shades of grey.
Both methods bad and wrong. What I do... I use thin strips of mask tape, and also very small diameter mask tape figures as a round or circle to mask a corners whiches have slinky corners.
The first 1000 people to use the link will get a free trial of Skillshare Premium Membership: skl.sh/mmscalemodels05211
Cual la forma correcta de enmascarar la cabina de un avión respondeme por favor 👍🇨🇱✈️?
Thank you so much for getting back to me and letting me know about the liquid mask I do greatly appreciate that
Pro Tip: 1. Cut a piece of paper slightly smaller than the area to mask.
2. Trace it onto a piece of tape.
3. Put the tape on the canopy.
4. Use the masking fluid to fill the small gap between the tape and canopy frame.
This way you can use regular masking tape and save your expensive hobby tape for when you are masking lines etc. You also lose much less masking fluid and should have less surface tension issues.
Good tip mate 👍
@darkwood777 Say you're masking a canopy and the area you are trying to mask is 5mm x 5mm. Cut a small square of tape 4mm x 4mm and place it over the space to be masked. Now around the edge of the tape you'll still have 0.5mm space all around that needs masking. Fill that small area with the masking fluid, overlapping the tape a bit so you get the whole area masked.
Hört sich äußerst kompliziert an - viel zu umständlich !
IMO, It doesn't make sense to use masking fluid to fill the gape between tape and frame. The reason why we do the tape masking is because hand will shake and the frame will looks not as straight as in real life even your painting skill is excellent.
@@freakycat1795 That's why I said pro tip. Us pros don't have shaky hands.
I have been using your other method of taping and liquid mask. Cutting a narrow strip of tape for the edges and liquid mask the center sections works the best, for me. I avoided models with a lot of clear parts until I learned your other method. Works GREAT! Thank you again.
Glad it worked out for you, it's my preferred method as well 👍
I used the Tamiya tape and did it exactly as you did only when I had the lines marked with a super fine artist felt marker, I would remove the tape and cut the section with scissors then reattach the tape. I’ve tried too many times to cut along the canopy frame lines and ended up with a totally ruined canopy. My eyesight is not very good now so I don’t build models anymore. Age catches up with all of us. LOL! Anyway, your tutorials are always a pleasure to watch and very helpful.
Best wishes!
Thanks Michael!
I've used Elmer's white glue before. I think everybody calls it PVA now,but I'm a simple guy. Use several layers of glue. Worked for me.
If it works for you that's great
Yeah Tom, so do I. It works just as good as masking fluid, and is a lot cheaper.
I really need to improve in this area. You're tutorial is a big help.
Glad to help mate!
Pretty much a perfect take on this somewhat convenient but problematic method. I've already enjoyed your other tutorials on masking, thank you very much for the knowledge. I learn something every time I watch your videos ( I got a whole lot to learn, but still).
The ad wasn't too bad (I hate ads) because it was in your voice, which I've come to trust. Not over loud, not flashy graphics, just an honest endorsement. Hope it helps you to make a living doing this, because you're awfully good at it.
Thanks mate 👍, i am not making enough for the living but at least I can justify the time spent. I have a job for the rest 😁
I use PVA glue and using a tooth pick to fill in the parts I don't want to paint! and it peels off easy after! cheers
Pretty much the same as liquid mask ain't it?
@@MMScaleModels I guess so, but cheaper!
I'm new to this, could you recommend a brand?
I am very happy with the Abteilung brand
Something else to add and this would apply to ALL masks....If your having trouble positioning the thin stripes of tape...Mix up some water and dish detergent. Not a lot of the detergent is needed. Apply to the area and it reduces the "stickiness" of the tape so you can move it around. Once its in position just use a paper towel/Q tip etc and press it down and remove the water. The tape will stick as normal. Of course, I would let it dry thoroughly before painting.
Doesn't it take too much adhesion away?
@@MMScaleModels Not in my experience. Started using this technique with vinyl masks and then tried using it with household "low tac" painters tape. No issues thus far. The key is to make sure you blot all the water/soap mixture and give it some time to dry. I should have also said in my OP that you should go back and burnish down the tape to insure it HAS NOT come loose.
Great, thanks for the tip mate 👍
Great video, stumbled across it and was hypnotized by the tutorials!
Thanks mate 👍
I find that if the canopy has a coating of Future (or equivalent) on it there are no surface tension issues with liquid masking media. It will hold its place easily. A very light pass with a sharp blade along the edges when done painting seems to help get a better edge.
Good tip, thanks
I tried your other method for the first time last night and it was way easier than it looked. Albeit, it was only a 1/72 2 section cockpit. Thin strips of tape and infilling will likely be my way forward.
Thanks buddy
IMO it does not matter the type of canopy, its the same process only takes longer for the more intricate canopies.
A few small drops of Acrylic flow improver into the masking fluid makes it more viscous and flows lovely over clear parts. Two coats of masking works really nice.
7:14 if you get some paint where you dont want it to be, just dip a toothpick in thinner and remove the excess paint, worked for me every time
Doesn't it react with the clear plastic 🤔
@@MMScaleModels i used hataka orange line thinner and it doesnt :) idk about others
Great look at something that I always wanted to improve but didn't know how, thank you
I have a couple more different techniques for canopy masking on the channel, might want to check them out.
@@MMScaleModels thanks I will
Many thank's for all your to the point and educating tutorials, I much appreciatie them!
Thanks for watching mate 👍
Thx for this info. Ive been doing it all wrong! This is a huge help.
Great to know this helps mate, I have a few tutorials at different canopy masking techniques that might be helpful as well.
Thank you for improving my opinion on this matter. I had never liked this kind of masking method, mostly because of being afraid to sudden damage of clear part especially after future cover. I use tiny lining with a tamiya masking tape on borders and filling inner space with patafix or liquid mask. Agree with you for 100%. But if canopy if too difficult to paint accurate i prefer to spend some money not wasting my efforts with model on final painting stage!
Sure, die- cut masks are probably the best option for greenhouse canopies so it's worth spending some money.
Thank you for sharing these techniques. Painting the canopy frames have always been a bit of a pain for me.
Thanks for watching mate 👍
Hello my friend. I simply use narrow masking tape, like 5mm wide. If it is not flexible enough to bend sideways with the contours, I will cut the tape in half (or less) lengthwise. The more narrow the tape, the more sideways it can go without crumpling. Follow the contours you're trying to mask using the side of the tape that has the straight factory cut edge (not the side you cut by hand).
Great topic to cover! Pun intended. =8-)
Cheers from, Gulag Ontario, Canada.
Subed!
Thanks for the feedback mate, I also use similar method for the canopies: ruclips.net/video/-9fLpzoKmQI/видео.html
I struggle with masking, I find the easiest way is to just use a small brush & wipe away any mistakes with the tip of a toothpick before it can dry
If ot works for you then that's all that matters 👍
I use to paint canopies...then I found a way to easily paint canopies. I lay out blue masking tape and spray paint the color of the aircraft on the tape, then I use a very sharp X-acto blade - metal ruler and cut very thin strips off the painted masking tape- then I apply it to the canopy. Looks real good and sharp when all is done.
What about lifting and peeling of the tape. Are those concerns?
@@MMScaleModels good blue tape stays on for decades.
I use thin strips of tamiya tape cut with a hobby knife to mask the edges of the canopy. I fill the outline with masking fluid. No worry about damaging the canopy.
That's my preferred way too. I have a tutorial on it somewhere here :)
wOW, VERY SIMPLE AND VERY LOGIC AS WELL. Thank you. I guess that for me it's enough with the first option. Either way I'm watching your other videos about masking
I hope you'll find them helpful as well :)
I make a plaster mold from the kit canopy and vacu-form a new thinner one and then use transparent tape or liquid mask to mask the frame for painting. Makes a very realistically thin window or canopy.
Agree, do you gave a diy vac-former or you bought one? Also do you drill holes in the mold?
@@MMScaleModels I used a Mattel Vacu-form toy. The molds are made taking the original kit canopy upside-down in a cup of plaster, using clay dams as necessary,
and let it set. Then after removing the original canopy pattern I do drill tiny holes along the frames, which makes little bumps which I sand off later, which helps pull the styrene or acetate down into the mold.
@@maxcorey8144 what thickness acetate do you use?
Muy buen trabajo , y gracias eternas por subtitular en español..👍❤.
Thanks for watching mate!
I cut thing strips of vinyl it curves very nicely to any shape and a very crisp lines
Thank you for a good tutorial. Look forward to seeing more.
Thanks for watching!
Good advice
I hope it's usefull
I find it good lightly scratching the lines near the frameswith a toothpick once ive took the tape off, only if it really needs it
which lines?
@@MMScaleModels ones that get down the edge in between the tape and the canopy frames
Wow, I have to tried that, thanks.
When I got back into the hobby a couple of years ago, I used a knife directly on the clear plastic to cut away tape for canopy masks. I learned the hard way why that's a bad idea,
Yeah, I ruined a canopy or two as well.
Excelente video y enseñanza ✈️🇨🇱👍 me encanta el aeromodelismo ✈️🇨🇱
Thanks mate!
How hard would it be for kit manufacturers to premask canopies and other clear plastic pieces?
Very... it all have to be done by hand. Besides after some time sitting on shelves the masks may ruin the clear parts.
I prefer laser cut masks but they are not always avaliable and rare. I waited 5 weeks for my B-17 masks. Great tutorial. Subscribed!
Thanks mate 👍
Yeah, using both methods have their disadvantages. I've used both of them, and found that I can live with the small amount of inaacuracy of cutting the tape to shape, but can't live with how the liquid mask peeled some of the paint off in the wrong place :(
True, that's why i am not using any of them. Strips of tape work nicely IMO.
@@MMScaleModels awesome!
Can you not run a razor knife along the making liquid mask edges so you can get a sharp edge when you peel it up? Just a question and not a criticism.
@@josephking6515 might as well have just used tape and cut around it if you’re using a knife I suppose. Plus, there will be little bits of liquid mask left behind if you do cut on it, which will peel off at some point abyway
Some masking liquids allow that others do not.
With canopies that have faint frame detail, such as vac formed ones. I have cut thin pieces of tamiya type tape and made the frame on the canopy frames. I then used that as a guide to mask the clear parts off.
Yes that's a good method but a bit limited when things start to get curvy
@@MMScaleModels It has happened, I take my best guess at that point.
Man I hate built-in ads (on top of RUclips ads)...so many of them everywhere you go and quite frustrating!!
Anyway.... great tutorial!
Thanks 👍... I gues you enjoy a paycheck from time to time... me too ;)
Moved away from masking fluids, masking tapes, etc. What I do now -and it is a lot of work, is use aluminum metal foil (the thinnest you can find, no more than 3-4 mil thick) which is cut in strips matching the canopy's frame width, paint the foil and apply a sealant then apply to frame, most realistic frames I've ever done. Any chipping of the paint is minor and adds to realism, but can be touched up if you don't want any chipping.
Definitely an interesting approach, thanks for sharing.
Случайно попаднах на този канал, и по акцента разпознах сънародник :)
силно съм впечетлен, не знаех че има такива канали от българи, ще изгледам всичко с удоволствие :)
Привет, пожелавам приятно гледане 🙂.
Не знам дали има други български колеги моделисти в RUclips, до сега не съм срещал
Es uno de los pasos q no me agradan en este hobby. Pero hay q hacerlos si se desea pulcritud en esos cristales. 👍👍
True, but once you get the hang of it it gets easier. This is my preferred way of masking canopies: ruclips.net/video/-9fLpzoKmQI/видео.html
I cut and use thin strips from old decals and stick them on canopy frame instead of painting. Much much much easier than masking and painting.
I have used this technique before, but I still prefer masking... to each it's own I guess :)
Hai ragione, dopo molti esperimenti ho optato per un metodo più lungo e farraginoso ma più sicuro e poco costoso. Nastro da carrozziere tagliato su misura e applicato in piccoli pezzi a seconda della complessità del tettuccio trasparente
If I understand correctly the translation from google you describe one of my preferred techniques. I also have a tutorial for it. ruclips.net/video/-9fLpzoKmQI/видео.html&lc=UgxY5kBzv4N_vZadHYR4AaABAg
@@MMScaleModels esatto è proprio così meglio mettere più tempo per ottenere un risultato migliore👍💯 e più sicuro.
Thanks for the info mate. Great 😉
Thanks for watching mate 👍
I use pva glue to mask clear parts like this, they work great in my experience
Good to know!
Haven't modeled in decades ( 1/72 modern military jets ) but when I did, I masked canopies with Squadron's liquid masking. I poured some out in a small container and added the tiniest drop of liquid soap to prevent that surface tension problem.
Good tip mate 👍
Wonderful...
🏅👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽🏆
🇧🇷
Thanks mate
Hi, Mate, greetings from Spain. I usually watch your videos to learn new techniques and they are really very usefull, thanks for your job. I would like to ask you if it would be possible for you to make a video on how to paint a black airplane. It is a technique that I cannot find anywhere and I would like to know how you would approach it. Again thank you very much
I haven't painted a black airplane so far but when I get the chance i will definitely show the process here :)
Beides sind für mich die übelsten Arten, Kanzeln zu maskieren, da immer die Gefahr besteht, abzurutschen, aus der Spur schneiden usw. - Ich begnüge mich mit den ganz schmalen Streifen zum Abdecken der Kontur ( Restflächen mit weiteren Stücken zudecken ) : ist viel genauer und auch viel leichter anzubringen als mit Fertigmasken, die oft eine zu große Fläche haben und das exakte Positionieren zum Geduldsspiel mutiert. Die "Streifchenmethode" ist zwar sehr aufwendig, aber man kann sich weitgehend sicher sein, daß es am Ende auch gut aussieht.
My preferred method as well.
Vollkommen richtig ! Ist zwar eine arge Piddelei, beim Anbringen, wie auch beim Entfernen, aber so gut wie immer sehr sauber und scharf abgegrenzt ! Mache ich fast nur so, am Besten mit Vinylabklebeband in verschiedenen Breiten ( Gibt's bei Amazon z. B. von 1 bis 6mm Breite und mehr ) Vinyl hat auch den Vorteil, daß es für sehr scharfe und genaue Kanten geieignet ist, außerdem ist es leicht flexibel und folgt Rundungen sehr gut. Mein Problem bleiben allerdings evtl. vorhandene Rundungen, da muß ich doch schonmal mit dem scharfen Messer 'ran ...
Spray clear gloss on first before the colour and let it go off for a while, then the colour, this stop colour bleed under the masking.
Now that's a cool Idea, thanks for sharing!
What is the canopy for?
A-26/B-26 Invader in 1/48
@@MMScaleModels thanks
Black, Electrican's Tape WILL turn corners pretty good and is sticks good, also, Bare Metal Foil, use a brand new blade
I have issues with leftover residue from those.
The best way to make masks is to define the area with a sharpen pensil and then cut with a hobby knife or scissors the defined area.
That's one of the methods I suggested in my other tuttorials.
To avoid wrinkles and bubbles, you can just simply cut very, very thin tapestripes or use Patafix (that poster stuff) for curved or complex areas. It's very cheap, leaves no residue and doesn't blurr our precious clearparts trust me. I use this method because LiquidMask is hard to come by in my country and shipment would cost more than the product itself.
Thanks for the info!
Try white glue. Takes a little more effort due to surface tension, but it is available almost everywhere. Might be called craft glue, meant for use on paper and is none toxic.
I have tried several different ways to paint canopies and believe that thin strips around the glazing and liquid mask is best. If you don't have liquid mask then you can just fill in the glazing with more masking tape. Cutting in large tape doesn't give clean edges and hard to get round corners.
My thoughts exactly. I even have a tutorial on this method 👍
building models since 1972. not sure as a 3rd grader i could do this . i did get a nice hand at painting the framed by hand. even the tape idea would have sped up the build.
There is a learning curve to it :)
Has anyone tried clear tape over the whole thing then cut out just where you want paint
IMO clear tape is far more rigid than the masking tape and will have issues confirming. Further more it is almost guaranteed to leave some residue afrer removal.
@@MMScaleModels what if you put clear tape on cut out the windows so you won't have to guesstimate how close to the edges then put liquid mask over the windows then peel the clear tape off the part that will be painted ' paint an then remove the mask ? I'm new to modeling on my first aircraft well after I finish my 66 Shelby gt350h , an another question I want to try a razor an oil on the cockpit glass to slide down the seem line so I can try an avoid sanding an doing all that other stuff to get it clear but again anyway great video.
Once again the clear tape is too rigid to conform IMO, I have several canopy masking tutorials so if that is a concern for you I can suggest watching them. They synthesise years of mistakes and learning. You cannot remove the seam line without leaving a mark so some polishing will be necessary. Of course the smaller the mark the better.
I think the imperfections in masking are a benefit.....in real life most planes of this age or even later have chipping and uneven lines so it almost matches real life to have the imperfections.
They do have imperfections indeed but i don't think they would be that visible... you know... scale effect :)
Did you say you use acetone to clean dry 502 liquid mask?
Just confirming for someone in a FB group.
That's from the brush and its not really cleaning but softening it enough to slide it out of the brush. I recently started using only silicone brushes for that... extremely easy to remove the mask of the brush after it dries.
Currently trying to mask a 1/72 Hasegawa A6M2b Zero canopy and it's a nightmare.
I know, it is frustrating on some models but that's more experience under the belt
I wish they came with 10 copies of the canopy
ну еще бы!это какой масштаб то!
1/48
@@MMScaleModels чот не заметно
Hello Metodi. I've got some general question. I often see in videos that you use a white or black filter, but you don't mention the company of it. Is it a homemade acrylic paint filter, diluted properly? Thanks.
Exactly, my own mix. Can be acrylics or solvent based paits.
@@MMScaleModels thank you so much for your answer. could you precise which ratio you usually use (color/thinner)? thank you.
I just hate masking 1/72 canopies, some kits have very faint lines so I've used Bare Metal Foil
True but I have big difficulties removing the foil when i am dome painting.
Just paint pva glue onto canopy frame,then peel of later
If that's what works for you then awesome 👌
Спасибо! Безусловно жидкая маска лучше, чем липкая лента.
In this case yes, but when properly applied tape is better
@@MMScaleModels Спасибо за ответ! И творческих успехов. ;-))
Thin strips of ordinary masking tape is all I need. Follow the contour of the frame and then fill the unmasked area with wood glue (white one), no need for an expensive masking fluid.
Good tip mate 👍
@@MMScaleModels hi, thanks vor the Video, please can you test the Tip from maydaypc in a Tutorial? Perhaps with "Ponal Leim" and other white woodglue?
Thx, greetings from Germany 😊🙋🏻♂️
My tutorial with the Corsair canopy is describing pretty much the same technique, check it out. There is a link in the description.
Some are more expensive than others but generally I agree. It is not something that you can go trough fast enough to make any difference in the budget.
Copydex rubber solution works well as a masking fluid, if you can put up with the smell.....😁
Never heard of that substance. Masking fluid does have some smell as well.
@@MMScaleModels
Copydex is usually used to stick card and paper together, so you might find it in your local stationers.
Cheers!😀
Cheers mate
I'm using PVA liquid mask. Dissolve in water. Resist everything else, including epoxy.
I've tried both methods but prefer using tamiya tape. I've got it down to an art.
Good for you mate, must have eagle vision and steady hand 👍
@@MMScaleModels Are you kidding...I use strong reading glasses and one of those lighted magnifiers on an arm, both at the same time.
A100% in agreement
The proble is you are using somthing harder to get then normal masking I whole use yore method but only if i can find it
Just use Parafilm M. Conforms to everything.
but still have to be cut directly on the part.
@@MMScaleModels Of course, but with so little pressure, you can cut directly on paint
Why not just use masking fluid instead of tape for canopies?
Masking fluid does not cut the paint as nicely as the masking tape does.
It would be better if you would have showed us what technique u use and works for you all the time. Quick and to the point.
I have done just that in muliple videos ;)
Сразу вспомнил из мультика выражение: ГРЕМЛИН ФРОМ КРЕМЛИН. Акцент у тебя конечно адовый :)
What was the name of that liquid mask that you use? I tried taking a quick photograph with my camera but I still could not really read the name on the bottle if you could let me know I'd greatly appreciate it thank you so much and I really enjoy the video on masking the canopies but that process will work on a lot of other models
Abteilung Liquid Mask: amzn.to/3sX2ROp
Another tip is to use a nail-file to shape the tip of the toothpick. I tend to go for a flat rounded shape.
It helps to prevent the tip pricking through the tape.
That's a good one, thanks!
You're using the wrong knife blade. Triangular blades put all of the force on one point, which tends to drag through the tape and leave a tattered edge, whereas a curved scalpel-style blade will glide and slice cleanly.
Not necessarily IMO. If you use brand new blade there should be no dragging. Also my experience shows that I have to put more pressure on a curved blade to cut trough the tape. Of course that's my opinion only and does not make it universal truth :)
Glad to know I'm not the only person that , despite all efforts, still get it wrong.
It's a tricky business... it is not wrong if you manage to pull it off but there are a few traps :)
I prefer cutting the tape as I personally have gotten really good at it and I frankly don’t have or want to spend money on masking fluid
Good for you mate 👍
use a sharpie marker
That is an option too 👍
Never had good luck with masking fluid. I use tape and before painting spray clear gloss or Future over the tape to fill the gaps. Works good as long as you lightly trim with a knife blade before removing the tape.
How do you remove the future from the canopy?
🤦ive got a fw-189 and i have no mascol or canopy pre cut so i guess im doing it this way 🥲
Check the rest of my masking tutorials. You may find more suitable solutions there.
@@MMScaleModels ok thanks
Easy solution use liquid masking or paint section needing paint with permanent marker
You'll need hell of a permanent marker color selection 🙂
@@MMScaleModels well, extra fine black and silver will work on most models
You understand that there are ppl who don't even use masking fluid (as nice as it is). They just thin wood glue with tap water.
If it works for them that's great, I don't mind but prefer using ready made products. It's easier and the cost is not much higher IMO
I used elmers glue since i dont have liquid mask available lol
Well sometimes we have to use what we have.
Eeeuh i am perplexe....
Is a good or no good technique ?
In my opinion - no.
You do realise that there are people / newbies out there who make models without all the professional tools etc..
what i mean is masking tape and a knife are the most basic items you need for canopies in my 30+ years of this hobby.
i find liquids harder to use than tape and never recommend it any of my students.
PPS -to label this video as *Most Dangerous* to me is to be fair YOUR opinion but WAY over the top.
PPS show me a video of a 10 year old with a 1/72 lancaster canopy using your liquid technique...
ok rant over!-
I do admire some of your work..Not anti liquid i just think it has a different context and place..
Keep up the good work dude-lol!!
Hey mate, appreciate the critical look at the video. Probably I did not get my point clearly enough. I see none of this techniques good enough but one is much safer than the other. That's why I tell that there are two more tutorials on masking canopies that I have on the channel. I believe that the techniques there are better.
Best regards
@@MMScaleModels Yeh soz for the rant..!
Canopies are my nemisis sometimes and so found it hard as a Beginner to understand techniques based on 1/48th all the time..
A 1/72 Hurricane canopy is hard to mask whatever you use!!!-lol
PPS -Back in the old days i just used to use a cocktail stick and dip the end in the paint to do canopies...!
A man masked the canopy of his model plane. This is what happend to his kidneys.
What happened?
@@MMScaleModels MM is a scale modeller, presenting to the emergency room, unconscious.
Paramedics tell the admitting nurse that he had at least 2 seizures in the last 15 minutes.
MM was greatly invested in his hobby as a scale modeller.
On the 29th of May 2021, he uploaded a video.
A video with the name of "The most DANGEROUS way to mask canopies".
Before this video, he had fallen behind his upload schedule.
MM broke up with his long time girlfriend and became depressed.
For several months, he limited his time investment in his hobby because he didnt want to do anything.
When things cleared up, MM needed to catch up on his video making schedule.
He started maxing out his days, going from normal 24 hours to 32 hours.
All these hours would be profitable in the end he thought.
MM continued until he had an idea. A video about masking canopies, that should do the trick.
He lurked on the internet, read many books, as minutes turned to hours, and hours turned to days.
Finally, he had everything ready to start the video making progress.
@@danieldorn9989 Dude 🤣
If you add a drop of dish soap to the latex mask, it will kill the surface tension and it will stop crawling around after you apply it.
Yes I do this to acrylics sometimes. Did not think it will work with the mask
@@MMScaleModels Maybe somewhat. But, then again, the latex only has to lay there until the paint is sprayed. No real loading or peeling action going on. Try it on a scrap part and see if it works to your pleasure or not.
For sure, thanks for the tip mate 👍
Mm scale models:this video is not intended for people under age of 14
Me who is 12:
Heh, goverments around the world want to protect you from something.
@@MMScaleModels from making scale models?
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You can add Bare-Metal Foil to your bag of tricks.
For masking?
@@MMScaleModels Yes I use Bare-metal for masking. I cut 1-2mm strip (with backing) and applied on clear parts along the frame, use toothpick, sharp knife to correct any overlap. Fill up the rest of glass with tapes or masking liquid. After painting, removing bare-metal by scratching with toothpick or make a scraper edge on piece of balsa. Use alcohol to clean residual glue afterwards.
You can also experiment on Bare-metal on the frame itself, then apply dull coat of varnish, paint the frame with desired color. Cut/trim out glass part and removing them. I tried this once but need more practice.
I use scotch tape, easy to install, cuts at first, paint doesn’t get underside…. Give it a try..
How's the residue?
use electrical tape.
no winkles, tight seam, cuts easy, and flexes around turns and bends.
I tried that long time ago and I am not happy with the residue,
@@MMScaleModels
If you mean adhesive residue you have to use 3M electrical tape.
You will get absolutely no adhesive left on the model when you lift the tape. Use a pencil eraser (the pink soft school erasers with the double sided slant cuts) to rub over the edges of the tape before you paint.
You'll get contoured lines with no capillary action under tape edge...... Nice clean line.
You can also use 3m electrical tape on 12 hours old paint finishes without finish peeling when you lift the tape.
@@MMScaleModels
Also side note....
I was able to achieve the Raptor 'sheen ' by using testors metal master steel and titanium as the base color and camo print color and then using a semi gloss clear coat over that. The metallic color turns metallic grey. Different metallics turn different shades of grey.
日本語字幕有難い
Welcome, hope they work well.
1:45
Either you diluted it too muvh or it is not the best masking solution.
Both methods bad and wrong. What I do... I use thin strips of mask tape, and also very small diameter mask tape figures as a round or circle to mask a corners whiches have slinky corners.
That was the point of the video... what not to do.
Yeah! My man got a sponsor!
Yeah, let's see how this will work out. I don't want to lose viewers because of an ad :)
Step one, Google eduard. Job done 🙃
That's one way