I modified my ATU100 as Rafael suggested using a couple of radial lead 1N5711, as suggested. It is surprising how much better it now works. The tuner is more stable and, subjectively, faster. I also have to compliment the video. I love the detail and description. Well done! Thanks Rafael.
Excellent well detailed suggestions. Thank you. It's my habit from the old days to place a bounce elimition capacitor across switches. It works for RF interference too. As for power lines and audio lines I use twisted pair with shield.
I haven't built my kit yet, but I do have a few thousand old HP1N5711's, so I'll carefully match a pair with 5 watts applied on 20 meters and install them. Thank you for the info.
Rafael, excellent info, now I have some work to on my kit built ATU-100, thank you very much for this video de VE7KKQ, 73, Merry Christmas (10 days away, 2023).
Rafael - My kit arrived. It had some sort of glass surface mount diode 655mv Forward voltage and 15pf. I replace with matched set of 1N34 with 435mv and 13pf. Still building kit. I'll let you know how it works out.
Outstanding work, my friend. Super explanation of that. I've got the parts in hand, i'll be upgrading mine as soon as the shop is not -9C. Thanks for the info, and I subscribed!
Hey Andy!! Nice to have you here, and I hope this video will help you! Actually I'm embarrassed I never added more content to the channel. I have a lot of plans but procrastination always wins!
Hi Rafael, Thanks again for the video. Obtaining original ST micro 1N5711 or BAT41 thc is a challenge as is 1N5711W SOD-123 (Marking Code "SA") and BAT41ZFILM SOD-123 (Marking Code "Z41").
Amazing! Easy to follow your reasoning, and some excellent thoughts on enhancing the SWR circuit - got me thinking about upgrading my SWR bridges with alternative diodes you have suggested. (Most already have the 1N60, so I don't expect much improvement, although the BAT62 microwave diode appeals to me for UHF use).
The main reason BAT62 is fine is because of its ludicrously low junction capacitance. I recently found out that 1N5711 diodes show a less steeper knee than the modern BAT diodes, so now I favor the latter.
Excelentes explicaciones, Rafael. De acuerdo con ambos videos. Otro punto de mejora, estaría de nuevo en el acoplador direccional. Pienso que este debería usar obligatoriamente transformadores separados e idénticos para mejorar en mucho la directividad, cosa que ahora no sucede. Eso de compartir el mismo núcleo magnético con un trafo binocular, no parece una buena solución técnica en este caso, aunque si es sencilla y barata. Se trata del ajuste de precios por parte de los productos realizados en China.Lo mismo que no emplear unos sencillos y comunes 1N5711, en lugar de cualquier cosa que parezca un diodo, que como bien explicas, mejoran el rendimiento de la medidas, con solo su simple sustitución. Un abrazo. 73's
O transformador do acoplador é, sem dúvida, um ponto a ser melhorado. O núcleo binocular não é adequado, pois não há o mesmo fluxo magnético nos dois transformadores. Desta forma acaba ocorrendo acoplamento entre as medidas que distorce os valores nos casos mais extremos.
Nice work. To the point and “followable”. Your simulation was grand. Thanks very much!! Now, where should be buy our ATU-100 to get the correct (not fake) toroids and diodes?
..... Nice job!! just one tiny point, my ATU does have small value SMD power supply bypass capacitors, mounted where the electrolytics are..... {Can't have too many supply decouplers, mind!! } . G4ZWI
This video convinced me to get an ATU100 knowing it can be 'suped up'. Must torroid rings be used or if I have some spare clip-on ferrite clamps typically used for power supply wires and display cables suffice?
My recent Aliexpress kit purchase has 2 glass SMT diodes. If there is a parts code on them, I'm never going to be able to read it :-) Any idea what part they may be? I have not assembled the kit yet, so it might make sense for me to address the diode issue as part of my build (if there even is an issue!). Many thanks. John, VK4Tj.
John, it is really hard to know. Having two of the same diodes is a huge step in the right direction, though. I would guess they are the correct BAT41 diodes, but so many diodes are similar...
Ideally, yes, but then the front panel would be cramped. There is an alternative design with separate RF and digital/power boards that makes much more sense. If you think about commercial transceivers, the PA, tuner and receiver board are three separate boards and the digital logic is even one more board.
Olá Rafael! Teve contato com o ATU-130? Dizem ser uma versão melhorada desses ATU-100. Seria interessante saber sua opinião sobre a evolução nesses projetos e se houve melhoria de design e qc. Forte 73 PU1KVD
Opa! Ainda não, mas pelo que vi nas fotos eles reorganizaram a PCB, colocando os indutores e capacitores "por fora" e os relés pra dentro. Também parece usar indutores mais grossos, pra suportar mais corrente. Tirando isso, parece ser o mesmo processador e o desenho da ponte de swr parece o mesmo. Estou falando isso somente olhando pras fotos, sem ver um esquemático... Em relação a evolução, o @Temporarily Offline mostrou outro modelo que usa uma placa para o RF e outra pro controlador. Esse eu considero evolução, pois permite que se coloque uma blindagem separando as partes (isso não vem pronto, mas é uma melhoria possível)
@@rafaelgcpp Encontrei o canal do fabricante do AT-100M no RUclips. Saiu firmware nova dele dia 11/08 e está em prototipagem de um AT-100M-pro. Segundo ele: "The maximum total capacitance of AT-100M is 1869pf, and the inductance is 8.42uh. The total capacitance of the Pro version is 3869pf, and the inductance is 17.6uh".
Hello! Sorry for my question. I have the same antenna tuner. The antenna is connected to the input ANT, and from the connector RF IN there is a connection to the transceiver, so connect it correctly. Or vice versa. Please inform. Thank you.
opa! vc faz esse ajuste comercialmente? se não teria alguem pra indicar? Preferencialmente em SP já que moro aqui, mas tbm poderia enviar o equipamento. obrigado! 73
Vitor, não faço comercialmente não. São componentes muito pequenos e como faço o retrabalho com uma estação de solda comum, tem muito risco de arrancar a ilha. Por isso faço no meu, mas não no dos outros! Mas antes de mexer no ATU, é importante identificar os diodos. As vezes não precisa mexer e está tudo certo, outras vezes tem problema, mas não são os diodos. O Smoking Ape estava com um que tinha diodos certos, mas aparentemente o ferrite errado.
Thanks for the advice on this. I found a mis matched pair at D1 & D2 of my ATU-100 board thankfully before building. Great tips Rafael 73. Mike @merseyradar
maybe a good idea to fit silver mica caps as well,my c2 100pf fried replaced with a 750v 100pf silver mica,the chineese kits have smd ceramics not silver mica,also the diodes dont match on mine one is a flat smt type the other glass!,these have zero qc,had one of mine arrive with a blanc pic 16f1938 as well,its pot luck,first ebay kit had the button+headers missing(but got a full refund) ,first aliexpress kit had a blanc pic,second kit from aliexpress has missing headers for the power and the button but two extra 47uf electrolytic caps,its totaly pot luck.
I modified my ATU100 as Rafael suggested using a couple of radial lead 1N5711, as suggested. It is surprising how much better it now works. The tuner is more stable and, subjectively, faster. I also have to compliment the video. I love the detail and description. Well done! Thanks Rafael.
Good to see you online. Rio booms in here often. n2eye, NY City
Great job Rafael, will use this on my ATU. Regards from Serbia
Excellent well detailed suggestions. Thank you. It's my habit from the old days to place a bounce elimition capacitor across switches. It works for RF interference too. As for power lines and audio lines I use twisted pair with shield.
Excellent video! Also, I suspect if Ape passes his GMRS exam, it will be a Christmas miracle!
Thanks Lionel! Let's all pray for that miracle to happen.
Obrigado Rafael. You talked me into getting an ATU100 - Dean KC3JXT
Thank you for watching my video!
I haven't built my kit yet, but I do have a few thousand old HP1N5711's, so I'll carefully match a pair with 5 watts applied on 20 meters and install them. Thank you for the info.
Rafael, excellent info, now I have some work to on my kit built ATU-100, thank you very much for this video de VE7KKQ, 73, Merry Christmas (10 days away, 2023).
Awesome stuff!
Rafael - My kit arrived. It had some sort of glass surface mount diode 655mv Forward voltage and 15pf. I replace with matched set of 1N34 with 435mv and 13pf. Still building kit. I'll let you know how it works out.
655mV and 15pf sounds like 1N4148 to me. 1N34 will work fine!
Fantastic work Rafael! Thanks for sharing. Subbed
My pleasure! I'm kind of worried because the story line of my next video is becoming a Hollywood movie...
@@rafaelgcpp multi-part journey?
@@temporarilyoffline that might work. One video to set the scene, cliffhanger, and resolution on a second video...
@@rafaelgcpp and all in a playlist and with end screens so RUclips knows how to link them together!
Outstanding work, my friend. Super explanation of that. I've got the parts in hand, i'll be upgrading mine as soon as the shop is not -9C. Thanks for the info, and I subscribed!
Glad you liked, and thank you for subscribing!
Excellent Rafael, well done. Slightly embarrassed I just found your channel..Thank you
Hey Andy!! Nice to have you here, and I hope this video will help you!
Actually I'm embarrassed I never added more content to the channel. I have a lot of plans but procrastination always wins!
@@rafaelgcpp it does for sure! I thought about buying the 1000w kit version of this ATU. I still might. Looks like a fun build
Hi Rafael, Thanks again for the video. Obtaining original ST micro 1N5711 or BAT41 thc is a challenge as is 1N5711W SOD-123 (Marking Code "SA") and BAT41ZFILM SOD-123 (Marking Code "Z41").
Really helpful, I learned a lot in this one video, I hope you will make more.
Thanks! I have a few planned, but my real job is taking a lot of my time...
just ordered a kit. ill check out what diodes are in it and look into replacing them. and I will definitely be doing your suggestions
kit is here. just ordered 6 of the diodes. Ill see if I cant get a decently matched pair.
Great advice, thanks!
I'm just putting one of these together. thanks for the tips much appreciated
Great news ! Looking forward to more great videos from you.
awesome video
Amazing! Easy to follow your reasoning, and some excellent thoughts on enhancing the SWR circuit - got me thinking about upgrading my SWR bridges with alternative diodes you have suggested. (Most already have the 1N60, so I don't expect much improvement, although the BAT62 microwave diode appeals to me for UHF use).
The main reason BAT62 is fine is because of its ludicrously low junction capacitance.
I recently found out that 1N5711 diodes show a less steeper knee than the modern BAT diodes, so now I favor the latter.
@@rafaelgcpp Thank you 👍
Congrats
Excelentes explicaciones, Rafael. De acuerdo con ambos videos.
Otro punto de mejora, estaría de nuevo en el acoplador direccional.
Pienso que este debería usar obligatoriamente transformadores separados e idénticos para mejorar en mucho la directividad, cosa que ahora no sucede.
Eso de compartir el mismo núcleo magnético con un trafo binocular, no parece una buena solución técnica en este caso, aunque si es sencilla y barata.
Se trata del ajuste de precios por parte de los productos realizados en China.Lo mismo que no emplear unos sencillos y comunes 1N5711, en lugar de cualquier cosa que parezca un diodo, que como bien explicas, mejoran el rendimiento de la medidas, con solo su simple sustitución.
Un abrazo.
73's
O transformador do acoplador é, sem dúvida, um ponto a ser melhorado.
O núcleo binocular não é adequado, pois não há o mesmo fluxo magnético nos dois transformadores. Desta forma acaba ocorrendo acoplamento entre as medidas que distorce os valores nos casos mais extremos.
Really valuable, thank you very much!!! 73
Nice work. To the point and “followable”. Your simulation was grand. Thanks very much!! Now, where should be buy our ATU-100 to get the correct (not fake) toroids and diodes?
That is a good question. In my point of view, all boards come from the same place in China, so it is hit or miss...
..... Nice job!! just one tiny point, my ATU does have small value SMD power supply bypass capacitors, mounted where the electrolytics are..... {Can't have too many supply decouplers, mind!! } . G4ZWI
Thank you for the video! Very nice! Do you think it's a good idea to exchange the elkos with tantal types?
Tantalum capacitors are somewhat better than aluminum ones, but not much different up in the HF bands.
@@rafaelgcpp Thank you! 😀
This video convinced me to get an ATU100 knowing it can be 'suped up'. Must torroid rings be used or if I have some spare clip-on ferrite clamps typically used for power supply wires and display cables suffice?
The clip-on might work. I used the smallest ferrites I had, mostly because I already had them, and they fit nicely on my enclosure
My recent Aliexpress kit purchase has 2 glass SMT diodes. If there is a parts code on them, I'm never going to be able to read it :-) Any idea what part they may be? I have not assembled the kit yet, so it might make sense for me to address the diode issue as part of my build (if there even is an issue!). Many thanks. John, VK4Tj.
John, it is really hard to know. Having two of the same diodes is a huge step in the right direction, though.
I would guess they are the correct BAT41 diodes, but so many diodes are similar...
Shouldn't the power conn. be moved to the other end with the switches to eliminate the wires going over the coils completely?
Ideally, yes, but then the front panel would be cramped.
There is an alternative design with separate RF and digital/power boards that makes much more sense.
If you think about commercial transceivers, the PA, tuner and receiver board are three separate boards and the digital logic is even one more board.
Hello brother , Where can i get ft37-43 ferrite cores? I have searched all over the aliexpress , there is no good solution
I buy them from Kits & Parts (www.kitsandparts.com) or directly from Amidon Corp.
Not the brains but the eyes and ears for the brain
Indeed!
Olá Rafael! Teve contato com o ATU-130? Dizem ser uma versão melhorada desses ATU-100. Seria interessante saber sua opinião sobre a evolução nesses projetos e se houve melhoria de design e qc. Forte 73 PU1KVD
Opa! Ainda não, mas pelo que vi nas fotos eles reorganizaram a PCB, colocando os indutores e capacitores "por fora" e os relés pra dentro. Também parece usar indutores mais grossos, pra suportar mais corrente.
Tirando isso, parece ser o mesmo processador e o desenho da ponte de swr parece o mesmo.
Estou falando isso somente olhando pras fotos, sem ver um esquemático...
Em relação a evolução, o @Temporarily Offline mostrou outro modelo que usa uma placa para o RF e outra pro controlador. Esse eu considero evolução, pois permite que se coloque uma blindagem separando as partes (isso não vem pronto, mas é uma melhoria possível)
O outro é o AT-100M
ruclips.net/video/tQzoJcL_vF8/видео.html
@@rafaelgcpp Encontrei o canal do fabricante do AT-100M no RUclips. Saiu firmware nova dele dia 11/08 e está em prototipagem de um AT-100M-pro.
Segundo ele: "The maximum total capacitance of AT-100M is 1869pf, and the inductance is 8.42uh. The total capacitance of the Pro version is 3869pf, and the inductance is 17.6uh".
ruclips.net/video/m77AZIfO7Y0/видео.html&ab_channel=ANTUNER
video do novo, com legendas
Great video, Ciao. VK5LB
Hello! Sorry for my question. I have the same antenna tuner. The antenna is connected to the input ANT, and from the connector RF IN there is a connection to the transceiver, so connect it correctly. Or vice versa. Please inform. Thank you.
ANT to Antenna, RF IN to transceiver is the correct way to connect.
@@rafaelgcppThank you very much for your answer..
opa! vc faz esse ajuste comercialmente? se não teria alguem pra indicar? Preferencialmente em SP já que moro aqui, mas tbm poderia enviar o equipamento. obrigado! 73
Vitor, não faço comercialmente não. São componentes muito pequenos e como faço o retrabalho com uma estação de solda comum, tem muito risco de arrancar a ilha. Por isso faço no meu, mas não no dos outros!
Mas antes de mexer no ATU, é importante identificar os diodos. As vezes não precisa mexer e está tudo certo, outras vezes tem problema, mas não são os diodos. O Smoking Ape estava com um que tinha diodos certos, mas aparentemente o ferrite errado.
Outra coisa: colocar os capacitores e ferrites é sempre importante. Infelizmente não tenho extras pra te oferecer.
where can i get these parts at?
Assuming you are in US:
Toroids: kits and parts
Capacitors and diodes: Mouser
Let me help you The SWR are not the brains it is the eyes for the brains
Great analogy!
Thanks for the advice on this. I found a mis matched pair at D1 & D2 of my ATU-100 board thankfully before building. Great tips Rafael 73. Mike @merseyradar
maybe a good idea to fit silver mica caps as well,my c2 100pf fried replaced with a 750v 100pf silver mica,the chineese kits have smd ceramics not silver mica,also the diodes dont match on mine one is a flat smt type the other glass!,these have zero qc,had one of mine arrive with a blanc pic 16f1938 as well,its pot luck,first ebay kit had the button+headers missing(but got a full refund) ,first aliexpress kit had a blanc pic,second kit from aliexpress has missing headers for the power and the button but two extra 47uf electrolytic caps,its totaly pot luck.