I think you just sold me on OSB for my 12x24 man cave/workshop. I was debating on using T1-11 installed horizontally for a shiplap look. Can't seem to find 3/8" OSB around me right now but Home Depot has 15/32" for $23.95. Doesn't seem too outrageous of a price for the times. One other thing to note, the OSB around me has the lines on one side and writing/labeling on the other. I almost have to paint it or deal with the labeling or lines being visible. Thanks!
Cool, glad this could help you decide! I would absolutely spend a few extra bucks and paint if you're going with OSB. I cannot believe lumber prices. I could have never built this garage if we started 6 months later. Good luck on your project!
Why did you go with OSB and not plywood for the interior sheathing? I'm enclosing our carport to better protect our cars and stuff and create a little workshop space, and I'm trying to decide between OSB and plywood for our interior sheathing but I really don't have any experience with OSB. Thanks for any advice.
We could have done plywood. If you watch the previous episodes, we use 1/4" ply for the ceiling because it's lightweight. In my case, I wanted enough structure to mount utilities anywhere on the walls. I would have had to use at least 1/2" ply to get that kind of strength - sheets were almost double the cost of OSB. It was just too expensive to be worth it. That being said, building material prices are absolutely insane right now. I spent $2.00 per 2x4 stud when we built this, and now they are $6.50 each. Read the description and my other comments here to get a feel for my opinion on the OSB. I have zero regrets going this route! Thanks for watching and commenting!
When I was a kid. We moved out to New Mexico and into a house that my parents rented for a year. Brick home. You probably thought it was built pretty good. no. The windows were so crappy that the average wind would blow Dustin between the windows and walls. You could watch it come in and if we didn’t clean enough in a couple weeks. There be a little mound of dirt underneath the window.
Is it ok to insulate and osb the walls leaving the ceiling open? Or will that cause me issues when i decided to insulate the ceiling in the future? (eg tearing the wall osb when doing the ceiling) TIA
Nice video - thumbs up! ;-) Quick question: Did you install the studs a precis width so the edge of the OSB lined up with the studs (for screwing), or did you cut down the width of the OSB to make an exact fit onto the studs at the edges? (Or neither?)
Hey friend, thanks for watching and commenting! All studs are 24" on center, so 48" sheets of OSB, ply, or drywall will always line up and split the studs. Full sheets went up. Mind you, not everyone is as skilled and experienced as my Father. He has been doing this for almost 40 years. Small miscalculations or lazy cuts will add up and lead to mismatched joints, of course. The end pieces of OSB that meet the slanted ceiling needed to be cut to fit, but that's it. The bottom edges were trimmed off to grant 1/2" of float above the floor. I hope this answers all your questions!
@@inawrocki207 Thanks for the quick reply! I've watched a couple of your other videos about the garage, but not where you installed the studs. I guessed you/your dad had done a precise job! My wee workshop is only a 6' x 12' wooden shed, so I can't go far wrong (I hope)! I'm just trying to keep out some of the cold British weather so I can work in the shed in winter.
@@davidrowe8747 That's really cool, no matter the size of the project. Just think; we're thousands of miles apart across an ocean, but we get to correspond about our projects together. The 21st century is really a great time to be alive, despite the current state of affairs with Covid and all things considered... I would say you're on the right track to use 2x4 studs, 24" on center spacing. Stuff some basic R13 insulation between the studs before you put up some OSB. Your two longest walls will get 3 full OSB sheets even. You'll have yourself a nice little shed that can be kept completely warm with a small heater! Good luck!
@@inawrocki207 The shed was pre-built, and unfortunately the width between studs varies from 39cm (15.5") to 61.5cm (24") - and in-between (51.5cm, 52cm, 52.5, 53.5, 54, 54.5, 56.5and 63)! It's nowhere near as ambitious as your garage, and I'm looking at using "foam block" insulation (polystyrene, or styrofoam over there), as this is less likely to sag if any damp gets in. The studs are also only 2x2 (pretty standard for most sheds over here), so there's not a huge amount of insulation space to work with. The goal is only to keep off a bit of the chill, and keep it low-budget, but I enjoy watching videos like yours.
@@davidrowe8747 Oh, I see. Well, with various spacing between studs, you'll definitely be trimming whatever material you use for panels to fit. The foam block insulation will be great - It's just like insulating a garage door with panels of foam between the moving parts and it definitely works! Thanks for the praise and comments!
Hey Mustafa, you need to check out the ceiling episode! ruclips.net/video/yfWH7m64TTU/видео.html It is insulated with 2 layers of r13. It is made of plywood glued and stapled up.
Привет, хочу задать вопрос! Я не увидел плёнку перед утеплителем. Вы считаете утеплитель не будет намокать от паров идущих внутрь стены через лист осб?
Drywall screws are much too short and don't have enough bite left going through 3/8" sheets. We used GRK (Also SaberDrive) 1-1/4" screws. Once you go torx drive, you'll never use a lousy Phillips again!
This was 3/8" thickness, 4x10 sheets. It's easy to work with, inexpensive, and structural, unlike drywall or thin ply. You won't regret using it to close in a garage. You will see subtle vertical seams, so go watch my latest video to see how we trimmed it with stained battens for ideas! Thanks for watching and inquiring!
Did you have any issues with screwing so close to the edges of the osb? When splitting the stud you only have 3/4 inch to work with so I wasn't sure if that was a problem.
As a complete amateur; yes, there were several of them that kind of crumpled away the edges as I bore down. That said, it wasn't ever a real issue. I just broke away the loose bits and the paint filled in the rest. After a little practice, you realize that 3/4" of an inch and a slight angle is plenty to work with from the edge even for OSB. That's also something I learned a lot from when nailing during the framing. I was always paranoid about missing an edge or stud, when there really was plenty of space to work with. Thanks for watching!
Hi, i want to make some walls with OSB, but which side go on the inside, and which on the outside please? (there is a side with bigger wood parts, and the other side there are smaller parts). I will put polystyrene on both sides to insulate it anyway, but in general which is the part that has to be the inside of the wall? Thank you
I personally knew I would not be adding any additional texture or product to the walls before painting. I faced the smooth side toward the studs/outside. The evenly textured rough side was faced inward. I did this because the porous side will hold paint much better and the even rough stamp hides imperfections much like spackling drywall. I hope that helps!
What do I do if I have studs of varying "protrusions". Some of the studs stick out farther than others - sometimes more than an inch, 2 inch variation. What's the solution here? Thanks!
The problem happens if the OSB is “floating” away from a stud because the two adjacent studs are sticking out. When you nail or screw it down, the head of the fastener may rip through the OSB because it wants to spring away from the stud. If you watch when we build the walls in the framing episode, you’ll see dad shows me how to “crown” the studs to avoid wavy studs, because it is a very challenging problem. If you’re talking 2” variations between 16” on center studs, you may be looking at replacing studs altogether with straight ones. I wish you luck, friend!
Deck screws are very heavy duty screws, typically with a weatherproofing coating. This makes them quite expensive. We used GRK multipurpose wood screws with star drive heads. Saber drive makes excellent ones, too. Once you use stars, you’ll never ever go back to Phillips! Thanks for watching and commenting!
@@bombpopz You can definitely use nails - that's the usual fastener for this sort of thing because they paint over smoother and hide better for the end result. They won't be exposed to the elements, so any interior fastener works. I personally knew i would be doing battens, so final finish wasn't a concern for me. I can also remove wall panels if I want to expand or improve in the future.
Need to do this in my own garage and watching a few videos while waiting for the price of wood to come down. Has anybody ever said you look like Chris Hemsworth? 🤣
Haha, my wife and I were just talking about this yesterday. A coworker of hers made a random comment that I looked like Liam Hemsworth, but we both agreed definitely more like Chris...Lol This comment cracked me up. Thanks for watching and commenting! Click my channel and check out the garage build playlist - It is all recorded from the ground up.
Finished garages typically are. If it is an attached garage built after the 80's, they also have a fire retardant sheet in there, as well. There are also tons of garages out there that are just exposed studs, which is just stupid to me.
Awesome, Bruce! And yes, you are. I was just looking at my dashboard this morning thinking "Wow, I'm going to hit 50 subscribers soon!" Just for your information, the OSB has painted up amazing (next few episodes...) If you just trim and paint it, it looks like a beautiful textured wall. Good luck on yours!
OK these OSB walls Re flooding my feed today. This doesn't meet fire code. Fires start in kitchens and garages. I think it's a 1" of wood to meet the firewall requirements. Quick search will confirm the current code.
That only applies to walls attached to residence. Nine of these walls were attached - it's a free standing structure with different code than what you're referencing.
You know what, the synergy was all different in my head between the description, title, and video. I'm going to adjust the title accordingly. Thanks for the heads up on it!
Don't have to tell me. The 2x4's I got from Lowe's were $2.50 each. They're now over $10 each. I simply could not have afforded to build this garage if I didn't do it then.
Other than skyrocketing material cost due to bad politics, OSB is the way to go on garage walls. Sturdy does not cause all the problems drywall does in unheated environments. You can anchor to it. Just makes sense. I like metal barn siding for the ceiling. Easy to put up, already painted and loos clean.
I used SabreDrive screws. They were 1 1/2" I believe. You could just use nails, but I wanted to option to remove panels later for maintenance/improvements down the line. Thanks for watching and commenting!
I think you just sold me on OSB for my 12x24 man cave/workshop. I was debating on using T1-11 installed horizontally for a shiplap look. Can't seem to find 3/8" OSB around me right now but Home Depot has 15/32" for $23.95. Doesn't seem too outrageous of a price for the times. One other thing to note, the OSB around me has the lines on one side and writing/labeling on the other. I almost have to paint it or deal with the labeling or lines being visible. Thanks!
Cool, glad this could help you decide! I would absolutely spend a few extra bucks and paint if you're going with OSB. I cannot believe lumber prices. I could have never built this garage if we started 6 months later. Good luck on your project!
Awesome! How did you cover the seams?
Why did you go with OSB and not plywood for the interior sheathing? I'm enclosing our carport to better protect our cars and stuff and create a little workshop space, and I'm trying to decide between OSB and plywood for our interior sheathing but I really don't have any experience with OSB. Thanks for any advice.
We could have done plywood. If you watch the previous episodes, we use 1/4" ply for the ceiling because it's lightweight. In my case, I wanted enough structure to mount utilities anywhere on the walls. I would have had to use at least 1/2" ply to get that kind of strength - sheets were almost double the cost of OSB. It was just too expensive to be worth it. That being said, building material prices are absolutely insane right now. I spent $2.00 per 2x4 stud when we built this, and now they are $6.50 each. Read the description and my other comments here to get a feel for my opinion on the OSB. I have zero regrets going this route! Thanks for watching and commenting!
Wait! How did you get the mill stamp off the OSB that I saw on them while they were laying on the ground?
It came out really good. Im in the process of doing mine.
It sure did. You should check out the painting video in the playlist to see it painted and trimmed. Thanks for watching and commenting!
When I was a kid. We moved out to New Mexico and into a house that my parents rented for a year. Brick home. You probably thought it was built pretty good. no. The windows were so crappy that the average wind would blow Dustin between the windows and walls. You could watch it come in and if we didn’t clean enough in a couple weeks. There be a little mound of dirt underneath the window.
Is it ok to insulate and osb the walls leaving the ceiling open? Or will that cause me issues when i decided to insulate the ceiling in the future? (eg tearing the wall osb when doing the ceiling) TIA
Nice video - thumbs up! ;-) Quick question: Did you install the studs a precis width so the edge of the OSB lined up with the studs (for screwing), or did you cut down the width of the OSB to make an exact fit onto the studs at the edges?
(Or neither?)
Hey friend, thanks for watching and commenting! All studs are 24" on center, so 48" sheets of OSB, ply, or drywall will always line up and split the studs. Full sheets went up.
Mind you, not everyone is as skilled and experienced as my Father. He has been doing this for almost 40 years. Small miscalculations or lazy cuts will add up and lead to mismatched joints, of course.
The end pieces of OSB that meet the slanted ceiling needed to be cut to fit, but that's it. The bottom edges were trimmed off to grant 1/2" of float above the floor. I hope this answers all your questions!
@@inawrocki207 Thanks for the quick reply! I've watched a couple of your other videos about the garage, but not where you installed the studs. I guessed you/your dad had done a precise job!
My wee workshop is only a 6' x 12' wooden shed, so I can't go far wrong (I hope)! I'm just trying to keep out some of the cold British weather so I can work in the shed in winter.
@@davidrowe8747 That's really cool, no matter the size of the project. Just think; we're thousands of miles apart across an ocean, but we get to correspond about our projects together. The 21st century is really a great time to be alive, despite the current state of affairs with Covid and all things considered...
I would say you're on the right track to use 2x4 studs, 24" on center spacing. Stuff some basic R13 insulation between the studs before you put up some OSB. Your two longest walls will get 3 full OSB sheets even. You'll have yourself a nice little shed that can be kept completely warm with a small heater! Good luck!
@@inawrocki207 The shed was pre-built, and unfortunately the width between studs varies from 39cm (15.5") to 61.5cm (24") - and in-between (51.5cm, 52cm, 52.5, 53.5, 54, 54.5, 56.5and 63)! It's nowhere near as ambitious as your garage, and I'm looking at using "foam block" insulation (polystyrene, or styrofoam over there), as this is less likely to sag if any damp gets in. The studs are also only 2x2 (pretty standard for most sheds over here), so there's not a huge amount of insulation space to work with. The goal is only to keep off a bit of the chill, and keep it low-budget, but I enjoy watching videos like yours.
@@davidrowe8747 Oh, I see. Well, with various spacing between studs, you'll definitely be trimming whatever material you use for panels to fit. The foam block insulation will be great - It's just like insulating a garage door with panels of foam between the moving parts and it definitely works! Thanks for the praise and comments!
Great video! Just curious was your ceiling insulated and what exactly did you use to cover it?
Hey Mustafa, you need to check out the ceiling episode! ruclips.net/video/yfWH7m64TTU/видео.html It is insulated with 2 layers of r13. It is made of plywood glued and stapled up.
Привет, хочу задать вопрос! Я не увидел плёнку перед утеплителем. Вы считаете утеплитель не будет намокать от паров идущих внутрь стены через лист осб?
no , no one in america likes putin except trump
Did you paint the osb?
5/8th? Or?
Thanks
Yep this was 5/8" OsB - watch next episodes to see it fully trimmed and painted!
Great video. Wondering what type of screws you used. Drywall screws, or something different?
Drywall screws are much too short and don't have enough bite left going through 3/8" sheets. We used GRK (Also SaberDrive) 1-1/4" screws. Once you go torx drive, you'll never use a lousy Phillips again!
@@inawrocki207 I appreciate it man. Thank you
Very cool, I'm looking to do my garage with OSB sheets too. What thickness OSB did you end up using for this?
This was 3/8" thickness, 4x10 sheets. It's easy to work with, inexpensive, and structural, unlike drywall or thin ply. You won't regret using it to close in a garage. You will see subtle vertical seams, so go watch my latest video to see how we trimmed it with stained battens for ideas! Thanks for watching and inquiring!
@@inawrocki207 Awesome, thanks for the additional info! Looking forward to getting my walls up and starting my mini 1-car garage workshop myself.
What kind of wood and what insulation are you using?
Did you have any issues with screwing so close to the edges of the osb? When splitting the stud you only have 3/4 inch to work with so I wasn't sure if that was a problem.
As a complete amateur; yes, there were several of them that kind of crumpled away the edges as I bore down. That said, it wasn't ever a real issue. I just broke away the loose bits and the paint filled in the rest. After a little practice, you realize that 3/4" of an inch and a slight angle is plenty to work with from the edge even for OSB. That's also something I learned a lot from when nailing during the framing. I was always paranoid about missing an edge or stud, when there really was plenty of space to work with. Thanks for watching!
Which screws did you use?
Looks great !!
Hi, i want to make some walls with OSB, but which side go on the inside, and which on the outside please? (there is a side with bigger wood parts, and the other side there are smaller parts). I will put polystyrene on both sides to insulate it anyway, but in general which is the part that has to be the inside of the wall? Thank you
I personally knew I would not be adding any additional texture or product to the walls before painting. I faced the smooth side toward the studs/outside. The evenly textured rough side was faced inward. I did this because the porous side will hold paint much better and the even rough stamp hides imperfections much like spackling drywall. I hope that helps!
@@inawrocki207 Thank you!!!
Agree
Latex paint on smooth side
What do I do if I have studs of varying "protrusions". Some of the studs stick out farther than others - sometimes more than an inch, 2 inch variation. What's the solution here? Thanks!
The problem happens if the OSB is “floating” away from a stud because the two adjacent studs are sticking out. When you nail or screw it down, the head of the fastener may rip through the OSB because it wants to spring away from the stud.
If you watch when we build the walls in the framing episode, you’ll see dad shows me how to “crown” the studs to avoid wavy studs, because it is a very challenging problem. If you’re talking 2” variations between 16” on center studs, you may be looking at replacing studs altogether with straight ones. I wish you luck, friend!
I take it you spaced your studs at 24" to align with your 48" wide OSB?
Yes
It's just a garage shed building code more flexible
What kind of fasteners did you use? Deck screws?
Deck screws are very heavy duty screws, typically with a weatherproofing coating. This makes them quite expensive. We used GRK multipurpose wood screws with star drive heads. Saber drive makes excellent ones, too. Once you use stars, you’ll never ever go back to Phillips! Thanks for watching and commenting!
iNawrocki Thank you. I was considering using just simple galvanized nails. I was concerned the screws may rust over time but probably unlikely.
@@bombpopz You can definitely use nails - that's the usual fastener for this sort of thing because they paint over smoother and hide better for the end result. They won't be exposed to the elements, so any interior fastener works. I personally knew i would be doing battens, so final finish wasn't a concern for me. I can also remove wall panels if I want to expand or improve in the future.
Impressive works!
Need to do this in my own garage and watching a few videos while waiting for the price of wood to come down. Has anybody ever said you look like Chris Hemsworth? 🤣
Haha, my wife and I were just talking about this yesterday. A coworker of hers made a random comment that I looked like Liam Hemsworth, but we both agreed definitely more like Chris...Lol This comment cracked me up. Thanks for watching and commenting! Click my channel and check out the garage build playlist - It is all recorded from the ground up.
Your look and mannerisms remind me of the dude that was just on the latest "the batchelor" in Australia
*Slowly opens new tab...* "2020 The Bachelor Austr..." Lol, thanks for watching and commenting!
Are garages usually insulated?
Finished garages typically are. If it is an attached garage built after the 80's, they also have a fire retardant sheet in there, as well. There are also tons of garages out there that are just exposed studs, which is just stupid to me.
Doing this now! And I’m your 50th!
Awesome, Bruce! And yes, you are. I was just looking at my dashboard this morning thinking "Wow, I'm going to hit 50 subscribers soon!" Just for your information, the OSB has painted up amazing (next few episodes...) If you just trim and paint it, it looks like a beautiful textured wall. Good luck on yours!
OK these OSB walls Re flooding my feed today.
This doesn't meet fire code. Fires start in kitchens and garages. I think it's a 1" of wood to meet the firewall requirements. Quick search will confirm the current code.
That only applies to walls attached to residence. Nine of these walls were attached - it's a free standing structure with different code than what you're referencing.
@@Solidus2845 well did they do that wall double and the ceiling?? Because that's what it would take.
So where was the Dry wall Comparison ?
You know what, the synergy was all different in my head between the description, title, and video. I'm going to adjust the title accordingly. Thanks for the heads up on it!
This is America.
No technology...
Looks so good from inside, but now the skyrocketing lumber price makes it almost impossible to keep your wallet safe.
Don't have to tell me. The 2x4's I got from Lowe's were $2.50 each. They're now over $10 each. I simply could not have afforded to build this garage if I didn't do it then.
Other than skyrocketing material cost due to bad politics, OSB is the way to go on garage walls.
Sturdy does not cause all the problems drywall does in unheated environments.
You can anchor to it.
Just makes sense.
I like metal barn siding for the ceiling.
Easy to put up, already painted and loos clean.
What type of fasteners do you recommend for this project?
I used SabreDrive screws. They were 1 1/2" I believe. You could just use nails, but I wanted to option to remove panels later for maintenance/improvements down the line. Thanks for watching and commenting!
@@inawrocki207 Thanks! That looks perfect. Will use those for my own project. I agree, makes it much easier to open for maintenance/improvement.
@@CompTechMike Also, once you use SabreDrives (or any star drive screw), you'll never use a Phillips again; I know I don't!