I did a timing belt on my 1,4 on my seat, slightly older engine (BBY) with a little different setup but very similar. I always mark the belt, sprockets and the engine block for reference, then I transfer the marks from the old belt to the new and just put it in the same way I took it out. No way to mess it up if you line up the marks and count the tooth in between. And of course like any belt job it's a good idea to spin the engine by hand a couple rotations to make sure the marks line up again.
One question if someone can reply me… I did it exactly how you say but at the time to spin de engine bu hand the marks never line up again, what could happened??
Is that a 1.4? I thought they had inlet and exhaust cam phasers. This looks more like the 1.2 (CJZ[A-D] engine codes). So that little red plastic tool that fits between the cams and has pointers to show the cams are correctly aligned. Part "C" in your kit. The question is, why do the cams get out of sync during vehicle operation? Is it because there is no woodruff key on the cams and things can shift over time? Is it the inlet cam phaser still turned? I've heard people do all the marks they want, but the cams are still out of sync. There's a super expensive VAS611007 electronic tool that is used to get the timing in spec, but I'm confused as to whether that is needed for an engine like this (CJZA-CJZD) which has only an inlet cam phaser. DIYing on cars is dying. Getting a bit complicated with expensive tool requirements, all for very little gain. Or... I'm just getting old ... "they don't make them like they used to" 😁
Or is it that the tolerance on timing is tight enough that variations from belt to belt can put it out? That's the only reason I can see for why the official instructions would want the sprockets loosened from the camshafts before fitting the new belt then tightening again. I can't imagine they shift/move over time, so the only difference would be the new belt vs the old belt.
@@AJB1 Could be. But surely that slack is taken up by the tensioner. Could just be due to the nature and variances in the cam adjuster. Requirements for such expensive tools and complicated procedures on cars which are meant to be basic models is just going to turn them into junk. Tons of plastic and metal turning into waste. I feel gone are the days of cars living a good long life. Engines like these which are common really shouldn't have such tedious timing procedures.
@@2226cc The tensioner is on the slack side of the belt, but the critical length is on the drive side which should always be tight. I do agree with you about complex procedures and special tools, but even my old 1.9TDI made in 2002 (ALH engine in a Skoda Octavia) was supposed to have the injector pump pulley loosened from the pump shaft, I assume for the same reason. Then you had to use diagnostic tools like VCDS to check and adjust the timing of the pump. The main dealer didn't bother doing that when I got the belt changed, and when I checked with VCDS it was out of spec, so I had to go back, show them how to use their tools, and make them do it properly!
100% mate, patience in workshops is often not afforded to Techs based on costs, book times and customer expectations. To successfully do these jobs solo I believe the right tools need to be supplied or there is a high risk of mistiming which can lead to poor performance, running rough, poor fuel economy etc... Sometimes expectations do not match reality and as techs we should encourage the use of correct tooling (which I know you absolutely do) especially for the individuals that are attempting this type of work without having a good amount of experience doing timing belts. Risk vs Reward : |
If there is ACT or double variators (this one video does only have one varitator - adjustable valve timing) you need dealer specific computerized advanced timing tools.
@@Mixter81 I think it's the later engines (eg 1.5 maybe) that needs the computerised timing tool. I think the earlier 1.4, even with ACT and adjusters on both cams, just uses a mechanical looking tool. That said, as I understand it, the official instructions want you to loosen off both cam sprockets, put the new belt on, then tighten them. The sprockets aren't splined onto the camshafts, so that lets the sprockets theoretically get positioned in the perfect place for the new belt. How that works if there's play in the tool I don't know... Not sure if it's just a cheap badly made tool that has play, or if even the official VW ones would?
@@Mixter81 Have they changed their advice then? The older official guides I've seen say to use T10494 which is a physical looking tool, not the expensive computerised one. I thought it was the newer EA211 engines which needed the new computerised tool, rather than that they now say to use that for all.
@@AJB1 From what I know, it is maybe occasionaly possible to change the belt without loosening the cambelt bolts. 1 of 10 changes fail in this manner. Check engine light and timing issues, gas mileage is worse etc. Will not be the same car anymore. It requires precision. But if loosening the bolts, the expensive VAS 611 007 tool must be used. But if you could check on an authorized VW mechanic shop, would be nice to have some feedback. There is older EA211 and newer EA211 Evo engines. They are a bit different just a littlebit I dont know but share same core system? Belt last much longer on Evo engines from what I know.
Spot on advice Gerard! Always markup before removing the original belt even with the timing locked in position! ❤
VW say you need to change the cam bolts which adds another layer of complexity to the job as the gears are simply floating, what is your take on that?
I did a timing belt on my 1,4 on my seat, slightly older engine (BBY) with a little different setup but very similar. I always mark the belt, sprockets and the engine block for reference, then I transfer the marks from the old belt to the new and just put it in the same way I took it out. No way to mess it up if you line up the marks and count the tooth in between. And of course like any belt job it's a good idea to spin the engine by hand a couple rotations to make sure the marks line up again.
One question if someone can reply me… I did it exactly how you say but at the time to spin de engine bu hand the marks never line up again, what could happened??
@@cjbm2764 Nothing they will never do again probably just watch the marks you did on block snd sprockets not the belt ones
Great video. In short time correctly advised.
Thanks for the video, I wanted to know if the 1.5 tsi displacement has an external belt and if the latest 1.5 tsi evo has an oil bath belt. Thank you
Thanks for the great video!
Thank you :)
This will be very useful hv one exactly like that that hv to do today l will be the hero of day❤
Great video Gerard, very informative, Thank You🙏🙏👍🙂
Thanks Pat 🇮🇪🇮🇪🍀🍀🙏🙏🙌🙌
I just paint mark them, then i know the cams spring but i put them back to marks while someone holds them and i put the belt back on. Always fine
Nice one 🙌👌👍💪 Having a second person to help is a key there.
Good job 🙌
Good video.
Loads of marking thought i was the only one , is there a keyway in the crankshaft pulley just wondering
YES! I think crankshaft pulley has a keyway!!! Much better design than stupid Ford!!!
@@AlanCooney Yes, I think the crankshaft does have a keyway, but the camshafts don't.
If you think this is complicated, have a look at the TSI with ACT procedure 😂😂. I see laser have an alternative to the vag tool out now... £1000!!!
Is that a 1.4? I thought they had inlet and exhaust cam phasers. This looks more like the 1.2 (CJZ[A-D] engine codes).
So that little red plastic tool that fits between the cams and has pointers to show the cams are correctly aligned. Part "C" in your kit. The question is, why do the cams get out of sync during vehicle operation? Is it because there is no woodruff key on the cams and things can shift over time? Is it the inlet cam phaser still turned? I've heard people do all the marks they want, but the cams are still out of sync. There's a super expensive VAS611007 electronic tool that is used to get the timing in spec, but I'm confused as to whether that is needed for an engine like this (CJZA-CJZD) which has only an inlet cam phaser.
DIYing on cars is dying. Getting a bit complicated with expensive tool requirements, all for very little gain.
Or... I'm just getting old ... "they don't make them like they used to" 😁
Or is it that the tolerance on timing is tight enough that variations from belt to belt can put it out? That's the only reason I can see for why the official instructions would want the sprockets loosened from the camshafts before fitting the new belt then tightening again. I can't imagine they shift/move over time, so the only difference would be the new belt vs the old belt.
@@AJB1 Could be. But surely that slack is taken up by the tensioner. Could just be due to the nature and variances in the cam adjuster.
Requirements for such expensive tools and complicated procedures on cars which are meant to be basic models is just going to turn them into junk. Tons of plastic and metal turning into waste. I feel gone are the days of cars living a good long life.
Engines like these which are common really shouldn't have such tedious timing procedures.
@@2226cc The tensioner is on the slack side of the belt, but the critical length is on the drive side which should always be tight. I do agree with you about complex procedures and special tools, but even my old 1.9TDI made in 2002 (ALH engine in a Skoda Octavia) was supposed to have the injector pump pulley loosened from the pump shaft, I assume for the same reason. Then you had to use diagnostic tools like VCDS to check and adjust the timing of the pump. The main dealer didn't bother doing that when I got the belt changed, and when I checked with VCDS it was out of spec, so I had to go back, show them how to use their tools, and make them do it properly!
Brilliant video, thanks!!! I will be doing same job on 2013 Golf 1.4 tsi. EA211 engine. Your tips are 10 times better than any Haynes manual!!!
Cheers Alan, I really appreciate the feedback 🙏🙌👌
Garcia Laura Perez Jose Clark Gary
I've only done the timing chain on the 1.4 Golf. Same deal with the special tools, paint marker and plenty of patience
100% mate, patience in workshops is often not afforded to Techs based on costs, book times and customer expectations.
To successfully do these jobs solo I believe the right tools need to be supplied or there is a high risk of mistiming which can lead to poor performance, running rough, poor fuel economy etc...
Sometimes expectations do not match reality and as techs we should encourage the use of correct tooling (which I know you absolutely do) especially for the individuals that are attempting this type of work without having a good amount of experience doing timing belts.
Risk vs Reward : |
@@GerardBurkeBurkesGarage Totally agree. You can't expect quality workmanship from staff if the correct equipment is not provided.
I dont use any locking tools on these, paint marks only always been good
Fair play, What do you use to adjust the cams or lock them in place?
I’ve paid two mechanics to do mine recently the second was a v w dealer and I’m still getting the yellow exhaust alarm on my golf !
I had an 2018 1.5 tsi should i need some special tool for replacement
If there is ACT or double variators (this one video does only have one varitator - adjustable valve timing) you need dealer specific computerized advanced timing tools.
@@Mixter81 I think it's the later engines (eg 1.5 maybe) that needs the computerised timing tool. I think the earlier 1.4, even with ACT and adjusters on both cams, just uses a mechanical looking tool.
That said, as I understand it, the official instructions want you to loosen off both cam sprockets, put the new belt on, then tighten them. The sprockets aren't splined onto the camshafts, so that lets the sprockets theoretically get positioned in the perfect place for the new belt.
How that works if there's play in the tool I don't know... Not sure if it's just a cheap badly made tool that has play, or if even the official VW ones would?
@AJB1 VW said all EA211 engines MUST use the computerized angle timing belt tool. VAS 611 007 is the tool to use.
@@Mixter81 Have they changed their advice then? The older official guides I've seen say to use T10494 which is a physical looking tool, not the expensive computerised one. I thought it was the newer EA211 engines which needed the new computerised tool, rather than that they now say to use that for all.
@@AJB1 From what I know, it is maybe occasionaly possible to change the belt without loosening the cambelt bolts. 1 of 10 changes fail in this manner. Check engine light and timing issues, gas mileage is worse etc. Will not be the same car anymore. It requires precision. But if loosening the bolts, the expensive VAS 611 007 tool must be used. But if you could check on an authorized VW mechanic shop, would be nice to have some feedback. There is older EA211 and newer EA211 Evo engines. They are a bit different just a littlebit I dont know but share same core system? Belt last much longer on Evo engines from what I know.
Great video thanks 👍
Thank for taking the time to comment :)