Toro ccr 2000 3000 Suzuki Mikuni carb rebuild
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- Опубликовано: 1 окт 2024
- Carburetor rebuild snowblower snow blower
20219, Lawnmower, 1991 (SN 1000001-1999999)
20320, Lawnmower, 1992 (SN 2000001-2999999)
20926B, 48cm Rear Bagging Lawnmower, 1992 (SN 2000001-2999999)
26620B, Lawnmower, 1992 (SN 2000001-2999999)
26620B, Lawnmower, 1993 (SN 3900001-3999999)
26620BF, Lawnmower, 1991 (SN 1000001-1999999)
26620BG, Lawnmower, 1992 (SN 2000001-2999999)
26621B, Lawnmower, 1992 (SN 2000001-2999999)
26623, Lawnmower, 1991 (SN 0000001-0999999)
26625B, Lawnmower, 1992 (SN 2000001-2999999)
26625B, Lawnmower, 1993 (SN 3900001-3999999)
26625BG, Lawnmower, 1992 (SN 2000001-2999999)
26626, Lawnmower, 1991 (SN 1000001-1999999)
38180, CCR 2000 Snowthrower, 1994 (SN 4900001-4999999)
38180, CCR 2000 Snowthrower, 1995 (SN 5900001-5999999)
38180, CCR 2000 Snowthrower, 1996 (SN 6900001-6999999)
38181, CCR 2000 Snowthrower, 1994 (SN 4900001-4999999)
38181, CCR 2000 Snowthrower, 1995 (SN 5900001-5999999)
38181, CCR 2000 Snowthrower, 1996 (SN 6900001-6999999)
38185, CCR 2000 Snowthrower, 1994 (SN 4900001-4999999)
38185, CCR 2000 Snowthrower, 1995 (SN 5900001-5999999)
38185, CCR 2000 Snowthrower, 1996 (SN 6900001-6999999)
38186, CCR 2000 Snowthrower, 1994 (SN 4900001-4999999)
38186, CCR 2000 Snowthrower, 1995 (SN 5900001-5999999)
38186, CCR 2000 Snowthrower, 1996 (SN 6900001-6999999)
38430, CCR 3000 Snowthrower, 1997 (SN 7900001-7999999)
38430, CCR 3000 Snowthrower, 1998 (SN 8900001-8999999)
38430, CCR 3000 Snowthrower, 1999 (SN 9900001-9999999)
38431, CCR 3000 Snowthrower, 1997 (SN 7900001-7999999)
38431, CCR 3000 Snowthrower, 1998 (SN 8900001-8999999)
38435, CCR 3000 Snowthrower, 1997 (SN 7900001-7999999)
38435, CCR 3000 Snowthrower, 1998 (SN 8900001-8999999)
38435, CCR 3000 Snowthrower, 1999 (SN 9900001-9999999)
38436, CCR 3000 Snowthrower, 1997 (SN 7900001-7999999)
38436, CCR 3000 Snowthrower, 1998 (SN 8900001-8999999)
Seriously bro. Start to finish. Awesome video. Knowledgable and straight to point. No long winded bs we don't need to hear like in many other how to vids on RUclips.
Awesome, I'm glad it helped.
It pushes the float to close the needle. Put the loop on the pin and insert the pin/spring into the float retaining hole. Hook the looped end over the pin once it protrudes far enough out the other side. Now you can take the pointed end of the spring and rotate/position it so it Pushes the float and needle to the closed position. It should only need to rotate less than one turn to get into position. Hope this makes sense.
Thanks. That small screw with the hole in it is your main jet. The other long part is the emulsion tube and will have a flathead screwhead on it. If it doesn't want to budge, leave it. It is seldom clogged and you can destroy the entire carb by snapping off the tube inside. Spray up through it and the carb cleaner will still clean it.
Did you use an 8-32 machine screw? Did it strip out? You can try heating the area a little
Thanks for watching its a little boring if you aren't fixing this particular carb.
Thanks. Its a little boring to watch if you aren't fixing this particular carb.
Thanks. Its a little boring to watch if you aren't fixing this particular carb.
Suzuki parts are so expensive because they haven’t made the engines in 15+ years. You’re paying for Toro to manufacture obsolete parts. The needle and seat used to only be 7 bucks when they were still in production and not 24 like today.
I use the 8/32 screw to remove the needle seat not the idle jet. If your carb isn't flooding I wouldn't take out the needle and seat. 90% of carbs can be cleaned and reassembled without any new parts and will work the same and as long as a carb that had everything swapped out.
a random non seating needle could mean your air vent-primer button air port is clogged. Do you hear air or gurggling gas when you press the primer button? This will tell you if it is clogged. Surging is generally a clogged idle passage.
It could be just the fuel hose is swollen and is weeping gas onto everything. Gasoline wicks very easily and a small leak spreads to look like its everywhere. In this order is what I would check, replace and then recheck before moving on:
1: fuel line
2: bowl gasket
3: bottom bowl nut gasket
4: needle seat
Your problem says that your main jet is clogged. Spray through it and up through the emulsion tube and it should be good to go. I would spray through all the other little passages as well just for safe measure. I have done tons that parts weren't removable with great results. I would leave the needle seat alone if it wasn't giving you trouble.
The governor system controls the rpm at which the snowblower runs. When it starts or goes under load it will open the throttle, but it doesn't need to when the engine has no load on it. Forcing it over will make it over rev to a higher rpm but you should feel it forcing your finger back.
The emulsion tube comes out the bottom the same way the jet came out. It is a standard counter clockwise turn (see 4:00). Any grabbing of the emulsion tube through the throat of the carb will damage it.
They are great machines. One thing a suggest is new rubber paddles. If the space between the housing and the rubber paddle is 7mm or more, it is worn. This makes a HUGE difference on how well it throws the snow.
Main and idle circuits are gummed up. A thorough carb clean like I show will get you back up and going. Let me know how it goes.
They run forever, but they are expensive.
Oh Crap... I thought no one here in the valley would watch this. Its my pleasure making the video and I'm glad it helped.
Wow, sounds like a dealer to me. 99% of the time a rebuild kit is not needed. They just need to be cleaned.
Just a little bit of a mark up...
It is threaded in there as well. Use as wide as flat head screwdriver that will fit and screw it out.
The sounds like the idle circuit is still partially plugged pay careful attention to 6:20, 6:38 and 7:20 in the video.
For the snowblower application nothing is supposed to be screwed in to the spot your talking about.
The most common problems are a clogged idle jet and a clogged main jet. Let me know how it goes. FYI: You don't have to put on the back shroud to test start it and make sure everything is running smooth.
I have the same model of toro snow blower with the same Mikuni carb but there is a spring on the float on mine. Yours doesn’t have one? I can’t figure out how it goes back on the pin and float.
Awesome. Its to bad the needle/seat kits are so much for these little things.
Needle/seat are leaking. Could be a piece of debris is caught in it or it could be bad.
Thanks. But you already know how to clean these so I hope you fast forwarded a little.
Awesome... I still can't get over your name though.
You should be fine. Rarely is the emulsion tube clogged.
GREAT!... Yeah, I hear you're going to get hammered with snow. Thanks for watching and the nice comments. -Moe
@Bryan J. Smith.. It sounds like you got it going now. Great.
It just looks like the slot on the emulsion tube (where the bit would go) is chipped a bit......I tried to turn it, and felt a small break, I think..I see what you mean by, "If you strip them, you are screwed".....LOL
I sprayed cleaner through the emulsion tube, and it is spraying out pretty good, so I'm just going to leave it....The problem I was having (the reason I took it apart) is that the engine was surging.
I'm going to just screw the jet back into the emulsion tube and hope for the best!
When I took a screwdriver tip and unloosened the main jet, just the top (screw) part came out...In the video, you referred to yours as being "fused together".....How do I get the other piece out? does it threaded as well, or can I just get a pair of pliers through the flaps, squeeze on it and push it up and out of there???? Thanks in advance.
LOL...It isn't what most think....My wife is from the Philippines. Her language is Tagalog. Look up the Tagolog/ English translation for Puke and you will get it (Almost like Cookie Monster...LOL)
That's great to hear. You're Welcome and Thanks for commenting. -Moe
I just posted this two weeks ago because I thought someone could use it. Hopefully it helps you.
Over my head
Yes. Sounds like a basic clogged main jet.
I followed your great video because of stalling. It's much better but still not right. I have to keep priming it for like 5+ minutes before I can slowly close the choke. Even then it periodically wants to stall unless I hit the primer bulb. If I rev the throttle it sounds strong. Looking at the carb directly across the body from the primer tube is a very small threaded hole. Is there supposed to be anything in it? I cleaned the main jet well and passed your float test. Any suggestions? Thanks!
I have a CCR2000 with the same carb. Looks like the fuel bowl is weeping gas and the top gasket looks moist. Also, the connector that the fuel hose attaches also looks moist. Any suggestions for the carb and the plastic fuel tank fitting to eliminate these very small leak. Stinks up the garage. Any suggestion would be appreciated. Thanks.
BTW I replaced the carb and bowl gaskets as well as the fuel filter, gas lines, primer assembly and hose. I followed your cleaning steps exactly. What controls opening the throttle past idle? It sounds strong if I rev it with my finger. There is fresh gas and no gas leaks. Thanks again.
Sounds like you're ready for a good hard winter.
Its a 5hp.
Sorry to bother you again. I cleaned the carb on my CCR2000 and it is still surging. I cleaned out all the jets and it still won't run correctly. I installed new fuel line, filter, and gaskets and the problem is still there. Any suggestions? I checked the seat by blowing into it and there are no leaks.
Surging is going to be the idle circuit. At 7:10 I take out the jet and talk about it. You need to make sure fuel is flowing through the passage at 7:55.
@@sixtyfiveford Fuel was coming out of those ports from the start. I just realized however, that the needle snapped off of the adjustment screw and plugged the hole. I have another carburetor that I'm going to try out.
@@sixtyfiveford I've never felt so stupid. I had the pulley off of the engine because I swapped one engine from another body. I put it on and the surge stopped immediately. Thank you.
@@pinomarino8917 I'm glad you got it fixed. The weight of the pulley can make a huge difference.
Thanks for watching.
When you see photos of the Toro 81-5820 seat kit, it shows the tube, needle and rubber seat. My question is how does the rubber seat attach to the tube. Is it possible to get it upside down? Is it obvious. Im guessing the seat goes in 1st or is attached to the end of the tube then put in as an assembly. The video does not show this part assembled before insertion into the carb. Thank you!
Awesome. Hopefully it helps.
I ended up with a shorter screw and it worked. I couldn't get the correct leverage with a longer screw. Thanks!
Thank You for watching.
I always appreciate your great videos - clearly explained - providing so many great ideas on stuff I have done and more courage to try what I haven't. After seeing your vids I scored a CCR2000 cheap and pulled the carburetor, cleaned and sprayed it as you suggested. However I could not get out the emulsion tube as it has a "hump" in the center so would require grinding a screwdriver bit to suit. I thought I would just try it as is and it was hard starting at first but seems to go now. I may check for carbon in the muffler. Also I could not figure out the right way to replace the spring on the Mikuni carb float hinge pin as it does little but dampen movement. I found another link which does show it - this may be a good addition to your video. Link: www.abbysguide.com/ope/discussions/58674-0-1.html
(mine is a 38180C-sn8903071). Thanks and cheers! PS more than 2 primes floods my CCR2000.
ve6kk Yeah, that spring can be tricky if your not anticipating reinstalling when you pull it apart.
Thanks, I hope so.
Cool . Good Job
:)
well done how to,,
Thanks Steve! It looked like it also could have been slotted, and I did try to put a screwdriver down there....It did not turn. Instead, I'm afraid some of the brass may have broke off at the top. This is basically the only thing that could go wrong that I can't remedy easily.....Any more advice on how to get it out? How about if I spray some WD down there and trying to place needle nose through the side, clamping lightly on that jet (Doesn't it go through the core??) and turning clockwise?
Smashing tutorial :-)
I dont have a machine with that type of carb, but its allways nice to learn :-)
Like your function discription of the carb parts, again it gives us all a heads up on the way it works.
Expensive tube&seal oooow they are taking the piss :-(
Awesome, thanks for finding it. I hope I find some more entertaining things to do :)
Does it work
Will it work
Well for people like me its fine, i allways enjoy a good repair video :-)
Im not into speed boats but that was enjoyable and what a brilliant result :-)
I have noticed that people are becoming stupid, less and less people repair things thease days :-(
This is the best video out there and the info in the comments is the best.Thanks for answering others questions and helping the rest of us!❤️
Glad it was helpful!
Ok stumped...new needle and seat still floodin out...WTF is next help please ...Runnin out of beer but plenty of SNOW!!!hahahahaha
Here are the few things it could be:
Constant leaking:
Debri could holding needle/seat open
Float sticking holding needle/seat open
Damaged seat
Damaged needle
Sometimes it leaks other times no:
Carb vent plugged
Debri
Leaking bowl gasket
my ccr2000 won't start and after a couple pulls fuel begins to leak from carb. Thought I did a fairly decent job of cleaning the carburetor and getting everything back together. Any idea what the problem is? Thanks
Needle/seat not sealing
Excellent instructional video! I am working on the same carb. I’m having some problems. Could you please suggest what I might try to free the emulsion tube without damaging it? It seems to be stuck; the main jet came out leaving the tube behind. Your advice would be very much be appreciated.
Honestly just leave it if it doesn't come out with a few knocks. You can try pushing it out lightly from insider the carb but if you push too hard you'll mushroom the top and ruin the entire carb.
Toro 2000E Had pool of gas on floor. I thought it was from the gas tube to the carb so changed clamp and leak stopped. A while later it looked like the seal above the bowl was leaking and that has now stopped. When I went to start it - it seems like it wants to turn over but doesn't. Carb had gas all over it, is that normal? Do I have to take the carb off? I had such a heck of a time getting the cover back on!! Is there a trick to it??
Pat S Sounds like a dirty carb is flooding the engine. Gas all over is not a good thing. The cover is always tricky getting on and off.
ccr2000 idled fine after cleaning, However, rpms don't increase when I engage. Does this need adjustment somewhere or is there no idle speed, just load speed?
elixirpicker1 There is only 1 speed.
Hello I have a toro ccr 2000 the paddles won't stop spinning always engaged from start up ?? Thanks
+Bk 136 Kiszew Pull off the side belt cover. Your belt is stuck.
For the models that have the anti vibration spring on the float bowl, is the spring tension holding the float UP or DOWN
Up
@@sixtyfiveford that's what I figured thanks! Have you ever had a problem with surging? I checked all the gaskets, main jet and pilot jet are clean and clear... cant get it to run correctly.
My carb has a spring and I don’t know how to install the spring correctly. Any advice or pictures or video? Brian G
The spring is simply to push the float up. It's ever so slight and was actually only used it for a for years before they abandoned it.
SixtyFiveFord, Great how-to-rebuild video. Mine is a 93 vintage model. It just recently started having issues. The engine will start when primed 1 once then die. If I prime it 2 to 3 times it runs longer then dies. The float bowl is full so I am assuming the issue is the main jet or the one on top you referred to is clogged as it doesn't appear to be a flooding issue. I am going to just clean it without doing the needle and seat replacement. Sound like I am on the track??
Quick follow up, The carb clean was what it needed, no parts. Just disassembled per your video and half a can of carb cleaner. 1 prime push and started on first pull. Idles, no surging, once snow starts falling here i'll find out if it's back to normal. Thanks
Hi I have a ccr2000 can you tell me if there is a spring for the pulley assembly to keep pulley up till auger is engaged. And if so where is it attached thank
+Bk 136 Kiszew Take your model number and go to Toro's website. There you will be able to see in detail all the parts to your machine.
Thanks! It started right up.....And no more surging!!!! Problem solved!
Thanks to you, I looked like I knew what I was doing...LOL
I soaked the jets overnight in seafoam.......Runs great now....Ready for
more snow on Monday!
Thanks again! You have given me the confidence to know I can probably fix
most small engine motors!
I will keep watching your vids! Keep warm! =)
In the video you said to not mess with the idle air fuel needle, but mine doesn't have the plastic cap and it's already been messed with. Where should I set it to start, and how do I adjust it to the optimal setting once the engine's running?
+John Dollison Run it all the way in, then back it out 1.5 turns. That's how mine was set from the last time I had it serviced by a shop.
I have a CCR2000 and just started it up with new fuel and it works just fine. I then left it over night and all the gas had leaked out. Can you tell me what the problem might be and how to correct it?
Thanks for the video on the carb rebuild. I have replaced the bowl gasket and had the needle replaced by the small engine shop where I purchased the needle. I still have 2 problems engine surges and needle not sealing. the small engine shop used small vacuum pump to test needle, gauge did show that it leaked. Plan to follow your video later in the week.
Do you have any other ideas?
Have a toro ccr 2000 runs fine first snow today won't throw it paddles ingage but under load won't throw snow tks
+Bk 136 Kiszew If the paddles are spinning and it barely throws it or easily clogs, your paddles are worn and need replacement. If the paddles stop when you hit snow then your belt is slipping.
Hi I have a toro ccr 2000 cleaned carb new gas can't get to idle smooth seems to pulsate any ideas ?? Tks
Bk 136 Kiszew Idle jet is partially clogged. This will cause surging of the engine.
No-its the shaft that holds the fuel bowl.Apparently some time some one forgot to put the spacer in-when I cranked it down tight the bowl distorted and then cracked the shaft inside. Its total history. My bad-I saw in the parts list that a spavcer was supposed to be there. Gonna have to replace the carb.
Cool video! Thanks. My Model 38180 will only run with the choke fully closed. What do I need to do to correct it? Thanks.
My emulsion tube did not come out with the jet, and I think I have started to damage it trying to get it out. Is there a secret trick for this?
The secret is, if it doesn't come out leave it. Spray through everything with carb cleaner over an hour period of time(spray, let sit for 10min, repeat). This will make sure any varnish gas is dissolved and cleaned out.
just checked. new carb for this machine is 196.00. great video.
Of course first I cleaned the carb and it still wouldn't run right, Then I searched and found this video and I re-cleaned it following your advice. Now it runs like new!
Thanks, Great help!!!!
Thanks for making this video. You saved me a lot of time and money If you are ever in Salt Lake I'm buying...
This machine would only run by pressing the primer so it was pretty blocked up. I took it apart and cleaned it up but I didn't have any carb cleaner so I was only able to improve it to run on full choke. Interestingly, when I pulled the plug, it was running real lean which seemed strange because it was running on full choke. I guess it was starved for gas. Only after I took it a part and used carb cleaner (and a strand of copper wire on the main jet), would it run without the choke on. All is good. Many thanks.
I didn't reassemble it correctly. The choke handle was working backwards. Thanks!
Does anyone know the the mixture jet turns out should be? Didn’t count mine
Do 1.5 turns and you'll be good.
Why not show how to replace cover and remove covers. This is a hard cover to remove and replace thanks
I show it a little more in this video ruclips.net/video/iLXwYnItPGA/видео.html
30 bucks for a needle and seat!!! I bought a brand new Mikuni carb for it on Amazon for $15.00!!!
You bought a cheap Chinese clone of a Mikuni, not a Mikuni carb. Most work good enough to run the engine but with the cheap pot metal they rot out in no time. If your unlucky enough to get one mixed to lean, your engine will seize; that's always fun.
@@sixtyfiveford Yes a clone but appears to be very well made. Fired right up and ran perfectly... guess I may have gotten lucky!!!
Great Video! I had just completed the rebuild on my own (without watching first) but looked this up to double check before I reinstalled the carb into the snowblower. Great info on that rubber needle seat and how to remove it. I found it a few places for about $13 plus shipping but thanks to your explanation, I tested it by blowing. It sealed great, just like you demonstrated, so I'll leave the original in there this time around.
I went to test it out but it wasn't getting fuel. I had a clear in-line filter in it with all new fuel line. Still no fuel in the filter or to the carb. I figured out that I had made the fuel line too long. In normal operating position, the line and filter sat higher than the exit port on the tank. Stupid me, it's gravity fed. I shortened up the line so it was more of a straight shot to the carb and presto, it worked great! Starts on one pull. WooHoo! Thanks for the great, easy to understand video. My small engine shop wanted $80 plus parts to do a fall tune-up. All this cost me was an hour of my time and some cleaner.
TIP: When I rebuild small engines, I have found that using a bristle from a nylon paint brush works great for clearing small jets. On larger jets, I cut a bristle from a stiff nylon broom. The nylon comes in different sizes, is flexible, doesn't kink under pressure, and slides right through the ports without damaging anything.
+Arctic Minibike - just wondering where you got your rubber needle seat kit for $13.00. Thanks,Tim
+Tim Aldrich Mine sealed just fine after cleaning so I didn't replace it. Search for part number 81-5820. It's called a Seal Kit. Mowpart.com has it for just over $10 plus about $8 shipping. Amazon has it for about $12 plus shipping but it's shipped and sold by a third party seller. I'd try Mowpart first. They look like a legitimate brick-n-mortar business near Dallas, Texas. It's a subsidiary of "Four Brothers Ford Tractor" and has a BBB A+ rating. If you buy the part, let us know how it works out.
+Arctic Minibike Thanks for the reply, will try it out in the future. Just waiting now for our first lake effect snow event. All ready for it!
Arctic Minibike
Thanks for sharing info for this, very professionally explained.
Again-thanks. I'm in Utah and we have a local listing similar to craigslist call KSL.com. I'll check them first.
Thank you so much for the information. I do have a question. You mentioned the little spring. Mine has one, and I didn't take note how it was positioned when I took it apart. Can you explain to me how to put it back on?
Love those CCR's oh great video too
They have to be one of the best built single stage machines.
You sir are the man! Took off the carb and went over it again really concentrating on the idle circuit. I didn't really notice anything visible. I used the float pin spring to clean the tiny idle jet orifice as my copper wire was too big. It now runs like a champ. Just in time for the storm we are supposed to get here in NW New Jersey. Thanks for the video and info. I can rebuild this thing blindfolded now.
What and where did you get the rebuild kit for that particular carb. I have the exact same one and need a float and needle. Thanks and I really enjoyed this video.
Cool
finally found that idle jet passage, it was under the plastic block? Cleaned it out and now works fine! Thank you!
That's always a great feeling.
Thank you for posting this. I can't for the life of me get that metal float sleeve out of the housing. Do you have any other suggestions?
Exact same carb I have on my ccr 2000. Thanks
It's the perfect time to play with snowblowers. Way better than when it's cold out.
totally cleaned and replaced needle and seat....the primer is not oem...could that be the issue ?Thanks for your videos help and support....and You look like me when i was younger...hahahahaha.....
The Primer wouldn't cause leaking. Pushing the primer forces air into the bowl of the carb. The fuel is displaced and forced up the emulsion tube into the center of the carb. Multiple primes will cause a drip or so of gas to come out the mouth of the carb(this is normal). But it wouldn't cause continuous leaking. You must be a good lookin guy then.
Wow, your videos are genius. My father always talks about these old timers from back in the day that could do and fix anything. Someday, I'll be telling my kids about the guy that could do anything, and he was on RUclips. Great videos!!!!
Wow, thanks for the flattering comment. -Moe.
I was running hard today, cleaning the pond off. I ran out of gas, filled it up but I couldn't get it started. Did I flood it?
I don't think I've had this problem before. Only have run about a gallon through it since I cleaned the carb?
thanks
George Deligiannis More than likely the water at the bottom of the fuel froze in the line/ bowl of the carb. Thaw it out, drain the bowl and you should be good to go.
sixtyfiveford I tried it first without opening the bowl and it started after letting it sit for 24 hours.
Great, glad you're up and going again.
I followed video cleaned well....after I turn it off thats when the gas fills up air intake...Then it won't start obviously....I was thinkin the primer is holding fuel?....and your also modest as me as well!!!I have had it off and apart 3 times 1 or 2 more won't matter!
Do the mouth pressure test. I always do this before assembly.
With carb off and bowl off:
Hold carb upside down and blow as hard as you can in through the fuel inlet.The weight of the float by itself(do not touch it) should 100% seal. If you hear even the tiniest air leak, gas will leak past. Lift the float and blow (air should pass) then drop it, it should again seal 100%.